I always use a syringe as it’s much cleaner. Just a tip which is only valid for using the syringe method. Blow the tire up before adding the milk, so the tire already sits perfectly on the rim. Release the air and then put the milk in so it can’t get out between the rim and tire.
I just began setting up tubless for myself after paying the bike shop WAY TOO MUCH the first time. I did find a few ways to mess things up slightly. One way to learn I guess. Thank you very much for making this video it helped me alot.
I always seat the bead dry, then squirt in the sealant through the core-less valve with a bottle applicator that has a top that’s a perfect fit for the presto valve. No fuss no muss no bother!
Thanks for the tips. Here is another one: Use an inner tube to sit the tire, open the tire on one side so to get the tube out. Put the tire back. This way you will only have to work to sit one side of tire the other one being already sat by the tube. Takes time, but halves the chances of failure.
The double POP when the tire seats is SO FREEKIN SATISFYING!! :) I have a little air compressor, so I've never had an issue. I prefer Orange Seal, as it lasts a loooong time (10-14 Months for me), and the bottle comes with a straw to put the sealant in through the valve stem.
Yes, I do it that way too. Just an added tip: I always thoroughly clean the inside of the valve tube BEFORE screwing in the valve inner. You don't want sealant gunk in those threads making your valve sticky.
@@bruce.KAY-bike-drifter I wish you would have replied to this two weeks ago. 🤣 I had a valve all sorts of gunked up, turns out it was probs the valve stem like you mentioned. Lesson learned for sure!
Thanks for the videos you put out there for both experienced and novices. The one topic I'd add would be pinned vs. welded seams and the challenges especially with pinned wheels. Of course, we're referencing budget wheel for most mainstream MTB's.
It is faff compared to just putting a new tube in, which is cheaper too. However less punctures from silly sized thorns is a bonus. Horses for courses.
All sounds great when spoken, reality some tyre and rim combos are a nightmare can easily be 1h per tyre. Add kushcore into the mix and its a 2 man job
I watched this last night and went tubeless today. Some great tips. Pumping without the valve in, and using an air shot worked so easy. I kept the existing tape in because it looked fine and very well stuck. Hope it works ok
For those struggling with this, it may not be you; it might be the rim. My DT Swiss M1700s were a bear to get to seat right, especially without a compressor. My Hunt wheels and my daughter’s Stan’s Flow will seat with a hand pump
I haven't failed yet setting up tubeless. I have been doing it for years on my truck! 😅 All jokes aside I really haven't failed yet. Even my hardtail with ghetto tubeless sets its bead easily.
Struggling to seat... Get a presta to schrader adapter (£2) and take wheel to ur local garage forecourt to use their car tyre pump... But put it in 'flat tyre' mode if its a machine or u won't get fast enough air flow.
I am seriously considering going tubeless. i love running tubes but I'm just tired of the only weak spot on my bike being the tire setup. My rear Continental Race King tire has a permanent wobble to it now because of a flat I received from running over a screw and not realizing it until the tire and tube was completely flat (I was wearing headphones with music on). I have to use my older oem tire that's in better condition because I don't want to permanently take the rim out of true.
The most important preparation is to ensure that rims and tyres are very clean. Using isopropyl alcohol on a clean lint free rag to be achieve perfectly clean surfaces, particularly the inside of the rim wall and its hook, and the outside of the tyre wall and its bead.
Watching s car receive new tyres makes me think the bicycle wheel needs to reinvented somehow for tubeless Make it so the spokes don’t protude through the outer edge of the rim It may be heavier, but the way tubless MTB wheels are set up now makes me think there’s room for improvement somewhere along the trail to make it more reliable
Remove the screw from an old valve insert, screw the top end into the end of the plastic tube and screw the other end into the valve stem for no spill sealant insertion
First question: How to choose proper rim tape width. Do I pick the one that's exactly the width of inner width of the rim? Or do I pick the one that's slightly narrower or wider?
If the rim bed is concave, the rim tape should be slightly wider than the rim width; e.g., I use 21mm tape for 19mm rim width for my gravel bike wheels.
