RGB SCART Cables: Shielded vs Unshielded
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2017
- This video goes into detail about why using shielded RGB cables make a difference.
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Here's raw captures: drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx8t...
Here's the original "Pt1" Overview Video: • $6 RGB SCART Cable vs ...
Cables for each console can be found here: www.retrorgb.com/systems.html
A video on how to check the components in your RGB SCART cables can be found here: • How To Test Components...
In the video, I reference a "noise floor". Basically, that means all analog cables will have SOME kind of noise or interference going through it, but it's only noticeable if you crank the volume on silent parts: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise_f... 
Игры
Reminder: Here's the RAW captures for anyone interested: drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx8tjenQN4oLVm5hRlVUejI1SFU/view?usp=sharing
do you have a pdf guide showing how to mod the n64 cable for csync? also what value of resistor is needed for it? if you could, can you link the resistor needed? :D
hey, my wife said that you're looking a lot better these days, good work! She always sees me watching your stuff lol
Great video, Bob. Started supporting you on Patreon and hope your back isn't hurting anymore.
Holy god, that Crosspoint 32 is a tank! I love it. I have an Ultra 1212HVA and thought that sucker was big.
Would have been nice to see how the modded cheepy did vs the fully shielded one.
I got both of those and the image diff is about 10-15% better on shielded, but the biggest diff is on the audio buzz which is gone on the shielded cable.
So what if any difference is there in picture quality between HDRetrovision component cables and a fully shielded RGB cable? One any better than the other or does it just depend on the setup? Assume both would be plugged into an OSSC and output to a flat screen over HDMI.
I use regular scart cables with c-sync from retrogamingcables through a Bandridge switcher, and I have very mixed experience with audio buzz. Most consoles have no discernible audio buzz at the volume I play at, at least through the stereo speakers I use, but the Genesis in particular has quite noticeable buzz. I use the model 1 cable that pulls audio from the jack on the front, maybe that's relevant. The PC Engine Duo-r only has audible buzz if you turn the volume up quite a bit. Other than those I don't know if a fully shielded cable would add much of value in my case.
Great work Bob. A little thing I noticed: The yellow text in your thumbnails on some of the recent vids is a bit hard to read. Gets lost in the picture. Maybe add a slight black outer layer to the text?...Keep up the great work!
I've noticed that too when re-watching the videos on my TV. I think the color calibration on my (cheap, shitty) monitor is off.
Is there any difference in quality between just using csync directly from the console (with proper components), and getting sync from a sync stripper that takes composite video or luma?
I have cable from retro accessories but my super famicom has that checkerboarding on half the left screen or middle. I suspected it might be the generic power adapter i use, but upon watching this video it could be the cables as it looks similar. Or does noise from power supply look different.
Did You test the Monster Cable scart version?
I have one and it look great... I could not open them however....
heya there @RetroRGB is there a video that you can point me in the direction of for a clearer video showing the correct pinout for the snes scart cable? i am searching and having issues with finding a clear guide to fix these cheap cables.
i have a hard time seeing the specific lines i need to solder
Hey Bob I was wondering if I could get a component to bnc adapter so I can use good pvm cables and don't have to buy a scart to component adapter
Now, would a low pass filter clean up any noise left from a luma sync? I have all fully shielded cabling from retro game cables but they are all sync on luma cause that's how my consoles are modified
Tengo una snes PAL que no emite csync, he comprado un cable rgb barato chino y planeo convertir a sync on luma ¿para esta modificación hay que añadir alguna resistencia o el cable debe soldarse en luma directamente?
Hi, thank you for your great videos! One thing I have noticed and worries me is burn in on my LCD tv. Especially after playing shmups i have burn where the live bar is etc. it always disappears after a while but I don't know if it is dangerous in the long run. It is a Sony Bravia 52" tv
I hope that someone that knows will see this and answer. I'm modding my n64 with Voultar's RBG mod and it does Csync and sync stripping on the chip from what I understand. I know that the good shielded euro scart cable I get needs to be for Csync, but what is confusing me is the adapter cable from euro scart to xrbg for my framemeister. Does that need to also be the csync cable that has the sync stripper as well? or should I get the "passive" cable? I'm super confused and could use some help. Thanks!
