How to Straighten a Wall For Plasterboard
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2018
- A simple block and string line trick for getting straight walls. This technique is used quite often in carpentry so it's a good one to know! Timber can be unpredictable!
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I had no reason to watch this video, I have no wall to straighten but it was, nevertheless, interesting and entertaining.
Watched this 5 years ago and yesterday was the first time I had to use this building a custom staircase. My boss didn't think it would work. We'll it did and all credit went to scott!!!!!
I'm not a carpenter, but I played with wood for 50 years. Being able to move a stud like that is nice trick. Well done.
I use this method, one thing I'd love to add... the end studs you placed your blocks and string lines from need to be checked first, if they aren't straight your actually replicating the curve in the frame and imitating that curve through the wall. Might come out straight through the centre line of the wall however you may be copying the curve of the first at last studs.
The end studs are shot into a wall if done properly they should already be straight
@@caleb3470 Yes, but that is straight on a different axis. It the board is bowed along the narrow edge, no amount of nailing is going to straighten it.
If that wall doesn’t support a load or has any structural integrity then what he did was just fine. So many haters with little knowledge. Easy to be a know it all on the internet.. Great work man keep it up!
The blue sheeting he put on (Brace line) provides the structural integrity. The only loading the lumber takes is vertical loading from the top, so it is fine for up to 1/3 of studs in a structural wall to be treated this way
Not in America. If the project is being inspected their is no way an inspector is going to pass that framing with studs chopped almost in half lol.
@@bernardthedon3483 , but that's in America and not New Zealand ;) This type of adjustment doesn't hinder or harm the structural integrity of the building when carried out within Building Regulations.
BernardTheDon Hardly chopped in half...If anything by sistering the ‘chopped’ studs they are equally if not stronger than before. Besides it’s just a partition wall...
@@bernardthedon3483 American building is trash. You obviously dont straighten walls
I found a few cuts in my old wall (during my reno)and thought...idiots to myself.
Now I know better....thanks guys
No you were right. Idiots. You don’t cut studs. You plane or pack. And when you make the wall you place studs with all bends the same way
I'm a tiler and with hand on my heart I rarely tile a 'straight' wall be it plasterboard, plaster or any other material. I do accept that sometimes, (sometimes!) the fact that a stud wall is not straight or flat is down to bent timber. However, I do follow on from other 'trades' that don't know what a straight edge is let alone use one. Nice video guys.
Wow, I have never in my days seen this being done to a newly framed wall. Kudos' to you my friend.
Hahahaha
Great job.
I normally end up skimming the walls I build so the time it takes to straighten them will be made up and more in the skimming.
Your plasterers much love you!
To help alleviate this situation you need to ensure that when the studs are nailed into place, that their bow, if any, are all facing in the same direction.
And no heartwood (bullseyes)they wander like a drunkin hobo…
Great trick! Specially if you're paid by the hour.
Excellent tip! Never seen this method before! Thank you!
To those saying buy straight lumber- wood will move on its own do to weather. Humidity, dryness and so on. So it’s not always that easy and especially if your framing stands alone for a period of time during a remodel. Also this is a great way to complete this task but it’s not time efficient. I’m a carpenter and when we finish framing a house we have to shim and shave the walls and windows. We use a planer, cardboard shims and a 6 foot level. Plane down the side that’s bowed out from the wall and fill gap with shims on the other side. If the stud is that bad we replace it.
Yup. This also allows for adjustments where the bow isn't consistent, where method like this cut-and-brace method would result in other parts of the stud being off.
Glyn Owen you’re not lying about that!
Over here people almost exclusively use a stud made the same way plywood is made, 2x3 or 2x4 in size. Stays perfect straight, don't know why it's in use everywhere
For sure
Henrik Rönn how much does one of these studs cost a piece?
Great tip. I never realized you could do this. Thanks for posting
Always love to see the problem solving on this. If is important to have straight walls if you want a high gloss finish on the walls. Also important for mounting large sections of granite and the like.
