So i have found another reason to buy the x1c...perhaps the most compelling reason. The cheaper wifi module sometimes disconnects. It is completely random. Sometimes it will go weeks without issue and sometimes it lasts hours. To fix it i have to physical power down and restart the machine. This same problem occurs with the a1 series machines. After talking to customer service they said this problem is likely caused because my wifi router is useing the "Dual band in one" function which means it is broadcasting the 2.4g and 5g networks as a single network. They said it can also occur if the 2.4g and 5g networks are named the same. The X1 series has never experienced this problem because of its superior electronics.
I will note as a P1S owner - it also doesn't seem to support WPA3, if your network uses that. Mine would just complain about the password being wrong, no matter what. Fortunately, I have a separate network set up for legacy devices with only 2.4GHz and WPA1/2, but I do think it's worth noting for people who's networking equipment either won't support that, or just don't want to. I'm still super happy with the machine overall though, it's been an incredible step up from my Ender 3.
What? No LED strips in the background? No superhero helmets, no slick unworkable studio?! Just straight to the point, I got all my questions answered. I like it, thank you!
Your video quality was good, the "excitement level" a bit low, but not boring. your "cut right to the chase, NO B.S." approach was spot on, absolutely love the video, thumbs up, and I am now a subscriber. keep up the good work, I'm now off to watch your other videos.
Thank you for your video! Very insightfool. I am thinking on upgrading my Prusa MK3S for the X1C and with a friend we were looking for differences between the X1C and the P1S. Your video helped! Thanks!
The reason all the extra's are stripped for the P1 series is that they can run it with a very basic processor. The P1 series is based on an ESP32 chip, while the X1 has a dual core microcontroler as an MCU to handle the printing and a quad core CPU for the screen and all the 'intelligent' stuff. The P1 lacks the power to do more or do what it does anything faster. Printing is not a big deal; you won't need a big processor for that (look at the most basic of 3D printers), but nowadays we want fancy screens, camera's and network connectivity. The electronics in the P1 are just able to do that, nothing more.
I disagree with your opening statement. They didn't strip features so the could use a less powerful board; the p1 series is stripped down is to save money and because they do not have the extra features they are able to save further money by using a different control board. Thanks for commenting, hope to hear from you again.
@PhilippensTube the end result is the same i agree, but the reasons are different. You said they stripped the machine to use a cheaper processor but that was not true. The truth is They stripped the machine to cut cost.
@josh8106, let's say a politician did something that was good. It doesn't matter what it is, but it was a good thing. If he stated that the reason he did it was because he believed it was right, people would be happy. If they found out later that he did it because it put a million dollars in his pocket, they would be mad even if the end result was the same. In this case, the end result is the same, and cost savings were achieved. I do not disagree with that. I disagree with the reason. Philippens' statement implies that those features would not have been cut if there had not been a less expensive processor to use. In reality, those features would have been cut even if the two machines ran the same board. The reason they were cut was to save on cost, and because they were able to remove all of those features, they also had the option to use a less expensive board and cut costs further. I know that this is an incredibly minuscule distinction, and i am aware that i am being overly particular about this, but for some inexplicable reason, i feel it necessary to make the distinction.
Thanks so much for your review. I was debating on upgrading to the P1S from my current Ankermake M5 which is my first 3D printer and have been using for just under 1year. The comparison between the P1S and X1 was very helpful and so decided to pull the trigger on the X1 instead. Thanks so much and looking forward to receiving the X1 and getting it set up.
Well my voron has all the pluses of the X1-c minus the lidar but it is running eddy current probe, larger build volume, higher flow UHF nozzle, quieter, just as fast. Actually open source, easy to get hardware. No cloud printing that requires the cell phone app not working. Can use any webcam. Ercf mmu, may not have 16 slots but also does not cost $350 per 4 colors eiter. Can do two 9s for the cost of one ams. Not saying its better but its not worse than the x1 either.
@@eclypse3d I'm not saying it's worse, either, but here's the two things that make me prefer the x1c: the ams works all the time every time, and I didn't have to build it. It was kinda fun to build the trident, but it took forever and I'm honestly not the best builder in the world so I had to fix it once it was built. I did a self-sourced build and so by the time you include all the stuff for it, it wasn't even that much cheaper. I'm certainly glad I built the voron, and I'm glad I have it, but when it comes time to get another printer, I'll probably just get another x1c. You can use local mode if you don't like the cloud, and even though the AMS is expensive, it's not super duper fiddly and constantly malfunctioning. If all I had was my trident I'd be happy, but since I have the x1c too...I just prefer it. That's just me, though.
@eclypse3d The voron is still, in my opinion, the gold standard for home 3d printing. That said, even though it has become way easier to get a voron built and setup, it is still more hassle than most are willing todo. Additionally, there are multi color options for the voron but none that work as well or as easily as a Bambu with AMS. Thanks for the comment. I hope to see more insight from you in the future
I was think about getting the P1S because I get the benefit of the AMS for so cheap, but hearing that there is no Lidar in it is a dealbreaker for me. I have access to a X1C at work and the auto calibration for pressure and flowrate has significantly reduced my time and failure rate when I buy filaments I've never used before that I don't ever won't to go back to a printer without it. Looks like I'm just going to save up for a little longer instead of being impatient, thanks for the info!
Lidar is awesome but the p1s really is a good machine even without it. I have only had a few failures or extrusion problems with the p1s but i do like my x1c more....i think there is a sale going on right now so its great time to buy a bambu
Correct. The p1 series does not have flow calibration. That functionality is part of what the lidar does. Thanks for the comment. Please consider subscribing as i will have more content in the future.
Most helpful video I have seen so far to understand the differences. Clearly, it depends on each person and the purpose. If I wanted to buy for a print farm, I would probably go for the P1S. But it's my birthday gift :) so I will go for the X1C!
Is the lidar only used for first layer calibration? My modded cheap ass ender 3 lays perfect first layers without any recalibration after 1.5 years, so I would not pay any extra for lidar. But I'm interested if it does some on-the-fly calibration for every layer?
It’s a cheap upgrade though. I haven’t found a comparison that covers what materials you can’t do with the slightly cooler bed heater on the P1S. Or, if you can somehow upgrade to higher wattage bed on the P1S.
@ironchefboyardeee i do not have actual confirmation of this, but i suspect, based on other things they have done to reduce the P1S price, that the P1S bed cannot be upgraded.
thank you fr this video. I was hesitant about the X1C, but now i made up my mind The only key difference between the p1s and x1c thats gives the p1s an edge is the PEI .. other than that i would just ignore everything else
Glad my video could help you. You can get PEI sheets and more aftermarket. I use several of them in my X1C. Is that something you would like to see a video on? Please consider subscribing if you haven't already.
@jesusgar3400 there was a black friday discount i believe it was 100 or 150 dollars but i do not recall exactly. That sale is long over but I am sure there will be more. Just depends on if you want to wait.
how do you like the Carbon vs 1s, for nylon, or polycarbonate, crazy materials like that, and the tolerances it can hold. You discussed things that make it easier, and more cosmetic. I'm looking for something that can print things for prototyping.
@michaelstraughn3465 i haven't used the p1s for those materials. Spec wise the p1s should be able to do it but the x1c can reach higher bed temps which means higher chamber temps which can help with engineering materials like this. Also every material is a little differect and some day you might find you need the extra bed temperature for a material. In general, the p1s should get the job done, but if you have the money, i would get an x1c.
@@ElectronicShredderhey man! Nothing wrong with a creality. You can’t deny that the Ender 3 single handedly brought 3d printing to where it is. It may not have all the bells and whistles but it got the job done and it’s a hell of a machine for the price. However I don’t see me ever going back to my s1 pro after my new purchase of the p1s. People weren’t lying in their reviews, it just works! I have a soft spot in my heart for the Ender though so maybe I’m biased😂
I'm not sold on the X1C at over a 50% price difference to the P1S with AMS. I can deal without a 4KULTRAHD360VR live feed of my miniature Bender trash can and a little touch screen I would only use to monitor print progress which I can do from my phone anyways. The P1S with a hardened extruder gear and stainless nozzle upgrade is the best value prosumer printer on the market right now.
P1s is definitely the best value. I have never questioned that. My argument is that the x1c is worth the money. I personally would only buy a P1s if i couldn't afford the x1c. The value it adds is that meaningful to me, but i recognize that many, if not most, will not see it that way.
