Thank you so much! I'm going into resin printing and this video is one I was looking for. Thanks for covering every step end explaining for complete beginners!
Lots of good advice Mead. Well done ! Clipping supports while they're soft, using two cleaning baths and having a small alcohol spray handy are always my recommandation. There are only two steps in my process that are different from what you're presenting. Thought it might interest you. - ULTRASONIC CLEANER : I do not use a Wash and cure station so first dirty alcohol bath is done in an old ice cream plastic container with a hog bristle brush I keep clean every session and the second cleaning bath is done in clean alcohol in a closed container that spends one or two 3mn sessions in the ultrasonic cleaner. The prints come out squeaky clean and I never get residue. After 5mn out drying in the open, i can get them to curing. - UV CURING IN WATER : i'm not printing big statuettes, I'm printing small and thin parts that need to be dimensionaly accurate and not warp or retract at curing. UV curing does heat the print and that causes stress in the model that can make it warp so i do the usual curing with the print immersed in water in a glass bowl for heat dissipation and because of its optic refraction characteristics.
@@BL_SR A DIY build consisting of a motorised turntable, UV Led strips connected to a small timer board and a tin-foil sided enclosure. You can build it up to the desired scale, from a small wooden box to a large metal bucket or even a standardized mailbox. It's the one thing you can do on the cheap without consequences in the whole printing process.
I have an all in one wash and cure station, it's awful at washing but seems to cure just fine, it does cure while it's submerged. I was considering buying an ultrasonic wash station and using the wash and cure as just a curing machine since the video specifies to cure while dry. I do however print things in multiple pieces as well as mechanical pieces so minimizing any shrinkage/expansion/warping is ideal. Should I continue filling the machine with ipa and water, or just water if I'm cleaning the parts prior, or nothing at all since it seems to get hot in there regardless? Thank you for the insight on curing!
I am not a maker. I am not even a hobbiest. I get to dabble with my printers on a very infrequent basis printing minis (resin), terrain (fdm) for D&D. But anything that makes my enjoyment greater and my frustration less is welcome.
I totally get that. I can’t even begin to count how many minis I’ve printed on my resin printer for my dnd campaigns. That’s where I see a ton of savings instead of buying them.
What are your thoughts regarding terrain printing with resin vs fdm? I just got a resin printer for minis, but would also love to make terrain for my players. I’d love to hear your thoughts and inputs on this.
I am certain that someone with more experience could give a better answer, but for me resin is what I use to print things that are small, delicate, and/or highly detailed. But for simpler, larger things I use fdm because it is economical and efficient. For example, I am currently printing Castle Ravenloft in 28mm scale (or trying to 😆) and fdm is better suited for that. I also like the dimensional accuracy that you can achieve with fdm. Especially when you need to cut up your model into multiple parts.
@@jackcampbell4465 that is so cool!! I’m currently DM’ing Dragonlance Shadow of the Dragon Queen, and would LOVE to print out campaign settings like you have, for them. If you were to recommend an FDL printer, what would that be?
Thanks for all the advice. I personally bought a second bucket that I will fill with IPA. I will use one for a dirty wash and the other for a clean wash. Your process is very large, but I appreciate the time you put into this video to explain how you get to a perfect result.
Thanks for a great video. Lots of good information. So you place your build plate back onto the printer with resin still on it. How long will you leave it there before you decide it is time to clean it?
Hi Chris, good points in your video. Though, with delicate parts I prefer to leave the supports on the model until all is dry right before it goes into the hardening station. I print parts for scale aircraft modelling. A thin part, e. g. a propeller blade, tends to warping if washed with all supports gone. Another thing I am doing is to wash the parts in water after the isopropyl alcohol bath to get rid of most of the IPP in this step. Then I give them a good blow with the hair dryer and leave the parts for at least half a day for further drying before curing them.
You can get Vallejo plastic putty or even wood putty you just have to thin that down with water then just sand away what’s left to get smooth seems. I did a video a while back on how I process resin prints as well
Great video! Just got my Mars 4 Ultra set up and the Anycubic wash and cure 3. I ended up buying the Elegoo water washable resin - Is it possible to use IPA instead of water? Or will that damage it. Just curious as it seems many people are using IPA.
