You are decent smart young guy with multiple talents, but most importantly you are the guy with high moral values. Always learn something new from you. Thank you!
Great to see someone take a little extra time to do it right. Instead of measuring every stud, could do first stud, last stud, sister to them and then run a straight edge from edge to edge and fill in the middle studs bringing them out to touch the straight edge.
Just completed a DIY shower tile job reno in a basement bathroom and this was likely the most important video I watched to get the foundational framing corrected before laying backer board and tile. The existing framing was a nightmare and this was a huge help to get it right. Many thanks, the new tile job came out fantastic!
Nicely done. There is an easier way to scribe to the wave of the stud rather than measure and connect dots. Attach the new 2x temporarily with a screw on the top and bottom so its edge is perfectly on your laser line. Then find the distance that is furthest out of plumb. In this case it's 7/16. At that spot, measure 7/16 back on the 2x. Take your scribe, put the scribe point on the old stud, the pencil point on the 7/16 mark and then run it up and down and you have a perfect furring strip. Hope that makes sense.
Im sister studding a shower in the a.m. This video and comment was very helpful; thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge Mr. Marke. And thanks for making the video Mr. Tile coach. I own a flooring business called The Flooring Fellas LLC in N.C. I’ve built my fair share of showers through my 8 years of business ownership, and still look for guys like you 2. To help with the pro tips even though I’ve been there before it pays to know you are always learning even when you know it all. But big thanks guys 🫡
If you’re going to the trouble of temp sistering your 2x, line it up to the finished position and just scribe along the existing stud to have the furring strip traced.
Great detailed instruction, sure these help a lot of other handymen, tilers, builders etc, thanks! One idea for sister studs: Get the 2x3's instead they will always fit. Keep up the good work, we all like to do things the right way and you are a big help!
This video has made my project OH so much easier down the line as what is hiding behind the drywall is always a journey of discovery. Who knew the bathroom walls were going to be so out of plumb after 30 years?!! At least for me the bottom band of the walls were square to each other - small joys. Prepping for success through correcting all the little things will save you many, many headaches downstream. I also purchased a self leveling laser which made the job easier as well. Good demo!
I've spent most of my 17 years working on 100+ year old homes. Lots of furring and sistering to plumb, level and square walls and ceilings. Steel studs are the answer, leaves more room for insulation, always straight and light weight. You can thank me later. 😀 Another trick to ripping the "furring" shim is to temporarily screw a 2x to the side of the existing stud (like your sister stud), scribe your line to the new board and cut the line, saves all that measuring.
Some good points here. But for the insulation, the thermal bridging of the steel studs effectively negates the benefit of the insulation between the studs.
@@scorpio6587 since you're almost always leaving the sister stud proud to the inside of the existing stud, there will be an air gap between the exterior sheathing and steel stud. If you're worried about it stick with steel on interior walls and shim your exterior walls.Double 2x4s with a rating of R-3.5 isn't very good either.
@@tobesskins That's right. The steel sister then passes heat to the stud, which is also a thermal bridge, and now has only a small distance left to cross. Of course you're right that it's irrelevant for interior walls. Indeed, the wood studs themselves are very poor insulators, but r-3.5 is much better than zero. The best solution is continuous exterior insulation, but that goes way beyond the scope of this bathroom remodel. I think Isaac's choice of method here, mostly furring, is sound.
My house was built in the early 1900's and it was sort of a rebuild after a fire in the 60s but they kept most of the burnt wood and plastered over it. I've not had one "normal" try your best job. I'm working on my 3rd room now and I wish i watched your video sooner. Just wanted to say thank you. The studs aren't anything I've seen online everything is going sideways mostly and it looks like hand carved wood studs. Inches different in just a small area. You make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Appreciate your selflessness and honest approach in showing us the different ways to do the task. I have been following your knowledge-filled videos for years. I like the way you treat your client's homes. I am like you and never cut corners but always use my drop sheets to protect and show attention.
I am from Switzerland and moved to the US a couple years ago. I just renovated a guest bathroom by myself. Some of your videos helped. Thank you. I use the metric system for measurements and cutting etc. all the time. It makes math much easier. Most products have both imperial and metric measurements on their boxes and instructions, which makes it easy.
Goddamn Europeans with your simpler and more accurate measurement systems. We work harder not smarter here in the the US of A, and if you don't like it, then get the hell out. lol
Fantastic video. Thank you for showing 3 different methods for getting walls straight. I'm rebuilding a shower for the first time and the studs are wonky. One is bowed with 1" of deflection in the middle. Unfortunately, being the newbie that I am, I didn't realize I needed to take care of this BEFORE the plumber installed the new tub. I'm going to have to get creative.
Seven years ago I was searching everywhere for a video like this after an old timer told me to cut furring strips to plumb out studs around my bathtub. It was extremely overwhelming for me at that time but ended up doing exactly this with a laser line and cutting strips on my table saw. Thanks for sharing!
DIYer here. I probably would not have thought of checking wall plumb prior to sheeting, and even if I did, I would not have corrected it properly. Thanks yet again for saving me grief and frustration!
TC listens people. He does! The most missed quality in us humans nowadays. I was one of those interested in air scrubber and TC delivered. And for all of those wanting more details that machine is Hepa-Aire PAS1200 and it runs for $2000 new. Great video TC. Thanks for sharing. And as always … We ❤️ You Back.
I remodeled my entire bathroom using your videos to build up the confidence. Relocated all plumbing, electrical, water, and walls. Please never stop creating new content
Man I can’t thank you enough nobody has ever explained this so perfectly I’ve been looking for something like this for a very long time bro thank you I just subscribed
I would have f'ed up so bad if you didn't make these videos a few months ago. Shower I built came out awesome because of your videos. Can't tell u how much I appreciate this.