I'm trying to decide between these 2 models currently, getting the ams regardless. I was thinking of the p1s, but realized with the extra features of the x1c, my partner would find it easier to plug and print her little do-dads. Great video!
thanks for the video, but i gotta ask, how you got money for a x1c and p1s, both with ams, but not a phone or camera that can do 1080p? no hate, just that about everything can record at least 1080p when this video was released. i feel like im on youtube 2014
@thedave1602 yeh .....😓 so it was a problem with my video editor configuration. I don't recall what the problem was but it is fixed now for future content.😁 dis the video help you make a decision?
I love this question! Let me try to give you the best answer i can. We expect Bambu to release their new flagship printer this year. This is not confirmed 100% but there is evidence to support the theory. That said, we know almost nothing. For instance, will this be an upgraded x1c or will it be something new entirely? What will the price point be? Will they redesign the AMS and other accessories so that the old models do not work on the new generation? When will they acctually release the printer? next week? Next month? 6 months from now or more? We just dont know. Given all that we do not know, here is my advice to you. If you do not have any 3d printers at all buy a bambu now. Yes you may be missing out on features that will be in the new machine but you will still be starting your 3d printing journey with a machine that most of us could have only dreamed of when we started printing. If you have a 3d printer already and don't immediately need another machine then you could wait a little while and see if the new machine releases soon. I could be wrong but i supsect that the new machine will not launch until just before black friday sales begin. Thats the time when people usually spend more money than they should so its a great time to launch a new model. I have honestly been thinking about buying a second x1c and getting rid of my old bed slingers but i decided to wait for the new model since it is more of a want than a need right now. I hope this advice helps you.
You have cemented my purchase of the X1C. You don't seem sponsored yet others do, and that honesty earned a quick sub. Just a question: I am VERY new to 3D printing and very nervous. I would love if you made some videos on Beginners tips from your perspective, since everyone else seems to be doing a copycat video. For example, I have heard of gluing a bed. WTF even is that? Cheaper but more reliable filament, etc.
Thank you for the sub. You are correct i am not sponsored. Maybe one day i will be but not right now. I do promise though you will always get my honest opinion even if i am sponsored. I would love to make a beginner video and will try to work that into my schedule for January. Sorry to say i am just way too busy right now. But i am always happy to answer your questions here or on printables. Glueing the bed refers to using an adhesive to help prints stick to the bed. With all the correct setting and calibrations you can get away without adhesives but my favorite adhesive is a purple glue stick from amazon. Send me a message on printables and i will give you a link or more information. Its not the best option for everything but i find it work great about 90% of the time. If you get a textured pei sheet with your bambu you will not need to use adhesives for any beginner filament. You will need to occasionally clean the pei with IPA especially if you touch the bed too much. For affordable filament i have been enjoying iiidmax. If you order 10 spools of PLA at a time you can get them for a out $11 per spool. The filament quality has been great but I warn you that the spools and winding job have been lack luster. I have ordered 30+ spools from them and so far none of the spools have been tangled but several have been wound poorly and it can occasionally cause a problem because of this. The other issue is the spool they use has ridges around the outside which need to be cleaned off before using them in the bambu ams...even with those problems i still feel it is worth it if you have a bit more time than money. Thanks for commenting and please feel free to ask me any 3d printing question you have. I am happy to help.
I have seen people who spent many days meticulously calibrating an ender 3 so that it could do what the bambu can do. But if you are talking about out of the box....any bambu printer out perform and ender 3 in every category by atleast 150% and some areas are close to 400% improved....if you need to stay on a budget try bambu labs new A1. I have just gotten mine and it is massivle better than an ender 3 while only being $100 more.
I believe that the mother board and processor are different. I think the reason the camera, lidar and such would be to much for the processor in the P1S.
You are correct. The main board is different and that means a few things for the end user. I was considering making a followup short where i cover two or three other differences caused by the main board. Thanks for commenting. I hope you will consider subscribing 🙂
Yup. The X1 has 2 x CPU's and onboard RAM, thus no SD required, and the P1S uses the ESP32, SD required, which does, just, but is at its very limits. Probably why the camera interface (although @ only 720p) does not play nice regardless.
Theoretical both machines should be capable of the same however it is going to depend on calibration of the filament and the X1C does a great job of that automatically. Still, to achieve the best results with the smallest layers you will undoubtedly need to learn manual calibration no matter what printer you choose. Thanks for the comment. I hope to see more in the future
Yes, you can use a PEI sheet In Both machines. The P1S comes with a PEI sheet standard and I have purchased after market sheets for the X1C. You can also order the PEI sheet from Bambu Labs store. Thanks for commenting and subscribing. Let me know if you have any more questions.
I want the p1s but the x1 has that better display , idk if I want to pay 600$ extra for the display but it’s really a turn off not having a touch screen color display on the p1s. Also I like the ams hub being available on the p1s so I can connect 4 AMS units.
You can use the ams hub on the x1c also. I have one on mine. 1 ams unit is ideal most of the time, but once in a while, i like to do 5-6 color prints. The extra money for the x1c is a lot, but you are getting more than just a touch screen for the money. Hope this helps you make a decision. Please let me know if you have any more questions or concerns.
Just occured to me. If the p1s is good enough for you and all you want is a better display, big tree tech is working on a touch screen display for the p1. It is a $60 product that will add a touch screen similar to the x1. Plus the touch screen has a few more tricks up its sleeve
Im in a weird spot right now. I have ordered the p1s with the AMS, but its a long wait, atleast another week at minimum and ive waited quite some time already. They have the x1 carbon with the ams in stock and i could have it in 2 days. Now im trying to find justifications for this insanity. Like just the wait alone wouldn't cut it. But like the lidar, the better screen and camera is helping a lot. Still not sure what i should do.
I get it. Let me tell you a few more things i have found. The only way to get the timelapses from the p1s is to remove the sd card and download them manually...the x1c can do it from the app or the conputer....whats worse is that the x1c timelapses are in easy to use mp4 format but the p1s uses an avi format which every one of my video editing programs refused to use. There are a number of other things that are better with the x1c...depending on what material you are printing you may need another 100 or 200 in upgrades to the p1s....if you have the money i promise you will not be disappointed with an x1c.
@@How2Texan Thanks. Those are some rather big improvements indeed. Not too worried about the timelapse myself, as im not a content creator or anything, so printing is the thing i care the most about. Timelapse is just a cool extra for me, not that important. The material and needed upgrades is a bigger concern however. Plan is to mainly stick with pla and petg in the start, but eventualy i want to go with other stuff that might need a hardened nozzle etc. So that is something to consider. I think i will wait until this week is over, and if they haven't sent the p1s by friday, i will make the leap to the x1c
I cannot believe I just ordered a x1c without ever even printing anything. I'm committed to this and will print a "poopshute" for my own an a honeycomb wall. It's going to be awesome l. I will watch it all from my yard drinking ice tea in the sun while tbis machine produces this all. This will be the first layer of my evil plan :D
Commenting on a fairly old video, but you seem to reply to lots of comments, so I figured I'd ask: Assuming using the .02 nozzle and PLA, with a fairly low layer height, what is the print quality like on the X1C for small prints? I know a lot of it will come down to how the supports are set up/removed, but I am looking at getting a printer to print both useful stuff like organizers and parts, but also things like tabletop accessories. Terrain will be fine I'm sure, the Bambu printers seem perfect for my low maintenance preferences, but I also know that FDM struggles with miniatures due to the inherent lack of fine detail compared to resin. I do NOT want to touch a resin printer. It seems like more work than printing, and I don't have a space I can set up for it. I've watched some videos on how to set up an FDM printer to get very detailed prints specifically for the use case of tabletop miniatures, but I'd be interested in hearing from someone with an X1C if it is capable of the level of detail I'm wanting. I don't expect resin quality, but I'd like for them to not look like shit, lmao. Great vid. I'm leaning more towards the X1C than the P1S now. Do you find the AMS to be a must have? It adds quite a bit more to the cost from the P1S Combo. I don't really think I'd often actually want multi color/material printing, but I've heard it makes loading filament much easier than normal. Also, is it true that the lidar doesn't work with the PEI textured plate? I've been told that it can't do it's calibration unless you use the default plate, but that everyone uses the textured plate anyways unless printing certain materials, which often makes the lidar superfluous.