This is a little off topic but I am also building a life sized Bulbasaur and I need help with the paint colors. I don't know what you will be using but I am using spray paint, any suggestions?
Thanks for this video. It was very informative. I have my first model that just finished printing and will definitely follow your instructions and see how it goes.
hey, nice videos, can you recommend on a bucket with lid for dirty iso, sponges you use, protective gear and basket for small items? i am using a mesh bag and a plastic bag so it wont float and if some part will manage to get out. thank you
It’s like you mead made this for me!(see what I did there?) 😂 I just bought my first resin printer on Prime day so now I’m learning all about the cleaning process. I haven’t made anything just yet. I want to make sure I understand everything first
That is awesome! Your totally doing it right you need to know everything first cause of the safety concerns. I did a resin 101 video going over all the basics that might help you as well. Here it is: ruclips.net/video/dULlcvoqgLk/видео.html Might help you. Best of luck with the printer!
You definitely don't want to hollow most of your prints. Hollowing minis make no sense. Unless it's big model and/or model printed in more then one part. For example you might want to print main body without hollowing it or hollow it only 50% or something and hollow parts that are attached to it so the main body provides good center of mass.
Brother, you will probably never see this comment. Took notes on all the steps provided on the video. I also gonna buy the Elegoo Mercury Bundle. Thank you so much for this video.
I've seen other videos about post processing, is there a preference between isopropyl alcohol and methylated spirits? Is one better than the other? I'm curious since I'm preparing to get into resin printing.
Honestly, I don’t know of a difference most use IPA due to its easier to get a hold of no matter where you are. Spirts do the job but there can be more of an odor and you need to have good ventilation. I realize I didn’t really answer you but it one of those things that is what ever works best for you. Hope that helps.
@@ItsMeaDMaDeI appreciate the quick response and I'll take your advice into account, I also wanted to say thank you for making this video, I believe yours has been the most straightforward and well informative one I've seen. Thank you for doing what you do!
10 minutes in an ultrasonic bath of Simple Green degreaser, rince in warm water, remove support and brush with soft toothbrush, then a final bath in ipa for 2 minutes. Let air dry then they're ready to cure.
Hey! Ive just found over time the 2-1 stations break down or just don't work as well. I like the elegoo stations cause you can take them apart can clean them easy in the areas that my 2-1 won't allow me too. but that just my opinion some people really like the 2-1 stations and they might not have the room for them...
@@ItsMeaDMaDe You have a valid point there, it should be easier to fix a machine that has only one function compare to a machine that washes but also is responsible for curing. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and time, Happy printing.
thanks for the tips i have the same wash and cure and deff great tips specaillt the wait and don't be in a hurry, i'm deff gonna use my old ethanol to preclean and than wash in clean ispo
Hello! What do you do with the uncured supports? Do you wash them in a separate ipa bath and then cure them? Or do you cure them while still wet with resin? Any insight would be appreciated.
Question about Wicked: How are their files delivered? I'm trying very hard to streamline my sources, I'm sick of having accounts all over the place and having to make an entire hobby out of keeping track of everything. They don't seem to be on MMF or CGT or Cult. Is it just dropbox links or a google folder or something?
I don't own a resin printer but when I do pull the trigger I want to have enough information on hand to minimize wth and maximize my success. Gave you a thumbs up and subscribed. Btw what's the name of that model from wicked ? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, exactly I wish more people did their homework before buying it can be a dangerous hobby to just jump into without know the proper things. I don't know the name it was just the beast model from last month on wicked 3d. Thanks for the sub!
I need help with my resin printer my prints keep falling and printing like it's lopsided and the bed is level and I'm also having trouble with sizeing I have a file that come in peaces but I can't size it right to fit together
I’m about to start with 3D printing, mostly because of RPG. I got tons of question and your channel is helping me out! … if I may, I have one question: I’m in doubt about two printers -> Mars 4 max or Saturn 3?
