Shunt mod! My 40mph 72v EMTB needs more speed, Let's mod it, I'll show you how on any controller.
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2022
- Loading up the shunts with solder will allow maximum current flow, just adding allot of solder to the shunt will negate its ability to adjust the current flow.
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This is great. Keep posting these tech how to's and crazy builds - nobody else has content like this. You're channel's gonna blow up!
Nice stuff to know, Learning more all the time. Please do a display wiring video How the wires in the back meet the front connectors and what goes to what. 😇
Best easiest way to release all power from controller once battery is disconnected all you have to do is switch your bike on and that in itself will drain all the juice left in the CAPs
Your the man thanks for the help your videos really help me really appreciate it ❤❤❤❤
I've never seen a cannabis grow tent used as a bike workshop before
Lol stick around and you may see lots of things you've never seen before, lol I do what I gotta do however I gotta do it
I also didn't know that was the purpose for this tent, that would have been a good comment on Amazon website as they had it as back yard gazebo then some could say they never saw that used as a cannabis grow tent, lol I guess it depends on what field of work you're in.
I wasn't trying to be judgemental. I'm sorry if it offended you. I recognised it because that's what my son uses for growing his weed. Anyway you have a very interesting RUclips channel for people to learn from
I have a magnum pathfinder 36v and bought a 48v battery but I’m getting a battery error. Would switching my controller be sufficient? Please and thank you 🙏
I have the seev 800 an my control is bad mosfets are burnt in it what control do u recommend to replace it to have better speed an power without doing anything except switching the control I appreciate any advice an the video
I have made the shunt and i change all mosfet with bigger one and capacitor from 63v to 100v 1000uf to 2200 uf now my controller work as beast
That will do it alright, I was gonna do a video modifying a Sabvaton doing the same thing but then I though about how many people are actually going that far and not many. You sir are Technically levels above the average modder. I use to build ham radio and Cb amolifiers years ago. Pretty much any thing with amplification requires same principles. Larger transistor different bias voltage and some capacitive and inductive reactance to make it all play nice. Tats why I didnt make the video Id have to teach some basic electronics how many guys like yourself know what an emiter base and collector are. This is about as far as the average modder should go. Congrats That was a great modification
Chris i have a 5000w rear wheel a 72v 40ah battery its doing 42mph max getting there is very fasy is this down to my controller im seeing 5000watt on 72v doing 60mph
I have 1 bar on mine. Could I just winde a thin aluminum wire around it ? Instead of solder ?
Hi it is possible to shunt all 5 mettal wire together without burning my mosfets? Or it depoends on how much voltage im using to feed my controller? So my set up is that i can use 96v total and im not sure if is ok to shunt all 5 wire together or after i shunted all 5 wire together try them with low battery pack and monitorize if the controller get overheated?
Will this help the controller not cut out when you put 60v power through a 48v controller, cause basically the cut off voltage is 57v will this stop, the cut off voltage on the controller?
I’ve found many people say 有 can put 72v batteries on 48v controllers? Did 有 solve the cutoff? Got a couple projects that could do with your answer
hvd-3 800w my controller has a R005 resistor I'm looking to place another on top to half the ohm. To 0.0025. .... The resistor is a 0.0005....question is what watt do i buy 1w 2w 3w 4w 5w... I haven't a clue can u help please
i dont have these wires on my bldc. i only see a resistor r002, do i need to put solder on it?
noooo take a pic inbox me on fb same name
i did this mod and never got the motor to work again... computer turns on, i can cycle through the settings and everything, but throttle or pedal give zero motor reaction. any idea why? i literally soldered for like 5 seconds so hard to beleive i blew my controller.
It may have killed the hall sensors in your motor especially if its a geared planetary drive motor some of those tend to have very weak hall sensors the fact that you still have power and no throttle Im almost 100 percent sure, try disconnecting the halls its a possibility it will run sensor less but its stock so your hall wires and phase wires probably in same connector so you would actually have to cut them those are the very skinny blue yellow green wires going to the motor the thicker ones are the phase wires do not cut those. if your hall sensors short motor wont run so cutting them may allow it to may be stuttering on take off after so theyll need to be replaced. other issue blown mosfetts in controller as they couldnt handle excessive current
So how did it turn out? Was your throttle response too much (like full throttle like you mentioned from the start) or did it turn out ok?
