Bespoke items will never be a part of my wardrobe but dammit if I can't get enough of this delightful weirdo. His passion for fine clothing is infectious. I'm wearing a Larry Bird tshirt and shorts made out of sweatpant material. Two mismatched, yet beautiful pieces. I call all my clothes pieces now. Just like Kirby. Love this dude.
Luckily they are for me. Shirts, suits and especially shoes. If you get to the stage where you can have clothes made, go for shoes. It's really worth it. Some of mine are 30 years old and when my father died some of his were 40 years old.
Even though I cannot afford a Charvet bespoke shirt, I am fascinated by your presentation of all the fine nuances that distinguish such a shirt from the ordinary run-of-the mill types.
You can sew shanks on your buttons if pressed!!! A good spool of thread and a few needles might cost you $20. And if you have trouble with cheap plastic, and onerously thick buttons, for Pete's sake, change them. For about $25-$30 you can have the buttons of your dreams! And you can learn quite quickly how to change your buttons and sew a longer shank on at the same time--- making him and all of the guys like him absolutely weak in the knees! For God's sake! Have we turned into a nation of fops or what?
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm of loo
All great points. I guess I got lucky, Charles Tyrwhitt extra slim fit shirts fit me perfectly. I used to wear standard sizing off the rack and I would agree, a properly fitting shirt is a GAME CHANGER. Looks so much better and the higher arm holes, much more comfortable with a suit jacket.
I just purchased my first Turnbull & Asser shirt and the difference in quality is uncanny from my usual OTR $100 shirt. I can’t bring myself to by a cheap shirt after seeing for myself. You just can’t explain it until you have it on/ in your hands. Fantastic video as always.
Kirby and Raphael (gentlemanz gazette) are easily the most knowledgeable and trustable sources for menswear information on the internet. Always learn something new. Great video !
I like Raphael but he plugs is brand way too heavy, it's nauseating to be honest. Kirby is alot more subtle about plugging his brand, etc. I feel like GG is now just a way to advertise and sprook the products online. I actually unsubscribed to his channel because of it. There is alot of good information on the internet (try reading blogs and pick up a few classic books- cheap on amazon), I don't need to sit through a 20 minute advertisement about shit I will never buy.
Despite all the pomp around the Charvet shirt, Kirby does a great job pointing out the finer details for which the customer is paying when buying bespoke. The summary at the end says it best- there are excellent off-the-rack shirts you can find, but beware the cotton/poly blends and wrinkle-resistance. I love my Brooks Brothers supima cotton shirts but because they are treated with anti-wrinkle chemicals they don't breathe well at all, making them almost unwearable in warmer temperatures. In the world of off-the-rack, it pays to shop around and stick with brands that suit your body shape.
Great point on having access to a bolt of the fabric versus only a swatch. Not only do I *_not_* get the advantages you point out from a bolt (eg, how a fabric drapes), I feel that a swatch of the fabric can actually mislead me about the it's color, weight and sheen, among other things. Thank you Mr. Allison for another fantastic video.
I'd be very interested in a comparison video between bespoke shirts - like a comparison between a Hemrajani bespoke vs the $1000 Charvet. I've had bespoke shirts made by three different tailors and the difference between the three was quite remarkable and surprising.
I've been making made to measure shirts for about 8 years _with_ the ability to adjust the shoulder angle, collar width, armhole size ect., also sleeve width, first button height ect. so this is quite a bit of undermining made to measure. I have to start calling our mtm shirts semi-bespoke or something else.
One of my pet peeves is s button on the sleeve gauntlet. If ever I’m in shirtsleeves at my desk, they click and catch on the desk itself - bloody annoying! From French cuffs to barrel cuffs, I always get my shirts made minus a gauntlet button. Your Charvet shirts always look top drawer Kirby and you did a great job showing people the differences between the two. After watching this video, people should be able to make a more informed choice, if embarking on their bespoke journey.
@@paulortiz2035 Are you high? This design of gauntlet has a flat panel with a button hole in it. It’ll just look sloppy if you cut the button off - as folks will see you’re missing a button on each sleeve and think you simply don’t care. My sleeves lack the flat panel on the gauntlet and don’t gape open. I prefer to look smart without a button on the gauntlet, for the reasons mentioned above.
I normally hate the fashion industry because it makes people spend hundreds or thousands on just logos. But at least you show how to get quality deals and explain if items are actually worth the high price tag or not.
Nice video Kirby. Fine crafts in shoe making and tailoring have been lost through the ages due to the industrial age. Grateful that you can provide such valuable information about lost craftsmanship and quality and certainly something to strive for!
I was gonna say a third reason for a button shank is that the button/buttonhole no longer pinches the shirt fabric together so you don't get any puckering.
at the end of the day 1k is too much for a bespoke shirt I think. Though, I have shirts from Luca Avitabile, Luciano Lombardi, and my local tailor Sanmaria and they are all from 500$ to 350$ depending on the shirt. My local tailor has me buy the fabric and legit charges me 125$ to make a shirt and he cut me a pattern. He has cut my pants as well and charges like 250$ for those sans fabric. So Kirby is not wrong here about quality but I have never seen a 1k shirt before and the makers I have listed are quite high end in the Italian Market.
The most important of the important points you made Kirby was the placement and thread color of the monogram. Thank you for returning a bit of sanity to the proper way to monogram a shirt. The modern trend of placing one’s monogram on cuffs and even collars often gives me convulsions (not really, but you get the idea)!
I'm really glad you made this video, been wanting to further upgrade my shirts to match my new Ancient Madder tie!!! I didn't realize my tailor had some for sub $150 price point. I'll start there which will work as I intend to commission a bespoke suit from them as well. These videos really help to understand what to look for and what to expect for each respective price point. Thanks Kirby!
Hey Kirby I am loving the channel (currently binge watching the entire Q&A series)! What would you suggest for a mans first 10 custom shirts? I am essentially starting from scratch with my clothing (still have my 7 pairs of AE shoes 🤓). For some reference I have 1 white and 1 light blue houndstooth custom shirt, 3 custom suits, a navy, mid-grey and charcoal glen plaid. Thanks again for helping the modern gentleman build and care for his wardrobe! I am hooked! 🤵🏻
nice video comparison, Kirby! although in my opinion, it would have been useful to have an intermediate comparison, like a Borrelli shirt...some very respected people in the sartorial world find Charvet shirts very overrated and would prefer 100Hands ones any day of the week. There are some brands that just rest on legacy and hope that it will be enough. Hilditch & Key in London is one of those cases where regulars of many years stopped shopping there because the quality (and customer service) haven't kept up with prices
Great...after watching this very interesting video learning about all the little details of real quality I now hate my off the rack shirts. Not even sure what to wear tomorrow.
oxysoxos, I don’t think you should feel badly. The idea of spending $1000 on a shirt, A SHIRT! Is absolutely ridiculous to me. How many times have you noticed the drape of the shirt on the guy you’re talking to?
