Me as a kid: "Just plug the yellow and white cables into the TV and the other wire for the wall" Me as an adult: "Gotta make sure my house is grounded before using my consoles"
one benefit i have of living in the uk, i guess! the "ring" system has its oddities... but at least every house is properly grounded. (thankfully nowadays multi-voltage power adapters are a thing, and i can use 60hz consoles on most every display just fine.)
SuperSaiyanPikmin Honestly things were often easier where I live in the UK. Just plug the SCART/RF cable into the TV, and put the plug into the wall. And if you were using SCART, it’d get some of the best picture available.
@@justanotheryoutubechannel As long as the scart lead actually had RGB connected. Most of the ones that came packed in with consoles just had composite video, it wasn't until recently that RGB scart leads for consoles became more widely available.
Or reversed digital foundry. Meaning digital foundry mostly talks about modern games and rarely talks about retro games. MyLifeinGaming is the exact opposite
@@danielhenderson762 Simple, there are still a few consoles that do not offer RGB, mod or otherwise. Additionally, RGB interest is not universal, some people like to play via composite on older monitors, or RF on even older TV sets. Nostalgia, authenticity, it doesn't matter, it's just a matter of preference. If you have a lot of consoles like that, then a switch is useful. RGB is awesome, but you can still have fun with composite and a CRT. I grew up with RF from the 2600 all the way to the N64, and it was fine for the most part.
Your channel is one of the highest quality channels I have ever seen. I've learned a whole lot from your videos, and this channel is my number one source for retro gaming information. Keep up the great work!
@Matthew Leisure Retro gaming is a niche market by itself, this makes retro gaming with upscalers and professional monitors even more of a niche market. I think that they'll finish 2017 with at lease 65k subs.
@John Locke I don't recall him ever trashing any game genre, at lease not in the same way that Zero Ponctuations (the so-called game critic) would. Can you name any specific episode so that I can listen for myself? As for the way he speaks, that's more like your personal opinion than a general annoyance. I personally find it annoying when I get to some RUclips channel and the guy there only speaks like he was raised in the hoods or something, but that's just me, I like to hear proper English words.
Gameplay and Talk you know how great and clean Try's setup is? Every RGB episode makes it a huge mess. he's posted a pic or two on Twitter of how awful it gets.
Didn't even know I was doubling my low pass filter using the GSCARTSW and OSSC... Disabled it in the OSSC settings and yes, it's noticeably better now. Awesome stuff!
I've got a 16x8 Extron crosspoint. I made an array of 16 SCART to BNC converters to use it. It was a lot of work, but sooooo worth it. The whole set up only cost me about £80. I love it :)
Good job man, wish I was handy with soldering wires. As it stands I just spent $200+ on SCART to BNC cables to hook up all my RGB systems to the Extron Crosspoint. =(
I don't want to be that one guy who claims something really hard is super easy, but learning to use a soldering iron isn't as difficult as you'd imagine. Just takes practice.
Holy balls thanks for this. Just ordered the Extron 84HVA and the Impact Acoustics. The Extron will go great in my server rack. just waiting on the Audio cables to come back in stock, though it looks like they might be easy to wire myself.
Thank you for all the time you guys invest in these videos. I have such a mess of cables I have to deal with any time I connect a console. I've been holding off on buying the switchers I need for years because I didn't want to be a guinea pig testing junk. I will be changing my set up now that there is solid information by people I trust to go on.
You guys provide some outstanding content that is meaningful and informative while maintaining zero clutter in communication. Seriously, you guys are amazing.
I ordered a gscartsw 5.1 in October 2018. Last week it arrived in germany. Sadly the customs authorities decline the import. Working with superg to get this issue solved.
the new Gcomp switch is DA BOMMMMMMB. 8+2 and dead simple to use. one goes to my 36' CRT and the other goes to my OSSC, which gets split to my OLED and capture card, couldn't be happier and if I really get desperate there's a solid $15 mechanical switcher that Matt from HDRetrovision recommends that can add 3 more inputs if I don't mind pressing a button every now and again.
FYI on the 5 input Bandridge Automatic, it doesn't carry quite enough power for a sync stripper possibly if you have a cable with one in it. Funnily enough the Manual one doesn't have this limitation. I was pulling my hair out until I found that. So I went back the Bandridge manual and love it.
I always think 'Ahhhh My Life In Gaming, I'll watch 5minutes to get an overview of the episode' *30minutes later* 'Good episode...' It pains me to see how expensive RGB scart based stuff is in the States. I've been tempted for a while to put together low cost bundles for people overseas. Even 'cheap' (or affordable) mechanical switchers in the UK are pretty decent since they mostly just act as a pass-through. Automatic switching is nice but for the sake of pushing a button and not worrying about power leaks etc. I'd go mechanical.
have you found good switchers in the UK? i'm there, but haven't been able to find any SCART equipment for about 5 years. the last time i saw any, i was thinking to myself, "pfft, i've already moved over to HDMI!"... whoops!
Argos and Maplins still have bits in/easiest to source from. Rarely had a problem with anything from either of them. Had to set up some old scart freeview boxes/DVD players in some rooms in a care-home I work at with LCD TV's that still had the scart inputs and they worked great. I have a scart swticher going to a scart to hdmi converter (both maplins) and they work flawlessly together. :)
Samcubegamer nice! thank you! i remember trying to get a specific kind of audio cable from there once, the first time i'd been, and no one knew what any of it was, and they didn't have it, so i sort of.... mentally wrote it off as not very useful, haha
thankyou! the awful (unpowered, "auto switching", image ghosting) scart switcher i had back circa 2005 was from argos, though i didn't know they still sold any.
Bought the Hama version since it was recommended on a retrogaming-and-RGB site because it didn't add any noise and... found out it buzzes like hell, especially when light colours are shown on screen, and just had to throw it away.
+Erik Pede Did you try any cables with better conductors and shielding, something like the professional multicore coaxial cable upgrade seen from 3:27? An upgraded cable from the switcher output to your display or upscaler might have helped, for example.
I’ve started using a Bandridge SVB7725 in my setup, but I’ve noticed some weirdness. The 5th input doesn’t work with my RGB SCART cables, (at all!) but judging by the AV5/VCR text, I’d guess that like my Trinitron’s second SCART input, it cannot accept RGB and instead uses S-Video and Composite. The real weird thing is though, I’m not having any of the voltage leakage issues and consoles not working on all inputs. Aside from AV5, where none of my RGB consoles work, (I’ll probably use it for a composite NES until I can mod one, or my VCR.) everything else works on all inputs. The picture is brilliant, no loss is noticeable on my CRT. However, my Mega Drive has as issue, vertically rolling noise bars that look similar to a rewinding or fast-forwarding VCR, except far less intense. They are barely noticeable with Sonic running around Green Hill, my main noise test, but they are noticeable on the tile screen and any dark screens. I don’t know what is causing it, but I do know that my Mega Drive is the only console I own that isn’t using an original AC adaptor, because the original one went missing last year only to turn up in a box that hadn’t been opened for about 10 years, (I blame my house’s ghost, as that box had been buried under 5 other boxes on top of a cupboard no one else in my family can reach, and had been up there for at least a decade when I took it down to look for stuff and found the cable) but now that I know where the original plug is I’m going to try it with a stock adaptor rather than the 3rd party one I have now.
Have you tried connecting the BNC switchers directly to a HDTV via component? These BNC switchers sound like a very limited featured but a cheap way to get RGB on your TV compared to the framemeister. From what I'm hearing at least, this sounds like a switcher where i can connect all my component devices via 75ohm terminators and connect my scart switcher here as well since i got scart to BNC and thus connect it to the PVM and the HDTV. Let me know if this is a viable option.
+Bing Talks [Try4ce] Well, they just pass the signals that you put into them. If you put in component (YPbPr) then it outputs the same. It does not convert to or from RGB. You can use RGB and YPbPr on the same Extron with the same cables, but the TV would have to be capable of accepting both signals over the right inputs.
Mainly for consoles that can access 480p, though sometimes RGB looks better due to white balance... In other words the advantages and disavantages vary console to console.
Don't know if anyone's mentioned it in the comments yet, but I've been using Tim Worthington's SCARTMUX SCART switcher for the last little while and have been loving it. 4 in, 2 out, automatic switching, has toggleable sync stripping if you need it, and I'm even able to get the USB port on my TV to power it (a simple phone charger block with a mini-USB cable will work fine too, or plugging into your Framemeister if you use that)! Uses an 8-pin DIN port for output, so you'll have to buy a cable appropriate for your setup (which Tim sells as well) - you can use the 8-pin DIN to SCART cable from the NESRGB kit on Tim Worthington's website (which, even for a soldering novice like me, was doable) and has audio broken out of the video signal (best to integrate it with your setup, I plug the 3.5mm audio cable directly into the audio in on my OSSC), but those are minor quirks. As well, maybe only having 4 inputs will be a dealbreaker for some, but it was fine for me. I haven't been able to get sync-on-green working for PS2 480p as of yet over SCART (don't know if any other SCARTMUX users have?) but I've been more than happy to just play with the 4x 480i mode from the OSSC. Anyways, great video guys! This entire masterclass series helped me plan out and get my retro gaming setup in top shape - thank you so much! :)
I have several cheap SCART switches that cost me basically nothing. I use them with a CRT and I have yet to notice any degradation. I live in Europe so my CRT has full RGB support. I also tested some automatic SCART switches - cheap ones and they are really bad. It's not so hard to find some amazing cables for retro console here at flea markets, so I didn't have to spend loads of cash just to get better image out of my consoles.