Im pretty sure theres probably another video of me doing the 40mph I honestly cant recall as this was a while ago but i do know this Mtb did 40 and theres a video of it on my ch but youd have to search shouldnt be far from this one i dont have a playlist for these builds so there scattered ill work on grouping them. Im sorry but this was last summer id have to look for the next one myself
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 Yeah - was more curious how your experience has been on the throttle/start. Concern here is the immediate 100% (or so) when starting. I am sure top speed is increased. Thanks for your thoughts.
It works with just an alligator clip? That's a great alternative to test the behavior before soldering
Absolutely which is why I made mention
I only have one shunt. I soldered a wire on the shunt connections on the bottom of the board, idk what gauge wire, it was a small wire. Worked great for about 150 miles then blew a capacitor in the controller, got a new controller and did it again and I was amazed. Stock my 600w scooter goes 24mph on a good day, it was going 28 but the great part was the torque, I had to lean all the way forward to keep it from doing wheelies on the launch and ripping my arms off lol unfortunately the controller blew in about 5 miles lol I have my 3rd controller on the way and I know I should leave it alone but I'm looking around, watching videos to see if there's a safer way to do it, maybe the wire on the bottom of the board was the problem. When I added solder to the shunt itself I didn't really notice a difference.
Yeah that works lol 😆
Get one big enough you don't need to shunt double whatever Amp one you had
Ecotric was nice enough to fill my Rocket's controller with epoxy so I'm getting hub motor, a battery to match the motor and phaserunner controller from GRIN Technologies. I'll be upgrading the brakes as well and vlogging the whole thing.
Super 73 does same thing
There is something called the BMS chip which keeps all the specs in range. Cutting wires leaves a loophole of data off the BMS chip causing serious stress on one of the parts of controller, battery and motor. Yeah it's doing fine after cutting wires but in time, the BMS chip will act up to fail it's original settings of the safe range of spec settings.
Bro you don't know wtf you talking about, BMS is in the battery go get some more edumacation and come back
Just proves you didn't even take the time and watch what shunt mod is, if you had you know you don't cut anything. Your silly ass looked at the thumbnail with the pliers and made assumptions. No wires were cut, go find a stump to fit your rump. I hate when people think their so smart they out wit themselves. You don't know what a BMS is obviously you didn't watch whatever video you saw that on either. Unbelievable
@ChrisCrossingWires1212 true bro lolz, bms is for battery and its waste of time to put a big chip on the controller lol.
@@mrcoco3562 Yes, lol, but my ebikes too good to go to mess with but YEAH, upgrading is the thing to do but keep it safe like jus got a DUAL Battery terminal adapter of combination to use 2 batteries for motor! It got my 1200 watt to go 36mph and even giving me option on my LCD to set Volts to 60v or 72v but a bit too much for my 1200watt besides the mass increase of energy drain. I get 100 miles off start to end using 2 batteries on 48v setting. Upgrade is the key, but let manufacturers do the wigging so you can Sue them when stuff on fire. Ride strong bro and safe, always.
Is it possible to make a shunt switch? I think that sounds like a great idea.
possibly but Id do it with a switch and relay although Im not sure if the resistance through the relay would have any affect, Im sure not just straight thru a switch because the purpose is to allow max current flow and most switches are high current and if you did get a high current switch youd need thick wire so a relay would be best with short leads. Id try that but not a straight switch
Nice danger battery. YOLO!
Speed to x2 ✌️
Love this bike ...what bike is it?
This is my lil converted MTB
It works . Is there a way to cool the controller down now .?
lol electric fan, heatsink add on, ride sensibly , ghive it a break but more poer in a small case definitely gonna get hot, and it should be on outside if its tucked in frame. If its 90degrees outside you cant haull ass for extensive periods of time and now that youve seen tha you like extra power buy a controller that is that wattage/ these tiny controllers even upgraded chineese ones are a dime a dozen. $25-$50 on amazon for a 30-45 watt controller, easillly swappable just think Big boy controllers are 400-1500 so peanuts, you succesfull on your 1st modd, time for #2 controller swap lol
Hello, where did you get your battery triangle bag??