I will do my best to answer. I have never personally tried printing a miniature with FDM but I have done it with resin. You are correct that FDM will never reach resin quality. As for the X1C printing miniatures under your proposed settings. I am really not sure. I suspect that the X1C can do a decent job but you will probably need to reduce print speeds and increase per layer time for proper cooling. Alternatively, if you were printing many miniatures or another large object with the miniatures you may not need to do anything with per layer time. I wish i could offer you more but this is a bit out of my wheel house. Once you get your printer I would be interested to chat with you on your successes and failures and maybe offer additional advice as you work it out. The AMS is not a must have if you are not going todo multi color printing. It does make the machine more convenient to load because you have access to the AMS from the front of the machine but it is not that hard to use the rear spool holder and load a spool. If you truly have no interest in multicolor printing then i suggest you skip it for now. You can always get an AMS later although it will cost you a little more buy it later than if you bought the combo. As for the Lidar, I know that the lidar was not functional on the textured plate when I first got it but I also seem to recall reading something that it was possible that future firmware and software updates could add the functionality. I do not think that has happened yet but i wouldn't let that be the basis of your decision. Even though the textured plate is more convenient you can use the smooth plates if you need the lidar to get the results you are after. Even if the lidar doesn't benefit you at all, the AI failure detection on the X1C has saved me allot of filament. Please let me know if you have more questions and consider subscribing if you feel I have been helpful.
Do you think it is worth to buy Bambu X1C Combo Today? I never had a Bambu before. I have only Prusa printers but they're MK3S+. I want to try Bambu but I also want it to be fully featured. I don't think I need the X1E version but X1C is appealing to me. So would it be a good choice or would you suggest me to check maybe Prusa MK4+ or anything else?
@kaanaslan_tr so i have had printers from many brands. Some that are new some old and some that dont exist anymore. Bambu is the new kid on the block while prusa is the OG of reliabilty. I don't own an mk3 or mk4 but i do have a prusa xl 5 tool head machine. This was an expensive machine as i am sure you are aware. So far, i am not exactly loving my prusa xl. Dont get me wrong, every printwr has problems now and again. Every brand also produces a lemon once and a whole so maybe i have a lemon. But my experience to date says that bambu is the way to go. If i were in your shoes, i wouldn't even think twice about it. My bambu printers have been the fastest, easiest, and most reliable printers i have ever used. Even the bambu studio slicer is in my opinion so much easier and more intuitive than prusa slicer which is weired because bambu studio was forked from prusa slicer. Also, other than the prusa xl, prusa has failed to make a reliable multi color system. I have never used prusa's mmu but if i look at reviews online most people are not happy with it. If you are really nervous about switch brands then buy an bambu a1 mini just to test the water. I think once you see the mini in action you will know whether the x1c right for you.
I understand the lidar is used for flow control but I don't understand why that is so important. I'm planning to get one of the models and basically just for fun printouts with my kids. Not for anything professional. I'm not even sure what the PS1 comes with except that I heard I should buy a 02 and a 06 extruder and components that can handle hot materials like carbon and glass if I want to print out things that are stronger? I just started researching this yesterday. I need to find some videos on basic intro and some blueprints to print out some fun things for my kids. Subscribed
Thanks for the subscription. Flow calibration may not be important to you. If your just printing single part toys then most printers will be good enough with the pre-configured flow. But if you are designing something precise, or multiple parts that need to fit together, or if you want a better surface finish...then calibrating flow is important. You can manually calibrate flow on the p1s but the lidar is so convenient. The 02 nozzle is not 100% nessasary but the 06 nozzle is recommended for carbon and glass materials. You can use the 04 nozzle but you will get the occasional clog. Here is what you do need though if you are going to run carbon and glass. You need the upgraded hardened steel nozzle and hardened steel extruder gear. These items come stock on the x1c but you will need to buy them separately for the p1s. The p1s also has a lower bed temperature so you may have trouble with high temp materials but all of the most common filaments will be within your capabilites with the p1s. I hope this helps. Message me here or on printables for more help.
When you say the lidar gives better surface finish, are you referring to just the first layer on the bottom, or does that include other areas of the part like the sides for example? If it’s just the bottom then often times it wouldn’t for parts that are stood on their base where you don’t see it anyway.
I have no problem paying more for obvious things that help improve the performance of the machine and extra smart features to compensate for our ape like intelligence.
I hear alot of people complaining about needing internet for bambu labs printers. Is there really any downside to that? I dont own a printer yet and was considering getting a x1c. I just want to have all the info before i purchase one.
This is a big topic, but i will try to keep it short and sweet. You currently require an internet connection for updating firmware. You can operate the machine without the connection, but you lose certain functionality. There are two reasons people complain about the internet connection. 1 is when the bambu servers go down, you can not wireless send prints to the machine. I have heard some talk that there is a way to do it, but i have not verified it myself. The second issue is one of security, and that is a large multi-faceted topic. I have heard all kinds of things about how they can steal your designs or use the built-in camera to spy on you. Obviously, the camera is really only an issue on the open p1p model. As for stealing your design...sure its technically possible, but they would have to sift through millions of models people are printing. Most single object prints are either not worth stealing or they are easy enough to reverse engineer that stealing your gcode would be harder than modeling it themselves. As for valuable and difficult multi object design... imagined looking at a single object or even several print beds of objects and trying to imagine what someone was trying to assemble....i could go on but to summarize .... in my opinion, it is really not a likely issue. I have paid full price for my bambus and i love them. I have only met a single person who has purchased a bambu and hates it...i am sure there are more people out there, but they are a tiny minority.
@How2Texan thank you so much! I was trying to find out really why everyone was hating the online thing but they still use it anyway so it must not bother them enough lol. None of that sounds like anything I'd have a problem with. I appreciate your response! I'll likely be getting myself an x1c soon. I just need to fix my laptop since I can't use the bambu slicer on it unfortunately. I wish it was possible so I didn't need to buy or fix my old laptop, but oh well I guess lol. Thank you!
@Nemshire you are very welcome. Sorry about your laptop but i am sure you will love the x1c. If you run into any issues message me on my printables account or in the comments of one of my videos. I will do my best to assist. I hope you will consider subscribing for more of my content coming soon.
@How2Texan I will have to figure out how that works and make a printable account lol. And thankyou, I thought I did sub and realized I haven't so I did. If I do have any question I can think of I'll try and find you on printable haha. Thank you so much!
3D Musketeers has a video that tries to delve into this. It's potentially quite a bit more than just your designs and what the camera happens to see. Some don't care and others care a lot, but remember in todays world -YOU or rather data about you is the currency used to pay with, thats how google and all the other big tech companies make a living - the difference which may or may not worry you more or less than those, is that Bambu is Chinese
Aside from Lidar, the other big advantage of the X1C over the P1S is that it supports more materials, no? BTW, any thoughts how the Bambu P1S compares to Infimech TX?
After installing a hardened steel nozzle, i have not found anything that the x1c can print but the p1s cannot. There may be something but its probably really niche. I had not heard of the infimech before just now. I took a quick peak at it and it looks like a knockoff of the creality k1. I have not printed with either printer so i am not the best for comparing but i will say this. There are two things that i belive bambu has done better than any other company. 1 is they made a good multi material handling system and 2 they linked everything together via easy to use software. I belive bambu is still the king in both of these areas.
I ordered the P1S with AMS but the whole waiting for them to ship because it's back order has me considering canceling that order and just going to Microcenter and buying the X1C... I don't know though, seems like a giant waste of 500 additional dollars to just wait for 2 more weeks at this point. Especially when I have another 3D printer already. but I'm impatient and I'm not sure I can wait an additional 2 weeks... I guess there's also Microcenter's 15 day return policy 🙂
Having been using the P1S and X1C together now for a while i can tell you i am much happier with the X1C and personally would buy another x1c in the future over the p1s.
@@How2Texan ya, I just hope it's worth the extra 500 dollars. The one thing I've noticed since going to the Bambu series, it feels like I'm using a lot more filament but it also could be because I'm printing a lot more haha.
