How Drilling Thru Concrete Works @ 10,000 FPS
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- Опубликовано: 25 янв 2024
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How do SDS rotary hammer drills drill into rock and concrete so effortlessly? With the aid of our high speed camera we take a look at that hammering drilling process to learn how it's done and along the way compare two differently priced cordless SDS Plus 1" hammer drills the Milwaukee 2912 and Ryobi P223 to see how their performance compares.
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As always, the creator of this channel works in product development for Astro Tools, always consider multiple sources when looking at a tool! 
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You know you're getting older when you get more excited about a new video about power tools coming out from the torque test channel Vs watching vids about building modded cars. And that's what I grew up on.
I know I get older when I feel club music is too loud for my ear 😆
This footage is killer.
It's been a pleasure watching you folks continue to evolve your channel. Thanks for doing this stuff.
It’s ok
As a central EU denizen I can tell you from experience that 1970's Soviet™ Reinforced Concrete is no joke, and while a 2 kW corded Makita will eat it all day every day, for home use there is... BOSCH Uneo, and yes it's the green line! Would really like for someone to dig into it as I can't fathom it has a mechanical hammer mechanism - my guess is some direct pneumatic shenanigans. And yes, for its size it does work quite well (doing fi. 6 mm by 40 mm depth the main problem past the 9th hole in a row is the tool overheating!).
EDIT (2024-01-27): I stand corrected, the Uneo most likely has a mechanical hammer with that wobble bearing thing. Regardless of which exact "flavor" of Uneo one gets, as there seems to be at least half a dozen different models under that exact name. And yes they are all "pneumatic" in the sense of "air compression is a thing at that one particular point", pretty much like all electric ASG pistols are "pneumatic".
I heard that Albanian bunkers were very sturdy. Concrete and rebar plus stone and steel.
i hate soviet concrete. had few jobs as electrician in these buildings. diamond drilling and cutting takes way longer than new rebar concrete
What kind of corded Makita are you talking about? That Bosch Uneo is declared to have 0.5J of impact energy.. which is kinda on a (very) low side.
Also, there is a wear factor: as o-rings on the cylinder wear down (or grease dries up), the hammering action goes down in power. I.e. the cylinder starts leaking air instead of pushing and pulling the striker.
@@KennyMinigun The kind of blue Makita I borrowed 15+ years ago and it took me more time to put the dust covers than to drill 4 holes. So yes, don't remember the model, but it was a beefy one (and remember, 230V here; 2 kW is nothing particularly special and I did make that number up - though sounds reasonable to me!).
As for the Uneo - it works in practice, which is why I'm so curious "how come!?". Sure, the Makita took a second to drill a hole - like the problem was trying to not overdrill (sorry, had no stop rod); while the Uneo is maybe a dozen seconds per hole - but remember, I'm comparing here a full-on contractor grade corded power tools vs home gamer "drill 10 holes a year" tool and... The latter one is way more amazing.
As for the Uneo - I do actually have it (and me, sorta) in a video actually using it on the said Soviet™ Reinforced Concrete -> ruclips.net/video/VbbgoTDNC4E/видео.html (beware, loud AF; I do not edit my videos, yet).
Cool beans, that's the best SDS video I've ever seen.
I've had an SDS Plus drill for the better part of 10 years, never thought I'd use it much, bought it just to drill a hole to run airlines up from my basement to garage, but have done hundreds of holes since for anchoring decks, installing my lift, TONS of tapcons, and a few more holes through foundations since then...plus lent it out to a bunch of people too. Well worth having one!
Harbor Freight was selling their corded Bauer brand for 80 bucks. I will easily get my money's worth out of it.
Really cool to see how an SDS hammer drill works. I've used them for years at work but never thought to tear one open to look at the guts
I'm the exact same way. I love to learn about this stuff, but I work hard enough every day that I don't really feel the need to tear into my own tools and stuff too much. Similar for cars. I love cars, and I love the mechanics of how everything works, but I just like to drive them. I don't love to work on them. Peace brother ✌️
Honestly, this is my favorite channel on You Tube, Great work
Same
Finally! FINALLY!!!! A video about these drill impactor ish things that answers all of my questions!!! Thank you so very very much! I’ve tried to figure these things out, looked at multiple diagrams and had it explained in words multiple times multiple different ways, but this is the first time it’s ever finally clicked for me. Thank you so very very much!!!!
