Amazing Timber Joint - Jupiter Scarf
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
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#Joinery #Woodworking #GreenOak
I think about the working area you have as I hit doors / walls / tools with anything longer than 4 foot in my single garage !
Carpentry (proper timber framing) is such a fascinating craft, very different to cabinet making.
Make a beam wrench (literally just a 🔧 shape out of OSB) gives you loads of control when flipping beams
Interesting. If you used a stepped scarf then the wedges would pull the joint tighter still. Maybe not necessary in this application though.
Yes - I've commented this too. This isn't a jupiter scarf (trait de jupiter) - it's closer to a regular splice with wedges and has a number of issues, as you identify the primary issue is the wedges are doing half the work they could be. There are many examples of this inferior scarf on the web. This is how to lay one out correctly ruclips.net/video/p7K6m6cH7os/видео.html
Love the content here……. Skill level impressive…… video well edited
All in all well done
😮😮😮😮😮😮😮, they better have that here in the states or I’m gonna be mad. That is some of the slickest thing I’ve ever seen.
Great video - Thank goodness you have the farm equipment!!!!
We always had Bahco F type clamps for that type of work, also useful for rotating beams or 'taking a twist out', in the larger sizes.
That is a sight.
Half a mil off, over 20 cm width, is 1/400th.
That is one quarter of a percent.
That is a pretty good tolerance, probably well within the precision limit of any powertool.
I’d not bother with screws, somehow they always manage to suck moisture in. Putting some pegs through will surely give it enough rigidity, this kind of joint by itself is already almost indestructible.
10 years framer here. The wedges aren't doing much, only pushing the joint tight by that hairline gap ~0.5mm. Which is enough friction to stop the joint pulling apart initially, but not really enough to counter the powers of Oak drying. There should be stepped, offset faces the full width of the wedges. This will likely peel open over time. Could need some metal fixings. Your joinery stuff is sick though. Quality stuff 🤙
I’m confused- are you saying that a scarp joint will not work in green oak, or that the geometry of this one is wrong? As far as I understand it, the toe is keyed in at maybe 5 degrees or so (so not purely friction but more like oblique compression). This joint has been made tight as can be, and I have seen lots of very older/cruder scarps holding good.
Nice job, and a hard one to get right !!!!, keep a troshing and take care
Brilliant work .
Absolutely lovin it mate, awesome skills
Nice router too. I have the same one, but mine is orange.
You are a master thank you for sharing.
that bi you call the back put to front, exellent job it's not fine furniture
Absolutely love all your videos and enjoy the blended subject matter. When you were doing the splice job on the beams and got to the stage of cutting the housings for the wedge - did you not consider keeping it all assembled and clamped and cutting the housing with your chain morticer?
I realise you are cracking out long hours farming and making sawdust as well as cranking out regular YT output (Thank you) - but have you ever watched Leo of the Sampson Boat Company who is rebuilding an old wooden yacht Tally Ho ( he has done some amazing woodwork - and in particular spliced joints in large keel timbers made of purple heart) and is 6 years into the project. Another one is Kris of Kris Harbour Natural building - a much more eclectic channel building hydro schemes, wind turbines and more recently timber framed buildings. Worth a scan during the winter if you find yourself at a loose end for a couple of milliseconds.👍🤣
Fantastic work as always. Looking forward to the next episode. Have you heard of Guedelon? They are building a castle using traditional methods two and a half hours drive south of Paris. I’d recommend a visit 🌞
The joints at the ends has to have zero gap between them for the joint to be strong. You can acieve that by making a cut through each joint when the joint is "loosely" assembled with a handsaw. Your joints looks absolutely beautiful, but it wont matter if they're not strong 😬 i like your videos, keep them coming 👍
Cheers bud, yeah I'll kerf them when final fit, no point now as they'll probably move between now and then as you know. They were close enough not to do owt with them at this stage
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks for setting my mind at ease 👍 you are a very skilled craftsman and i really enjoy your videos 🙂 Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰🙂
Try a couple of loose battens on the face of the scarf rather than a dowel or bolt.
Nice
We switched to replaceable blade router cutters way bac once we found it impossible to find a good sharpning service
Title 👍😂
wow
Nice, whats the festool saw used please
Why is it called a Jupiter Scarf?
Dowels over through bolts every time. For me anyway.
What make are those safety trainers?
