Phonedork was kind enough to remind us that users of the original gscartsw can also pass component video and RGBsB by using the port closest to the outputs. This won't work on the "lite" edition, but as he shows in the video, it's a great solution for the original gscartsw. The latest model will work through all the ports, not just that one: ruclips.net/video/NZoRlhSqzWg/видео.html
We have some updates for our switch: Calibration of the RGB and video levels: We bought a Rigol osilloscope and have noticed that we made a human error calibrating our switches. We have fixed that and now we are in the range of +- 5 Millivolts for each level. We also use potentiometers which are easier to callibrate. Audio buzz: There was a clipping of the audio above some levels. We could make a small change to our circuit to support higher levels. The buzz is now gone for the Sega Genesis headphone jack on max volume (was not before the update). Switching speed: We made the switching a bit slower so there is no Automatic switching while you are selecting another channel with the knob. Video noise: We could not make an improvement without some price increase, but there is a "low noise upgrade" available now for our switch which reduces all the noise noticed during the tests. It is available for CHF 20 surcharge. 3D Print quality: The housing was not printed with a dry box. This was visible. All new housings are printed using a dry box so the whole housing has the same print quality. Sync stripper: Was not available during the tests, but now it is available as an additional pure sync adaptor. It can be done that the switch powers the sync stripper over an unused scart line so no other signals are affected. The cable is also available with a USB connection for universal usage. Second scart socket for upscaler: If someone needs a second scart output for an upscaler, we have created a special adaptor cable to use the second output of our switch for it.
Even though I know you don't rate the 5 port manual Bandridge switch much it would have been nice to see it in the comparisons, as they are still changing hands 2nd hand at ludicrously high prices (for a basic switch) and if people could see if they are worth those prices it would be good.
I have a 5-port manual Bandridge, I got mine for £25 in box but I’m not sure if it was used or not. It looks great, I get no noticeable video quality loss or any interference and it’s been serving my retro setup well for 3 or 4 years now. I was warned before I brought it that they sometimes have issues with certain cables in certain sockets, or have voltage leakage where the Mega Drive power light may come on due to another console being turned on, but for the first two years I had none of these issues. In the last year though I have had slight issues, once or twice I had a console fail to work until I changed the slot, and my mega drive power light sometimes turns on if I have the SNES enabled in certain slots, but it’s never caused any serious issues. My only real complaint has been that it doesn’t have that many ports, 5 is fine for now for my setup, but if I want to expand the setup at all I can’t do it without a second switcher, and daisychaining them might cause interference. I hope the prices haven’t become really ridiculous as I’m looking into buying another one soon. I wonder why Bob dislikes them so badly, I understand worry about the voltage leaking and occasional console incompatibilities but I’ve found they are never a serious issue, right now I have Mega Drive in AV4 and SNES in AV5, and I’m having no issues at all, and I can’t see any extra interference.
Thanks so very much for all this hard work. You are really a huge contributor to the whole retro community. I could write a page long of all the things you did right in this video! I really like the gscartsw as well. And initially I really did not like the huge price, but once I got it, I was like: "100% worth it!" I use both outputs. The only feauture I wish it had was somehow detect composite. But it does not. Small issue, but wuld be convenient for testing composite equipment like clone/tv game systems.
I LOVED my Shinybow...until I discovered my reciever didn't support 480p natively, nor upconvertion a no go. I cried retiring her. 480i was the best I was gonna get from my majestic scart to component Shinybow. 😳😳😳💔💔💔😔😔😔
I've had a 4 port Shinybow Scart and Component switcher for a few years, both are phenomenal. I wish they offered like, an 8 port Scart switch, but what can ya do?! LOL!
@@r37r0dotcom8 Hi, I would like to purchase Shinybow Matrix Switcher soon for use with Playstations mostly. There is very little info about it online from retro consoler users. Have you encountered any problems while using it? Signal degradation, lost of signal ect ? Do you know any sourse of info where to look for such info ? Thanks in advance or your reply !
Hi Bob Thank you for your honest review. We want to give some inputs about your results. Video output difference: It is not meant that a customer needs to calibrate these pots. We will factory calibrate these pots. We will recheck our calibration process it seems that some device in the calibration process is not calibrated correctly, hence providing minor differences on the output. But just to repeat what you say: "Better be on the too low side than on the too high side". We will fix this issue for our next calibration it is not a mistake of the device itself. Audio problems: We have listed to your audio files and it is not only hearable with headphones. Actually, we can reproduce your problem with a genesis 1 console using the scart output. However, when using the headphone output on the genesis 1 console on volume 5 of 10, there is no issue. It sounds even more crisp than directly. When using level 10 of 10, we have the same issues again. Also from hearing your samples it is clear that the signal is clipping. So, we don't know the triple bypass and what it will do to audio, hence we admit that using too loud input audio is a problem with our switch and gives the results you recorded. We will test whether we can quick fix this anyway with a termination resistor for the next bench. But in our opinion a sega genesis is not the appropriate console for audio testing;-) Hum loops: Like descrbed above, the audio problems also have nothing to do with hum loops. As you already have said, we are using dc coupled outputs. Our description is a general description what can happen with dc coupled outputs, not that we admit that our device has general problems. We are just selling this additional ac coupling cable for persons who are having problems on the output because dc coupling is not good for them. We will definitely include your problems in this version and future versions of the Taxon Scart Switch. Thank you very much. Maybe you can add an update what we want to fix for the current version. We can also send you the switch again after fixing the problems in case you want to recheck. Thank you Christopher, Taxon Tools
As an owner of both G-Scart and G-Comp the biggest compliment I can give them is once you have everything setup you really don't have to think about them, Everything switches with perfect automation and the duel outputs is really nice when going to a CRT as well as a flat panel.
Please test 'Hydra2 REVISED'. I have gscartsw_lite and while it works great it's not perfectly compliant with the SCART standard. Also it's annoying that you can't use this switch with composite video.
@@RetroRGB fidde_se that makes RGB scart cables for PC Engine tested my gscart extensively since the cable I bought from him didn't work on gscart lite. He managed to make a new cable that did work and his conclusion was that gscart didn't follow the specs correctly. On some of his European RGB CRTs the picture was degraded significantly (dim picture) only when connected thru the gscart. This was 3 years ago now so I don't remember all details, but maybe fidde does.
*Update 09/17/20* - I received my Otaku Scart Switch on September 14th 2020. There was no notice that it was shipped or that the delivery was complete at all. It just showed up on my porch one day and I had no clue what was in the package with my name and a bunch of Chinese characters on it since I haven't made any orders from Chinese sites in months. *----------------* I ordered my Otaku Scart switch on March 20th 2020 and it still hasn't even been assembled. I emailed Otaku-Games about my order and they told me that they don't have any parts in their warehouse because everything is stuck in customs clearance. I understand that covid is causing issues for every business right now but I'm still incredibly disappointed because I received ZERO communications from the company until they replied to my email last week. I had to reach out just to get a single status update after waiting 3 months for a product that I have already paid for in full. On top of that their site to this day still says "1-2 weeks" for assembly and shipping of their switches. Only reason why I bought this is because my Bandibridge switch fried my Dreamcast's sound chip. It plays audio but only plays static noise for cd audio music.
I ordered mine on the 18th of February and I have the same problem you have. I've sent them emails over the months and the last reply i got was on 8th of June.
Glad I'm not the only one who's has this issue. They never responded to any of my messages though. I was simply asking what the status was. I'm not impressed with Otaku at all due to this and am going to dispute the charge on my card due to this nonsense. A simple explanation would have been nice.
One of the first things I said was I wanted to test all the switches out there, but couldn't. I meant no disrespect to them at all, I just don't have the time or money to test every switch out there.
@@RetroRGB I understood. In fact, I wrote more as a joke and to warn about the existence of the Brazilian SCART Switch made by Fabio Michelin and Eduardo Kenji from Games Care. Thank you so much for your answer! Your videos are very appreciated by many Brazilian fans of the best quality to play their games!
I tried a Hydra a few years ago and it was terrible. I'm not trying to insult your purchase, I'm just being honest. If you have the ability to run the tests I showed, give it a try...and also test voltage from the outputs even when there's no console powered on.