We can not thank you enough for all these great videos, the passion, and dedication, it really means a lot to us. Many Blessings to you and your family.
There couldn't have been better timing for this video.... I've been stalled on my daunting home renovation and shower walls was next on the list. Your approach to the craft is top notch. I appreciate your dedication.
I watched several of his videos, and I'm not a complete stranger to construction or tiling. My Dad always stressed ensuring everything is square and level and so does Isaac. I just finished a project in an investment home and the only thing that saved me was furring the walls behind the backerboard. It seemed extreme to me at first, but installing 24x48 inch tiles, I knew that having a square and level surface was absolutely crucial. Project turned out fantastic, and the tiles went in seamlessly.
Thank you, Thank You, Thank You! So many guys saying so many things and I couldn't find anyone with a easy and quick way to plumb the original studs. I can now finish my rough in for a walk-in shower, all thanks to you! When I'm done I'll have a cold, clean, refreshing, bottle of good beer right out of very cold frig., and salute "The Tile Coach"!!! Thanks again for this video and to any in the future that I'll probably need!!🫡🍺🍻
What a great video my man, full of amazing info. I was never really sure how to do this the best way but that laser idea really made it simple for me since i have one. Thanks a bunch
This video is what I needed. Two out of the three walls are so crooked. I'm going to probably use all of the methods displayed. My level rocks lick a seesaw in several places. I can't thank you enough.
Air scrubber is great- but it’s also why I sucked up the cost and bought Festool. Their dust collection is second to none. Capture at the source rather than scrub the air. Much easier. Awesome videos, as always.
If the situation allows it- even cheaper to suck in clean outside air and just vent out dusty air. I use a 24" dia. collapsible duct and a box fan. If the room is isolated in the middle of the house, I use polysheet walls and a 30" x 30" furnace filter for the intake as well.
Thanks! Really enjoy your videos, they have saved me a lot of headaches. As far as converting to metric, it starts with each individual. Metric tape measures and other measuring tools are readily available now so converting to metric shouldn't be a problem. It comes down to making the choice.
Like i told StudPack, the Orange and Blue box store paint sticks are super free and great shims.. I always grab a handful of the 1gallon and 5 gallon sticks when i go to those stores!
My favorite tape measure is a dual scale inch/metric for when I just don't feel like dealing with the fractions, but usually I carry both types of tapes.
Just found this video. Have done a couple of bathroom remodels over the last several years and currently working on another, definitely an amateur. This video was very helpful, appreciate you for taking the time to do this. I was laid off in February and still looking for work. Been thinking about doing more bathroom remodels if the opportunity presents itself. If I do, hoping to use your wisdom in helping me to get better. Great video on all three methods! Blessings to you & your family!
Perfect video at the perfect time. I just ordered the drywall shims for $18 at acme tools. The cheapest place I found a pack of 100. Now I'll also try the laser level since I got one for $80 on Amazon. It's 4d. So two verticals and two horizontal lines. So I'll finally use it now! And I appreciate the explanation. I literally ripped drywall out of a duplex partition wall bc of the bowed drywall humps in different spots. You just helped me fix it without botching it. Perfect timing. Thank you!
A year ago I flattened the walls in my 1945 home with a combination of furring strips, sister studs, planing/sanding, and swearing. The studs were outright wavy, and also diagonal braces (I don't think it's done any more in construction now) prevented full length sister studs. I can see how once you get your mud mix right, floating is easier.
Yeah it's uncommon to see diagonal bracing these days. If the house is going to have external wood sheathing like osb, that provides all the sheer strength that you need. If the house has vinyl siding and is in a warmer area, there may only be foam board beneath the siding and not a full layer of wood sheathing. Still in that case there should be 2 panels of OSB on the corners and that provides enough sheer strength. You will occasionally see diagonal bracing there, but its rare.
Nice to see 3 diff methods for plumbing a wall in one video….. When we use the furring strips, we call it “packing the wall” and is one of the methods use most; but can be time consuming though. Always a pleasure to watch your vids, have a good one ✌🏻
My house was built in 1920 and was renovated a few times over the years. It has all different "flavors" of 2x4s (true 2x4, 1-1/2 x 3-5/8, and 1-1/2 x 3-1/2). Fun stuff.
Very good video, would like to see more about getting walls plumb , square and on the same plane. Very few good videos addressing this issue. This video was very good.
JUST finished my attempt at plumbing up a wall for a tub that will be tiled. Needless to say, I finished prior to this video coming out. Had I waited, this video would’ve simplified my plan, and would’ve netted far better results. Never seen a cardboard shim before this video, and in certain cases of my own install, really could’ve use the thinner material than my smallest wood shim that I had to cut myself. In some situations, my shim actually made most of the wall plumb, but where I needed something thinner, made it slightly out in those areas. I’m a capable diy’er, and love learning how professionals of their trade efficiently work through everyday troubles, and this video will be my 101 for plumbing up any wall I come across in the future. Thank you for showing all the methods, and plumbing options as well.
Another great video. I’m with you, make all my cuts indoors and I use a DIY air scrubber. Built it using an old HVAC squirrel cage fan, some plywood and furnace filters for less than 100 bucks. When people ask why a tile job cost so much and why did it take so long…they don’t understand or see all the prep work that goes into making the substrate flat and straight.