Just a necro post note about the extron crosspoint: It only accepts CSYNC. Sync on Green or Luma consoles such as the Playstation must be equipped with a sync stripper for the signal to be compatible. Despite this limit on the sync, this unit is compatible with various RGBs Standards including HV and component. Another small thing to note about extron crosspoints is that it has been reported that they output to a 510 ohm csync standard; higher than 75 Ohm sync on scart which could damage your OSSC from the extra voltage. The dip switches on the back are for input only and will not alter the output to a 75 ohm specification. A fix for this is to put a 470 ohm resistor into the CSYNC line on your BNC to Scart passive converter (on the scart end) to lower that standard to within the 75 ohm specification on CSYNC. Since there isn't a good method to exchange the BNC connection output by the Extron crosspoint to component for the OSSC, you do need a BNC to Scart passive adapter to plug into a shielded male-male scart lead into the OSSC to prevent a loss in image quality. In special cases such as the Playstation, the direct BNC options do not come built in with a sync stripper and thus the Scart version must be purchased along with a sync stripper equipped version of the Scart to BNC passive adapter found at retrogamingcables for a bit more money than the direct option. A different avenue of approach for this is to add a sync stripper into the Scart console cable with a bit of soldering and use a standard Scart to BNC passive adapter for slightly less money. Now a note about the Extron's relative cost to the cables. BNC cables direct from the console can be had for about 54 US dollars each, can be customized in length to fit extron crosspoints that have more inputs (and are larger) and can be fitted with phoenix connectors instead of RCA audio for no extra cost to you. If you think that is expensive, the Scart switchers that are available in limited batches (the generic ones are rare these days) are about the equivalent cost of 3-4 of these BNC cables alone (gscart is 220 + 17 USD while hydra is slightly cheaper with only one output - 160 USD). True, the console Scart cables are less expensive overall, but when you put the cost of the switcher into the mix it really adds up. In a modest setup with only three inputs the Scart based solution is up to 150 dollars more expensive than the BNC option. Just throwing it out there for those who do not want to break the bank using RGB.
Good lord this video is nuts. Wish I saw this two years ago the new gccomp coming out is 220 bucks which is a bit much. I wish he still had the 4 input one avalible.
oh man, for real? electronics stores in the UK stopped selling SCART cables and switchers like 5 or so years ago, best as i can tell. (i've obviously not been in, like, every one of them or anything.) back in the day the cheap passive (not even button-selector) SCART switch i bought bled the image through from all the sources, and the powered switchers were like 5x the cost. so i just manually changed my plugs around, since i would have rather had another game than the extra convenience. but now, i somewhat regret it, because it's so difficult to find them! i do remember hama being a good name though. maybe i should look on some online stores situated in mainland europe.... better act fast too, since there'll be customs fees from europe before long ._.
The HAMA switch is very nice. I used one of those before as well. I recently switched to a 6 port scart switch from otaku-games.com and love it. It was less then 50 bucks including shipping.
I also have one of their 6 port switches and love that i don't need the Scart to BNC adapter cable for using it with my PVM. Another $30 saved just by that.
I absolutely love EVERYTHING on your channel, guys! The intros, the themes, the background, the sound clarity, the summary, the scripting, the information. CONGRATULATIONS! By the way, there are a small amount of videos I can afford to watch in 1x speed, most of them I must speed up, sometimes to 2x because it's a looooooong road until you hear what matters and to clutch up all the information scattered in 10 minutes of blabbering and wannabefunny speech!
I'm glad that I have finished my setup when I see you do vids like this. The gscartsw was tricky enough to get when not as many people knew about them :) Great vid though
I honestly love this channel. I was in a state of panic after adopting cysnc and realizing after that my bandridges weren't compatible. This answered all of my questions on how to create a new setup to accommodate differences in my setup.
Oh my god! Why are they so expensive!? I don’t get it! Screw this, I’m just gonna manually switch my SCART cables out... And I live in the UK where bloody everyone used SCART, they were practically standard back in the day! *EDIT:* Christ, Switchboxes seem to have so many issues that it’s probably just easier to switch cables out by hand. Like, how am I supposed to know if my house is grounded or not? It was built 70 years ago by the government, I don’t know if that’s bad or not! Nor do I know anything about the quality of my power! Why does power even have quality!? And switchers cause a quality drop off? Why!? You’d think someone would make a proper noise-free lossless switcher, at least out here in the UK where SCART was a big thing, but sadly no. *EDIT EDIT:* Just brought a Bandridge SVB7725. Looking forward to when it arrives.
I got myself a Bandridge SVB7725 off eBay earlier this year. It’s a great device, and I’ve had literally no issues. None. I didn’t even have to mod mine! Annoyingly, it’s AV5/VCR port doesn’t support RGB, but even if it did I’d still be 2 inputs short. Originally, the Bandridge supported exactly the amount of inputs I needed, but my setup has grown since then. It was real cheap too, there is (or at least was) a guy selling loads of them on eBay for £25 quid. My setup consists of each device, a SNES, a Mega Drive, a PS2, a Wii, a DVD player, a PVR/Set-top box, a VCR, and an original PS1, hooked up via RGB SCART cable from Retro Gaming Cables UK, (except for the VCR, which is using a well-insulated SCART cable using gold-coated connections, and the PVR/DVD player, as they use a special cable I’ll describe later.) plugged into the Bandridge. Not everything fits, however, I have too many SCARTs. So the PS1 is almost never hooked up, I rarely use the DVD player, instead using the PVR’s USB input to watch video files, so the DVD player is unplugged but I can switch the two out if I need to watch a disc, and I switch the SNES and Mega Drive when I want to play the other one. After the Bandridge, the video is outputted using a completely insane SCART cable my father gave me. His friend brought them back in the 1990’s, and used them for everything, saying they made his video sources look way better, so my dad brought some for himself, and used them to hook up him VCR. As, unsurprisingly, they didn’t look any better, he threw them in the loft and gave them to me this year when I asked him if he had any spare SCARTs. Apparently, he spent £100 pounds PER CABLE, and he brought two of them. That’s 200 POUNDS! Of course, there’s a reason why they are so expensive. Both cables are built out of gold. Literally. The bits you hold as you insert them are super-heavy-duty steel, and the cables both within the wire and the plugs that go into the input socket are super heavily insulated and made out of gold. It’s not even coated, it’s just GOLD. So all my video output goes though one of these solid gold cables into my Sony Trinitron KV-21X5U 15khz CRT, and it looks stunning. The PVR/DVD Player use the other cable, as dad gave them both to me, and I keep one input in the Bandridge at all times, and I switch the other end between the two devices. Overall, I’m super happy with the setup. I’m going to add another Bandridge someday, and daisy-chain them. I’ll probably use the PVR/DVD Player’s £100 SCART to connect the two switchers, and I’ll grab another gold-plated cable like I use for the VCR to use with the PVR/DVD Player. I’m not exactly sure where I’d put the Bandridge though, as with my current Bandridge I can barely fit all the cables in, and I’m actually using the VCR to weigh down the Bandridge’s little foot-thing, otherwise the overpriced golden SCARTs will pull it over. (They are proper heavy, drop one on your foot and it might break it from enough height.) Oh, and Hydra is totally the perfect name for a SCART switcher, my Bandridge looks like a SCART-Hydra hybrid even though it only has 6 cables in it.
I am so getting one of those monstrous Extron Matrix Switchers with 32 inputs and 32 outputs. I don’t even need one, but I want one as it’s just beautiful. IT’S MASSIVE AND COMPLETELY MAD!
5:20 I own two of those Packapunch cables, one two daisy chain my two Bandridge switches together and one to output my main Bandridge to my SCART amplifier with twenty outputs (no really!), and I can confirm that Packapunch effectively eliminates audio buzz and provides a clean video signal every time. :)
I also own 3 packapunch cables for the ps2, wii and japanese super nintendo. I heard something about issues with this switch in combination with csync. Is this true because after reading your comment I really would like a Brandridge switcher with no audio buzz. Thank you.