I've been a carpenter for 18 years and never saw that trick before. definitely going to use that one! good video mate, thanks for sharing.
Wow youre an amatuer, thanks for sharing.
Absolutely fantastic tip. Brilliant. Thanks for sharing:-)
I am English and I love Flitch and Chips
Why did not he use the lasser? Because with that you can really do it without all this trouble?
That's fush n chups
Obviously on hourly rate. 😂
I haven't had Flitch and Chips in a while, great now I'm hungry..
@@democracyforall
Oops, the timber is bowed
Very cool trick. I would have never thought of that. I appreciate good attention to detail when the job calls for it.
I am not going to lie, I thought after doing construction for so long, thought this video was useless, little did I knew I would learn something new, Good job we should always stay student, always and have the openness to learn something new. I know I did. Good video.
Great video, good lesson to learn. Thanks.
It's a fish plate. A flitch plate is a steel plate that's sandwiched between two pieces of wood to strengthen it like forming a long beam. A fish plate is a metal or wood piece that's attached as a slab on the side of a wood joint to join them together. The term fish plate comes actually comes from laying railroad track. It's the piece of steel that's attached to 2 tracks to extend their length.
I’ll be starting construction on my new home soon and was talking with my cousin, a retired builder of 30 years, how important it is to have straight studs, especially where counters and cabinets will be installed. He told me that his framers would check all the studs and put cuts in some just as you did, except that they would drive screws into the cuts before nailing on the flitch plates. I think the wood shims are even better. It was great to see how this is done. Enjoyed this video very much.
I did a carpentry course at unitec, and I understood that a plate used for strengthening and stability was a fish plate or cleat, which is attached to a stud, and a flitch plate was used a form of nogging between two parallel members to give these members or beams rigidity.
I've done plenty of framing and never seen that method of straightening.
Absolutely brilliant!
To the nay Sayers, that act of reinforcing on both sides with a sister, reestablishes the structural integrity. That 40mil cut won't affect anything.
And like 8bitsim said, " if you want straight, use metal studs.
(But that's not for sure either). Nothing is perfect, after all.
TII
This is a terrible method. Using a planer and packets is atleast 3 times faster and simpler...one tool.
In all my years of joinery and carpentry I've never seen anyone do this.
I've never known this be done in the UK either, and 3x2 is all shapes, no one on price has time for this
I like it though
Same
@snipe69 built my own home 3 years ago, this is exactly how I straightened my walls. I live in the USA
Obviously his own house 😂
I would have never thought about checking the hall to see it it’s all plumb. I usually pick out pretty straight wood tho but wow this is a really nice trick. Your awesome.
Man, you save my house in build process!!! Great video!
cabinet and granite guys are gonna love installing in that home! 🔥🔥
In rail terminology, a fishplate, splice bar or joint bar is a metal bar that is bolted to the ends of two rails to join them together in a track. The name is derived from fish, a wooden bar with a curved profile used to strengthen a ship's mast.[1]
it's a flitch beam.
A flitch beam is something completely different, where you have a strong reinforcing steel layer in between layers of wood. The reinforcement spans the full length of the beam and isn't used to join segments end to end.
A flitch beam (or flitched beam) is a compound beam used in the construction of houses, decks, and other primarily wood-frame structures. Typically, the flitch beam is made up of a vertical steel plate sandwiched between two wood beams, the three layers being held together with bolts. In that common form it is sometimes referenced as a steel flitch beam. Further alternating layers of wood and steel can be used to produce an even stronger beam. The metal plate(s) within the beam are known as flitch plates.[1]
In the states we call it a scab. Lol
@@erowidoz It's a fishplate (or cleat) Flitch is sandwiched between 2 other members of different material.