Take it to your local government hazardous waste facility. People talk about putting it outside to evaporate the alcohol from the resin, but this could be risky because of weather changes or accidental spills.
Not at all. The details are already partially cured a sponge won’t do damage. But if you’re using a firm toothbrush or something it could make small scratches. You’re just helping get all the uncured resin off.
hi, loot of time i strugle witg printed parts . they dont fit together nicely und properly,,, i have always huge gap between parts and i dont know what is wrong,, why one figure is 100% and another strugke witg fitinf :(
I totally agree with two stage washing…it really helps save💰on IPA by mak8ng t last longer. I’m using 99.9% and wondered, is 91% all I really need? I mean, if you’re using it and it works for you, it seems obvious I’m spending too much for my IPA, right? Obviously, what I’m using works…but I could be saving money going with a lower concentration. How low can we safely go?
Thanks for the video! I found it very helpful. Especially the 2 stage wash system. Question: when do you know you have to changes the dirty bucket of IPA? And what is your process for that? Can you “recycle” it somehow, or decant some of it to re-use it for initial washing? Thanks again!
Just dump it in a clear bucket, expose it to sunlight or UV light to cure the resin and then you can toss it out. If you’re not filtering to reuse IPA will evaporate.
@@thatkidvicious everywhere seems to say not to throw the water out and to dispose of it at a water recycling plant? Is it ok to pour it down the drain once you've removed all the cured resin?
@@DuggyDarkoabsolutely do not throw out the water. You need to treat the water exactly the same as you'd treat dirty alcohol. It's HAZMAT, and every city I know of takes 'household HAZMAT' for free as long as you give them your name, address, and verify you live there. It's better for everyone. (To make sure you're not, you know, dumping metric tons of stuff for a business) Really, the #1 rule I was taught with resin printing: There are no shortcuts. Water Washable just changes the solvent to clean a print from alcohol to water. It's not "greener", it's not safer. You still need to treat your wash solvent the same way as with Alcohol. Cure the resin, maybe try to filter out the resin particles, then either reuse the cleaner/reclaimed water -- or take it off to HAZMAT. Here's the thing with taking the waste to HAZMAT facilities: It's free in most places, and they have trained people, the right equipment, the right procedures, and all the time and patience to get it right. It's way safer for you. And it goes back to the #1 rule of resin printing: There are no shortcuts.
I have a very similar process but rather than waiting I use a blow dryer. Manual check & spray and wipe away those pesky excess resin spots with the little free brushes that come in Elegoo's resin boxes
I have a very thorough process. Let plate sit sideways for a while in the printer > scrape the minis into a vat of hot mean green in a metal lidded catering pan thats floating in water in a giant ultrasonic cleaner (this way I don't have to clean the ultrasonic cleaner itself) > once thats done, drop it in another metal square pan thats on a hot plate and the water is hot > let it sit for a minute and start fishing out each piece and pull the supports off - they fall off with zero resistance > the remaining pieces now go into wash and cure
Have you tried this before? SUNLU 3D Resin Cleaner,3D Printer Resin Detergent, Hand-Washable Cleaner for 3D Printed Resin, Non-Toxic Reusable Resin Cleaner, Compatible with 3D Printing Resins, UV Resin, Epoxy Resin, 3KG Pack
This is almost the exact same process I have been using after a few years of resin printing, been using a tooth brush instead of the little sponges on a stick, I have a bunch of those in the garage so will give them a shot this week
where a respirator..... that might be a good idea i did a few prints in a well vented room and it still was pretty strong i dont belive that little bit was enough to hurt my lungs but def didnt know i should be wearing one thx
great video and nicely explained, but.. now I don't understand how some others, for example, take a brush and apply liquid resin over the model so that they get a smooth surface, and you say the complete opposite, that there should not be even a small amount of resin, it is precisely siraya tech hig temperature resin that can be useful for the mold, and to get a shiny surface on the 3D model made in that mold, it is necessary to coat the mold in that way, I watched your video and that other video and now I don't understand anything, and I gather information and learn how to do it right
You need holes to clean the inside of the print...but if you didn't hollow your print there wouldn't be an inside...seems like a circular argument to me.
