Hey Phil, I really like your videos. I like that we can see each detail actually being done, and even some of the mess up and how to overcome them. I'm fixing to skirt my house and using your videos to "follow along with". I have a few questions. Some background... I live in Oklahoma where the wind can get pretty harsh due to the lack of natural protection. I had vinyl skirting and it got blown away several times then damaged to no repair. So, I bought metal with Z trim, J-channel, and corners. This is something I have put off for over a year now, mainly due to my lack of confidence in tackling this, because I want to do it the best I can, but time and budget is often a problem. I consider myself handy, but work at a turtle's pace (I think it is hereditary because my Dad is the same way). My questions 1. Is there a decent way to "back" the J-channel. I considered and half-way pulled the trigger on just putting some treated 2x4s on the ground with rebar to stake it down, but have decided against having wood on the ground (even though its treat). Any suggestions? 2. Do you use lap screws to tie the metal together? I bought lap screws to do so and initially thought it would help the integrity of the structure, but at the same time don't know if that would be entirely worth it or true. 3. Also, I have soil/grass (no gravel), is it ill-advised to proceed and not have gravel? 4. Lastly, what about ventilation? I want to vent to help control moisture levels, because when they set our house, the grade and slope seems to not shed water well on periods of long rain or hard rain and the north end of my house collects water (which I'm trying to figure out a solution as well). Thank you for your help!
First all will be well. Second I live on top of a mountain and have 12 mobile homes with metal skirting . None have blown out . Add to the hundreds I have installed for others . If you wish you can add nails into the bottom. Third it cannot hurt to use lap screws though as I have said here in nw Arkansas I have had no problems. Fourth there is a separate video regards needing to add vents . I believe all your questions will be answered there. Finally regards water running under your house. If you put plastic under there the water will tend to stay until it evaporates on to of the plastic. Although think sealing your underpinning so animals don't drag it down or cold weather get to your floors. Perhaps a gradual berm or rise running diagonally to one corner or the other on the uphill side will run most water away. The water running under your house will cause it to settle an d become out of level. Either way I hope this helps . And I wish you and yours all the best
@@StraightArrowRepair Thank you so much to take the time to reply. That honestly helps me feel more confidence about it. I’ve used your videos to guide me through the how to do everything, (I got about 1/3 of it done yesterday) with the guidance of your videos). They really have been great and useful! Hope you have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Hi there, what do I use on the J-channel if my home is on a concrete slab? Do I use nails or screws and what size? Wonderful videos btw, so helpful, great detailed instructions and informative, Thank you so much for your help!!!
So happy to help . What I have done is use liquid nails if the surface is clean . Also have used short what is called tapcon screws which requires drilling with a specific bit. Hope that helps you on your journey.
Love all your helpful videos!! What did you put on the top of the panels, where it meets the mobile home? Is that metal as well? Any videos about how to install whatever that part is?
I like to do that if I can do water will tend not to go under the edge . Still you could locate it anywhere. It can have water under the material and cause very minimal damage .
Hello! My husband is working on our tin and underpinning and is having a hard time figuring out how to do the vents. The vents we’ve found are too big for the ridges on the tin to fit in between them and he isn’t sure how to cut the tin for the vents. Help!
I do siding was curious how this went i guy that worked for me went out on hus own and started doing work for a couple parks doing skirting and sheds he said the guys before him was no good
They metal roofing screws from the supply company that produces the metal skirting slash metal building siding. And I use the same color as the skirting . The length is 1 and a 1/2 metal to wood. Hope that helps.
I use a metal building supplier in my area. You can do the same in your area. Price to keep going up. I believe it is now over 3 dollars per lineal foot. Which is 3 feet across. Hope that helps.
It has no official name. It is my custom design. The metal building supplier will have it made for you. The dimensions are 2 inches down 1 inch out 3 inches down color on outside. Usually in 10 foot lengths.
Of course it depends on the circumstances. Still you could do the job in two days. I have been doing it for awhile so my time it would be about 7 hours by myself.
@@jerrypruitt7432 we have in this area 4 90 mph wind episodes every 3 years. 60 mph per hour winds coming out of Oklahoma often . Just had a tornado in the area. There no complaints about the skirting blowing out. People have had me replace panels where they ran into it with lawnmowers. It dented it. It does not need bracing. The top has a z channel to cover 1 1/2 down 1 out then 3 down color on outside. Fastened with screws.
Wow, I’ve had a difficult time finding it here in Texas. Maybe I’m looking in the wrong places. Do you recommend any supply house in particular? Thank so much for everything?