I'm in the EU, and once had to drill a hole through the 30cm (a foot!) of exterior wall of my oold home, near tge ceiling where it's concrete. I didn't want to buy other tools so I used my corded hammer drill, expecting it to ve a torture... And it was. I finally got through after 45 minutes and a dead drill.
A few months later, my electrician had to drill a similar hole in a similar spot, but he had the M18 max. Yeah, I got an SDS drill after seeing him lol. Cheap corded one, still does the job well.
It's funny how everyone moved to battery for everything, but cheap corded either keeps up with or straight up beats a lot of battery stuff. And for cheap hobby tools corded is a godsend
Thank u TTC for forking out the dough for all these tools, cuttin a window for viewing, and most of all, for shelling out the ridiculous amount of funds for a high speed camera. ❤
You guys/gals are good to us!
Awesome! This is what I've been wanting to see for a while! Hope you keep testing different SDS rotary hammers.
Yes!!!! I‘m glad you measure impact force on hammer drills and especially the comparison to the ratchet hammer.
I've said it before,, the best friggin tool review/testing content on RUclips period!!!
Thanks so much for all your hard work. We love your channel!
Incredible video Torque! Thanks for putting in all this effort just to give us this great educational content.
Nice video and explanation, thank you! I also amuses me to watch rotary hammers at work chipping away at whatever the business end is pointed at. Can't wait for SDS rankings (hope they are coming).
My personal story is that I was trying to drill around 20 holes in reinforced concrete to hang kitchen cabinets. The regular 18V combi-drill wasn't cutting it. And it was getting real hot (due to how the hammer mechanism works). Pulled the trigger on a rotary hammer purchase. One of the best purchases of my life.
yooo yalls channel actually is for people not in the trades Im so glad yall have come so far!
Last summer I had to drill some half inch holes through some concrete pavers. I put an sds style bit in my M12 drill with hammer functionality, and it took me about 10 minutes of constant running on the drill to cut one hole. This was with a 300lb guy (me) bearing straight down on the thing. The one hole took more than one battery.
So I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of their cheap corded SDS drills. All the rest of the holes together took less than half the time of the first hole using the M12 drill. We'll worth the $60 or so to have in my garage for the rare time I need to be able to drill through concrete.
You guys always make great videos. Thanks for putting in the time.
What a great episode, I've always wondered how the SDS hammer action works.
Going from a bog-standard hammer drill to SDS rotary is a revelation. Glad to see details on why! What a time to be a tool buyer.
Loved the music in the slowmo. I kind of had a giggle with it.
Very cool. I always love it when you cut open the tool so we can see how it actually works.
Thanks for the lovely and very informational video. I've always wondered how SDS Drills worked - now I know :D
Is there a particular reason you guys haven't chosen Bosch for this example, the 'creator' of the SDS standard? :)
P.S.: All SDS Hammerdrills are measured in Joules in Europe. No matter if SDS plus, SDS max or SDS quick. :)
In this case, it was because we wanted to know why there was a 2X price difference between similarly designed SDS tools made from the same TTI source. We felt high speed would be the best way to know WHY instead of just show the timed difference.
Perfect, thank you for the quick answer!
In that case it makes perfectly sense. Thank you for your work and the videos! :) Always fun to watch and learn.
SDS hammers use Joules in the states too.
Im finishing my basement...I've got the current top 18v rigid drill with hammer mode and borrowed my bros corded hilti sds drill for sinking 3/16 tapcons into baseplates for the studded walls. I drilled 2 with rigid and quickly dreaded doing a 3rd. Switched over to the hilti and was punching holes in the slab like it was pine. Like all tools, definitely an amount of use/application vs price.
I recommend using a hammer drill for holes near the edge of a slab or panel; less risk of spalling. Rotohammer for everything else. Btw I have been using the M18 1" (it is their smallest Special Direct System Plus with a demo/hammer alone setting) in the video for 8 years and it has been performing pretty well, I'd recommend it. Slotted Drill Shank is a pretty good guess though.
