Brilliant video, and you did not get too annoyed! I have done a few jobs on my Jaguar 2.0d 2007, and there are moments when I get very annoyed with the car.
I have done this job by unbolting the ball joint from the wishbone and then sliding it out the strut with the hub. This means you don’t have to drop the subframe to get the spring in, or use compressors like you were trying to. It means you have to undo the driveshaft nut and steering arm but that’s no issue. Would’ve saved you a lot of faff with the wishbone and you would have then been able to drill that pinch bolt out with the whole hub and strut assembly off the car.
You must have missed the bit at the start where i said I would not take the hub or the steering joint off - mainly because they would be damaged and need replacing and then the whole lot would need tracking at the garage. The wishbone was easy to get off as I had taken it off to replace it before. As it was I didn't need the spring compressors - but lesson learnt.
@@johnnysevengun Fair enough, perhaps it was no harder than what I did in that case. I did hear what you said, but don’t see what could be damaged. Since you took the lower wishbone off I would argue that you should have it tracked again anyway. That will have as much effect on the tracking as unbolting the track rod end from the hub would. My method involves unbolting the balljoint from the wishbone, but I realise lots of them are riveted and they wouldn’t be worth the hassle to drill out. Taking the balljoint out of the wishbone does have quite an effect on tracking though in fairness, whereas where you have unbolted the wishbone may have less.
You certainly had a hard time with those wretched bolts. I tend to use a much larger torch ran off a propane bottle on such suborn bolts as you do need a lot of heat at times. Great video :-)
The other side was worse. The pinch bolt had a coned tip that I had to cut off first to be able to drill it out. It was completely seized and I ended up cutting it in half as well.
Great helpful video of working on a car in the driveway just using "home" tools - great it passed the MOT! Did you have to do any more sill welding this time around? thanks again.
This was an absolute devil of a job but no way near as hard as the other side. On that side the spring was not broken so the strut was at full tension. I spent four hours trying to get the pinch bolt out. I drilled off all the threaded part and then took off the strut. Then I had to cut what was left of the pinch bolt in half and drive it out while turning it with the impact driver. I even disconnected the tie-rod so I could turn the strut more to get at it. It was so corroded it was never going to let go. All the other bits came off easily as I had removed them before. If there is an easier way on a rusted up old Jag I would be glad to know it.
Great video. How much would it cost manufacturers to simply use everything underneath a car in stainless steel? Just think how easy this job would have been and all the other jobs you've struggled with.
Stainless steel can cost a lot more depending on the grade and it is also heavier so I guess its all about the bean counters getting the lowest price to get a good profit margin. It used to be said that the Mini made the company one pound for every one off the production line. That is not sustainable. A lot of parts are anodised or galvanised but as the warranty is only for 7 years usually it is not in the manufacturers interest to over engineer. That said though the cars would last forever if looked after and there was no salt on the road!
Don't buy cheap impact wrenches, you can be sure (even if they can open lug nuts without any effort) they are too weak. Even the ones for 300 dollars are too weak for reall rusty screws or nuts. I went the expensive way and bought myself an Ingersoll Rand for abot 700 dollars (Milwaukee is good as well but as expensive as the Ingersoll Rand). No problem getting my strut bolts off from my Alfa Romeo 164 which are known to be a real pain in the ass. I'm quite sure that the Ingersoll Rand would have loosened your bolt in a few seconds. I tried opening my nuts with a pipe and lots of WD 40 and other stuff (ice spray etc.) for hours. No chance. Ingersoll Rand - in about 5 seconds the nut was off. With all the things you tried out, in the end a more expensive impact would have been cheaper over time and gave you a lot less hassle.
I feel I had this conversation before. The Ingersoll Rand costs £650 and I don't do enough car work to justify that kind of professional price. The cheapo £70 Parkside was not man enough for this job but it roared the nuts off our Fiesta front suspension with no problems.
If I did that I would probably destroy the rod end and have to replace it and then pay the garage to do the tracking. To be honest I was a bit scared of undoing the drive shaft. As I had already taken off the wishbone not long ago it was the easy option.
It is always much harder the first time because I have some misdirected faith that I can get the bolts out without destroying them. Next time I shall drill the pinch bolt out straight away and then take off the wishbone.
@@johnnysevengun I still can't figure out this rear knocking noise. I've had rear shocks changed, still there. Thinking bushes on the rear hub carrier. Although I don't have a press or anything to do those.
Knocking often comes from worn ARB bushes or worn drop links. Both easy to change and quite cheap. Don't buy ebay ones as they are all fakes. Go to Eurocarparts or similar.
Brilliant video, and you did not get too annoyed! I have done a few jobs on my Jaguar 2.0d 2007, and there are moments when I get very annoyed with the car.
I have done this job by unbolting the ball joint from the wishbone and then sliding it out the strut with the hub. This means you don’t have to drop the subframe to get the spring in, or use compressors like you were trying to. It means you have to undo the driveshaft nut and steering arm but that’s no issue. Would’ve saved you a lot of faff with the wishbone and you would have then been able to drill that pinch bolt out with the whole hub and strut assembly off the car.