Issac i love your videos, theyve helped me up my game when tiling, i jut did my first successful drypack shower pan thanks to your videos and tips, customers are extremely happy
Gotta be sure the new sister studs are straight and not crowning or you'll create the same problem all over again. One more thing I found when I just bought my laser level, they tell you to use the center of the beam vs the edge since the beam is different widths depending on how close to the laser your are. Love your videos though tha is for all the selfless help you provide.
Great video! Sistering studs is my go-to. Cutting inside the bathroom is also my go-to 😆always have a fan blowing out a window or the air scrubber in use 👌🏽🤙🏽
I remember being a kid in the mid 70's and they were telling us we are converting to the metric system. 45 years later...I don't think it will ever happen Coach!
I redid one bathroom in our house and had to shim out one whole wall. In one bedroom I redid one stud was almost a full inch out. Ended up having to shave it down. I ended up drawing a plum line then using my skill saw to shave it down. If there is an easier way to shave the walls down it would be great to know. While the skill saw worked it was very difficult to do. By the way I am with you on using the metric system! So much easier. I 3D print a lot and it is all in metric. All my CAD drawings are metric. I have to go back and forth all the time, it is a pain. Also, I really enjoy watching your videos. You present very well and provide so much great knowledge! Thanks for all you do!
The easier way is to use a planer. i think generally it is easier to not plane down walls, but to furr out to the part of the wall that sticks out the most. Maybe plane sometimes if its just a small area sticking out extra.
Revolutionary video for me as I don't know what I'm doing and am about halfway thru this process. One of the issues I'm having is finding straight 2x4s at the stores to use for sistering haha. But the other two methods are great. Thank you
Glad to see you back. For what ever reason you havent been popping up on my notifications. Not sure if they not pushing your videos or whats going on. inuse to get notified with no problems
I’ve gone over to metric measurements for dimensions under a foot. I started by using a tape with metric and imperial marks. Then slowly adjusted to using metric. It’s SO much easier to calculate dimensions!👍
Same here I switched to using metric more after watching scott browns carpentry. I literally told my self "hm this seems easier" and it was. I wish it was used more for calculations such as conduit bending, im trying to learn how to bend conduit to learn things in the union. Although I highly doubt they will let metric measurements slide even though the whole codebook is in metric.
An easy way to operate within the imperial measurement system is to determine what your tolerance is and mark everything in that denomination. If you operate within 1/16th for your tolerance and measure 1/2 in, just write 8 on the wall. I measure everything to a 16th and write the numerator without reducing the fraction. Fast and accurate.
Great video my man. This was the one aspect of my last project that I felt didn’t turn out very well. Wish I had been better prepared. Now I’m all set to go for the next project. Thank you very much!
Thank you for this video!!! I just installed an acrylic tub with a shower wall and it was a nightmare. I wish I would have seen this video first. It still looks decent but I had to make up a lot of the discrepancy with caulking.
Thanks for the tips! I'm renovating my kitchen, where all the walls had to be straightened before I could lay paint-ready fibreboard. Used sister studs in one of the corners, as the only possible solution, in combinations with horizontal battens.
I'm confused - Is there something preventing you from using a metric tape measure? I suppose it's hard to find one to buy in USA. I brought mine back from Japan. Thanks for the helpful video!
Can I use a 18 gauge Brad nail for the furring strip method? This is so helpful… I need to do this for a DIY TV wall project before I put stone on top.
I bought Ryobi, cause bit was better than Dewalt or Milwaukee as few years back. Then Milwaukee came out with gen 2 nailer and framing nailer. I was sold. I still have Ryobi. I wouldn’t take Ryobi for granted, still
I do the same thing but I joint one edge in my shop on the jointer, since the average stud may be sort of straight, but I like them perfect. Makes tiling so much easier.
Love the video, sometimes you have to bust out the planer when the walls kick out out the bottom. I like the sister method, I don’t use the laser even though it’s a great idea/tool…I just plumb it and nail it…I also take my level and run it horizontal to make sure one stud isn’t farther out than the other. I haven’t seen any other video break down the various methods like this, so great.
I tore my bathroom apart and I'm learning from you now. Really struggling with getting started. I just don't like the framing that was installed with the previous shower stall. It looks like the person used pieces of sheetrock or wood to shim, but only at the top. This video should help me figure it out.
The furring I did on the wall for my guest shower seemed a little extreme to me. I couldn't believe how out of square the wall was and I ended up with strips of 3/4 inch plywood at the top plate. But I'm so glad I put in the time to make it square. The tiles I put in were 24x48 inch. With tiles that size, you simply can't hide imperfections like you can with smaller tiles. My tiles went in outstanding and it looks professional.
What if the laser line is less than 2 inches? As that would mean the specific point there on the stud is ahead/protruding than behind… how to tackle that situation?
What happens if you're not doing the entire wall in tile? If you pushed that wall out a tiny bit, how do you end the tile when you reach drywall? The drywall and cement board will not be level anymore.
Could anyone help with explanation @9:03 ish (sistering), he explains a new 2x4 is going to be bigger than an existing 2x4. He says they are usually an eighth inch bigger. Why is this? This caused me a problem and I am curious why this is and should you then just plane the 1/8 inch off before ever replacing a bad stud? They are wider than the top and bottom plate on a shared wall. Why are they sold like this?😢 Wish I had seen this video before replacing the 4 I have already done.
Regarding the thin furr you made, you mentioned if you were to screw in instead of the 15g nailer, that they would split. Well won't it split behind the backer board when you put the backer board screws in? Isn't that the same problem?