@@tomblack6972 you have to understand these shirts are not intended for the average person lol. someone worth millions of dollars won’t think twice about paying $1,000 for a shirt. it is literally pocket change
The cheapest ‘bespoke’ option for shirts is to order a size slightly too large and then ask a tailor to make adjustments. There’s a Chinese lady who does this for me regularly and she’s great at it. The shirts fit like a glove.
How much does she pay for the adjustments? My experience is that even if they are able to bring in the sides, the armscye will always be too large. By increasing the size of the shirt, you increase the size of the armscye. This to me is the most obvious and uncomfortable part of a shirt that is too large.
Thank you for putting this together. I have bought high end made to measure shirts around 250 to 350 range with non fused methods. They were very difficult to maintain. Most cleaners in my area could not clean them correctly. I hate the ironed crease after cleaning. The high tread count and multiple ply shirts did not last well. Mailing shirts to another state for cleaning seems a little impractical.
Hey look Kirby, I can’t afford even a 100$ shirt, but you are such a good presenter, that I’m here to stay and watch your enthusiasm for nice clothing. You deserve more more subscribers
Would love to see a comparison of a reputable online MTM shirt compared to the bespoke Charvet. No doubt it wouldn’t be the same but would be interesting to see how close it can get with maybe 20% of the cost.
Using a discount code on a reputable MTM you can get one no different than the $1000 shirt. Try using CIPRIAN_100 on Lanieri.com and tell me how it fits! Mine was as good as a shirt can get, with luxurious fabric.
If the MTM company is really good, not like the majority, but really good; you can get a bespoke shirt in the $150 to $175 range that will truly rival that $1,000 shirt. How do I know? I've been working in the bespoke and MTM markets for years and next year am launching my own brand.
@@rodellis6 What? He isn't sponsored by Charvet, he doesn't sell their products. As far as I can tell, he makes his money solely from the products he sells on his website. As for comparing Saphir polishes to "boot black," what do you mean? If you mean brands like Kiwi, Kirby has done the comparison numerous times, as have many other people, and the Saphir polishes blow everything else out of the water, especially in terms of ease of use. I can tell you from personal experience that Saphir polishes take a fraction of the time and a fraction of the amount of product to achieve the same shine. Plus, they are available in 12+ colors, while Kiwi, Lincoln, etc. are available in 5 colors at the most. In short, yes, Saphir polishes really are better. They really are worth the extra money - which works out to pennies per shine, anyway.
I love the idea of bespoke, and Charvet is undoubtedly a legendary establishment, but hardly anything can justify a $1000 shirt. It's all because of the brand name.
Using a discount code on a reputable MTM you can get one no different than the $1000 shirt. Try using CIPRIAN_100 on Lanieri.com and tell me how it fits! Mine was as good as a shirt can get, with luxurious fabric.
First, I want to say thank you for the video and the effort taken to produce it. However, personally, I don't think this is the best comparison. Of course there will be differences in the quality between these two shirts, however you are comparing a $100 shirt to a $1000 shirt, which really isn't a fair comparison. Those who are looking to get a $100 won't buy a $1000 shirt and same event will happen the other way. If you are deciding to do a comparison, do it on a $100 shirt to a $250 shirt or $250 shirt to a $500 shirt. Moreover, if you want to do a bespoke comparison, do it between two high-end similar priced bespoke tailors.The price point is much smaller and you can really show off the quality difference while perhaps persuade people to spend a 'bit' more money on it. The structure (showing the quality to look out for) is good but again, you could have done that in a different video. It just seems like a marketing video in the end, rather than being a fair comparison. Anyway, that's my view. There's still great work in the production, script, etc making a nice watch (as always). Thank you :)
Metro Train good points, but does it need to be a fair comparison? I don’t think it is Kirby his intention to talk people into bespoke shirting. Merely to show the array of differences between the two outers of the spectrum. Perhaps Kirby can enlighten us what the goal of this video is. That being said I’m looking forward to see how the Will Whiting shirts hold up against the Charvet’s. I saw some great pictures passing by on instagram.
@@rooierakker23 Not sure really, was just my thoughts, at the end of the day it's still a good video. Just wanted to give a bit of constructive criticism :)
Metro Train Also, there's plenty of ready-to-wear shirts (even under $100) that have mother of pearl buttons and are, overall, of very good quality. Also, there are made-to-measure companies that offer dozens of different collar options and other customizations, and if all the measurements are taken correctly, the shirt will fit very well! On average, these shirts cost around $150-200. Obviously, Charvet is true bespoke and makes much higher quality products, and is sure a legendary name, but it is still nearly impossible to justify such a price for a shirt.
Nice video about $100 shirt vs $1000 shirt. I like the fact that the $1000 shirt has the year of manufacturing in it and the customer signature. My Ross department store 17 1/2 shirt fit my body but doesn't fit my neck. I can't close the collar to wear a tie. That is why custom shirts are better. Department store shirt winkle while you are wearing them.
I read somewhere that starch embeds crystals into the fabric which abrade the threads. This in turn reduces the life expectancy of the garment. Probably not something one wants to do with a fine shirt. But again if one can afford such a shirt one may not care.
I just watched your video and I absolutely loved it! I found your presentation to be incredibly informative and engaging. You did a great job of breaking down complex concepts into easy-to-understand terms. I also appreciated the humor and personal anecdotes that you sprinkled throughout the video. It made the content more relatable and enjoyable. You're one of the few RUclipsrs who I can consistently count on to deliver high-quality content. Keep up the great work! "I outsourced this feedback to AI"
I cannot tell you the difference wearing a bespoke shirt makes in the way you look and feel. I am also not yet willing to spend at the Charvet level, but Hemrajani and Individualized Shirts, both of whom I currently use, provide bespoke/custom shirts that are excellent and are far less expensive than Charvet. Once you start wearing custom shirts, you'll never want to go back. People make comments such as "you look great- can't quite put my finger on it, but it looks great."
5 лет назад+5
Bespoke shirts by COURTOT in Paris have stood the test of time and do not cost so much.
My Brooks Brothers Regent fit shirts fit me pretty well. I'm not quite on this level but there's nothing wrong with buying 1000 shirts. I'd be scared to do anything in it.
