Holy crap thanks for this video I didn’t think it would take ten minutes to get oil out of the pushrods! Wow I would have thought it would have taken like 30 seconds! Wow
You and me both! I was getting concerned after a bit. I did the high volume pump on another 4.0 a few years ago and it took maybe 45 seconds. Downside is the high volume pump is taller so I had to modify & massage the oil pan a little bit.
Great video. I’m gonna prime mine after a RMS. The vehicle sat for over a month without oil in it and I also put the main bearing in dry so I definitely need to prime. I didn’t like putting it in dry but working in the dirt makes it extremely easy to toast your engine with grit. I’ll probably rent a drill from work and do 20 minutes since I’ll have the valve cover on.
Along with assembly oiling packing the pump and pickup with grease or Vaseline works for me this just takes a few minutes and is well worth the time and the oil that one starts a motor with is or should not be what one is going to drive with
Does this pump up the lifters? I primed mine and then ended up changing out the rockers but 3 of the lifters are solid now. Hoping I can still torque my rockers down.
@@tmmyjay it primes the system, for lifters I typically soak them for 24 hours in oil. Im traveling for work currently but if you’re only changing rockers this shouldn’t make a difference as you’re only working the top of the engine anyway. Figure when you shut your engine down you do have bleed down to an extent with the oil, the lifters will still hold some oil so you can put your new rockers on torque to 19lb/ft if I recall and should be good once you fire the engine back up, you might have a slight chatter for a second or two but really it’s not that critical unless you’re replacing lifters as well. Verify that torque spec i don’t have the manual with me. But again removing a rocker putting a new one the push rods will depress the lifter plunger and you’ll loose some pressure within that lifter but it’s not going to screw anything up the 4.0 is very resilient. And like I said once you fire it up it will build that pressure back up quick. But if you’re like me and want it pretty you could prime the system again to ensure it’s legit or… pull the plugs and crank the engine or with the starter a few times “pull the fuel pump fuse” or turn it over with a socket from the crank.
pre oil of any new engine build before cranking with a starter is a must as well as pre oil for engines that have set for over a few weeks. rig up an accusump or an 2 -3 gallon pressure tank with oil in the tank upside down. make sure to use an inline filter screen to keep the trash out. and leave the pan drain plug out with a good clean catch pan under. inject the oil at 50-75 psi into the oil pressure port. also a pro tip is to use Vaseline packed in to the oil pump gears or pre oil the pump with thick 30 wt oil before bolting up air pockets in the oil pickup feed can make for the long prime time.
Once it primed it was good. I should have known better and packed it with Vaseline to build suction but I didn’t want to pull it apart. Pump works great though, engine fires up with great pressure right away.
@@wrenchops719 That was my experience with used engines, never had it happen with a rebuilt . Used to run a salvage and service yard so I've done 100s of them.
@mountainmonk5874 the 4.0 has been acting up. Later this summer I’ll probably do a full rebuild on it. I think I have a cam lope that’s flat, new rockers, push rods and lifters it’s make a decent valve train noise which is rpm consistent. I’m in Louisiana for the next few months with work which is killing my upload consistency.
@mountainmonk5874 oil pressure is spot on even on a cold start, goes to 55psi then to 40psi when hot. I sent my endoscope down the head to the cam and the intake side on #3 piston is in bad shape. It’s scored pretty bad. I took a gamble on the used engine so it’s no surprise to me.
I could barely hear you with my volume up , the time it took for you to get the oil overflowing through those push rods, I'm afraid to go take a leak now.
It looks like a ton of work to get to where you are in this video. And I learned a great lesson watching this. I’m at 261k and don’t know if this will be me someday. But I’ll have a better idea of how to! My current pressure is well over 40-50 while driving but in the summer it sits just a hair over 20 at idle. Goes right back up with throttle. Not sure if I just Keep watching or what. Also wondering if I should start that rotella oil folks rave about. Currently going with decent 10-W30 and a wiz filter every 3k. Any thoughts on any of that appreciated. Thanks
I think you’ll be just fine, eventually parts where out however with quality oil and maintenance schedule like you have you should be able to hit 300k at least. You might have a weak oil pump if it’s the original with 261k I sit about 35psi at a hot idle and fluctuates to 60 under a load. Rotella, amsoil, Castrol, all good oils and I personally use them all with a mobile one extended guard filter. Thank you for the view and comment!
They should be all consistent when filling, figure the length the oil travel within the galleys so the timing might not be exact. Other factor is this engine was used so could have some sludge within the galleys causing a slower oil delivery. It’s not on video but I primer this engine again 24hrs later to ensure the oil was properly being distributed in a quick manner which it was, within no less than two seconds all the rockers were were full and great pressure.
