Timber Frame Tenon Jigs First Use - Fantastic
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2023
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#Joinery #Woodworking 
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Brilliant. Old fashioned techniques with modern machinery in perfect harmony. 🌞
That chisel makes me smile, like your in the land of the giants.
Thank you for solidifying the ideas I had flying around in my head!
Nice to see the thought processes attached to making the jigs and any necessary modifications. Once tuned in everything goes better. Keep up the good work. Cheers. Jim
Really enjoying the daily blog/vlog videos. Keep 'em coming!
Fab build !!! Looks awesome
Loving the daily uploads ! 👏🏼.
Great video! Really enjoyed how well you explained everything. I would enjoy a quick recap at the beginning, with the drawing of the final product, just so I remember how far you've come!
Great stuff , nice to see a plan coming together!
Amazing job!!
That chisel. It is a thing of beauty, almost ridiculous in size but oh so useful for the heavy duty stuff.
Great production process, very educational and lovely work really.
Love the chisel :-)
“That’s not a chisel, this is a chisel”. 😂😂
That's NOT a chisel, that's a slick. And it sure is slick. Chisels are designed to be hit with a hammer, slicks are not.
Wonderful thinker you are ... really enjoy your series !
Thanks Matey
Great slick, not something you use everyday, but it sure came in handy this day. :)
very nice
I thought I was the one, who told timber balancing precariously to stay!😂
Agree with raydriver....cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.
Please may I put in a request for some footage of you sharpening that humongous Lilliputt chisel? Mega vids. Cheers Ollie 👍
2:51 that's one sharp shovel..😁 Mafell do a portable band saw which is ideal for this kind of joinery, especially if you need to batch out a lot of parts, best bit is you don't no need to flip the beams as much-saves the back some abuse. Only issue is the price, €5k exVat for ours IIRC.
Loving the trimber framing activities - you could run courses . . .
I guess your brother is now helping with the filming?
Greetings from New Zealand. I love watching you mess with all things oak. I wonder what size the oak tree was. Am envious of the variety of timber species to choose from we don"t have in NZ.
Been on the tools all my working life and never seen a chisel that big !
That's what she said.
It's a timber framing slick, usually 3.5 to 4 inch wide. Very common in timber framing and extremely usefull. Different shapes too, some with a flat bottom like the one see, some with a sweeping bottom . I prefer to start with a sweeping bottom when removing a lot of material then finish with the flat bottom. So fun to use when sharp, frustrating when dull and you're too lazy to sharpen them!
Hi Oliver - Great video - so nice to see you back posting more great content. Love the new blog style! That's a cool trick with the Metal track and the HK Saw - will the track also work with a TS55? Where did you get the track from ? Can you share a link please - cheers Simmo
I can’t get over the size of that chisel 😂
That’s what she said.
Hey Oliver. Wondering if the Festool Sword Saw would be a good tool to use for all these timber cuts? Also, several versions by other manufacturers could be considered. Are they not suitable for this particular job?
The slick is nice for paring the tenons but I bet a Farier's rasp would be easier....I find a Farier's rasp my go to these day for large rough work because it leaves a nice finish
I've got a 110v Bosch Sabre saw and rarely use it, its brutal.
Think you need a bigger chisel
That's what she said.
It’s called a ‘slick’
I can see you wearing a t-shirt with a picture of Pumbaa from the lion king saying "they call me mister jig!"
How do you keep that large blade sharp
Thank you
I'm new to timber framing, but i live in the PNW, USA (the land of massive doug fir, larch, spruce, etc) and I bought a sawmill a few years back, so im getting ready to start building with some of the materials ive been stacking away for the past few years. I have a few questions - what method are you using for squaring your joints? Are your timbers a joined/planed square? Also, id be extremely reluctant to have that heart rot/defect on a tennon. Do you have a protocol when it comes to that? Like what percentage of the tennon can be rotten before you consider using a different post?
can you recommend chisels? What to look for? who to purchase from?