Be intrigued to see how subcompact drills compare to others.
YES!! Indeed 👍
I love this channel, the educational stuff like this is super fun to watch & learn!
Really cool video. Love the channel and the stuff you guys do. Keep up the great work
Thanks. I drilled lots of concrete utility poles , both square and spun.
In the early days , say late 80’s, the hiltI corded was a wrist breaker. I called it the rebar dance. Set on hammer only it would cut through rebar.
Funnier still is we were old school enough to strap a generator to the bucket truck to operate it amongst energized circuits.
Really cool to see how they work!! Thanks for all the effort in bringing this to us. I had an interesting real life situation a few months ago. I had to tapcon some 2xs to some ancient brick for the parapet wall steel siding and cap. Using my electric Bosch SDS the tapcons wouldn't hold at all. Same bit size my DeWalt 999 would work perfectly. Hearing plugs required 😛
This was beautiful and informative. Damn guys, nice work.
Great episode as usual.
Fantastic seeing this in a controlled environment! Thank you.
Great video and explanation!
amazing do more slow mo camera vids pls like the inside of a reciprocating saw i always wonder what it looked like in their
Slow motion footage is awesome 7:52 @Torque Test Channel
Great video, great slo mo 10 out of 10
Another's awesome and educational video, thanks! Can't wait to see more sds tools tested :)
Great explanation!! Can’t wait to see your ranking of best SDS hammer drill brand
Great video I have the Ryobi 5/8 I wish it had the hammer only setting but it still does a fine job for my occasional need of a hammer drill, can't wait to see if/ how much the new battery platform helps the Ryobi tools ! Great video, as always
Love watching your channel! Always great and very informative! I wish you would have included the Bosch in the test,I have one and love it!
Finally, I asked and wanted a comparison list from you guys for a long time for sds drills.
Would love to see some more tools from the other brands tested on the hammer rig. And don't forget to add it to the Google drive sheet!
We dont quite have a google drive category ranking for SDS yet
Rotary hammer drills are one class of drill where the manufacturers seem to use the same units of performance, in terms of striking force (Joules).
My take on the TTI models is that the mechanical side is the same (identical part numbers), just driven by different motors. Which means the cheaper models will likely last longer, as they’re subject to less stress. Possibly one reason Ryobi tools can be surprisingly durable.
I know it's bad form to spruik other channels, but Boltah Downunder has been at this for a few years and has about 30 SDS drills tested. He's a very small and underappreciated channel, so check him out.
Amazing footage and insight. As a DIY'er trying to remove a very large granite boulder I've spent way more than I care to admit on SDS drills. Unfortunately, as good as some of the cordless versions are, they're still not as good as their corded counterparts in the SDS-Max range when you need to do the big stuff. They also overheat more quickly.
If you have a serious job - don't go cheap on these or on your PPE - use an extractor with a HEPA filter and make sure you're wearing an appropriate mask.
Well said
A lot of brands use the exact same parts on their cordless version, so other than runtime and price, the corded versions shouldn't have any advantages. If you SDS overheats, it as nothing to do with its power source.
@@MrArcticPOWER I went cheap at first - Harbor Freight’s Hercules line and they just didn’t seem to have the same impact power, but they’re budget tools (still $400+ for the top SDS-Max). I ended up with a top of the line Bosch and it was excellent.
Re: overheating - I also have the SDS Plus in this review as well as the top Milwaukee M-18 SDS-Max Cordless and have had them overheat and shut-off (as designed). Never had a Corded model overheat and go into safety mode. I practice a lot of mechanical sympathy (pause breaks between drilling, plenty of grease, the best Bosch bits) because Granite is tough stuff.
Lit been waiting for more rotary hammer videos
Great lesson
I grabbed one of the Milwaukee M12 Fuel sds+ drills. For my very occasional concrete drilling I couldn’t justify the big boy. I was pleasantly surprised how well even the M12 worked for my tasks.
Eh, I figured just having a drill with the hammer function was good enough. I'm going into wood, drywall, and sometimes metal (commercial framing) more often, so having a tool that mainly works for that but can clear masonry once in a while made more sense.
