Take Your First (FREE!) Step Into Timber Framing with our Online Mini Course - tinyurl.com/u4ty9nm We have taught thousands of ordinary people how to build their own timber frame structure, starting with raw timbers & ending with a beautiful 24' x 24' structure. Also check out our 5-day, in-person intensive Purely Post-And-Beam class - shelterinstitute.com/course_offerings
Hi Gaius and Gabe. I was just reviewing this joint over the weekend. Great timing for me. I was trying to remember the cutting order. Thanks for these videos.
Interesting video. I have no idea how you yanks work with feet and inches and fractions of inches. I’d love to do a framing course but there is no way I could work with those units. Give me base 10 and millimetres any day
In school we learn both. I would rather work in centimeters and millimeters as well. When you’re just learning carpentry and people are communicating measurements is eighths and sixteenths, not as straightforward as millimeters.
Dawesome21 you could however driving the wedge from the outside tends to drive the post into the beam, making for a tight fit whereas driving the wedge from the inside pushes the post AWAY from the beam.
Yes you can have it exposed on the inside but still facing the same way , where there variation of the joint was simple and more traditional you have lots of options , very old English joint .
Timberdoodles in short, there is no need. The gentle taper of the wedge dies a great job driving the tenon down where the two tapered surfaces (bottom of tenon, bottom of mortise) fully engage each other.
@@ShelterInstitute I've done them no taper and with a taper that matches the wedge, usually a 1:10 ration so a 10" post would have a 1" slope from inside to outside, and driven from the outside. I can see a slight wedge with no taper in the expanded mortice can work. Good video series, I've stopped at the shop a few time. Thanks.
@@andrew63345 With Shelter's method of no taper at the top of the mortice I would see it working best driven from the inside as it will first press the half dove tail tenon down into the bottom slope of the mortice. I drive all my wedged half dove tails from the inside, I like them driven from the inside because I see the tapers wanting to "spit" the wedge out if under force or if it gets loose. If you want to drive it more after it ages you need to leave the wedge short so it won't kick the planking off the outside of the building.
tim wrigley MOST of the time we use a 1” shelf......but we do a load calc for each job to determine required bearing area based on the beam span and the wood species. Recognizing the vagueness of this answer, feel free to get in touch with specific design questions! Use info@shelterinstitute.com
Thank you very much for the suggestion. We have created a couple of sets of cut sheets in Metric and will certainly consider creating the cut sheets for this course in metric.
I wouldn't. Pergolas usually have a lightweight flat roof, not pushing out on the posts. A heavy gable roof on the contrary *does* push out quite significantly, so the locking feature/s of this joint will save the day.
In traditional oak framing we have a more complicated joint . A jowl post with tusk tenon and teasel tenon , These inter link the tie beam the roof plate / frame beam and jowel post . Makes your joint in this vid look pretty simple . Although the sample joint you show is a quality piece of carpentry👍👍👍👍
Well Gaius doesn't feel like he is tiny, and Gabe is very self conscious about his above average stature, so we just say they are of differing heights.
Take Your First (FREE!) Step Into Timber Framing with our Online Mini Course - tinyurl.com/u4ty9nm
We have taught thousands of ordinary people how to build their own timber frame structure, starting with raw timbers & ending with a beautiful 24' x 24' structure. Also check out our 5-day, in-person intensive Purely Post-And-Beam class - shelterinstitute.com/course_offerings
I just cut my first 4 dovetail through mortises!!! Thanks for providing awesome info
HALF dovetail through mortises 🤓
Wow this is beautiful guys
Fabulous craftmanship. And well done on the detailed explanation.
Hi Gaius and Gabe. I was just reviewing this joint over the weekend. Great timing for me. I was trying to remember the cutting order. Thanks for these videos.
Same here!
Jeff LaBrozzi thanks for watching!!
You guys are scientists
Oh my gosh.. I love this so much...
Great Stuff.
Beautiful
Interesting video. I have no idea how you yanks work with feet and inches and fractions of inches. I’d love to do a framing course but there is no way I could work with those units. Give me base 10 and millimetres any day
We are jealous.....
In school we learn both. I would rather work in centimeters and millimeters as well. When you’re just learning carpentry and people are communicating measurements is eighths and sixteenths, not as straightforward as millimeters.
