You are decent smart young guy with multiple talents, but most importantly you are the guy with high moral values. Always learn something new from you. Thank you!
Great to see someone take a little extra time to do it right. Instead of measuring every stud, could do first stud, last stud, sister to them and then run a straight edge from edge to edge and fill in the middle studs bringing them out to touch the straight edge.
Nicely done. There is an easier way to scribe to the wave of the stud rather than measure and connect dots. Attach the new 2x temporarily with a screw on the top and bottom so its edge is perfectly on your laser line. Then find the distance that is furthest out of plumb. In this case it's 7/16. At that spot, measure 7/16 back on the 2x. Take your scribe, put the scribe point on the old stud, the pencil point on the 7/16 mark and then run it up and down and you have a perfect furring strip. Hope that makes sense.
Im sister studding a shower in the a.m. This video and comment was very helpful; thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge Mr. Marke. And thanks for making the video Mr. Tile coach. I own a flooring business called The Flooring Fellas LLC in N.C. I’ve built my fair share of showers through my 8 years of business ownership, and still look for guys like you 2. To help with the pro tips even though I’ve been there before it pays to know you are always learning even when you know it all. But big thanks guys 🫡
If you’re going to the trouble of temp sistering your 2x, line it up to the finished position and just scribe along the existing stud to have the furring strip traced.
I've spent most of my 17 years working on 100+ year old homes. Lots of furring and sistering to plumb, level and square walls and ceilings. Steel studs are the answer, leaves more room for insulation, always straight and light weight. You can thank me later. 😀 Another trick to ripping the "furring" shim is to temporarily screw a 2x to the side of the existing stud (like your sister stud), scribe your line to the new board and cut the line, saves all that measuring.
Some good points here. But for the insulation, the thermal bridging of the steel studs effectively negates the benefit of the insulation between the studs.
@@scorpio6587 since you're almost always leaving the sister stud proud to the inside of the existing stud, there will be an air gap between the exterior sheathing and steel stud. If you're worried about it stick with steel on interior walls and shim your exterior walls.Double 2x4s with a rating of R-3.5 isn't very good either.
@@tobesskins That's right. The steel sister then passes heat to the stud, which is also a thermal bridge, and now has only a small distance left to cross. Of course you're right that it's irrelevant for interior walls. Indeed, the wood studs themselves are very poor insulators, but r-3.5 is much better than zero. The best solution is continuous exterior insulation, but that goes way beyond the scope of this bathroom remodel. I think Isaac's choice of method here, mostly furring, is sound.
Appreciate your selflessness and honest approach in showing us the different ways to do the task. I have been following your knowledge-filled videos for years. I like the way you treat your client's homes. I am like you and never cut corners but always use my drop sheets to protect and show attention.
Great detailed instruction, sure these help a lot of other handymen, tilers, builders etc, thanks! One idea for sister studs: Get the 2x3's instead they will always fit. Keep up the good work, we all like to do things the right way and you are a big help!
Seven years ago I was searching everywhere for a video like this after an old timer told me to cut furring strips to plumb out studs around my bathtub. It was extremely overwhelming for me at that time but ended up doing exactly this with a laser line and cutting strips on my table saw. Thanks for sharing!
I’ve gone over to metric measurements for dimensions under a foot. I started by using a tape with metric and imperial marks. Then slowly adjusted to using metric. It’s SO much easier to calculate dimensions!👍
Same here I switched to using metric more after watching scott browns carpentry. I literally told my self "hm this seems easier" and it was. I wish it was used more for calculations such as conduit bending, im trying to learn how to bend conduit to learn things in the union. Although I highly doubt they will let metric measurements slide even though the whole codebook is in metric.
An easy way to operate within the imperial measurement system is to determine what your tolerance is and mark everything in that denomination. If you operate within 1/16th for your tolerance and measure 1/2 in, just write 8 on the wall. I measure everything to a 16th and write the numerator without reducing the fraction. Fast and accurate.
My house was built in the early 1900's and it was sort of a rebuild after a fire in the 60s but they kept most of the burnt wood and plastered over it. I've not had one "normal" try your best job. I'm working on my 3rd room now and I wish i watched your video sooner. Just wanted to say thank you. The studs aren't anything I've seen online everything is going sideways mostly and it looks like hand carved wood studs. Inches different in just a small area. You make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
TC listens people. He does! The most missed quality in us humans nowadays. I was one of those interested in air scrubber and TC delivered. And for all of those wanting more details that machine is Hepa-Aire PAS1200 and it runs for $2000 new. Great video TC. Thanks for sharing. And as always … We ❤️ You Back.
I remodeled my entire bathroom using your videos to build up the confidence. Relocated all plumbing, electrical, water, and walls. Please never stop creating new content
What a great video my man, full of amazing info. I was never really sure how to do this the best way but that laser idea really made it simple for me since i have one. Thanks a bunch
Like i told StudPack, the Orange and Blue box store paint sticks are super free and great shims.. I always grab a handful of the 1gallon and 5 gallon sticks when i go to those stores!