How would monster scart cables compare to the ones other sellers build? They're pretty much the same price. Any info would help.
Hi 😃 Do you know how the PACKAPUNCH RGB SCART GameCube cable from retrogamingcables compares to the RGB SCART GameCube cable from consolegoods?
Is there a discernible difference?
Thanks 😝
Nice video! BTW, do you intend to talk about the Akura hdmi box for the Dreamcast?
I have a Dreamcast Pt 2 video in the works that talks about the Dreamcast. It's awhile off though.
What is the difference between regular shielding and multicore coax? Is regular shielding still okay and buzz free?
hi , thanks for the instructions and great video.
what resistor did you please add on the csync line?
thanks
330-450 ohm
75ohm
Great video! You might want to check out Loctite superglue Gel. Super accurate and you can easily lay down a tiny amount of glue exactly where you want it.
whether an unshielded or shielded cable is required depends on many factors.
The SNES, for example, is notorious for noisy signals and high levels of interference from the composite video and audio lines. Shielding is 100% required, and isolation between audio, sync, and RGB lines is required.
The PS1, however, outputs a very clean signal and you can get away with using lower quality cable on runs under 8 feet, depending on how "noisy" the area the cable is in. A simple ferrite core is usually sufficient to keep it clean.
Have you heard when Retrovision will have more cables in stock?
Do you know what wire to buy to make rgb cables
I am planning on doing this too, but what do you use to get the RGB Scart Connection to the HDMI...a converter?
This will be the better choice and it looks really nice!
Here's some devices: www.retrorgb.com/upscalers.html
...and here's a guide explaining why you'd need those: www.retrorgb.com/rgbguide.html
Hope that helps!
Awesome man!!! You know , Now I realized is that simple to add C -SYNC that I was wondering: It wouldnt be awesome adding switch at the cable to change the SYNC? (just imaging to change from composite to Csync or Luma, if that could be possible, according your needs) I actually own a SCART cable for multiconsoles (PS2, GC and XBOX) with a switch I never realized what is doing... I will check now. BTW there is not any way you show us how to mod an original SNES cable (with composite sync I suposse) to work with US consoles? and what about a JP21 original PS1 cable to workwith a PAL console
i have a extron 204 without the sdi i am currently recording via the saturn's s-video, which is pretty darn sharp for s-video, what scart to bnc would you recommend for capturing rgb ?
Any one that's fully-shielded. I'm 99.9% sure Rob's are: www.retrorgb.com/scarttodisplay.html
any tips on what i could do to improve 3dos svideo output? if you have seen my videos saturn comes out sharper and the 3do blurrier. i hear the "240 mod" for 3do works on svideo as well but i have not been able to test it for myself.
I want to know if the euro scart connector works with the NTSC scart cable? You don't have a NTSC cable for the framemister. Does it even make a difference if I just get all eruo on a ntsc tv?
The EuroSCART Framemeister cable will work with NTSC and PAL cables, just NOT JP21
Great video Bob! I am getting checkerboard patterns with official Nintendo PAL SCART cables. I think those use CSYNC. Should I change the sync to luma?
That should work. Personally, I'd sell the official cables and get a pack-a-punch from Rob. The official cables are expensive, so you'd probably break even. Just my opinion though.
Thank you! I thought those were shielded and top quality. Will sell them out and get those pack-a-punch from Rob. Thanks again!
Great video!
Now please do a review of the packapunch line of cables from retrogamingcables ☺
unrealdevon I'm pretty sure that's what he used in these videos
I actually used both Retrogamingcables.uk's "pack-a-punch" and Retro-Access' "coax" (both fully-shielded) in this review. Both are great.
