Quincy QT-54 Shop Air Compressor Electrical
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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Part 1 of 3 of the Speedy's Garage shop air system beginning with wiring up and prepping the Quincy QT-54 compressor for installation. I'm NOT an electrician, this is simply my solution :)
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This is exactly how a master licensed electrician wired mine in with a 50amp plug and receptacle. With a 25amp breaker. He did it this way so I can unplug it and run my welder.
Your direct approach is really nice and helps with better absorbing the content. I will likely be purchasing the same compressor as shown in this video and look forward to wiring it up.
Awesome, thank you!
Wrong. At 5 hp, there is a great chance your pressure switch can’t handle the amperage and will fail quickly. You should install a magnetic motor starter with overloads. It will take the heavy load off the pressure switch and apply it to the starter contacts which will last for the long haul and protect your compressor motor. The starter is not included with unit because it saves the company money and most non electricians don’t know you need it.
Good to know. Right or wrong everything's still working 5 years later without issue.
I have 2 5hp uprights. Still working great 15 and 23 years later with no modifications.
I worked at Quincy for 20 years, and had to answer a LOT of electrical questions, mostly from licensed electricians who probably paid under the table for their license. Basically the connections are under UL 430.52, and start with the Nameplate Amps to determine the breaker and wire size. The Breaker = 2.50 x Nameplate Amps x Motor's Service Factor. This gives the MAXIMUM size, so select the nearest standard one under that value. The breaker rating then sets the wire gauge needed with compensation for distance (not needed for short runs). If as here, a short line, a dryer plug works just fine as they are 30 Amps.
Electrician here. You should use a cord grip when connecting a cable. You used a flexible conduit connector.
Thanks! Now off to Google to see what that is.
what about the common wire? i am new to 230v but i always see 2 hot 1 common and 1 ground. is the ground ok to use as the common?
Hey Speedy, Sorry to burst your bubble , Solderless connectors are not allowed , The proper install on twisted wires are dipped in tin solder , cooled and inserted directly under screws at lugs terminals end . . .
Interesting, since the compressor comes with solderless connectors in it from the factory.
7 years later how's the compressor holding up? I've had my rocking for about 5 years no issues.
Runs like a champ.
I’m about to buy one because my home depot 60 gal. Has some rust in the tank. The husky is no comparison, but it has been in service for 17 years with air in it 24 seven so I will say that it has been a good air compressor and still works, but if I’m gonna buy a new one, I’ll go ahead and spend the money and get a Quincy.
super clean install. nice job.
Always make positively sure you have the correct guage of electrical wire, connectors and plug connector. Never skimp. Starving a motor of power shortens the life of the compressor. Substantually.
You should NOT have displayed your Texas cup holder on camera. Now 10,000 more Yanks are gone'a move to Texas.
Very well done video. Just food for thought, your installation using a NEMA plug is not code compliant. This either needs to be direct-wired or you need to use a horsepower-rated connector ($$$). NEC 430.108.
I got mine straight to a disconnect(safety switch) and from the disconnect to the panel... a little bit over kill but there where a few left over disconnects at work and my Master said that he didn’ wanted to carry those back to the shop so I carried them to my shop instead 💪🏼
That was an excellent video S/G. Clear and to the point. Really very well done. I’ve decide on this same compressor, as well as installing a plug on it instead of hard-wiring, so it was good to see it done. Especially with all the review comments on how “tight” the wiring box is. Which it is, but after watching you, really not a big deal at all. Especially liked your sound-deadening room. Wanted one but had not thought it thru yet. I’m going to copy yours exactly. Thanks for a great video.
My unit is not in the closit..it needs plenty of air..to breathe..and needs to stay at room temperature. My unit is hard wired..from the magnetic starter to the disconnect box..then to the fuse box ..use # 6 wire..for a 5hp. As rule of thumb..45 amp.dlb pole breaker..min..alway s use a magnetic starter..even if yours didn't come with it..it will save your motor..in the long run..Saylor-beall includes the magnetic starter on all there units they build..I have one in my home hobby shop...no more home store units..been through a few..china.....made..crap. ty for your video...