That is correct but if you don’t hallow your prints you are wasting a ton of resin. Without hallowing them you could drive up the cost of one figure x5 depending on the size.
lol... I, too, rinse my parts in alcohol before putting them in the Wash and Cure (for the same reason you do), but isn't what you're doing basically the "wash your dishes before putting them in the dishwasher" mentality? 🤷♂ I'm just saying 😁
Have the actual washing station be the dirty mix because you can rest the build plate on the wire frame in the washing tub. This makes it super easy to clean the top of the build plate with a paintbrush while the models sit in the alcohol wash. Then you can have your clean alcohol in whatever container you want or even a second Elegoo tub so you can put it on top of the magnetic stirring base.
@@mizokia lol... you know what, after I posted that, I decided that that wasn't such a bad idea after all. I pull my models off the plate, rinse them in a cheap alcohol bath by hand to get the bulk of the resin off then put them in the wash station with the more expensive denatured alcohol for the final clean.
![BETTER cleaning & curing of 3D resin prints [EASY METHOD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kL9TCjtPbw4/mqdefault.jpg)
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Video starts at 1:48
Thank you. Too much fluff.
Thank you so much! I'm going into resin printing and this video is one I was looking for. Thanks for covering every step end explaining for complete beginners!
Lots of good advice Mead. Well done ! Clipping supports while they're soft, using two cleaning baths and having a small alcohol spray handy are always my recommandation. There are only two steps in my process that are different from what you're presenting. Thought it might interest you.
- ULTRASONIC CLEANER : I do not use a Wash and cure station so first dirty alcohol bath is done in an old ice cream plastic container with a hog bristle brush I keep clean every session and the second cleaning bath is done in clean alcohol in a closed container that spends one or two 3mn sessions in the ultrasonic cleaner. The prints come out squeaky clean and I never get residue. After 5mn out drying in the open, i can get them to curing.
- UV CURING IN WATER : i'm not printing big statuettes, I'm printing small and thin parts that need to be dimensionaly accurate and not warp or retract at curing. UV curing does heat the print and that causes stress in the model that can make it warp so i do the usual curing with the print immersed in water in a glass bowl for heat dissipation and because of its optic refraction characteristics.
Good advice. Thanks for sharing.
What kind of curing station do you use? Thanks for sharing!
@@BL_SR A DIY build consisting of a motorised turntable, UV Led strips connected to a small timer board and a tin-foil sided enclosure. You can build it up to the desired scale, from a small wooden box to a large metal bucket or even a standardized mailbox. It's the one thing you can do on the cheap without consequences in the whole printing process.
I have an all in one wash and cure station, it's awful at washing but seems to cure just fine, it does cure while it's submerged. I was considering buying an ultrasonic wash station and using the wash and cure as just a curing machine since the video specifies to cure while dry. I do however print things in multiple pieces as well as mechanical pieces so minimizing any shrinkage/expansion/warping is ideal. Should I continue filling the machine with ipa and water, or just water if I'm cleaning the parts prior, or nothing at all since it seems to get hot in there regardless?
Thank you for the insight on curing!
I am not a maker. I am not even a hobbiest. I get to dabble with my printers on a very infrequent basis printing minis (resin), terrain (fdm) for D&D. But anything that makes my enjoyment greater and my frustration less is welcome.
I totally get that. I can’t even begin to count how many minis I’ve printed on my resin printer for my dnd campaigns. That’s where I see a ton of savings instead of buying them.
What are your thoughts regarding terrain printing with resin vs fdm? I just got a resin printer for minis, but would also love to make terrain for my players. I’d love to hear your thoughts and inputs on this.
