Very clear and comprehensive, thanks! My bike has this style of brakes and so much of the information online is for the newer style with the separate bleed screw.
Is it my imagination...or bad eyesight? At 4:10 the diaphragm cover comes out, with indentations downward, at 6:10 it goes back in with the indentations facing upward? 99% sure it the indentations should go in the reservoir. Maybe I did not see it correctly? And, I prefer caliper-up bleeds as one is not fighting the fact that air bubbles rise. A second person on syringe duty to suck up the fluid being pushed to the lever reservoir is pretty much essential. Agree that this video is the "official" method but hate fighting physics! Love the bleed port/screw in newer models!!
I am just drawing vacuum in the syringe when I try to draw fluid from the reservoir. The fluid level in the reservoir is not dropping. When I pump the lever there is a squiffing sound from the caliper, so the line from the caliper to the piston at the lever must be open. It seems however that there is a blockage somewhere between the lever piston and the reservoir or I am not doing it right. (Yes I did open the bleed valve)
If they are Shimano brakes yearly s suggested and you must use mineral oil. Due to mineral oil not being a regulated fluid it can vary in its properties so we suggest using Shimano Mineral oil in Shimano brakes.
Well that just looks a PITA. Glad I only have one set of these on a bike I want to sell. All my other brakes are now Magura MT which are far easier to service as you can just use two syringes and push the fluid between them.
I have an older type of Shimano break similar to the one in the video. They are very very slowly leaking oil (whenever I wipe it after a day it gets oily around the reservoir cap). Would replacing the diaphragm solve the leakage?
Often brakes make noise when the pads or rotors have been contaminated with oil or some other kind of liquid chemical. The bleed itself will not cause the squealing.
it could be as it trickles down , this years deores were previous years xts or Lx similar, they are good brakes ive used them for over ten years, il upgrade when they are done but until then, i cant complain at all. they are a faff at times though
How do I do this when my brake callipers don't have a bleed nipple or the spanner to open and close? All I have is a screw hole to access the fluid ? 😩
hi there everyone does anyone know is it fine to do this the other way round you add down in the fluid and take away at the top reservoir i have done it for my dual xt and the lever seems to have a really firm result
I do not like this style of reservoir system without a top bleed port (to mount a funnel). If one of these has a "spongey" issue, I have to drain the whole line into a cup (gravity+time) then refill the line, pushing up from the bottom syringe.
Yes that is good practice to actually advance them and clean the dirt off of them. Its often suggested to use the systems fluid to clean them so when teh piston is pushed back in it hydrates the seal. Clean it, push it back in, advance it, clean it again and push it back in. On the last time of cleaning it use alcohol to prevent any contamination of the pads.
The pistons need to be pushed back into the caliper body for bleeding. The brake block keeps them from creeping inward as you bleed. This is why the wheels are removed. Even for systems that don't need that, it is too easy to get fluid on the pads and rotor.
@@diegeeleel As sometimes things get messy, and you need the brake to work out where it needs to settle as it was designed to do. I'd always advise using a piston chuck block, even if you need to make one out of some scrap wood, otherwise you also risk pushing the pistons out of the brake and you won't realise until you keep getting air in the system, scratching your head as to why, and suddenly you realise the pistons are no longer in the caliper.
You need to remove the wheel to install the bleed block and to prevent any fluid from accidentally getting on the disk or pads. The blocks make sure the correct amount of fluid is in the system.
When your brakes stop working. You change brake pads and it still doesn’t work properly- you feel that handle needs to be traveled more to brake properly- then you need to change fluid. Also when you open the reservoir and you see that fluid is transparent or dirty not red or pink or green in other cases - that also a sign to bleed the system.
When your braking isn't what you expect and you checked your pads and they are fine. I bled one I bought and it wasn't full plus the oil had gone a bit clear and with some black bits where the colorant had seperated, either meaning it was very old, or someone had resorted to baby oil.
Brilliant. Just done my first brake bleed. Thank you!
this was really helpful, i have same brakes and i didn't know how to bleed them the right way :)
Very clear and comprehensive, thanks! My bike has this style of brakes and so much of the information online is for the newer style with the separate bleed screw.
I watched a video where they extracted the old fluid through the resevoir, which method is better?
this is exactly how i did it too, except with the vacuum syringe on the brake caliper. Great video!
Is it my imagination...or bad eyesight? At 4:10 the diaphragm cover comes out, with indentations downward, at 6:10 it goes back in with the indentations facing upward? 99% sure it the indentations should go in the reservoir. Maybe I did not see it correctly?
And, I prefer caliper-up bleeds as one is not fighting the fact that air bubbles rise. A second person on syringe duty to suck up the fluid being pushed to the lever reservoir is pretty much essential. Agree that this video is the "official" method but hate fighting physics! Love the bleed port/screw in newer models!!
Thank you for an easy to follow video.
Parabéns um excelente serviço ❤
So helpful, thanks mate
Great video
.. So where can we purchase a couple of hose compression sleeves?
Could you do a video on taping frame bolt holes please? Thanks love the channel.
Taping? Or tapping?
Tapping. Apologies!
In
@@mattgies di
I am just drawing vacuum in the syringe when I try to draw fluid from the reservoir. The fluid level in the reservoir is not dropping.
When I pump the lever there is a squiffing sound from the caliper, so the line from the caliper to the piston at the lever must be open.
It seems however that there is a blockage somewhere between the lever piston and the reservoir or I am not doing it right. (Yes I did open the bleed valve)
I have Dual XT, I love it but bleeding is not enjoyable. Not using the caliper siring, just hose into a reservoir. Gravity helps...