Man I can’t thank you enough nobody has ever explained this so perfectly I’ve been looking for something like this for a very long time bro thank you I just subscribed
We can not thank you enough for all these great videos, the passion, and dedication, it really means a lot to us. Many Blessings to you and your family.
Thanks! Really enjoy your videos, they have saved me a lot of headaches. As far as converting to metric, it starts with each individual. Metric tape measures and other measuring tools are readily available now so converting to metric shouldn't be a problem. It comes down to making the choice.
Nice to see 3 diff methods for plumbing a wall in one video….. When we use the furring strips, we call it “packing the wall” and is one of the methods use most; but can be time consuming though. Always a pleasure to watch your vids, have a good one ✌🏻
Fantastic video. Thank you for showing 3 different methods for getting walls straight. I'm rebuilding a shower for the first time and the studs are wonky. One is bowed with 1" of deflection in the middle. Unfortunately, being the newbie that I am, I didn't realize I needed to take care of this BEFORE the plumber installed the new tub. I'm going to have to get creative.
A year ago I flattened the walls in my 1945 home with a combination of furring strips, sister studs, planing/sanding, and swearing. The studs were outright wavy, and also diagonal braces (I don't think it's done any more in construction now) prevented full length sister studs. I can see how once you get your mud mix right, floating is easier.
Yeah it's uncommon to see diagonal bracing these days. If the house is going to have external wood sheathing like osb, that provides all the sheer strength that you need. If the house has vinyl siding and is in a warmer area, there may only be foam board beneath the siding and not a full layer of wood sheathing. Still in that case there should be 2 panels of OSB on the corners and that provides enough sheer strength. You will occasionally see diagonal bracing there, but its rare.
JUST finished my attempt at plumbing up a wall for a tub that will be tiled. Needless to say, I finished prior to this video coming out. Had I waited, this video would’ve simplified my plan, and would’ve netted far better results. Never seen a cardboard shim before this video, and in certain cases of my own install, really could’ve use the thinner material than my smallest wood shim that I had to cut myself. In some situations, my shim actually made most of the wall plumb, but where I needed something thinner, made it slightly out in those areas. I’m a capable diy’er, and love learning how professionals of their trade efficiently work through everyday troubles, and this video will be my 101 for plumbing up any wall I come across in the future. Thank you for showing all the methods, and plumbing options as well.
Air scrubber is great- but it’s also why I sucked up the cost and bought Festool. Their dust collection is second to none. Capture at the source rather than scrub the air. Much easier. Awesome videos, as always.
If the situation allows it- even cheaper to suck in clean outside air and just vent out dusty air. I use a 24" dia. collapsible duct and a box fan. If the room is isolated in the middle of the house, I use polysheet walls and a 30" x 30" furnace filter for the intake as well.
I would have f'ed up so bad if you didn't make these videos a few months ago. Shower I built came out awesome because of your videos. Can't tell u how much I appreciate this.
Issac i love your videos, theyve helped me up my game when tiling, i jut did my first successful drypack shower pan thanks to your videos and tips, customers are extremely happy
Just found this video. Have done a couple of bathroom remodels over the last several years and currently working on another, definitely an amateur. This video was very helpful, appreciate you for taking the time to do this. I was laid off in February and still looking for work. Been thinking about doing more bathroom remodels if the opportunity presents itself. If I do, hoping to use your wisdom in helping me to get better. Great video on all three methods! Blessings to you & your family!
Great video! Sistering studs is my go-to. Cutting inside the bathroom is also my go-to 😆always have a fan blowing out a window or the air scrubber in use 👌🏽🤙🏽
Great video my man. This was the one aspect of my last project that I felt didn’t turn out very well. Wish I had been better prepared. Now I’m all set to go for the next project. Thank you very much!
Love the video, sometimes you have to bust out the planer when the walls kick out out the bottom. I like the sister method, I don’t use the laser even though it’s a great idea/tool…I just plumb it and nail it…I also take my level and run it horizontal to make sure one stud isn’t farther out than the other. I haven’t seen any other video break down the various methods like this, so great.
Revolutionary video for me as I don't know what I'm doing and am about halfway thru this process. One of the issues I'm having is finding straight 2x4s at the stores to use for sistering haha. But the other two methods are great. Thank you
I do the same thing but I joint one edge in my shop on the jointer, since the average stud may be sort of straight, but I like them perfect. Makes tiling so much easier.
Hi coach. We’ve been metric in Canada since 1977. Guess what, we still buy 2x4’s and 4x8 sheets of plywood, doors are 30 inches, 32 inches, 36 inches wide and so on. Even in tiling, spacers are 1/16, 1/8 and 3/16 inches. I know what you mean though, it is an easier system. Some industries are just too involved to completely change over. Good luck with your quest but it’s not gonna happen there. Not in our lifetime anyway.