Literally waiting for new tyre to be delivered in the next hour or so lol will be going tubeless (hopefully not much hassle) fortunately I don't need rim tape as the wheel rim is sealed so one less task to worry about 😏
Yes some wheels like mavic the spoke holes are sealed and won’t affect tubeless mine are mavic ust no rim tape needed and inflate easily with a floor pump
My biggest struggle is unseating the tyre after sealant has glued the tyre to the rim extremely well. Simply pushing with tyre lever does not work, even using my body weight is a struggle. I guess I will have to just repeat it many times until it eventually loosen. Eventually it probably will, but working on it today, not sure when I will be finished. I will definitely work on it for a while. I won't cut the tyre off like some do when that happens. 😁After a lot of repeated tries it eventually unseated, I kneeled down on the rim, and pushed the tyre using both hands, I tried at multiple locations, but when it made a gap at one spot I continued there, it eventually unseated, fully there, so I continued around the until whole it was fully unseated all around the rim. I run Cush Core currently use Gorilla tape but trying Stan's now, but not impressed roughly cut, tearing, hard to tape. Not as easy as in this video, I won't be continuing with Stan's. Problem with gorilla tape is adhesive is hard to remove, I should have tried with a sealant and adhesive cleaner from Muc Off, heard good things. But Gorilla tape also is not air tight, so needs a ride before it seals. But application is easy. But removal onc eit is worn some can stick well and it tears leaving some on. But key is to be gentle and slow removing it. But if really worn its unavoidable to have some adhesive, but Isopropyl alcohol won't remove it easily, it loosens it up, but involves a lot of rubbing with a rag. I struggled to find decent rim tape in stock. But Stan's is not it, nor is Gorilla tape I've not seen any reviews of the Peaty's rim tape but might try it. Maybe Muc Off too.
I have switched from Stan’s tape to Much-Off. I think MO is much better. To get the tight bead off the rim there is a giant tire lever made for use with Cush Core inserts. I don’t use inserts, but the big lever makes unseating the tire bead easier. Also, you can set the wheel on the ground and stand on the tire on each side to use your body weight to pop the bead off the rim; wheel horizontally on the ground perhaps on top of some rags or cardboard.
@@mattkavanaugh5623 None of that worked, maybe it helped, I don't know. I edited my comment, to tell what I did. But I just had to do what I usually do kneel down on the rim and push the tyre with both hands, it eventually unseated but my hands hurt like being hit bu a fast football. I have Cush Core lever, but that does not help with this issue. I just had to repeat the pushing of the tyre. There is also a method where you interlock fingers and clamp with palms and fold the tyre until it unseats, but I've not tried that.
Im new to tubeless and I successfully set up the first wheel and the second wheel would not seat after trying all the tips above and also useing a topeak joe blow to blast the air in. I couldn't do it after about 15 attempts. My next door neighbour came to the rescue with a air compressor and the tyre seated straight away.
Yes, I have had the same experience in the past. However, then I learned to seat the tyre on the rim first, without any messy sealant inside. I try to get the bead seated as neatly as possible all around by hand or with a tyre lever before pumping air in. Yes, I know, some difficult wheel/tyre combos need a blast of air through an empty valve stem using a compressor or a pump with a special cylinder. Only after you have the bead well seated all around, add the messy tyre sealant through the valve stem. Break the job down into easy steps.
I have some OEM wheels that came on a 2020 Summum. 26mm internal width, and trying to fit 2.6 tyres on is impossible. Never had issues before, with any other tyre/wheel combo.
Found muc-off valves don't have the right rubber grommets for any of my rims... So I had to bodge it in.. Was v surprised tbh... They need diff grommets supplied.
time stamps are sooo user friendly!!! thank you. you were not clear enough at the end on how or why removing the valve stem will help inflate a tough to seal tire. ???? missed the concept after re watching that pit. great timely presentation for those exiting winter.
Hey Greg, essentially removing the valve stem helps ensure maximum airflow from the pump into the tyre. Sometimes, if used, the valve stems get a little clogged with old sealant which can result in a 'trickle' of air rather than the rush necessary to get the tire on the bead
In the video, she said every 6 months for the Peaty sealant. I'm using Stan's sealant and have always gotten away with changing once every 12 months. (This video reminded me I'm now due to update the sealant on my fat bike's tyres.)