@@RetroRGB Did you do a review? I would be interested to see it. I know Lotherak has made some improvements with them in recent. Maybe worth getting a review unit to see how it stacks up now? I would be interested in seeing your opinion and your test results. I use a W hydra 2 in my set up currently and after a Modification because it was from an older batch it worked perfectly.
@@RetroRGB I can't test it like you can. But the picture is very good. The one who made the hydra told me, that I have the upgraded version and there may be updates in the future.
@@RetroRGB Before I had the Hydra, I had the system from Monster Cable, which was the best system of the SCART era. I think the picture of the hydra is just as good.
@@RaumfuerSpiele I heard there was a new version, but I never got a chance to test it. I DEFINITELY had the original version though, so hopefully all the issues were fixed.
Hey Bob! There's the GamesCare 8 in 2 out SCART Switch, it's made in Brazil with high quality components and it even presents a P2 audio extra output. Great review as usual!
Gscartw is still the gold standard in terms of both functionality and reliability, but the SCA101 is going to be one tough competitor with a couple additional slots, and the h and v shift controls which are handy to have.
I ordered the Otaku scart switch on 5/22. Hasn't shipped. Please be aware you may have to wait to receive it because there are Covid related significant delays. I e-mailed them and this is their response. "Due to the Covid 19 situation our supply chain was badly affected in the last couple of months. Our last shipment from the factory has been stuck in customs for over a month. We have manufactured two more batches though now and the first of these two will arrive on Monday which will clear about a third of open orders. The remaining orders will be cleared within roughly 2 weeks when we expect the other batch to arrive or earlier if we can finally manage to get the first shipment released. Sorry for these delays but we are trying our best."
Same here, like who knows how many more people. Been waiting since March. Either them, or the manufacturer, or both probably went bankrupt, their website's nuked by virus and social media unresponsive. Goodbye our money. Honestly I think retrorgb should update news because this isn't a safe recommendation anymore.
Man I'm thrilled about this video. I'm on a bit of a budget and I thought the $240 gscartsw was the only decent solution. That amount of cash for a scart switch is a hard pill to swallow, even if it is the Rolls Royce of scart switches.
imma get that sca101, its pretty much an end all be all for me, it removes all need for adapters etc. and has a lot of features that i need for my setup!
I use the SCA-101 as my main, and I also have the latest gscartsw and Retro Gaming Cables switches. Unlike 13:33 I am passing component over SCART just fine. But, I received it 2.5 years after this video was made.
Otaku's switch probably not an option anymore. I have been trying to acquire one of their switches since early this year, paid but never received anything more than BS email uipdates when asking for ETA. Now their website is even useless plagued with virus and they don't reply, social seems dead too, I think COVID claims another victim, and well I can probably kiss my money goodbye, 'thankfully' I had ordered only a single of the most basic model.
You didn't mention if the Otaku passes component over SCART as well. My plan is an all SCART setup to have a single switch so it would be nice to confirm thism
That's an excellent question. I always assumed it was just "bobby", but with one "B" dropped to look like Sony...but it could be the other way! I'll ask the person who made it for me...
Yeah I agree. They're a great manual switch. Simple, passive and just works perfectly. I've had four daisy chained together for years and can't complain at all. Although I'd imagine they're nigh on impossible to get nowadays.
I have one and it's been fine for me so far, new old stock was still available a year or two ago and they were only about £30, unfortunately used ones are now selling for anything up to £100, I wish I had bought two! I intended to get another then when I looked again they were up to silly money. It does only have 5 ports though. The 6-port Otaku switch mentioned here is only about £50, that's what I'll get next and it will suit average users fine I think.
They are awesome and work perfectly. I got the auto switching 3 input one for $12 from an eBay seller in Germany. Absolutely no reason to buy these expensive switches if all you need is a pass through signal.
Nice to see the SCA get coverage! I used it for a long time before upgrading to an all DB15 setup. The TTL output option is particularly useful for using an Extron RGB interface. BTW, you could have added a note in this video about the option of avoiding SCART altogether and using DB15 cables as an alternative, with plenty of cheap options for professional-grade VGA/DB15 switches from Extron and other manufacturers, from basic ones to auto+manual switching ones with conventional audio inputs (I'm a bit biased on preferring DB15 :p) Maybe material for a future video!
I am using a Kramer VGA witch for my Amigas. Are you using a VGA switch for consoles aswell? What kind of cables are you using? Any female scart to male vga cables?
These switches would be overkill for what I am looking for. Are there any powered scart splitters? Need 1 Scart input to 2 Scart output that of course wouldnt cause any problems especially about input lag. Does anyone know of any known products that would achieve this?
I have two 5 port Bandridge mechanical switches attached to one another with Velcro command strips. 9 inputs, 1 output. Works great for my needs. I haven't really noticed any issues which isn't to say they aren't there, just that they haven't bothered me if they are there. Plus they were $50 each which isn't too bad. Only thing is you have to take them apart and cut a trace or they leak power to other consoles.
If I'm torn between the SCA101 and gscartsw, which one would you go for and why? Does either of these have an edge, quality wise? Also, I need to know where to get a metal case for a gscartsw like that one. Does your friend do comissions?
Do you need to support both JP21 and SCART? Do you need a video distribution amp you can calibrate with your scope? If so, definitely get the SCA101. If you don't need those features, the gscartsw is most likely a better fit.
@@RetroRGB Hi, thanks for the response and all the effort you put in. I don't have any immediate plans for Japanese consoles, but I could always rewire the scart or find a converter, so that feature isn't a deal breaker for me. The variable sync level would have been handy for arcade tournaments/captures as I've run into issues before where the CPS2 output was split between 2 cabinets and a capture card, but it's so rare that I cap from that kind of situation these days that I don't particularly need that either. I was already leaning towards the gscartsw but I liked the idea of manual switches. I had a random issue with some scart switch before where the Wii being in standby caused issues (only a vague memory since this is like 15 years ago but it might have just been a passive hub kind of thing with no actual switching and the Wii was outputting some kind of signal in standby that made the image dark). Direct XRGB output might have been nice since I have that and an OSSC but it's probably not that big of a benefit to just using a coupler and the short XRGB cable I like the setup you have with the OSSC sitting on one of the ports and I can have the other port going to a CRT, so it's virtually no hassle to play any console on any display. I think I've answered my own question. The deciding factor is ultimately AV quality but I know the gscart has stood the test of time
Nice video :) I have one question though. Some old consoles have different standards for scart it seams. Like I get way to much blue color. Will these switches fix that?
If one of the (new) GSCARTSW inputs is using Component video via a custom cable, and the dual outputs are going to a PVM, and the XRGB Mini, would that cause issues for the XRGB Mini? I understand the RGB-input on the XRGB Mini won't read the Component video signal, but my concern is that pushing Component video to the XRGB Mini would break it/slowly kill it over time (as you'd know, just because it's not breaking something right away, doesn't mean it won't break one day as a result).
You mentioned PC engine sync... My PC Engine keeps dropping sync every like 30-60 seconds of gameplay. Any ideas on why it does this? I am using an OSSC via RGB hooked up to an HDMI tv
Hi RetroRGB, Please tell me where I can get a SCART Coupler (male to male like in your video)!? I have scoured the interweb and it looks like all that exists is female couplers. I desperately want to plug my OSSC directly into my new Gscartsw.
It's also very noticeable at 5:25 during the audio testing. Not great for a video quality comparison when the initial setup already shows major issues.
I had this kind of speckling with my OSSC, it was so bad I couldn't even use the thing higher than 3x. Turns out the solution was simple: swap out the HDMI cable for a new one. That fixed everything.
@blizzz, I gotta respectfully disagree. The video CLEARLY shows the analog interference in the blue areas exactly as I described. The speckles are probably a digital artifact like Skul said...which is weird, because I'm using a brand new cable that everyone was recommending.
It sucks, but just bite the bullet and get x2 gscartsw RGB switches. The total cost (if you can get one before they sell out) is about $500, but they really are the best.