I am certain that someone with more experience could give a better answer, but for me resin is what I use to print things that are small, delicate, and/or highly detailed. But for simpler, larger things I use fdm because it is economical and efficient. For example, I am currently printing Castle Ravenloft in 28mm scale (or trying to 😆) and fdm is better suited for that. I also like the dimensional accuracy that you can achieve with fdm. Especially when you need to cut up your model into multiple parts.
@@jackcampbell4465 that is so cool!! I’m currently DM’ing Dragonlance Shadow of the Dragon Queen, and would LOVE to print out campaign settings like you have, for them. If you were to recommend an FDL printer, what would that be?
Came for the tips subbed for your positive attitude
Oh wow! Thanks that made my day.
Thanks for all the advice. I personally bought a second bucket that I will fill with IPA. I will use one for a dirty wash and the other for a clean wash. Your process is very large, but I appreciate the time you put into this video to explain how you get to a perfect result.
Good video, and I hope your channel takes off. Subbed and liked. Thanks for not telling us to smash that like button.
Thanks a lot. I’m definitely not a person that reminds people to like and subscribe I figure if you want to you will. 😅
which breathing mask do you recommend? Thanks for the great video!
I got one from 3M (Model 6002C). Good fit and easy to breath.
What type of filters should I be using for my 3m respirator?
A2P3 is good.
@omarforbes: For a 3M respirator, the 60921 organic vapor cartridge is probably what you'd be looking for.
Thanks for a great video. Lots of good information. So you place your build plate back onto the printer with resin still on it. How long will you leave it there before you decide it is time to clean it?
With the price of IPA, I use Denatured Alcohol first wash and a final wash in acetone. Both available at Lowe’s
Hi Chris, good points in your video.
Though, with delicate parts I prefer to leave the supports on the model until all is dry right before it goes into the hardening station. I print parts for scale aircraft modelling. A thin part, e. g. a propeller blade, tends to warping if washed with all supports gone.
Another thing I am doing is to wash the parts in water after the isopropyl alcohol bath to get rid of most of the IPP in this step. Then I give them a good blow with the hair dryer and leave the parts for at least half a day for further drying before curing them.
I would also recommend covering your hair and tying it back. The shards fly everywhere . Awesome vid, sir ty.
I tuck my hair into a beanie, hair cant come loose, and nothing flies into it.
so glad I found your channel! been learning a lot!
hi ! great video! may i know what do u do to fill those gaps inbetween the joints?
You can get Vallejo plastic putty or even wood putty you just have to thin that down with water then just sand away what’s left to get smooth seems. I did a video a while back on how I process resin prints as well
Great video! Just got my Mars 4 Ultra set up and the Anycubic wash and cure 3. I ended up buying the Elegoo water washable resin - Is it possible to use IPA instead of water? Or will that damage it. Just curious as it seems many people are using IPA.
Thanks again. Do you have a any advice on how to one your cure times?
This is a little off topic but I am also building a life sized Bulbasaur and I need help with the paint colors. I don't know what you will be using but I am using spray paint, any suggestions?
Thanks for this video. It was very informative. I have my first model that just finished printing and will definitely follow your instructions and see how it goes.
This process worked very well. Thanks again for the advice.
Good tips, mate❤
Thanks!! Glad you think so!
What is your opinion on water-washable resin?
hey,
nice videos, can you recommend on a bucket with lid for dirty iso, sponges you use, protective gear and basket for small items? i am using a mesh bag and a plastic bag so it wont float and if some part will manage to get out.
thank you
It’s like you mead made this for me!(see what I did there?) 😂
I just bought my first resin printer on Prime day so now I’m learning all about the cleaning process. I haven’t made anything just yet. I want to make sure I understand everything first
That is awesome! Your totally doing it right you need to know everything first cause of the safety concerns. I did a resin 101 video going over all the basics that might help you as well.
Here it is: ruclips.net/video/dULlcvoqgLk/видео.html
Might help you. Best of luck with the printer!
Good tips, I do have a question as you mentioned you have to hollow prints. So if I don't hollow and print solid, it won't clean all the resin?
