I just got my New Bilsteins today for my 91 Silverado. I'm going out to spray the HECK out of ANYTHING that needs SCREWED, TURNED, REMOVED, or Tightened.....cause my luck is just about like your video went....THanks for the Heads UP,....
There is a shock tool just for this Lisle # 20400 for $13.99 O'Reilly has them it is well worth the money. It is used for removal and installing saved me a lot of time also wire brushing the threads before starting helps then spray with PB Blaster or WD 40.
pb blaster is better than wd40 for penetrating, you should check out Project Farms videos on penetrating oil, then make your own 50/50 atf/acetone pentratant
I think you should have started with the top shock nut, as I did, to avoid that breakage problem you had with the lower bolts. My big problem was breaking the top shaft off while trying to turn the rusty nut. I had to get in there with a 3" grinding wheel (after first getting the wires out of the way and hopefully not breaking any). Then I was able to cut the nut in half and insert a chisel through the hole in the upper A arm and hammer the bastard off.
Jim Ervin that’s rough. Sorry you had that happen. Possibly you’re correct on that theory for my situation. I personally think the nuts were so rusted and old it was going to happen either way. However we will never know lol.
@@obsrookie I believe I need a 13mm socket for those bottom two bolts. My 15 mm was too big. I still haven't fully adjusted to the metric system but I do want to be able to say that I replaced at least one of my front shocks if my back and neck will let me.
My apologies for my earlier criticism. Now I find that those bottom bolts can break off no matter if you do take off the top nut first. The only thing I or you didn't try first was heating the bottom bolts with a propane torch. I was out of propane and not all that sure that it would have made any difference anyhow. Besides that, I didn't know that the square nut was spot welded inside the A arm. But now I do and it looks like I've got the same drilling and thread tapping job as you had to do. My consolation is in knowing what this job would have cost me (or you) if I'd taken the truck to a shop and they had the same problem.
hell yea this is what i needed, just bought some monroe shocks cause when i go over bumps in my 95 k1500 it just sounds like absolute shit. but i plan on saving up at least 5,000 and putting a 6.0 in it with brand new everything. what major fixes do you recommend for it to last until then? i know you’re probably busy with all the corona shit but you seem to know a lot about this sorta thing. anyways take care and stay safe!
Orion Petrie one of the most common things to go out is ac/heat and fuel pumps on these guys. Overtime complete front end builds is a great idea as well which is what most of my videos are about. Just like any car make sure you get tune ups done regularly and you should be golden. Just deal with things as they come up.
I noticed you have bolt in ball joints… is that an aftermarket control arm or did you press in the bolt on and drill for the bolts? I’ve been looking to beef up my upper control arms with no luck finding anything.
The control arms are stock. If you want nicer aftermarket ones I know rough country has some. We had to actually drill the holes out and I think thread them? I can’t remember as this was several years back but the ball joints were a PITA
I’m with nano they are really great suspensions for the price. If you’re replacing shocks you may as well lift it. You can get a great bundle deal with shocks included for these models with rough country. I personally have N3. Really just depends what you use your truck for. If you want top of the line-highway miles only consider BDS-more $$$. if you don’t care for the smoothest ride but want it to take some hits N3 is the best of both worlds
Yes I always use two stands at all times and we have a regular pump jack as well. I still use the scissor jack for some stuff especially if it’s just to hold a specific part. But no I never support the weight of the truck with one
MrGrombie yes, the lower control arm does have WELDED nuts with threads attached to the inside portion of the control arm as you can see in my thumbnail. What exactly did you break?
What problem are you talking about the front shocks are the same as the stock shocks....on their rear the shocks are extended... what problem are you having
@@obsrookie my bad I’m meant the front shocks, the bottom two bolts that holds the shock, like in yer video u put the bolts back in don’t over tighten it?
I just got my New Bilsteins today for my 91 Silverado. I'm going out to spray the HECK out of ANYTHING that needs SCREWED, TURNED, REMOVED, or Tightened.....cause my luck is just about like your video went....THanks for the Heads UP,....
There is a shock tool just for this Lisle # 20400 for $13.99 O'Reilly has them it is well worth the money. It is used for removal and installing saved me a lot of time also wire brushing the threads before starting helps then spray with PB Blaster or WD 40.
pb blaster is better than wd40 for penetrating, you should check out Project Farms videos on penetrating oil, then make your own 50/50 atf/acetone pentratant
I always put locktide on the two lower nuts on the shocks, don't want them coming loose
I'm going to start mine in the afternoon tomorrow. Thanks for uploading this video!!!👍👍
You’re an awesome mechanic !🤙🏽
Awesome video kiddo! Thanks for your help and keep it up! You’ll be famous like vice grip garage one day 😂
I think you should have started with the top shock nut, as I did, to avoid that breakage problem you had with the lower bolts. My big problem was breaking the top shaft off while trying to turn the rusty nut. I had to get in there with a 3" grinding wheel (after first getting the wires out of the way and hopefully not breaking any). Then I was able to cut the nut in half and insert a chisel through the hole in the upper A arm and hammer the bastard off.