I haven't got a scart switch. I didn't get a chance on getting one with the price so high. I just manually switch them. I hear scarts are fragile. But i am careful and haven't come across a problem yet. I use the sync usb cable thing with mine. Seems to make the colors nicer. I tried the one without the USB sync thing and notice a difference. I wanted to go component but IDK if sync thing works with that to. I was planning on getting the OSSC but didn't get a chance on getting it. Now that the OSSC pro is coming i may get that instead. I gotta see reviews. I really need something nice for the 480i/p consoles. Framemister isn't cutting it for those but looks nice for everything before the ps1. The Framemister with 480i/p looks alright thou, like how a nice tv would do it. If the HDMI connection isn't available then go with the FM. I hear some good things with 480i/480p with the OSSC but only does 2x, some people had problems thou so i read. Still looking forward to the OSSC pro device.
i use a cheap scart switch which i bought from german amazon. i don't notice any difference between plugging in directly and using the switch so i'm satisfied with it, it doesn't even require external power
Nothing harmful, as they all have isolation circuitry. That might mess with auto-switching and it's not good to leave multiple consoles on for extended periods...but if you just mean accidently power on two consoles, then turn one right off - No problem.
Check out the JS Technology "Active SCART Buffer V3". It's £50 and I have one; it's a proper distribution amplifier and touts no added lag and such, and while I don't have the equipment to do any technical testing, the picture on my CRT and through my OSSC looks just as crystal clear as plugged directly in. You can also get a version with a sync stripper included, which as well as cleaning sync into c-sync also allows conversion from sync-on-green to RGBS. Been using it for a couple of months now and I've not had to touch it once (besides changing the console plugged in...I'm waiting on that Otaku SCART to finally ship :P).
@@shanomacdaddy Yep yep. Been emailing them for updates. Production delays and now stuck in customs cus of this pandemic apparently. Ahh well. It'll get to us when it gets to us!
There is also the other way around with a scart splitter :) The only circuitboard seems to be from Shinybow as far as I know but rebranded as Ohmega in Europe and provides 8 outputs. It also seems to be quite rare. Apart from feeding to multiple monitors, I also found it useful to be able to feed the signal back to Framemeister with a scart to component coupler when I play back DVDs on PS2 as the signal changes to component with DVDs and my regular RGBs (through WHydra2) feed to FM becomes audio only. All of the new Scart products seem to be focused on Switches and there are no new ones providing more than 2 outputs I think.
I really wish someone would start selling a metal shell for the current gscart. The metal shell in the video looks so much better than any other case option available.
I am curious about the circuit used by the SCA101 for adjusting the horizontal and vertical position of the image... is it as simple as a phase shifter on the sync lines? Would it be possible to build it for myself? It seems like quite a simple thing to do...
Hey Bob, great vid as always, I must have missed the one where you talked about bandridge switches, just out of curiosity what was wrong with them, as they are what I currently use? I have modded them to remove the back voltage that fried my tg16 now though.
I have a question, I'm kind of a noob at this RGB stuff... I have 4 diff consoles with RGB cables, and I use them with OSSC. Saturn, PS1, and PS2 with SYNC ON LUMA, and Dreamcast PACKAPUNCH cable... Would the cheaper.. Otaku Switch work for all 4 of these? Does it matter what kind of cable I use for the RGB out?
When using the OSSC, sync types don't matter at all. Also, all sync types will pass through the Otaku Switch without any problem. So, basically, in your setup, there's nothing to worry about!
Excellent options Bob, how do you think that the Red Otaku 6-Port switch with built-in RGB to Component converter compares with the standard version with pass-trough only? Do you have the other one 6in3out otaku auto switch (the black one)? Is it worth?
What is needed for a screen to count as an rgb monitor? Is it just to have a scart input? Or does it have to a crt? Or does it has to be both? Or none of them only that it can in some way accept a rgb signal?
When I say "RGB Monitor", I'm usually referring to a professional video monitor that accepts RGB signals. There's plenty of other ways to use RGB though!
such a great video, thank you. where did you get this scart coupler?? i’ve wanted one for this exact purpose for a long time and i just cannot find one. it’s only been a year since i was looking into switchers and suddenly there’s an even newer gscart, and this 101 looks bonkers
Quick question bout the SCA101 concerning the non-xrgb 8-pin din output. I noticed that the diagram on the bottom of the switcher at 11:26 says the middle left pin outputs c-sync, but the SCA101 only outputs c-sync if the sync strip switch is on which, as you mentioned, outputs ttl levels of sync. Does that mean the 8-pin din is only usable when either that ttl c-syns is active or the original signal going into the SCA101 is c-sync? I'm asking because I'm not sure if I can use sync on composite or sync on luma through that 8-pin din and I'd rather not resort to getting multiple sync stripper cables for individual consoles or activating that ttl sync strip function and damaging equipment in the process.
I assume that diagram is just showing where to wire sync, but without the stripper turned on, it just passes the signal through. There's no need to use any sync stripper at all going into an OSSC< RetroTINK products, the Framemeister and most RGB Monitors though.
@@RetroRGB Ok, that clears up a lot of questions I had so thank you. Another machine that, unfortunately, only takes c-sync for RGB is the Extron Crosspoint. I have one but I'm apprehensive of putting RGB into it because I heard the Crosspoint also outputs sync voltage that's too high for consumer equipment. If you can give me any ideas on how to deal with that problem then that would be highly appreciated. My other idea was to build a custom adapter that I can plug into the 8-pin din of the SCA101 and mate it to a set of Genesis component cables either from HD Retrovision or RetroTink. I figure if HD Retrovision can do it for that many consoles then it should work in theory. A bit of a hard project though, I want to be sure the components I buy for the build are high quality so not to introduce any unnecessary interference or audio buzz.
I have a quick question about the otaku dose it output what you put in as I have some s-video singles that I send via SCART? and I notest you didn't mention Hydra SCART switcher is there any reason why?
Correct on the Otaku: Since it's a basic switch, it will pass whatever's sent. As long as the target device can accept S-Video over SCART, you're good to go. I had a bad experience with the Hydra. I hear they're better now though.
I have 12 consoles that I'm looking to connect that all use either RGB SCART or Component, and I really don't mind mechanical switches, so I'm thinking two of the cheaper Otaku switches ran into a single, regular old component switch and then into the OSSC is probably the easiest for me.
Axun makes a lot of REALLY cool-looking stuff, I believe they are the only person right now who offers pre-made female SCART to DE-15 ('VGA') cables (which I assume probably have LM1881s inside) with audio breakouts. For dat easy direct connection to Extron RGB interfaces! Curiously, I couldn't find it on their main website, but have seen it on their Taobao store. Not sure which one is more up-to-date and representative of their current product line...
@@axunworks9946 Ahh, yes, I assumed the independent site was newer. The site looks good! I am definitely interested in getting one of your cables soon - they all look very nice :)
Thanks a lot that helped big time. Just started considering buying one and I think I’ll go for a gscart. Do you think I should wait for the next version release ?!
Oh dear I also just purchased a kabledirect scart and plan to use them with the universal Nintendo multi out scart and wii scart, is that a bad thing? This one is the enclosure one. So that can be worrying that I could be making a bad order
If you have any SCART cables with sync strippers in them, or if you're connecting two switches, I would cancel your order. If you just have basic SCART cables, you should be fine...but there's no guarantee.
@@RetroRGB already cancelled it just to be safe since I could end up using a cable not knowing it has sync stripping or have a bad cable to use. I thought this would be a decent option since it allows 2 scart outputs and auto switching
I only tested the original Hydra, which had a bunch of problems. I heard there's a newer version out, but I don't know anything about it....I avoided those after my experience with the original. Agreed that while expensive, the gscart really is the easiest choice for most people.
What are your opinions on the Extron video switchers? I have three and I like them, but I think that these machines could use some more detailed info for others to learn about them.
That SCA101 looks amazing! Did it just came out recently? I had a look on its page and one of the notable things I've seen is the option to use a direct cable to BNC/RCA connectors which would immensely help the short distance issue I have with my gscart lite since the output connector to my PVM from retro cables is really short. I had a look at shumps again and Super G is unfortunately not repairing gscart lites anymore which is a bummer. Mine is still working at the moment but if one day it goes out I might considering picking the 101 up since I would like to go back using a manual switcher.
