Another great video. Although not an engine swap I've seen here in the UK, it's still interesting to watch! I'd recommend doing an initial engine flush with some not-too-expensive oil to get rid of the carbon/tar deposits. It may need a couple of goes but at least do a flush before each oil change.
I hope to make it out to the track at least once this year to shake it down. 🤞 The Permatex Ultra Grey RTV instructions say to assemble finger tight then let it sit for 1 hour before torquing down, so I did as it said. Check it out here www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/grey-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-grey-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-5-oz/
I'm prepping an engine for the same swap right now, and your videos are a great guide for me. Excellent job with these videos. I have an issue with my motor mount touching my starter bolt. Did you have any clearance issues between the motor mount and starter?
A touch less than 30lbs, which is still a lot. About the EPS that install was on my friend's white NA which had a depowered rack. Mine had hydraulic PS from the factory and I'm opting for a similar setup for the Ecotec.
Thanks for sharing! I’m currently collecting parts for the swap into a Miata exoskeleton I’m building. I was wondering if you happen to know the thickness of the cooling side adapters ? Thanks
Have the same motor in my Baja bug. Had it rebuilt last year and already giving big problems. Have a donor sitting in garage. Did the spray work on the cylinders? Have same issues with donor engine
After installing and "breaking in" the swap, I performed another compression test. I didn't film it but I followed standard procedure to warm up the car to operating temperature first. The numbers turned out great, around 185/195 dry/wet across the board. Was it the KleenFlo? I dunno for sure. I have a leak down tester now, so I'll be doing that test soon.
@@kokrket for street application its not necessary but under track/race duty blocking that intake mani vacuum port between the middle 2 runners is recommended to reduce crankcase pressure. I haven't run back to back tests, but I trust the endurance racers and FB group reports.
@kokrket I just did the leak down test and the motor continues to impress with 3-4% for each cylinder. Get an Amazon tester and give yours a try, you might be surprised!
I appreciate the build series. Not the motor I would choose but am enjoying the journey.
Thx man!
Awesome! Very well researched! Excited for this project!
Appreciate the support, thx for the comment. 👍
Love the audio editing for the torque wrench and the tap 😂
Thanks for noticing, it wasn't an accident!
Janky as hell. I like it.
this is so exciting!
Great video, really like the step by step info! Very interested to see the final product!
Thanks for following along and I certainly hope it all comes together soon 🤞
Another great video. Although not an engine swap I've seen here in the UK, it's still interesting to watch! I'd recommend doing an initial engine flush with some not-too-expensive oil to get rid of the carbon/tar deposits. It may need a couple of goes but at least do a flush before each oil change.
Received this advice from a couple friends, they recommend Motul engine flush. Any ones you've used and would recommend?
@@mostlyuselessgarage I use Wynns Engine flush before each oil change.
Great format and informative videos. Keep up the good work. :)
Thank you, glad someone likes it!
Awesome Video. Can't wait to see it out at TMP! Any reason to not just bolt up the oil pan right aways before the rtv sets?
I hope to make it out to the track at least once this year to shake it down. 🤞 The Permatex Ultra Grey RTV instructions say to assemble finger tight then let it sit for 1 hour before torquing down, so I did as it said. Check it out here www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/grey-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-grey-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-5-oz/
I'm prepping an engine for the same swap right now, and your videos are a great guide for me. Excellent job with these videos. I have an issue with my motor mount touching my starter bolt. Did you have any clearance issues between the motor mount and starter?
The clearance was really close but it doesn't touch. I believe there are different models of starter that are shorter.
That 35lb oil pan is crazy. Since you installed the powersteering pump are you going back to hydraulic from your electric you installed last year?
A touch less than 30lbs, which is still a lot. About the EPS that install was on my friend's white NA which had a depowered rack. Mine had hydraulic PS from the factory and I'm opting for a similar setup for the Ecotec.
That motor looks like it has seen some extended oil changes. I think you should have gone the extra mile and replaced the rings..
Ask me how I know.
How do you know?
I see alot of ecotec boosted motors blowing up
I've seen non-FI Ecotecs blow up too. In track and race conditions, these motors need strong oil pressure and capacity.
Thanks for sharing! I’m currently collecting parts for the swap into a Miata exoskeleton I’m building. I was wondering if you happen to know the thickness of the cooling side adapters ? Thanks
Exoskeleton Miata ... sounds ominous and awesome. By cooling side adapter thickness, you mean the engine mounts?
The thermostat spacers. Thanks
Shoot me an email, mostlyuselessgarage@gmail.com
Have the same motor in my Baja bug. Had it rebuilt last year and already giving big problems. Have a donor sitting in garage. Did the spray work on the cylinders? Have same issues with donor engine
After installing and "breaking in" the swap, I performed another compression test. I didn't film it but I followed standard procedure to warm up the car to operating temperature first. The numbers turned out great, around 185/195 dry/wet across the board. Was it the KleenFlo? I dunno for sure. I have a leak down tester now, so I'll be doing that test soon.
@@mostlyuselessgarage was also really interested in the reason behind plugging the hole behind the air intake manifold? Never seen that done
@@kokrket for street application its not necessary but under track/race duty blocking that intake mani vacuum port between the middle 2 runners is recommended to reduce crankcase pressure. I haven't run back to back tests, but I trust the endurance racers and FB group reports.
@@mostlyuselessgarage appreciate the feed back
@kokrket I just did the leak down test and the motor continues to impress with 3-4% for each cylinder. Get an Amazon tester and give yours a try, you might be surprised!
Becoming less useless every video.
Slightly less 🤣