Great video. There were so many elements, that I never noticed. I buy made to measure shirts and suits. It is a compromise, but I am very happy with the service and the quality of the shirts and the suits. When you have different arm and leg lengths and shoulder widths, like I do, there is no way, that a ready to wear shirt/suit can cover that (literally). Shirts are around €160 and suits between €1‘400 and €2‘000, depending on the fabric. As the host has said, I can chose between many colors (nuances), fabrics… For me, it is important to have a sales person that knows his/her trade. And not a sales person, who, as the name suggests, just wants to sell a product. Also, it is nice, to go to a store/tailor, talk about purchasing clothes and have a personal relationship instead of doing it online (no pun intended to other responses). I am happy, that I have that and can count on that.
We Will Need To Cover Multiple Areas Regarding Business; And Business History Regarding Bespoke; And Its Tailoring; And Input It Into Several Potential Corporate Buy-Out Opportunities; Here in New York; I Believe That; Men's Wearhouse And Joseph Abboud; And Brooks Brothers Is Up For Grabs; And You Will Love Your Business Instinct As It Kicks In To Do That!!!!
You're brilliant. Please note that I once bought a no-iron cotton shirt and it was uncomfortable to wear; it seemed to have a plastic coating on the cotton.
@@bobsbeard3977 Yes you can. Brands like Kiton, Isaia, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, etc. Can all be found at the thrift store. Not that finding a bespoke shirt is very helpful most of time as it's tailored to a specific individual, but if you're very lucky it will fit.
I think he bought a size bigger CH shirt. For me, made to measure is best option. Investing in expensive super quality material and get it tailored made to measure is good idea then given ton of bucks to bespoke tailor. You will get 4 to 5 great quality nice fiting m2m shirt than a bespoke.
@@ultrademigod Even if you could afford a $1000, you wouldn't be throwing them away. If you could afford $1000 shirts then maybe you'd do that with the cheap $50 shirts.
Very interesting video, Kirby. My London bespoke shirtmaker, Frank Foster, also uses three different button sizes. I believe others do that too. But the shanked buttons on your Charvet shirts really impressed me, and that's something I have seen on very few bespoke shirts. Charvet cuts no corners. There are many different approaches to bespoke shirts, and there are many bespoke shirtmakers that don't have the same finish standards as Charvet. My Frank Foster shirts come close to your Charvet shirts, but at a quarter the price they can't do quite as much as Charvet. -MS
LeFatalpotato but then 95% of the worlds population can’t watch RUclips (censored) or understand English, or has internet access fast enough to watch videos.
@@aussiestallion69 well I guess there is certainly an unlucky populace in the world that is not able to connect to RUclips, but I believe it is in no way close to 95%, I would guess somewhere in the ballpark of 10%. Coming from a country with a gdp per capita of $9k/year, even here more than 90% of people own a device that can connect to internet. And due to ppp, poorer countries have internet access for less than quarter of the price of what Europeans and Americans pay for in an equivalent package
LeFatalpotato you need to do more research, China bans RUclips, the population of China is approx 1.3 Billion people, India has a population of 1.35 Billion people of which only 460 million can access the Internet, so with a global population of 7.6 billion just China and India add up to approx 24% If you do add in English speakers as a first or second language, and estimates vary widely but it’s approx 2 billion of which some of course are in India which a large majority of the educated population speak a English as a second language and of course are very likely to have access to the internet, so estimated 250 million for that. If you do the sums that’s about 23% for English speakers as a first or second language, again not all would have access to high speed Internet so let’s say only 20%, making at least 80% of the global population essentially without access to or understanding of the content of the video. However as you alluded it’s the cost of the less expensive shirt that is unaffordable for 95% of the world population and in that you’re very likely correct!
@@aussiestallion69 Well, for starters, I had not stated anything about people that could understand or even reach the video or not, I only wanted to state that if the number of people that have internet access would not outnumber those that can afford a $100 shirt 100 to 1 I would be seriously surprised! PS: I just checked a website called hostingfacts.com, and it states there are 4.1b active internet users in the world by december 2018, and I really don't care how many of them can speak English or reach this video, it's too much of an hustle for me lol. But I think it would be safe to assume there are less than 41m $100 shirts sold every year lol.
Started to video, wondering how the heck did he found a $1000 shirt. Heard the name "Charvet": I can stop the video right here, right now. I know where the "problem" comes from. I once walked in there, asked about price, starting 600€. I don't see how they can even try to justify their prices, when other legendary places such as Turbnull & Asser (who, as a side note, make shirts for the crown and bond actors) start at 260£ (276€), which is not even half price, for a similar level of make. And even the sleeves are not attached by hand here...
I like 'bespoke' shirts also. But for $1,000 I'd wear tees. I had a very competent tailor make custom shirts for me for $60.00. Of course if I wanted very high end cotton, Egyptian or Sea Island it's about $25/yd and up, and I'd need 2.5 yards, but the fabrication would run the same.
You can buy a blue or white Dr. No cocktail cuff cotton shirt from Turnbull & Asser of Jermyn Street, London, for GB£195 (about US$255). This is the shirt that Sean Connery and Roger Moore wore in the James Bond movies. Hard to beat, unless you MUST wear cufflinks!
Well...what was described was very entry level made to measure. Higher level systems give a very similar adjustability to average bespoke makers and allow one to adjust pretty much all aspects of fit (shoulder slope and posture on each side, collar and cuff details etc.) but are, naturally, quite a bit harder to use than average MTM systems and essentially need a tailor to use it. I have my MTM shirts made to my bespoke patterns. Also an option with some makers, naturally with digitizing cost. Handmade buttonholes, handsewn buttons and hand finishing in chosen points (I usually like machine finish on my everyday shirts for its durability).
I can't afford either shirts (well, I do own a handful of Carolina Herrera) but what I do is buy off-the-rack clothes and have them tailored. I drive 30 miles to the nearest seamstress and tailor which I found years ago. That still comes out sometimes cheaper than the Carolina Herrera (a brand I respect for her love of a good white shirt)
The value of a good, unassuming seamstress is a staggering blind spot in the conversation. Over a recent "clotheshorse phase" ranging from wonderful $12 Bella+Canvas 3501 blank t-shirts to a pair of bespoke shoes, I found my local tailor to be right up there with those t-shirts in value. This is especially true in the cases where she upgraded or repaired old garments I already owned. Perhaps there are some reasons that great local tailors don't get airtime. Their craft doesn't scale like a manufacturer's does, and working with them doesn't deliver the dopamine shot of a luxury experience. You have to look for these people, and there are no guarantees - you might get burned a few times before striking gold. (Though Yelp in my experience has been reliable.) Their margins aren't high. So I guess there's no money trail. But then I go see Emilia in her beat-up storefront emblazoned TUXEDOS, we push through the language barrier, and a $25 pair of darts reforms a tenty ten-year-old shirt into something special. Or an $80 rebuild turns a $55 Nordstrom Rack pair of jeans into something I want to live in all the time, with far better material - and, frankly, far better fit - than a $200 pair of made-to-measure jeans. It's like magic! It makes me want to learn some sewing.