What an awesome technique! Love it
Hi fellas,,I’ve worked in construction for 58 years,!,,BUT,,today I learned something new,!😀,,well done guys, from a really old geezer in the uk,👍💨👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🇬🇧
First day doing reno at my first home. Ran into exact same issue as the gib wall had clearly visible kinks so we ripped it out and checked the studs. Studs were all over the place. Thanks for the content. Very helpful!
The "fish plate" we call a cleat in Australia. Great video Scotty.
"flitch" plate
Always loving new ways I haven’t seen before , thanks
This is fantastic guys, thanks for sharing indeed!
A flitch plate is a (usually steel) plate bolted between two 2x12's or other header material to give more strength than the lumber can on it's own. The reinforcements that you are putting on the studs to span the cuts, I've always called gussets.
Good video. In US, we use 16" on center and also the drywall is on its long side, so it attaches to more studs.
That's becoming more common in NZ where this was filmed too. Most Drywall is installed on it's side here, as it reduces the amount of plastering
@@paulrawlinson8653 thanks I have been trying to figure out in all his videos why the framing was so spaced out and why it had horizontal pieces as well. Never would have thought it's just to save time on drywall mud!
Bloody awesome its really buzzy seeing these kind of videos just pure skills and knowledge
If it works and is an acceptable method, perfect.
I used to do this, but more often nowadays, il use a 2nd piece (flitch plate!) as long as possible, nail it to one end of the stud with it protruding out from the other end.
Then it's just a matter of pulling on it to straighten the stud and nailing in place. Hit it with a Planer if necessary, job done. Also helps to reinforce the crooked stud.
Nice work bro. Ka pai tō mahi.
We use this same trick on aircraft wings.
😲
Same. I'd watch it again too!
Wish I didn’t know that.
Model airplanes i hope
What aircraft?
That brings me so much joy when you straighten that wall up. I wish all framers in the us did that. Trying to do finish work on messed up walls isn’t fun
It's the 'not my job' mentality of working on a building site.
For real? I'm a carpenter in Australia and we do the entire job from frame to hand over. This way is slow and complicated. In Australia this is called straightening the walls and is part of the 'lock up' stage and not framing. I try to get it as close to perfect as possible.
@@MrDeano-eu9rg Trust me it's even worse if it's a Friday and people are waiting to clock off. You get wires and pipes in the middle of no where. Doors that won't open cos they hung them the wrong way..
Thing is from the time the framers leave till the time drywall is hung and is ready for the finish work the walls are not going to be the same ... even if the framer does straighten it out....
@@allynloring6095 only of its left in the rain or really strange weather. The walls in my country don't get straightened until the roof is on and the cladding is done.
I've heard of a Flitch Beam which I guess is what you Guys are constructing as long as it works & you know what it is! Great Work, Well Done!
Thx u so much for this. I honestly never knew this and here i am looking at every single 2x4 i bought making sure its straight.
Keep checking the 2*4s. That's the proper way. This guy is a jackass. You DONT cut studs. You can only damage 1/3 of what you install. That's allowed for the electricians and plumbers. There is no allotment for that unless you're dropping studs 12 inches on center. I assume you're going 14 on center or 16 set ahead.
Your strengthening plates are "Fish Plates" a metal or wooden plate or slab, bolted to each of two members that have been butted or lapped together.
Your "Flitch Plate" is a steel plate or girder between two wooden beams, like a middle/3rd beam in a special truss, to give vertical rigidity, whilst the wooden beams alongside it keep the flitch plate from flapping around like a fish.
Correct. The metal plates bolted either side of railway lines to join 2 together are also called fish plates.
This is called a fish plate. The better way is to use a crowned full stud and turn the crown opposite. I nail top and bottom and then use hand clamp to squeeze the two studs into alignment with each other in the middle and then nail fully together. Needs to be done prior to electrical/plumbing. This will usually take the bow out and can be done on bearing walls. You can do (and I have done) as suggested with non bearing although I usually add a full height straight stud rather than just a partial fish plate. You don't want to do to many studs adjacent or it will weaken the wall significantly. If it's really bad you need to cut out and replace the studs with new straight studs. If you are getting too many bad studs, then get a new source. Also, it only takes a minute or two to crown all the studs first to keep the wave out. A bowed wall without a wave usually looks pretty good. P.S. A flitch plate, as others have commented, is steel and wood combined.