If I understand correctly, in order to put it on a plug, the plug itself has to be rated for the HP rating of the motor. As that's a 5HP motor, it was placed on a 3HP plug (NEMA 14-50?), correct? I thought for all practical purposes that a 5HP+ motor was supposed to be direct wired, hence not shipping with a cord. Otherwise, these things would be regularly shipping with NEMA 14-50 or 6-50 cords as a standard option, right? My QT-54 has not yet arrived though, so I might be missing something in the details.
like your detailed videos and your garage looks great.
The spec sheet says that this unit it rated for 24 amps and a 50 amp breaker is recommended. A 50 amp breaker is good for 40 amps with 8 gauge wire for non continuous loads. 30 amp breaker is good for 24 amps, so you should be fine as long as it's on a dedicated circuit.
Good video. I just installed my new Quincy this past weekend. Pleased with it so far. Don't know why the manual says no isolators. It's been common practice for decades. I put rubber pads under mine, helped with the vibration in the garage quite a bit. That thing vibrated the whole floor without them. Seems like a no-brainer to me.
I replaced an old Craftsman Professional single stage. Same voltage, but had a 20a breaker. Wires are plenty big, so I figure I'll just replace the breaker if it can't handle it but so far it's run perfectly with that little 20 amp breaker.
I did the 1hr break in, let it cool, then let it pump up the tank.
Bottom drain was leaking. Had to tighten it. Air filter was loose, had to tighten it. Otherwise, it's been fine. A bit louder than my older one, but it moves a LOT more air, too.
Looking good sir! I am excited to see the next videos on the install and line run! Are you planning on running an air cooler for the compressed air? Keep up the good work!
I did not plan an air cooler. The shop has AC so I'm hoping I wont need it. If I get in to some big projects down the road (painting or something a long those lines) I can add one. Stay tuned for parts 2 and 3 :)
As others have stated, that particular receptacle would not be rated for 5hp. The ones that are rated for 5hp are very expensive called "Pin and Sleeve" type. They are around $200 for the plug and $250 for the receptacle. A 10hp disconnect such as a GE TFN60RCP cost $7 but is straight wired and you can't unplug the compressor. :-(
Thanks for the info, if it's ever a problem as wired I'll be sure to let folks know.
dammm thats a clean garage
And now your warranty is void…. These machines aren’t made to plug in. That’s why they don’t come with a plug!! Read your manuals!!! Hard wire only!
I called Quincy direct and shared my diagrams with them. All was OK'd by them. That was 7 years ago and all's been well but if I ever have trouble I'll be sure to update.
I'm wiring mine direct because I'm too cheap to by another receptacle and plug. Also too many choices for plug standards.
Thsi is one of the clearest explanation for wiring I have seen and I looked at about 10 of them, this one helped me understand how to wire it correctly thank you very much for the video
I'm no electrician. Some have said it should be hard wired and not use a plug, and a bigger breaker, but I've not had any issues in 5 or so years of use.
Thanks for the video. Mine didn't come with the manual and Quincy does respond to getting one. Their web site doesn't even have them. I'm gonna put a chiller on mine next summer.
Great video, I taught the Quincy Techs on rebuilds and installations for 25 years, the one question or concern I would have is regarding ambient temperature in the compressor closet. As noted you have a vent fan, but what is the closet temp? The motor is limited to a 104 F maximum, and the compressor will run great in the 70 to 95 F continuous. We tested them in 100 F rooms non stop for 1 year, (stopped for maintenance) and had good results. good luck with it.
Shop had AC so never gets very hot in the closet.
What's your take on being directly controlled off pressure switch? Never be e seen Quincy do that. Champion doesn't either.
Beautiful Shop. Does your wife ask for your help makeing the house have that kind of detailed organised look?............:)
Great vid! Is that a metal flex conduit 90°? Did it provide enough strain relief/support for your cable?