I was dying when you said there's my sister nice and plum 😂... No but seriously thank you for your content you've taught me so much im do the sister a lot faster technic but im try ripping the 2x4 in half or 3rds if possible to not waste so much wood
TC makes it all look so easy, but in my experience, to get those results is far more difficult than it seems. I have experienced the same 2 issues, repeatedly, when sistering studs. 1. The original studs are not only out of plumb and crowned, but warped/twisted, so aligning the sister perfectly means next to nothing when it twists way out of position as soon as I attempt to fasten it 2. Using 3” fencing screws to fasten, almost always pulls the sister out of alignment just as soon as the threads bite into the original stud, especially when driving the screw in at an angle Considering that the new studs, even when carefully selected for straightness, are still almost never straight, and depending on where the screws are positioned, how they’re angled, and how the particular bends in the 2 boards interact with each other, sometimes I must drive and then remove a screw, and reposition it, drive it again, remove it again, etc, many times, before I end up with a plumb and fully fastened sister, in the same plane as the others. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, exactly, but I’m pretty sure it’s something because the amount of frustration and cussing involved in the process is noticeably more than in any RUclips video I’ve watched which demonstrates it. Maybe pre-drilling the holes might help reduce the impact of issue #2, but for now I’ll try wet shimming instead.
4:19 Indeed, it would. But just make sure you (or they) don't make the mistake of using pseudo-customary units by using centimetres for measuring stuff; that'll just get you a whole other host of problems. You wanna use millimetres and millimetre-only tape measures, which will radically simplify everything and reduce errors to basically 0.
I am still looking for the best way to plumb up a wall. Wet shimming still allows some highs and lows especially with warped kerdi panels, shimming is time consuming, sistering can be difficult if there is blocking in the wall. I do like sistering with 2 inch strips of 1 inch plywood. I rip the plywood into strips and they are pretty straight. Much straighter than typical 2x4's nowadays. I make sure that the corners are square and start with the far left/right studs. I get those plumb and square and fill in the rest using a straight edge from left to right to make sure that they are in plane. Its still a lot of work and at the end of the day I feel like floating the shower would have taken equal or less time and have a much flatter surface.
We normally do full remodels or flood restoration. I don’t normally cut wood inside, but I do set up 3 2x4s up on there sides up against a wall on the floor. and run plastic over und up the wall then place my tile saw up inside close by.
Regarding using an air scrubber -- you really need to set up a containment wall properly sized for the CFM of the machine to generate an appropriate negative air pressure system. Definitely do it if you can duct tape plastic walls up, but not if all the walls are finished with paint because then you'll need to deal with repainting if you strip the wall finish. Or, you can use zip wall poles to hold the plastic walls up.
15:18 I prefer not using a metal base for the self leveling cement, as it interferes with wifi and cellular/radio signals. Is there a recommeded alternative that doesn't interfere with radio signals? Thanks!
@@j.w.r.i2910 Hi, I have a 1922 house and I have the same wire mesh that is at 15:18 and it interferes with my Logitech G933 and G935 headphone 2.4GHz connections as well as my bluetooth adaptor connections. My transmitters are plugged into my basement pc and the connection drops out in this 2nd-floor bathroom, when I'm above this metal mesh, but works just fine in my 3rd-floor attic, as long as I'm not above my bathroom. Large amounts of metal generally interfere with radio signals.
You are decent smart young guy with multiple talents, but most importantly you are the guy with high moral values. Always learn something new from you. Thank you!
You're totally right
Great to see someone take a little extra time to do it right.
Instead of measuring every stud, could do first stud, last stud, sister to them and then run a straight edge from edge to edge and fill in the middle studs bringing them out to touch the straight edge.
If you do sister stud..what about the gap up the end of the wall up? No need to screw the drywall up there?
Great video. This helped with my nightmare bathroom remodel. You just got a new subscriber.
I've got to thank you for taking the time to explain every step without skipping so many nice parts. I like your videos. Thanks again
Just completed a DIY shower tile job reno in a basement bathroom and this was likely the most important video I watched to get the foundational framing corrected before laying backer board and tile. The existing framing was a nightmare and this was a huge help to get it right. Many thanks, the new tile job came out fantastic!
Love that you showed 3 different ways!! Super helpful video.
Nicely done. There is an easier way to scribe to the wave of the stud rather than measure and connect dots. Attach the new 2x temporarily with a screw on the top and bottom so its edge is perfectly on your laser line. Then find the distance that is furthest out of plumb. In this case it's 7/16. At that spot, measure 7/16 back on the 2x. Take your scribe, put the scribe point on the old stud, the pencil point on the 7/16 mark and then run it up and down and you have a perfect furring strip. Hope that makes sense.
I appreciate the grammar, spelling, and punctuation of this comment.
Im sister studding a shower in the a.m. This video and comment was very helpful; thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge Mr. Marke. And thanks for making the video Mr. Tile coach. I own a flooring business called The Flooring Fellas LLC in N.C. I’ve built my fair share of showers through my 8 years of business ownership, and still look for guys like you 2. To help with the pro tips even though I’ve been there before it pays to know you are always learning even when you know it all. But big thanks guys 🫡
Can I apply this same method but on a door entry wall??
Doesn’t this assume the stud isn’t warped?
If you’re going to the trouble of temp sistering your 2x, line it up to the finished position and just scribe along the existing stud to have the furring strip traced.
love the shout out to the metric system!!!! As a Canadian, I love working in metric
Great detailed instruction, sure these help a lot of other handymen, tilers, builders etc, thanks! One idea for sister studs: Get the 2x3's instead they will always fit. Keep up the good work, we all like to do things the right way and you are a big help!
Excellent tip!