John, the priming tool I use is not Jeep 4.0 specific. It’s a universal type, the end has a flat nub like a large screw driver. I’m TDY for another week but I’ll make a video and provide a link of where I got mine. It’s generic & I think I got it from Jegs.
@@wrenchops719 Awesome! Thanks for the info. No need to make another video but I won't stop you. Thanks again....great video by the way. Straightforward no fluff.
Bonjour. J'ai suivi avec beaucoup d'intérêts cette vidéo. Mais, il ya plus facile à faire. C'est de remplir la pompe par l'orifice du distributeur avant de faire tourner la pompe.
Vous avez raison. Lui, l'anglais, il perds son temps avec un tuyeau plein d'air. Nous, francophone et solidaire, nos tuyeaux ne sont pas plein d'air. 🤣
Can’t say it’s critical to do, lots of online forum theory’s saying you must & others saying just send it. For my own sanity and knowing everything is 100% legit I verify the oiling system is operational and pumping accordingly by doing a prime.
@@wrenchops719 im far from a pro so correct me if im wrong, cant i just pull the coil plug and turn her for a hot minute without the engine actually starting to have the same effect? Just changing the oil pump and rear main seal. Not a fresh rebuild.
You’ll be fine doing that there is enough existing oil on the bearings so turning the engine over won’t hurt anything. Should build pressure fairly quick, just watch the gauge. Thank you for the view & comment!
Holy crap thanks for this video I didn’t think it would take ten minutes to get oil out of the pushrods! Wow I would have thought it would have taken like 30 seconds! Wow
You and me both! I was getting concerned after a bit. I did the high volume pump on another 4.0 a few years ago and it took maybe 45 seconds. Downside is the high volume pump is taller so I had to modify & massage the oil pan a little bit.
Same here... I would've thought something was wrong after 6-7 minutes
Great video. I’m gonna prime mine after a RMS. The vehicle sat for over a month without oil in it and I also put the main bearing in dry so I definitely need to prime. I didn’t like putting it in dry but working in the dirt makes it extremely easy to toast your engine with grit. I’ll probably rent a drill from work and do 20 minutes since I’ll have the valve cover on.
Great idea for sure! Thank you for the view & comment!
Along with assembly oiling packing the pump and pickup with grease or Vaseline works for me this just takes a few minutes and is well worth the time
and the oil that one starts a motor with is or should not be what one is going to drive with
I agree, typically have done that in the past on other engines, decided just to skip it on this one. Thanks for the view and comment!
Does this pump up the lifters? I primed mine and then ended up changing out the rockers but 3 of the lifters are solid now. Hoping I can still torque my rockers down.
@@tmmyjay it primes the system, for lifters I typically soak them for 24 hours in oil. Im traveling for work currently but if you’re only changing rockers this shouldn’t make a difference as you’re only working the top of the engine anyway. Figure when you shut your engine down you do have bleed down to an extent with the oil, the lifters will still hold some oil so you can put your new rockers on torque to 19lb/ft if I recall and should be good once you fire the engine back up, you might have a slight chatter for a second or two but really it’s not that critical unless you’re replacing lifters as well. Verify that torque spec i don’t have the manual with me. But again removing a rocker putting a new one the push rods will depress the lifter plunger and you’ll loose some pressure within that lifter but it’s not going to screw anything up the 4.0 is very resilient. And like I said once you fire it up it will build that pressure back up quick. But if you’re like me and want it pretty you could prime the system again to ensure it’s legit or… pull the plugs and crank the engine or with the starter a few times “pull the fuel pump fuse” or turn it over with a socket from the crank.
@@wrenchops719 Thanks man! Great info!
@tmmyjay anytime, appreciate the view and comment! Lemme know if you have questions or run into issues.
Next time try putting Vaseline in the oil pump to prime it.The vaseline will melt when it gets hot and flow out into the oil.👍👍
I have on SBF and SBC & it works great, didn’t feel like taking the pump cover off to pack it n this one. Thanks for the view & comment!
pre oil of any new engine build before cranking with a starter is a must as well as pre oil for engines that have set for over a few weeks.
rig up an accusump or an 2 -3 gallon pressure tank with oil in the tank upside down.
make sure to use an inline filter screen to keep the trash out.
and leave the pan drain plug out with a good clean catch pan under.
inject the oil at 50-75 psi into the oil pressure port.
also a pro tip is to use Vaseline packed in to the oil pump gears or pre oil the pump with thick 30 wt oil before bolting up
air pockets in the oil pickup feed can make for the long prime time.