I think you don't need to spend $1000 to get a fantastic shirt and Charvet's pricing seems excessive. Simon from Permanent Style did a review on Charvet shirts a year or two ago and also highlighted the steep price. There are many Italian shirt makers who rival or even exceed Charvet in terms of quality and finish. And they do a lot by hand. Some would feel that the lack of hand-finishing on a Charvet shirt is a deal breaker, too. But i think that's just a preference: there's no substantial functional advantage to handwork vs. machine stitching.
I find your example of $100 off-the-rack shirt to be of poor making at that price point, but maybe USA is different from what I see locally. The Swedish makes I buy for $100-$150 (and that's including 25% VAT!) are far better sewn and has good quality mother of pearl buttons. Your example more illustrates shirts I got in the $40-$50 range (and that again includes 25% VAT). Either way, thanks yet again for your beautifully produced videos!
Very detailed video. I must say, my favorite shirts are my shirts from MyTailor, thanks to your guidance. While I'm out in Spain in October I will definitely be visiting Cameseria Burgos to have a bespoke shirt made instead of buying a ready to wear souvenir. I really appreciate these long form videos and how detailed they are. Also I thought you gave a great interview (nice to hear more about how you got started) on the buttoned up podcast (I wish the interview was longer).
I use my dress shirts often under media lighting which results in more perspiration around the collars than the average wearer. As a result I replace my dress shirts frequently. In your opinion, who makes the best quality bespoke shirt for under $200? Thank you for being a proponent of the art of a gentleman.
You can commission bespoke shirts from Turnbull and Asser or Emma Willis in Jermyn Street. Although there is an initial order of 4 shirts, you can order them individually thereafter, once all your measurements have been done, and the price will be under $500 per shirt. Turnbull & Asser make many of the Royal family’s shirts and both they and Emma Willis hold Royal warrants from HRH the Prince of Wales . However, the extra detail in the Charvet shirts is what Kirby is showing in this video, and I think he is extremely gracious in the way that he points out that he is merely demonstrating, and does not wish to pass judgement on those whose price point is much lower. The whole point about commissioning a bespoke shirt at the very top end is the experience - in the same way that people pay extra for a top of the range watch or car if they can afford it. The experience of going into the elegant Charvet store in Paris, commissioning a shirt and then the experience of enjoying that shirt and feeling special in it each time you wear it is what appeals and makes it worth saving up for, even if you cannot initially afford that price point. Most people won’t have a wardrobe full of bespoke shirts, but saving up and getting a few for the experience is a start.
Dear Mr. Allison, very useful video. I use to purchase all the shirts that I use for ties from Brioni MTM and I considered them good quality but I will follow your advice and have something from Charvet made for me so I can compare quality, now can you tell me if in U. S. A. I can have somebody measure me to have a few made?? Thanks
Bespoke items will never be a part of my wardrobe but dammit if I can't get enough of this delightful weirdo. His passion for fine clothing is infectious. I'm wearing a Larry Bird tshirt and shorts made out of sweatpant material. Two mismatched, yet beautiful pieces. I call all my clothes pieces now. Just like Kirby. Love this dude.
Luckily they are for me. Shirts, suits and especially shoes. If you get to the stage where you can have clothes made, go for shoes. It's really worth it. Some of mine are 30 years old and when my father died some of his were 40 years old.
Never say never
@@mscott3918 who did you go with for bespoke shoes ?
They can be with a good sewing machine and patience. The hard part will be sourcing fabrics.
> I can't get enough of this delightful weirdo
Seriously, he's either super fucking rich, or spends most of his income on shoes and clothes.
Even though I cannot afford a Charvet bespoke shirt, I am fascinated by your presentation of all the fine nuances that distinguish such a shirt from the ordinary run-of-the mill types.
You can sew shanks on your buttons if pressed!!! A good spool of thread and a few needles might cost you $20.
And if you have trouble with cheap plastic, and onerously thick buttons, for Pete's sake, change them. For about $25-$30 you can have the buttons of your dreams! And you can learn quite quickly how to change your buttons and sew a longer shank on at the same time--- making him and all of the guys like him absolutely weak in the knees!
For God's sake! Have we turned into a nation of fops or what?
0:37 "These two shirts are both shirts." -Kirby Allison 2019
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm of loo
I have 5 wetsuits that are all wetsuits.
My shirts come in a pack of 3 for £20.
Bet they’re nice?!
Alex Ryan I bet most people couldn't even tell the difference between your shirts and a 1k shirt, even after watching this video.
Something to be proud of
Walmart must be ready to promote you!
mine is from 100yen store
All great points. I guess I got lucky, Charles Tyrwhitt extra slim fit shirts fit me perfectly. I used to wear standard sizing off the rack and I would agree, a properly fitting shirt is a GAME CHANGER. Looks so much better and the higher arm holes, much more comfortable with a suit jacket.
you can get better shirts for half the price at propercloth
My shirts are all made from leaves that i find on the street.
What’s a shirt?
my hairs are my shirts
I just purchased my first Turnbull & Asser shirt and the difference in quality is uncanny from my usual OTR $100 shirt. I can’t bring myself to by a cheap shirt after seeing for myself. You just can’t explain it until you have it on/ in your hands. Fantastic video as always.
Kirby and Raphael (gentlemanz gazette) are easily the most knowledgeable and trustable sources for menswear information on the internet. Always learn something new. Great video !
I like Raphael but he plugs is brand way too heavy, it's nauseating to be honest. Kirby is alot more subtle about plugging his brand, etc. I feel like GG is now just a way to advertise and sprook the products online. I actually unsubscribed to his channel because of it. There is alot of good information on the internet (try reading blogs and pick up a few classic books- cheap on amazon), I don't need to sit through a 20 minute advertisement about shit I will never buy.
Absolutely LOVE your videos. Your presentation is so pleasant and informative. Fantastic detail. Thank you!
Despite all the pomp around the Charvet shirt, Kirby does a great job pointing out the finer details for which the customer is paying when buying bespoke. The summary at the end says it best- there are excellent off-the-rack shirts you can find, but beware the cotton/poly blends and wrinkle-resistance. I love my Brooks Brothers supima cotton shirts but because they are treated with anti-wrinkle chemicals they don't breathe well at all, making them almost unwearable in warmer temperatures. In the world of off-the-rack, it pays to shop around and stick with brands that suit your body shape.
I shop at KMART but i appreciate this dude's passion, très bon, bro
Is KMart still around?