Will you be doing a video on component switchers? I'm debating on getting a Extron Crosspoint switcher with bnc to rca caps added to the ports for my HD Retrovision cables.
The phase was set on all captures, those are digital artifacts - I just randomly started getting those again on my Datapath Vision E2S. The analog interference in the blue area wasn't affected by the speckles, but it's really annoying that I couldn't get rid of them ;/ I ordered a new E1S, just to help troubleshoot.
Do you do all your testing on a flat screen? Would like to see how this gear looks on a crt, same principles apply I’m sure .. interference or no interference
If anything these should all look even better on a CRT, particularly the Taxon one, as CRTs tend to mask a lot of interference noise, especially consumer ones. These don't do any changing of the signal, so it shouldn't look any worse.
For these tests, I felt digital captures were the best way to demonstrate the noise. Sometimes I take video of a CRT / flat panel with my camera though. It all depends on what I'm trying to highlight.
I think I'm just going to build my own at this point. I'm up to where I need something like 30 goddamn ports and even with my stacked daisychained switches it's getting out of hand.
Yeah, I think there's a few revisions of each as well. I think there was one that was fine with no mods, one that required you to cut a trace and another that couldn't be fixed. Everyone I've spoke to who said they have the good ones are very happy with it though!
Thanks for putting this out! I use a shinybow scart Matrix switch, but I may upgrade to a g scart eventually , so it's good to know that it's still stands up. However, You got to stop teasing us with this coupler man! That's a solution I've been looking for for a while, and I'm checking the website every day for an update!
LOL, sorry! I'll post about the coupler as soon as it's ready! Also, I used to own the Shinybow and it's awesome if you need a matrix switch. No extra gaming-related features though.
@@RetroRGB haha, it's fine, I just have to eliminate 2 long cable runs for space and clutter and I'm getting the sweats every time I see it. Yeah, I enjoy my shiny bow I needed the two simultaneous output functions because I'm trying to get a streaming setup going and it works great so far.
@@tsuran3848 Hi, I would like to purchase Shinybow Matrix Switcher soon for use with Playstations mostly. There is very little info about it online from retro consoler users. Have you encountered any problems while using it? Signal degradation, lost of signal ect ? Do you know any sourse of info where to look for such info ? Thanks in advance or your reply !
RUclips does it automatically. I can turn them off if it's that annoying...was is an add that just popped up on your browser, or one that interrupted the entire video?
@@RetroRGB Apologies for the late reply, the ads Interrupted the video (as an aside, I don't think the overlaid ones are intrusive to be fair) but as I said, if it helps you monetise your content, so be it.
That's a totally fair question. The truth is that to add all these features in a way that retains the original quality requires very expensive parts, quality manufacturing and through testing. The lack of features on the Otaku is why it's so cheap, as it doesn't require anything other than the main components.
At some point, yes...but I'm so backlogged, that'll be months away. I'm cool with someone beating me to it though! Just use the same (or better) test methods that I did :)
Phonedork was kind enough to remind us that users of the original gscartsw can also pass component video and RGBsB by using the port closest to the outputs. This won't work on the "lite" edition, but as he shows in the video, it's a great solution for the original gscartsw. The latest model will work through all the ports, not just that one: ruclips.net/video/NZoRlhSqzWg/видео.html
We have some updates for our switch:
Calibration of the RGB and video levels: We bought a Rigol osilloscope and have noticed that we made a human error calibrating our switches. We have fixed that and now we are in the range of +- 5 Millivolts for each level. We also use potentiometers which are easier to callibrate.
Audio buzz: There was a clipping of the audio above some levels. We could make a small change to our circuit to support higher levels. The buzz is now gone for the Sega Genesis headphone jack on max volume (was not before the update).
Switching speed: We made the switching a bit slower so there is no Automatic switching while you are selecting another channel with the knob.
Video noise: We could not make an improvement without some price increase, but there is a "low noise upgrade" available now for our switch which reduces all the noise noticed during the tests. It is available for CHF 20 surcharge.
3D Print quality: The housing was not printed with a dry box. This was visible. All new housings are printed using a dry box so the whole housing has the same print quality.
Sync stripper: Was not available during the tests, but now it is available as an additional pure sync adaptor. It can be done that the switch powers the sync stripper over an unused scart line so no other signals are affected. The cable is also available with a USB connection for universal usage.
Second scart socket for upscaler: If someone needs a second scart output for an upscaler, we have created a special adaptor cable to use the second output of our switch for it.
Even though I know you don't rate the 5 port manual Bandridge switch much it would have been nice to see it in the comparisons, as they are still changing hands 2nd hand at ludicrously high prices (for a basic switch) and if people could see if they are worth those prices it would be good.
I have a 5-port manual Bandridge, I got mine for £25 in box but I’m not sure if it was used or not. It looks great, I get no noticeable video quality loss or any interference and it’s been serving my retro setup well for 3 or 4 years now. I was warned before I brought it that they sometimes have issues with certain cables in certain sockets, or have voltage leakage where the Mega Drive power light may come on due to another console being turned on, but for the first two years I had none of these issues. In the last year though I have had slight issues, once or twice I had a console fail to work until I changed the slot, and my mega drive power light sometimes turns on if I have the SNES enabled in certain slots, but it’s never caused any serious issues.
My only real complaint has been that it doesn’t have that many ports, 5 is fine for now for my setup, but if I want to expand the setup at all I can’t do it without a second switcher, and daisychaining them might cause interference. I hope the prices haven’t become really ridiculous as I’m looking into buying another one soon. I wonder why Bob dislikes them so badly, I understand worry about the voltage leaking and occasional console incompatibilities but I’ve found they are never a serious issue, right now I have Mega Drive in AV4 and SNES in AV5, and I’m having no issues at all, and I can’t see any extra interference.
Thank you for this good review but i miss the Hydra2 by Lotharek. :/
I'm planning to buy one so i was curious to see it in your comprison.
Thanks so very much for all this hard work. You are really a huge contributor to the whole retro community. I could write a page long of all the things you did right in this video!
I really like the gscartsw as well. And initially I really did not like the huge price, but once I got it, I was like: "100% worth it!" I use both outputs. The only feauture I wish it had was somehow detect composite. But it does not. Small issue, but wuld be convenient for testing composite equipment like clone/tv game systems.
I use the Shinybow for the professional build quality and all-metal commercial enclosure. Not a fan of the "garage project" look of the other ones.
Same. Love my shiny bow
I LOVED my Shinybow...until I discovered my reciever didn't support 480p natively, nor upconvertion a no go. I cried retiring her. 480i was the best I was gonna get from my majestic scart to component Shinybow. 😳😳😳💔💔💔😔😔😔
I've had a 4 port Shinybow Scart and Component switcher for a few years, both are phenomenal. I wish they offered like, an 8 port Scart switch, but what can ya do?! LOL!
I have a Shinybow as well. It does indeed have a nice build quality. I use the matrix switch to send the signal to my capture card and OSSC.
@@r37r0dotcom8 Hi, I would like to purchase Shinybow Matrix Switcher soon for use with Playstations mostly. There is very little info about it online from retro consoler users. Have you encountered any problems while using it? Signal degradation, lost of signal ect ? Do you know any sourse of info where to look for such info ? Thanks in advance or your reply !
You weren't able to test the Hydra by Lotharek!
Thanks for this!
Kinda wish the Shinybow was included in this since that's what I use, but I'm not sure if you had one to compare with.
Hi Bob
Thank you for your honest review.
We want to give some inputs about your results.
Video output difference:
It is not meant that a customer needs to calibrate these pots. We will factory calibrate these pots. We will recheck our calibration process it seems that some device in the calibration process is not calibrated correctly, hence providing minor differences on the output. But just to repeat what you say: "Better be on the too low side than on the too high side". We will fix this issue for our next calibration it is not a mistake of the device itself.