I've never had one take this long without problems.
Once it primed it was good. I should have known better and packed it with Vaseline to build suction but I didn’t want to pull it apart. Pump works great though, engine fires up with great pressure right away.
@@wrenchops719 That was my experience with used engines, never had it happen with a rebuilt . Used to run a salvage and service yard so I've done 100s of them.
@mountainmonk5874 the 4.0 has been acting up. Later this summer I’ll probably do a full rebuild on it. I think I have a cam lope that’s flat, new rockers, push rods and lifters it’s make a decent valve train noise which is rpm consistent. I’m in Louisiana for the next few months with work which is killing my upload consistency.
@@wrenchops719 How is the oil pressure? If it's not good I'd say park it until you resolve it.
@mountainmonk5874 oil pressure is spot on even on a cold start, goes to 55psi then to 40psi when hot. I sent my endoscope down the head to the cam and the intake side on #3 piston is in bad shape. It’s scored pretty bad. I took a gamble on the used engine so it’s no surprise to me.
I could barely hear you with my volume up , the time it took for you to get the oil overflowing through those push rods, I'm afraid to go take a leak now.
Ha sorry about that! Still working off my phone to crate videos, I’ll have a new recording system shortly for better content creation and editing.
It looks like a ton of work to get to where you are in this video. And I learned a great lesson watching this. I’m at 261k and don’t know if this will be me someday. But I’ll have a better idea of how to! My current pressure is well over 40-50 while driving but in the summer it sits just a hair over 20 at idle. Goes right back up with throttle. Not sure if I just
Keep watching or what. Also wondering if I should start that rotella oil folks rave about. Currently going with decent 10-W30 and a wiz filter every 3k. Any thoughts on any of that appreciated. Thanks
I think you’ll be just fine, eventually parts where out however with quality oil and maintenance schedule like you have you should be able to hit 300k at least. You might have a weak oil pump if it’s the original with 261k I sit about 35psi at a hot idle and fluctuates to 60 under a load. Rotella, amsoil, Castrol, all good oils and I personally use them all with a mobile one extended guard filter. Thank you for the view and comment!
@@wrenchops719 awesome advice! Thank you for the reply!
How come they didn't all fill up?
They did eventually. I should have packed the pump first with petroleum grease/jelly to speed up the priming process.
@@wrenchops719 Thanks. It Looks like the one in the middle didn't fill up as high as the others. Is that normal?
They should be all consistent when filling, figure the length the oil travel within the galleys so the timing might not be exact. Other factor is this engine was used so could have some sludge within the galleys causing a slower oil delivery. It’s not on video but I primer this engine again 24hrs later to ensure the oil was properly being distributed in a quick manner which it was, within no less than two seconds all the rockers were were full and great pressure.
Where did you get the 4.0 specific priming tool? I need t do this very same thing.
John, the priming tool I use is not Jeep 4.0 specific. It’s a universal type, the end has a flat nub like a large screw driver. I’m TDY for another week but I’ll make a video and provide a link of where I got mine. It’s generic & I think I got it from Jegs.
@@wrenchops719 Awesome! Thanks for the info. No need to make another video but I won't stop you. Thanks again....great video by the way. Straightforward no fluff.
No worries my friend. My camera angles my not be fancy or my intros. Try to keep it basic and to the point. Thank you the comments!
Amigo una pregunta por qué primero giras a izq y después a derecha.
I thought you were supposed to go counter clock wise.
Bonjour. J'ai suivi avec beaucoup d'intérêts cette vidéo. Mais, il ya plus facile à faire. C'est de remplir la pompe par l'orifice du distributeur avant de faire tourner la pompe.
Vous avez raison. Lui, l'anglais, il perds son temps avec un tuyeau plein d'air. Nous, francophone et solidaire, nos tuyeaux ne sont pas plein d'air. 🤣
I never did that
Can’t say it’s critical to do, lots of online forum theory’s saying you must & others saying just send it. For my own sanity and knowing everything is 100% legit I verify the oiling system is operational and pumping accordingly by doing a prime.
@@wrenchops719 im far from a pro so correct me if im wrong, cant i just pull the coil plug and turn her for a hot minute without the engine actually starting to have the same effect? Just changing the oil pump and rear main seal. Not a fresh rebuild.
You’ll be fine doing that there is enough existing oil on the bearings so turning the engine over won’t hurt anything. Should build pressure fairly quick, just watch the gauge. Thank you for the view & comment!