Wow, you've done a wonderful thing. You've educated a lot of folks, (myself included) about how an sds drill really works. I also presumed they had high torque based on the motor size but given how they work, they don't have a lot of need for torque. Very cool!
awesome! im saving this episode for after work when i can get a whisky down me neck! :) see you in 6 hours!
Hey man you should maintain awareness around your levels of alcohol consumption
Back in the late 70s, the way we drill through block wall was a star chisel bit and a 5 pound sledge or a 10 pound sledge. Yes it was glorious thing to watch while on a ladder.😅
And God help you if was poured concrete with rebar. It turned ya onto Popeyes forearms
Cool, loved that, thanks.
Rotary hammers are my go to for all concrete drilling. The only exception being if I need to do a couple of 3/16" holes for tapcons.
Excellent. Thanks
nice! I'm a plumber so...
my drill of choice is hil;ti TE 6-A36 (later TE 6-A22 22v version) and I find it awesome
would love to see how TE 6-22 and TE 30-22 (both nuron) would perform compering to Milwaukee
I have the TE-60 and TE-4 nuron and they are nice machines. 👍
I have the Ryobi. Definitely a big help with cement and bricks. Crazy how much of a difference the hammer makes.
Same even used it up to a 1 1/4" x 18" bit and it still took it like a champ, honestly for the price it's an absolute beast.
I got the previous cheap version Ryobi SDS .
Got a metal anchor ring installed on a very hard boulder sitting in my yard for over 40 years that I thought it's a joke to drill a hole into it without professional masonry crews with high power ultra expensive tools.
Now, I am a believer in modern tools.
Friggen love sds drills. I own a milwaukee sds but our company supplies us with big old 36 volt bosch sds drills, which we use for the heavy duty work. Saves wear and tear on our own gear but those old bosch drills are animals. They have seen alot of work every week and they just go on and on. Killed a fair few bats over there life time but they keep on running.
The biggest benefit I always noticed with a SDS is how much less force you need to put on the drill compared to a drill/driver and how much vibration goes back into your hands. I was doing a job where we had to drill about 50 anchors per floor into the ceiling in old 1970's concrete, I was able to do the entire floor with my SDS and while my arms got sore it was fine. My co-worker on the floor above tried to do the same with a drill/driver and his arms turned into jello by around hole 30.
This is the video I did not know I needed 😂
Nice work mate, this is a very good overview of these tools.
The low torque they have is something I've tried to convey in my channel as people seem to use them as a big twist drill, but really they're just dust augers. Much better off using a normal combi drill.
Also your concrete seems pretty soft, do you have limestone aggregate or something?
Modern rotary hammers have slip clutches to limit torque.
When you snag on rebar, you know why.
Excellent.
Even though they will eventually do it, drill-drivers with hammer function are miserable for any project larger than hanging a picture.
When I worked as an electrician (in Germany where houses are stone and concrete) we had different Hilti rotary hammers, corded and cordless.
The best allrounder is probably the TE30-AVR, pretty large and heavy, but comfortable since it doesn't shake the user around too much and powerful enough for 30mm breakthroughs in concrete and 68mm core drilling.**
Now that I'm an engineer I don't do that kind of work anymore, so for occasinal use I've just bought a cheap Einhell cordless rotary hammer. Works surprisingly well and is still in one piece. Especially cheaper SDS chucks are usually terrible. I don't think Einhell is available in the US, but if so I'd be interested in some reviews there.
**Hilti has quick change chucks although they last thousands of hours with some grease and cleaning from time to time, I can see that these don't. On a prosumer tool like the Milwaukee I would expect to see that too.
This is so cool!
This is timely for me. Been using rotary hammers to bust out tile and thinset on a job.
Why not include the Bosch, Makita, Rigid, and DeWalt SDS models for the usual TTC comparison?
We have videos like that. This was a video on how the tools work more than anything else
20 yrs of small scale exploration drilling here .The bit / carbide will carve a bit of material in unison with impact, it is easier to see when you add weight and more rotational torque (2000-4000lbs ). The rock will howl / resonate with the rotation as it carves, there is a lot of drilling that is done with out air hammer , when it gets hard then the 4" seco-roc down hole hammer comes out and pounds through solid rock. Would be awesome to see some downhole tools examined ( pneumatic, hydraulic) from oilfield , mining, exploration areas.