@@romanmwong you bet
Great point on having access to a bolt of the fabric versus only a swatch. Not only do I *_not_* get the advantages you point out from a bolt (eg, how a fabric drapes), I feel that a swatch of the fabric can actually mislead me about the it's color, weight and sheen, among other things.
Thank you Mr. Allison for another fantastic video.
to really drive the point home regarding fit, i think it would have been a good idea if kirby also wore both shirts in front of the camera.
lullemans72 So true , but then we’d see, there isn’t a $900 difference .
This guy looks too pompus to be caught wearing anything that costs less than $500
TheGoondas87 Pompous is right . He thinks he’s English Royalty.
@@G17-911 Damn good comment.
I'd be very interested in a comparison video between bespoke shirts - like a comparison between a Hemrajani bespoke vs the $1000 Charvet. I've had bespoke shirts made by three different tailors and the difference between the three was quite remarkable and surprising.
I've been making made to measure shirts for about 8 years _with_ the ability to adjust the shoulder angle, collar width, armhole size ect., also sleeve width, first button height ect. so this is quite a bit of undermining made to measure. I have to start calling our mtm shirts semi-bespoke or something else.
How do I place an order?
@@romanmwong PhD & CPA? ...Call me!
@@pthesmith He probably teaches accounting lol
Yes, you should. MTM doesn't usually have all these choices. Artisan MTM, or custom MTM?
Are they hand sewn with monograms and only the highest quality fabric known to man?
One of my pet peeves is s button on the sleeve gauntlet. If ever I’m in shirtsleeves at my desk, they click and catch on the desk itself - bloody annoying!
From French cuffs to barrel cuffs, I always get my shirts made minus a gauntlet button.
Your Charvet shirts always look top drawer Kirby and you did a great job showing people the differences between the two.
After watching this video, people should be able to make a more informed choice, if embarking on their bespoke journey.
And a scissor is all you need to solve that ptoblem!
Easy. Peasey!!!
@@paulortiz2035 Are you high? This design of gauntlet has a flat panel with a button hole in it. It’ll just look sloppy if you cut the button off - as folks will see you’re missing a button on each sleeve and think you simply don’t care.
My sleeves lack the flat panel on the gauntlet and don’t gape open. I prefer to look smart without a button on the gauntlet, for the reasons mentioned above.
Does your homeowner's policy cover your wardrobe?
lol
I normally hate the fashion industry because it makes people spend hundreds or thousands on just logos. But at least you show how to get quality deals and explain if items are actually worth the high price tag or not.
Nice video Kirby. Fine crafts in shoe making and tailoring have been lost through the ages due to the industrial age. Grateful that you can provide such valuable information about lost craftsmanship and quality and certainly something to strive for!
I was gonna say a third reason for a button shank is that the button/buttonhole no longer pinches the shirt fabric together so you don't get any puckering.
Hey Kirby, you should do a video on the best made to measure websites for formal, and casual clothing. Thanks.
I live in Hong Kong and have my shirts made at Ascot Chang. For the price of one Charvet I can get 3 fully bespoke shirts in Alumo fabric.
Good for you!!
Question is are they as elegant as a Charvet?
Well, if one is cutting corners it may have to do. I'm sorry to hear about your total failure in life.
I love that you have different shirt dry cleaners!
at the end of the day 1k is too much for a bespoke shirt I think. Though, I have shirts from Luca Avitabile, Luciano Lombardi, and my local tailor Sanmaria and they are all from 500$ to 350$ depending on the shirt. My local tailor has me buy the fabric and legit charges me 125$ to make a shirt and he cut me a pattern. He has cut my pants as well and charges like 250$ for those sans fabric. So Kirby is not wrong here about quality but I have never seen a 1k shirt before and the makers I have listed are quite high end in the Italian Market.
Randy Bingham The only reason to pay $1000 for a shirt is so you can tell people it is a $1000 shirt, because no one would ever know or care otherwise
The most important of the important points you made Kirby was the placement and thread color of the monogram. Thank you for returning a bit of sanity to the proper way to monogram a shirt. The modern trend of placing one’s monogram on cuffs and even collars often gives me convulsions (not really, but you get the idea)!
I'm really glad you made this video, been wanting to further upgrade my shirts to match my new Ancient Madder tie!!! I didn't realize my tailor had some for sub $150 price point. I'll start there which will work as I intend to commission a bespoke suit from them as well. These videos really help to understand what to look for and what to expect for each respective price point. Thanks Kirby!
I like the bit at 19:25. I understand you want to be proper and use a good speaking voice, but the natural back and forth sound really good too
Hey Kirby I am loving the channel (currently binge watching the entire Q&A series)! What would you suggest for a mans first 10 custom shirts? I am essentially starting from scratch with my clothing (still have my 7 pairs of AE shoes 🤓). For some reference I have 1 white and 1 light blue houndstooth custom shirt, 3 custom suits, a navy, mid-grey and charcoal glen plaid. Thanks again for helping the modern gentleman build and care for his wardrobe! I am hooked! 🤵🏻
Anna Matuozzo makes all my shirts. Thank-You very much.
nice video comparison, Kirby! although in my opinion, it would have been useful to have an intermediate comparison, like a Borrelli shirt...some very respected people in the sartorial world find Charvet shirts very overrated and would prefer 100Hands ones any day of the week. There are some brands that just rest on legacy and hope that it will be enough. Hilditch & Key in London is one of those cases where regulars of many years stopped shopping there because the quality (and customer service) haven't kept up with prices
It Is Great That You Mention; The Cuff Of The Sleeve; I Find That The Cuff With Such Shirts; As Denim; Should Be Cuffed With A Double-Cuff;
Great...after watching this very interesting video learning about all the little details of real quality I now hate my off the rack shirts. Not even sure what to wear tomorrow.
oxysoxos, I don’t think you should feel badly. The idea of spending $1000 on a shirt, A SHIRT! Is absolutely ridiculous to me. How many times have you noticed the drape of the shirt on the guy you’re talking to?
@@tomblack6972 you have to understand these shirts are not intended for the average person lol. someone worth millions of dollars won’t think twice about paying $1,000 for a shirt. it is literally pocket change
The cheapest ‘bespoke’ option for shirts is to order a size slightly too large and then ask a tailor to make adjustments. There’s a Chinese lady who does this for me regularly and she’s great at it. The shirts fit like a glove.
How much does she pay for the adjustments? My experience is that even if they are able to bring in the sides, the armscye will always be too large. By increasing the size of the shirt, you increase the size of the armscye. This to me is the most obvious and uncomfortable part of a shirt that is too large.
Thank you for putting this together. I have bought high end made to measure shirts around 250 to 350 range with non fused methods. They were very difficult to maintain. Most cleaners in my area could not clean them correctly. I hate the ironed crease after cleaning. The high tread count and multiple ply shirts did not last well. Mailing shirts to another state for cleaning seems a little impractical.