Yes
Speedy's Garage Nice
You should put electrical tape on each end in the you first showed, just a safety suggestion
i got a 50 amp oven range cord. slightly modified the fittings and it works great.
Really good video. I’m doing the same thing now. Can you tell me the product names and part numbers for your plug and outlet? I have a very old 220 outlet and I’d like to change it to a new one that locks. I can’t remember if you have a locking plug or not.
But I’d appreciate any help you can offer.
You are very good at making videos. No stumbling or mumbling. Very diligent.
Thanks,
Paul
An electrician installed those with the shop build. I can't see any brand names on them but when we bought switches through the electrician they were Leviton so perhaps the same brand?
Thanks for the well-done video. I wish the "internet electricians" in the comments could be a little clearer. Like you, I am not an electrician. But I have the same Quincy compressor, and I'm working on install. I live in the US mountain west. It's almost impossible to get an electrician in my area to answer the phone--unless you have a large project for them. It sounds like the most correct way to do it is to use a disconnect switch with a hardwire connection. That's a good start!
That seems to be the case everywhere. Unless you are spending 10k+, nobody will even show up.
Probably best if you don't install an extractor fan in the ceiling.... a compressor thats generating 16CFM at 90PSI will be pulling in the entire volume of that closet every few minutes ;)
Not really if you think about it. Compressor only runs a few minutes at a time and the heat comes from when it runs. The fan is 50cfm if memory serves as well and will pull air from the path of least resistance, which is cooler air from under the closet door. At least that's my theory LOL.
its an interesting question... Im in the process of building a closet in my shop for my home mechanicals and the compressor.. so thinking it though myself at the moment! Mines a QT-5 17.2 ACFM Quiincy, low rpm but I've been trying to decide between a passive acoustic baffle with vents and an induction fan into the closet. Just roughly.. ignoring thermal effects... if a compressor is producing 16 CFM at 90 PSI, its drawing in 96 CFM at atmospheric pressure....generating a low pressure within the closet and making both the fan and the compressor work harder. Its a good idea to run the fan for cooling but only when the compressor is not running. If you're interested... I think theres a vid on my channel about fitting a hobbs meter to a Quincy to track oil changes! Gunna be following your advice for the MAX line for sure!
Great video thank you very much
I just bought this compressor and installed it today. I put bolts into the concrete and the feet rest on rubber/metal pads. In the manual it says to initially run the compressor for 1 hour, and to then re-torque the heads. Did you do this?
I didn't run bolts through the feet and mine hasn't budged in over a year. I DID run the unit for 1 hour and re-torque the bolts.
read your manual, you do not use rubber pads just bolt straight to concrete with nylon locking nuts and leave loose or welds will crack. thats what is says in manual
Awesome vid. When I say you build a “quiet room” I said this guys knows! I too was a wrench and listening to the compressor all day was maddening. Lol.
That room will cause issues for extensive run times. Water will blow out the airlines.
Can you provide some detail on how you wired the lighted wall switch in? What switch did you use? Thanks, great video series.
It's just a standard wall switch, just illuminated and 30A in rating.
Excellent instructional video. I’m wiring up my Quincy air compressor. Can you provide purchasing info for the black box 220v plug you showed in the video, please?
you are the real deal!
i noticed you're part of the Texas Mile 278 MPH club. That.Is.Fast!
Motorcycle or car?
I was just pit crew for my buddy Sam. Those coozies were souvenirs. Sam does hold the record for a Dodge Challenger at 212MPH though.
Nice video how’s the Quincy working out. I like this compressor. I agree buy once cry once
Working out great. I've not found any jobs thus far it wasn't up to, including using a die grinder at full tilt for hours.
