Thank you for the video. I am bought new shocks to replace all 4 on my 1998 Silverado. I did the back ones yesterday, and will do the fronts today. Great video and I appreciate the help. T
The nut on the shock's top mount was so rusted on my OBS...I wound up following a tip to use a deep well socket and a couple of extensions and just start yanking the extension back and forth. And sure enough the stud broke below the nut. My replacement shocks came with new nuts for the top mount anyway.
@@AARON-by9pf 430,000? Holy crap. This only has 200k. My daily driver is a Ford 7.3 but it’s slow as can be lol, I like the old square body chevy’s and gmc’s better. If only they still made them that way.
No you can’t. There’s no friggin way you are able A. Hold the stem of the shock While B. Wrenching that nut off with your other free hand Without taking that tire off IMHO. Unless you have robot arms buddy it ain’t happening
@YOSUCUS Dude, I literally did what I stated on my 97 c1500. By removing the air filter box on the passenger side of the engine compartment, you have direct access to the stud for the shock, and enough room for an air impact drill.
The 1s I took off were all the way tightened down. I finally got to use this little set of calipers I have had forever and tightened them at 25mm top of threads to top of nut. 🤷♂️🤦♂️🤷♂️🤦♂️
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Thank you for the video. I am bought new shocks to replace all 4 on my 1998 Silverado. I did the back ones yesterday, and will do the fronts today. Great video and I appreciate the help. T
Awesome, glad to know I helped. I am long overdue for making new videos
I finished putting on the front shocks yesterday. Success! Thanks for the help.
Great video man! Exactly how it needed to be done on my truck! Thank you
Glad it helped
Right to the point. Good job
The nut on the shock's top mount was so rusted on my OBS...I wound up following a tip to use a deep well socket and a couple of extensions and just start yanking the extension back and forth. And sure enough the stud broke below the nut. My replacement shocks came with new nuts for the top mount anyway.
One of the very few good things about living in California is there's no rust anywhere lol
The nut and stud on mine kept bending metal, I did the socket and extensions thing and it broke, popped right off. Thank you
This by far one of the easiest jobs to do on these obs trucks.
True that, everyone should be able to basic things like this to save money
@@nathanbishop1999 yes sir. Just like changing their own oil , doing a tune up , or any other general maintenance 👍
Excellent. Thanks. Now to go do it on the real thing.
Smart to use closed captioning, not to many people do
Great video love to see a big 3 upgrade
Thanks! This truck was my grandfathers who passed away a long time ago so I have been doing a ton of work to it to keep it going. It runs great
@@nathanbishop1999 l know 👀 I got 430,000 miles👌 I work on mine all the time
@@AARON-by9pf 430,000? Holy crap. This only has 200k. My daily driver is a Ford 7.3 but it’s slow as can be lol, I like the old square body chevy’s and gmc’s better. If only they still made them that way.
@@nathanbishop1999 hell yeah I'm religious with my oil changes and I got mods 👍
Good job
Heads up, this can be done without removing the wheel. Its actually easier to remove the Air Filter box, and go in from the top.
Thank you, I’ll do that the next time. I never do any research before hand, I just take the stuff apart and put it back together some how lol
No you can’t. There’s no friggin way you are able
A. Hold the stem of the shock
While
B. Wrenching that nut off with your other free hand
Without taking that tire off IMHO. Unless you have robot arms buddy it ain’t happening
@YOSUCUS Dude, I literally did what I stated on my 97 c1500. By removing the air filter box on the passenger side of the engine compartment, you have direct access to the stud for the shock, and enough room for an air impact drill.
@@acid360delta7same
I have a 93 chevy silverado what's the socket sizes ??.
How tight is the top nut supposed to be?
Every single nut was tightened by hand and a little extra. I know there are torque specs for every single nut and bolt but I haven’t had any leaks yet
The 1s I took off were all the way tightened down. I finally got to use this little set of calipers I have had forever and tightened them at 25mm top of threads to top of nut. 🤷♂️🤦♂️🤷♂️🤦♂️
My old shock had the top of it deteriorate from the pressure so now I’m doing it with a snapped bolt and shitty top
Your friend looks different from mine, I'm guessing yours is a 1500 two-wheel drive, I have a 2500 4-wheel drive.
Yes the k-series front ends are different from the c-series.
You’re right, I’ll change the description to 2 wheel drive
Cant read those damn red captions
Buy some glasses
Question, is it the same technique to change them in a Suburban GMC 4 x 4 ?