I redid one bathroom in our house and had to shim out one whole wall. In one bedroom I redid one stud was almost a full inch out. Ended up having to shave it down. I ended up drawing a plum line then using my skill saw to shave it down. If there is an easier way to shave the walls down it would be great to know. While the skill saw worked it was very difficult to do. By the way I am with you on using the metric system! So much easier. I 3D print a lot and it is all in metric. All my CAD drawings are metric. I have to go back and forth all the time, it is a pain. Also, I really enjoy watching your videos. You present very well and provide so much great knowledge! Thanks for all you do!
The easier way is to use a planer. i think generally it is easier to not plane down walls, but to furr out to the part of the wall that sticks out the most. Maybe plane sometimes if its just a small area sticking out extra.
Thanks for the tips! I'm renovating my kitchen, where all the walls had to be straightened before I could lay paint-ready fibreboard. Used sister studs in one of the corners, as the only possible solution, in combinations with horizontal battens.
TC makes it all look so easy, but in my experience, to get those results is far more difficult than it seems. I have experienced the same 2 issues, repeatedly, when sistering studs. 1. The original studs are not only out of plumb and crowned, but warped/twisted, so aligning the sister perfectly means next to nothing when it twists way out of position as soon as I attempt to fasten it 2. Using 3” fencing screws to fasten, almost always pulls the sister out of alignment just as soon as the threads bite into the original stud, especially when driving the screw in at an angle Considering that the new studs, even when carefully selected for straightness, are still almost never straight, and depending on where the screws are positioned, how they’re angled, and how the particular bends in the 2 boards interact with each other, sometimes I must drive and then remove a screw, and reposition it, drive it again, remove it again, etc, many times, before I end up with a plumb and fully fastened sister, in the same plane as the others. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, exactly, but I’m pretty sure it’s something because the amount of frustration and cussing involved in the process is noticeably more than in any RUclips video I’ve watched which demonstrates it. Maybe pre-drilling the holes might help reduce the impact of issue #2, but for now I’ll try wet shimming instead.
Very good video, would like to see more about getting walls plumb , square and on the same plane. Very few good videos addressing this issue. This video was very good.
I was dying when you said there's my sister nice and plum 😂... No but seriously thank you for your content you've taught me so much im do the sister a lot faster technic but im try ripping the 2x4 in half or 3rds if possible to not waste so much wood
The furring I did on the wall for my guest shower seemed a little extreme to me. I couldn't believe how out of square the wall was and I ended up with strips of 3/4 inch plywood at the top plate. But I'm so glad I put in the time to make it square. The tiles I put in were 24x48 inch. With tiles that size, you simply can't hide imperfections like you can with smaller tiles. My tiles went in outstanding and it looks professional.
Exactly the video I have been looking for, you're one of the best in the business, thank you. It would be real helpful to see transition approaches on newly shimmed walls to existing drywall.
Glad to see you back. For what ever reason you havent been popping up on my notifications. Not sure if they not pushing your videos or whats going on. inuse to get notified with no problems
Thank you for this video!!! I just installed an acrylic tub with a shower wall and it was a nightmare. I wish I would have seen this video first. It still looks decent but I had to make up a lot of the discrepancy with caulking.
Thank you so much for such a great cool video. It has answered so many questions I had on this subject. You have such a great way of presenting and providing informative and constructive detail, thank you!
Air scrubbers are fire flood mold equipment. That's where you can buy them but you can probably get the same result as far as dust with a fan, filter and same duct
Thanks for saying that about the metric system. I make sure all my tools have metric and inch reading on them. No reason you couldnt have used metric here except for fear of comments. I have a funny story about going into home depot to get glass cut for a 3D printer bed. The guy I asked refused to do it until i converted it to inches. People are not fans of change. I get it.
Great video. Side note: you should write to NIST to see if they write a standard to switch to the metric system. Engineering will listen to them. As an engineer, I wish we would switch.
I’ve got a dual unit tape. Inch on one side, mm on the other. For stuff like this where I don’t need to hit nominal dimensions (i.e. 3-1/2”, 1’6” etc) and the measurements are just for me, I switch to millimeters. They’re smaller than a sixteen (so I get forced into a slight accuracy boost) and it make math a lot easier! That’s how the change starts at least.
Bro’ I been watching u now for few week’s. U doing it man KuDO’s to u. i like in depth process & the reasoning & knowledge behind the methods especially when get into your technique with bladder n how to lay what 1st etc. I know u speaking about floating a wall her but im sayin in generally man - excellent man 🔥
I use the cardboard shims cut into 2” pieces. Lay out the wall like you did to find how much needs to be added. Hot glue the shims every 12” to make up what is needed. Before attaching wall board I’ll wet shim between each cardboard shim. That way I can permanently attach the wall board and not have to wait for thinset to harden. Great video!!!!