I used a 12 gauge wire on my Curtis 5hp 60 gal 2 stage. I have only a 5 foot to my plug in. I used a 10 wire to the box to plug into which the 10 wire is only about 5 foot to. So a littler overkill as maybe I would need bigger from my plug in to the box. The wire from the pressure switch to the motor was 12 gauge to motor. You can google what size wire you need for your length. Never had a problem with mine and its a 3 cylinder and its 40 years old now. I used 4 1/2 inch bolts with hard rubber pads so you can move it easy if need be. Which has been in the way a few times being so close to the main box and furnace. When it runs it never has moved. And it's more heavy than the Quincy that I have in the other shop. That runs off a short box that you plug into the box on the wall. Every once in awhile I have to replace the the 220 plugs. When am done using it a just un plug it rather than using the regulator. Easyer for me to unplug it case my tractor is along side of it.
I appreciate the useful info you included in the video, but how is the compressor going to cool its pump if it's just recirculating hot air inside that closet?
I think I showed in the video the fan unit in the ceiling and explained how it pulls cool air from under the door and exhausts out the top of the closet. So far I've really only needed to run the fan a time or two under very heavy tool use (spraying something). The compressor hasn't has to run enough to heat it up using impacts and what not. 60 gallons goes a long way I guess LOL.
not to shabby for a non electrician
Hey I have the same compressor but I have a 4 wire plug red black green and white...does the white wire from my plug screws into to same metal that the green wire is screwed to on the pressure switch or is the white wire not used
You definitely helped me out, thank you!
dude. where did you buy the cable and plug? i can't find it locally either. i need 240volt 15 amp. 3 wire. and no where has this combo. thanks in advance.
I got it from one of the big chain home improvement stores.
thanks! i guess i will go fishing again lol
bill mc Hit up an electrical supply house. Home Depot is not your friend when it comes to strange wire sizes (the one you always need).
PLEASE PLEASE be aware that Quincy "consumer" side (these compressors are considered a consumer not industrial compressor) of company doesnt give a flip about the products they are putting out. My pressure switch went bad after 3 yrs. I can hold my own with mechanical/electrical issues so I looked up the part number that was on the compressor and it was for a single stage, 125 PSI comp. When I called Quincy and asked why this switch was on a 175 PSI 2 stage unit, the Qunicy rep said "parts must have got mixed up" Seriously??????? He didnt offer ANY solution, not even the correct switch. They use cheap switches so if yours ever goes bad, get a Square D.
You need to check your Quincy manual because my 5hp Quincy manual specifically states it is not to be mounted with isolators.
Dunno why that would be but i'm not changing it lol
If its bolted to the floor, it has to sit on isolators or the tank will crack from vibration.
@@paulhickey4485 not according to Quincy QP5 manual, but you are obviously a keyboard ninja that knows more than Quincy. Okay....
Speedy, someone probably already pointed it out but that ground that goes to the motor sure looked loose at around 10:48. Thanks for the videos, I am in the process of building my garage and I have totally ripped off your soundproof closet idea, your air distribution idea and even your garage color scheme! Semper Fi, Bill
Its good but even quincy themselves tell u to hardwire them with no plug so now i am confused i have always been told u should hardwire these compressors but this seems efective i need atleast a 80 gallon though the 60 is to small for me to paint allover cars
Hello, I bought a similar compressor (quincy 80 gallon / mag start) and I see that quincy says to use a 60amp breaker on this compressor. My question is, I see that you used a nema 6-50 (50amp plug and receptical) Is this OK? I am not able to find a 3 prong 60amp plug/receptical
I'm no electrician, but mine's worked just fine and the parts I used are what were recommended to me.
Great, for sure I am not an electrician either but I do play one on tv. Thanks for the response
My electrician used a 30 amp breaker for my Quincy 7.5 HP 80 gallon. The motor was only rated at 28 amps.
@@Dev_Everything I have a Quincy that sounds like yours. 5hp, 80 gallon... I measured inrush current at 50amps. That is why Quincy requires a circuit ampacity of 60amps. That is essential for proper motor start.
@@wjjohns04able bad electrician! He failed to account for inrush current at motor start. Quincy installation manual for QP-5 5hp requires 60amp. Inrush current for the 5hp motor is 50amps, running current is 22amps.
why is the common? you have 2 hot and a ground? is the ground the common? I just bought this compressor. thanks
What size elbow did you use to mount the wires into the switch box of the compressor at 7:15?