@97JoMiller so i had a similar experience. The amount of things like brims, and support material have sky rocketed since bambu came into my life. I am not even including the stuff from the poop chute in that, which really isn't that much unless you are doing intense multi color printing. You will be happy with your x1c. I trust my p1s but i trust my x1c implicitly. So nice knowing i wont come back to a birdnest that waisted half a roll of filament. Ai detection rocks.
see that's the funny thing, I've come back to 3 birds nest in the last 2 days. I thought I shouldn't have those experiences so it kind of surprised me... prints just come off of the build plate and it becomes a mess... with that being said, it's been with my off brand build plate as well as cheap filament. When i use the bambu plate and good PLA+ it's been flawless.@@How2Texan
Waitting for my P1S with AMS I just Order, I couln't justify paying extra for the X1C, specially since my current printer I build myself and already print neautifull but is slow.
Interesting. I haven't really had wifi problems, but mine is in the same room as the wifi router. Thanks for sharing. Please Let us know if you find out more. I hope you will consider subscribing 😀
Was there something in particular i could try to improve? I am still new to this format so there is allot to learn. I know my lighting is really bad but i am working on that. Thanks for the feedback. I hope i can count on more constructive criticism in the future.
@TheGamersRace well this video was only going over things that i hadn't heard other people talking about. Multiple people had covered this already so i didn't bring it up.
@@How2Texan I rarely hear anyone talk about it. The X1C has pathetic material support out of the box, and the p1s is even worse. For $1500 I should be able to print at least the basic "exotic" materials, such as PPS-CF.
@TheGamersRace consider the target audience. I personally can't Name another printer that is less money, just as easy to use, doesn't require hours or even days of careful assembly, consistently produces high quality prints, and can print exotic materials. If you know of one let me know so i can buy one 😀
@@How2Texan This is why I'm waiting for their new printer to come out. Two years ago I'd agree with you, and in some aspects they still dominate, such as quality control, but in the list you just provided there are better options now. One recent example being the qidi plus 4. It has just a hair more features than the Bambu, but those features give it so much more versatility. What it lacks in some of your comparisons, it makes up for in the extra features and lower price. Actively heated chamber, 370c hotend, bigger volume, ceramic heat break, etc. other companies are catching on, and Bambu is slipping hard with their mediocre specs that no longer push the boundaries, relying on gimmicky AI and lidar bs that while people do enjoy, is not as enjoyable as a versatile yet reliable printing experience. They've got the reliable, they need to get the versatile down now or people are going to look elsewhere.
@TheGamersRace specs are not everything. I have used qidi printers. Even for the price, i was disappointed, and their customer service was, in my experience, worse than bambu. I honestly had an easier time and better prints with an ender 3 than with the qidi. I have also seen reviews for a few of the qidi released sense bambu hit the market. While none of those reviews were terrible, they also weren't glowing endorsements. Bambus new machine should be launched by next quarter. I am not sure it will entirely close the gap spec wise because again, bambu has a target audience, but i suspect it will be a new game changer in its own right. I'm very excited about it.
You are correct that most of these differences can be compensated for with just being careful but i am constantly doing dozens of things at the same time. I lost half a roll of filament when i walked away from the p1s but that wouldn't have happened with the x1c spaghetti detection. In my personal opinion the x1c is worth its price but the p1s is a really good value too. Thanks for commenting. Hope to hear more from you soon.
Thanks for pointing out the 720p...i uploaded in 1080 but YT converted it down. Looking into it briefly, it appears i need to use a different 1080 format to prevent this from happening. I will look into this issue for future videos.
Lol, that is funny. But i think the x1c is practical in business. Imagine if your printing really expensive material on a regular basis. Spaghetti detection could easily save thousands of dollars over the life of the machine. Or a more practical example. Imagine you as a maker are working on something important with a deadline. Everything looked good but when you walked away it started going sideways. Spaghetti detection could warn you of the failure in time to restart the print or if you had very little of a particular filament left Spaghetti detection could prevent you from wasting it and needing to buy another spool.
you are %100 right for printing as bussiness model but i was talking about home-user. Otherwise i would fo straight X1C if im gonna make money from it. Most of us can't even afford 2 printers lol. So I just get the P1S without AMS.@@How2Texan
Those had already been spoken about in many peoples videos. You can easily find dozens of videos that list easily found information like that. I didn't want to make a video that was just copying what all the early reviewers had already said. I wanted to give more unique points of view. That is why this video was titled Unspoken Differences. These are differences that are not spoken about in very many videos. I hope this knowledge makes the video at least a little better in your eyes. Thanks for watching.
I appreciated him talking about the things most others don't mention in a short video. Don't need another 20 minute video reading the spec sheet that everybody already did.
I'm trying to decide between these 2 models currently, getting the ams regardless. I was thinking of the p1s, but realized with the extra features of the x1c, my partner would find it easier to plug and print her little do-dads. Great video!
So i have found another reason to buy the x1c...perhaps the most compelling reason.
The cheaper wifi module sometimes disconnects. It is completely random. Sometimes it will go weeks without issue and sometimes it lasts hours. To fix it i have to physical power down and restart the machine. This same problem occurs with the a1 series machines. After talking to customer service they said this problem is likely caused because my wifi router is useing the "Dual band in one" function which means it is broadcasting the 2.4g and 5g networks as a single network. They said it can also occur if the 2.4g and 5g networks are named the same.
The X1 series has never experienced this problem because of its superior electronics.
We have this problem with the X1C in my office currently. It does not work at all when having a 2.4GHz and 5Ghz network with the same name.
I will note as a P1S owner - it also doesn't seem to support WPA3, if your network uses that. Mine would just complain about the password being wrong, no matter what. Fortunately, I have a separate network set up for legacy devices with only 2.4GHz and WPA1/2, but I do think it's worth noting for people who's networking equipment either won't support that, or just don't want to. I'm still super happy with the machine overall though, it's been an incredible step up from my Ender 3.
@@fxckrio Own a P1S too and can confirm this. While the connection over WPA2 itself is rock solid, 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz.
Finally someone talking about the key differences
Glad you liked the video. Please consider subscribing for more content coming soon.
What? No LED strips in the background?
No superhero helmets, no slick unworkable studio?!
Just straight to the point, I got all my questions answered. I like it, thank you!
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
You would like my gaming pc mate :D it's just a black Sharkoon tower and the only light is the power button :D
That’s how Texans roll…
@@AA-xm7rt Bless. I am sick and tired of all the RGB forced down my throat nowadays. I want a functional machine, not a Christmas tree on my desk.
@@boskee yes but that case with the screen looks awesome though it cost a few limbs.
Your video quality was good, the "excitement level" a bit low, but not boring.
your "cut right to the chase, NO B.S." approach was spot on, absolutely love the video, thumbs up, and I am now a subscriber.
keep up the good work, I'm now off to watch your other videos.
Wow, thanks for the glowing review. I hope my newer content lives up to your standards.
Finally, i found the right video explaining what im looking for, to decide which one i will buy. Thanks.
Your welcome. I am glad my video was helpful. Please consider subscribing if you haven't already
which one you buying?
Thank you for your video! Very insightfool. I am thinking on upgrading my Prusa MK3S for the X1C and with a friend we were looking for differences between the X1C and the P1S. Your video helped! Thanks!
So glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for subscribing. My content should resume next month after i finish moving.
The reason all the extra's are stripped for the P1 series is that they can run it with a very basic processor. The P1 series is based on an ESP32 chip, while the X1 has a dual core microcontroler as an MCU to handle the printing and a quad core CPU for the screen and all the 'intelligent' stuff. The P1 lacks the power to do more or do what it does anything faster. Printing is not a big deal; you won't need a big processor for that (look at the most basic of 3D printers), but nowadays we want fancy screens, camera's and network connectivity. The electronics in the P1 are just able to do that, nothing more.
I disagree with your opening statement. They didn't strip features so the could use a less powerful board; the p1 series is stripped down is to save money and because they do not have the extra features they are able to save further money by using a different control board.
Thanks for commenting, hope to hear from you again.
@@How2Texanthat's the same thing, but said in a different way.
@PhilippensTube the end result is the same i agree, but the reasons are different. You said they stripped the machine to use a cheaper processor but that was not true. The truth is They stripped the machine to cut cost.
Running a cheaper processor implies cutting machine costs. I agree with Philippens it’s the same thing
@josh8106, let's say a politician did something that was good. It doesn't matter what it is, but it was a good thing. If he stated that the reason he did it was because he believed it was right, people would be happy. If they found out later that he did it because it put a million dollars in his pocket, they would be mad even if the end result was the same.
In this case, the end result is the same, and cost savings were achieved. I do not disagree with that. I disagree with the reason. Philippens' statement implies that those features would not have been cut if there had not been a less expensive processor to use. In reality, those features would have been cut even if the two machines ran the same board. The reason they were cut was to save on cost, and because they were able to remove all of those features, they also had the option to use a less expensive board and cut costs further.