By wet shim do you basically mean you pack out the voids between each packing shim with tile adhesive that sets solid so the drywall sits on a completely flush surface all the way up and down?
Great video. Thank you! Agree about going metric...WAY easier. You can do it now. Best tool I've ever purchased is an 8M tape measure of Amazon (Komelon).
About the only thing stopping you from using metric in the US is the dimensions of sheet goods and insulation. They have to fit 40 cm or 60 cm stud spacing. In Europe, sheet goods are 120x240 cm. In the US, they’re 122x244 cm (4"x8"). I guess you could cut them if you really want. 40 cm c/c is probably close enough to 16" c/c that you can stuff the insulation batts in there :) 60 cm c/c is also pretty close to 24" c/c.
All you need are the top plate and bottom plate measurements set up your tack saw and cut. You will get perfectly straight cut, not possible with hand saw. Any bumps in middle of stud can easily be planed out with elec planner.
Just completed a DIY shower tile job reno in a basement bathroom and this was likely the most important video I watched to get the foundational framing corrected before laying backer board and tile. The existing framing was a nightmare and this was a huge help to get it right. Many thanks, the new tile job came out fantastic!
Metric is sooooo daamnnn much easier! I'm a USA military brat, lived in Germany and Italy during my dad's 22-yr career. Learned metric in my electrical engineering degree. Interesting note: every normal use metric socket in the world uses either a 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive socket wrench (there are larger imperial sizes for massive nut sizes)! I really wish the USA would switch over. All our cars are made in metric parts because the USA government decreed that they would no longer buy cars that weren't made in metric parts. The USA government is a big customer so of course auto manufacturers complied and just sold all cars that way.
I agree with transitioning to the metric system. That said, you could simplify your markings on your furring strip by just working in 16'ths, so instead of 1/2", just write an 8.
jeje... agree on metric system: so much easier... but nothing stops you to work internally with metric, measure and cut using it, and at the moment you need to purchase something, to convert to imperial system....
I want to start off by saying I love your channel a lot of great information is shared. I've been in the general contracting industry, commercial side for over 25 years. One of the things I like to see you discuss is vapor barriers and insulation before you start installing the walls for the shower surround?
Just lay the new stud against the existing, line it up with the laser line. Clamp it to the existing and run a pencil down the new stud to draw the profile of the existing onto the new. Then cut it. If you want to use metric measurements, just buy metric tapes and do it. I agree, metric is easier to use, so lead the way!
You are decent smart young guy with multiple talents, but most importantly you are the guy with high moral values. Always learn something new from you. Thank you!
You're totally right
Great to see someone take a little extra time to do it right.
Instead of measuring every stud, could do first stud, last stud, sister to them and then run a straight edge from edge to edge and fill in the middle studs bringing them out to touch the straight edge.
I've got to thank you for taking the time to explain every step without skipping so many nice parts. I like your videos. Thanks again
Nicely done. There is an easier way to scribe to the wave of the stud rather than measure and connect dots. Attach the new 2x temporarily with a screw on the top and bottom so its edge is perfectly on your laser line. Then find the distance that is furthest out of plumb. In this case it's 7/16. At that spot, measure 7/16 back on the 2x. Take your scribe, put the scribe point on the old stud, the pencil point on the 7/16 mark and then run it up and down and you have a perfect furring strip. Hope that makes sense.
I appreciate the grammar, spelling, and punctuation of this comment.
Im sister studding a shower in the a.m. This video and comment was very helpful; thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge Mr. Marke. And thanks for making the video Mr. Tile coach. I own a flooring business called The Flooring Fellas LLC in N.C. I’ve built my fair share of showers through my 8 years of business ownership, and still look for guys like you 2. To help with the pro tips even though I’ve been there before it pays to know you are always learning even when you know it all. But big thanks guys 🫡
Can I apply this same method but on a door entry wall??
Doesn’t this assume the stud isn’t warped?
If you’re going to the trouble of temp sistering your 2x, line it up to the finished position and just scribe along the existing stud to have the furring strip traced.
I've spent most of my 17 years working on 100+ year old homes. Lots of furring and sistering to plumb, level and square walls and ceilings. Steel studs are the answer, leaves more room for insulation, always straight and light weight. You can thank me later. 😀
Another trick to ripping the "furring" shim is to temporarily screw a 2x to the side of the existing stud (like your sister stud), scribe your line to the new board and cut the line, saves all that measuring.
Some good points here. But for the insulation, the thermal bridging of the steel studs effectively negates the benefit of the insulation between the studs.
@@scorpio6587 since you're almost always leaving the sister stud proud to the inside of the existing stud, there will be an air gap between the exterior sheathing and steel stud. If you're worried about it stick with steel on interior walls and shim your exterior walls.Double 2x4s with a rating of R-3.5 isn't very good either.