RetroRGB you should do a comparison between the two but for some reason I get the feeling that'd cause some kind of drama. So many people have been whiny little bitches lately
Anyone tested or know how retrogamingcables fare against official brand scart cables, i.e. original Xbox, Wii, etc
Nice video :-) When I got my XRGB-mini from Solaris it included a Euro SCART adapter. Any idea if it's sheilded or if I should replace it with another one?
That's a short enough length that it might not matter. If you're not getting interference, you should be fine.
Thanks for the answer :-)
i asked to have my scart cables made with the audio separated from the console end so i can then run that to my stereo, so it never runs along the video signals let alone my xrgb mini. Because i am a weirdo...and audio buzz annoys the piss out of me
the worst thing about the buzz is you don't hear it in gameplay because it gets drowned out, then you hear it on pause or when starting it up and it's just ARRGRHGHRHHRHHHHHHH
Hey Bob, I have a question. I see Retro Access makes a SCART to XRGB Mini cable. Is this a better option than the Euro SCART XRGB adapter sold on Solaris Japan? Is it fully shielded? Or would it be worth the money to get one from Retro Access? I really don't want my last little piece of the RGB chain when using my Framemeister to cause interference if I'm spending the money to have everything upstream of it high quality.
They both should be good. If Retro Access has them in stock, I'd always prefer to purchase directly from the retro gaming community, but if they're out of stock the Micomsoft one should be just fine.
@@RetroRGB I'm not sure why I never got a notification that you replied to me! Thank you for your reply! I already have the Micomsoft one, but I just wanted to make sure it wouldn't be better to get the Retro Access one. Thanks again, Bob!
Edit: how did I just get to the screen where I actually found your replies and other comment replies? I found it by accident, and now I can't find it again.
I was looking forward to seeing that C-Sync modified $6 cable. Oh well. Great video as always.
Not much to see, video was crystal clear just like the 1st example and audio sounded exactly like the "bad" example.
what is resistor value for C-sync?
www.retrorgb.com/csync.html
Thanks, but is there a way to modify a cheap ass RGB-SCART cable for PAL SNES? I bought one and I have amazingly strong checkerboard patterns.
Same here and i am using the official Nintendo RGB Scart cable on a PAL 1 chip SNES. I too was hoping to see if the CSYNC mod removed the checkerboard effect.
The packapunch cables from retro gaming cables U.K. are the only full shielded. Right?
Those and the "coax" from retro-acess. Links to all are on my site.
You videos are awesome. I'm using an 25 inch Wells Gardner arcade monitor with my retropie setup. I would like to see a video of how you would create the best config and wiring. I not as techie as you. I've looked on RUclips for a clear and specific video on this but I can't seem to find it. Right now I use a htmi to vga adapter to a i-pac to the monitor rbg ground and I think (white wire) sync. I've made a few changes to the config.txt like hdmi_group=2
Hdmi_mode=87
Hdmi_cvt=740 240 60 1 0 0 0
I also don't quite understand all of the sync stuff. I think you could do a great video on this subject. I'm sure I'm not the only one. Thanks
Hi Bob, if my 1st cable RGB+sync(BNC) to scart female very high quality, and the console-scart male cable is worse, will I see noise and crackling sound?
Yup. Gotta make sure you're using decent cables all around.
@@RetroRGB thanks
Can you on the webpage by system list out the best cable in your opinion and where to get them. I am trying to Scart replace all my system cables from NES thru Gamecube
I already do that for every single console. Examples:
www.retrorgb.com/snescsync.html
www.retrorgb.com/genesisrgbcables.html
www.retrorgb.com/playstation.html
Just make sure you read each section for the relevant info, as NES & GC need more then just a cable.
RetroRGB some require modding. Not something i am capable of. But all my sega systems I'll be going full scart with my gscart. Waiting on a gcomp for others. NES, SNES, N64 I'll have to settle for stand cords as I'm unable to do the modding
well i guess i will buy the cheapest scart i can find and mod the cable with a high quality cable 😂 thanks for the video, very informative!