👍😊
Saw kerf this ends and it will be absolutely perfect
What about a domino or two each side on that ‘shoulder’ ( the one I keep harping on about running a fine saw down 😜)
Then it should close up to perfect alignment with sort of a fox wedged tenon feel
Damn I’m a genius dude 😇 😂
This isn’t a jupiter scarf. A jupiter scarf is what you should be doing 😅. A jupiter scarf is hooked which allows the wedges to have full contact with both pieces, not in a trench like you’ve done here.
What you’ve done is fine but it is inferior to a jupiter scarf (aka trait de jupiter or as it’s known in the US, a hooked stop-splayed undersquinted scarf joint)
The problem at 4:00 is the primary issue with this kind of scarf. I’ve seen wedges split due to having uneven load on them
ruclips.net/video/p7K6m6cH7os/видео.html is how to lay out a jupiter scarf correctly
Watch hammering oak with a lump hammer, if it's green it's guaranteed to bruise and stain. If it's dry it can still stain if it gets wet (only needs the tiniest bit of iron on the surface to react)
To address the tapered/poor fit of the second scarf you could kerf cut them together by clamping/fixing the pieces together and running a saw down the gap, taking off any points that contact. Japanese saws are considerably better than western saws at this (using tension lets you put much more work into the cut) - this can be a lot of work though if you have a lot of correction to do
How is that "vintage machinary"? There's no horses involved.
No it's not, ive got a clip of some steam baling machinery I will do a comparison video
6:13 might want to look up the traditional Japanese "Kanawa tsugi" joint, which includes keying the ends to prevent misalignment once the wedge is in place.
I always like to take the time to appreciate work that I am pleased with! Perhaps it's because very few other people will understand. Nice work as always. Cheers. Jim
Is that oak? Massive beams! Absolutely amazing. Hailing from Scandinavia were all we have are puny baby trees since the lumber industry here is absolutely r*tarded.
Yes European Oak, normally from France or Germany,
Looks like it’s all coming together- plenty more mortises to come all along the length of the beam, how long does a sharpened chain last in the chain mortiser cutting into the green oak?
To keep it from twisting sideways, you could simulate a bridle joint. Make a tongue and groove type joint longitudinally down the scarf. Kind of like a keyway on a shaft. Route the grooves out then use around a 15x15mm square oak "tongue" make sure and rotate the grain on the key/tongue vertically so it won't shear. It would be nice and clean so it wouldn't show. Make sure there is some clearance in the groove, so the tongue doesn't swell and separate the joint.
Yep, this is seen in japanese scarfs often. A jupiter scarf (which this isn't) that is fitted well will resist more side load than is typical for a beam (in good timber frame design the only significant load on a beam should be vertical).
There is zero lateral loading it’s all straight down to the core of the earth
You say it is not a Jupiter scarfe.So What is? will you do a video of one? And post on YT.
Too bad you can't fit the timbers into a cnc machine. Then you wouldn't have to do ant work at all
Its how the big manufacturers do it for sure!
absolute top craftsman, a pleasure to watch . I just love to see a guy knowing exactly what he's doing. Brilliant.
Great stuff, thanks for sharing - I liked the planing trick, I'll remember that. Now, how can I justify that fork-lift ... ?
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JAS memberships available
Brilliant work and a real joy to watch and learn
Looks like some graft as gone into them fella, looks awesome. I remember black fingers when we was machining oak up😅
Love to see a carpenter using a folding rule😎. Most measurements are arbitrary as long as they are equal both ends
Another solution for the wasp nest is ant powder, dust the opening of the nest with it, they drag the power into the nest and it kills everything in the nest. Works a treat, was shown this by pest control inspector.
Yes, or you could just not kill the wasps, and have a pro come in and rehome them. Wasps are pollinators.
👊🫡
Love the project, friend, but I have a complaint about you killing the wasps. They are pollinators, and a part-time farmer, or at least farmer-adjacent, you should appreciate the value of pollinators. A simple phone call to an expert and they could remove that nest without killing anyone. I know you make excuses like “wasps are mean” or “wasps like to sting” and what not, but just…don’t.
Yep - they keep populations of other insects in check too which a farmer or farmer-adjacent chap should appreciate. They never sting you without reason too. Wasp hate is pretty stupid.
Farmer? What do you produce….nuts?
They looked like European hornets. They are of limited pollination value. By the time their nests are large enough it’s well beyond pollination season and all do is eat fruit. If they were honey bees, absolutely try to save the hive.
Great work Mate, have a nice day look forward to next one !!!.😀😀👍👍📐🪚🪚📏📏.