Audio problems:
We have listed to your audio files and it is not only hearable with headphones. Actually, we can reproduce your problem with a genesis 1 console using the scart output. However, when using the headphone output on the genesis 1 console on volume 5 of 10, there is no issue. It sounds even more crisp than directly. When using level 10 of 10, we have the same issues again. Also from hearing your samples it is clear that the signal is clipping. So, we don't know the triple bypass and what it will do to audio, hence we admit that using too loud input audio is a problem with our switch and gives the results you recorded. We will test whether we can quick fix this anyway with a termination resistor for the next bench. But in our opinion a sega genesis is not the appropriate console for audio testing;-)
Hum loops:
Like descrbed above, the audio problems also have nothing to do with hum loops. As you already have said, we are using dc coupled outputs. Our description is a general description what can happen with dc coupled outputs, not that we admit that our device has general problems. We are just selling this additional ac coupling cable for persons who are having problems on the output because dc coupling is not good for them.
We will definitely include your problems in this version and future versions of the Taxon Scart Switch. Thank you very much. Maybe you can add an update what we want to fix for the current version. We can also send you the switch again after fixing the problems in case you want to recheck.
Thank you
Christopher, Taxon Tools
I really appreciate the detailed response and I'm happy to cover all updates to your product in our news posts.
@@RetroRGB Could you please contact us using our contact form on our website so we can provide you the latest updates directly once we are done?
As an owner of both G-Scart and G-Comp the biggest compliment I can give them is once you have everything setup you really don't have to think about them, Everything switches with perfect automation and the duel outputs is really nice when going to a CRT as well as a flat panel.
Yeah, that's the key to a good product like that: If it's done its job right, you're supposed to forget it's even there.
Please test 'Hydra2 REVISED'.
I have gscartsw_lite and while it works great it's not perfectly compliant with the SCART standard. Also it's annoying that you can't use this switch with composite video.
The gscartsw_lite is absolutely compliant with the SCART standards. Not sure where you're getting this misinformation.
@@RetroRGB fidde_se that makes RGB scart cables for PC Engine tested my gscart extensively since the cable I bought from him didn't work on gscart lite. He managed to make a new cable that did work and his conclusion was that gscart didn't follow the specs correctly.
On some of his European RGB CRTs the picture was degraded significantly (dim picture) only when connected thru the gscart.
This was 3 years ago now so I don't remember all details, but maybe fidde does.
*Update 09/17/20* - I received my Otaku Scart Switch on September 14th 2020. There was no notice that it was shipped or that the delivery was complete at all. It just showed up on my porch one day and I had no clue what was in the package with my name and a bunch of Chinese characters on it since I haven't made any orders from Chinese sites in months.
*----------------*
I ordered my Otaku Scart switch on March 20th 2020 and it still hasn't even been assembled. I emailed Otaku-Games about my order and they told me that they don't have any parts in their warehouse because everything is stuck in customs clearance.
I understand that covid is causing issues for every business right now but I'm still incredibly disappointed because I received ZERO communications from the company until they replied to my email last week. I had to reach out just to get a single status update after waiting 3 months for a product that I have already paid for in full. On top of that their site to this day still says "1-2 weeks" for assembly and shipping of their switches.
Only reason why I bought this is because my Bandibridge switch fried my Dreamcast's sound chip. It plays audio but only plays static noise for cd audio music.
I ordered mine on the 18th of February and I have the same problem you have. I've sent them emails over the months and the last reply i got was on 8th of June.
Waiting on one too, at least they replied to my message fairly quick. Could be a while
You guys get any updates yet?
Glad I'm not the only one who's has this issue. They never responded to any of my messages though. I was simply asking what the status was. I'm not impressed with Otaku at all due to this and am going to dispute the charge on my card due to this nonsense. A simple explanation would have been nice.
@@LostAurusStudios I think I'll do the same tomorrow.
Hello, Bob. Games Care's Brazilian SCART Switch was missing from your list!
One of the first things I said was I wanted to test all the switches out there, but couldn't. I meant no disrespect to them at all, I just don't have the time or money to test every switch out there.
@@RetroRGB I understood. In fact, I wrote more as a joke and to warn about the existence of the Brazilian SCART Switch made by Fabio Michelin and Eduardo Kenji from Games Care. Thank you so much for your answer! Your videos are very appreciated by many Brazilian fans of the best quality to play their games!
Your SCART systems are not enough for me.
I use the HYDRA. Here I can use 16 SCART devices. A very nice piece of hardware.
I tried a Hydra a few years ago and it was terrible. I'm not trying to insult your purchase, I'm just being honest. If you have the ability to run the tests I showed, give it a try...and also test voltage from the outputs even when there's no console powered on.
@@RetroRGB Did you do a review? I would be interested to see it. I know Lotherak has made some improvements with them in recent. Maybe worth getting a review unit to see how it stacks up now? I would be interested in seeing your opinion and your test results. I use a W hydra 2 in my set up currently and after a Modification because it was from an older batch it worked perfectly.
@@RetroRGB I can't test it like you can. But the picture is very good. The one who made the hydra told me, that I have the upgraded version and there may be updates in the future.
@@RetroRGB Before I had the Hydra, I had the system from Monster Cable, which was the best system of the SCART era. I think the picture of the hydra is just as good.
@@RaumfuerSpiele I heard there was a new version, but I never got a chance to test it. I DEFINITELY had the original version though, so hopefully all the issues were fixed.
Hey Bob! There's the GamesCare 8 in 2 out SCART Switch, it's made in Brazil with high quality components and it even presents a P2 audio extra output. Great review as usual!
Yeah, I've been following that product and it looks awesome! I wish I had one to test. Maybe some day I'll make a part 2?
Bob next year we will meet here, and it will be an honor to have our products tested by you. continue this incredible work
I'm really looking forward to it!
Awesome video. I have the Hydra mini scart switcher.
Gscartw is still the gold standard in terms of both functionality and reliability, but the SCA101 is going to be one tough competitor with a couple additional slots, and the h and v shift controls which are handy to have.
I ordered the Otaku scart switch on 5/22. Hasn't shipped. Please be aware you may have to wait to receive it because there are Covid related significant delays. I e-mailed them and this is their response. "Due to the Covid 19 situation our supply chain was badly affected in the last couple of months. Our last shipment from the factory has been stuck in customs for over a month. We have manufactured two more batches though now and the first of these two will arrive on Monday which will clear about a third of open orders. The remaining orders will be cleared within roughly 2 weeks when we expect the other batch to arrive or earlier if we can finally manage to get the first shipment released. Sorry for these delays but we are trying our best."
Same here, like who knows how many more people. Been waiting since March. Either them, or the manufacturer, or both probably went bankrupt, their website's nuked by virus and social media unresponsive. Goodbye our money. Honestly I think retrorgb should update news because this isn't a safe recommendation anymore.
@@vanguardcat Ordered mine in February and they still have not shipped. You guys get any updates yet?
All hail Hydra
Man I'm thrilled about this video. I'm on a bit of a budget and I thought the $240 gscartsw was the only decent solution. That amount of cash for a scart switch is a hard pill to swallow, even if it is the Rolls Royce of scart switches.
imma get that sca101, its pretty much an end all be all for me, it removes all need for adapters etc. and has a lot of features that i need for my setup!
any switchers with simultaneous dual output that i can buy right now in 2022? the gscart and the taxon aren't in stock anymore
The part shortage is brutal. Stock should be coming soon though!
I use the SCA-101 as my main, and I also have the latest gscartsw and Retro Gaming Cables switches. Unlike 13:33 I am passing component over SCART just fine. But, I received it 2.5 years after this video was made.
Otaku's switch probably not an option anymore. I have been trying to acquire one of their switches since early this year, paid but never received anything more than BS email uipdates when asking for ETA. Now their website is even useless plagued with virus and they don't reply, social seems dead too, I think COVID claims another victim, and well I can probably kiss my money goodbye, 'thankfully' I had ordered only a single of the most basic model.
This is EXACTLY the video I need right now, because I am up to 9 consoles, but only have a bandridge 5 scart switch :[
You didn't mention if the Otaku passes component over SCART as well. My plan is an all SCART setup to have a single switch so it would be nice to confirm thism
Would anyone recommend the Shinybow SB-5520? And does it allow for 2 simultaneous outputs?
hi bob you know when the tv shows up in your intro and it's BOBY is it b-oh-bee (like SONY) or is it bobby? thanks love your videos
That's an excellent question. I always assumed it was just "bobby", but with one "B" dropped to look like Sony...but it could be the other way! I'll ask the person who made it for me...