I know that this is an incredibly minuscule distinction, and i am aware that i am being overly particular about this, but for some inexplicable reason, i feel it necessary to make the distinction.
Thanks so much for your review. I was debating on upgrading to the P1S from my current Ankermake M5 which is my first 3D printer and have been using for just under 1year. The comparison between the P1S and X1 was very helpful and so decided to pull the trigger on the X1 instead. Thanks so much and looking forward to receiving the X1 and getting it set up.
You're very welcome. I am sure yo will love your machine. Please consider subscribing if you haven't already.
@@How2Texan yes I already have. Cheers
I have heard some of this before but other stuff was new. I didn't know that the P1 series didn't have any print failure detection.
it's great to see another perspective apart from the gig 3D Printing guys. So thank you for your 2 cents on the matter.
I am glad you liked it. I just bought an a1 combo so i might do a comparison between it and the p1 series
@@How2Texan That sounds like a great idea. Looking forward to seeing it. 👍
I almost wish I hadn't gotten an x1c...because using any other printer feels like a downgrade now, even the voron.
I am still setting up my voron 0 but i know what you mean. The X1C is in a league all its own.
Well my voron has all the pluses of the X1-c minus the lidar but it is running eddy current probe, larger build volume, higher flow UHF nozzle, quieter, just as fast. Actually open source, easy to get hardware. No cloud printing that requires the cell phone app not working. Can use any webcam. Ercf mmu, may not have 16 slots but also does not cost $350 per 4 colors eiter. Can do two 9s for the cost of one ams. Not saying its better but its not worse than the x1 either.
@@eclypse3d I'm not saying it's worse, either, but here's the two things that make me prefer the x1c: the ams works all the time every time, and I didn't have to build it. It was kinda fun to build the trident, but it took forever and I'm honestly not the best builder in the world so I had to fix it once it was built. I did a self-sourced build and so by the time you include all the stuff for it, it wasn't even that much cheaper. I'm certainly glad I built the voron, and I'm glad I have it, but when it comes time to get another printer, I'll probably just get another x1c. You can use local mode if you don't like the cloud, and even though the AMS is expensive, it's not super duper fiddly and constantly malfunctioning. If all I had was my trident I'd be happy, but since I have the x1c too...I just prefer it. That's just me, though.
@eclypse3d The voron is still, in my opinion, the gold standard for home 3d printing. That said, even though it has become way easier to get a voron built and setup, it is still more hassle than most are willing todo. Additionally, there are multi color options for the voron but none that work as well or as easily as a Bambu with AMS. Thanks for the comment. I hope to see more insight from you in the future
I was think about getting the P1S because I get the benefit of the AMS for so cheap, but hearing that there is no Lidar in it is a dealbreaker for me. I have access to a X1C at work and the auto calibration for pressure and flowrate has significantly reduced my time and failure rate when I buy filaments I've never used before that I don't ever won't to go back to a printer without it. Looks like I'm just going to save up for a little longer instead of being impatient, thanks for the info!
Lidar is awesome but the p1s really is a good machine even without it. I have only had a few failures or extrusion problems with the p1s but i do like my x1c more....i think there is a sale going on right now so its great time to buy a bambu
Curious on the loudness between the two. Is the P1S any obviously louder?
I can't really notice a difference so if there is one, it is extremely minor. Hope this helps.
Is the flow-rate calibration not a feature? Not sure how much it does, but never had to calibrate flowrate manually since I got the X1C.
Correct. The p1 series does not have flow calibration. That functionality is part of what the lidar does. Thanks for the comment. Please consider subscribing as i will have more content in the future.
Most helpful video I have seen so far to understand the differences. Clearly, it depends on each person and the purpose. If I wanted to buy for a print farm, I would probably go for the P1S. But it's my birthday gift :) so I will go for the X1C!
Thank you for your kind words. For a print farm I would probably do p1s too. Enjoy your x1c. Hope to see more from you in the future.
Is the lidar only used for first layer calibration? My modded cheap ass ender 3 lays perfect first layers without any recalibration after 1.5 years, so I would not pay any extra for lidar. But I'm interested if it does some on-the-fly calibration for every layer?
To the best of my knowledge, the lidar does not do any calibration mid print.
How about the noise? Is P1S much louder?
@@JohnNeo i dont notice any difference between the two so if there is it is minor.
Will get a P1S, didn't found any reason that seems important to me.
Very important difference is the hardened extruder and nozzle on x1c, ready for cf filaments.
You are correct that is an important difference but i didn't include that because i felt it had already been discussed enough. Thanks for the comment.
It’s a cheap upgrade though. I haven’t found a comparison that covers what materials you can’t do with the slightly cooler bed heater on the P1S. Or, if you can somehow upgrade to higher wattage bed on the P1S.
@ironchefboyardeee i do not have actual confirmation of this, but i suspect, based on other things they have done to reduce the P1S price, that the P1S bed cannot be upgraded.
thank you fr this video. I was hesitant about the X1C, but now i made up my mind
The only key difference between the p1s and x1c thats gives the p1s an edge is the PEI .. other than that i would just ignore everything else
Glad my video could help you. You can get PEI sheets and more aftermarket. I use several of them in my X1C. Is that something you would like to see a video on? Please consider subscribing if you haven't already.
With the discount I’m really considering the X1C with the possibilities of updating software on that ai sensor it looks promising.
The x1c is an amazing machine. I absolutely love mine.
Ok, what discount?
@@tftg458 the discount is gone now. It was for black friday. Sorry you missed
@@How2Texanwhat was the discount
@jesusgar3400 there was a black friday discount i believe it was 100 or 150 dollars but i do not recall exactly. That sale is long over but I am sure there will be more. Just depends on if you want to wait.
how do you like the Carbon vs 1s, for nylon, or polycarbonate, crazy materials like that, and the tolerances it can hold. You discussed things that make it easier, and more cosmetic. I'm looking for something that can print things for prototyping.
@michaelstraughn3465 i haven't used the p1s for those materials. Spec wise the p1s should be able to do it but the x1c can reach higher bed temps which means higher chamber temps which can help with engineering materials like this. Also every material is a little differect and some day you might find you need the extra bed temperature for a material. In general, the p1s should get the job done, but if you have the money, i would get an x1c.
My choices were the P1S with AMS or the X1C without AMS. Honestly it wasn't a difficult decision.
I assume you got the ams lol. I would have made the same choice.
@@How2Texan yes sir.
Any choice is right as long as it isn't a Creality
😅
@@ElectronicShredder 🤣
@@ElectronicShredderhey man! Nothing wrong with a creality. You can’t deny that the Ender 3 single handedly brought 3d printing to where it is. It may not have all the bells and whistles but it got the job done and it’s a hell of a machine for the price. However I don’t see me ever going back to my s1 pro after my new purchase of the p1s. People weren’t lying in their reviews, it just works! I have a soft spot in my heart for the Ender though so maybe I’m biased😂
I'm not sold on the X1C at over a 50% price difference to the P1S with AMS. I can deal without a 4KULTRAHD360VR live feed of my miniature Bender trash can and a little touch screen I would only use to monitor print progress which I can do from my phone anyways. The P1S with a hardened extruder gear and stainless nozzle upgrade is the best value prosumer printer on the market right now.
P1s is definitely the best value. I have never questioned that. My argument is that the x1c is worth the money. I personally would only buy a P1s if i couldn't afford the x1c. The value it adds is that meaningful to me, but i recognize that many, if not most, will not see it that way.
I'm trying to decide between these 2 models currently, getting the ams regardless. I was thinking of the p1s, but realized with the extra features of the x1c, my partner would find it easier to plug and print her little do-dads. Great video!
Thanks, i hope you will consider subscribing for future content
Awesome vid, man. You have me sold on the Carbon.
@@babyvanta Thanks so much. I'm glad my video was able to help you. Please consider subscribing if you haven't already.
thanks for the video, but i gotta ask, how you got money for a x1c and p1s, both with ams, but not a phone or camera that can do 1080p? no hate, just that about everything can record at least 1080p when this video was released. i feel like im on youtube 2014
@thedave1602 yeh .....😓 so it was a problem with my video editor configuration. I don't recall what the problem was but it is fixed now for future content.😁 dis the video help you make a decision?