The slomo footage is beatiful and I fucking appreciate the music aswell! Great channel thank you!
Ran a hilti te30 last night for about 5 hours straight drilling 16, 8 plus inch 3/4 anchor holes. Drills through concrete like butter, rebar however is another story. Real pain in the ass even with rebar cutting bits
4:47 Not sure if you're hitting peak torque as I can't hear the clutch slipping. The 2912 definitely has a clutch (parts 6-13/14/15). Could be tripping thermal limits, or maybe they've added a more conservative current limit so that clutch only slips on a sudden bind up.
Just picked up the Ryobi version of this on sale. Super curious how they work
Now I want to see how Milwaukeee's M12 SDS compares.
When picking the driver to buy you should also consider that a faster (more hard hitting) driver will reduce the amount of heat put into the chisel, which seems to be the primary killer of them.
The drill drivers that have a hammer function also seem to require a lot more force from the user, particularly noticeable when drilling in a ceiling.
Cool footage ;)
Hey TTC you guys should test the DCK SDS drill.
An old guy at a hardware supplier opened my eyes to how these things work. He said they used to use a star shaped chisel. Hit it, and rotate.
My grandfather knew a guy who would use a surplus Garand with AP rounds to make concrete wall penetrations, until one ricocheted and nearly hit the guy.
I wonder if there is a prime number ratio between the rotation and the impacts, making sure the impacts are almost always in a different position?
Varying the downward force can help, got an old one where if too much force the drill speed stays unchanged but the drilling speed slows down.
It picked up where I fell asleep last night at around 10 minutes!
Been waiting for SDS testing!!! Any way to put the ranking chart style review together on these? Can science be used to turn PSI into a way to tell if the Ft/Lbs & Jules numbers are just marketing hype? Need to drill a serious amount of granite and cant find objective comparisons anywhere...
really interesting video 👍
How about a video on the holding power of thread lockers, types and brands.
Would you add the Ridgid and the Bauer 1” to your runs. Interested in how they compare as I am in those two lines and looking to get a 1”SDS.
So I’m curious of the Kobalt XTR 1/2 KXIW 1424A-03. The impact driver did well.
Bosch is known for their excellent hammer drills, could you test one of those?
Thanks Guys..
One thing I learned while drilling a bazzilion Holes in Concrete is a bit of Finesse with the tool.
Pushing too hard/bearing down slows the chipping action down. I learned to find the Sweet spot and it chews...
Mike M.
Makes sense, as both kinetic energy and momentum are contingent upon velocity, and you need some space in which to accelerate. The piston is moving a lot more than the business end. Of course, with acceleration over really small amounts of space or time, you have to look at the derivative of one of those components.
You should try the big Mueller Kuepps air hammer
Really interesting stuff! The only thing I think I would like to see you guys improve on is consistency across tests. When drilling with the Ryobi it looked like it was at an angle compared to the Milwaukee. I think you also can have inconsistent thicknesses in things like poured slabs. I like the way project farm uses jigs to make sure the weight being applied also remains the same. Not that I think it would have made much difference (if any) here, but more consistency is always better.
I’d love to see your guys’s opinions on the Carlyle brand cordless tools. As far as I know, they only have their 60v 1/2 and 3/8 impacts as well as a hammer drill; and a 12v 1/4 drive cordless ratchet. There is almost nothing on RUclips about them, and for something you can order over the counter at a fairly common parts store, I feel it’s worth testing out.
There are also manual hole drilling chisels, kinda with three straight flutes where you have to manually turn the tool between hammer strikes- basically a super slow SDS drill 😄
Finally got my boschammer sds+ so this is timely
Cheapskate
As a former Hilti tech advisor it hurts my soul to see the through-hole technique for what I assume are wedge anchors. So many manufacturers of equipment (not the anchors or drills) suggest it without regard to how much it reduces the pull-out for the anchor. Meh, not my problem anymore.
Funny thing on these SDS+ battery drills is the "king" of corded SDS+ drills (Hilti) came out with the first viable battery version...then proceeded to allow themselves to be spanked in performance for almost 15 years by more than one competitor. Bosch being the first was not a surprise but there were multiple others until they came out with the third gen battery hammerdrills.