Hey look Kirby, I can’t afford even a 100$ shirt, but you are such a good presenter, that I’m here to stay and watch your enthusiasm for nice clothing. You deserve more more subscribers
Unbelievable detail and a joy to watch and learn so much in such a short period of time
That 1k shirt better be John Wick certified....
You should do a video on hair care. You pull off an awesome classic hairstyle that I wouldn't have any idea how to accomplish.
Would love to see a comparison of a reputable online MTM shirt compared to the bespoke Charvet. No doubt it wouldn’t be the same but would be interesting to see how close it can get with maybe 20% of the cost.
kongmw not going to see that because he won’t make his sponsors look bad. That’s why he won’t compare boot black to his shoe polishes
Using a discount code on a reputable MTM you can get one no different than the $1000 shirt. Try using CIPRIAN_100 on Lanieri.com and tell me how it fits! Mine was as good as a shirt can get, with luxurious fabric.
If the MTM company is really good, not like the majority, but really good; you can get a bespoke shirt in the $150 to $175 range that will truly rival that $1,000 shirt. How do I know? I've been working in the bespoke and MTM markets for years and next year am launching my own brand.
@@rodellis6 What? He isn't sponsored by Charvet, he doesn't sell their products. As far as I can tell, he makes his money solely from the products he sells on his website.
As for comparing Saphir polishes to "boot black," what do you mean? If you mean brands like Kiwi, Kirby has done the comparison numerous times, as have many other people, and the Saphir polishes blow everything else out of the water, especially in terms of ease of use. I can tell you from personal experience that Saphir polishes take a fraction of the time and a fraction of the amount of product to achieve the same shine. Plus, they are available in 12+ colors, while Kiwi, Lincoln, etc. are available in 5 colors at the most. In short, yes, Saphir polishes really are better. They really are worth the extra money - which works out to pennies per shine, anyway.
This was very informative and illuminating. Cheers!
I love the idea of bespoke, and Charvet is undoubtedly a legendary establishment, but hardly anything can justify a $1000 shirt. It's all because of the brand name.
Using a discount code on a reputable MTM you can get one no different than the $1000 shirt. Try using CIPRIAN_100 on Lanieri.com and tell me how it fits! Mine was as good as a shirt can get, with luxurious fabric.
Anonymus0927 totally agree.
There is no amount of detail and craftsmanship that can make a shirt have an actual intrinsic value of $1000.
@@dickJohnsonpeter you pay for the hours worked aswell, and for the experience that the tailor has gained over the years
Always learning something new from you! Thanks
Just discovered the channel... It is so good ! Please continue the good work Mr Allison !
Thanks, Kirby for your advice !what a great show!
I liked Geoffrey Beene dress shirts. Their colors set them apart; very unique yet appropriate for every day wear.
1,000 USD is just too much for a shirt, at least for me...
Yeah, theres just no amount of benefits a $1000.00 shirt can offer, that would offset that price difference imo.
Me too
If you get 10 years out of it then that is only $100 a year what can be bad about that compared to an actual $100 shirt.
@@MrMarconi2010 Is it stain proof, is it impossible to rip it accidently?
I'd rather spend the extra $900 on getting a higher quality suit frankly
I learned a lot in a shirt period of time. Great job.
First, I want to say thank you for the video and the effort taken to produce it. However, personally, I don't think this is the best comparison. Of course there will be differences in the quality between these two shirts, however you are comparing a $100 shirt to a $1000 shirt, which really isn't a fair comparison. Those who are looking to get a $100 won't buy a $1000 shirt and same event will happen the other way. If you are deciding to do a comparison, do it on a $100 shirt to a $250 shirt or $250 shirt to a $500 shirt. Moreover, if you want to do a bespoke comparison, do it between two high-end similar priced bespoke tailors.The price point is much smaller and you can really show off the quality difference while perhaps persuade people to spend a 'bit' more money on it. The structure (showing the quality to look out for) is good but again, you could have done that in a different video. It just seems like a marketing video in the end, rather than being a fair comparison. Anyway, that's my view. There's still great work in the production, script, etc making a nice watch (as always). Thank you :)
Metro Train good points, but does it need to be a fair comparison? I don’t think it is Kirby his intention to talk people into bespoke shirting. Merely to show the array of differences between the two outers of the spectrum. Perhaps Kirby can enlighten us what the goal of this video is.
That being said I’m looking forward to see how the Will Whiting shirts hold up against the Charvet’s. I saw some great pictures passing by on instagram.
Take it for what it is....a comparison.....
@@rooierakker23 Not sure really, was just my thoughts, at the end of the day it's still a good video. Just wanted to give a bit of constructive criticism :)
Metro Train Also, there's plenty of ready-to-wear shirts (even under $100) that have mother of pearl buttons and are, overall, of very good quality. Also, there are made-to-measure companies that offer dozens of different collar options and other customizations, and if all the measurements are taken correctly, the shirt will fit very well! On average, these shirts cost around $150-200. Obviously, Charvet is true bespoke and makes much higher quality products, and is sure a legendary name, but it is still nearly impossible to justify such a price for a shirt.
@@countalma9800 Indeed there is :)
Nice video about $100 shirt vs $1000 shirt. I like the fact that the $1000 shirt has the year of manufacturing in it and the customer signature. My Ross department store 17 1/2 shirt fit my body but doesn't fit my neck. I can't close the collar to wear a tie. That is why custom shirts are better. Department store shirt winkle while you are wearing them.
Could you do a comparison between an English bespoke shirt like a Turnbull & Asser or Budd and one of your Charvet shirts? Great video as always.
Kirby, Do you use starch in your shirts. maybe you can talk about how to best starch shirts
Thanks
I read somewhere that starch embeds crystals into the fabric which abrade the threads. This in turn reduces the life expectancy of the garment. Probably not something one wants to do with a fine shirt. But again if one can afford such a shirt one may not care.
I just watched your video and I absolutely loved it! I found your presentation to be incredibly informative and engaging. You did a great job of breaking down complex concepts into easy-to-understand terms. I also appreciated the humor and personal anecdotes that you sprinkled throughout the video. It made the content more relatable and enjoyable. You're one of the few RUclipsrs who I can consistently count on to deliver high-quality content. Keep up the great work! "I outsourced this feedback to AI"
I cannot tell you the difference wearing a bespoke shirt makes in the way you look and feel. I am also not yet willing to spend at the Charvet level, but Hemrajani and Individualized Shirts, both of whom I currently use, provide bespoke/custom shirts that are excellent and are far less expensive than Charvet. Once you start wearing custom shirts, you'll never want to go back. People make comments such as "you look great- can't quite put my finger on it, but it looks great."