Great episode as always guys. Speaking of Pelican switchers, they actually made an 8 input one for S-Video, Composites and Components. It's electronic, so there's an AC for it, but it works great, I was using it before when I had a CRT. One final note regarding SCART switchers when going the 2160p (4K) UHD route. I bought those cheap 5 ways black SCART switchers on ebay when I got my XRGB-Mini. I had no issues with them on my regular HD Samsung TV, but when I moves to my new UHD Samsung TV this week, any issues that were not noticeable at a 3x upscaling to 720p are now VERY noticeable at a 9x upscaling of 2160p. I was seeing a bunch of noise in the background, reminded me of interference on an old CRT (snow effect). When I hooked my consoles straight to the XRGB-Mini, the issue was gone. In a way, your episode came out just in time for me :)
22:11 I have a question about those SCART to BNC adapters. I see that you are feeding your RGBs signal into the Extron via SCART to BNC and then into the Framemeister via a second SCART to BNC. I don't have an Extron, but I do have an Atlona splitter box that accepts YPbPr, RGBHV or RGBS via separate RCA plugs. My question is, what if you are feeding both RGB and composite video into your SCART switcher and want to feed the signal to a splitter box that supports RGBS via separate RCA inputs? Can composite video be carried through those SCART to BNC adapter? Maybe through the sync plug when RGB is not in use? I'm using the unpowered Bandridge switcher and the generic SCART to HDMI for anything that supports RGB or composite. It works fine, but there are some Sega light gun games that I'd like to output to my CRT. My CRT only supports composite, so obviously I need an RGB to composite transcoder. But I'm looking for a way to split the signal so I can send RGB and Composite to my SCART to HDMI and my CRT simultaneously. I'm wondering if I should try using SCART to BNC since I already have an Atlona splitter box that accepts RGBS through RCA, or if I should invest in a dedicated SCART amplifier if those BNC adapters don't handle composite?
Thanks for another great video! I'm glad you finally got to talk about the quality of the cables, since yeah... today we have digital cables and everything is fine, but analogue stuff is a completely different story.
I finally found a Bandridge SVB7725 and couldn't wait to try it out. Before commencing with the small mod you mentioned, I quickly tried it out and no detail was lost or noise was added. However, the colours had changed and became a bit over-saturated and murky. I wasn't sure if the mod you mentioned would fix it but I gave it a go. Alas, the incorrect colour persists. Regardless of what console or scart input I use. And I also use packapunch cables so I know my cables are decent. I've gone back to my 3-scart selector because even though there are less inputs, at least it's entirely accurate. I'm a bit gutted that my Bandridge didn't turn out how I imagined it and I will be selling it.
Hey, My Life in Gaming I can say that the active component switch from monoprice is really good. It supports up to 4 component video inputs at once and has an 'IR learning' remote though it takes a bit to get it to learn.
I have an 8x8 component matrix switcher that I love. That mixed with my 2 gscart switchers and a framemeister, makes it really easy to simultaneously output all of my consoles to my hdtv and my CRT. As soon as I get a PVM, I'll be able to add that to one of my component outputs without any problems. All of my cables are a mess behind my TVs though, and there is no way I could explain how to turn anything on to someone else haha. It works for me though.
I came up with a set-up that worked for me. I started with an Extron Crosspoint 300 Series 168 HV, so I had sixteen inputs and sixteen outputs. However, they were just R, G, B, H, and V. There were no Phoenix connectors or any other setup for audio. Now, I use YPbPr component, which only uses three connectors for video, so I thought I could just use the H and V for makeshift audio. However, that was no good. The box did some sort of automatic adjustment to the H an V lines, presumably to clean up sync, which ruined the audio signal. I never figured out a way to turn it off. For awhile, I thought I would be stuck chaining audio switchboxes together, as I had thirteen positions filled on the Extron, and it is hard to find an audio switch to cope with that. I have no amp, so I had to funnel audio into at most two outputs for my big TV and PVM. Then I found a switchbox by Distribution Technology. I think it was for security cameras, as it had a BNC port for composite video and RCA for left and right audio. It had fifteen inputs and one output, so it solved my audio problem.
1:39-1:50 Is composite video also sensitive to unclean power? All my RGB and composite consoles are plugged into my Bandridge switcher, which then outputs to my generic SCART to HDMI. The only system I can't get to work with this setup is my PC Engine Duo. It downright refuses to cooperate with any AV switcher I plug it into. Whenever I feed it into a switcher, there is very noticeable noise in the video. Lines and snow. It almost looks like I'm outputting it through RF! The only way to get a clean picture is to plug it into a second SCART to HDMI with a SCART to AV adapter. I'm not using the official PSU though, I'm using a generic 100-240V PSU. Could the PSU be at fault? Should I get an official PSU and step down transformer?
I've been using the joytech control centre 540c for years now, and have been really happy with it. It's a powered 6 in 1 out switch with IR remote control, and does component, composite, and svideo with spdif, and has a dedicated port for Xbox 360 cable. It has a built in 6 port eithernet hub too, which is really handy for more modern consoles. It's styled to look a lot like a 1st gen Xbox 360 and has a backlit lcd display with adjustable brightness level, which shows the name of the currently selected input (you can reprogram the names for each input yourself too). I actually have 2 of them in my setup, one dedicated to Y Pb Pr and the other dedicated to composite, and I've never found anything else on the market that even comes close to them in terms of functions, looks and usability. I would highly recommend this device to any retrogamer! (I always thought it was a bit odd that nobody else in the scene ever seems to mention this thing, as it's so good)
been considering buying a Hydra scart switch what do I need to do to make it work with my framemeister ? how do I strip the sync is there a cable I can purchase ? I am alittle confused to what must be done to make the Hydra work with csync and luma over to the framemeister. can I please get some insight ?
Glad to know component switchers are so simple and cheap. If I get some of those component cords for the SNES and Genesis to go with my Wii/PS2 component cord, and a single adapter for a scaler, that'd be a lot of my needs covered. Not all of them, but enough that I could stand to just change SCART cables on a case by case basis.
My gscartsw has been sitting dormant but is about to get some use as soon as I get my N64 modded for RGB, since I'll have all of Nintendo's first 3 consoles RGB ready at that point. Gonna use it to send signal to both the PVM and Framemeister, it's going to be amazing.
I'm no A/V pro but isn't the Bandridge a shade or something off from direct, at 7:02 for example? The brown of the orb, his flesh, the grey spot below the sunglasses, just seems off
On opening the Bandrige switch.....gouge small holes in the screw covers with a small screwdriver or drill (it's easy, it's quite soft plastic) then screw a small screw into the hole and pull the cover out with some pliers griping the screw, very easy and no horrible scratches created
I found a Pelican System Selector Pro PL-960 yesterday, $60. It's an active power 8-input, 1-output. It allows Composite, S-Video, Component, TosLink & 2 RCA stereo audio out. It's a worth while buy if you find one. It was sold at Gamestop back in the day so its consumer grade and fits into your A/V shelf better than something like the Extron will. Word of warning I actually broke mine while testing all the ports. One of the RCA jacks was not installed flush with the PCB so all the load of plugging/unplugging was carried by the solder joint itself. Which of course ripped free from the PCB. I was able to fix it, the contact pad area for the jacks is thankfully very large so I was able to scrape away a new contact point, re-solder and then hot glued it down for safety. So I guess what I'm saying is give all the jacks a wiggle test before you start plugging in to them. If they move that means they are on their way to breaking eventually. In terms of image quality it seems okay to me. Just going into a 14" Toshiba consumer CRT. It doesn't appear to be any different from plugging straight into the TV itself. You can tell what era its from as its labels are; PS2, Gamecube, Xbox. Also since it happened to me don't use those Monster cables with the tight connector grip (the spiral look). Definitely what contributed to me breaking the jack. They are simply way, way to tight. Like trying to free a vice grip.
I really appreciated this video, guys. This answered a lot of questions I had and was extremely helpful. Already a subscriber, but this is what I watch for. Thank you.
Thank you for recommending the xtron, I was planning to mostly do component and wanted a switcher that could also be an active splitter for recording GameCube without being too much resistance on the output and shortening the consoles life span. Having the option to run old console directly or throw up scalers on my monitor while streaming or recording upscaled signal sounds worth the extra hassle.
This is so fascinating. I imagine your chain would probably go something like this: Console->gscartsw->OSSC->Denon Receiver->LG OLED, assuming you want to use a 4k TV instead of a CRT.
I got myself a Bandridge SVB7735 (Powered) RGB Scart switcher based on the recommendations of this video and it is fantastic bit of kit. The image is clean, the ports don't interfere with each other and the build quality is excellent for the money! I'm not sure what the availability is like in the States but there seems to be plenty available here in UK/Europe anyway.
22:30 So is it really just as easy as plugging YPbPr component cables (with BNC adapter) into the RGB of an extron switcher? Like if I were to use the Genesis HD Retrovision cables in an extron using bnc adapters, can I forget about the HV sync and just have the output go to my PVM?
I've been using the mechanical bandridge switcher for about 12 months now. Once you cut that trace it's a really good switcher for the money. The cost cost of getting a gscart shipped to my country is a bit too much to swallow, so it's a good alternative.
I am currently waiting for my 8:2 component gcomp switch and that’ll go nicely with my set up on the analog side for my CRT. Once I'm done with that, I'll start thinking about what to do about sending dual signals to the CRT and the HDTV.
I actually find it weird that you guys had trouble hooking things up to the Extron units without a sync stripper in line. I have an Extron Crosspoint 12x8 (12 inputs, 8 outputs) with 8 systems hooked up to it, 4 of which use RGB, and sync has never been a problem. That being said, Extron units seem to have been built to order. I've opened up 3 units with the exact same configuration (all 12x8) and series number, but each one had completely different components (which means I couldn't harvest parts for my original 12x8, oh well). **EDIT** I also figured I'd mention that the other benefit to the Extron Crosspoint Switcher, besides being able to accept almost every type of input you can think of, is that you can use a JP-21 RGB cable as an input and a Euro SCART as an output or vice versa by simply swapping the red, green and blue cables around till they form a true color picture. What this means is that you can use Euro SCART cables on your Extron Switcher and the breakout, JP-21 cable that comes with the XRGB Framemeister without buying a new breakout cable.