Will a PAL SNES fully shielded RGB cable have no audio buzz?
It's an analog cable it will still have buzzing it will at best reduce the buzzing and is less prominent at lower volume than cheaper cables
How good are the official Nintendo and Sony brand SCART and JP21 cables? Somewhere in the middle?
I've actually never used any of the official RGB cables. Too expensive and most are for PAL consoles.
I have an official SNES JP21 cable. I checked and it's using composite video for sync, but I haven't noticed any video or audio distortion, so I'm guessing it must have at least some shielding. That also explains how I'm able to use it with my unmodified 1CHIP-03
Very informative video! Thanks! I have a question. I have several C-sync cables from retrogamingcables.co.uk for my SNES, Genesis 2, and Master System that I ordered about 2 years ago. I opened them up and none of them have any resistors on the C-sync lines. I also measured resistance with a multimeter and got close to zero, so I'm pretty sure I didn't just miss them. I've never had any issues, but after watching this video and doing some googling, I'm worried that I could be slowly lowering the life expectancy of my equipment. I have my systems hooked up to a BVM monitor through a gscartsw. Should I look into adding the proper resistors to these cables or is it not that big of an issue? I would like to upgrade to fully shielded cables in the future, but don't quite have the funds to do that right now.
Yup, watch this: ruclips.net/video/Z3sE3uk5kPU/видео.html
Then reference this: www.retrorgb.com/csync.html
You won't damage a BVM or PVM by using improperly attenuated sync, but you might have quality issues. It only takes a few min to test, so I'd definitely do it.
Thanks for your help! I always find your videos full of useful information! I found the manual for my BVM and, your right, it looks like it has a pretty high tolerance for sync signals, so I'm not worried there. It'd probably be a good idea to add resistors to my cables anyway though to future proof them. Never know what else I may decide to hook my systems up to down the road.
I want to know the slandered rbg connector for the framemister does c-sync and support c-sync cable connected to it. your cables are better prob thou.
?
The standered ero scart connecter that came with the framemister. If connected to that with c-sync cable for a system, will it be still c-sync or work at all? Or does both the cables have to be c-sync.
As long as it's euro scart and not JP21, it will work with all forms of sync.
that's what i wanted to know. BTW when you getting your c-sync framemister cable the with with usb power. Is it actually worth it?
7:39 What would be different about the wires to make it fully shielded?
Each signal wire would have the ground wire wrapped around it, not run next to it. Just like you see in well-built analog audio cables, just inside the SCART cable.
How do you convert rgb scart to vga? To work on crt pc monitor?
ruclips.net/video/iLkN2AZLBMA/видео.html
how did the cheap one work with C sync do you have a comparison before and after?
I finally bought individually shielded pack-a-puch pro cables from retrogamingcables for all my system,, audio buzz and video distortion is GONE Yay!
Unfortunately I've spent more money on crap cables on ebay before buying proper cables from retrogamingcables. :(
The saying goes: We are not rich enough to buy cheap stuff over and over again... it's true.
James Freeman I am curious, how long did it take for your p-a-p cables to start shipping?
Almost two weeks, then another week+ for shipping.
They told me that they make them in batches, so they wait till there are enough orders only then the workshop starts working on a batch of PaP cables.
It was worth the wait anyway.
Cheers!
Shielded and thick cables are essential to avoid signal attenuations and interferences.
you don't have to pay $90 a cable (20-30 ones can be totally fine), but I strongly recommend avoiding the $5 china ones for gen/MD Model 1 and master system. I bought one that didn't fit right and I think I actually damaged the input socket a little trying to force them in.
Is the innovation cable for Dreamcast any good? IDK if it's any better because it's branded or it's just a china cable with a name
Who said anything about a $90 cable?!!?!?
@@RetroRGB a lot of times on ebay it seems like there's no mid-ground available, it's like you either have these $5 junk cables or all the way up to $90 or something, and people on the CRT collective were always pressuring me "you gotta the good shielded cables".