I think it was 5/8 but it's been a while.
How is holding up?
I switched to a rotory screw compressor and I'll never go back to a piston type
Very thorough and excellent explanation.
FYI if you have 208 volts your going to need a boost transformer or your running the risk of burning up the motor.
You're asking for trouble putting that compressor in the closet. If it runs much it will get hot and you will have a lot of water in your lines. I've serviced many compressors in that scenario. Also that switch will not hold up to that motor. Starting amps are high. I can't believe Quincy shipped that without a magnetic motor starter. They're a more reputable company than that.
Working fine going on 6 years now.
how much was the compressor in 2016.. its $1699.99 in 2021
From memory I think I got it on sale for $1299 but it's been a while and I'm old so my memory may not be what it used to be :)
@@SpeedysGarage I paid $2099 for one last week at Northern Tool, and that was the cheapest I could find it.
Wired it up last night.
2023 it's now $2100.
Question I’m
Looking to buy a 10hr 80gal 2-stage one and it recommends 60a breaker and it has 40a running and 80a start up. I don’t understand electric all i know is my old compressor has 8/2 cable rated at i believe 45a and i have a 50a double pull breaker. I’m a little confused why they reconnect a 60a breaker but they say it’s 80a start us. Can someone tell me if I’m ok with my 8/2 and 50a breaker or so i need to update my line. Any help appreciated.
BJ Putvain I've been an electrical designer since 1983 and engineer since 2007. Running amps is 40. Math for reader is 40x1.25=50 amps. So minimum breaker is 50 amps. You should go up to a 60 amp because it is suggested by manufacturer. The minimum wire size is #8 copper for the 40 amps of running current. The breaker will be able to ride through the inrush. Best wishes, be safe! Kevin
ya know.. with all that mooshing around in there, did you note that when you were pushing on the green wire on the compressor side, it was rubbing the insulation on the metal elbow passthru.. not protected like you did with the grommet on the plug side of the box...
Came like that from Quincy and figure if they're shipping like that no need. The side I made has softer insulation. Everything's worked great for a couple years now.
thanx speed.
Nice job!
I didn't get any connectors from Quincy!🤔
This didn't require a NEMA Type S Motor Starter ?
Thanks for the video . Even the wiring looked quite well for the layout. Thanks.
So are you just using your breaker as your on/off switch for the compressor ?
There's a switch on the wall by the compressor.
@@SpeedysGarageoh you found a 230v switch then. The box stores don’t sell
Those here.
I think it's a Leviton 50A or something red illuminated switch. Some pro electricians state it shouldn't be done this way as there's a danger if you unplug the compressor while it's running, which I'll never do lol. It's worked A OK for going on 8 years now.
You want to know what my guess is????? All 60 gallon compressor pumps are the same and built in the same Chinese factory and labeled and painted for the company. If this is true, it doesn’t matter what company you buy it from. Just a guess tho
If you are only talking about 60gal compressors at big box stores, yeah, they are all about the same. But this Quincy is a different breed. Also they are made in America. This 5hp is starting to be a serious tool, but I plan to get the 7.5hp, because I'm not playin'.
You don't use a plug on a motor this big. You wire it to a disconnect switch.
That's what some folks say.....however it's been fine for over 3 years. I think the key is don't unplug it with it running....kinda common sense really.
@@SpeedysGarage In the event of an emergency and you needed to disconnect power, you'd wish you had a disconnect so you don't have to pull a plug. Being able to disconnect high current draw items from the "hots" is exactly why disconnects exist.... Kinda "common sense" really...
This circuit is on a circuit breaker. Can easily be shut off in an emergency from across the shop if the need were to ever arise.
Where did you get the rubber mats?
Tractor Supply.
Not pressure lubed? Not worth buying the Quincy name. All the splash lubed pumps are made in the same factory in chynah
For the everyday guy this is very impractical having to wire the thing 😒
most 240v compressors need to be hard wired.
