I highly recommend 3.5mm wall thickness anything lower and you run the risk of your model cracking within days or even several months down the road. Nothing worse then printing a nice model spending weeks sanding and painting it, to only have it explode 6 months later. I 3D print for a living and I never hollow anything under 3.5mm wall thickness anymore, It's just not worth the risk. Great video though nonetheless :)
@@barulicksama3838 3.5 is absolutely unnecessarily thick. 5 or 6 is just crazy. If you're printing out some small figures or something, I usually got anywhere between 1.8 - 3. The bigger the model, the thicker you'll want it to be. His print exploding 6 months later has nothing to do with the thickness, that's just improper cleaning of the interior. When there's residual resin left on the inside, it will degrade the resin. And if you seal the holes, it'll build up pressure from the uncured resin chemically eating at the cured resin. I 3D print for a living as well, and unless you're printing something huge, like on a Phrozen Mega 8K or Jupter or M3, there's no need to make your walls that thick.
I might be wrong, but I think when "dig hole continuously" is checked, you can keep digging holes repeatedly according to where you click on the object. If not checked, you will only dig one hole. Has nothing to do with digging a hole through the object. Yours went right through because of the depth of hole in your hole setting.
Thats actually interesting what you said about hollow models not having holes, blow up. My brother has some cars and after he paintes them, they explode and then melt. But I print solid animal skull and they seem fine.
Good advice. I would suggest a few changes but only minor ones. 4-5 percent cubic infill will keep supports from sprouting inside your drain holes. 1.5 to 1.8 wall thickness is plenty strong and will be cured all the way through. Any thicker and it won't cure from the outside. Just things I watched from other creators that make huge prints with no issues. I always thought they were solid too. Glad you made this video. You should have sliced it hollowed and showed the difference in resin used. I bet it would have been huge. Thanks for the video
Wonderful Tutorial , wish I had of seen this before I started printing the mistakes I made 😂 I find the other great reason for drainholes is suction… It helps avoid a lot of print failures
Hello i have a question, My print completed to 100% but the models printed only half body any idea what happened? There was enough resin in the tank. But have no idea what happened i use elegoo Mars 5 ultra and ABS plant base resin with 35 on bottom exposure.
Great video! I downloaded Chitubox ust because of this hollow feature. But it cant completely replace my other slicer because Chitubox has no feature to slice up an object. Does the Pro version?
Chitubox is great for hallowing. But it’s just for SLA printing. But you can hallow and then export a STL which is nice. It would be nice if it did what your wanting.
Microsoft 3D Builder can hollow models and then save them in pretty much any format needed. I use FlashDLPrint as my slicer for my Flashforge 9.25" 6k printer and hollow using 3D builder. It's also fantastic for kit bashing multiple models together.
from what i understand the all the holes really shouldnt be directly on the build plate like it is in this video. suction will be very strong with this print.
The only problem I have with hollowing out prints is that they tend to expand and crack after I resealed them up. I'm sure all I need to do is rinse out the model better with alcohol and try to cure the inside with a UV light but its tough to get a light into some models. Any suggestions?
Yeah I use to have that same problem. I find it helps you match your holes up and that way you have holes in the bottom of your model as well to allow the model to not be pressurized. Hope that makes sense.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe im using a LD-002H with siraya tech fast resin navy grey and my normal exposure is 1.5s perfect exposure and bottom layer @ 20s and i end up with bottom splits what am i doing wrong?
@@MMQsTacosConLimons Lift speed is probably too high and the suction force is separating the layers. Also depending on what exposure test you're running "perfect" exposure for layers can be elusive. Example if my perfect exposure per layer is 2.8 seconds often I will have a partial fail or split in the print. However if I add 0.10 seconds to that exposure time the problem is solved and aside from improper supports models will successfully print all the live long day. So I would start by lowering the lift speed to give it time to release from the FEP and if the problem persists I would bump up the layer exposure time.
![Natanael Cano - Amor Eterno [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EO4prCs6WpM/mqdefault.jpg)
Use grid infill, and 5-8 % infill. After it, you dont need support inside, print perfect, wash and cure much easier!
You are spot on with your viewers! Your content is spot on and always very well explained! 😎
Thanks so much! That is truly my goal to make anyone understand what I’m teaching. Thank you for your comment.
I highly recommend 3.5mm wall thickness anything lower and you run the risk of your model cracking within days or even several months down the road. Nothing worse then printing a nice model spending weeks sanding and painting it, to only have it explode 6 months later. I 3D print for a living and I never hollow anything under 3.5mm wall thickness anymore, It's just not worth the risk. Great video though nonetheless :)
So it's been a year, can you still recommend 3.5 mm? Or it's not enough? Maybe we should go with 5 or 6 millimeters?
wow no reason to be a dickbag about it
@@barulicksama38383.5mm makes me think that he is not adding enough drainage and has uncured resin trapped and the off gas is bursting the print.