@@tobesskins That's right. The steel sister then passes heat to the stud, which is also a thermal bridge, and now has only a small distance left to cross. Of course you're right that it's irrelevant for interior walls. Indeed, the wood studs themselves are very poor insulators, but r-3.5 is much better than zero. The best solution is continuous exterior insulation, but that goes way beyond the scope of this bathroom remodel. I think Isaac's choice of method here, mostly furring, is sound.
Don't need a steel stud for shimming, just get a L bracket, saves money and is essentially as strong.
Frickin’ love this guy!! Not only a black belt in construction, but also a comedian. Love the Rayobi comment.
Appreciate your selflessness and honest approach in showing us the different ways to do the task. I have been following your knowledge-filled videos for years. I like the way you treat your client's homes. I am like you and never cut corners but always use my drop sheets to protect and show attention.
Great detailed instruction, sure these help a lot of other handymen, tilers, builders etc, thanks! One idea for sister studs: Get the 2x3's instead they will always fit. Keep up the good work, we all like to do things the right way and you are a big help!
Excellent tip!
Seven years ago I was searching everywhere for a video like this after an old timer told me to cut furring strips to plumb out studs around my bathtub. It was extremely overwhelming for me at that time but ended up doing exactly this with a laser line and cutting strips on my table saw. Thanks for sharing!
I’ve gone over to metric measurements for dimensions under a foot. I started by using a tape with metric and imperial marks. Then slowly adjusted to using metric. It’s SO much easier to calculate dimensions!👍
Anytime I do trim work I switch to my Milwaukee 8 meter tape. So much tighter tolerances.
Nonsense. 'Merica.
Just kidding. I know you're totally right.
Same here I switched to using metric more after watching scott browns carpentry. I literally told my self "hm this seems easier" and it was. I wish it was used more for calculations such as conduit bending, im trying to learn how to bend conduit to learn things in the union. Although I highly doubt they will let metric measurements slide even though the whole codebook is in metric.
Welcome to the 20th Century …. The rest of the world has been enjoying this simplicity for 50+ years
An easy way to operate within the imperial measurement system is to determine what your tolerance is and mark everything in that denomination. If you operate within 1/16th for your tolerance and measure 1/2 in, just write 8 on the wall. I measure everything to a 16th and write the numerator without reducing the fraction. Fast and accurate.
love the shout out to the metric system!!!! As a Canadian, I love working in metric
Great video. This helped with my nightmare bathroom remodel. You just got a new subscriber.
My house was built in the early 1900's and it was sort of a rebuild after a fire in the 60s but they kept most of the burnt wood and plastered over it. I've not had one "normal" try your best job. I'm working on my 3rd room now and I wish i watched your video sooner. Just wanted to say thank you. The studs aren't anything I've seen online everything is going sideways mostly and it looks like hand carved wood studs. Inches different in just a small area. You make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
TC listens people. He does! The most missed quality in us humans nowadays. I was one of those interested in air scrubber and TC delivered. And for all of those wanting more details that machine is Hepa-Aire PAS1200 and it runs for $2000 new. Great video TC. Thanks for sharing. And as always … We ❤️ You Back.
I remodeled my entire bathroom using your videos to build up the confidence. Relocated all plumbing, electrical, water, and walls. Please never stop creating new content
What a great video my man, full of amazing info. I was never really sure how to do this the best way but that laser idea really made it simple for me since i have one. Thanks a bunch
Well now I want and need an air scrubber!
Like i told StudPack, the Orange and Blue box store paint sticks are super free and great shims.. I always grab a handful of the 1gallon and 5 gallon sticks when i go to those stores!
Man I can’t thank you enough nobody has ever explained this so perfectly I’ve been looking for something like this for a very long time bro thank you I just subscribed
We can not thank you enough for all these great videos, the passion, and dedication, it really means a lot to us. Many Blessings to you and your family.
Thanks! Really enjoy your videos, they have saved me a lot of headaches. As far as converting to metric, it starts with each individual. Metric tape measures and other measuring tools are readily available now so converting to metric shouldn't be a problem. It comes down to making the choice.
Nice to see 3 diff methods for plumbing a wall in one video…..
When we use the furring strips, we call it “packing the wall” and is one of the methods use most; but can be time consuming though.
Always a pleasure to watch your vids, have a good one ✌🏻
Fantastic video. Thank you for showing 3 different methods for getting walls straight. I'm rebuilding a shower for the first time and the studs are wonky. One is bowed with 1" of deflection in the middle. Unfortunately, being the newbie that I am, I didn't realize I needed to take care of this BEFORE the plumber installed the new tub. I'm going to have to get creative.
A year ago I flattened the walls in my 1945 home with a combination of furring strips, sister studs, planing/sanding, and swearing. The studs were outright wavy, and also diagonal braces (I don't think it's done any more in construction now) prevented full length sister studs. I can see how once you get your mud mix right, floating is easier.