I would try an air reservoir canister to use with a track pump. I have a track pump with a built-in reservoir (Bontranger Flash Charger) and it works well.
Another person made a good suggestion that is relatively cheap. Get a presta-to-schraeder converter nut. Screw it onto your presta valve stem, without the valve inside. Go to your local service station and use their car-tyre pump to blast a strong shot of air into your tyre.
When inflating the tire with your sealand inside, where should the value stem be when inflating? 12 o-clock position? 2 o-clock? 6 o-clock? Or it doesn't matter?
Tubeless seems like a regression from tubes. Take the convenience of an inner tube and come up with a wacky, messy, time consuming alternative. What happens when you break a spoke? Have to redo the entire thing again. It's like water cooling a pc, yeah, you can, but there's really no reason to
So my rims are “stans arch d” And today I setup tubeless but my rims have a faint line at one part, looks as if it’s where they join together when manufactured but air is escaping through this join line, any ideas how I can correct this?
@@jaredkirby1237 I had a similar issue. I removed the tire. Got some super thin cyanoacrylate crazy glue. I applied at sparingly to the join in the rim, both on the inside as well as the outside. I did two coats with a few hours in between and allowed 24 to fully cure. It is held up for several years now.
#ASKGMBNTECH - Love the program!! How do I choose the correct with of rim tap for tubeless conversion? With different rim specs it gets very confusing!
The wheel manufacturer has it in their spec for your wheel. If the wheel is the stock one which came with your bike then your bike manufacturer will also have the size in their spec.
What tape sticks as well as Gorilla tape? Gorilla tape is easy to apply, but is more porous than rim tape.. most rim tapes I've tried either tear , or don't sit well in the rim no matter how tight I pull it, or just don't stick no matter how clean the rim is.
@@mattkavanaugh5623 Stans was aweful, I like Muck off, but it's hard to get here. Muck off's finishing strip doesn't hold, otherwise it's the best thing I've used.
From experience, I think gorilla tape is the best option. Peatys is far to thin, so u really need to go twice, so not recommended. Race face factory tape is great... But hard to get.
Getting the tyre on is the easy part... Keeping it on, not so much... Never exceed the tyres max pressure, or u will fail when it blows off the rim and decorates ur bike cave in sealant, Mr Bean style! 😬😂
I do one layer of Stans tape and then cover it up with electrical tape. Since the electrical tape is a thinner width you have to do it twice, but the result is perfection! Then some soapy water on the bead to seat the -tyre- tire👍😆
Can someone tell if I can convert a regular rim into a tubeless this way or do I need to get a different rim and tire plus valves thank you for your help
Well I still find it difficult to impossible to seat the tire into the rim... And yeas tried the soapy water thing, got a canister for inflating... And on the other hand I don't really see tubeless as being beneficial over TPU tubes...
You're NOT showing the precision in detail. Tubeless looks to be a-lot of aggravation and time consumption to save a few measly grams of weight. However, since I purchased a pair of rims, not realizing nor the catalog description stating they're "Tubeless only," I am now stuck with'em(no return policy from...Nukeproof), I have to buy a entire tubeless set-up. Aggravating. Hope tubeless works for us big hefty riders.
Unless you're a professional and there's money on the line and you hired a bicycle mechanic we're not there yet with tubeless. Fatter tires with lower pressure will get the job done and keep you riding. Life's too short to be messing around with your tires all day when you can be out riding.
I've found putting soapy water on the beads before inflating helps the grippy rubber move to correct place. Never fails doing this.
This is what I posted. It absolutely does help. Been doing this for years.
Same. The other day I changed tyres on my bike, this made seating the tyres so much easier.
that's gold, without it, your tire most definitely not gonna sit straight on all parts of rim
This is a must👍
Yea if soap isn't available say on the trail even some water helps
I always use a syringe as it’s much cleaner. Just a tip which is only valid for using the syringe method. Blow the tire up before adding the milk, so the tire already sits perfectly on the rim. Release the air and then put the milk in so it can’t get out between the rim and tire.