Yep, the name is from the strengthening plate in a ship's mast. Funny the other unintentional puns that appear when the nautical theme is revealed - bow, wave, bearing, crown, beam, studding...
A "fish" plate is more typically used in welding when fixing an I beam frame and does resemble the tail of a fish. A fitch plate is more commonly used in carpentry but is usually made of steel.
Using a full stud uses more wood. Many frames are supplied complete like this, so you are working with what you've been supplied. HOwever, Scott has gone OTT doing this for a 2 mm deviation. Generally you're only going to do this with 5mm + deviation.
Nice tip. You make it look easy and I bet it actually is. Thanks.
Its a non bearing partition wall. Its only purpose is to divide the room. Im pretty sure he plumb the end 2x4 using a level. Looks good from my house. Thanks for the tips!
Congrats on passing inspection👍
1. I call them fish plates here in Australia.
2. Grade and sight your studs as you cut and install them. Cut the very worst lengths up for blocks/noggings.
After that I always use the worst 2 studs on the very ends of the wall, that way you can pull the middle of the stud straight as you nail them off against the adjoining wall.
If you install all the studs with the spring/bow in the same direction, you will rarely have to cripple them to straighten them. Not many people will notice a 3mm bow in a 2.4 long stud by eye - especially once the plasterboard has been installed.
3. Why use 90x45 framing for an internal wall? Seems overkill. 70x45 is generally more that adequate for 2.4m high internal wall frames.
Pretty sure thats the standard size in nz from memory
@@garethryder1144 ASNZ standards
@Deanoss Last
Yes I'm for real, worked for multiple companies that use 70x45 for internal wall frames. (All engineer designed of course).
Why throw money away on 90mm internal wall framing unnecessarily?
And what is exactly tedious about sighting your timber as you pick it up? Using my eyes before I install a stud saves me having to even get my planer out to straighten the wall.
If you have to get your planer out to straighten a newly built wall, then you shouldn't even call yourself a chippy. 😂
@Deanoss Last
I don't know what part of Australia you live in, but 90mm internal frames are not very common in my 20+ years in residential construction.
Considering 90% of modern homes have truss a roof, the internal frames are only non load bearing partition walls. So framing them in 90mm is a complete waste of money and materials. Also I'm curious, how is installing a door jamb in a 70mm frame and different from installing in a 90mm frame?
@Deanoss Last
Maybe different code down there?
Been building in Sydney my entire life, 70mm walls are common here. Even seen a few external walls 70mm with 600mm stud spacing (definitely wouldn't be doing that one in my own home though).
Crowning studs when building a wall ensures if there is any bow in the timber they all run the same way.
Dan Giles mark a c on the stud in the direction of the crown??
cutting the studs like that make for a very weak wall. do it right with the crowns all one way. do it right or do not waste your time.
Strength would matter only if it's structural. This wall is not so it doesn't matter.
He said at the beginning that the wood was straight when they installed it a few days before
A good stud wall must be crowned or in Scottish terms "roonds all facing same way, which is done prior to fixing looking down length and looking at growth rings on end telling you how it will twist" on building it and you can straighten with eye through the studs to fix any issues as eyeing can fix most issues that are slight. As my old journeyman told me if it looks right by eye its right. Select your timber eradicates all plumb issues in the first place build with crap get crap.
