Good job, looks like you worked hard doing this. You could have made this job easier with a few changes. Strip the sheathing before putting the cable in the box, the wires should be about 2 or 3 inches longer and roll them into the box, it would be easier to make your receptacle connections. You could have used 6/2 Romex and a NEMA 6-50 receptacle, I doubt that the 240v compressor or the 240v welder uses a neutral wire. The white wire would be marked with red or black tape at each end indicating hot. Using 6/3 Romex is not a bad idea though, as you may need it later. Just leave the white (neutral) wire capped with a wire nut in the box. The other end to be landed on the neutral bus bar in the sub panel as you did. While using a separate grounding lug was fine, you could have looped the wire directly around the green grounding screw and then to the receptacle. It's only a 10 gauge wire, not a 6 like the conductors. The neutral wire which is wired in presently should carry no current, because a 240v circuit is a balanced load by default. The neutral connection on a NEMA 14-50 is for loads, e.g. electrical dryers that also have 120v circuitry for the low power needs such as in the control panel lighting, etc.
I used this lug. www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Lug-Copper-8-STR-14-SOL-2-PK/5001719777 I don't know if it's available at Home Depot, I got mine at Lowe's. Hope that helps.
Very nice video ,thanks
Thank you!
Good job, looks like you worked hard doing this. You could have made this job easier with a few changes. Strip the sheathing before putting the cable in the box, the wires should be about 2 or 3 inches longer and roll them into the box, it would be easier to make your receptacle connections. You could have used 6/2 Romex and a NEMA 6-50 receptacle, I doubt that the 240v compressor or the 240v welder uses a neutral wire. The white wire would be marked with red or black tape at each end indicating hot. Using 6/3 Romex is not a bad idea though, as you may need it later. Just leave the white (neutral) wire capped with a wire nut in the box. The other end to be landed on the neutral bus bar in the sub panel as you did. While using a separate grounding lug was fine, you could have looped the wire directly around the green grounding screw and then to the receptacle. It's only a 10 gauge wire, not a 6 like the conductors.
The neutral wire which is wired in presently should carry no current, because a 240v circuit is a balanced load by default. The neutral connection on a NEMA 14-50 is for loads, e.g. electrical dryers that also have 120v circuitry for the low power needs such as in the control panel lighting, etc.
Thanks for the advice! I'll try to remember it for the next time I need to do this job!
Could you make a short video on how your air compressor is wired in and how you made the power cord for it?
This was fun.
Fun or not, it's done and I guess that's what counts.
What kind of grounding nut did you use? was it available at home depot? Please and thanks
I used this lug.
www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Lug-Copper-8-STR-14-SOL-2-PK/5001719777
I don't know if it's available at Home Depot, I got mine at Lowe's. Hope that helps.
What is that switch you use to turn on the compressor on? Is it an appropriate amperage safety disconnect/switch?
It's the factory original equipment switch.
Wires cut too short
You're right, I've learned better since then.
6 agw wire? holy crap how many amps does your quincy draw
He is also using the 240 outlet for a welder which draws more amps than the compressor.
Absolutely right.
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@@lookinginhighplaces600 I’ve never seen real sugar Mountain Dew.
It's sometimes hard to find. Right now, I find it at Walmart.