I just began setting up tubless for myself after paying the bike shop WAY TOO MUCH the first time. I did find a few ways to mess things up slightly. One way to learn I guess. Thank you very much for making this video it helped me alot.
I always seat the bead dry, then squirt in the sealant through the core-less valve with a bottle applicator that has a top that’s a perfect fit for the presto valve. No fuss no muss no bother!
I went tubeless when I built up my nukeproof scout 290 v2. I will never use inner tubes again. Good video as usual
Use a tyre lever to seat the bead manually as far as possible on both sides, then it's pretty easy to seat the rest of it with a regular track pump.
Best tip here, this should be pinned, thanks mate
Could somebody visualize this for me? I don't get this
This is why I'm reluctant, finding myself in the boondocks 30 miles from an air compressor.
Thanks for the tips. Here is another one: Use an inner tube to sit the tire, open the tire on one side so to get the tube out. Put the tire back. This way you will only have to work to sit one side of tire the other one being already sat by the tube. Takes time, but halves the chances of failure.
The double POP when the tire seats is SO FREEKIN SATISFYING!! :)
I have a little air compressor, so I've never had an issue. I prefer Orange Seal, as it lasts a loooong time (10-14 Months for me), and the bottle comes with a straw to put the sealant in through the valve stem.
Yes, I do it that way too. Just an added tip: I always thoroughly clean the inside of the valve tube BEFORE screwing in the valve inner. You don't want sealant gunk in those threads making your valve sticky.
@@bruce.KAY-bike-drifter I wish you would have replied to this two weeks ago. 🤣 I had a valve all sorts of gunked up, turns out it was probs the valve stem like you mentioned. Lesson learned for sure!
@@playgroundchooser Good luck for your future riding. Keep safe and keep well.
I found bike maintenance and operations are easy, BUT, you really gotta know what you're doing. It's a great hobby!
Yes, doing your own maintenance as possible, except when you require expensive special tools, is so satisfying. It is an excellent hobby.
I’m pretty new to the modern mountain biking world. But GMBN consistently proves themselves to be the best.
Thanks for the videos you put out there for both experienced and novices. The one topic I'd add would be pinned vs. welded seams and the challenges especially with pinned wheels. Of course, we're referencing budget wheel for most mainstream MTB's.
Love the tip for taking the valve stem off! Great idea to get more air in quick!
It is faff compared to just putting a new tube in, which is cheaper too. However less punctures from silly sized thorns is a bonus. Horses for courses.
All sounds great when spoken, reality some tyre and rim combos are a nightmare can easily be 1h per tyre. Add kushcore into the mix and its a 2 man job
I watched this last night and went tubeless today. Some great tips. Pumping without the valve in, and using an air shot worked so easy. I kept the existing tape in because it looked fine and very well stuck. Hope it works ok
Just done this with 4 wheels and used a garden sprayer to seat the tyre, saw the hack on RUclips. £12 from Homebase, worked a treat.
For those struggling with this, it may not be you; it might be the rim. My DT Swiss M1700s were a bear to get to seat right, especially without a compressor. My Hunt wheels and my daughter’s Stan’s Flow will seat with a hand pump
I haven't failed yet setting up tubeless. I have been doing it for years on my truck! 😅 All jokes aside I really haven't failed yet. Even my hardtail with ghetto tubeless sets its bead easily.
Struggling to seat... Get a presta to schrader adapter (£2) and take wheel to ur local garage forecourt to use their car tyre pump... But put it in 'flat tyre' mode if its a machine or u won't get fast enough air flow.
Don't skimp on quality rim tape and other tyre products otherwise you will be reminded on the trail later of that mistake.
I use a painters sponge with soap and water around my tire bead to help it seat on the rim when I inflate it
A painter's sponge. Good tip
I am seriously considering going tubeless. i love running tubes but I'm just tired of the only weak spot on my bike being the tire setup. My rear Continental Race King tire has a permanent wobble to it now because of a flat I received from running over a screw and not realizing it until the tire and tube was completely flat (I was wearing headphones with music on). I have to use my older oem tire that's in better condition because I don't want to permanently take the rim out of true.
do you not have compressors in the UK? a small one perfect for a bike shop can be had for under 100USD
The most important preparation is to ensure that rims and tyres are very clean. Using isopropyl alcohol on a clean lint free rag to be achieve perfectly clean surfaces, particularly the inside of the rim wall and its hook, and the outside of the tyre wall and its bead.