I went with the shit ones initially but I'm gonna upgrade to insurrection probably, IDK if they weren't around when I got said china cables or what.
@@gamerguy425if it's $90 it's most likely the official ones I have seen some official RGB SCART cables that are very expensive, so unless you're looking to collect things you're better off buying something like a Retro Gaming Cables SCART Cable than some random cheapo off eBay or Amazon
I like this video, but I would like to see the demos of what you're trying to emphasize improved a bit. Several of them, I didn't actually understand until I made a bunch of effort to find them, so maybe new people wouldn't grasp them at all without help.
For example, you repeatedly mention the checkerboard pattern on video, and show a screenshot onscreen along the side of the video, but the only checkerboarding I could see in there were the intentional checkerboard gradient pattern of the original SMW graphics. If you were trying to point out checkerboarding appearing on solid coloured background areas, maybe add some photoshop arrows or circled regions to emphasize they were what was being emphasized, maybe with an additional later zoom in for emphasis.
For the audio test where we are supposed to hear the buzz, nothing noticeably different between the two was audible here until I cranked my speakers to near the max -- then there was an audible difference between the two samples. Maybe also showing an oscilloscope both times in the corner of the screen, to both audibly AND visibly demonstrate the noise would help. Some of both of these being presented may just be related to how youtube compresses the audio or video for web playback -- maybe your originals had them more obvious.
I like your explanations of the shielded cables, but it would really help if you could cut and strip the shielded strands to show the shielding inside each coloured wire that make up the larger bundle. I totally get why you didn't do it to your own personal cables -- but for this demo it would add a lot to see what lies inside those rubbery-looking outer insulating layers. Maybe the cable vendors would send you rough lengths if you asked, so that you could demonstrate on video how the wires are shielded in the quality cables by cutting and stripping. Without this, it's just your explanation alongside roughly equivalent looking wires when seen from the outside.
Keep up the great work!
I actually agree with most of what you said. Please note:
- I should have done side-by-side picture comparisons too. I'll include that in the zip. It's pretty obvious when you see it like that.
- Speakers have 100% to do with what you hear: My crappy laptop speakers demonstrated the noise fine. My desktop speakers didn't play it at all. My headphones picked up noise (noise floor) in both, but the unshieled was unbearable.
- I'm not cutting a $40 cable. All of my piles of 'internet money' don't allow that in the budget ;p I probably could have asked the two main RGB SCART cable sellers & Rectalvision to send me a free sample to destroy, but I NEVER ask for free shit and I also don't want to play favorites; For me to do even a halfway decent job, I need to stay neutral, regardless if I consider them friends or not. Also, it's not about THEIR cables, it's about ANY shielded cable. Showing a retro-access cable cut up means nothing against a cable from someone else.
I'm not trying to "pick on" your response, just clarifying.
The audio buzz and checkboarding were glaringly obvious to me and I thought the shot of the shielded wires was pretty clear. Not trying to invalidate your opinion; just giving mine.
That's fine -- except I (and who knows who else) doesn't have your monitor or speakers -- we have our existing ones. If an instructional video was meant to demonstrate something, and doesn't to a portion of the audience (thanks to varying specs for gear on the market that view the same videos), then it's probably worth fixing it. I also think it's even just worth pointing out -- you wouldn't have pointed it out lacking, because you didn't experience them missing, and Bob didn't edit it that way to be intentionally vague. I flag this stuff sometimes when I see it, if it seems absent on my setup (and my setup isn't especially low end or weird), and I think it's important enough to be present in the video to demonstrate the point. No big deal.
Just throwing stuff out there. I don't expect some perfect standard of videos, and I know you don't spend years per video on minutia either. I know you care, so that's why I even bother trying to give feedback you could possibly do something with.
Destroying a working retro cable isn't necessary -- maybe a local recyclers has bales of cable samples you could snag for pennies and do a stripping on. It's always easy to figure people know what's inside, until you show it and they get awed at what is actually inside. Your explained it word-wise in the video -- I was just suggesting the visual to go with it. It doesn't help the public either that most of the marketing about shielding on mainstream storebought cabling is about the external overall layer, as opposed to each of the individually shielded component wires inside. I will keep my eyes open for some and send it along if you'd like.