Any difference in noise between the two machines?
There is not any noticeable difference to me.
QUESTION, should i buy the x1c or wait for a newer version? And yes i know the x1c is still a great device..
I love this question! Let me try to give you the best answer i can. We expect Bambu to release their new flagship printer this year. This is not confirmed 100% but there is evidence to support the theory. That said, we know almost nothing. For instance, will this be an upgraded x1c or will it be something new entirely? What will the price point be? Will they redesign the AMS and other accessories so that the old models do not work on the new generation? When will they acctually release the printer? next week? Next month? 6 months from now or more? We just dont know. Given all that we do not know, here is my advice to you. If you do not have any 3d printers at all buy a bambu now. Yes you may be missing out on features that will be in the new machine but you will still be starting your 3d printing journey with a machine that most of us could have only dreamed of when we started printing. If you have a 3d printer already and don't immediately need another machine then you could wait a little while and see if the new machine releases soon. I could be wrong but i supsect that the new machine will not launch until just before black friday sales begin. Thats the time when people usually spend more money than they should so its a great time to launch a new model. I have honestly been thinking about buying a second x1c and getting rid of my old bed slingers but i decided to wait for the new model since it is more of a want than a need right now.
I hope this advice helps you.
You have cemented my purchase of the X1C. You don't seem sponsored yet others do, and that honesty earned a quick sub.
Just a question: I am VERY new to 3D printing and very nervous. I would love if you made some videos on Beginners tips from your perspective, since everyone else seems to be doing a copycat video. For example, I have heard of gluing a bed. WTF even is that? Cheaper but more reliable filament, etc.
Thank you for the sub. You are correct i am not sponsored. Maybe one day i will be but not right now. I do promise though you will always get my honest opinion even if i am sponsored.
I would love to make a beginner video and will try to work that into my schedule for January. Sorry to say i am just way too busy right now. But i am always happy to answer your questions here or on printables.
Glueing the bed refers to using an adhesive to help prints stick to the bed. With all the correct setting and calibrations you can get away without adhesives but my favorite adhesive is a purple glue stick from amazon. Send me a message on printables and i will give you a link or more information. Its not the best option for everything but i find it work great about 90% of the time. If you get a textured pei sheet with your bambu you will not need to use adhesives for any beginner filament. You will need to occasionally clean the pei with IPA especially if you touch the bed too much.
For affordable filament i have been enjoying iiidmax. If you order 10 spools of PLA at a time you can get them for a out $11 per spool. The filament quality has been great but I warn you that the spools and winding job have been lack luster. I have ordered 30+ spools from them and so far none of the spools have been tangled but several have been wound poorly and it can occasionally cause a problem because of this. The other issue is the spool they use has ridges around the outside which need to be cleaned off before using them in the bambu ams...even with those problems i still feel it is worth it if you have a bit more time than money.
Thanks for commenting and please feel free to ask me any 3d printing question you have. I am happy to help.
@@How2Texan Wow, so incredibly thorough. Thank you!
@@pejiSLB you are welcome. Feel free to ask questions any time
This was a very good video mate. Great stuff.
Thanks for the video this is great , great points other missed
@petertwiss356 your welcome. Glad i was helpful. Please consider subscribing if you haven't already.
how much of an improvement on quality did people get going from say an ender 3 to x1c or is it the speed difference people get
I have seen people who spent many days meticulously calibrating an ender 3 so that it could do what the bambu can do. But if you are talking about out of the box....any bambu printer out perform and ender 3 in every category by atleast 150% and some areas are close to 400% improved....if you need to stay on a budget try bambu labs new A1. I have just gotten mine and it is massivle better than an ender 3 while only being $100 more.
The Bambu Lab logo also only illuminates on the print head on the X1C. Not a big difference but i still think it's cool.
Which you can turn off using code in the printer settings of the slicer.
@@TheNerdArmory Yep
I believe that the mother board and processor are different. I think the reason the camera, lidar and such would be to much for the processor in the P1S.
You are correct. The main board is different and that means a few things for the end user. I was considering making a followup short where i cover two or three other differences caused by the main board. Thanks for commenting. I hope you will consider subscribing 🙂
Yup. The X1 has 2 x CPU's and onboard RAM, thus no SD required, and the P1S uses the ESP32, SD required, which does, just, but is at its very limits. Probably why the camera interface (although @ only 720p) does not play nice regardless.
@@scaramonga awesome insight. Thanks for sharing.
great share🎉 thank u
P1s va x1c same speed of printing???
Yes...same printing speed but the x1c does do some extra calbration steps so it may take a few minutes longer.
Great video
Terrific video! Thank you!
Your welcome. So glad you liked the video. I hope you will consider subscribing for more content in the future.
Really really curious about how thinner both machines can go each layer?
Theoretical both machines should be capable of the same however it is going to depend on calibration of the filament and the X1C does a great job of that automatically. Still, to achieve the best results with the smallest layers you will undoubtedly need to learn manual calibration no matter what printer you choose. Thanks for the comment. I hope to see more in the future
Very good video! Helped me make my decision! Going with the X1C to sit beside my Adventurer 4!
Glad you liked the video. You will love the x1c. I hope you will consider subscribing for more of my content in the future.
i dont know if the camera is any different its lower cost control board is dual core and cant handle the processing for full speed camera streaming
I was told by tech support that the camera is different. But it is always possible something was mistranslated. Thanks for the comment
yes please. do more videos you are doing a very job . can i put in a pei build plate. please let me know
Yes, you can use a PEI sheet In Both machines. The P1S comes with a PEI sheet standard and I have purchased after market sheets for the X1C. You can also order the PEI sheet from Bambu Labs store. Thanks for commenting and subscribing. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Great Video!
You help me a lot. Thanks
@viniciusgandra1982 your welcome. Feel free to ask any questions and please consider subscribing if you haven't already
@@How2TexanThanks a million, mate. You’re so kind. I’m from Brazil and I’ll be buying my P1S right now because of your video. I’m so happy.
I want the p1s but the x1 has that better display , idk if I want to pay 600$ extra for the display but it’s really a turn off not having a touch screen color display on the p1s. Also I like the ams hub being available on the p1s so I can connect 4 AMS units.
You can use the ams hub on the x1c also. I have one on mine. 1 ams unit is ideal most of the time, but once in a while, i like to do 5-6 color prints. The extra money for the x1c is a lot, but you are getting more than just a touch screen for the money. Hope this helps you make a decision. Please let me know if you have any more questions or concerns.
Just occured to me. If the p1s is good enough for you and all you want is a better display, big tree tech is working on a touch screen display for the p1. It is a $60 product that will add a touch screen similar to the x1. Plus the touch screen has a few more tricks up its sleeve
Im in a weird spot right now. I have ordered the p1s with the AMS, but its a long wait, atleast another week at minimum and ive waited quite some time already. They have the x1 carbon with the ams in stock and i could have it in 2 days. Now im trying to find justifications for this insanity. Like just the wait alone wouldn't cut it. But like the lidar, the better screen and camera is helping a lot. Still not sure what i should do.
I get it. Let me tell you a few more things i have found. The only way to get the timelapses from the p1s is to remove the sd card and download them manually...the x1c can do it from the app or the conputer....whats worse is that the x1c timelapses are in easy to use mp4 format but the p1s uses an avi format which every one of my video editing programs refused to use. There are a number of other things that are better with the x1c...depending on what material you are printing you may need another 100 or 200 in upgrades to the p1s....if you have the money i promise you will not be disappointed with an x1c.
@@How2Texan Thanks. Those are some rather big improvements indeed. Not too worried about the timelapse myself, as im not a content creator or anything, so printing is the thing i care the most about. Timelapse is just a cool extra for me, not that important. The material and needed upgrades is a bigger concern however. Plan is to mainly stick with pla and petg in the start, but eventualy i want to go with other stuff that might need a hardened nozzle etc. So that is something to consider.
I think i will wait until this week is over, and if they haven't sent the p1s by friday, i will make the leap to the x1c
I cannot believe I just ordered a x1c without ever even printing anything. I'm committed to this and will print a "poopshute" for my own an a honeycomb wall. It's going to be awesome l. I will watch it all from my yard drinking ice tea in the sun while tbis machine produces this all. This will be the first layer of my evil plan :D
Haha sounds awesome. Make sure to let us know how much your enjoying it when you get it.