People have $5K bikes and don't spend a couple hundred on an air compressor?
I know people keep asking but wheres doddy
On his Instagram one of the posts in the comments said he’s having some time off but will be back soon
Doddy works for Moonraker now
Watching s car receive new tyres makes me think the bicycle wheel needs to reinvented somehow for tubeless
Make it so the spokes don’t protude through the outer edge of the rim
It may be heavier, but the way tubless MTB wheels are set up now makes me think there’s room for improvement somewhere along the trail to make it more reliable
You can already get rims without spoke holes.
Remove the screw from an old valve insert, screw the top end into the end of the plastic tube and screw the other end into the valve stem for no spill sealant insertion
#ASKGMBNTECH
Where is Doddy? Is he still with GMBN?
First question: How to choose proper rim tape width. Do I pick the one that's exactly the width of inner width of the rim? Or do I pick the one that's slightly narrower or wider?
If the rim bed is concave, the rim tape should be slightly wider than the rim width; e.g., I use 21mm tape for 19mm rim width for my gravel bike wheels.
I spray my valve cores with silicon spray allow to dry and the sealant doesnt gum up valve
Nice tip. Thanks.
Literally waiting for new tyre to be delivered in the next hour or so lol will be going tubeless (hopefully not much hassle) fortunately I don't need rim tape as the wheel rim is sealed so one less task to worry about 😏
Literally? Are you sure?
Yes some wheels like mavic the spoke holes are sealed and won’t affect tubeless mine are mavic ust no rim tape needed and inflate easily with a floor pump
@@woduk yep. That's what I have on my bike
My biggest struggle is unseating the tyre after sealant has glued the tyre to the rim extremely well. Simply pushing with tyre lever does not work, even using my body weight is a struggle. I guess I will have to just repeat it many times until it eventually loosen. Eventually it probably will, but working on it today, not sure when I will be finished. I will definitely work on it for a while. I won't cut the tyre off like some do when that happens. 😁After a lot of repeated tries it eventually unseated, I kneeled down on the rim, and pushed the tyre using both hands, I tried at multiple locations, but when it made a gap at one spot I continued there, it eventually unseated, fully there, so I continued around the until whole it was fully unseated all around the rim.
I run Cush Core currently use Gorilla tape but trying Stan's now, but not impressed roughly cut, tearing, hard to tape. Not as easy as in this video, I won't be continuing with Stan's. Problem with gorilla tape is adhesive is hard to remove, I should have tried with a sealant and adhesive cleaner from Muc Off, heard good things. But Gorilla tape also is not air tight, so needs a ride before it seals. But application is easy. But removal onc eit is worn some can stick well and it tears leaving some on. But key is to be gentle and slow removing it. But if really worn its unavoidable to have some adhesive, but Isopropyl alcohol won't remove it easily, it loosens it up, but involves a lot of rubbing with a rag. I struggled to find decent rim tape in stock. But Stan's is not it, nor is Gorilla tape I've not seen any reviews of the Peaty's rim tape but might try it. Maybe Muc Off too.
I have switched from Stan’s tape to Much-Off. I think MO is much better. To get the tight bead off the rim there is a giant tire lever made for use with Cush Core inserts. I don’t use inserts, but the big lever makes unseating the tire bead easier. Also, you can set the wheel on the ground and stand on the tire on each side to use your body weight to pop the bead off the rim; wheel horizontally on the ground perhaps on top of some rags or cardboard.
@@mattkavanaugh5623 None of that worked, maybe it helped, I don't know. I edited my comment, to tell what I did.
But I just had to do what I usually do kneel down on the rim and push the tyre with both hands, it eventually unseated but my hands hurt like being hit bu a fast football.
I have Cush Core lever, but that does not help with this issue. I just had to repeat the pushing of the tyre. There is also a method where you interlock fingers and clamp with palms and fold the tyre until it unseats, but I've not tried that.
I've just realised that I'm a bad tyre. I'm 'baggy around the rim' and I've been known to let 'air escape'! Who knew!