Thanks for taking the time and posting a video. Haters gonna hate...Keep doing what you are doing.
here in the northeast USA, I have never seen this done except on a bathroom wall stud in house built in late 1800s-early 1900s. when i saw it I giggled, thats a neat little trick these old timers did! never seen it again until your video
Its a flitch. used in many different ways. just an added layer to give strength where larger timbers can not be used. We use them a lot in the UK for floor and roof joists when head height is a problem. we can change an 8x2 floor joists to a 4x2 floor joist when adding a flitch plate to the side. normally a 10mm steel plate bolted along side, full length, to give it the same structural detail as the 8x2 and gaining 100mm of head height in a conversion project.
I call them timber gusset plates or flitch plates, prefer to run my eye down the studs first before constructing the frame so they all bow the same way, perhaps u put them alternate for strength when using this method?
I use the same method as you saves alot of messing around also no need for cuts on every timber as every second or third stud will pull the wall within building regulations
Great video it's nice to see someone who cares about their work. Nice job.
Very nice, I learned something new. Thanks
Wow Scott there certainly some “professional” commentary on this video, probably most of it from abroad.
For those of you experts not in NZ the Radiata Pine we use for the majority of our building grows extremely fast, a lot of it is harvested is 25 years and a lot is grown in pretty crap areas on sides of hills that a goat would find hard work. As such there’s a lot of tension in some of the timber and the rapid growth make it prone to distortion during drying, because of this the grade rules are perhaps a bit more lenient than in some countries because otherwise there would be no recovery but the allowable distortion in the grade rules should be such that it can be straightened with methods such as that shown.
I’m not sure on the argument to put them crook all one way as that would put all the tension in the wall in one direction?
We just use LvL exclusively - no straightening required
Yes it’s called crowning the studs. We do it here in Canada and it works very well.
@@sundog8772 Chatting to a Canadan tree planter she mentioned pine in NZ grows faster than in Canada
@@Albertouy Right, this was mentioned in the above comment to which I responded. I was referring to the installation of studs with the crown facing outwards to avoid a wavy effect. It’s common practice here in Canada.
Flitch plates are typically steel plates used to strengthen wood beam members so in this stud straightening exercise the use of the plywood plate serves a similar purpose, adding strength and integrity to the stud.
A fish plate does a similar job but is steel/wrought iron and used to join railway tracks, however modern railway tracks have longer sections with spring clips.
Nope, a fish plate is your lunch or tea, normally served with chips
Nice you guys frame at a different level
I seen most guys just skim coat the wall , till they are straight
Very clever gentlemen!!! I've never seen that done before.
If you want a straight wall use metal studwork
Agree with metal studs. Some people have started using LSL now as well
@@pauln6335 what's LSL?
LSL = Laminated strand lumber, LVL = laminated veneer lumber. Both used traditionally as beams, but now are getting used as framing lumber for jobs where straight framing is a must.
@@fordrac1ng81 Ah, got you!!! Here in the UK we normally call it gluelam!!!! Didn't realise they did it as small as 100 x 50mm.
Mitch King not to mention carbon sequestration!
Crown all stud up while lying on the floor when building the wall ,that way you will be able to see each stud beforehand so that you can eliminate bad studs from your pile of studs and put them in a separate pile for other use. This will help in keeping your walls as straight as possible without going through alot of trouble. Just my way not the only way. Nice video will help .
Came to say this. My first job as a framer was hauling lumber. When it came time for me to lay out walls for a nailer if I hadn't already culled every single stick I would catch them in the face. You're only going to eat so many 2*4s before you learn to build a straight/flush wall. This is a waste of time and money.
@@justinbennett9998
Well we don’t all live we’re you do
A lot of places get prefab walls and roof trusses ie the whole frame gets built in a facility then delivered to site might get left out in the weather for a week if delivered in winter
Then you stand the frame up according to a frame trust plan.
You must straighten the wall’s when building a house like this otherwise you’d have dark shadows in your walls 😂😂 from all the hollows
So educational. Thank you very much.