Thank you for sharing this great educational video. I have an important question to ask you. I have a mobile home I’m selling to an FHA buyer and my skirting looks exactly like yours But the appraiser said ( based on his interpretation & 8 hour mobile home education course) it’s defective based on HUD guidelines and told me I need to install a solid perimeter that the skirting attaches to and it makes no sense. Here’s what FHA HUD states in their guideline. “For existing homes, FHA says “the entire surface area of the skirting must be permanently attached to backing made of concrete, masonry, treated wood or a product with similar strength and durability”. So, the skirting may be brick, concrete, vinyl, or other acceptable material.” - I ask what the heck does the word entire perimeter mean? Top portion? All of it?
All of the surface of skirting. Which a lot of people use concrete block for skirting on the premise it gives permanence to the home changing it from chattel which is movable like a portable building to real estate like a home . The theory is not true and this why when a mover gets ready to move it that block wall all the way around gets knocked down and moved out of the way in less than an hour say 45 minutes . I have seen it with my own eyes time and time again . They quite often call me to disconnect utilities and move porches and out buildings ect ect ect. So does my experience help you . Perhaps you are dealing with basically government employees and they can be unreasonable if they want to . So discuss with them about the section that says . Excuse while I look at the words.
Or a product with with similar strength or durability . These skirting jobs I have been involved with have been in 60 miles per hour winds . Been run into by lawnmowers and so on . I wish you well .
Most I see are tissue paper thin vinyl which is gone in 5 years. Im currently replacing mine with this corrugated metal with a thicker galvanized metal 1” U track at the base
It DEFINITELY LOOKS GREAT, much better than the hokey vinyl crap I inherited around my home, I had actually thought about using that same material but I'm mixed about how it actual looks with the design running opposite of the siding, the spikes driven down into the gravel looks iffie even though they are long, my problem is I have those tunnel diggers so I really need to go deeper into the ground, Yours definately looks good, thanks for posting, gives me a few ideas @@StraightArrowRepair
Don't understand WHY he didn't put any studs like every 24" on the framing? A good wind Will blow this off. Seems like he might be a Shade tree handyman? Sorry Dude. Only being Honest. Why not do it Right the 1st time? Needless to say. U am Not very impressed??
Been doing this type of skirting for over 25 years. Not once have they been blown out by wind. We are getting up to and beyond 40 mph winds every year. You can do it your way and I will keep shade treeing it I like it in the shade or being thrown shade.
Thank God for this . I'm having this done and nobody knows how what does know how wants a fortune
Make it happen.
Nice work, I enjoyed it
Thanx
Hey Phil,
I really like your videos. I like that we can see each detail actually being done, and even some of the mess up and how to overcome them. I'm fixing to skirt my house and using your videos to "follow along with". I have a few questions.
Some background... I live in Oklahoma where the wind can get pretty harsh due to the lack of natural protection. I had vinyl skirting and it got blown away several times then damaged to no repair. So, I bought metal with Z trim, J-channel, and corners. This is something I have put off for over a year now, mainly due to my lack of confidence in tackling this, because I want to do it the best I can, but time and budget is often a problem. I consider myself handy, but work at a turtle's pace (I think it is hereditary because my Dad is the same way).
My questions
1. Is there a decent way to "back" the J-channel. I considered and half-way pulled the trigger on just putting some treated 2x4s on the ground with rebar to stake it down, but have decided against having wood on the ground (even though its treat). Any suggestions?
2. Do you use lap screws to tie the metal together? I bought lap screws to do so and initially thought it would help the integrity of the structure, but at the same time don't know if that would be entirely worth it or true.
3. Also, I have soil/grass (no gravel), is it ill-advised to proceed and not have gravel?
4. Lastly, what about ventilation? I want to vent to help control moisture levels, because when they set our house, the grade and slope seems to not shed water well on periods of long rain or hard rain and the north end of my house collects water (which I'm trying to figure out a solution as well).
Thank you for your help!