Honestly Brother someone gave me that bag I have no clue where they got it but my triangle battery fit right in. I think that's a standard mountain bike full frame bag
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 T hanks for the reply:)
Unit power pack sells different bags bags for their batteries..all except the square 72v 40ah
Chris, I have the exact same battery voltage meter you have zip tied near your crank set.. what line on the e-bike controller do I wire it to.?
you can connect that to the ignition wire that pwrs your controller on that will give you battery source voltage
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 I have no ignition wire.. can I hook it to the battery power on the controller side.?
@@markj.7630 sure it will stay on until you unplug it but yeah. what kind of controller are you using that doesn't have a ignition wire or a pwr on wire. that means your controller is never off except when you unplug it. I'm betting you do and it's probably tied into you battery wire as well, lol that will work out just may stay on, lol
you can also use the alarm wire out, if you have a red plug you can use red wire on that as well. That's also a constant stays on all the time
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 so the red connector is a constant-on connection and can work to hook up a meter?
I need answers, so i have a 350w and a 800w controller. both have shunt mod thing, problem is if i test the 350w one on the ground i can barely hold the bike, wants to go hard, i draws like 750w on a wattmeter. if i use the modified 800w controller , the bike barely moves if i hold it, and it draws peak 2000w, i know is real because the phase wires almost melt and i see it on tbe wattmeter. Do why does the little controller seem to have more power and torque, both dont use hall sensors
sounds like the big controllers phase wiring is different, youll find allot of controllers and motors phase wires dont match up correctly, now if that 800watt motor is drawing more current and phase wires are heating up its out of phase with the motor, its drawing more current yes but its not producing it in more pwr as far as rpm, its producing heat because the energy not being released. doesnt matter if the colors are matched correctly you need to play around with the phasing, means switch the blue green and yellow around to different configurations until the wheel spins freely and its making power as in torque. try that i guarantee you see a difference, you cant hurt anything doing that, some combos will not operate at all and some will be smoother and faster, youll know when its right.
I had to swap power phase leads to get mine to reverse,,,know I go forward lol
I add solder to mine because i have only one wire but didn’t result in more power. I would like to understand where the speed limiter is.
What kind of bike is it or controller as some don't, that is what limits the current flow
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 it’s not a bike. It’s a escooter and its a 48v setup.
Love your videos but I gotta say when my friend showed me one at first I thought it was a parody of Leon Phelps the ladies man.
Would it work it you just squeeze them together instead of adding solder
no it's not just them touching together the solder disrupts the shunts abilities to change resistance/impedance that adjust the amount of current flow.
Ugh, wouldn't that be putting more stress on either the controller, battery or motor? Specs are there for a reason as all these fires going on could be related to people messing with the specs to gain more speed.?. If dies not have a pre set setting to adjust speed, it's best to not get into the box and start cutting wires which throws off everything of the controller's settings on specs besides the possible chance of e bike 🔥 later on down the road as the stress build up takes time before the end result of such changes occurs.
I award you the first official Ebike Karen to comment on a RUclips ch dedicated to Ebike modifications for performance enhancing find another shunt mod video to comment on you picked the wrong one. Thank you that's last response you'll get next step is boot up the ass to the stratosphere of no comment making on this ch!
Why isnt their a ride before and after
Because I have separate videos of before and after. Shunt mod definitely works. It's not gonna give you a major increase in top speed. Your lucky if you get extra 53mph what it does give you is more power as far as torque. It gives you better acceleration to get to you top speed or help you ability to get up hills better if your on a low wattage bike. At the end of the day this is a cheap easy method for a small increase in power. Most people are gonna just get a bigger controller so if you don't Wana waste time. Do that, most people can't Change there controller so they do this
excellent tutorial ,how not to do it!!
Just get a better controller lol
This mod is for people that don’t have money to waste on drugs and have to do what they can but if you want the baller controller builds I do have those too on my 34kw build with a ASI BAC8000 but just so they know why you feel incline to say that post a link to a. Video of your build so these guys can see what the big boys run
Enough talking get straight to the point 👉
i have 2 controller in my electric scooter is tham means i must do that things in both controllers or just in one
Both
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 thank you so much for your answer