@@How2Texan I will thanks man! This is the most expensive thing i have ever bought so far so I hope everything goes allright :)
Commenting on a fairly old video, but you seem to reply to lots of comments, so I figured I'd ask:
Assuming using the .02 nozzle and PLA, with a fairly low layer height, what is the print quality like on the X1C for small prints? I know a lot of it will come down to how the supports are set up/removed, but I am looking at getting a printer to print both useful stuff like organizers and parts, but also things like tabletop accessories. Terrain will be fine I'm sure, the Bambu printers seem perfect for my low maintenance preferences, but I also know that FDM struggles with miniatures due to the inherent lack of fine detail compared to resin.
I do NOT want to touch a resin printer. It seems like more work than printing, and I don't have a space I can set up for it. I've watched some videos on how to set up an FDM printer to get very detailed prints specifically for the use case of tabletop miniatures, but I'd be interested in hearing from someone with an X1C if it is capable of the level of detail I'm wanting. I don't expect resin quality, but I'd like for them to not look like shit, lmao.
Great vid. I'm leaning more towards the X1C than the P1S now. Do you find the AMS to be a must have? It adds quite a bit more to the cost from the P1S Combo. I don't really think I'd often actually want multi color/material printing, but I've heard it makes loading filament much easier than normal.
Also, is it true that the lidar doesn't work with the PEI textured plate? I've been told that it can't do it's calibration unless you use the default plate, but that everyone uses the textured plate anyways unless printing certain materials, which often makes the lidar superfluous.
I will do my best to answer. I have never personally tried printing a miniature with FDM but I have done it with resin. You are correct that FDM will never reach resin quality. As for the X1C printing miniatures under your proposed settings. I am really not sure. I suspect that the X1C can do a decent job but you will probably need to reduce print speeds and increase per layer time for proper cooling. Alternatively, if you were printing many miniatures or another large object with the miniatures you may not need to do anything with per layer time. I wish i could offer you more but this is a bit out of my wheel house. Once you get your printer I would be interested to chat with you on your successes and failures and maybe offer additional advice as you work it out.
The AMS is not a must have if you are not going todo multi color printing. It does make the machine more convenient to load because you have access to the AMS from the front of the machine but it is not that hard to use the rear spool holder and load a spool. If you truly have no interest in multicolor printing then i suggest you skip it for now. You can always get an AMS later although it will cost you a little more buy it later than if you bought the combo.
As for the Lidar, I know that the lidar was not functional on the textured plate when I first got it but I also seem to recall reading something that it was possible that future firmware and software updates could add the functionality. I do not think that has happened yet but i wouldn't let that be the basis of your decision. Even though the textured plate is more convenient you can use the smooth plates if you need the lidar to get the results you are after. Even if the lidar doesn't benefit you at all, the AI failure detection on the X1C has saved me allot of filament.
Please let me know if you have more questions and consider subscribing if you feel I have been helpful.
Search up “printing minis on an fdm printer” and You’ll find lots of tips and setups.
wait how many printers you even have ?
Working or just total? I have 6 that are more or less working. Total... I am not really sure...its double digits for sure.
Do you think it is worth to buy Bambu X1C Combo Today? I never had a Bambu before. I have only Prusa printers but they're MK3S+. I want to try Bambu but I also want it to be fully featured. I don't think I need the X1E version but X1C is appealing to me. So would it be a good choice or would you suggest me to check maybe Prusa MK4+ or anything else?
@kaanaslan_tr so i have had printers from many brands. Some that are new some old and some that dont exist anymore. Bambu is the new kid on the block while prusa is the OG of reliabilty. I don't own an mk3 or mk4 but i do have a prusa xl 5 tool head machine. This was an expensive machine as i am sure you are aware. So far, i am not exactly loving my prusa xl. Dont get me wrong, every printwr has problems now and again. Every brand also produces a lemon once and a whole so maybe i have a lemon. But my experience to date says that bambu is the way to go. If i were in your shoes, i wouldn't even think twice about it. My bambu printers have been the fastest, easiest, and most reliable printers i have ever used. Even the bambu studio slicer is in my opinion so much easier and more intuitive than prusa slicer which is weired because bambu studio was forked from prusa slicer. Also, other than the prusa xl, prusa has failed to make a reliable multi color system. I have never used prusa's mmu but if i look at reviews online most people are not happy with it. If you are really nervous about switch brands then buy an bambu a1 mini just to test the water. I think once you see the mini in action you will know whether the x1c right for you.
I understand the lidar is used for flow control but I don't understand why that is so important.
I'm planning to get one of the models and basically just for fun printouts with my kids.
Not for anything professional.
I'm not even sure what the PS1 comes with except that I heard I should buy a 02 and a 06 extruder and components that can handle hot materials like carbon and glass if I want to print out things that are stronger?
I just started researching this yesterday. I need to find some videos on basic intro and some blueprints to print out some fun things for my kids.
Subscribed
Thanks for the subscription. Flow calibration may not be important to you. If your just printing single part toys then most printers will be good enough with the pre-configured flow. But if you are designing something precise, or multiple parts that need to fit together, or if you want a better surface finish...then calibrating flow is important. You can manually calibrate flow on the p1s but the lidar is so convenient.
The 02 nozzle is not 100% nessasary but the 06 nozzle is recommended for carbon and glass materials. You can use the 04 nozzle but you will get the occasional clog.
Here is what you do need though if you are going to run carbon and glass. You need the upgraded hardened steel nozzle and hardened steel extruder gear. These items come stock on the x1c but you will need to buy them separately for the p1s. The p1s also has a lower bed temperature so you may have trouble with high temp materials but all of the most common filaments will be within your capabilites with the p1s.
I hope this helps. Message me here or on printables for more help.
When you say the lidar gives better surface finish, are you referring to just the first layer on the bottom, or does that include other areas of the part like the sides for example?
If it’s just the bottom then often times it wouldn’t for parts that are stood on their base where you don’t see it anyway.
good review thanks ;)
Glad you liked it.
I have no problem paying more for obvious things that help improve the performance of the machine and extra smart features to compensate for our ape like intelligence.
I hear alot of people complaining about needing internet for bambu labs printers. Is there really any downside to that? I dont own a printer yet and was considering getting a x1c. I just want to have all the info before i purchase one.
This is a big topic, but i will try to keep it short and sweet. You currently require an internet connection for updating firmware. You can operate the machine without the connection, but you lose certain functionality. There are two reasons people complain about the internet connection. 1 is when the bambu servers go down, you can not wireless send prints to the machine. I have heard some talk that there is a way to do it, but i have not verified it myself. The second issue is one of security, and that is a large multi-faceted topic. I have heard all kinds of things about how they can steal your designs or use the built-in camera to spy on you. Obviously, the camera is really only an issue on the open p1p model. As for stealing your design...sure its technically possible, but they would have to sift through millions of models people are printing. Most single object prints are either not worth stealing or they are easy enough to reverse engineer that stealing your gcode would be harder than modeling it themselves. As for valuable and difficult multi object design... imagined looking at a single object or even several print beds of objects and trying to imagine what someone was trying to assemble....i could go on but to summarize .... in my opinion, it is really not a likely issue. I have paid full price for my bambus and i love them. I have only met a single person who has purchased a bambu and hates it...i am sure there are more people out there, but they are a tiny minority.
@How2Texan thank you so much! I was trying to find out really why everyone was hating the online thing but they still use it anyway so it must not bother them enough lol. None of that sounds like anything I'd have a problem with. I appreciate your response! I'll likely be getting myself an x1c soon. I just need to fix my laptop since I can't use the bambu slicer on it unfortunately. I wish it was possible so I didn't need to buy or fix my old laptop, but oh well I guess lol. Thank you!
@Nemshire you are very welcome. Sorry about your laptop but i am sure you will love the x1c. If you run into any issues message me on my printables account or in the comments of one of my videos. I will do my best to assist. I hope you will consider subscribing for more of my content coming soon.
@How2Texan I will have to figure out how that works and make a printable account lol. And thankyou, I thought I did sub and realized I haven't so I did. If I do have any question I can think of I'll try and find you on printable haha. Thank you so much!
3D Musketeers has a video that tries to delve into this. It's potentially quite a bit more than just your designs and what the camera happens to see. Some don't care and others care a lot, but remember in todays world -YOU or rather data about you is the currency used to pay with, thats how google and all the other big tech companies make a living - the difference which may or may not worry you more or less than those, is that Bambu is Chinese
The only legitimate feature you're missing is lidar that's it most people don't need the X1C it's complete overkill for the normal Joe
Aside from Lidar, the other big advantage of the X1C over the P1S is that it supports more materials, no?