Bespoke shirts by COURTOT in Paris have stood the test of time and do not cost so much.
And now I have a button that popped off so I can practice putting it back on with a shank
My Brooks Brothers Regent fit shirts fit me pretty well. I'm not quite on this level but there's nothing wrong with buying 1000 shirts. I'd be scared to do anything in it.
I use Jos Bank and they now do measure to fit shirts for $100 and it takes 4 weeks to make.
@@tomburke4652 The things people admit in public these days!
Your videos are always bomb dude!!! Keep up the great work!!!
Great video. There were so many elements, that I never noticed. I buy made to measure shirts and suits. It is a compromise, but I am very happy with the service and the quality of the shirts and the suits.
When you have different arm and leg lengths and shoulder widths, like I do, there is no way, that a ready to wear shirt/suit can cover that (literally). Shirts are around €160 and suits between €1‘400 and €2‘000, depending on the fabric. As the host has said, I can chose between many colors (nuances), fabrics…
For me, it is important to have a sales person that knows his/her trade. And not a sales person, who, as the name suggests, just wants to sell a product. Also, it is nice, to go to a store/tailor, talk about purchasing clothes and have a personal relationship instead of doing it online (no pun intended to other responses).
I am happy, that I have that and can count on that.
Would be very interested in a comparison of a made to measure in the $300 range vs. Full bespoke.
We Will Need To Cover Multiple Areas Regarding Business; And Business History Regarding Bespoke; And Its Tailoring; And Input It Into Several Potential Corporate Buy-Out Opportunities; Here in New York; I Believe That; Men's Wearhouse And Joseph Abboud; And Brooks Brothers Is Up For Grabs; And You Will Love Your Business Instinct As It Kicks In To Do That!!!!
A $1,000 shirt may be all well and good as a starter, but surely there's a $5,000 luxury shirt that really sets tongues wagging?
Stefano ricci
Try getting an off the rack shirt to fit well when you have a 19” neck.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you.
You're brilliant. Please note that I once bought a no-iron cotton shirt and it was uncomfortable to wear; it seemed to have a plastic coating on the cotton.
19:23 for the highlight of the video.
blkbrd I use to UPS my shirts to a dry cleaner in NYC. Yep the Great Recession ended that luxury.
I buy my shirts at the thrift store, top quality brands for a fraction of the retail price.
you're not gonna find a $1,000 bespoke shirt at a thrift store. Motherfuckers will be buried in those shirts.
@@bobsbeard3977 Yes you can. Brands like Kiton, Isaia, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, etc. Can all be found at the thrift store. Not that finding a bespoke shirt is very helpful most of time as it's tailored to a specific individual, but if you're very lucky it will fit.
I think he bought a size bigger CH shirt. For me, made to measure is best option. Investing in expensive super quality material and get it tailored made to measure is good idea then given ton of bucks to bespoke tailor. You will get 4 to 5 great quality nice fiting m2m shirt than a bespoke.
Watched this wearing a Loro Piana shirt. Shirt is still comfortable, even after watching this vid, which was excellent.
If I could afford a $1000 shirt... I too would send my shirts to Arizona to be dry cleaned. Fact.
If I could afford $1000 on a shirt, I probably wouldn't even bother dry cleaning it, I'd just throw it away and put on a new one.
i certainly wouldn't be fucking watching videos on RUclips
@@ultrademigod Even if you could afford a $1000, you wouldn't be throwing them away. If you could afford $1000 shirts then maybe you'd do that with the cheap $50 shirts.
@@PBMS123 I think you're over analyzing it a bit.
Thank you. You taught me a lot about shirts.
i'd rather wear a poncho, made of 900 dolla bills, personally
Clout eastwood
Very interesting video, Kirby. My London bespoke shirtmaker, Frank Foster, also uses three different button sizes. I believe others do that too. But the shanked buttons on your Charvet shirts really impressed me, and that's something I have seen on very few bespoke shirts. Charvet cuts no corners. There are many different approaches to bespoke shirts, and there are many bespoke shirtmakers that don't have the same finish standards as Charvet. My Frank Foster shirts come close to your Charvet shirts, but at a quarter the price they can't do quite as much as Charvet. -MS
I did a pespoke white shirt from Brioni. And man it's the best shirt I have ever get! Its fit unbelievable
I love how this channels cheap alternative is super expensive for 95% of worlds population lol
LeFatalpotato but then 95% of the worlds population can’t watch RUclips (censored) or understand English, or has internet access fast enough to watch videos.
@@aussiestallion69 well I guess there is certainly an unlucky populace in the world that is not able to connect to RUclips, but I believe it is in no way close to 95%, I would guess somewhere in the ballpark of 10%. Coming from a country with a gdp per capita of $9k/year, even here more than 90% of people own a device that can connect to internet. And due to ppp, poorer countries have internet access for less than quarter of the price of what Europeans and Americans pay for in an equivalent package
LeFatalpotato you need to do more research, China bans RUclips, the population of China is approx 1.3 Billion people, India has a population of 1.35 Billion people of which only 460 million can access the Internet, so with a global population of 7.6 billion just China and India add up to approx 24% If you do add in English speakers as a first or second language, and estimates vary widely but it’s approx 2 billion of which some of course are in India which a large majority of the educated population speak a English as a second language and of course are very likely to have access to the internet, so estimated 250 million for that. If you do the sums that’s about 23% for English speakers as a first or second language, again not all would have access to high speed Internet so let’s say only 20%, making at least 80% of the global population essentially without access to or understanding of the content of the video. However as you alluded it’s the cost of the less expensive shirt that is unaffordable for 95% of the world population and in that you’re very likely correct!
@@aussiestallion69 Well, for starters, I had not stated anything about people that could understand or even reach the video or not, I only wanted to state that if the number of people that have internet access would not outnumber those that can afford a $100 shirt 100 to 1 I would be seriously surprised! PS: I just checked a website called hostingfacts.com, and it states there are 4.1b active internet users in the world by december 2018, and I really don't care how many of them can speak English or reach this video, it's too much of an hustle for me lol. But I think it would be safe to assume there are less than 41m $100 shirts sold every year lol.
Started to video, wondering how the heck did he found a $1000 shirt. Heard the name "Charvet": I can stop the video right here, right now. I know where the "problem" comes from. I once walked in there, asked about price, starting 600€. I don't see how they can even try to justify their prices, when other legendary places such as Turbnull & Asser (who, as a side note, make shirts for the crown and bond actors) start at 260£ (276€), which is not even half price, for a similar level of make.
And even the sleeves are not attached by hand here...