You must have missed the bit at the start where i said I would not take the hub or the steering joint off - mainly because they would be damaged and need replacing and then the whole lot would need tracking at the garage. The wishbone was easy to get off as I had taken it off to replace it before. As it was I didn't need the spring compressors - but lesson learnt.
@@johnnysevengun Fair enough, perhaps it was no harder than what I did in that case.
I did hear what you said, but don’t see what could be damaged. Since you took the lower wishbone off I would argue that you should have it tracked again anyway. That will have as much effect on the tracking as unbolting the track rod end from the hub would.
My method involves unbolting the balljoint from the wishbone, but I realise lots of them are riveted and they wouldn’t be worth the hassle to drill out. Taking the balljoint out of the wishbone does have quite an effect on tracking though in fairness, whereas where you have unbolted the wishbone may have less.
We learn by our mistakes and you have prevented me from making some of mine. Thankyou.
Glad to help
Thank you sir! Great lesson, as always.
great video, i have just changed my shocks and springs on the x type
You certainly had a hard time with those wretched bolts. I tend to use a much larger torch ran off a propane bottle on such suborn bolts as you do need a lot of heat at times. Great video :-)
The other side was worse. The pinch bolt had a coned tip that I had to cut off first to be able to drill it out. It was completely seized and I ended up cutting it in half as well.
Great helpful video of working on a car in the driveway just using "home" tools - great it passed the MOT! Did you have to do any more sill welding this time around? thanks again.
No need. The sills have been completely replaced. (in sections over the years) with thicker steel.
I loved watching your video, but you made it a lot harder than you had to.
This was an absolute devil of a job but no way near as hard as the other side. On that side the spring was not broken so the strut was at full tension. I spent four hours trying to get the pinch bolt out. I drilled off all the threaded part and then took off the strut. Then I had to cut what was left of the pinch bolt in half and drive it out while turning it with the impact driver. I even disconnected the tie-rod so I could turn the strut more to get at it. It was so corroded it was never going to let go. All the other bits came off easily as I had removed them before. If there is an easier way on a rusted up old Jag I would be glad to know it.
10 out of 10 for perseverance on that Bucking Folt, sure was stubborn
Every bolt on this car was seized - If you watch some of the other videos I have drilled plenty of them out.
Great video. How much would it cost manufacturers to simply use everything underneath a car in stainless steel? Just think how easy this job would have been and all the other jobs you've struggled with.
Stainless steel can cost a lot more depending on the grade and it is also heavier so I guess its all about the bean counters getting the lowest price to get a good profit margin. It used to be said that the Mini made the company one pound for every one off the production line. That is not sustainable. A lot of parts are anodised or galvanised but as the warranty is only for 7 years usually it is not in the manufacturers interest to over engineer. That said though the cars would last forever if looked after and there was no salt on the road!
Cool keep the video coming
At some point I shall have replaced the whole car!
love these videos,, i am terrified to bring heat near the car lol
Don't blame you. That is why I use very small flames.
Looking the same job right here
Good luck. Heat is your friend.
Don't buy cheap impact wrenches, you can be sure (even if they can open lug nuts without any effort) they are too weak. Even the ones for 300 dollars are too weak for reall rusty screws or nuts. I went the expensive way and bought myself an Ingersoll Rand for abot 700 dollars (Milwaukee is good as well but as expensive as the Ingersoll Rand). No problem getting my strut bolts off from my Alfa Romeo 164 which are known to be a real pain in the ass. I'm quite sure that the Ingersoll Rand would have loosened your bolt in a few seconds. I tried opening my nuts with a pipe and lots of WD 40 and other stuff (ice spray etc.) for hours. No chance. Ingersoll Rand - in about 5 seconds the nut was off. With all the things you tried out, in the end a more expensive impact would have been cheaper over time and gave you a lot less hassle.
I feel I had this conversation before. The Ingersoll Rand costs £650 and I don't do enough car work to justify that kind of professional price. The cheapo £70 Parkside was not man enough for this job but it roared the nuts off our Fiesta front suspension with no problems.
i found it easier to remove the whole hub with the leg and get it in the shed.
If I did that I would probably destroy the rod end and have to replace it and then pay the garage to do the tracking. To be honest I was a bit scared of undoing the drive shaft. As I had already taken off the wishbone not long ago it was the easy option.
@@johnnysevengun i was having a bored day so i replaced track rod ends as well as suspension and drop links, lol, bored now
That does not look fun at all. Good job there.
It is always much harder the first time because I have some misdirected faith that I can get the bolts out without destroying them. Next time I shall drill the pinch bolt out straight away and then take off the wishbone.
@@johnnysevengun nightmare job. I have the same impact. Good bit of kit.
@@johnnysevengun I still can't figure out this rear knocking noise. I've had rear shocks changed, still there. Thinking bushes on the rear hub carrier. Although I don't have a press or anything to do those.
Knocking often comes from worn ARB bushes or worn drop links. Both easy to change and quite cheap. Don't buy ebay ones as they are all fakes. Go to Eurocarparts or similar.