This video has made my project OH so much easier down the line as what is hiding behind the drywall is always a journey of discovery. Who knew the bathroom walls were going to be so out of plumb after 30 years?!! At least for me the bottom band of the walls were square to each other - small joys. Prepping for success through correcting all the little things will save you many, many headaches downstream. I also purchased a self leveling laser which made the job easier as well. Good demo!
Frickin’ love this guy!! Not only a black belt in construction, but also a comedian. Love the Rayobi comment.
I've spent most of my 17 years working on 100+ year old homes. Lots of furring and sistering to plumb, level and square walls and ceilings. Steel studs are the answer, leaves more room for insulation, always straight and light weight. You can thank me later. 😀
Another trick to ripping the "furring" shim is to temporarily screw a 2x to the side of the existing stud (like your sister stud), scribe your line to the new board and cut the line, saves all that measuring.
Some good points here. But for the insulation, the thermal bridging of the steel studs effectively negates the benefit of the insulation between the studs.
@@scorpio6587 since you're almost always leaving the sister stud proud to the inside of the existing stud, there will be an air gap between the exterior sheathing and steel stud. If you're worried about it stick with steel on interior walls and shim your exterior walls.Double 2x4s with a rating of R-3.5 isn't very good either.
@@tobesskins That's right. The steel sister then passes heat to the stud, which is also a thermal bridge, and now has only a small distance left to cross. Of course you're right that it's irrelevant for interior walls. Indeed, the wood studs themselves are very poor insulators, but r-3.5 is much better than zero. The best solution is continuous exterior insulation, but that goes way beyond the scope of this bathroom remodel. I think Isaac's choice of method here, mostly furring, is sound.
Don't need a steel stud for shimming, just get a L bracket, saves money and is essentially as strong.
My house was built in the early 1900's and it was sort of a rebuild after a fire in the 60s but they kept most of the burnt wood and plastered over it. I've not had one "normal" try your best job. I'm working on my 3rd room now and I wish i watched your video sooner. Just wanted to say thank you. The studs aren't anything I've seen online everything is going sideways mostly and it looks like hand carved wood studs. Inches different in just a small area. You make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Appreciate your selflessness and honest approach in showing us the different ways to do the task. I have been following your knowledge-filled videos for years. I like the way you treat your client's homes. I am like you and never cut corners but always use my drop sheets to protect and show attention.
I am from Switzerland and moved to the US a couple years ago. I just renovated a guest bathroom by myself. Some of your videos helped. Thank you. I use the metric system for measurements and cutting etc. all the time. It makes math much easier. Most products have both imperial and metric measurements on their boxes and instructions, which makes it easy.
Goddamn Europeans with your simpler and more accurate measurement systems. We work harder not smarter here in the the US of A, and if you don't like it, then get the hell out. lol
Fantastic video. Thank you for showing 3 different methods for getting walls straight. I'm rebuilding a shower for the first time and the studs are wonky. One is bowed with 1" of deflection in the middle. Unfortunately, being the newbie that I am, I didn't realize I needed to take care of this BEFORE the plumber installed the new tub. I'm going to have to get creative.
Seven years ago I was searching everywhere for a video like this after an old timer told me to cut furring strips to plumb out studs around my bathtub. It was extremely overwhelming for me at that time but ended up doing exactly this with a laser line and cutting strips on my table saw. Thanks for sharing!
DIYer here. I probably would not have thought of checking wall plumb prior to sheeting, and even if I did, I would not have corrected it properly. Thanks yet again for saving me grief and frustration!
TC listens people. He does! The most missed quality in us humans nowadays. I was one of those interested in air scrubber and TC delivered. And for all of those wanting more details that machine is Hepa-Aire PAS1200 and it runs for $2000 new. Great video TC. Thanks for sharing. And as always … We ❤️ You Back.
I remodeled my entire bathroom using your videos to build up the confidence. Relocated all plumbing, electrical, water, and walls. Please never stop creating new content
Man I can’t thank you enough nobody has ever explained this so perfectly I’ve been looking for something like this for a very long time bro thank you I just subscribed
I would have f'ed up so bad if you didn't make these videos a few months ago. Shower I built came out awesome because of your videos. Can't tell u how much I appreciate this.
We can not thank you enough for all these great videos, the passion, and dedication, it really means a lot to us. Many Blessings to you and your family.
There couldn't have been better timing for this video.... I've been stalled on my daunting home renovation and shower walls was next on the list.
Your approach to the craft is top notch. I appreciate your dedication.
I watched several of his videos, and I'm not a complete stranger to construction or tiling. My Dad always stressed ensuring everything is square and level and so does Isaac. I just finished a project in an investment home and the only thing that saved me was furring the walls behind the backerboard. It seemed extreme to me at first, but installing 24x48 inch tiles, I knew that having a square and level surface was absolutely crucial. Project turned out fantastic, and the tiles went in seamlessly.
Thank you, Thank You, Thank You! So many guys saying so many things and I couldn't find anyone with a easy and quick way to plumb the original studs. I can now finish my rough in for a walk-in shower, all thanks to you! When I'm done I'll have a cold, clean, refreshing, bottle of good beer right out of very cold frig., and salute "The Tile Coach"!!! Thanks again for this video and to any in the future that I'll probably need!!🫡🍺🍻
What a great video my man, full of amazing info. I was never really sure how to do this the best way but that laser idea really made it simple for me since i have one. Thanks a bunch
Well now I want and need an air scrubber!
This video is what I needed. Two out of the three walls are so crooked. I'm going to probably use all of the methods displayed. My level rocks lick a seesaw in several places. I can't thank you enough.