Personally i would a bit more play then 2 mm since your grean oak is going to shrink more and if you drawbore the tenons the strength will be there, it is not fine joinery and you dont want to refine every mortice in the air on site.
Shrink and quite possibly twist a bit.
I’m loving these tenoning jigs for your HK. I wonder if I can find those steel bars in the states?
Thanks bud, its just 5/6" x 1/4" Alloy Bar that i drilled and countersunk, youll be able to get some over there for sure
Nice. I think with a jig you could rout the shoulders off the tenons quicker than the multiple saw passes and chiselling.
can you explain the size of the joint you chose? Why that size? does it depend on what size timber you are using?
That's a Crocodile Dundee moment.......
That Ain't a Chisel.......
THIS IS A CHISEL!
My OCD was shouting at you to put a straight edge across the shoulders of the post and the brace!
Would the veritas honing jig be suffice for that chisel or would i have to use something else. How big is your sharpening station? 😅😅
Need to get some braces on those trestles, much more fun using a slick or a plane on large timbers with trestles that don't wobble
Чисто изготовил👍
Remember, you only get one pair of eyes.
You should avoid 'chopping' at the wood with your slick. A larger 2" timber frame chisel and gentler pushing shaving with the slick (like at 10 minutes) will yield better results and avoid tear-out.
Anyways, beautiful beam and great video!
I'm here like everyone else to comment on the chisel 😅 couldn't believe my eyes at 1st, it's comically big 😄
That's what she said.
Will you use a peg marker which offsets the hole in the tenant which tightens it up when knocked home (I have no idea what the marker is called!)
That process is called draw-boring. Not sure what tool you're talking about, but I'd love to know about it.
Enjoyed the video. But please take the few minutes needed to build a couple of better horses!😂The big slick really had me hooked, where can I buy one?
Where did You get that slick from? doe not look like a vintage one.
Looks Great...... Looks 3mm out from my point lmao Can't wait to see it up
💪
Don't see many farmers in Snickers.............
If Crocodile Dundee did woodwork.... "That's not a chisel..."
George 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I imagine you're getting great enjoyment from all that but how did you ever price the job?
As you know , the cut on the end is easier to cut after the tenon
That chisel is ridiculous!
Love your video :) i do think your saw horses need some X-braces, take out some shake.
Yeah they do! To be fair they are 10 years old and have sat outside their whole life 😂 I may add some 👍😆
Nice eye protection. At least you’ll be able to hear you guide dog.
2mm seems unacceptably loose for that joint, is it not? Why both using a jig that produces a poorly fitted joint, especially considering the fact that you had to make a second deeper cut at the shoulder lines anyway?
No, have to be really careful on tolerances with green timber, 2mm is tight, or you will really struggle to get it assembled( unless you assemble straight away
😂😂😂😂
Sack off those jigs and free hand it like a proper framer.
Nothing screams amateur like tenon cutting jigs, camera and RUclips channel 😂
🫡
eye protection |||||||||||
Great if all your timbers are planned and square
Better if they aren't, gives a straight edge for all the cuts! 👍
@BradshawJoinery not sure what you mean 🤔 plz explain, I'm doing an oak frame at the moment and most of the oak is bent , twisted and a pain in the arse 8inch beams
More for the tenon side than the shoulders, will give you a traight flat tenon to work with rather than cutting off and trying to mark a out of shape beam. Shoulders will need scribing if it's really character whatever. I bet these joints will need kerfing when final fitting a little
This is how an untrained beginner frames. You need to learn to use saws free hand and follow the lines. Tilt the saw slightly so it's not sitting flat on the wood if the line is square. Feels sketchy at first but you'll get used to it
I have skill for wood working,wood carving welding.... etc Are you hiring helper? 😊😊😊
😮😮 2 Sachen. Zimmermannsböcke wackeln nicht! Und eine handbandsäge ist sehr dienlich bei solchen Arbeiten. Und nicht diese festspielzeugsäge für teuer Geld.
Dłubiesz to drewno jak kornik
for smile on end