10:39-11:05 I have an Extron video processor with 15-pin D-SUB input that ostensibly takes RGBHV and RGBs signal, and outputs either to RGBHV. This unit is capable of line-doubling for 240p from composite or component inputs and outputting to VGA, so I'm confident it can do the same for D-SUB. I also have BNC to D-SUB cable, made for RGBHV. My question is, if I'm using a cable from wookiewin to connect a Genesis to this converter cable, and then to the Extron unit, which sync BNC cable should I be using? Or should I buy a different cable altogether?
[Try4ce] Can't quite wrap my head around it. But essentially all Genesis cables are fundamentally RGBS, though - CSYNC means sync has its own line... and sync-on-composite is also a line separate from RGB, thus RGBS.
[Try4ce] That I don't know. I do know however, that on that older gscart in particular (the current ones don't have the Dsub), the Dsub to 4-BNC that Monoprice sells works... but the 5-BNC version does not, even if you only use one of the sync lines, neither seems to have CSYNC. What's interesting about this is that the Nt mini and Analogue DAC use the same cables, but send CSYNC over some pin on the 5-BNC cable... you only use one of the cables, of course, but for whatever reason, the 4-BNC cable does not work. So all that to say, H sync, V sync, and C sync do not share the same pins on those devices, so I don't think, for example, you could couple them together and expect the signal to carry the whole way through. Not sure if that gives you any idea as to whether what you want to do will work, but that's my experience with the sync continuity on those cables, with those specific devices, at least.
I'm so tempted to invest in an Extron Crosspoint. I think my two qualms are needing power (I'm spoiled with mechanical) and buying/creating audio adapters. Would get great to throw all my analog YPbPr sources onto a single switch.
didn't know about that trace needing to be cut. i've had no issues, so never looked into it. is there a list of consoles with the voltage backfeed problem?
Nadia Clawson I think some Bandridge units are fine, I got one of the same model, and it works fine with no issues. Maybe it’s because I’m using PAL in the UK? My theory is that maybe Bandridge removed the trace from later units, and all the early ones have been sold, so anyone who buys them now gets a pre-fixed unit.
I would like to point out that, for the Pelican Component Switcher(and it's rebadged Gamestop branded equivalents) don't have any sort of shielding on them and if you're using one, you'll want to be a bit careful about where you place it in regards of other electronics. I've had interference introduced when (temporarily) placed on top of a PS3, and you'll want to have some sort of spacer if you want to place it on the top of a PVM, as I have seen interference added in this case as well.
So if I were to use an Extron for strictly component video only, would I be able to use the H/V connections to pass left and right audio through, or would I still have to use the phoenix connections? BTW great channel guys! Ever since I stumbled onto RGB 104, I've been hooked since. Easily my favorite channel on RUclips. Keep up the amazing work!
I just tried Connecting my L and R Audio to the H and V Inputs of my crosspoint. It actually works but I had to increase the volume a lot. My PVM is still not loud enough. So I would not recommend this method.
Question for you. I just got my Hydra Mini in the mail today. I am using the following. 1. Japanese Sega Saturn 2. Scart cable from Retro Access PRO COAXIAL cable 3. SCART TO SCART CABLE - PRO COAXIAL MULTICORE FOR SWITCH BOXES from Retro Access 4. OSSC 5. 2017 LG OLED TV B7 6. I am using the specification for the PSU at 12v DC 1500ma. I am getting some audio humming coming from the TV. I am wondering why I am getting the humming sound?
I got the same Monoprice component switcher three years ago. I noticed that it suddenly has interference. How do I fix it? Anything I can do to shield it?
Did you change something in your setup? Maybe different cables next to the switcher is affecting it or/and the cables you're using aren't adequately shielded?
Dumb question incoming. I have both a pvm (can't do 480p) and a framemeister to my lcd. I'm going to get the gscartsw lite since it is automatic and can output to both tvs. I actually have 10 scart sources, 1 svideo, and two component. I just picked up the bandridge 5 port switch for my scart2pi, ps1, and ps2. However, my gamecube is only sporting s-video. If I use the s-video input on the bandridge does that make it a rgb like signal over scart that my framemeister will understand as well as my pvm via rgb breakout cables? I bet it is only a feature european tvs can take advantage of but if my s-video can also be ran as automatic I won't complain. I have a cheap s-video switch I can use to output the audio to framemeister or pvm.
I've never supported anyone through Patreon. You guys are so knowledgable and you're videos are easy to understand and super-well made. Forgive me for evoking a tired meme but please start a Patreon and "shut up and take my money!"
[Try4ce] We appreciate that! We do in fact have a Patreon, and it plays a huge role in helping us get all of the equipment needed for RGB videos, and for travel for documentary subjects!
I contacted retrogamingcables and apparently the male to male Packapunch is not currently available. They recommended another but, of course, I worry that I will lose some quality. The switcher I'm planning on getting is the Hama 100s.
Hey Coury and Try! Quick question. At 10:48, instead of using the Dsub output with a HD15 to BNC cable to a PVM, couldn't you also just use a Scart to BNC breakout cable and output through the Scart connector on the Gscart? Thanks again!
[Try4ce] Yes you could. The only reason we didn't use that was because we were using the SCART output for the OSSC and/or Framemeister. However you can no longer buy those gscarts that have the Dsub, nowadays they just have two SCART outputs, so you'd have to do what you're saying anyway. That's what I'm doing now because I traded someone my Dsub unit for one of the more recent models.
@@mylifeingaming That's the conclusion I came to as well. I'm still learning the whole setup process, and it seemed to me that the v5 Gscartsw simply gave us another Scart output along with sync regeneration, and Dsub no longer was necessary. Very cool! This is likely what I'll be doing. Thanks Try!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Me as a kid: "Just plug the yellow and white cables into the TV and the other wire for the wall"
Me as an adult: "Gotta make sure my house is grounded before using my consoles"
one benefit i have of living in the uk, i guess! the "ring" system has its oddities... but at least every house is properly grounded. (thankfully nowadays multi-voltage power adapters are a thing, and i can use 60hz consoles on most every display just fine.)
SuperSaiyanPikmin 😂😂😂
SuperSaiyanPikmin Honestly things were often easier where I live in the UK. Just plug the SCART/RF cable into the TV, and put the plug into the wall. And if you were using SCART, it’d get some of the best picture available.
@@justanotheryoutubechannel As long as the scart lead actually had RGB connected. Most of the ones that came packed in with consoles just had composite video, it wasn't until recently that RGB scart leads for consoles became more widely available.
MrEdrftgyuji OOF
That’s embarrassing. To our nation. Why wouldn’t we use RGB if our cables could support it!?
These guys are like the digital foundry of retro gaming.
Or reversed digital foundry. Meaning digital foundry mostly talks about modern games and rarely talks about retro games. MyLifeinGaming is the exact opposite
They official’y should be called ANALOG Foundry!!
Can someone explain why you would want a composite switch? Haven't it been established that RGB offers better picture quality than composite?
@@danielhenderson762 Simple, there are still a few consoles that do not offer RGB, mod or otherwise. Additionally, RGB interest is not universal, some people like to play via composite on older monitors, or RF on even older TV sets. Nostalgia, authenticity, it doesn't matter, it's just a matter of preference. If you have a lot of consoles like that, then a switch is useful. RGB is awesome, but you can still have fun with composite and a CRT. I grew up with RF from the 2600 all the way to the N64, and it was fine for the most part.
Hopefully with far fewer nuclear takes about people not liking videogames.
Your channel is one of the highest quality channels I have ever seen. I've learned a whole lot from your videos, and this channel is my number one source for retro gaming information. Keep up the great work!
this is so true..the quality from MLIG is exceptional! congratulations and keep the great work!
Second that.
They been on one of the TV channel before
These guys deserve more subscribers.
@Matthew Leisure Retro gaming is a niche market by itself, this makes retro gaming with upscalers and professional monitors even more of a niche market. I think that they'll finish 2017 with at lease 65k subs.
@John Locke What do you find annoying?
Couldn't agree more. His voice is like grinding on a chalk board. Kills it for me.
@John Locke I don't recall him ever trashing any game genre, at lease not in the same way that Zero Ponctuations (the so-called game critic) would. Can you name any specific episode so that I can listen for myself?
As for the way he speaks, that's more like your personal opinion than a general annoyance. I personally find it annoying when I get to some RUclips channel and the guy there only speaks like he was raised in the hoods or something, but that's just me, I like to hear proper English words.
His accent reminds me of Chris Bores
Man, this episode must have taken an insane amount of time dedicated to just the testing phase alone. Great work as always, guys.
Gameplay and Talk you know how great and clean Try's setup is? Every RGB episode makes it a huge mess. he's posted a pic or two on Twitter of how awful it gets.
Didn't even know I was doubling my low pass filter using the GSCARTSW and OSSC... Disabled it in the OSSC settings and yes, it's noticeably better now. Awesome stuff!