Air scrubber is great- but it’s also why I sucked up the cost and bought Festool. Their dust collection is second to none. Capture at the source rather than scrub the air. Much easier. Awesome videos, as always.
If the situation allows it- even cheaper to suck in clean outside air and just vent out dusty air. I use a 24" dia. collapsible duct and a box fan. If the room is isolated in the middle of the house, I use polysheet walls and a 30" x 30" furnace filter for the intake as well.
Thanks!
Thanks! Really enjoy your videos, they have saved me a lot of headaches. As far as converting to metric, it starts with each individual. Metric tape measures and other measuring tools are readily available now so converting to metric shouldn't be a problem. It comes down to making the choice.
Like i told StudPack, the Orange and Blue box store paint sticks are super free and great shims.. I always grab a handful of the 1gallon and 5 gallon sticks when i go to those stores!
Only one per paint can!
I was just at HD 2 days ago getting a 300watt drop light and I grabbed about 20 or so sticks as Hunting Season starts on the 12th!
Great video bro. Best tutorial I found on RUclips for getting existing studs plumb and straight. Thanks.
My favorite tape measure is a dual scale inch/metric for when I just don't feel like dealing with the fractions, but usually I carry both types of tapes.
Great how-to video. You took all the mystery out of it.
Thanks for taking all the time to teach!!
Don't know if anyone's said it yet, but you've got alot of sisters, brother!
Just found this video. Have done a couple of bathroom remodels over the last several years and currently working on another, definitely an amateur. This video was very helpful, appreciate you for taking the time to do this. I was laid off in February and still looking for work. Been thinking about doing more bathroom remodels if the opportunity presents itself. If I do, hoping to use your wisdom in helping me to get better. Great video on all three methods! Blessings to you & your family!
Thanks for the video man! I like the way you break things down and show everything. And seem like a really nice and humble guy. Keep on rocking!
Perfect video at the perfect time. I just ordered the drywall shims for $18 at acme tools. The cheapest place I found a pack of 100. Now I'll also try the laser level since I got one for $80 on Amazon. It's 4d. So two verticals and two horizontal lines. So I'll finally use it now! And I appreciate the explanation.
I literally ripped drywall out of a duplex partition wall bc of the bowed drywall humps in different spots. You just helped me fix it without botching it. Perfect timing. Thank you!
When I did my shower last year, I used strips cut from 30 lb. felt to shim the walls out. It worked just like the cardboard shims you used here.
Brother this is exactly what I needed to see. Your the only one that explain this well.
A year ago I flattened the walls in my 1945 home with a combination of furring strips, sister studs, planing/sanding, and swearing. The studs were outright wavy, and also diagonal braces (I don't think it's done any more in construction now) prevented full length sister studs. I can see how once you get your mud mix right, floating is easier.
Yeah it's uncommon to see diagonal bracing these days. If the house is going to have external wood sheathing like osb, that provides all the sheer strength that you need. If the house has vinyl siding and is in a warmer area, there may only be foam board beneath the siding and not a full layer of wood sheathing. Still in that case there should be 2 panels of OSB on the corners and that provides enough sheer strength. You will occasionally see diagonal bracing there, but its rare.
Thanks coach! Using this method today and it’s crazy how off some of my studs are. Almost fooled myself into thinking it was my laser.
Nice to see 3 diff methods for plumbing a wall in one video…..
When we use the furring strips, we call it “packing the wall” and is one of the methods use most; but can be time consuming though.
Always a pleasure to watch your vids, have a good one ✌🏻
How about stiff thinset on the studs, then tap foam board plumb with level and mallet, screws next day after thinset hardens.
Yes I have hurd of this
On the house I’ve been rebuilding, the original studs were actually 3 5/8”, so that’s been fun dealing with integrating new lumber into the walls.
I had the same problem. I had to use a dimensional planer, but I know most DIYers don't just have one of those out in the garage.
My house was built in 1920 and was renovated a few times over the years. It has all different "flavors" of 2x4s (true 2x4, 1-1/2 x 3-5/8, and 1-1/2 x 3-1/2). Fun stuff.
Very good video, would like to see more about getting walls plumb , square and on the same plane. Very few good videos addressing this issue. This video was very good.
Nice work and advice mate. Thank you. I tend to "sister" most of the time, and only if the wall studs are out.
JUST finished my attempt at plumbing up a wall for a tub that will be tiled. Needless to say, I finished prior to this video coming out. Had I waited, this video would’ve simplified my plan, and would’ve netted far better results. Never seen a cardboard shim before this video, and in certain cases of my own install, really could’ve use the thinner material than my smallest wood shim that I had to cut myself. In some situations, my shim actually made most of the wall plumb, but where I needed something thinner, made it slightly out in those areas. I’m a capable diy’er, and love learning how professionals of their trade efficiently work through everyday troubles, and this video will be my 101 for plumbing up any wall I come across in the future. Thank you for showing all the methods, and plumbing options as well.
What do you do when you transition from a wall that you plumbed to the non tile wall that is in the same plain?
a transition piece
In my case if the difference is too noticable I get a drywall guy to float the wall. That's happening a lot in newer houses.
Drywall mud
Just put a couple hundred layers of paint and that might do the trick! 🎉
Another great video. I’m with you, make all my cuts indoors and I use a DIY air scrubber. Built it using an old HVAC squirrel cage fan, some plywood and furnace filters for less than 100 bucks. When people ask why a tile job cost so much and why did it take so long…they don’t understand or see all the prep work that goes into making the substrate flat and straight.
+1 I did not appreciate this until I did the job myself.
Sheesh, that is genius. Thanks for the tips! Seems like a great way to make walls plumb!