I have both bandridge and Otaku. Both are great but the Otaku can be mounted if needed. I mounted mine into my TV stand
"Sir back and let's start nerding."
You, sir, understand why I am here.
I'm still happy with the two Bandridge switches I've got.
I have the manual switch and it worked just fine. I kept it as a backup in case the gscart stops working.
Yeah I agree. They're a great manual switch. Simple, passive and just works perfectly. I've had four daisy chained together for years and can't complain at all. Although I'd imagine they're nigh on impossible to get nowadays.
yeah, good luck getting one...
I have one and it's been fine for me so far, new old stock was still available a year or two ago and they were only about £30, unfortunately used ones are now selling for anything up to £100, I wish I had bought two! I intended to get another then when I looked again they were up to silly money. It does only have 5 ports though. The 6-port Otaku switch mentioned here is only about £50, that's what I'll get next and it will suit average users fine I think.
They are awesome and work perfectly. I got the auto switching 3 input one for $12 from an eBay seller in Germany. Absolutely no reason to buy these expensive switches if all you need is a pass through signal.
Nice to see the SCA get coverage! I used it for a long time before upgrading to an all DB15 setup. The TTL output option is particularly useful for using an Extron RGB interface. BTW, you could have added a note in this video about the option of avoiding SCART altogether and using DB15 cables as an alternative, with plenty of cheap options for professional-grade VGA/DB15 switches from Extron and other manufacturers, from basic ones to auto+manual switching ones with conventional audio inputs (I'm a bit biased on preferring DB15 :p) Maybe material for a future video!
I am using a Kramer VGA witch for my Amigas. Are you using a VGA switch for consoles aswell? What kind of cables are you using? Any female scart to male vga cables?
These switches would be overkill for what I am looking for. Are there any powered scart splitters? Need 1 Scart input to 2 Scart output that of course wouldnt cause any problems especially about input lag. Does anyone know of any known products that would achieve this?
You could try cheaper powered splitters and make custom SCART cables. No lag would be added with basic splitters, only ones with buffers.
Where can i get this scart connector to put the OSSC on a scart switch directly?
It'll be out soon - Was delayed because of everything going on. I'll post about it the moment it's available.
I am looking foward to get this device :-)
I have two 5 port Bandridge mechanical switches attached to one another with Velcro command strips. 9 inputs, 1 output. Works great for my needs. I haven't really noticed any issues which isn't to say they aren't there, just that they haven't bothered me if they are there. Plus they were $50 each which isn't too bad. Only thing is you have to take them apart and cut a trace or they leak power to other consoles.
If I'm torn between the SCA101 and gscartsw, which one would you go for and why? Does either of these have an edge, quality wise?
Also, I need to know where to get a metal case for a gscartsw like that one. Does your friend do comissions?
Do you need to support both JP21 and SCART? Do you need a video distribution amp you can calibrate with your scope? If so, definitely get the SCA101. If you don't need those features, the gscartsw is most likely a better fit.
@@RetroRGB Hi, thanks for the response and all the effort you put in. I don't have any immediate plans for Japanese consoles, but I could always rewire the scart or find a converter, so that feature isn't a deal breaker for me. The variable sync level would have been handy for arcade tournaments/captures as I've run into issues before where the CPS2 output was split between 2 cabinets and a capture card, but it's so rare that I cap from that kind of situation these days that I don't particularly need that either.
I was already leaning towards the gscartsw but I liked the idea of manual switches. I had a random issue with some scart switch before where the Wii being in standby caused issues (only a vague memory since this is like 15 years ago but it might have just been a passive hub kind of thing with no actual switching and the Wii was outputting some kind of signal in standby that made the image dark). Direct XRGB output might have been nice since I have that and an OSSC but it's probably not that big of a benefit to just using a coupler and the short XRGB cable
I like the setup you have with the OSSC sitting on one of the ports and I can have the other port going to a CRT, so it's virtually no hassle to play any console on any display.
I think I've answered my own question. The deciding factor is ultimately AV quality but I know the gscart has stood the test of time
I finally got a Taxon Switch so the Scart output I plugged to my compatible CRT TV and the RCA's goes to the XRGB Mini
Nice video :) I have one question though. Some old consoles have different standards for scart it seams. Like I get way to much blue color. Will these switches fix that?
If one of the (new) GSCARTSW inputs is using Component video via a custom cable, and the dual outputs are going to a PVM, and the XRGB Mini, would that cause issues for the XRGB Mini? I understand the RGB-input on the XRGB Mini won't read the Component video signal, but my concern is that pushing Component video to the XRGB Mini would break it/slowly kill it over time (as you'd know, just because it's not breaking something right away, doesn't mean it won't break one day as a result).
You mentioned PC engine sync... My PC Engine keeps dropping sync every like 30-60 seconds of gameplay. Any ideas on why it does this? I am using an OSSC via RGB hooked up to an HDMI tv
Hi RetroRGB,
Please tell me where I can get a SCART Coupler (male to male like in your video)!? I have scoured the interweb and it looks like all that exists is female couplers. I desperately want to plug my OSSC directly into my new Gscartsw.
It should be out any day now. Not sure why it wasn't released a month ago...it was already tested and verified.
@@RetroRGB any chance I can find out who is making them and pre-order one?
If you were going to use both outputs on the SCA and could measure with an oscilloscope what voltage output would you aim for?
Around 700mV for RGB - Lower is fine, but anything over 714mV will start to wash out the image. For sync, between 250mV and 1v is fine.
@@RetroRGB Thank you!
I love my Otaku switch.
3:17 - 3:42
I did notice some speckling interference in the text when zoomed up close, but not with other switchers.
The hill from the farthest right, under the score counter, also had speckling.
The specking was also on the direct captures, so something might be up with my OSSC.
It's also very noticeable at 5:25 during the audio testing. Not great for a video quality comparison when the initial setup already shows major issues.
I had this kind of speckling with my OSSC, it was so bad I couldn't even use the thing higher than 3x. Turns out the solution was simple: swap out the HDMI cable for a new one. That fixed everything.
@blizzz, I gotta respectfully disagree. The video CLEARLY shows the analog interference in the blue areas exactly as I described. The speckles are probably a digital artifact like Skul said...which is weird, because I'm using a brand new cable that everyone was recommending.
It sucks, but just bite the bullet and get x2 gscartsw RGB switches. The total cost (if you can get one before they sell out) is about $500, but they really are the best.
I haven't got a scart switch. I didn't get a chance on getting one with the price so high. I just manually switch them. I hear scarts are fragile. But i am careful and haven't come across a problem yet.
I use the sync usb cable thing with mine. Seems to make the colors nicer. I tried the one without the USB sync thing and notice a difference.
I wanted to go component but IDK if sync thing works with that to. I was planning on getting the OSSC but didn't get a chance on getting it. Now that the OSSC pro is coming i may get that instead. I gotta see reviews. I really need something nice for the 480i/p consoles. Framemister isn't cutting it for those but looks nice for everything before the ps1. The Framemister with 480i/p looks alright thou, like how a nice tv would do it. If the HDMI connection isn't available then go with the FM. I hear some good things with 480i/480p with the OSSC but only does 2x, some people had problems thou so i read. Still looking forward to the OSSC pro device.
I have the hydra myself, its awesome
The Hydra I tested years ago was pretty bad. I heard newer revisions are good though.
@@RetroRGB I have the newest one, not had any issues at all
Very useful video, thank you!
The best switch is the Nintendo switch.
cool thanks!
i use a cheap scart switch which i bought from german amazon. i don't notice any difference between plugging in directly and using the switch so i'm satisfied with it, it doesn't even require external power
I know this is an old video. But for these switches what happens when I accidentally turn-on multiple consoles at the same time?
Nothing harmful, as they all have isolation circuitry. That might mess with auto-switching and it's not good to leave multiple consoles on for extended periods...but if you just mean accidently power on two consoles, then turn one right off - No problem.
@@RetroRGB Thanks! I am in the middle of planning a setup for my TV with one RetroTINK and one of these switches!