Yeah it's uncommon to see diagonal bracing these days. If the house is going to have external wood sheathing like osb, that provides all the sheer strength that you need. If the house has vinyl siding and is in a warmer area, there may only be foam board beneath the siding and not a full layer of wood sheathing. Still in that case there should be 2 panels of OSB on the corners and that provides enough sheer strength. You will occasionally see diagonal bracing there, but its rare.
JUST finished my attempt at plumbing up a wall for a tub that will be tiled. Needless to say, I finished prior to this video coming out. Had I waited, this video would’ve simplified my plan, and would’ve netted far better results. Never seen a cardboard shim before this video, and in certain cases of my own install, really could’ve use the thinner material than my smallest wood shim that I had to cut myself. In some situations, my shim actually made most of the wall plumb, but where I needed something thinner, made it slightly out in those areas. I’m a capable diy’er, and love learning how professionals of their trade efficiently work through everyday troubles, and this video will be my 101 for plumbing up any wall I come across in the future. Thank you for showing all the methods, and plumbing options as well.
When I did my shower last year, I used strips cut from 30 lb. felt to shim the walls out. It worked just like the cardboard shims you used here.
Air scrubber is great- but it’s also why I sucked up the cost and bought Festool. Their dust collection is second to none. Capture at the source rather than scrub the air. Much easier. Awesome videos, as always.
If the situation allows it- even cheaper to suck in clean outside air and just vent out dusty air. I use a 24" dia. collapsible duct and a box fan. If the room is isolated in the middle of the house, I use polysheet walls and a 30" x 30" furnace filter for the intake as well.
i have to remodel two bathrooms soon and this channel almost makes me look forward to doing it
Excellent. The paper shim was new to me
Great how-to video. You took all the mystery out of it.
Thanks for the video man! I like the way you break things down and show everything. And seem like a really nice and humble guy. Keep on rocking!
While I sometimes have different methods to get the same results as you, your videos are always well thought out and easy to understand.
I would have f'ed up so bad if you didn't make these videos a few months ago. Shower I built came out awesome because of your videos. Can't tell u how much I appreciate this.
Issac i love your videos, theyve helped me up my game when tiling, i jut did my first successful drypack shower pan thanks to your videos and tips, customers are extremely happy
Brother this is exactly what I needed to see. Your the only one that explain this well.
Just found this video. Have done a couple of bathroom remodels over the last several years and currently working on another, definitely an amateur. This video was very helpful, appreciate you for taking the time to do this. I was laid off in February and still looking for work. Been thinking about doing more bathroom remodels if the opportunity presents itself. If I do, hoping to use your wisdom in helping me to get better. Great video on all three methods! Blessings to you & your family!
Great video bro. Best tutorial I found on RUclips for getting existing studs plumb and straight. Thanks.
Sheesh, that is genius. Thanks for the tips! Seems like a great way to make walls plumb!
Great video! Sistering studs is my go-to. Cutting inside the bathroom is also my go-to 😆always have a fan blowing out a window or the air scrubber in use 👌🏽🤙🏽
Great video my man. This was the one aspect of my last project that I felt didn’t turn out very well. Wish I had been better prepared. Now I’m all set to go for the next project. Thank you very much!
Don't know if anyone's said it yet, but you've got alot of sisters, brother!
Love the video, sometimes you have to bust out the planer when the walls kick out out the bottom. I like the sister method, I don’t use the laser even though it’s a great idea/tool…I just plumb it and nail it…I also take my level and run it horizontal to make sure one stud isn’t farther out than the other. I haven’t seen any other video break down the various methods like this, so great.
Great tip!
Thanks brother I appreciate everything you do I’m 26 turn 27 thanks to your videos I was able to make an extra 20k this year thank you!!
Revolutionary video for me as I don't know what I'm doing and am about halfway thru this process. One of the issues I'm having is finding straight 2x4s at the stores to use for sistering haha. But the other two methods are great. Thank you
Nice work and advice mate. Thank you. I tend to "sister" most of the time, and only if the wall studs are out.
I do the same thing but I joint one edge in my shop on the jointer, since the average stud may be sort of straight, but I like them perfect. Makes tiling so much easier.
Hi coach. We’ve been metric in Canada since 1977. Guess what, we still buy 2x4’s and 4x8 sheets of plywood, doors are 30 inches, 32 inches, 36 inches wide and so on. Even in tiling, spacers are 1/16, 1/8 and 3/16 inches. I know what you mean though, it is an easier system. Some industries are just too involved to completely change over. Good luck with your quest but it’s not gonna happen there. Not in our lifetime anyway.
I redid one bathroom in our house and had to shim out one whole wall. In one bedroom I redid one stud was almost a full inch out. Ended up having to shave it down. I ended up drawing a plum line then using my skill saw to shave it down. If there is an easier way to shave the walls down it would be great to know. While the skill saw worked it was very difficult to do.
