So one thing I’ve been doing, is when I hollow. I hollow out where there would be joints put together and for solid prints like this one I would put a few at the bottom. Then what I would do is after the wash, dry and cure portion. I would go to like a Home Depot, Lowe’s, Michael’s, dollar store etc and buy a bag of sand. Scoop some into a gallon ziploc bag, cut a corner of it with some scissors. And let it pour into the model completely. Once it’s completely full where I absolutely can’t add anymore sand I would use the plastic Wood-X and cover the holes. Or cure resin on the top of the holes as well to seal it. And sand down till the holes are covered and smoothed. Would do a bit more super glue, and sometimes I would add Vallejo’s plastic putty to help hold the weight in arms and legs etc. But Haven’t had an issue since and plus it gives the models a bit more weight so it’s less likely to tip and fall. Plus the sand essentially fills those empty voids so that no air pressure is present. I have a friend that does this as well but he only does it in the bases of the models so that it would be supported heavily on the bottom except the whole model. Plus it would be a cool experiment video you could do on this subject and see how it works for you. But I do hope it helps and maybe it can help others.
what if i did add holes.. giant ones... multiple.. and I washed it firmly.. and dried it with a hair dryer before hardening.. and it still exploded? i got myself with half a kilo of destroyed terrain. it happened after more than 24 hours. i managed to cure and paint them already. and they cracked in 2-4 pieces. like the interior of the print expanded.
Well... what helped is 1) lesen down the infill.. down to 12-15% max. 2) over expose the shit out of my print in curing. like curing for 1 hour. 3) I print in transparent only now, o when curing I can cure even trapped pockets of resin somewhere in the print where they shouldn't be.
Just settings I tweak over time. Some of it is from the manufacturer of the resin. Most resin makers will give you recommended settings for your printer and resin.
Hello meadmade, I heard that if you don’t shake your resin before use it will cause prints to explode because some parts of the model will not cure is that true or the only reason we shake resin is because of the print quality?
It’s not if you leave it solid. It’s if you hollow it and not put a hole for ventilation and to clean out all of the uncured resin in the hollowed part.
Thanx alooot yr really helpful ill surely subscribe to yr patreon .. but u know i have base with 3 holes with wall thick 0.12 its also cracked still dont know how
Thanks glad it helped. That’s strange we’re you able to wash it really good and cure the inside as well? That could cause it too or possibly you wall thickness is too thin. I typically print a .2mm thickness
Wall thickness of 0.12 what…Inches, Millimeters, Centimeters? Most measurements in 3D printing are given in mm, so if that’s 0.12mm those are VERY thin walls and I would expect them to break very easily. Around 2mm for smaller prints and 3mm or more for larger prints is typical from what I’ve seen.
So one thing I’ve been doing, is when I hollow. I hollow out where there would be joints put together and for solid prints like this one I would put a few at the bottom. Then what I would do is after the wash, dry and cure portion. I would go to like a Home Depot, Lowe’s, Michael’s, dollar store etc and buy a bag of sand. Scoop some into a gallon ziploc bag, cut a corner of it with some scissors. And let it pour into the model completely. Once it’s completely full where I absolutely can’t add anymore sand I would use the plastic Wood-X and cover the holes. Or cure resin on the top of the holes as well to seal it. And sand down till the holes are covered and smoothed. Would do a bit more super glue, and sometimes I would add Vallejo’s plastic putty to help hold the weight in arms and legs etc. But Haven’t had an issue since and plus it gives the models a bit more weight so it’s less likely to tip and fall. Plus the sand essentially fills those empty voids so that no air pressure is present. I have a friend that does this as well but he only does it in the bases of the models so that it would be supported heavily on the bottom except the whole model.
Plus it would be a cool experiment video you could do on this subject and see how it works for you. But I do hope it helps and maybe it can help others.
You can prevent chipping if you put your drill in reverse (counterclockwise) or use a dull drill.
Great tip. Thanks!
@@ItsMeaDMaDe wasn't my idea, got this info from youtuber "wornout". title "Drilling Holes In Resin 3D Printed Parts". Has worked for me since then :)
what if i did add holes.. giant ones... multiple.. and I washed it firmly.. and dried it with a hair dryer before hardening.. and it still exploded? i got myself with half a kilo of destroyed terrain. it happened after more than 24 hours. i managed to cure and paint them already. and they cracked in 2-4 pieces. like the interior of the print expanded.
Well... what helped is 1) lesen down the infill.. down to 12-15% max.
2) over expose the shit out of my print in curing. like curing for 1 hour.
3) I print in transparent only now, o when curing I can cure even trapped pockets of resin somewhere in the print where they shouldn't be.
Where do u get your resin printer settings? How do get your prints to come out perfect
Just settings I tweak over time. Some of it is from the manufacturer of the resin. Most resin makers will give you recommended settings for your printer and resin.
Good stuff my man!
Thanks man!
Hello meadmade, I heard that if you don’t shake your resin before use it will cause prints to explode because some parts of the model will not cure is that true or the only reason we shake resin is because of the print quality?
The tmnt piece… do you think it would’ve exploded if you didn’t hollow it and left it solid?
It’s not if you leave it solid. It’s if you hollow it and not put a hole for ventilation and to clean out all of the uncured resin in the hollowed part.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe so if you had printed it solid, it would’ve been fine? Im just trying to find out if its ok to print solid or not
Literally happened to me last night and scared the shit out of me cuz most of my prints are water washable and hollow
Yeah it’s not a fun experience.
Thanx alooot yr really helpful ill surely subscribe to yr patreon .. but u know i have base with 3 holes with wall thick 0.12 its also cracked still dont know how
Thanks glad it helped. That’s strange we’re you able to wash it really good and cure the inside as well? That could cause it too or possibly you wall thickness is too thin. I typically print a .2mm thickness
Wall thickness of 0.12 what…Inches, Millimeters, Centimeters? Most measurements in 3D printing are given in mm, so if that’s 0.12mm those are VERY thin walls and I would expect them to break very easily. Around 2mm for smaller prints and 3mm or more for larger prints is typical from what I’ve seen.
Also use UVtools
What is your normal wall thickness?
UV LEDs need to be used to cure the resin inside the models through the holes you made.