HAHAHA best comment
Im new to tubeless and I successfully set up the first wheel and the second wheel would not seat after trying all the tips above and also useing a topeak joe blow to blast the air in. I couldn't do it after about 15 attempts. My next door neighbour came to the rescue with a air compressor and the tyre seated straight away.
Yes, I have had the same experience in the past. However, then I learned to seat the tyre on the rim first, without any messy sealant inside. I try to get the bead seated as neatly as possible all around by hand or with a tyre lever before pumping air in. Yes, I know, some difficult wheel/tyre combos need a blast of air through an empty valve stem using a compressor or a pump with a special cylinder. Only after you have the bead well seated all around, add the messy tyre sealant through the valve stem. Break the job down into easy steps.
where is doddy?
Living in your head
Shut up
I have some OEM wheels that came on a 2020 Summum. 26mm internal width, and trying to fit 2.6 tyres on is impossible. Never had issues before, with any other tyre/wheel combo.
Take out the valve core and use high capacity co2 cartridge. Snaps those beads into place like an obedient soldier.
My two tips: Pray the night before, then do a weird dance with the tyre so the sealant splashes inside.
Found muc-off valves don't have the right rubber grommets for any of my rims... So I had to bodge it in.. Was v surprised tbh... They need diff grommets supplied.
timely subject as the snow begins to melt here.
time stamps are sooo user friendly!!! thank you. you were not clear enough at the end on how or why removing the valve stem will help inflate a tough to seal tire. ???? missed the concept after re watching that pit. great timely presentation for those exiting winter.
Hey Greg, essentially removing the valve stem helps ensure maximum airflow from the pump into the tyre. Sometimes, if used, the valve stems get a little clogged with old sealant which can result in a 'trickle' of air rather than the rush necessary to get the tire on the bead
👌great video, first time running tubless, how often are you suppose to top up your sealant🤔and remove the old and replace with new?
In the video, she said every 6 months for the Peaty sealant. I'm using Stan's sealant and have always gotten away with changing once every 12 months. (This video reminded me I'm now due to update the sealant on my fat bike's tyres.)
I struggle setting up tubeless as I only have a track pump and a hand pump, not a compressor
I’ve used a CO2 inflator to due this in the past. It’s best to use the 25s to give it enough pressure to pop onto the bead
I would try an air reservoir canister to use with a track pump. I have a track pump with a built-in reservoir (Bontranger Flash Charger) and it works well.
@@mattkavanaugh5623 yeah I can see they work well but I don’t fancy spending £150+ on a pump when that’s the cost of two of my maxxis minion tires
Another person made a good suggestion that is relatively cheap. Get a presta-to-schraeder converter nut. Screw it onto your presta valve stem, without the valve inside. Go to your local service station and use their car-tyre pump to blast a strong shot of air into your tyre.
I have a hole in my rim just along beside the valve hole. It lets air out. I got my bike new and valve snapped and I hade a inner tube in it
Does anybody have any tips for latex free sealants?
If the rims do not have any spoke holes, I assume I do not need rim tape at all. Or am I missing something?
My existing tire rim does not have any marking, it has like a lip all around the edge of the rim on both side, can I convert it to tubeless tire?
When inflating the tire with your sealand inside, where should the value stem be when inflating? 12 o-clock position? 2 o-clock? 6 o-clock? Or it doesn't matter?
4:00 or 7:00 so sealant will flow down easily but not clog the valve.
I agree, 4:00 o'clock, @@mattkavanaugh5623
wheres doddy :(
Hahahahhahha
Why does my tyre blow off the rim when I pump it up with an insert in, and is fine without?
Can you use disc brake cleaner instead of isopropyl?
No I wouldn’t, isopropyl alcohol evaporates so leaves no residue
Muy bien rubia ,bravo
Tubeless seems like a regression from tubes. Take the convenience of an inner tube and come up with a wacky, messy, time consuming alternative. What happens when you break a spoke? Have to redo the entire thing again. It's like water cooling a pc, yeah, you can, but there's really no reason to
So my rims are “stans arch d”
And today I setup tubeless but my rims have a faint line at one part, looks as if it’s where they join together when manufactured but air is escaping through this join line, any ideas how I can correct this?