First all will be well. Second I live on top of a mountain and have 12 mobile homes with metal skirting . None have blown out . Add to the hundreds I have installed for others . If you wish you can add nails into the bottom. Third it cannot hurt to use lap screws though as I have said here in nw Arkansas I have had no problems. Fourth there is a separate video regards needing to add vents . I believe all your questions will be answered there. Finally regards water running under your house. If you put plastic under there the water will tend to stay until it evaporates on to of the plastic. Although think sealing your underpinning so animals don't drag it down or cold weather get to your floors. Perhaps a gradual berm or rise running diagonally to one corner or the other on the uphill side will run most water away. The water running under your house will cause it to settle an d become out of level. Either way I hope this helps . And I wish you and yours all the best
@@StraightArrowRepair
Thank you so much to take the time to reply. That honestly helps me feel more confidence about it. I’ve used your videos to guide me through the how to do everything, (I got about 1/3 of it done yesterday) with the guidance of your videos). They really have been great and useful! Hope you have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Hi there, what do I use on the J-channel if my home is on a concrete slab? Do I use nails or screws and what size? Wonderful videos btw, so helpful, great detailed instructions and informative, Thank you so much for your help!!!
So happy to help . What I have done is use liquid nails if the surface is clean . Also have used short what is called tapcon screws which requires drilling with a specific bit. Hope that helps you on your journey.
What size would you recommend on the tapcon screws? Thanks again!
@@cecilianoland1274 very short 1.5 inches or 1 inch.
Thank you for the video. Do you have a video that illustrates the top channel? Is it another J channel or different? Thanks.
It will be a z shaped metal . When ordering it is 2 inches down 1 inch out then 3 inches down color on the outside.
Love all your helpful videos!! What did you put on the top of the panels, where it meets the mobile home? Is that metal as well? Any videos about how to install whatever that part is?
Yes there are videos on the trim it is a top front . Dimensions are 2 down 1 out 3 down with them at the bottom color on the outside . Hope that helps
@@StraightArrowRepair would you suggest caulking above the top front trim? Or the screws that go into the top front and the mobile home paneling?
@@NEssaZaicaulking isn’t going to do anything at this location.
Like the black metal Skirting. Is that about the same price as vinyl skirting that I wish I didn’t buy.
Yes sometimes cheaper depending on who you buy from.
What was the name of the metal skirting you used. Where could I buy this skirting at? Thank you. Great tutorial
I use metal building roofing /siding 29 gauge from metal building supply. Hope that helps.
Where do you get the metal track for skirting I framed mine in wood and was told I got to use metal track Where you get at
Called a j-channel for metal building metal panels. Still you should be able to purchase j- channel lots of other places.
What about putting vents in?? How do recommend doing that?? I'm fixing to do mine at my vacation house.
By the by I have a video just about vents. Wish you well on your project.
Hey Phil. I looks like at the end of the video that you had the top front tucked up under the siding. Is that correct? It's kind of hard to see.
I like to do that if I can do water will tend not to go under the edge . Still you could locate it anywhere. It can have water under the material and cause very minimal damage .
Hello! My husband is working on our tin and underpinning and is having a hard time figuring out how to do the vents. The vents we’ve found are too big for the ridges on the tin to fit in between them and he isn’t sure how to cut the tin for the vents. Help!
You will have to install j-channel around the hole for the vent. Or you could use soffit vents.
@@StraightArrowRepair how do you recommend cutting on the ribs for the vent? The vents we’ve found are too big to fit in between the ribs.
I do siding was curious how this went i guy that worked for me went out on hus own and started doing work for a couple parks doing skirting and sheds he said the guys before him was no good
Still there. Customer is still happy. I do a wide range of things. I don't see why you couldn't specialize though.
Would it not be easier & less work to run the skirting the long length?
It will lose strength, it will be much more difficult to cut length wise than across.. ..
do you have a suggestion on where to buy this material? Looking for the Metal panel and the bottom channel
Metal building supply is where I go for both . Hope that helps.
I just did mine like that but I wooden framed mine and I tucked my metal roof under the siding how and where are the vents
There is a whole video on that question. All the besy
What type of colored screws did you use? What length? Thank you.
They metal roofing screws from the supply company that produces the metal skirting slash metal building siding. And I use the same color as the skirting . The length is 1 and a 1/2 metal to wood. Hope that helps.
@@StraightArrowRepair thank you so much for taking the time to reply. That will help a lot!
I own a double wide 24 x 53 how much would the material and installation cost? On average
It is related to the heights on the sides. Should be around 1700 to 2000
hi there where do you buy the metal skirt ? and how much each sheet cost? thank you
I use a metal building supplier in my area. You can do the same in your area. Price to keep going up. I believe it is now over 3 dollars per lineal foot. Which is 3 feet across. Hope that helps.
I was told by a metal Company that j channel on the ground would hold water. Any input would help
I have never seen a problem most of the time it fills with grass clippings.Still no problem.
what is the material called that you use for the top front pieces?