I've got a 16x8 Extron crosspoint. I made an array of 16 SCART to BNC converters to use it. It was a lot of work, but sooooo worth it. The whole set up only cost me about £80. I love it :)
Good job man, wish I was handy with soldering wires. As it stands I just spent $200+ on SCART to BNC cables to hook up all my RGB systems to the Extron Crosspoint. =(
I don't want to be that one guy who claims something really hard is super easy, but learning to use a soldering iron isn't as difficult as you'd imagine. Just takes practice.
TELL THAT TO ME WHO DESTROYED 2 GAMEGEARS!
Seriously every time i go looking for something new in this hobby there's always a wildly in depth MLIG video for it lol. Thanks fellas!
Holy balls thanks for this. Just ordered the Extron 84HVA and the Impact Acoustics. The Extron will go great in my server rack. just waiting on the Audio cables to come back in stock, though it looks like they might be easy to wire myself.
How have you liked this setup?
So happy hd retrovision exists. If not for them we would have to spend a fortune to get best picture out of our retro consoles
Thank you for all the time you guys invest in these videos. I have such a mess of cables I have to deal with any time I connect a console. I've been holding off on buying the switchers I need for years because I didn't want to be a guinea pig testing junk. I will be changing my set up now that there is solid information by people I trust to go on.
You guys provide some outstanding content that is meaningful and informative while maintaining zero clutter in communication. Seriously, you guys are amazing.
I ordered a gscartsw 5.1 in October 2018. Last week it arrived in germany. Sadly the customs authorities decline the import. Working with superg to get this issue solved.
Why did they decline the import?
Damn! That Hydra looks good, especially with it being expandable, that seems almost perfect for my setup.
OSSC + Hydra + appropriate SCART cables for each console + RGB mod to consoles that need it...
'nuff said.
I have the hydra now and I cant get half of my consoles to work on it
Hydra is sharp image and very easy to config the new versions is better to start a basic setup
the new Gcomp switch is DA BOMMMMMMB. 8+2 and dead simple to use. one goes to my 36' CRT and the other goes to my OSSC, which gets split to my OLED and capture card, couldn't be happier and if I really get desperate there's a solid $15 mechanical switcher that Matt from HDRetrovision recommends that can add 3 more inputs if I don't mind pressing a button every now and again.
It looks like the gscartsw is blurrier than the direct connection and Hydra. Also no seeing any loss in brightness on the Hydra either. 16:45
Same here. Could it be that the images are not labeled correctly? Because it doesn't match what they say during the comparison.
Your off screen CRT footage keeps getting better! Keep up the good work and glad to see the BVM D9 making its debut.
FYI on the 5 input Bandridge Automatic, it doesn't carry quite enough power for a sync stripper possibly if you have a cable with one in it. Funnily enough the Manual one doesn't have this limitation. I was pulling my hair out until I found that. So I went back the Bandridge manual and love it.
Are you saying i should get a better switcher?
I have that Auto one and i'm thinking of getting the Gscartw but it is $237.
So what exactly are the flaws with the monoprice component switcher? I'm just looking for a cheap and effective enough solution for component
I always think 'Ahhhh My Life In Gaming, I'll watch 5minutes to get an overview of the episode' *30minutes later* 'Good episode...'
It pains me to see how expensive RGB scart based stuff is in the States. I've been tempted for a while to put together low cost bundles for people overseas. Even 'cheap' (or affordable) mechanical switchers in the UK are pretty decent since they mostly just act as a pass-through. Automatic switching is nice but for the sake of pushing a button and not worrying about power leaks etc. I'd go mechanical.
have you found good switchers in the UK? i'm there, but haven't been able to find any SCART equipment for about 5 years. the last time i saw any, i was thinking to myself, "pfft, i've already moved over to HDMI!"... whoops!
Argos and Maplins still have bits in/easiest to source from. Rarely had a problem with anything from either of them. Had to set up some old scart freeview boxes/DVD players in some rooms in a care-home I work at with LCD TV's that still had the scart inputs and they worked great.
I have a scart swticher going to a scart to hdmi converter (both maplins) and they work flawlessly together. :)
Samcubegamer nice! thank you! i remember trying to get a specific kind of audio cable from there once, the first time i'd been, and no one knew what any of it was, and they didn't have it, so i sort of.... mentally wrote it off as not very useful, haha
thankyou! the awful (unpowered, "auto switching", image ghosting) scart switcher i had back circa 2005 was from argos, though i didn't know they still sold any.
No problem :)
There are multible RUclips Channels and videos that I can list that could totally be respectable cable TV shows. This is one of them.
I wish that you did cover HAMA/ VIVANCO AV-100S SCART switcher. I was curious how it is comparable with others devices.
Bought the Hama version since it was recommended on a retrogaming-and-RGB site because it didn't add any noise and... found out it buzzes like hell, especially when light colours are shown on screen, and just had to throw it away.
I also was hoping to get some info on this one as they are cheap as dirt and supposedly good.
+Erike Pede Are you sure it was the fault of the switcher, or could it be that your RGB cables aren't high grade enough to go through a switcher?
I sure wish so, but no: tried different cables and the buzz was always there, especially with lots of light/strong colours onscreen. =(
+Erik Pede Did you try any cables with better conductors and shielding, something like the professional multicore coaxial cable upgrade seen from 3:27? An upgraded cable from the switcher output to your display or upscaler might have helped, for example.
Just got the hydra v2 which now has 2 outputs as well as the 8 or 16 inputs. What a beast of device, i love it!
Sakura theme at 6:19
I’ve started using a Bandridge SVB7725 in my setup, but I’ve noticed some weirdness. The 5th input doesn’t work with my RGB SCART cables, (at all!) but judging by the AV5/VCR text, I’d guess that like my Trinitron’s second SCART input, it cannot accept RGB and instead uses S-Video and Composite. The real weird thing is though, I’m not having any of the voltage leakage issues and consoles not working on all inputs. Aside from AV5, where none of my RGB consoles work, (I’ll probably use it for a composite NES until I can mod one, or my VCR.) everything else works on all inputs. The picture is brilliant, no loss is noticeable on my CRT. However, my Mega Drive has as issue, vertically rolling noise bars that look similar to a rewinding or fast-forwarding VCR, except far less intense. They are barely noticeable with Sonic running around Green Hill, my main noise test, but they are noticeable on the tile screen and any dark screens. I don’t know what is causing it, but I do know that my Mega Drive is the only console I own that isn’t using an original AC adaptor, because the original one went missing last year only to turn up in a box that hadn’t been opened for about 10 years, (I blame my house’s ghost, as that box had been buried under 5 other boxes on top of a cupboard no one else in my family can reach, and had been up there for at least a decade when I took it down to look for stuff and found the cable) but now that I know where the original plug is I’m going to try it with a stock adaptor rather than the 3rd party one I have now.
Have you tried connecting the BNC switchers directly to a HDTV via component? These BNC switchers sound like a very limited featured but a cheap way to get RGB on your TV compared to the framemeister. From what I'm hearing at least, this sounds like a switcher where i can connect all my component devices via 75ohm terminators and connect my scart switcher here as well since i got scart to BNC and thus connect it to the PVM and the HDTV. Let me know if this is a viable option.
+Bing Talks [Try4ce] Well, they just pass the signals that you put into them. If you put in component (YPbPr) then it outputs the same. It does not convert to or from RGB. You can use RGB and YPbPr on the same Extron with the same cables, but the TV would have to be capable of accepting both signals over the right inputs.
My Life in Gaming ah dreamcast video next right
My Life in Gaming is there any advantage to using Component Cable instead of SCART for systems that support both?
Mainly for consoles that can access 480p, though sometimes RGB looks better due to white balance... In other words the advantages and disavantages vary console to console.
YPbPr != RGB
Don't know if anyone's mentioned it in the comments yet, but I've been using Tim Worthington's SCARTMUX SCART switcher for the last little while and have been loving it. 4 in, 2 out, automatic switching, has toggleable sync stripping if you need it, and I'm even able to get the USB port on my TV to power it (a simple phone charger block with a mini-USB cable will work fine too, or plugging into your Framemeister if you use that)! Uses an 8-pin DIN port for output, so you'll have to buy a cable appropriate for your setup (which Tim sells as well) - you can use the 8-pin DIN to SCART cable from the NESRGB kit on Tim Worthington's website (which, even for a soldering novice like me, was doable) and has audio broken out of the video signal (best to integrate it with your setup, I plug the 3.5mm audio cable directly into the audio in on my OSSC), but those are minor quirks. As well, maybe only having 4 inputs will be a dealbreaker for some, but it was fine for me. I haven't been able to get sync-on-green working for PS2 480p as of yet over SCART (don't know if any other SCARTMUX users have?) but I've been more than happy to just play with the 4x 480i mode from the OSSC. Anyways, great video guys! This entire masterclass series helped me plan out and get my retro gaming setup in top shape - thank you so much! :)
I have several cheap SCART switches that cost me basically nothing. I use them with a CRT and I have yet to notice any degradation. I live in Europe so my CRT has full RGB support. I also tested some automatic SCART switches - cheap ones and they are really bad. It's not so hard to find some amazing cables for retro console here at flea markets, so I didn't have to spend loads of cash just to get better image out of my consoles.