Wow interesting I learn something new . If I ever run into this problem. Ivan do this to one or two stud but not entire wall . Knowing me if I had more then 3 I probably be quicker to just replace the studs . But I like new ideas . Good vid . I ran into this problem once one stud was off I had no more to replace . This is go great idea to for a quick fix .
Framers used to straighten walls years ago, but I havent seen this lately, I wish they still did though, we do use fingerjoint studs which are a tad straighter than traditional studs
JohnnyBDyer we still crown our studs, wood tends to bend over time anyways. A wall is straight when we put it up, but over time the studs bend over time
I used to work on a framing clean up crew that made sure the walls were straight for the cabinets and such. We used strong backs on big humps and planers to take out little ones on walls before stucco or drywall. We followed the production framers and they were working piece rate. We were hourly and cared a lot more about our end product. In California Desert you could hear the lumber creaking at night as it cooled down.
Finger joined is just a fancy way to use firewood.
That was really interesting. I've put up walls i n USA, California, and we do it completely differently. Te studs are closer (16", or 40.6 cm), not as many horizontal joists, and we tend to hang the sheet rock horizontally rather than vertically. We DO (or are at least are supposed to) leave a bit of space at the bottom as I noticed you did.
I prefer to place my sheets horizontal as well. They could get that one wall done with two long horizontal sheets. Not heaps of verticals. Can go either direction here in New Zealand 🇳🇿
Exactly the same is Aussie mate! We usually do 17 inch stud centres. Cheers 🍻
I have never seen, let alone heard, of this but I've checked a few other sites. This should save time. Thanks for sharing
I have worked in the construction industry all my life starting out as a carpenter, I'm late 50's now. Never once did I do anything like this but that is not to diss it. It sure would make fitting kitchens a lot easier and would save scribing work tops, but for general wall partitions it seems a waste of time when you are on a price or on bonus during site work. In a lot of cases fitting the paster board would pull it straight in most cases and by the time the plasterer has finished who can tell or gives a rip anyway? Then there is the shrinkage of the timber as the property dries out. Having said all that, it is a good technique and I applaud these guys. :)
my dad called them a "scab" when he was a framer. Like a scab covers a wound.
same
We call em band- aids haha for the same reason.
Thats what we called it in carpenters union in Chicago.
ya it's a scab right? Flitch plates are metal and sandwich with scabs Ithink
I have to remark that the general quality of your lumber seems pretty good. Maybe I'm just imagining it, but it also looks like you have actual "2×4" studs. Our lumber companies have been selling us Americans "nominal" 2×4s for a long time. The only actual actual 2x4s I find are in 100 year old buildings.
Depend where u live i quess.
Those studs are gauged ex 2 x 4, they end up as 90mm x 45mm (3-9/16" x 1-3/4") Most of our older houses (70 yrs +) have roughsawn 4 x 2 framing
Scott thanks
I'm leaning from you a lesson to trait up a hooden wall frame
Thanks friend
God bless
Very good. May come in handy in the future. Thanks.
Why is the lumber dyed pink? Does it denote a rating such as structural/fire retardant, treated etc? Never seen that in the US.
Good stuff.
I had a go at answering that in this video ruclips.net/video/OkKO5m8jipc/видео.html it's basically color coding for borer/fungi timber treatments. Our basic grade of timber, the minimum allowed in a house, is almost always pink.
Scott Brown Carpentry got it! 👍
The pink color means its fire rated....
You must've typed that answer with your cellphone, because it "auto corrected" colour to the American spelling!
It's a by product of the treatment it received. The wood for interior framing is lightly treated and the stuff used (boron, usually) leaves it pink. As you go to grades rated for exterior use and submersion you'll see it change colour to green due to the different (copper, boron, and cyanide) chemicals used.
www.nztpc.co.nz/hazardClassDescription.php
I take it technique is only used on non load bearing walls.
In Australia you can do it on up to 20% of the studs in a house. Load bearing walls can be crippled. The plates and nails take all of the compression load.