@@jaredkirby1237 I had a similar issue. I removed the tire. Got some super thin cyanoacrylate crazy glue. I applied at sparingly to the join in the rim, both on the inside as well as the outside. I did two coats with a few hours in between and allowed 24 to fully cure. It is held up for several years now.
#ASKGMBNTECH - Love the program!! How do I choose the correct with of rim tap for tubeless conversion? With different rim specs it gets very confusing!
The wheel manufacturer has it in their spec for your wheel. If the wheel is the stock one which came with your bike then your bike manufacturer will also have the size in their spec.
All well and good if your seem is sealed
What tape sticks as well as Gorilla tape? Gorilla tape is easy to apply, but is more porous than rim tape.. most rim tapes I've tried either tear , or don't sit well in the rim no matter how tight I pull it, or just don't stick no matter how clean the rim is.
Muck-Off tape has worked for me, better than Stan’s, but Stan’s worked too.
@@mattkavanaugh5623 Stans was aweful, I like Muck off, but it's hard to get here. Muck off's finishing strip doesn't hold, otherwise it's the best thing I've used.
Muc off sealant is easy to clean out, as it washes out while it's still liquid and is bio degradable. Just hose the tyre and wheel off
horrible brand pretty much for everything they produce. the sealant curdles and clumps, dries way too fast comparing to notubes and conti sealants.
i prefur to let the lbs do that work for me
From experience, I think gorilla tape is the best option. Peatys is far to thin, so u really need to go twice, so not recommended. Race face factory tape is great... But hard to get.
Can use a CO2 cartridge to seat the tire.
Yes. I used to do it that way. Use the larger 25s to make sure it doesn’t run out before you get the bead to pop
Morning
Getting the tyre on is the easy part... Keeping it on, not so much... Never exceed the tyres max pressure, or u will fail when it blows off the rim and decorates ur bike cave in sealant, Mr Bean style! 😬😂
I haven’t watched this yet. Let me guess it’s an ad for Peaty’s products…
I do one layer of Stans tape and then cover it up with electrical tape. Since the electrical tape is a thinner width you have to do it twice, but the result is perfection! Then some soapy water on the bead to seat the -tyre- tire👍😆
Can someone tell if I can convert a regular rim into a tubeless this way or do I need to get a different rim and tire plus valves thank you for your help
You can, but it's not guaranteed.
Probably need to wind the rim tape round several times to get a lip for it to seal on.
err... Sometimes. It worked for my son's higher-quality rims. It failed after many, many attempts for my wife's cheaper quality rims.
Where's Doddy?
Well I still find it difficult to impossible to seat the tire into the rim... And yeas tried the soapy water thing, got a canister for inflating... And on the other hand I don't really see tubeless as being beneficial over TPU tubes...
presta for tubeless can be nightmare. trust me
I'll stick with Tube's thanks....Way less messy...Ha !!
You're NOT showing the precision in detail. Tubeless looks to be a-lot of aggravation and time consumption to save a few measly grams of weight. However, since I purchased a pair of rims, not realizing nor the catalog description stating they're "Tubeless only," I am now stuck with'em(no return policy from...Nukeproof), I have to buy a entire tubeless set-up. Aggravating. Hope tubeless works for us big hefty riders.
Gorilla tape is far better than Stan's tape. Can't use Stan's. It's a mare.
Can’t you tell GMBN got a new sponsor…repeating content you’ve already got numerous videos on 🙄🙄
Unless you're a professional and there's money on the line and you hired a bicycle mechanic we're not there yet with tubeless. Fatter tires with lower pressure will get the job done and keep you riding. Life's too short to be messing around with your tires all day when you can be out riding.
Start by using an inner tube and binning that crap
Sounds like a mature opinion
@@komoonkhi bet you're 12
It's ok, tubeless is not for kids 😉.
Tubeless is a marketing gimmick.
If you need 18psi to ride then you are a bad rider.
Tubeless is a marketing gimmick.
If you need 18 psi to ride than you are a bad rider.
She says if you’re still struggling after all this then you don’t deserve to ride tubeless! It’s plain and simple!