Just a necro post note about the extron crosspoint: It only accepts CSYNC. Sync on Green or Luma consoles such as the Playstation must be equipped with a sync stripper for the signal to be compatible. Despite this limit on the sync, this unit is compatible with various RGBs Standards including HV and component. Another small thing to note about extron crosspoints is that it has been reported that they output to a 510 ohm csync standard; higher than 75 Ohm sync on scart which could damage your OSSC from the extra voltage. The dip switches on the back are for input only and will not alter the output to a 75 ohm specification. A fix for this is to put a 470 ohm resistor into the CSYNC line on your BNC to Scart passive converter (on the scart end) to lower that standard to within the 75 ohm specification on CSYNC. Since there isn't a good method to exchange the BNC connection output by the Extron crosspoint to component for the OSSC, you do need a BNC to Scart passive adapter to plug into a shielded male-male scart lead into the OSSC to prevent a loss in image quality. In special cases such as the Playstation, the direct BNC options do not come built in with a sync stripper and thus the Scart version must be purchased along with a sync stripper equipped version of the Scart to BNC passive adapter found at retrogamingcables for a bit more money than the direct option. A different avenue of approach for this is to add a sync stripper into the Scart console cable with a bit of soldering and use a standard Scart to BNC passive adapter for slightly less money. Now a note about the Extron's relative cost to the cables.
BNC cables direct from the console can be had for about 54 US dollars each, can be customized in length to fit extron crosspoints that have more inputs (and are larger) and can be fitted with phoenix connectors instead of RCA audio for no extra cost to you. If you think that is expensive, the Scart switchers that are available in limited batches (the generic ones are rare these days) are about the equivalent cost of 3-4 of these BNC cables alone (gscart is 220 + 17 USD while hydra is slightly cheaper with only one output - 160 USD). True, the console Scart cables are less expensive overall, but when you put the cost of the switcher into the mix it really adds up. In a modest setup with only three inputs the Scart based solution is up to 150 dollars more expensive than the BNC option. Just throwing it out there for those who do not want to break the bank using RGB.
Good lord this video is nuts. Wish I saw this two years ago the new gccomp coming out is 220 bucks which is a bit much. I wish he still had the 4 input one avalible.
This is extra helpful for setting up my entire console array. All these switchers are making my head swim in information.
HAMA AV-100S. Perfect SCART switch if you only need 3 inputs. Bought mine for $25 shipped from Germany brand new in the box.
I've found mine new in a store two months ago (I'm in Italy). They're still in production, like the Bandridge. Easy to find in Europe.
oh man, for real? electronics stores in the UK stopped selling SCART cables and switchers like 5 or so years ago, best as i can tell. (i've obviously not been in, like, every one of them or anything.)
back in the day the cheap passive (not even button-selector) SCART switch i bought bled the image through from all the sources, and the powered switchers were like 5x the cost. so i just manually changed my plugs around, since i would have rather had another game than the extra convenience.
but now, i somewhat regret it, because it's so difficult to find them! i do remember hama being a good name though. maybe i should look on some online stores situated in mainland europe.... better act fast too, since there'll be customs fees from europe before long ._.
Kit Vitae fun thing: the box on the back uses an OgXbox silhouette to indicate game consoles 😁
The HAMA switch is very nice. I used one of those before as well. I recently switched to a 6 port scart switch from otaku-games.com and love it. It was less then 50 bucks including shipping.
I also have one of their 6 port switches and love that i don't need the Scart to BNC adapter cable for using it with my PVM. Another $30 saved just by that.
I absolutely love EVERYTHING on your channel, guys! The intros, the themes, the background, the sound clarity, the summary, the scripting, the information. CONGRATULATIONS! By the way, there are a small amount of videos I can afford to watch in 1x speed, most of them I must speed up, sometimes to 2x because it's a looooooong road until you hear what matters and to clutch up all the information scattered in 10 minutes of blabbering and wannabefunny speech!
I had to rewatch 19:25 cause it made me laugh so hard.
To my eyes, the Hydra switcher looked sharper than all of the other EuroSCART switchers.
No love for the HAMA? They are one of the very few people to still do factory-built scart switchers!
I'm glad that I have finished my setup when I see you do vids like this. The gscartsw was tricky enough to get when not as many people knew about them :) Great vid though
woah what is the music at 6:20?
spicymmmmm that would be Sakura's theme from the Street Fighter Alpha series I believe.
Sakura's theme from Street Fighter Alpha 2
I honestly love this channel. I was in a state of panic after adopting cysnc and realizing after that my bandridges weren't compatible. This answered all of my questions on how to create a new setup to accommodate differences in my setup.
"I'll be over in a little bit. I have to watch this 28 minute video on switchers first."
I bought the Bandridge SVB7735 after watching this video. I'm very happy with it. Thank you so much Coury and Try! Love the channel.
Oh my god! Why are they so expensive!? I don’t get it! Screw this, I’m just gonna manually switch my SCART cables out... And I live in the UK where bloody everyone used SCART, they were practically standard back in the day! *EDIT:* Christ, Switchboxes seem to have so many issues that it’s probably just easier to switch cables out by hand. Like, how am I supposed to know if my house is grounded or not? It was built 70 years ago by the government, I don’t know if that’s bad or not! Nor do I know anything about the quality of my power! Why does power even have quality!? And switchers cause a quality drop off? Why!? You’d think someone would make a proper noise-free lossless switcher, at least out here in the UK where SCART was a big thing, but sadly no.
*EDIT EDIT:* Just brought a Bandridge SVB7725. Looking forward to when it arrives.
I got myself a Bandridge SVB7725 off eBay earlier this year. It’s a great device, and I’ve had literally no issues. None. I didn’t even have to mod mine! Annoyingly, it’s AV5/VCR port doesn’t support RGB, but even if it did I’d still be 2 inputs short. Originally, the Bandridge supported exactly the amount of inputs I needed, but my setup has grown since then. It was real cheap too, there is (or at least was) a guy selling loads of them on eBay for £25 quid.
My setup consists of each device, a SNES, a Mega Drive, a PS2, a Wii, a DVD player, a PVR/Set-top box, a VCR, and an original PS1, hooked up via RGB SCART cable from Retro Gaming Cables UK, (except for the VCR, which is using a well-insulated SCART cable using gold-coated connections, and the PVR/DVD player, as they use a special cable I’ll describe later.) plugged into the Bandridge. Not everything fits, however, I have too many SCARTs. So the PS1 is almost never hooked up, I rarely use the DVD player, instead using the PVR’s USB input to watch video files, so the DVD player is unplugged but I can switch the two out if I need to watch a disc, and I switch the SNES and Mega Drive when I want to play the other one.
After the Bandridge, the video is outputted using a completely insane SCART cable my father gave me. His friend brought them back in the 1990’s, and used them for everything, saying they made his video sources look way better, so my dad brought some for himself, and used them to hook up him VCR. As, unsurprisingly, they didn’t look any better, he threw them in the loft and gave them to me this year when I asked him if he had any spare SCARTs. Apparently, he spent £100 pounds PER CABLE, and he brought two of them. That’s 200 POUNDS!
Of course, there’s a reason why they are so expensive. Both cables are built out of gold. Literally. The bits you hold as you insert them are super-heavy-duty steel, and the cables both within the wire and the plugs that go into the input socket are super heavily insulated and made out of gold. It’s not even coated, it’s just GOLD. So all my video output goes though one of these solid gold cables into my Sony Trinitron KV-21X5U 15khz CRT, and it looks stunning. The PVR/DVD Player use the other cable, as dad gave them both to me, and I keep one input in the Bandridge at all times, and I switch the other end between the two devices.
Overall, I’m super happy with the setup. I’m going to add another Bandridge someday, and daisy-chain them. I’ll probably use the PVR/DVD Player’s £100 SCART to connect the two switchers, and I’ll grab another gold-plated cable like I use for the VCR to use with the PVR/DVD Player. I’m not exactly sure where I’d put the Bandridge though, as with my current Bandridge I can barely fit all the cables in, and I’m actually using the VCR to weigh down the Bandridge’s little foot-thing, otherwise the overpriced golden SCARTs will pull it over. (They are proper heavy, drop one on your foot and it might break it from enough height.)
Oh, and Hydra is totally the perfect name for a SCART switcher, my Bandridge looks like a SCART-Hydra hybrid even though it only has 6 cables in it.
I have the same switcher, I live in USA, and I also don't have any noticeable issue with power leaking back into my genesis from what I can see.
I am so getting one of those monstrous Extron Matrix Switchers with 32 inputs and 32 outputs. I don’t even need one, but I want one as it’s just beautiful. IT’S MASSIVE AND COMPLETELY MAD!
5:20 I own two of those Packapunch cables, one two daisy chain my two Bandridge switches together and one to output my main Bandridge to my SCART amplifier with twenty outputs (no really!), and I can confirm that Packapunch effectively eliminates audio buzz and provides a clean video signal every time. :)
I also own 3 packapunch cables for the ps2, wii and japanese super nintendo. I heard something about issues with this switch in combination with csync. Is this true because after reading your comment I really would like a Brandridge switcher with no audio buzz. Thank you.
THANK YOU ! THANK YOU , THANK YOU! I have been looking for ideas on scart switchers for months.