Jim Ervin that’s rough. Sorry you had that happen. Possibly you’re correct on that theory for my situation. I personally think the nuts were so rusted and old it was going to happen either way. However we will never know lol.
@@obsrookie I believe I need a 13mm socket for those bottom two bolts. My 15 mm was too big. I still haven't fully adjusted to the metric system but I do want to be able to say that I replaced at least one of my front shocks if my back and neck will let me.
My apologies for my earlier criticism. Now I find that those bottom bolts can break off no matter if you do take off the top nut first. The only thing I or you didn't try first was heating the bottom bolts with a propane torch. I was out of propane and not all that sure that it would have made any difference anyhow. Besides that, I didn't know that the square nut was spot welded inside the A arm. But now I do and it looks like I've got the same drilling and thread tapping job as you had to do. My consolation is in knowing what this job would have cost me (or you) if I'd taken the truck to a shop and they had the same problem.
Freeze off is way better than pb blaster and any other penetrating spray.
Did you have to remove the spring and spindle to get the shock through
hell yea this is what i needed, just bought some monroe shocks cause when i go over bumps in my 95 k1500 it just sounds like absolute shit. but i plan on saving up at least 5,000 and putting a 6.0 in it with brand new everything. what major fixes do you recommend for it to last until then? i know you’re probably busy with all the corona shit but you seem to know a lot about this sorta thing. anyways take care and stay safe!
Orion Petrie one of the most common things to go out is ac/heat and fuel pumps on these guys. Overtime complete front end builds is a great idea as well which is what most of my videos are about. Just like any car make sure you get tune ups done regularly and you should be golden. Just deal with things as they come up.
What size are the bolts at the bottom bro?
I noticed you have bolt in ball joints… is that an aftermarket control arm or did you press in the bolt on and drill for the bolts? I’ve been looking to beef up my upper control arms with no luck finding anything.
The control arms are stock. If you want nicer aftermarket ones I know rough country has some. We had to actually drill the holes out and I think thread them? I can’t remember as this was several years back but the ball joints were a PITA
Hi great video i just have a question where do get the bolts?
Yes the wrench is called a gear wrench
Why do you have to jack it?
You rock!!!
Nice vid. Thankd
Thanks bro. I’m doing a replacement shocks on my 1991 Chevy, what brand do you suggest? Good quality but not too expensive
Booga 69 n3 rc shock are one of the best just did mine but whole front and back kit was 200$ so if that’s your budget go for it
I’m with nano they are really great suspensions for the price. If you’re replacing shocks you may as well lift it. You can get a great bundle deal with shocks included for these models with rough country. I personally have N3. Really just depends what you use your truck for. If you want top of the line-highway miles only consider BDS-more $$$. if you don’t care for the smoothest ride but want it to take some hits N3 is the best of both worlds
Rockauto.com has better parts for good price.
Will this work with a 6-inch Lift from Rough Country for the two wheel drive?
Pls tell me you have a normal jack and jack stands, and not just a scissor jack that came with the truck
Yes I always use two stands at all times and we have a regular pump jack as well. I still use the scissor jack for some stuff especially if it’s just to hold a specific part. But no I never support the weight of the truck with one
Does the control arm have threads? I broke mine today... gonna have to work on it tomorrow.
MrGrombie yes, the lower control arm does have WELDED nuts with threads attached to the inside portion of the control arm as you can see in my thumbnail. What exactly did you break?
Same thing happened to me today
So tomm I’m puttin a 4inch lift on my 94 chevy c1500 but I’m wordy abou the shocks, so how do u fix the problem?
What problem are you talking about the front shocks are the same as the stock shocks....on their rear the shocks are extended... what problem are you having
@@obsrookie my bad I’m meant the front shocks, the bottom two bolts that holds the shock, like in yer video u put the bolts back in don’t over tighten it?
would a pipe plug socket work better?
#BeastModeManiac for the nut on the shock?
These nuts😂
1:19
How old are you hahaha Advanced for your age for sure
I’m 27 now so you do the math.
Sounds 12
@@chad7789 thank you for the compliment