The code is 50% max cut(45mm). Reinforced by 42 x 20 x 600 long on each side with (4) 50mm framing nails per side. In ft/inch cut half way thru a 2 x 4, reinforce it with 3/4” x 2” x 2’ on each side with (4) 2” nails per side.You can cripple any stud in an AU house except for the obvious one(openings, high load, or multiples in a row on a load bearing wall) It’s described with diagrams in the building code framing book.
Haha man you guys do things so different than here in the states,I enjoyed your video
Good job. I learnt something new
should first make sure the two studs that you mount your gauge blocks on are straight.
manofausagain You’re right man. Most people don’t grasp that concept.
Definitely but it was hard to see if that last stud against the wall was nailed half way up. if not that one stud can throw the whole thing off
that's why i always chalk line my stuns that's butting against a wall if possible
He should never touch another tool for the rest of his life. He has no idea what he's doing.
hahaha! Do it right the first time. I'd fire you if I caught you doing this.
FLITCH as in flitch beam great vid though keep going
Fish plate. Flitch is a plate of different material sandwiched between 2 timber beams (See Flitch Beam)
Cool, as a US DIYer it’s interesting to see how y’all build differently, like the fire blocks between the studs
Literally used the fish and chips technique for the first time the other day. Other chippie I was with had never seen it. Cheer bro.
We always called those scab boards.
Nice to see a true craftsman at work. Most framers would just slap up the sheetrock. You took maybe 20 minutes and made the wall true.
most framers would either use better lumber or crown their boards,these guys are definitely working T&M and not by the job.
A flitch plate is used mainly in roofing.
It's a steel plate between 2 timbers to strengthen the timber over an extended roof beam that would otherwise fail if was just timber alone.
That was a very interesting technique.
Nice trick. Why is the studs pink? In Norway they are natural color of white/brown, as most wood is made from spruce.
lnesland in russia studs are pink, when they have been covered by antiseptic and fire resistanse fluid.
They are pink because its treated timber. Most likely H1.2 (hazard class rating). Mainly used for interiors of the house. Timber that will be exposed to the weather, like bearers and fence posts etc, will usually be H3.2 and will have a greenish colour.
lnesland so bloody cool ready about lumber around the world.. here in Canada we also use spruce and it is natural wood colour.. we do have PT wood pressure treated which is green or brown and always soaked in the summer..
In NZ all wood for building is treated. The colour comes from the treatment applied, from the lightest at H1 level (usually a boron or cyanide mix or similar) up to H6 which is where it's treated under pressure and they throw everything at it (boron, copper, cyanide, all sorts of crap).
It's all rated on an "Hazard scale" from 1 to 6 and the H number specifies the type of use you can put it to. H1 is the lightest treatment and can only be used indoors where there is no weather exposure. So, interior framing and the like. H6 is for stuff in constant contact with water or underground. So, piers and deck piles into water, etc. The H rating also tells you how long you can expect it to last. For example, H4 is rated for ground contact and being buried (deck pile is a common use) and rated to not start rotting within 75 years.
www.nztpc.co.nz/hazardClassDescription.php
I came in here to find out about the pink and got lost in all the conflicting opinions. Name calling. Vitriol. Then I saw this and was "Oh, yeah, right, pink. What's with the pink? The bracing was so linear I wasn't sure at first if they weren't going to leave it. Maybe the pink was paint. But when the saw came out I knew that idea that was finished...
i have a few walls in my home that have a drywall deflation of 2"....you can see them curve via your eye....most fast home-builders don't spend the time to straighten walls.
Accuracy Marked that’s exactly what happened in a new home I bought. Bowed walls. The builders just don’t seem to take time and put care into their work.
beautiful hammer bro :p the best carpentry hammer in the world
your hammer alone is worth more than all my tools combines lmao
Fishplates. That's what they call the flat metal plates used to join sections of railway track together. Therefore I reckon those bits of wood you were using are also fishplates. Love your videos.