Help repair . Thank you 👌 ✌
Thank you very much
I assume it will but will this also work for Hope brakes?
I'm replacing the lever and the hose can I just drain all the fluid from the caliper, so the system is empty?
Does brake fluid need change every 2 years like motorbikes and cars? Can i use a normal dot 4 brake fluid or on;y shimano fluid? Thank you!
If they are Shimano brakes yearly s suggested and you must use mineral oil. Due to mineral oil not being a regulated fluid it can vary in its properties so we suggest using Shimano Mineral oil in Shimano brakes.
@@parktool Thank you again!
Can mix a bl m445 lever with a xt m8100 caliper?
Well that just looks a PITA.
Glad I only have one set of these on a bike I want to sell.
All my other brakes are now Magura MT which are far easier to service as you can just use two syringes and push the fluid between them.
good video ,thank you
I have an older type of Shimano break similar to the one in the video. They are very very slowly leaking oil (whenever I wipe it after a day it gets oily around the reservoir cap). Would replacing the diaphragm solve the leakage?
Is highly likely that replacing the diaphragm will solve your issue. Finding it will be the challenge. The exact model will be needed to find it.
Hi thx guy . I do that on brm485 .after bleeding my brake make noise . I dont know where this sound came from ?
Often brakes make noise when the pads or rotors have been contaminated with oil or some other kind of liquid chemical. The bleed itself will not cause the squealing.
Little strange to see sort of high end Haro equipped with a deore group set have a two bolt bontrager stem
it could be as it trickles down , this years deores were previous years xts or Lx similar, they are good brakes ive used them for over ten years, il upgrade when they are done but until then, i cant complain at all. they are a faff at times though
How do I do this when my brake callipers don't have a bleed nipple or the spanner to open and close? All I have is a screw hole to access the fluid ? 😩
What brand and model of brakes are you working with?
I have both Shimano mineral oil brakes and SRAM Force DOT 5.1 brakes - with proper fluid for both, does this kit have appropriate components for both?
No, the kits are separate. DOT fluid should never be mixed with brakes or brake tool for mineral fluid.
hi there everyone does anyone know is it fine to do this the other way round you add down in the fluid and take away at the top reservoir i have done it for my dual xt and the lever seems to have a really firm result
If lever is firm, then no air is inside so it worked.
I do not like this style of reservoir system without a top bleed port (to mount a funnel). If one of these has a "spongey" issue, I have to drain the whole line into a cup (gravity+time) then refill the line, pushing up from the bottom syringe.
One thing forgot - clean the sides of the pistons before pushing them back in?
Yes that is good practice to actually advance them and clean the dirt off of them. Its often suggested to use the systems fluid to clean them so when teh piston is pushed back in it hydrates the seal. Clean it, push it back in, advance it, clean it again and push it back in. On the last time of cleaning it use alcohol to prevent any contamination of the pads.
how you refill from scratch??
wouldn't it be better to push the oil upwards from the caliper so the air can rise ?
There are different techniques possible. In this case the factory recommendation was to go top down. As long as the air is out, it is good.
@@parktool thank youuuuu
That's what I do with my Magura brakes, but I don't think that these bath style levers really have the fittings to do that.
@@user-yv2cz8oj1k no you need the ones you can fit a funnel at top. you push dirty oil into it from bottom, or in your case two syringes i think
Why are you going against gravity? Shouldn't pump at the bottom and suck at the top?
only if you have the type that can fit a funnel at reservoir
Even after the bleed procedure, the brake lever still travels too close to the bars.
Unfortunately you may have to bleed them again, until they work.
What happens if you dont take the wheel off?
The pistons need to be pushed back into the caliper body for bleeding. The brake block keeps them from creeping inward as you bleed. This is why the wheels are removed. Even for systems that don't need that, it is too easy to get fluid on the pads and rotor.
@@parktool thanks. The reason I ask is because sometimes in reality I dont have that much time
@@diegeeleel As sometimes things get messy, and you need the brake to work out where it needs to settle as it was designed to do. I'd always advise using a piston chuck block, even if you need to make one out of some scrap wood, otherwise you also risk pushing the pistons out of the brake and you won't realise until you keep getting air in the system, scratching your head as to why, and suddenly you realise the pistons are no longer in the caliper.
Time to go back to 'block brakes' 😂
Hayes?
On the list to get done.
@@parktool You should take as an example the Dyno sport
What is the name for this breaks
Lizzie and Fabio.
@@user-yv2cz8oj1k thanks and get out here mdfk
How to find replacement brake pad of that ? I have deore lx. We are same brakepads.
Aren't these all possible without removing the wheel?!🤔
You need to remove the wheel to install the bleed block and to prevent any fluid from accidentally getting on the disk or pads. The blocks make sure the correct amount of fluid is in the system.
Can you please create
a video for replacing rear Shimano brake levers?
At least I know I did it right.
But how to know when you must replace the fluid ( mineral oil) ?
When your brakes stop working. You change brake pads and it still doesn’t work properly- you feel that handle needs to be traveled more to brake properly- then you need to change fluid. Also when you open the reservoir and you see that fluid is transparent or dirty not red or pink or green in other cases - that also a sign to bleed the system.
When your braking isn't what you expect and you checked your pads and they are fine. I bled one I bought and it wasn't full plus the oil had gone a bit clear and with some black bits where the colorant had seperated, either meaning it was very old, or someone had resorted to baby oil.
Caution with allergy ✌
Am I the only one that ruined there bike from this
Yes. It's probably just you.