By the way I am with you on using the metric system! So much easier. I 3D print a lot and it is all in metric. All my CAD drawings are metric. I have to go back and forth all the time, it is a pain.
Also, I really enjoy watching your videos. You present very well and provide so much great knowledge! Thanks for all you do!
The easier way is to use a planer.
i think generally it is easier to not plane down walls, but to furr out to the part of the wall that sticks out the most. Maybe plane sometimes if its just a small area sticking out extra.
Learning every video bro! Tile isn’t my specialty, but I love building and your tips and tricks definitely help!
Thanks for the tips! I'm renovating my kitchen, where all the walls had to be straightened before I could lay paint-ready fibreboard. Used sister studs in one of the corners, as the only possible solution, in combinations with horizontal battens.
TC makes it all look so easy, but in my experience, to get those results is far more difficult than it seems.
I have experienced the same 2 issues, repeatedly, when sistering studs.
1. The original studs are not only out of plumb and crowned, but warped/twisted, so aligning the sister perfectly means next to nothing when it twists way out of position as soon as I attempt to fasten it
2. Using 3” fencing screws to fasten, almost always pulls the sister out of alignment just as soon as the threads bite into the original stud, especially when driving the screw in at an angle
Considering that the new studs, even when carefully selected for straightness, are still almost never straight, and depending on where the screws are positioned, how they’re angled, and how the particular bends in the 2 boards interact with each other, sometimes I must drive and then remove a screw, and reposition it, drive it again, remove it again, etc, many times, before I end up with a plumb and fully fastened sister, in the same plane as the others. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, exactly, but I’m pretty sure it’s something because the amount of frustration and cussing involved in the process is noticeably more than in any RUclips video I’ve watched which demonstrates it.
Maybe pre-drilling the holes might help reduce the impact of issue #2, but for now I’ll try wet shimming instead.
Very good video, would like to see more about getting walls plumb , square and on the same plane. Very few good videos addressing this issue. This video was very good.
I was dying when you said there's my sister nice and plum 😂... No but seriously thank you for your content you've taught me so much im do the sister a lot faster technic but im try ripping the 2x4 in half or 3rds if possible to not waste so much wood
Thank you so much- that was well done. Helped me a ton.
The furring I did on the wall for my guest shower seemed a little extreme to me. I couldn't believe how out of square the wall was and I ended up with strips of 3/4 inch plywood at the top plate. But I'm so glad I put in the time to make it square. The tiles I put in were 24x48 inch. With tiles that size, you simply can't hide imperfections like you can with smaller tiles. My tiles went in outstanding and it looks professional.
Great vid mate! Exactly what I was looking for. You have all the different techniques in one easy to follow video. Thank you!
Exactly the video I have been looking for, you're one of the best in the business, thank you.
It would be real helpful to see transition approaches on newly shimmed walls to existing drywall.
Thank you very much for showing the methods! It definitely helps my own project that I’ve been working on. Thank you!
That's awesome, i learned a lot. I just bought a fixer upper in SoCal and I'm going to gut the whole house. Gonna be looking forward to your videos.
Glad to see you back. For what ever reason you havent been popping up on my notifications. Not sure if they not pushing your videos or whats going on. inuse to get notified with no problems
Whoever tears that shower out next is going to be like what the hell was this guy doing
great job. I am redoing my master bathroom, which I have never done
You always show/teach me something new in every video, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Love your content bro keep it up.
I really agree about the metric system problem.
Awesome! these techniques will apply to my 100 year kitchen drywall too
Thank you for this video!!! I just installed an acrylic tub with a shower wall and it was a nightmare. I wish I would have seen this video first. It still looks decent but I had to make up a lot of the discrepancy with caulking.
Thank you so much for such a great cool video. It has answered so many questions I had on this subject. You have such a great way of presenting and providing informative and constructive detail, thank you!
Air scrubbers are fire flood mold equipment. That's where you can buy them but you can probably get the same result as far as dust with a fan, filter and same duct
You just earned a new subscriber ! Great information man !!
Thanks
Thanks for saying that about the metric system. I make sure all my tools have metric and inch reading on them. No reason you couldnt have used metric here except for fear of comments. I have a funny story about going into home depot to get glass cut for a 3D printer bed. The guy I asked refused to do it until i converted it to inches. People are not fans of change. I get it.
Great video.
Side note: you should write to NIST to see if they write a standard to switch to the metric system. Engineering will listen to them. As an engineer, I wish we would switch.
I’ve got a dual unit tape. Inch on one side, mm on the other. For stuff like this where I don’t need to hit nominal dimensions (i.e. 3-1/2”, 1’6” etc) and the measurements are just for me, I switch to millimeters. They’re smaller than a sixteen (so I get forced into a slight accuracy boost) and it make math a lot easier! That’s how the change starts at least.