BTW, any thoughts how the Bambu P1S compares to Infimech TX?
After installing a hardened steel nozzle, i have not found anything that the x1c can print but the p1s cannot. There may be something but its probably really niche.
I had not heard of the infimech before just now. I took a quick peak at it and it looks like a knockoff of the creality k1. I have not printed with either printer so i am not the best for comparing but i will say this. There are two things that i belive bambu has done better than any other company. 1 is they made a good multi material handling system and 2 they linked everything together via easy to use software. I belive bambu is still the king in both of these areas.
I ordered the P1S with AMS but the whole waiting for them to ship because it's back order has me considering canceling that order and just going to Microcenter and buying the X1C... I don't know though, seems like a giant waste of 500 additional dollars to just wait for 2 more weeks at this point. Especially when I have another 3D printer already. but I'm impatient and I'm not sure I can wait an additional 2 weeks... I guess there's also Microcenter's 15 day return policy 🙂
Having been using the P1S and X1C together now for a while i can tell you i am much happier with the X1C and personally would buy another x1c in the future over the p1s.
@@How2Texan ya, I just hope it's worth the extra 500 dollars. The one thing I've noticed since going to the Bambu series, it feels like I'm using a lot more filament but it also could be because I'm printing a lot more haha.
@97JoMiller so i had a similar experience. The amount of things like brims, and support material have sky rocketed since bambu came into my life. I am not even including the stuff from the poop chute in that, which really isn't that much unless you are doing intense multi color printing. You will be happy with your x1c. I trust my p1s but i trust my x1c implicitly. So nice knowing i wont come back to a birdnest that waisted half a roll of filament. Ai detection rocks.
see that's the funny thing, I've come back to 3 birds nest in the last 2 days. I thought I shouldn't have those experiences so it kind of surprised me... prints just come off of the build plate and it becomes a mess... with that being said, it's been with my off brand build plate as well as cheap filament. When i use the bambu plate and good PLA+ it's been flawless.@@How2Texan
W content
Waitting for my P1S with AMS I just Order, I couln't justify paying extra for the X1C, specially since my current printer I build myself and already print neautifull but is slow.
I am sure you will love your p1s.
I have found that the P1 has more limited wifi. YMMV
Interesting. I haven't really had wifi problems, but mine is in the same room as the wifi router. Thanks for sharing. Please Let us know if you find out more. I hope you will consider subscribing 😀
Done@@How2Texan
One option you can Just add another 4k POE camera to the P1Ps for less than $50...
True. But your still not getting all of the features of the x1c
Dhaam man should be sponserd
👍
Cool comparison, I just wish this wasn't filmed from what looks like the P1S camera.
Was there something in particular i could try to improve? I am still new to this format so there is allot to learn. I know my lighting is really bad but i am working on that. Thanks for the feedback. I hope i can count on more constructive criticism in the future.
@@How2TexanI'd upgrade audio first.
Get a lav mic, or a wireless rode go or dji mic.
Audio is far more important than video
@ChristophLehner i am looking at the dji mics but do not have the funds right now. Hopefully by years end though
You could always donate to get him the quality you prefer 😅
You miss PA, PC support ...
You are correct. Thanks for the insight. I hope to see more from you in the future.
I bought a P1s and now I’m selling all my bed slingers
I have heard that from many people when talking about bambu printers. Glad you love yours and home to see more comments from you.
Yeah let's not talk about how the p1s has less out of the box material support.
@TheGamersRace well this video was only going over things that i hadn't heard other people talking about. Multiple people had covered this already so i didn't bring it up.
@@How2Texan I rarely hear anyone talk about it. The X1C has pathetic material support out of the box, and the p1s is even worse. For $1500 I should be able to print at least the basic "exotic" materials, such as PPS-CF.
@TheGamersRace consider the target audience. I personally can't Name another printer that is less money, just as easy to use, doesn't require hours or even days of careful assembly, consistently produces high quality prints, and can print exotic materials. If you know of one let me know so i can buy one 😀
@@How2Texan This is why I'm waiting for their new printer to come out. Two years ago I'd agree with you, and in some aspects they still dominate, such as quality control, but in the list you just provided there are better options now. One recent example being the qidi plus 4. It has just a hair more features than the Bambu, but those features give it so much more versatility. What it lacks in some of your comparisons, it makes up for in the extra features and lower price. Actively heated chamber, 370c hotend, bigger volume, ceramic heat break, etc. other companies are catching on, and Bambu is slipping hard with their mediocre specs that no longer push the boundaries, relying on gimmicky AI and lidar bs that while people do enjoy, is not as enjoyable as a versatile yet reliable printing experience. They've got the reliable, they need to get the versatile down now or people are going to look elsewhere.
@TheGamersRace specs are not everything. I have used qidi printers. Even for the price, i was disappointed, and their customer service was, in my experience, worse than bambu. I honestly had an easier time and better prints with an ender 3 than with the qidi. I have also seen reviews for a few of the qidi released sense bambu hit the market. While none of those reviews were terrible, they also weren't glowing endorsements. Bambus new machine should be launched by next quarter. I am not sure it will entirely close the gap spec wise because again, bambu has a target audience, but i suspect it will be a new game changer in its own right. I'm very excited about it.
I don't think the features you mention warrant such a high difference in price.
Some do, some dont. If we all thought the same we wouldn't need videos like this at all. Thanks for your input.
You talk about future software updates, in one year the X1C is over the Hillerød. Sorry
I am really not sure what you mean by over the Hillerød? Not sure if that is a type or has some local meaning i am unaware of...could you explain?
Одна причина это возможность новых функций в будущем,а для остальных перечисленных достаточно не быть ебланом и просто смотреть что ты делаешь
You are correct that most of these differences can be compensated for with just being careful but i am constantly doing dozens of things at the same time. I lost half a roll of filament when i walked away from the p1s but that wouldn't have happened with the x1c spaghetti detection. In my personal opinion the x1c is worth its price but the p1s is a really good value too.
Thanks for commenting. Hope to hear more from you soon.
720p? really? the video looks like crap mate.
Thanks for pointing out the 720p...i uploaded in 1080 but YT converted it down. Looking into it briefly, it appears i need to use a different 1080 format to prevent this from happening. I will look into this issue for future videos.
@@How2Texanhonesty is a rare feat these days? happy to help out sir. i calls them as i sees them
so x1c is for comfy-lazy avarage american with all that sensors; and p1s is for rest of the world with rational functionality 🤪🤣
Lol, that is funny. But i think the x1c is practical in business. Imagine if your printing really expensive material on a regular basis. Spaghetti detection could easily save thousands of dollars over the life of the machine. Or a more practical example. Imagine you as a maker are working on something important with a deadline. Everything looked good but when you walked away it started going sideways. Spaghetti detection could warn you of the failure in time to restart the print or if you had very little of a particular filament left Spaghetti detection could prevent you from wasting it and needing to buy another spool.
you are %100 right for printing as bussiness model but i was talking about home-user. Otherwise i would fo straight X1C if im gonna make money from it. Most of us can't even afford 2 printers lol. So I just get the P1S without AMS.@@How2Texan
There are a ton of important differences you didn't talk about, like the hardened filament gearheads and nozzle on the X1C, this is a terrible video.
Those had already been spoken about in many peoples videos. You can easily find dozens of videos that list easily found information like that. I didn't want to make a video that was just copying what all the early reviewers had already said. I wanted to give more unique points of view. That is why this video was titled Unspoken Differences. These are differences that are not spoken about in very many videos. I hope this knowledge makes the video at least a little better in your eyes. Thanks for watching.
I appreciated him talking about the things most others don't mention in a short video. Don't need another 20 minute video reading the spec sheet that everybody already did.
And thats why i got the X1E🫡
Did you really? I would love to test PP in the x1e. I have a feeling the chamber heater would make the difference.
@@How2Texan it helps so much warping is now non existent due to it
I'm trying to decide between these 2 models currently, getting the ams regardless. I was thinking of the p1s, but realized with the extra features of the x1c, my partner would find it easier to plug and print her little do-dads. Great video!
Thanks for the comment. They are both good machines but the X1C is just on another level when it comes to user friendliness