Issac i love your videos, theyve helped me up my game when tiling, i jut did my first successful drypack shower pan thanks to your videos and tips, customers are extremely happy
Thanks brother I appreciate everything you do I’m 26 turn 27 thanks to your videos I was able to make an extra 20k this year thank you!!
Gotta be sure the new sister studs are straight and not crowning or you'll create the same problem all over again. One more thing I found when I just bought my laser level, they tell you to use the center of the beam vs the edge since the beam is different widths depending on how close to the laser your are. Love your videos though tha is for all the selfless help you provide.
Great video! Sistering studs is my go-to. Cutting inside the bathroom is also my go-to 😆always have a fan blowing out a window or the air scrubber in use 👌🏽🤙🏽
I remember being a kid in the mid 70's and they were telling us we are converting to the metric system. 45 years later...I don't think it will ever happen Coach!
It happened. We are there.
I redid one bathroom in our house and had to shim out one whole wall. In one bedroom I redid one stud was almost a full inch out. Ended up having to shave it down. I ended up drawing a plum line then using my skill saw to shave it down. If there is an easier way to shave the walls down it would be great to know. While the skill saw worked it was very difficult to do.
By the way I am with you on using the metric system! So much easier. I 3D print a lot and it is all in metric. All my CAD drawings are metric. I have to go back and forth all the time, it is a pain.
Also, I really enjoy watching your videos. You present very well and provide so much great knowledge! Thanks for all you do!
The easier way is to use a planer.
i think generally it is easier to not plane down walls, but to furr out to the part of the wall that sticks out the most. Maybe plane sometimes if its just a small area sticking out extra.
Revolutionary video for me as I don't know what I'm doing and am about halfway thru this process. One of the issues I'm having is finding straight 2x4s at the stores to use for sistering haha. But the other two methods are great. Thank you
Glad to see you back. For what ever reason you havent been popping up on my notifications. Not sure if they not pushing your videos or whats going on. inuse to get notified with no problems
I’ve gone over to metric measurements for dimensions under a foot. I started by using a tape with metric and imperial marks. Then slowly adjusted to using metric. It’s SO much easier to calculate dimensions!👍
Anytime I do trim work I switch to my Milwaukee 8 meter tape. So much tighter tolerances.
Nonsense. 'Merica.
Just kidding. I know you're totally right.
Same here I switched to using metric more after watching scott browns carpentry. I literally told my self "hm this seems easier" and it was. I wish it was used more for calculations such as conduit bending, im trying to learn how to bend conduit to learn things in the union. Although I highly doubt they will let metric measurements slide even though the whole codebook is in metric.
Welcome to the 20th Century …. The rest of the world has been enjoying this simplicity for 50+ years
An easy way to operate within the imperial measurement system is to determine what your tolerance is and mark everything in that denomination. If you operate within 1/16th for your tolerance and measure 1/2 in, just write 8 on the wall. I measure everything to a 16th and write the numerator without reducing the fraction. Fast and accurate.
While I sometimes have different methods to get the same results as you, your videos are always well thought out and easy to understand.
Great video my man. This was the one aspect of my last project that I felt didn’t turn out very well. Wish I had been better prepared. Now I’m all set to go for the next project. Thank you very much!
Thank you for this video!!! I just installed an acrylic tub with a shower wall and it was a nightmare. I wish I would have seen this video first. It still looks decent but I had to make up a lot of the discrepancy with caulking.
Thanks for the tips! I'm renovating my kitchen, where all the walls had to be straightened before I could lay paint-ready fibreboard. Used sister studs in one of the corners, as the only possible solution, in combinations with horizontal battens.
I'm confused - Is there something preventing you from using a metric tape measure? I suppose it's hard to find one to buy in USA. I brought mine back from Japan. Thanks for the helpful video!
Just a question what if your not able to get the same measurement on both ends of the laser and still remain square with the other wall 1:45 ?
Can I use a 18 gauge Brad nail for the furring strip method? This is so helpful… I need to do this for a DIY TV wall project before I put stone on top.
I bought Ryobi, cause bit was better than Dewalt or Milwaukee as few years back. Then Milwaukee came out with gen 2 nailer and framing nailer. I was sold. I still have Ryobi. I wouldn’t take Ryobi for granted, still
I do the same thing but I joint one edge in my shop on the jointer, since the average stud may be sort of straight, but I like them perfect. Makes tiling so much easier.
That's awesome, i learned a lot. I just bought a fixer upper in SoCal and I'm going to gut the whole house. Gonna be looking forward to your videos.
Great vid mate! Exactly what I was looking for. You have all the different techniques in one easy to follow video. Thank you!
Have you ever tried wet shimming? Only with foam board like kerdi or rss?
Do you have a video on how to square up AFTER the cement board is already up? Or is that like a big NO-NO?
Love the video, sometimes you have to bust out the planer when the walls kick out out the bottom. I like the sister method, I don’t use the laser even though it’s a great idea/tool…I just plumb it and nail it…I also take my level and run it horizontal to make sure one stud isn’t farther out than the other. I haven’t seen any other video break down the various methods like this, so great.
Great tip!
New followed I like the approaches you take to the these challenges, very smart and Professional. Thanks for video
I tore my bathroom apart and I'm learning from you now. Really struggling with getting started. I just don't like the framing that was installed with the previous shower stall. It looks like the person used pieces of sheetrock or wood to shim, but only at the top. This video should help me figure it out.
What happens when you meet up with the finished drywall walls? If they aren't plumb then wouldn't a bump or gap be created?
Do you have any videos on installing cement board on cinder block walls for a shower?