Bro’ I been watching u now for few week’s. U doing it man KuDO’s to u. i like in depth process & the reasoning & knowledge behind the methods especially when get into your technique with bladder n how to lay what 1st etc. I know u speaking about floating a wall her but im sayin in generally man - excellent man 🔥
Big family, alot of sisters....
As always extremely helpful and great techniques on display. Thanks again!
I use the cardboard shims cut into 2” pieces. Lay out the wall like you did to find how much needs to be added. Hot glue the shims every 12” to make up what is needed. Before attaching wall board I’ll wet shim between each cardboard shim. That way I can permanently attach the wall board and not have to wait for thinset to harden. Great video!!!!
Also let’s go metric!!! I think I’ll order a few metric tapes and give it a go!!!
By wet shim do you basically mean you pack out the voids between each packing shim with tile adhesive that sets solid so the drywall sits on a completely flush surface all the way up and down?
That’s correct! 👍🏼
What do you do when you transition from a wall that you plumbed to the non tile wall that is in the same plain?
a transition piece
In my case if the difference is too noticable I get a drywall guy to float the wall. That's happening a lot in newer houses.
Drywall mud
Just put a couple hundred layers of paint and that might do the trick! 🎉
New followed I like the approaches you take to the these challenges, very smart and Professional. Thanks for video
Great video. Thank you! Agree about going metric...WAY easier. You can do it now. Best tool I've ever purchased is an 8M tape measure of Amazon (Komelon).
About the only thing stopping you from using metric in the US is the dimensions of sheet goods and insulation. They have to fit 40 cm or 60 cm stud spacing. In Europe, sheet goods are 120x240 cm. In the US, they’re 122x244 cm (4"x8"). I guess you could cut them if you really want. 40 cm c/c is probably close enough to 16" c/c that you can stuff the insulation batts in there :) 60 cm c/c is also pretty close to 24" c/c.
All you need are the top plate and bottom plate measurements set up your tack saw and cut. You will get perfectly straight cut, not possible with hand saw.
Any bumps in middle of stud can easily be planed out with elec planner.
What you need is a metric/standard fastcap pro carpenter tape measure you can mess with all the boys and have a sharp pencil
Just completed a DIY shower tile job reno in a basement bathroom and this was likely the most important video I watched to get the foundational framing corrected before laying backer board and tile. The existing framing was a nightmare and this was a huge help to get it right. Many thanks, the new tile job came out fantastic!
Cool video
At the end of the day would u rather do this or still float?
I know ur probably gonna say float lol
Thanks again for the videos brother!
Metric is sooooo daamnnn much easier! I'm a USA military brat, lived in Germany and Italy during my dad's 22-yr career. Learned metric in my electrical engineering degree. Interesting note: every normal use metric socket in the world uses either a 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive socket wrench (there are larger imperial sizes for massive nut sizes)! I really wish the USA would switch over. All our cars are made in metric parts because the USA government decreed that they would no longer buy cars that weren't made in metric parts. The USA government is a big customer so of course auto manufacturers complied and just sold all cars that way.
framing nailer works great for drywall shims
I agree with transitioning to the metric system. That said, you could simplify your markings on your furring strip by just working in 16'ths, so instead of 1/2", just write an 8.
This is how I been doing it for 15yrs.
It usually takes me 15min. To and hour if is a big Shower and is really bad.
time well spent
Did you mention that the sister stud has to be dead on straight?
yeah, bring your 6 foot level to the lumber yard and pick good ones lol
Cut a straight edge on one side of the tubafor, not using the whole thing anyway.
jeje... agree on metric system: so much easier... but nothing stops you to work internally with metric, measure and cut using it, and at the moment you need to purchase something, to convert to imperial system....
Steel studs are the way to go..the wood at home depot goes bad.
I find myself using wood glue and blocking to keep them straight
so clear and well described - learned a lot out of it. Thank you.
Great vid coach! I pretty much only use drywall shims. Or you could just float it and not worry about shimming!
i used drywall shims but sistering is faster. good tip
I want to start off by saying I love your channel a lot of great information is shared. I've been in the general contracting industry, commercial side for over 25 years. One of the things I like to see you discuss is vapor barriers and insulation before you start installing the walls for the shower surround?
Best video I found on this
Just lay the new stud against the existing, line it up with the laser line. Clamp it to the existing and run a pencil down the new stud to draw the profile of the existing onto the new. Then cut it.
If you want to use metric measurements, just buy metric tapes and do it. I agree, metric is easier to use, so lead the way!
I used the long contractor shims and basically got the same thing accomplished with a little more work lol
This video was so helpful!! Thank you! 😊
Definitely should go Metric 🙌. (Kody from Australia)
If you work in an old, old house the 2x4's are actually 2 inches by 4 inches.
I have a stud that is probably about 30 degrees twisted, it's insane.