You definitely don't want to hollow most of your prints. Hollowing minis make no sense. Unless it's big model and/or model printed in more then one part. For example you might want to print main body without hollowing it or hollow it only 50% or something and hollow parts that are attached to it so the main body provides good center of mass.
Brother, you will probably never see this comment. Took notes on all the steps provided on the video. I also gonna buy the Elegoo Mercury Bundle. Thank you so much for this video.
Would you hallow even small print as 28/ 32mm miniatures?
I start hollowing when they get over 100mm.
I glued 4 mirrors in my curing station so it reflects from all sides.
How do you clean up your silicone pad with puddles of resin?
I just use isopropyl alcohol and use a paper towel to wipe it up.
Make sure to cure the paper towel before throwing it away after cleaning the pad.
I've seen other videos about post processing, is there a preference between isopropyl alcohol and methylated spirits? Is one better than the other? I'm curious since I'm preparing to get into resin printing.
Honestly, I don’t know of a difference most use IPA due to its easier to get a hold of no matter where you are. Spirts do the job but there can be more of an odor and you need to have good ventilation. I realize I didn’t really answer you but it one of those things that is what ever works best for you. Hope that helps.
@@ItsMeaDMaDeI appreciate the quick response and I'll take your advice into account, I also wanted to say thank you for making this video, I believe yours has been the most straightforward and well informative one I've seen. Thank you for doing what you do!
10 minutes in an ultrasonic bath of Simple Green degreaser, rince in warm water, remove support and brush with soft toothbrush, then a final bath in ipa for 2 minutes. Let air dry then they're ready to cure.
Are all the big gaps in the final model part of the original design or something that occurred during the process?
Hi Chris you mentioned in your video how you dislike the 2 in 1 wash / cure unit, why is that ? Thanks for sharing.
Hey! Ive just found over time the 2-1 stations break down or just don't work as well. I like the elegoo stations cause you can take them apart can clean them easy in the areas that my 2-1 won't allow me too. but that just my opinion some people really like the 2-1 stations and they might not have the room for them...
@@ItsMeaDMaDe You have a valid point there, it should be easier to fix a machine that has only one function compare to a machine that washes but also is responsible for curing. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and time, Happy printing.
Great video ! where do you get those shelves?
What's the average time to put in the machine? and same for curing?
thanks for the tips i have the same wash and cure and deff great tips specaillt the wait and don't be in a hurry, i'm deff gonna use my old ethanol to preclean and than wash in clean ispo
What kind of respirator do you use?
Hello! What do you do with the uncured supports? Do you wash them in a separate ipa bath and then cure them? Or do you cure them while still wet with resin? Any insight would be appreciated.
I put it in with the print and wash and cure it
Question about Wicked: How are their files delivered? I'm trying very hard to streamline my sources, I'm sick of having accounts all over the place and having to make an entire hobby out of keeping track of everything. They don't seem to be on MMF or CGT or Cult. Is it just dropbox links or a google folder or something?
thanks that help me decided on my next ptrinter
I don't own a resin printer but when I do pull the trigger I want to have enough information on hand to minimize wth and maximize my success. Gave you a thumbs up and subscribed. Btw what's the name of that model from wicked ? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, exactly I wish more people did their homework before buying it can be a dangerous hobby to just jump into without know the proper things. I don't know the name it was just the beast model from last month on wicked 3d. Thanks for the sub!
I need help with my resin printer my prints keep falling and printing like it's lopsided and the bed is level and I'm also having trouble with sizeing I have a file that come in peaces but I can't size it right to fit together
Hey man,
Very nice video!
What respirator do you suggest using for this? Filter etc?
I find it helpful to get a rechargeable air duster to help dry them off
Got a fan today.
I’m about to start with 3D printing, mostly because of RPG. I got tons of question and your channel is helping me out! … if I may, I have one question: I’m in doubt about two printers -> Mars 4 max or Saturn 3?
I usually wash my prints in a bucket of water after it comes out of the alcohol wash, is that okay ?
Yes. You can buy the water doesn’t remove the resin. Alcohol is the only thing that breaks it down to remove it.
Make sure not to empty that water down any drain!