I watched on a shitty TN 1366x768 laptop screen.
for snes pal I must buy a csync or sync on luma?
sync-on-luma, or a well-shielded sync-on-composite
@@RetroRGB thanks a lot for this answer and for all video you make
When can I get Saturn good cable please Scart
I have links on the top of this page: www.retrorgb.com/saturn.html
IMHO on a CRT anything above a 15€ sync-on-luma is diminishing returns. I buy from retrogamingcables.
I can vouch for the $6 cable being pretty crappy lol. I don't feel like building my own cables quite yet so I got a Genesis SCART cable off of Amazon. Surprisingly, the video looks pretty good through the OSSC but the audio buzz is ROUGH. My plan is to build my own switch out of a VGA switch (forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/176031/my-analog-a-v-setup-240p-goodness) and my own cables so I'll deal for now.
Yeah my cheap Genesis cable has the worst audio buzz of all my cheap cables.
Love the creepy thumbnail bob. Very seasonal. Mwahahaha. Click bait is your friend
Picked up a second hand Monster (brand) SCART cable at the weekend, anyone know if they are any good without me taking it apart?
But you're talking composed sync .. not sync-on-composite yes ?
I talk about both. Maybe re-watch the video?
The way to fix the audio buzz on those cheap cables is to remove the audio lines from the SNES connector end and attach two stripped audio cables.
I think you mean attach two shielded RCA audio connectors to the SNES end and have them run out the back of the connector. Correct, that works well...but then you have to deal with audio on the receiving end. For some people, this is a non-issue. For others, it's way easier to just buy good cables to start.
I'd always recommend buying good cables from the start too. I'm saying if you already have those cheap cables, this is a way you can get rid of the buzz. A lot of people also have a spare couple of RCA cables around.
Money is rarely the issue at stake. The real problem in the retro gaming circles is availability. I think people are willing to pay for the best, it's just no one can get their hands on the product once they have the money.
Got a (modded-NES), SNES, (modded-N64) and Genesis. Can you recommend a box that can handle the RGB SCART from these consoles and convert them to component without too much loss in quality? Originally I was going to try the SNES Retrovision cable, but my setup has all consoles in cubbies and having to share the cables between these consoles would prove cumbersome... (I would only buy 1 retrovision cable), but a better alternative would be to just buy the right SCART RGB cables for each system, plug them into a converter box (one that handles up to 4 devices? 3 might even be ok), and just have it go to the TV via component.
Also should I be worried about which RGB SCART cable I buy for each? Buy Euro Scart or Japanese Scart or custom Scart for US on ebay? I do want to convert RGB to Component after all, not buy a SCART that just does composite video. USA TV with Component here...
Definitely get all the "recommended" cables for each console on this page: www.retrorgb.com/systems.html
At the moment, the best RGB to Component converter for retro gaming is the one from RetroTINK - The "RGB2Comp". It should be back in stock soon: www.retrotink.com/product-page/rgb2comp
Only issue is that i don't think 6$ and 30$ are just "a few extra dollars" apart
you can also buy the 6 dollar one and replace the wire for another 6 dollar
Also, don't get boosted cables. Those can straight up harm your devices. If they are boosted, take it apart and unboost it.
Where can I find someone explaining how to make a component 3x rca video for the Genesis 1? Or buy one that isn't 40 or 50 dollars
I red that people complain from lag on crt with csync
lol, that’s not a thing. I promise you. Please check out my other videos for proof I know what I’m talking about.
@@RetroRGB im glad to hear that
some $6 cables are terrible, others are good. hard to tell before buying
Recommend people check out thefoo.83 on ebay. He sells good cables with good shielding from what I have heard.
All that work and hassle. Just spend $10 more and get what you actually want/need..
Your storage boxes (and wife) will thank you too.