So when I set wedge anchors for earthquake bracing at work, I drill the hole just deep enough that when the anchor is bottomed, just enough threads are showing to bolt my attachment swivel to it. Is this the more correct way to do it?
I’ve always done it that way to guarantee I don’t drill through the slab onto the above floor. But makes some sense that it would be stronger as well.
@@connorjones1485 There are tables for all the stuff but infamous "rule of thumb" is if pull-out is a concern, you need three anchor diameters or 1/4 of the slab thickness below the hole. The goal is not to compromise the "cone" of concrete the anchor is trying to pull out. That cone is almost a perfect 45 degree angle (again, oversimplified) starting at some point below the tip of the anchor.
@@michaelkrenzer3296 good to know. These are the sorts of things that don’t get shared with those who install them, as you’ve already indicated.
In the case of our earthquake bracing, they probably do actually need close to their rating.
@@connorjones1485 As you can imagine, it all depends on what is going to fail first...concrete, anchor, brace or the wood in the wall it is bracing.
My common issue I see because I am around a lot of car folks is two post 7000# lifts installed in 4" 3000# unreinforced slabs (perimeter reinforcement and just 6 x 6 weld wire in the field. Because it fits their baseplates, manufacturers spec out 3/4 diameter bolts really close together...usually 6 in an 18 x 12" rectangle. They instruct to drill through the slab which for that diameter anchor and that thickness of slab cuts the concrete pull out strength in half and normally four bolts' pull out cones overlap with one other anchor so each of those have their cone's strength cut in half. Really crappy design and worse instructions.
@@michaelkrenzer3296I can't understand why anyone would ever want to overdrill a hole. On top of the problems you mention, it takes longer and exposes your anchor to ground moisture. Only advantage I can see is that you don't need to suck/blow all the dust out, just push it down. I guess there's also the ability to hammer in old unwanted anchors, but that only requires overdrilling by 10-20mm.
You should do the kobalt sds 24v. I've used one, not a power house but has a much different feel compared to a normal sds.
Super cool and interesting! Also the difference in grease between the Milwaukee and Ryobi is surprising. Really shows tgat just because it's the same company/factory they are different products.
could you try to get your hands on some other eu branded tools like vigor, would be nice to see how their impact wrenches compares to others (v4800n and v3653)
Cool slow mo footage. For those unfamiliar with the progression of things, those masonry bits are the evolution of straight pattern bits from back when hammer drilling meant you were drilling with a hammer. Same basic concept--the drill is a rotating chisel that either you or your trusting buddy rotated between hammer blows. The single chisel masonry bits work fine in rotary hammer applications, but more modern hand drillers prefer star drills with a pair of chisel wedges arranged in a cross pattern. The skill isn't dead by any means either. Often in national parks the use of power drills is prohibited, and neither would you want to lug around a rotary hammer if you're packing in a good ways or climbing a rock face.
How about some cordless string trimmer or just the base/motor part comparison? 40V vs 18V?
What adjustable wrench is that at 9:16?
This is great information. You should compare a lot of the other brands SDS drills like Kobalt.
Oh, SDS, one of those Bosch inventions. BTW, I think you should add some Bosch tools on that table, too.
could you test the hilti
I'm still curious if these can be used in Automotive to get wheel bearings etc off like an actual Air Hammer, but also be used to drill concrete etc.
Can your dyno test torque wrenches?
could you please review the New EDC 35 from Nitecore and the Seeker pro 4/Seeker 4 from olight? I am considering buying those lights but am aware that the protac 2.0 is also pretty good from streamlight
Could you add Ridgid to this this test as well as the Craftsman SDS rotary hammer to see how they compare please? Maybe even add the budget friendly Bauer SDS to the mix.
The Craftsman one looks a lot different than these tested so I'd be curious to see how that mechanism works. Thanks for the great videos!
Any word on cordless air hammer analogs? One of them would be super useful if it developed any beans at all.
I work at a mine. & the guys on shovel crews use these Milwaukees in place of an air hammer when you don’t wana fire up a mobile compressor or a diesel welder, and string out an air line for some quick material removal.