Ever think of crowning your studs when framing?
Interesting !. How do you know that the first & last beams (against the walls) are not bowed? If they are, you might be taking a perfectly straight board and bending it to match the curved 1st beam. Hmmmmm !
You are just placing all of the drywall in one plane. But it would be easier to just crown the lumber to start?
Those "beams" are called studs, and when you frame a wall you straighten the top and bottom plates and plumb the end studs. Therefore when you check straightness you are checking from two end points that are meant to plane out.
fuck this is a dumb comment
* always remember to plum both ends before setting up string line *
because you checked that before moving on to this step
WOW!!! I've never seen this before; fantastic!!
a straight edge,spirit level and a good eye will save time and effort.
I strighten studs as part of my job, the fastest/easiest/strongest way to fix interior studs is to cut the stud 3\4 the way through on a 45 degree angle, nail it, then scab a 2x2 on the side. Check the walls for bowed studs with an 8' level, dont waste your time with a string. For exterior studs, you could either plane the ones bowing in, or scabbing another piece of wood on the ones bowing out.
Why the angle?
Andrew Cady the angle keeps more of the studs integrity
You my friend are my kind of framer.we use that method since day 1. Once house is framed complete we finish fixn bowed walls in 3 hrs on 3500 sqr. House.
San Diego, California here. We worked on tract housing for years. They put up walls as fast as they can. They do not check for crowns/bows at all. You are bound to get some wacky studs. We had many ways of straitening walls. One that I liked for stubborn studs is we would let in a 2 x 4 about midway. A 1 x 4 would still bend. Not strong enough. People say that you are losing the integrity of the stud. I say that you are replacing the void with wood and adding lateral strength. Of course we would do it after inspection, right before drywall. Countertops sitting against a wavy wall can cause a lot of problems for example. I know a lot of people think this is crazy, but we did it all of the time. It makes for a very strong, straight wall.
I am curious about what you are saying but don't understand. Do you cut the entire stud in half? How long is the 2 x 4? I'm not a carpenter by any means, just wondering how that would work exactly. In my head it looks interesting but how does it keep the studs from bowing?
Enjoyed the video , I would have placed a nail in the stud where the wedge is. Also, should hang the drywall horizontal and stagger the joints to avoid cracks in the seams.
TheUpholstery1 nail the wedge and split it? You think the wedge is going to slip out with two flitch plates and gib on either side?
Anyone who is needing to put a horizontal join on a wall that size needs to stop loading up their Toyota carollas boot with gib down at Bunnings
@@benwhittingham2525 the fuck did you just say?
for good sound insulation, there must be an elastic wall band inbetween floors walls and the frame (actually branded as "wallband") then a plasterboard attached (no touch with walls or floor), then an 2mm elastomer membrane glued, then a second plaster board on top. fill seams with elastic putty, do the other side (if it is an internal wall), fill the voids with a light sound absorber like stonewool, and you will have a more than 50db sound insulated wall. the way it works is that you have the weight of the inner plasterboard (which would be better not touching the frame, so make the sandwich in prior) used as an vibration absorber, as it will vibrate on rubber alone. the stonewool will absorb any remaining sound waves. same on floors, first a layer of floor elastomer, then any tiling etc. in cases of raised floors with large voids, you can additionally and economically fill the voids with foam peanuts, not an official solution but works to absorb any echoes and does not cost much.
love your videos! keep up the great work!
You should glue the "flitch" plates, in addition to nailing or screwing them. Just nailing doesn't restore their original strength.
+100500. So simple - apply a coat of glue on the wedge, and the whole unit becomes even stronger.
It's just not required in the nz standards to glue it so we don't
Because of the Gib board each side these studs are only taking vertical loading, so the fish platesreturn more than required integrity
I used that method when I was a kid
Nice to see true craftsmanship.
Boom, came from the future (reno series). Great video, even better that you check its straight and don't just assume and gib! 😅