Great episode as always guys. Speaking of Pelican switchers, they actually made an 8 input one for S-Video, Composites and Components. It's electronic, so there's an AC for it, but it works great, I was using it before when I had a CRT.
One final note regarding SCART switchers when going the 2160p (4K) UHD route. I bought those cheap 5 ways black SCART switchers on ebay when I got my XRGB-Mini. I had no issues with them on my regular HD Samsung TV, but when I moves to my new UHD Samsung TV this week, any issues that were not noticeable at a 3x upscaling to 720p are now VERY noticeable at a 9x upscaling of 2160p.
I was seeing a bunch of noise in the background, reminded me of interference on an old CRT (snow effect). When I hooked my consoles straight to the XRGB-Mini, the issue was gone. In a way, your episode came out just in time for me :)
22:11 I have a question about those SCART to BNC adapters.
I see that you are feeding your RGBs signal into the Extron via SCART to BNC and then into the Framemeister via a second SCART to BNC. I don't have an Extron, but I do have an Atlona splitter box that accepts YPbPr, RGBHV or RGBS via separate RCA plugs.
My question is, what if you are feeding both RGB and composite video into your SCART switcher and want to feed the signal to a splitter box that supports RGBS via separate RCA inputs? Can composite video be carried through those SCART to BNC adapter? Maybe through the sync plug when RGB is not in use?
I'm using the unpowered Bandridge switcher and the generic SCART to HDMI for anything that supports RGB or composite. It works fine, but there are some Sega light gun games that I'd like to output to my CRT. My CRT only supports composite, so obviously I need an RGB to composite transcoder. But I'm looking for a way to split the signal so I can send RGB and Composite to my SCART to HDMI and my CRT simultaneously.
I'm wondering if I should try using SCART to BNC since I already have an Atlona splitter box that accepts RGBS through RCA, or if I should invest in a dedicated SCART amplifier if those BNC adapters don't handle composite?
Thanks for another great video!
I'm glad you finally got to talk about the quality of the cables, since yeah... today we have digital cables and everything is fine, but analogue stuff is a completely different story.
I finally found a Bandridge SVB7725 and couldn't wait to try it out. Before commencing with the small mod you mentioned, I quickly tried it out and no detail was lost or noise was added. However, the colours had changed and became a bit over-saturated and murky. I wasn't sure if the mod you mentioned would fix it but I gave it a go. Alas, the incorrect colour persists. Regardless of what console or scart input I use. And I also use packapunch cables so I know my cables are decent. I've gone back to my 3-scart selector because even though there are less inputs, at least it's entirely accurate. I'm a bit gutted that my Bandridge didn't turn out how I imagined it and I will be selling it.
Hey, My Life in Gaming I can say that the active component switch from monoprice is really good. It supports up to 4 component video inputs at once and has an 'IR learning' remote though it takes a bit to get it to learn.
I have an 8x8 component matrix switcher that I love. That mixed with my 2 gscart switchers and a framemeister, makes it really easy to simultaneously output all of my consoles to my hdtv and my CRT. As soon as I get a PVM, I'll be able to add that to one of my component outputs without any problems.
All of my cables are a mess behind my TVs though, and there is no way I could explain how to turn anything on to someone else haha. It works for me though.
I came up with a set-up that worked for me. I started with an Extron Crosspoint 300 Series 168 HV, so I had sixteen inputs and sixteen outputs. However, they were just R, G, B, H, and V. There were no Phoenix connectors or any other setup for audio. Now, I use YPbPr component, which only uses three connectors for video, so I thought I could just use the H and V for makeshift audio. However, that was no good. The box did some sort of automatic adjustment to the H an V lines, presumably to clean up sync, which ruined the audio signal. I never figured out a way to turn it off.
For awhile, I thought I would be stuck chaining audio switchboxes together, as I had thirteen positions filled on the Extron, and it is hard to find an audio switch to cope with that. I have no amp, so I had to funnel audio into at most two outputs for my big TV and PVM. Then I found a switchbox by Distribution Technology. I think it was for security cameras, as it had a BNC port for composite video and RCA for left and right audio. It had fifteen inputs and one output, so it solved my audio problem.
1:39-1:50 Is composite video also sensitive to unclean power? All my RGB and composite consoles are plugged into my Bandridge switcher, which then outputs to my generic SCART to HDMI. The only system I can't get to work with this setup is my PC Engine Duo. It downright refuses to cooperate with any AV switcher I plug it into. Whenever I feed it into a switcher, there is very noticeable noise in the video. Lines and snow. It almost looks like I'm outputting it through RF! The only way to get a clean picture is to plug it into a second SCART to HDMI with a SCART to AV adapter. I'm not using the official PSU though, I'm using a generic 100-240V PSU. Could the PSU be at fault? Should I get an official PSU and step down transformer?
I've been using the joytech control centre 540c for years now, and have been really happy with it. It's a powered 6 in 1 out switch with IR remote control, and does component, composite, and svideo with spdif, and has a dedicated port for Xbox 360 cable. It has a built in 6 port eithernet hub too, which is really handy for more modern consoles. It's styled to look a lot like a 1st gen Xbox 360 and has a backlit lcd display with adjustable brightness level, which shows the name of the currently selected input (you can reprogram the names for each input yourself too). I actually have 2 of them in my setup, one dedicated to Y Pb Pr and the other dedicated to composite, and I've never found anything else on the market that even comes close to them in terms of functions, looks and usability. I would highly recommend this device to any retrogamer! (I always thought it was a bit odd that nobody else in the scene ever seems to mention this thing, as it's so good)
that vertical scrolling overhead run-and-gun shooter at 15:30? It's Shock Troopers for the NEO GEO
I have a HAMA switcher and it works great on my setup. You guys are the best. Learnt a lot with you. Thank you.
Glad the hydra works well with the ossc as I got mine delivered a week ago, now I just need my ossc and Ill be all set :)
been considering buying a Hydra scart switch what do I need to do to make it work with my framemeister ? how do I strip the sync is there a cable I can purchase ? I am alittle confused to what must be done to make the Hydra work with csync and luma over to the framemeister. can I please get some insight ?
Glad to know component switchers are so simple and cheap. If I get some of those component cords for the SNES and Genesis to go with my Wii/PS2 component cord, and a single adapter for a scaler, that'd be a lot of my needs covered. Not all of them, but enough that I could stand to just change SCART cables on a case by case basis.
Love the little touches with sounds and sprites. Fun
My gscartsw has been sitting dormant but is about to get some use as soon as I get my N64 modded for RGB, since I'll have all of Nintendo's first 3 consoles RGB ready at that point. Gonna use it to send signal to both the PVM and Framemeister, it's going to be amazing.
Did you get it all set up?
I'm no A/V pro but isn't the Bandridge a shade or something off from direct, at 7:02 for example? The brown of the orb, his flesh, the grey spot below the sunglasses, just seems off
On opening the Bandrige switch.....gouge small holes in the screw covers with a small screwdriver or drill (it's easy, it's quite soft plastic) then screw a small screw into the hole and pull the cover out with some pliers griping the screw, very easy and no horrible scratches created
THANK YOU! A new, epic video!
I found a Pelican System Selector Pro PL-960 yesterday, $60. It's an active power 8-input, 1-output. It allows Composite, S-Video, Component, TosLink & 2 RCA stereo audio out. It's a worth while buy if you find one. It was sold at Gamestop back in the day so its consumer grade and fits into your A/V shelf better than something like the Extron will. Word of warning I actually broke mine while testing all the ports. One of the RCA jacks was not installed flush with the PCB so all the load of plugging/unplugging was carried by the solder joint itself. Which of course ripped free from the PCB. I was able to fix it, the contact pad area for the jacks is thankfully very large so I was able to scrape away a new contact point, re-solder and then hot glued it down for safety. So I guess what I'm saying is give all the jacks a wiggle test before you start plugging in to them. If they move that means they are on their way to breaking eventually.
In terms of image quality it seems okay to me. Just going into a 14" Toshiba consumer CRT. It doesn't appear to be any different from plugging straight into the TV itself.
You can tell what era its from as its labels are; PS2, Gamecube, Xbox.
Also since it happened to me don't use those Monster cables with the tight connector grip (the spiral look). Definitely what contributed to me breaking the jack. They are simply way, way to tight. Like trying to free a vice grip.
YES!!! Finally, cause of you guys, I recently got the gscartsw 3.4. $220, but damn it's amazing.
I really appreciated this video, guys. This answered a lot of questions I had and was extremely helpful. Already a subscriber, but this is what I watch for. Thank you.
this must have taken a century to edit together. thank you for your work
I just bought an extron crosspoint and got all the adaptors and using hd retrovision cables. Can’t wait to see how it turns out
My Genesis works perfectly with a Csync cable going to a Hydra 5 port scart switch into a Framemeister.
(17:38) When will we get some info on that box, among other things?
Thank you for recommending the xtron, I was planning to mostly do component and wanted a switcher that could also be an active splitter for recording GameCube without being too much resistance on the output and shortening the consoles life span. Having the option to run old console directly or throw up scalers on my monitor while streaming or recording upscaled signal sounds worth the extra hassle.