@@barulicksama3838 3.5 is absolutely unnecessarily thick. 5 or 6 is just crazy. If you're printing out some small figures or something, I usually got anywhere between 1.8 - 3. The bigger the model, the thicker you'll want it to be. His print exploding 6 months later has nothing to do with the thickness, that's just improper cleaning of the interior. When there's residual resin left on the inside, it will degrade the resin. And if you seal the holes, it'll build up pressure from the uncured resin chemically eating at the cured resin.
I 3D print for a living as well, and unless you're printing something huge, like on a Phrozen Mega 8K or Jupter or M3, there's no need to make your walls that thick.
Just got my first resin printer. Your videos are a huge help thank you. Earned a subscription
That’s great. Congratulations on the printer. Best of luck on your future prints!
I might be wrong, but I think when "dig hole continuously" is checked, you can keep digging holes repeatedly according to where you click on the object. If not checked, you will only dig one hole.
Has nothing to do with digging a hole through the object.
Yours went right through because of the depth of hole in your hole setting.
Thats actually interesting what you said about hollow models not having holes, blow up.
My brother has some cars and after he paintes them, they explode and then melt.
But I print solid animal skull and they seem fine.
Good advice. I would suggest a few changes but only minor ones. 4-5 percent cubic infill will keep supports from sprouting inside your drain holes. 1.5 to 1.8 wall thickness is plenty strong and will be cured all the way through. Any thicker and it won't cure from the outside. Just things I watched from other creators that make huge prints with no issues. I always thought they were solid too. Glad you made this video. You should have sliced it hollowed and showed the difference in resin used. I bet it would have been huge. Thanks for the video
Love this advice. Clearly explained with the rationale behind why. Great video!
Thanks so much!!!
Wonderful Tutorial , wish I had of seen this before I started printing the mistakes I made 😂 I find the other great reason for drainholes is suction… It helps avoid a lot of print failures
Not owning a resin printer but still watched it ,😁
Well least you know now. 🤣
Would have been good to show the difference in resin volume use after your adjustment to drive your point home. Good video.
This was super helpful! Thank you
Very nice video. Where can we see the dimensions of a model (height, depth, etc)?
Wow I can’t believe how much resin I was wasting since watching this video I’ve saving loads of resin
I’m so glad you found out. Now you can print more!!
the jumping steam icon is quite distratingn :)
Very useful, thank you
*IMPORTANT* what if the model is hollow from the beginning only? Can we still change the thickness of the wall later on slicer still??
awesome and simple to understand vid, and how much $$ did you end up saving?
Hello i have a question, My print completed to 100% but the models printed only half body any idea what happened? There was enough resin in the tank. But have no idea what happened i use elegoo Mars 5 ultra and ABS plant base resin with 35 on bottom exposure.
Great video! I downloaded Chitubox ust because of this hollow feature. But it cant completely replace my other slicer because Chitubox has no feature to slice up an object. Does the Pro version?
Chitubox is great for hallowing. But it’s just for SLA printing. But you can hallow and then export a STL which is nice. It would be nice if it did what your wanting.
Microsoft 3D Builder can hollow models and then save them in pretty much any format needed. I use FlashDLPrint as my slicer for my Flashforge 9.25" 6k printer and hollow using 3D builder. It's also fantastic for kit bashing multiple models together.
Do you need to hollow miniatures? I feel like they would be to small to hollow.
i printed my first figure and made it hollow with a hole, I cured it but the inside still drips water that it reeks as resin, what do I do?
from what i understand the all the holes really shouldnt be directly on the build plate like it is in this video. suction will be very strong with this print.
Thanks.
What if I want to fill models that are hollowed? Is there any program to do that?
Honestly never had that issue. You would probably have to use a 3D software like blender. None of the slicers do that.
The only problem I have with hollowing out prints is that they tend to expand and crack after I resealed them up. I'm sure all I need to do is rinse out the model better with alcohol and try to cure the inside with a UV light but its tough to get a light into some models. Any suggestions?
Yeah I use to have that same problem. I find it helps you match your holes up and that way you have holes in the bottom of your model as well to allow the model to not be pressurized. Hope that makes sense.
Get a tiny pin drill and find a spot nobody will notice and make a tiny hole. This will let gas escape.
I like weighty statues. Makes them feel not so cheap
ok but how much you saved in the end?
Anyone know if he checked his steam account yet?
anyone know how to removed unwanted holes
I use lychee and my hollowing don’t work as good as chitubox
Yeah I use lychee sometimes and I find they are both great for different reasons. If only we could combine them 😅
@@ItsMeaDMaDe im using a LD-002H with siraya tech fast resin navy grey and my normal exposure is 1.5s perfect exposure and bottom layer @ 20s and i end up with bottom splits what am i doing wrong?
@@MMQsTacosConLimons Lift speed is probably too high and the suction force is separating the layers. Also depending on what exposure test you're running "perfect" exposure for layers can be elusive. Example if my perfect exposure per layer is 2.8 seconds often I will have a partial fail or split in the print. However if I add 0.10 seconds to that exposure time the problem is solved and aside from improper supports models will successfully print all the live long day.
So I would start by lowering the lift speed to give it time to release from the FEP and if the problem persists I would bump up the layer exposure time.
Say it with me: (CHEE - 2 - BOX). You're killing me....
I am shocked that this is new information.