What do I do with my IPA after it’s all dirty?
Take it to your local government hazardous waste facility.
People talk about putting it outside to evaporate the alcohol from the resin, but this could be risky because of weather changes or accidental spills.
Rubbing it with the spouncer doesn't mess it up? I've always been super gentle with my prints for fear of messing up the detail lol.
Not at all. The details are already partially cured a sponge won’t do damage. But if you’re using a firm toothbrush or something it could make small scratches. You’re just helping get all the uncured resin off.
@@ItsMeaDMaDethank you! That makes sense!
hi, loot of time i strugle witg printed parts . they dont fit together nicely und properly,,, i have always huge gap between parts and i dont know what is wrong,, why one figure is 100% and another strugke witg fitinf :(
i have a cardboard box with UV LEDs glued to every side of it and it cures everything beautifully and cost me 15$ :D would recommend
What concentration of IPA do you use: 70%, 91%, or 99%? /big difference in price.
Recommended 95% or more is best.
I totally agree with two stage washing…it really helps save💰on IPA by mak8ng t last longer. I’m using 99.9% and wondered, is 91% all I really need? I mean, if you’re using it and it works for you, it seems obvious I’m spending too much for my IPA, right? Obviously, what I’m using works…but I could be saving money going with a lower concentration. How low can we safely go?
What about air compressor, super easy.
Thanks for the video! I found it very helpful. Especially the 2 stage wash system. Question: when do you know you have to changes the dirty bucket of IPA? And what is your process for that? Can you “recycle” it somehow, or decant some of it to re-use it for initial washing? Thanks again!
I set my dirty IPA out in the sun and then syphon off the IPA
Im still waiting for one of these videos to give a viable solution to disposing of contaminated water/alcohol/uncured resin.
Just dump it in a clear bucket, expose it to sunlight or UV light to cure the resin and then you can toss it out. If you’re not filtering to reuse IPA will evaporate.
@@thatkidvicious everywhere seems to say not to throw the water out and to dispose of it at a water recycling plant? Is it ok to pour it down the drain once you've removed all the cured resin?
@@DuggyDarkoabsolutely do not throw out the water. You need to treat the water exactly the same as you'd treat dirty alcohol. It's HAZMAT, and every city I know of takes 'household HAZMAT' for free as long as you give them your name, address, and verify you live there. It's better for everyone. (To make sure you're not, you know, dumping metric tons of stuff for a business)
Really, the #1 rule I was taught with resin printing: There are no shortcuts. Water Washable just changes the solvent to clean a print from alcohol to water. It's not "greener", it's not safer.
You still need to treat your wash solvent the same way as with Alcohol. Cure the resin, maybe try to filter out the resin particles, then either reuse the cleaner/reclaimed water -- or take it off to HAZMAT.
Here's the thing with taking the waste to HAZMAT facilities: It's free in most places, and they have trained people, the right equipment, the right procedures, and all the time and patience to get it right. It's way safer for you.
And it goes back to the #1 rule of resin printing: There are no shortcuts.
Why promote iso 91 over denatured? Denatured never clouds and doesn't need changed.
I have a very similar process but rather than waiting I use a blow dryer. Manual check & spray and wipe away those pesky excess resin spots with the little free brushes that come in Elegoo's resin boxes
The problem when I remove supports before cutting is that often the part may deform because it's still a little soft
Your resin might be softer than some other brands. I haven’t experienced this yet with Siraya Tech.
I have a very thorough process.
Let plate sit sideways for a while in the printer > scrape the minis into a vat of hot mean green in a metal lidded catering pan thats floating in water in a giant ultrasonic cleaner (this way I don't have to clean the ultrasonic cleaner itself) > once thats done, drop it in another metal square pan thats on a hot plate and the water is hot > let it sit for a minute and start fishing out each piece and pull the supports off - they fall off with zero resistance > the remaining pieces now go into wash and cure
Where to buy such large volumes of alcohol?
Starts here 5:20
Have you tried this before?