My favorite Dress Shirts are Eton
I like 'bespoke' shirts also. But for $1,000 I'd wear tees. I had a very competent tailor make custom shirts for me for $60.00. Of course if I wanted very high end cotton, Egyptian or Sea Island it's about $25/yd and up, and I'd need 2.5 yards, but the fabrication would run the same.
Eton and Stenströms have a button shank. Also if you really want a shank and MOP button you can take it to a tailor.
Great video Kirby! How often should I dry clean my suits if I am wearing them day in day out 9-5?
You can buy a blue or white Dr. No cocktail cuff cotton shirt from Turnbull & Asser of Jermyn Street, London, for GB£195 (about US$255). This is the shirt that Sean Connery and Roger Moore wore in the James Bond movies. Hard to beat, unless you MUST wear cufflinks!
Well...what was described was very entry level made to measure. Higher level systems give a very similar adjustability to average bespoke makers and allow one to adjust pretty much all aspects of fit (shoulder slope and posture on each side, collar and cuff details etc.) but are, naturally, quite a bit harder to use than average MTM systems and essentially need a tailor to use it.
I have my MTM shirts made to my bespoke patterns. Also an option with some makers, naturally with digitizing cost. Handmade buttonholes, handsewn buttons and hand finishing in chosen points (I usually like machine finish on my everyday shirts for its durability).
I can't afford either shirts (well, I do own a handful of Carolina Herrera) but what I do is buy off-the-rack clothes and have them tailored. I drive 30 miles to the nearest seamstress and tailor which I found years ago. That still comes out sometimes cheaper than the Carolina Herrera (a brand I respect for her love of a good white shirt)
The value of a good, unassuming seamstress is a staggering blind spot in the conversation. Over a recent "clotheshorse phase" ranging from wonderful $12 Bella+Canvas 3501 blank t-shirts to a pair of bespoke shoes, I found my local tailor to be right up there with those t-shirts in value. This is especially true in the cases where she upgraded or repaired old garments I already owned.
Perhaps there are some reasons that great local tailors don't get airtime. Their craft doesn't scale like a manufacturer's does, and working with them doesn't deliver the dopamine shot of a luxury experience. You have to look for these people, and there are no guarantees - you might get burned a few times before striking gold. (Though Yelp in my experience has been reliable.) Their margins aren't high. So I guess there's no money trail.
But then I go see Emilia in her beat-up storefront emblazoned TUXEDOS, we push through the language barrier, and a $25 pair of darts reforms a tenty ten-year-old shirt into something special. Or an $80 rebuild turns a $55 Nordstrom Rack pair of jeans into something I want to live in all the time, with far better material - and, frankly, far better fit - than a $200 pair of made-to-measure jeans. It's like magic! It makes me want to learn some sewing.
The shirt collar style you sport makes your neck looook looooong.
He spends far more money than he could probably earn from youtube!!!
Hats off Man!
people earn millions from youtube
I think you don't need to spend $1000 to get a fantastic shirt and Charvet's pricing seems excessive. Simon from Permanent Style did a review on Charvet shirts a year or two ago and also highlighted the steep price. There are many Italian shirt makers who rival or even exceed Charvet in terms of quality and finish. And they do a lot by hand. Some would feel that the lack of hand-finishing on a Charvet shirt is a deal breaker, too. But i think that's just a preference: there's no substantial functional advantage to handwork vs. machine stitching.
Hello Kirby,
Thanks for the vidéo, I love your work and your style.
Bon courage
Just noticed my rtw Lorenzini shirts do have a slightly smaller neck button as well. 👔
Probably never would've find out by myself. 🙃
I find your example of $100 off-the-rack shirt to be of poor making at that price point, but maybe USA is different from what I see locally. The Swedish makes I buy for $100-$150 (and that's including 25% VAT!) are far better sewn and has good quality mother of pearl buttons. Your example more illustrates shirts I got in the $40-$50 range (and that again includes 25% VAT). Either way, thanks yet again for your beautifully produced videos!
I bought mine in Florida for $15
I own two Charvet shirts, not bespoke but still awesome!
Can you make a video comparing local dry cleaner to your dry cleaner in Arizona, thanks
Very detailed video. I must say, my favorite shirts are my shirts from MyTailor, thanks to your guidance. While I'm out in Spain in October I will definitely be visiting Cameseria Burgos to have a bespoke shirt made instead of buying a ready to wear souvenir.
I really appreciate these long form videos and how detailed they are. Also I thought you gave a great interview (nice to hear more about how you got started) on the buttoned up podcast (I wish the interview was longer).
This is what I need. Button downs never fit me due to my habit of powerlifting. I may need to bite the bullet and get a custom shirt.
I use my dress shirts often under media lighting which results in more perspiration around the collars than the average wearer. As a result I replace my dress shirts frequently. In your opinion, who makes the best quality bespoke shirt for under $200? Thank you for being a proponent of the art of a gentleman.
Try T M Lewin of London.
You can commission bespoke shirts from Turnbull and Asser or Emma Willis in Jermyn Street. Although there is an initial order of 4 shirts, you can order them individually thereafter, once all your measurements have been done, and the price will be under $500 per shirt. Turnbull & Asser make many of the Royal family’s shirts and both they and Emma Willis hold Royal warrants from HRH the Prince of Wales . However, the extra detail in the Charvet shirts is what Kirby is showing in this video, and I think he is extremely gracious in the way that he points out that he is merely demonstrating, and does not wish to pass judgement on those whose price point is much lower. The whole point about commissioning a bespoke shirt at the very top end is the experience - in the same way that people pay extra for a top of the range watch or car if they can afford it. The experience of going into the elegant Charvet store in Paris, commissioning a shirt and then the experience of enjoying that shirt and feeling special in it each time you wear it is what appeals and makes it worth saving up for, even if you cannot initially afford that price point. Most people won’t have a wardrobe full of bespoke shirts, but saving up and getting a few for the experience is a start.
This was very informative👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Dear Mr. Allison, very useful video. I use to purchase all the shirts that I use for ties from Brioni MTM and I considered them good quality but I will follow your advice and have something from Charvet made for me so I can compare quality, now can you tell me if in U. S. A. I can have somebody measure me to have a few made?? Thanks
Nobody in the country will measure you. Try Argentina first.
Congrats on 100,000!
Hi Kirby, I believe the button on the cuff along the forearm is referred to as a gauntlet button. However, I could be wrong.
Brent Newbury you are correct
Kirby, and gang, what are your thoughts on Eton shirts?
You can get better value for your money.
Eton shirts are fantastic. The care to fabric and cut are well done.
@@GrandMoffTarkinsTeaDispenser name a few
I purchased a Canali shirt for $150. That’s my cap..usually buy Hugo boss for 79$. Kool Vid KIRBY
you can get better value for money than hugo boss if you are buying a shirt.