Another good one. Looking forward to the fender install - been sitting on some VO fenders for a few years - this should motivate me to follow along and finally get them on a bike.
I too may have to give tubeless a try. I hate mess and having to remember to do something months away, which is why I've been on tubes forever. Plus, I rarely ever get flats where I live, so that's another reason I've never seen the need to switch. But being that it's getting harder to find regular clincher tires/rims and I'll have to fight with tubeless tire beads seating anyway, I might have to just (begrudgingly) join everyone else.
I lived with their constant need of attention for about a year before donating the whole mess to my local bike collective. Yet another, "game changer" that's much more of a solution in search of a problem than anything else. Oh, and sales, can't forget about the industry juicing the sales.
My experience is tyres going porous and de-laminating within 11 months, mess, and anodizing being corroded where it contacted S N T’s. Gone back to tubes.
Looks like front generator hub takes Centerlock but rear hub takes 6-bolt rotors so a little mix and match is in order. No reason to delay shooting the video.
Good eye. We had the wheel already from a previous build, but didn't notice it had the rotor on until we were mostly done filming. We'll go through rotor install when we do that part of the series.
Frankly, I've been underwhelmed by the claims of the tubeless tire crowd. The testing I've seen contradicts the claim that going tubeless leads to greater speed. There is also the problem of knowing when to add sealant since sealant eventually dries out and there's no practical way to see when more sealant is needed.. And If sealant isn't added when needed, the tire can spontaneously lose pressure. And when more and more sealant is added over time, the tire gets heavier and heavier. Frankly, I'm not sure in what conditions riding tubeless provides any real benefit. The problem of punctures is much less of a problem today than in the past. First, people are not trashing the roads as they once did and second, more and more drinks are sold in aluminum or plastic rather than glass with the only the exception of brown glass for beer. So if one wants to really minimize the possibility of a puncture there are two things one can do: 1) Run the widest tire the frame will accept;; 2) Reduce the inflation of the tire. I used to ride with my tires at 120 PSI but in time I was advised to reduce the pressure and started riding at 80 PSI and I was pleased to find that my pedaling effort did not noticeably increase. I'm now riding at 50-60 PSI on 35mm tires. The future for most riders for more trouble-free rides is the TPU tube. There were real problems with the first generation of these tubes but with better valves and slightly thicker walls, they are just as fast as latex but require reinflation much less often. These tubes should become more available as sellers benefit from rider feedback. Finally a positive note. While sealant is a poor substitute for tubes, the advent of TC compatible rims and tires provides a substantial safety benefit. There is an interlock between the tire bead and the rim. In the advent of a puncture, the tire stays affixed to the rim making it far more likely that the rider can avoid a crash. With old style tires and tubes, the tire bead would fall away from the rim and in an extreme case, the tire could come of the rim almost entirely. It is this advantage that has kept the tubular tire in use in racing for long after its performance has been eclipsed by the best wired-on tires.
That looked deceivingly easy
Another good one. Looking forward to the fender install - been sitting on some VO fenders for a few years - this should motivate me to follow along and finally get them on a bike.
I too may have to give tubeless a try. I hate mess and having to remember to do something months away, which is why I've been on tubes forever. Plus, I rarely ever get flats where I live, so that's another reason I've never seen the need to switch. But being that it's getting harder to find regular clincher tires/rims and I'll have to fight with tubeless tire beads seating anyway, I might have to just (begrudgingly) join everyone else.
I lived with their constant need of attention for about a year before donating the whole mess to my local bike collective. Yet another, "game changer" that's much more of a solution in search of a problem than anything else. Oh, and sales, can't forget about the industry juicing the sales.
Don’t do it.
My experience is tyres going porous and de-laminating within 11 months, mess, and anodizing being corroded where it contacted S N T’s. Gone back to tubes.
What width rim tape is recommended for the Voyager rims?
magnifique🍊🍊🍊🍊🍊🍊🍊🍊🍊🍊
You MAY have converted me to tubeless!
i love this!! go igor!!!!
Maybe I’m missing something. I’m just curious why you’ve got a disc brake on the front but not on the back.
Looks like front generator hub takes Centerlock but rear hub takes 6-bolt rotors so a little mix and match is in order. No reason to delay shooting the video.
Good eye. We had the wheel already from a previous build, but didn't notice it had the rotor on until we were mostly done filming. We'll go through rotor install when we do that part of the series.
Frankly, I've been underwhelmed by the claims of the tubeless tire crowd. The testing I've seen contradicts the claim that going tubeless leads to greater speed. There is also the problem of knowing when to add sealant since sealant eventually dries out and there's no practical way to see when more sealant is needed.. And If sealant isn't added when needed, the tire can spontaneously lose pressure. And when more and more sealant is added over time, the tire gets heavier and heavier. Frankly, I'm not sure in what conditions riding tubeless provides any real benefit.
The problem of punctures is much less of a problem today than in the past. First, people are not trashing the roads as they once did and second, more and more drinks are sold in aluminum or plastic rather than glass with the only the exception of brown glass for beer.
So if one wants to really minimize the possibility of a puncture there are two things one can do: 1) Run the widest tire the frame will accept;; 2) Reduce the inflation of the tire. I used to ride with my tires at 120 PSI but in time I was advised to reduce the pressure and started riding at 80 PSI and I was pleased to find that my pedaling effort did not noticeably increase. I'm now riding at 50-60 PSI on 35mm tires.
The future for most riders for more trouble-free rides is the TPU tube. There were real problems with the first generation of these tubes but with better valves and slightly thicker walls, they are just as fast as latex but require reinflation much less often. These tubes should become more available as sellers benefit from rider feedback.
Finally a positive note. While sealant is a poor substitute for tubes, the advent of TC compatible rims and tires provides a substantial safety benefit. There is an interlock between the tire bead and the rim. In the advent of a puncture, the tire stays affixed to the rim making it far more likely that the rider can avoid a crash. With old style tires and tubes, the tire bead would fall away from the rim and in an extreme case, the tire could come of the rim almost entirely. It is this advantage that has kept the tubular tire in use in racing for long after its performance has been eclipsed by the best wired-on tires.
You lost me at the fenders, I'm sorry.
Don’t bother tubeless are crap