It has no official name. It is my custom design. The metal building supplier will have it made for you. The dimensions are 2 inches down 1 inch out 3 inches down color on outside. Usually in 10 foot lengths.
@@StraightArrowRepair thank ya
Glad to help
how much is that skirt and where did you get it from ? thanks
The price will be up to your metal building supply prices . I wish you well on your project.
How many hours does it take one person to do that metal skirting like that?
Of course it depends on the circumstances. Still you could do the job in two days. I have been doing it for awhile so my time it would be about 7 hours by myself.
Thanks a lot for the great video and encouraging instructions
How did you cover top?
Had the company that makes the metal make those they are 1 1/2 down 1 inch out 3 inches down hemmed on the bottom color on the outside
Wind will blow that out. Need bracing. Also what goes on top
@@jerrypruitt7432 we have in this area 4 90 mph wind episodes every 3 years. 60 mph per hour winds coming out of Oklahoma often . Just had a tornado in the area. There no complaints about the skirting blowing out. People have had me replace panels where they ran into it with lawnmowers. It dented it. It does not need bracing. The top has a z channel to cover 1 1/2 down 1 out then 3 down color on outside. Fastened with screws.
Where can I purchase the black metal skirting?
Believe it or not. It is a fairly common color at metal building supply houses.
Wow, I’ve had a difficult time finding it here in Texas. Maybe I’m looking in the wrong places. Do you recommend any supply house in particular? Thank so much for everything?
Where to get the black skirting??
Metal building supply. It has been available for many years.
Why didn't you finish the process with installing the top overtrim?
It was installed
@Straight Arrow Repair I seen that it was, but you skipped that process in the video.
@@bradwhite9065That's what I was wondering? I thought I miss something.
Thank you for sharing this great educational video. I have an important question to ask you. I have a mobile home I’m selling to an FHA buyer and my skirting looks exactly like yours But the appraiser said ( based on his interpretation & 8 hour mobile home education course) it’s defective based on HUD guidelines and told me I need to install a solid perimeter that the skirting attaches to and it makes no sense. Here’s what FHA HUD states in their guideline. “For existing homes, FHA says “the entire surface area of the skirting must be permanently attached to backing made of concrete, masonry, treated wood or a product with similar strength and durability”. So, the skirting may be brick, concrete, vinyl, or other acceptable material.” - I ask what the heck does the word entire perimeter mean? Top portion? All of it?
All of the surface of skirting. Which a lot of people use concrete block for skirting on the premise it gives permanence to the home changing it from chattel which is movable like a portable building to real estate like a home . The theory is not true and this why when a mover gets ready to move it that block wall all the way around gets knocked down and moved out of the way in less than an hour say 45 minutes . I have seen it with my own eyes time and time again . They quite often call me to disconnect utilities and move porches and out buildings ect ect ect. So does my experience help you . Perhaps you are dealing with basically government employees and they can be unreasonable if they want to . So discuss with them about the section that says . Excuse while I look at the words.
Or a product with with similar strength or durability . These skirting jobs I have been involved with have been in 60 miles per hour winds . Been run into by lawnmowers and so on . I wish you well .
Most I see are tissue paper thin vinyl which is gone in 5 years. Im currently replacing mine with this corrugated metal with a thicker galvanized metal 1” U track at the base
What about installing the J channel?
I have videos that cover how to cut and install j channel hope that helps
@@StraightArrowRepair I meant the top rail , Thanks
Need something MORE substantial than that
Been there three years now
It DEFINITELY LOOKS GREAT, much better than the hokey vinyl crap I inherited around my home, I had actually thought about using that same material but I'm mixed about how it actual looks with the design running opposite of the siding, the spikes driven down into the gravel looks iffie even though they are long, my problem is I have those tunnel diggers so I really need to go deeper into the ground, Yours definately looks good, thanks for posting, gives me a few ideas @@StraightArrowRepair
Yikes!
First black skirting job for me although it went well with black shutters on the house
Don't understand WHY he didn't put any studs like every 24" on the framing? A good wind Will blow this off. Seems like he might be a Shade tree handyman? Sorry Dude. Only being Honest. Why not do it Right the 1st time? Needless to say. U am Not very impressed??
Been doing this type of skirting for over 25 years. Not once have they been blown out by wind. We are getting up to and beyond 40 mph winds every year. You can do it your way and I will keep shade treeing it I like it in the shade or being thrown shade.