This is so fascinating. I imagine your chain would probably go something like this:
Console->gscartsw->OSSC->Denon Receiver->LG OLED, assuming you want to use a 4k TV instead of a CRT.
[Try4ce] Exactly correct!
@@mylifeingaming Wonderful! I'm very grateful for your videos, you've both taught me so much. This is certainly the direction I'll be going!
I got myself a Bandridge SVB7735 (Powered) RGB Scart switcher based on the recommendations of this video and it is fantastic bit of kit. The image is clean, the ports don't interfere with each other and the build quality is excellent for the money! I'm not sure what the availability is like in the States but there seems to be plenty available here in UK/Europe anyway.
22:30 So is it really just as easy as plugging YPbPr component cables (with BNC adapter) into the RGB of an extron switcher? Like if I were to use the Genesis HD Retrovision cables in an extron using bnc adapters, can I forget about the HV sync and just have the output go to my PVM?
24:52 What music is that from? Sounds like something from one of those 60s spy TV shows.
+Jarrah White [Try4ce] The component section, right? That's the title theme from Punch-Out on the Wii.
I've been using the mechanical bandridge switcher for about 12 months now. Once you cut that trace it's a really good switcher for the money. The cost cost of getting a gscart shipped to my country is a bit too much to swallow, so it's a good alternative.
I use a bandridge switch box to the mini framemeister, all my consoles look amazing with this setup
I am currently waiting for my 8:2 component gcomp switch and that’ll go nicely with my set up on the analog side for my CRT. Once I'm done with that, I'll start thinking about what to do about sending dual signals to the CRT and the HDTV.
13:00 I tried to get the gscart lite but was discontinued, almost brought a otaku 6in3 which can hurt the equipment if not careful.
I love the variety of games you showcase! Not only big hits, as well! Toejam and Earl 2, and Illbleed...some of my favourite "hidden gem" type games!
I actually find it weird that you guys had trouble hooking things up to the Extron units without a sync stripper in line. I have an Extron Crosspoint 12x8 (12 inputs, 8 outputs) with 8 systems hooked up to it, 4 of which use RGB, and sync has never been a problem.
That being said, Extron units seem to have been built to order. I've opened up 3 units with the exact same configuration (all 12x8) and series number, but each one had completely different components (which means I couldn't harvest parts for my original 12x8, oh well).
**EDIT**
I also figured I'd mention that the other benefit to the Extron Crosspoint Switcher, besides being able to accept almost every type of input you can think of, is that you can use a JP-21 RGB cable as an input and a Euro SCART as an output or vice versa by simply swapping the red, green and blue cables around till they form a true color picture. What this means is that you can use Euro SCART cables on your Extron Switcher and the breakout, JP-21 cable that comes with the XRGB Framemeister without buying a new breakout cable.
that video came just in time! i just moved into my first own flat and now i have to hook about ten retro consoles :)
10:39-11:05 I have an Extron video processor with 15-pin D-SUB input that ostensibly takes RGBHV and RGBs signal, and outputs either to RGBHV. This unit is capable of line-doubling for 240p from composite or component inputs and outputting to VGA, so I'm confident it can do the same for D-SUB. I also have BNC to D-SUB cable, made for RGBHV. My question is, if I'm using a cable from wookiewin to connect a Genesis to this converter cable, and then to the Extron unit, which sync BNC cable should I be using? Or should I buy a different cable altogether?
[Try4ce] Can't quite wrap my head around it. But essentially all Genesis cables are fundamentally RGBS, though - CSYNC means sync has its own line... and sync-on-composite is also a line separate from RGB, thus RGBS.
@@mylifeingaming I guess I'm asking which pin on the D-SUB you show in the timecode in my original comment is used for the sync signal.
[Try4ce] That I don't know. I do know however, that on that older gscart in particular (the current ones don't have the Dsub), the Dsub to 4-BNC that Monoprice sells works... but the 5-BNC version does not, even if you only use one of the sync lines, neither seems to have CSYNC. What's interesting about this is that the Nt mini and Analogue DAC use the same cables, but send CSYNC over some pin on the 5-BNC cable... you only use one of the cables, of course, but for whatever reason, the 4-BNC cable does not work. So all that to say, H sync, V sync, and C sync do not share the same pins on those devices, so I don't think, for example, you could couple them together and expect the signal to carry the whole way through. Not sure if that gives you any idea as to whether what you want to do will work, but that's my experience with the sync continuity on those cables, with those specific devices, at least.
I see. Thanks again, Try!
I'm so tempted to invest in an Extron Crosspoint. I think my two qualms are needing power (I'm spoiled with mechanical) and buying/creating audio adapters. Would get great to throw all my analog YPbPr sources onto a single switch.
On my last day on earth, during my final hour, I wish to watch a 59 minute MLIG video
didn't know about that trace needing to be cut. i've had no issues, so never looked into it. is there a list of consoles with the voltage backfeed problem?
Nadia Clawson I think some Bandridge units are fine, I got one of the same model, and it works fine with no issues. Maybe it’s because I’m using PAL in the UK?
My theory is that maybe Bandridge removed the trace from later units, and all the early ones have been sold, so anyone who buys them now gets a pre-fixed unit.
I would like to point out that, for the Pelican Component Switcher(and it's rebadged Gamestop branded equivalents) don't have any sort of shielding on them and if you're using one, you'll want to be a bit careful about where you place it in regards of other electronics. I've had interference introduced when (temporarily) placed on top of a PS3, and you'll want to have some sort of spacer if you want to place it on the top of a PVM, as I have seen interference added in this case as well.
So if I were to use an Extron for strictly component video only, would I be able to use the H/V connections to pass left and right audio through, or would I still have to use the phoenix connections? BTW great channel guys! Ever since I stumbled onto RGB 104, I've been hooked since. Easily my favorite channel on RUclips. Keep up the amazing work!
I just tried Connecting my L and R Audio to the H and V Inputs of my crosspoint. It actually works but I had to increase the volume a lot. My PVM is still not loud enough. So I would not recommend this method.
I absolutely love all the sound effects and animations!
You guys have an awesome channel. Keep up the good work. I always learn so much.
Question for you. I just got my Hydra Mini in the mail today. I am using the following.
1. Japanese Sega Saturn
2. Scart cable from Retro Access PRO COAXIAL cable
3. SCART TO SCART CABLE - PRO COAXIAL MULTICORE FOR SWITCH BOXES from Retro Access
4. OSSC
5. 2017 LG OLED TV B7
6. I am using the specification for the PSU at 12v DC 1500ma.
I am getting some audio humming coming from the TV. I am wondering why I am getting the humming sound?
I got the same Monoprice component switcher three years ago. I noticed that it suddenly has interference. How do I fix it? Anything I can do to shield it?
Did you change something in your setup? Maybe different cables next to the switcher is affecting it or/and the cables you're using aren't adequately shielded?
@@Anemptybox Hi. I have isolated everything I can. Different cables, consoles, power outlet. Still the same issue.
Dumb question incoming. I have both a pvm (can't do 480p) and a framemeister to my lcd. I'm going to get the gscartsw lite since it is automatic and can output to both tvs. I actually have 10 scart sources, 1 svideo, and two component. I just picked up the bandridge 5 port switch for my scart2pi, ps1, and ps2. However, my gamecube is only sporting s-video. If I use the s-video input on the bandridge does that make it a rgb like signal over scart that my framemeister will understand as well as my pvm via rgb breakout cables? I bet it is only a feature european tvs can take advantage of but if my s-video can also be ran as automatic I won't complain. I have a cheap s-video switch I can use to output the audio to framemeister or pvm.
I've never supported anyone through Patreon. You guys are so knowledgable and you're videos are easy to understand and super-well made.
Forgive me for evoking a tired meme but please start a Patreon and "shut up and take my money!"
[Try4ce] We appreciate that! We do in fact have a Patreon, and it plays a huge role in helping us get all of the equipment needed for RGB videos, and for travel for documentary subjects!
My Life in Gaming Thanks so much! I actually found it late last night after watching the Night Trap documentary. I plan on contributing later today!
Such an awesome channel. Have only just subscribed. What have I been missing?!?
[Try4ce] I enjoy getting this message on this video in particular... this was such a particularly arduous video to make!
I contacted retrogamingcables and apparently the male to male Packapunch is not currently available. They recommended another but, of course, I worry that I will lose some quality. The switcher I'm planning on getting is the Hama 100s.
Hey Coury and Try! Quick question. At 10:48, instead of using the Dsub output with a HD15 to BNC cable to a PVM, couldn't you also just use a Scart to BNC breakout cable and output through the Scart connector on the Gscart?
Thanks again!
[Try4ce] Yes you could. The only reason we didn't use that was because we were using the SCART output for the OSSC and/or Framemeister. However you can no longer buy those gscarts that have the Dsub, nowadays they just have two SCART outputs, so you'd have to do what you're saying anyway. That's what I'm doing now because I traded someone my Dsub unit for one of the more recent models.
@@mylifeingaming That's the conclusion I came to as well. I'm still learning the whole setup process, and it seemed to me that the v5 Gscartsw simply gave us another Scart output along with sync regeneration, and Dsub no longer was necessary. Very cool! This is likely what I'll be doing. Thanks Try!