SUNLU 3D Resin Cleaner,3D Printer Resin Detergent, Hand-Washable Cleaner for 3D Printed Resin, Non-Toxic Reusable Resin Cleaner, Compatible with 3D Printing Resins, UV Resin, Epoxy Resin, 3KG Pack
I got bad news about elegoo wash and cure stations….
This is almost the exact same process I have been using after a few years of resin printing, been using a tooth brush instead of the little sponges on a stick, I have a bunch of those in the garage so will give them a shot this week
where a respirator..... that might be a good idea i did a few prints in a well vented room and it still was pretty strong i dont belive that little bit was enough to hurt my lungs but def didnt know i should be wearing one thx
If I wear a face mask, I can't put on a respirator!? Kinda hard!
great video and nicely explained, but.. now I don't understand how some others, for example, take a brush and apply liquid resin over the model so that they get a smooth surface, and you say the complete opposite, that there should not be even a small amount of resin, it is precisely siraya tech hig temperature resin that can be useful for the mold, and to get a shiny surface on the 3D model made in that mold, it is necessary to coat the mold in that way, I watched your video and that other video and now I don't understand anything, and I gather information and learn how to do it right
These techniques are for 3d printing not injection moulding? This type resin needs washing and curing as it’s a toxic substance.
+9,000 points for emphasizing personal protective gear and how important it is.
I cure my parts in water. Makes a difference.
Hope that water isn’t going down any drains.
as much as i love the detail of a resin printer i just cant justify spending 30$ a gallon for ipa 90% for 4 to 5 gallons
WORST WASHING STATION OUT THEIR MINE BROKE IN 90 DAYS THEN i GOOGLE FIXING IT BOOM SO MANY VIDEO'S.
can you really not print anything completley solid?
Yes. It just uses a lot more resin
It really depends on the size of the piece and personal preference.
Nice vid a bit to much chatting going crazy fast forwarding lol
You've come a long way from trying to conquer Mobius.... or.... are you trying to learn how to print your own Chaos Emeralds...?
You need holes to clean the inside of the print...but if you didn't hollow your print there wouldn't be an inside...seems like a circular argument to me.
That is correct but if you don’t hallow your prints you are wasting a ton of resin. Without hallowing them you could drive up the cost of one figure x5 depending on the size.
For game pieces that get handled, are hollowed prints going to feel fragile?
Hollow game pieces don’t feel fragile, just make sure the wall is thick enough.
This is the type of guy I would like to be friends with in real life.
Yeah? If you wanna chat join my discord server. 😄
dr.Robotnik?
lol... I, too, rinse my parts in alcohol before putting them in the Wash and Cure (for the same reason you do), but isn't what you're doing basically the "wash your dishes before putting them in the dishwasher" mentality? 🤷♂ I'm just saying 😁
Ha ha. Yes that is exactly it. Never heard that analogy before. Love it.
Have the actual washing station be the dirty mix because you can rest the build plate on the wire frame in the washing tub. This makes it super easy to clean the top of the build plate with a paintbrush while the models sit in the alcohol wash.
Then you can have your clean alcohol in whatever container you want or even a second Elegoo tub so you can put it on top of the magnetic stirring base.
@@mizokia lol... you know what, after I posted that, I decided that that wasn't such a bad idea after all. I pull my models off the plate, rinse them in a cheap alcohol bath by hand to get the bulk of the resin off then put them in the wash station with the more expensive denatured alcohol for the final clean.
Oh my God , my parts are flying. 😢
That intro was so nonessential I almost ended it all 1:48 ladies and gents your welcome
lol what Skaven clan does this guy belong to xD
Not to throwing shade at him...but that made me laugh way harder than I would admit
IPA doesn't need nearly the precautions as the resin itself. So stop pointing at the washer, while talking about resin.
Skip the ISO and get some methylated spirits. Far cheaper
The elegoo washers are shit
you talk too much and ramble on a lot... to the point!!
You talk too much, get to the point.
Got a train to catch?
/msg @ItsMeaDMaDe
Is conserving cleaning solution still viable for water-washable resin?