I’m still searching for a Scart splitter which doesn’t break the bank
Use a powered VGA splitter and wire your own SCART adapter?
Check out the JS Technology "Active SCART Buffer V3". It's £50 and I have one; it's a proper distribution amplifier and touts no added lag and such, and while I don't have the equipment to do any technical testing, the picture on my CRT and through my OSSC looks just as crystal clear as plugged directly in. You can also get a version with a sync stripper included, which as well as cleaning sync into c-sync also allows conversion from sync-on-green to RGBS. Been using it for a couple of months now and I've not had to touch it once (besides changing the console plugged in...I'm waiting on that Otaku SCART to finally ship :P).
@@tehFoxx0rz Might be waiting a while as I've been waiting since February for my Otaku Switch to ship.
@@shanomacdaddy Yep yep. Been emailing them for updates. Production delays and now stuck in customs cus of this pandemic apparently. Ahh well. It'll get to us when it gets to us!
shano im also waiting since February! Covid wrecked the 2 weeks estimate 😆
There is also the other way around with a scart splitter :) The only circuitboard seems to be from Shinybow as far as I know but rebranded as Ohmega in Europe and provides 8 outputs. It also seems to be quite rare. Apart from feeding to multiple monitors, I also found it useful to be able to feed the signal back to Framemeister with a scart to component coupler when I play back DVDs on PS2 as the signal changes to component with DVDs and my regular RGBs (through WHydra2) feed to FM becomes audio only. All of the new Scart products seem to be focused on Switches and there are no new ones providing more than 2 outputs I think.
I really wish someone would start selling a metal shell for the current gscart. The metal shell in the video looks so much better than any other case option available.
I am curious about the circuit used by the SCA101 for adjusting the horizontal and vertical position of the image... is it as simple as a phase shifter on the sync lines? Would it be possible to build it for myself? It seems like quite a simple thing to do...
why did you only try really expensive ones?
I tried what was available to me at the moment. And I also included the CHEAPST switch worth talking about.
Cool video. Was hoping to see Tim Worthington's SCARTMUX switcher as well, but that was just released.
Has anyone tried the gscartsw in conjunction with the retrotink?
All the time. Works perfect
@@RetroRGB Thank you!
I love that custom metal case!
Hey Bob, great vid as always, I must have missed the one where you talked about bandridge switches, just out of curiosity what was wrong with them, as they are what I currently use? I have modded them to remove the back voltage that fried my tg16 now though.
I have a question, I'm kind of a noob at this RGB stuff... I have 4 diff consoles with RGB cables, and I use them with OSSC. Saturn, PS1, and PS2 with SYNC ON LUMA, and Dreamcast PACKAPUNCH cable... Would the cheaper.. Otaku Switch work for all 4 of these? Does it matter what kind of cable I use for the RGB out?
When using the OSSC, sync types don't matter at all. Also, all sync types will pass through the Otaku Switch without any problem. So, basically, in your setup, there's nothing to worry about!
@@RetroRGB ok awesome, thanks for the quick reply! :)
@@RetroRGB have you tested their automatic switcher at all? I was thinking of grabbing that one instead
Yeah, don't buy it. The manual one is awesome though! www.retrorgb.com/otaku-6in3out-amplified-auto-scart-switch-review.html
@@RetroRGB ahh ok, gotcha! thanks!! Ill go for the manual.
Excellent options Bob, how do you think that the Red Otaku 6-Port switch with built-in RGB to Component converter compares with the standard version with pass-trough only? Do you have the other one 6in3out otaku auto switch (the black one)? Is it worth?
I've never tried the one with built-in RGB to component conversion. Sorry!
GScart should switch out their cases for the metal case your friend made. Looks legit. Great review, thanks
I used the Otaku switch. Worked for a bout a year flawlessly, then suddenly died..
What is needed for a screen to count as an rgb monitor?
Is it just to have a scart input? Or does it have to a crt? Or does it has to be both? Or none of them only that it can in some way accept a rgb signal?
When I say "RGB Monitor", I'm usually referring to a professional video monitor that accepts RGB signals. There's plenty of other ways to use RGB though!
such a great video, thank you. where did you get this scart coupler?? i’ve wanted one for this exact purpose for a long time and i just cannot find one.
it’s only been a year since i was looking into switchers and suddenly there’s an even newer gscart, and this 101 looks bonkers
The SCART coupler is coming soon. It would have been out already if all the craziness didn't happen ;/
RetroRGB well that’s jolly exciting. down with the unpleasantness!
Quick question bout the SCA101 concerning the non-xrgb 8-pin din output. I noticed that the diagram on the bottom of the switcher at 11:26 says the middle left pin outputs c-sync, but the SCA101 only outputs c-sync if the sync strip switch is on which, as you mentioned, outputs ttl levels of sync. Does that mean the 8-pin din is only usable when either that ttl c-syns is active or the original signal going into the SCA101 is c-sync? I'm asking because I'm not sure if I can use sync on composite or sync on luma through that 8-pin din and I'd rather not resort to getting multiple sync stripper cables for individual consoles or activating that ttl sync strip function and damaging equipment in the process.
I assume that diagram is just showing where to wire sync, but without the stripper turned on, it just passes the signal through. There's no need to use any sync stripper at all going into an OSSC< RetroTINK products, the Framemeister and most RGB Monitors though.
@@RetroRGB Ok, that clears up a lot of questions I had so thank you. Another machine that, unfortunately, only takes c-sync for RGB is the Extron Crosspoint. I have one but I'm apprehensive of putting RGB into it because I heard the Crosspoint also outputs sync voltage that's too high for consumer equipment. If you can give me any ideas on how to deal with that problem then that would be highly appreciated.
My other idea was to build a custom adapter that I can plug into the 8-pin din of the SCA101 and mate it to a set of Genesis component cables either from HD Retrovision or RetroTink. I figure if HD Retrovision can do it for that many consoles then it should work in theory. A bit of a hard project though, I want to be sure the components I buy for the build are high quality so not to introduce any unnecessary interference or audio buzz.
I have a quick question about the otaku dose it output what you put in as I have some s-video singles that I send via SCART?
and I notest you didn't mention Hydra SCART switcher is there any reason why?
Correct on the Otaku: Since it's a basic switch, it will pass whatever's sent. As long as the target device can accept S-Video over SCART, you're good to go.
I had a bad experience with the Hydra. I hear they're better now though.
Great were the Times when you could buy a manual Bandridge Switch for 7€.
Where did you get the scart coupler you used to connect the OSSC to the scart switch output please?
That's coming soon. It should have been out already, but was delayed cause of everything going on.
I have 12 consoles that I'm looking to connect that all use either RGB SCART or Component, and I really don't mind mechanical switches, so I'm thinking two of the cheaper Otaku switches ran into a single, regular old component switch and then into the OSSC is probably the easiest for me.
That'll work. Using an Extron Crosspoint should also work as well.
@@RetroRGB Hadn't heard of one of those until now, but man that thing looks like a huge beast. I might just have to go with it!
Axun makes a lot of REALLY cool-looking stuff, I believe they are the only person right now who offers pre-made female SCART to DE-15 ('VGA') cables (which I assume probably have LM1881s inside) with audio breakouts. For dat easy direct connection to Extron RGB interfaces! Curiously, I couldn't find it on their main website, but have seen it on their Taobao store. Not sure which one is more up-to-date and representative of their current product line...
Sorry, the independent site has just been built, because it is busy, so it has not been updated on the website for the time being.
@@axunworks9946 Ahh, yes, I assumed the independent site was newer. The site looks good! I am definitely interested in getting one of your cables soon - they all look very nice :)
@@MikeLindquist Thank you, you are welcome to communicate and hope to get more valuable suggestions and opinions.
Should I upgrade my VGA output GSCARTW for the SCA?
My opinion: If your current gscartsw is working for you, there's no need to upgrade unless you specifically need a new feature.
@@RetroRGB awesome thanks Bob!
Thanks a lot that helped big time. Just started considering buying one and I think I’ll go for a gscart. Do you think I should wait for the next version release ?!
Glad the video helped! No need, this revision is awesome.
where can I pick up that RCA Component to SCART adapter?
retro-access.com/ You might need to use their custom cable builder.