To be fair, this isn't a consumer good. This is designed for use by shops
If you're an "everyday guy", then you don't need this compressor. If you need this compressor, then you're handy enough to figure out how to wire up a 3 wire plug with no problem.
Remember.. the Websites often list this as 25 AMP ITS NOT ITS 50! ive seen this mentioned a lot of places and it happened to me so get the right size breaker n wire.
It's actually 21 amps but most folks use 30A breaker to account for wire run distance. Label showing amps is right on the compressor.
Different styles of plugs have different Amp and voltage ratings. 50A/ 240v seems to be the standard plug/ socket for 240v welders, so I think it would be a good choice for a compressor in a shop. Obviously make sure you have a 50A (or less) breaker + wiring capable of handling 50A if you choose that socket type, because fires are bad...
I just fell into this video and watched it to see your shop! looks cool! I'm not telling you what to do but, im gonna tell you what happened to me and what was taught to me by and old man who only builds and works with electric motors cuz he fixed mine! my Baldor motor is 26 Amps! he said, and I learned, the hard way, that with a smaller breaker "your not letting enough current through to the starter windings with a 30 amp breaker and the contacts are staying together longer to rotate the motor and your burning them up!" he told me to hard wire and run at least a 45 amp breaker. and I've also found that Quincy recommends a larger breaker also! if you dont want to burn up your starter windings,...at the very least, change your breaker! oh by the way, i got my quincy free because of it, minus the $135.00 for starter windings and I ran it for 15 years in my shop until it broke a rod!
and Vollick is correct! they want you to run there motors with 50amp breakers
@@TheThorgoesinya That's not correct. The amperage is getting through any breaker, unless the breaker trips. They don't restrict the amperage, just just trip if they see too much. The only reason you'd need a higher amperage breaker is if the initial load on it trips it.
What gauge of conductor are you using?
I don't recall, it's a big one though.
@@SpeedysGarage You can't recall or you just don't share it with me?? 6 gauge buddy!
LOL, I'd tell ya if I could remember. I got it at the hardware store and built the plug. It was like 5/8" thick. Did you check the wiring video to see if it's in that?
@@HollywoodRoseJack : You may want to give him a little bit of a break... He's obviously a DIYer who doesn't do this more than he has to. It did look like 6 AWG to me as well, but keep in mind that he didn't even know the name of what he purchased; it's called SO Cord (pronounced 'S' 'O'). For 30A he could have just purchased 10-3, which meets code. For 50A, code is 8 AWG. That being said, for anything "shop" related, I like to go "1-up" than what I need just for good measure. So for a 30A breaker in your shop I would recommend using 8 AWG and 6 AWG if it's a 50A breaker. Anyway, if you used 6 AWG for a 30A breaker then you are more than fine and although it cost you more than it needed to, you can chock it up to having a good "piece of mind" factor. Finally, I wouldn't have cut that Neutral wire short like he did. I would have folded it back and secured it with the pro grade heat shrink; the thick stuff with glue embedded into it. That way, if ever he needed to change it over he would already have the conductor. You'd use all 4 if the machine needed 110V like for some sort of light or digital panel or something of that sort. You'd also use all 4 if you're building a panel for 50A RV shore power.
@@TrailTrackers i am about to wire mine up. i see him using the ground as the common. is this how it is done? my socket has a 3 hole receptacle. So do i use the ground as a common? thanks for your help.
WOW..jamming alot of big conductors into small box.bit undersided
Ya keep saying everything works fine..that dosen't mean it's done right..wondering if you have a magnetic starter after your disconnect..that box you were wiring.
I can't make out what you're trying to convey...maybe typing on a phone and spell check or something, but no there is no magnetic starter, etc. Just plugged in to the wall as shown. 30A breaker in the fuse box for that circuit. I'm not an electrician, but this is how the licensed electricians set it up. Electrician installed another 50A plug for a welder as well but I've not used it yet. Same setup.
This comment is simply nonsense.