@@ShelterInstitute- are we really? I'd rather work with imperial dimensions, any day.
@3.00 is it worth oven drying the wedge once more before driving in, much as you would using wooden pegged connection?
Love these videos, thank you. Could you also choose to drive the wedge from the inside?
Dawesome21 you could however driving the wedge from the outside tends to drive the post into the beam, making for a tight fit whereas driving the wedge from the inside pushes the post AWAY from the beam.
@@ShelterInstitute Do you cut the wedge flush like you would a peg?
Jason Peltier we usually ‘celebrate the peg’ by leaving it proud an inch.
Yes you can have it exposed on the inside but still facing the same way , where there variation of the joint was simple and more traditional you have lots of options , very old English joint .
you do some treatment on the wood so it lasts longer without rotting?
Is there a reason the top of the mortice, where the wedge rides, is not tapered to match the slope of the wedge?
Timberdoodles in short, there is no need. The gentle taper of the wedge dies a great job driving the tenon down where the two tapered surfaces (bottom of tenon, bottom of mortise) fully engage each other.
@@ShelterInstitute I've done them no taper and with a taper that matches the wedge, usually a 1:10 ration so a 10" post would have a 1" slope from inside to outside, and driven from the outside. I can see a slight wedge with no taper in the expanded mortice can work. Good video series, I've stopped at the shop a few time. Thanks.
Can you drive the wedge from the inside so it can be tightened over time?
@@andrew63345 With Shelter's method of no taper at the top of the mortice I would see it working best driven from the inside as it will first press the half dove tail tenon down into the bottom slope of the mortice. I drive all my wedged half dove tails from the inside, I like them driven from the inside because I see the tapers wanting to "spit" the wedge out if under force or if it gets loose. If you want to drive it more after it ages you need to leave the wedge short so it won't kick the planking off the outside of the building.
They mentioned that they'll *peg* the joint after driving in the wedge, so pounding on it afterwards will not tighten the joint.
With shelf dimensions in joints like that, what's the rule of thumb for their depth? At what proportional depth do you get the most strength?
tim wrigley MOST of the time we use a 1” shelf......but we do a load calc for each job to determine required bearing area based on the beam span and the wood species. Recognizing the vagueness of this answer, feel free to get in touch with specific design questions! Use info@shelterinstitute.com
Is that wedge gonna fill the void all the way to the front side and be cut off flush on the front and back?
That was my thought too. I was told to be precise on the fit of mortise and tenon to maintain a load path Al, the way to the foundation.
Pls make a metric version of the timber framing course for the rest of the world? Pls?
Thank you very much for the suggestion. We have created a couple of sets of cut sheets in Metric and will certainly consider creating the cut sheets for this course in metric.
@@blueberrybeeton5027 thanks blueberry, I would sign up for the online course in an instant if that were so!
we have to have our water freeze at 32 degrees so the polICE can yell FREEZE....
We have completed our first step......we have cut sheets in metric!
Woud you recommend this joint for building a support frame of a pergola?
I wouldn't.
Pergolas usually have a lightweight flat roof, not pushing out on the posts.
A heavy gable roof on the contrary *does* push out quite significantly, so the locking feature/s of this joint will save the day.
In traditional oak framing we have a more complicated joint . A jowl post with tusk tenon and teasel tenon , These inter link the tie beam the roof plate / frame beam and jowel post . Makes your joint in this vid look pretty simple . Although the sample joint you show is a quality piece of carpentry👍👍👍👍
Hello!! I'm an engineer here in Brazil. would you have courses for foreigners? thanks
When you find out please let me know!!
@@mistrcrvr ok friend
my 1881 door frame in loghouse is done like that.
Awesome! Did you build it yourself?
@@stupedcraig well if its built in 1881, then i guess not.
So is one guy tiny or one guy just really a giant?
Well Gaius doesn't feel like he is tiny, and Gabe is very self conscious about his above average stature, so we just say they are of differing heights.
Another Chris K! Awesome. Bless you and the people at shelter institute also.
as cool as a timber frame structure looks , i still prefer the 'stacked' approach that gives full bearing without the complexities of timber framing .
interesting
Splendidly to see Stodoys have new plans which helped me save some money and energy for this construction.
Move your camera when you are showing horizontal timber. Too far away. A drawing would help.
Куртяк