Thank you very much for showing the methods! It definitely helps my own project that I’ve been working on. Thank you!
Did you mention that the sister stud has to be dead on straight?
yeah, bring your 6 foot level to the lumber yard and pick good ones lol
Cut a straight edge on one side of the tubafor, not using the whole thing anyway.
Learning every video bro! Tile isn’t my specialty, but I love building and your tips and tricks definitely help!
The furring I did on the wall for my guest shower seemed a little extreme to me. I couldn't believe how out of square the wall was and I ended up with strips of 3/4 inch plywood at the top plate. But I'm so glad I put in the time to make it square. The tiles I put in were 24x48 inch. With tiles that size, you simply can't hide imperfections like you can with smaller tiles. My tiles went in outstanding and it looks professional.
At the very beginning, I’m assuming that this is done under the assumption that the base plates are square, right?
What if the laser line is less than 2 inches? As that would mean the specific point there on the stud is ahead/protruding than behind… how to tackle that situation?
i have to remodel two bathrooms soon and this channel almost makes me look forward to doing it
Excellent. The paper shim was new to me
You always show/teach me something new in every video, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
What happens if you're not doing the entire wall in tile? If you pushed that wall out a tiny bit, how do you end the tile when you reach drywall? The drywall and cement board will not be level anymore.
Could anyone help with explanation @9:03 ish (sistering), he explains a new 2x4 is going to be bigger than an existing 2x4. He says they are usually an eighth inch bigger. Why is this? This caused me a problem and I am curious why this is and should you then just plane the 1/8 inch off before ever replacing a bad stud? They are wider than the top and bottom plate on a shared wall. Why are they sold like this?😢 Wish I had seen this video before replacing the 4 I have already done.
Regarding the thin furr you made, you mentioned if you were to screw in instead of the 15g nailer, that they would split. Well won't it split behind the backer board when you put the backer board screws in? Isn't that the same problem?
I was dying when you said there's my sister nice and plum 😂... No but seriously thank you for your content you've taught me so much im do the sister a lot faster technic but im try ripping the 2x4 in half or 3rds if possible to not waste so much wood
TC makes it all look so easy, but in my experience, to get those results is far more difficult than it seems.
I have experienced the same 2 issues, repeatedly, when sistering studs.
1. The original studs are not only out of plumb and crowned, but warped/twisted, so aligning the sister perfectly means next to nothing when it twists way out of position as soon as I attempt to fasten it
2. Using 3” fencing screws to fasten, almost always pulls the sister out of alignment just as soon as the threads bite into the original stud, especially when driving the screw in at an angle
Considering that the new studs, even when carefully selected for straightness, are still almost never straight, and depending on where the screws are positioned, how they’re angled, and how the particular bends in the 2 boards interact with each other, sometimes I must drive and then remove a screw, and reposition it, drive it again, remove it again, etc, many times, before I end up with a plumb and fully fastened sister, in the same plane as the others. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, exactly, but I’m pretty sure it’s something because the amount of frustration and cussing involved in the process is noticeably more than in any RUclips video I’ve watched which demonstrates it.
Maybe pre-drilling the holes might help reduce the impact of issue #2, but for now I’ll try wet shimming instead.
4:19 Indeed, it would. But just make sure you (or they) don't make the mistake of using pseudo-customary units by using centimetres for measuring stuff; that'll just get you a whole other host of problems. You wanna use millimetres and millimetre-only tape measures, which will radically simplify everything and reduce errors to basically 0.
What if it’s less than 2inches? Plane it down?? 🤷🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️🤦🏽♂️
I am still looking for the best way to plumb up a wall. Wet shimming still allows some highs and lows especially with warped kerdi panels, shimming is time consuming, sistering can be difficult if there is blocking in the wall. I do like sistering with 2 inch strips of 1 inch plywood. I rip the plywood into strips and they are pretty straight. Much straighter than typical 2x4's nowadays. I make sure that the corners are square and start with the far left/right studs. I get those plumb and square and fill in the rest using a straight edge from left to right to make sure that they are in plane. Its still a lot of work and at the end of the day I feel like floating the shower would have taken equal or less time and have a much flatter surface.
We normally do full remodels or flood restoration. I don’t normally cut wood inside, but I do set up 3 2x4s up on there sides up against a wall on the floor. and run plastic over und up the wall then place my tile saw up inside close by.
Medium CA glue and activator works well for thin furring strips
Having watched a lot of your videos, I am wondering why you didn't do a mud job to plumb and level the walls, like you have done in the past?
Regarding using an air scrubber -- you really need to set up a containment wall properly sized for the CFM of the machine to generate an appropriate negative air pressure system. Definitely do it if you can duct tape plastic walls up, but not if all the walls are finished with paint because then you'll need to deal with repainting if you strip the wall finish. Or, you can use zip wall poles to hold the plastic walls up.
15:18 I prefer not using a metal base for the self leveling cement, as it interferes with wifi and cellular/radio signals. Is there a recommeded alternative that doesn't interfere with radio signals? Thanks!
Wow really ? So if the metal lathe is used on the second floor and higher, it's the samething ? Where did you hear that?
I think you can use a certain thinset depending on the substrate you're putting it over.
@@j.w.r.i2910 Hi, I have a 1922 house and I have the same wire mesh that is at 15:18 and it interferes with my Logitech G933 and G935 headphone 2.4GHz connections as well as my bluetooth adaptor connections. My transmitters are plugged into my basement pc and the connection drops out in this 2nd-floor bathroom, when I'm above this metal mesh, but works just fine in my 3rd-floor attic, as long as I'm not above my bathroom. Large amounts of metal generally interfere with radio signals.