I really want that SCART coupler.
I recently purchased a 6 in 3 out that can simultaneously output also by Otaku
www.retrorgb.com/otaku-6in3out-amplified-auto-scart-switch-review.html
Oh dear I also just purchased a kabledirect scart and plan to use them with the universal Nintendo multi out scart and wii scart, is that a bad thing? This one is the enclosure one. So that can be worrying that I could be making a bad order
@@RetroRGB can you help me out here should I cancel my order since it could destroy my equipment? Sorry for rambling here
If you have any SCART cables with sync strippers in them, or if you're connecting two switches, I would cancel your order. If you just have basic SCART cables, you should be fine...but there's no guarantee.
@@RetroRGB already cancelled it just to be safe since I could end up using a cable not knowing it has sync stripping or have a bad cable to use. I thought this would be a decent option since it allows 2 scart outputs and auto switching
I had an original Hydra before but then upgraded to a two output GScart. For the average person the GScart is all you need.
I only tested the original Hydra, which had a bunch of problems. I heard there's a newer version out, but I don't know anything about it....I avoided those after my experience with the original. Agreed that while expensive, the gscart really is the easiest choice for most people.
What are your opinions on the Extron video switchers? I have three and I like them, but I think that these machines could use some more detailed info for others to learn about them.
I like them and hope to cover them in an eventual component video switch comparison.
@@RetroRGB That sounds great! Looking forward to that one and whatever else comes in-between. :)
Fantastic work! Could you please do a similar review for composite? I know that MLIG did a video a while back but I'd just like to see an updated list
composite is the worst. usually people mod their consoles to avoid anything composite
That SCA101 looks amazing! Did it just came out recently? I had a look on its page and one of the notable things I've seen is the option to use a direct cable to BNC/RCA connectors which would immensely help the short distance issue I have with my gscart lite since the output connector to my PVM from retro cables is really short.
I had a look at shumps again and Super G is unfortunately not repairing gscart lites anymore which is a bummer. Mine is still working at the moment but if one day it goes out I might considering picking the 101 up since I would like to go back using a manual switcher.
Axunworks SCA101 is new and freat. green pcb version is only 1300 rmb abouy 180 usd
Where did you get the (presumably) male to male scart coupler seen at 4:14?
It's a prototype. The product will be launched soon.
On the new gscartsw does the RGsB to RGBs work on the OG XBOX? After modding one for RGsB?
It should!
Will you be doing a video on component switchers? I'm debating on getting a Extron Crosspoint switcher with bnc to rca caps added to the ports for my HD Retrovision cables.
im using Extron component. it works great. only downside is the size
@@RideRedRacer size is no concern just that component cables can work on the BNC ports with adapters.
Looks like the phase was set incorrectly when testing the gscart switch? And what’s with the pixel flickering in your captures?
The phase was set on all captures, those are digital artifacts - I just randomly started getting those again on my Datapath Vision E2S. The analog interference in the blue area wasn't affected by the speckles, but it's really annoying that I couldn't get rid of them ;/ I ordered a new E1S, just to help troubleshoot.
But there is super noticeable ghosting on the gscart switch captures on the right side of objects. That can’t be correct.
Do you do all your testing on a flat screen? Would like to see how this gear looks on a crt, same principles apply I’m sure .. interference or no interference
If anything these should all look even better on a CRT, particularly the Taxon one, as CRTs tend to mask a lot of interference noise, especially consumer ones. These don't do any changing of the signal, so it shouldn't look any worse.
For these tests, I felt digital captures were the best way to demonstrate the noise. Sometimes I take video of a CRT / flat panel with my camera though. It all depends on what I'm trying to highlight.
I think I'm just going to build my own at this point. I'm up to where I need something like 30 goddamn ports and even with my stacked daisychained switches it's getting out of hand.
Or just get an Extron Crosspoint.
@@RetroRGB We do have a matrix switcher in the house as it happens, but even then they tend to top out at 16 inputs.
Actually, the Crosspoints go up to 32. You'll have to make custom cables...but 32 should cover everything :)
3 Bandridge 7725 in a row, one spare. Great stuff, sadly now very hard to get. (Not to be confused with the 7735 Version)
Yeah, I think there's a few revisions of each as well. I think there was one that was fine with no mods, one that required you to cut a trace and another that couldn't be fixed. Everyone I've spoke to who said they have the good ones are very happy with it though!
@@RetroRGB true true. I checked mine if I need to cut a trace, which i had to in all 3 by now. This, and good cables can brighten your day.
Thanks for putting this out! I use a shinybow scart Matrix switch, but I may upgrade to a g scart eventually , so it's good to know that it's still stands up. However, You got to stop teasing us with this coupler man! That's a solution I've been looking for for a while, and I'm checking the website every day for an update!
LOL, sorry! I'll post about the coupler as soon as it's ready! Also, I used to own the Shinybow and it's awesome if you need a matrix switch. No extra gaming-related features though.
@@RetroRGB haha, it's fine, I just have to eliminate 2 long cable runs for space and clutter and I'm getting the sweats every time I see it. Yeah, I enjoy my shiny bow I needed the two simultaneous output functions because I'm trying to get a streaming setup going and it works great so far.
@@tsuran3848 Hi, I would like to purchase Shinybow Matrix Switcher soon for use with Playstations mostly. There is very little info about it online from retro consoler users. Have you encountered any problems while using it? Signal degradation, lost of signal ect ? Do you know any sourse of info where to look for such info ? Thanks in advance or your reply !
where can I buy a male to male scart coupler like in your video? thank you
It will be released soon. It should have been out by now, but was delayed because of everything going on :(
@@RetroRGB excellent, please update later on your webpage when available, it will become handy to many people, thank you for your excellent work Bob
Four adverts in an 18 minute video seems a bit excessive but if you have to, fair enough.
RUclips does it automatically. I can turn them off if it's that annoying...was is an add that just popped up on your browser, or one that interrupted the entire video?
@@RetroRGB Apologies for the late reply, the ads Interrupted the video (as an aside, I don't think the overlaid ones are intrusive to be fair) but as I said, if it helps you monetise your content, so be it.
You seem like a sweet heart.
Hey Bob, great video as usual! Do you have a Brionvega Algol 11" ? I'd like to find one, how about the tube or image quality?
I picked that up a few years ago and it looks great! It's PAL-only on all inputs except RGB SCART - That will accept both NTSC and PAL.
@@RetroRGB thanks a lot for your quick reply Bob! Do you know if it is the 1989 or 2007 model (the only two mode with rgb scart input)?
There's no build date on mine, but I know it's the model made in the 2000's.
Great work! I'd love one of these looking at Component switches for those of using a lot of y pb pr via HD retro vision cables
Why are the scart swithces so expensive?
That's a totally fair question. The truth is that to add all these features in a way that retains the original quality requires very expensive parts, quality manufacturing and through testing. The lack of features on the Otaku is why it's so cheap, as it doesn't require anything other than the main components.
The 101 looks amazing but Jesus Christ, $225...
THE SCA-101 is 1300rmb thats $183
@@drfunkenstein2k Huh, it says 225 on the site for me
@@XZenon thats for the special edition black and gold , the regular green pcb one is $183 , i work with axunworks
@@drfunkenstein2k Oh, cool. Still, it says $200 for the regular green PCB one.
that is not a jumper my friend, it's a dip switch
Hahahaha....damn, how did I let that slip!!
@@RetroRGB That makes you human 😝. Great video btw!
Nice! Any chance for a similar video but for BNC and/or component switches?
At some point, yes...but I'm so backlogged, that'll be months away. I'm cool with someone beating me to it though! Just use the same (or better) test methods that I did :)
@@RetroRGB Gotcha, gonna give Adam a call and see if he can handle it. Probably won't be able to test for lag though.
I wonder if that would turn into another catch phrase?: "Just switch the f&!$#*g input!!!"
@@RetroRGB He wouldn't even need to switch inputs, Bob! HE WOULD JUST PLAY THE FU(KIN6 GAME! X^D
I just use an 8 port VGA KVM that I got on ebay for $20
your room is amazing
Thank you. LOL, it's not a room though, it's a 4x4 corner of another room. Gotta get creative in NYC :)