How to fix a Shimano hydraulic brake without bleeding it.
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- Опубликовано: 7 май 2019
- How to fix a Shimano hydraulic brake without bleeding it. Is the brake lever touching the handlebar? It could be worn out brake pads or lack of fluid or air in the brake line.
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General tips for super tight screws... Shock it ... Put screwdriver in place, tap on top of screwdriver with small hammer or blunt tool to shock the screw. Can help break it loose. Also, try screwing in a bit then out. Repeat as needed.
Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you
Your welcome Aaron!!⚙️
did you put fluid in the other side? i want to see if it fixed the problem since it was completely out?
thank You helped a lot
Wonderfully helpful 😍
Thank you Amir.
can you make a video for blinker fluid aswell ?
Sure, what is blinker fluid?
It's important to change to lighter weight blinker fluid in the winter. Otherwise your blinkers go too slow.
@@jackstanley7901 slow blinkers are really bad. 🤣
Not as bad as muffler bearings.
Thank you are very helpful video
Your welcome. Thanks!
Worked for me! Thanks
Your welcome Matt. Thanks
I dont hve the fluid.. what should i do..is there any fluid that i can use.
So I had no idea what I was doing with my tektro brakes and was trying to replace the pads which I guess didn't need replacing but down at the caliper I unscrewed the wrong screw right and all the liquid leaked out and now my frying brake has 0 power, when you pull it, it goes to the handle bar with 0 effect, I tried the brake bleeding thing with a kit I ordered with the correct mineral oil but still my brake has zero power what am I doing wrong how can I fix it please, I don't understand it very much and it's very frustrating, I just want my bike to work right please help someone
Your supposed to replace the brake pads first because that pushes the fluid back into the reservoir
Thanks for the video.
I actually just bought this brake set and the brake hose position is reversed. (Front brake is left lever, while I use right lever).
If I swap the cable from the lever, can I bleed and pumping the air out by opening the reservoir just like in your video?
You are welcome glad to help!
I would bleed the whole system, use new hardware though. Barb and olive, sorry for the late response.
euro/ aussie style, vs. american . front/right is better for right dominant persons, but i did not learn that way...
Nice video! Have you ever tried putting a dab of valve grinding compound on the driver tip? It really grabs.
Ooo, I have not but I would definitely try it. Sounds like a headache saver. Good tip!!
Thanks you very very much. I have the same brakes
My pleasure!!
Or as my suggestion above, buy a Wera screwdriver and never look back. Good tip though!
I have not been able to use my mountain bike since COVID, my husband store it upside down, I was told it is not fixable anymore because it is old, it is a Gary Fisher and I loved it! Where do I get the oil? I know this is an old video, but I see people still comenting on it. Maybe someone can help. I live in Sun Valley, Idaho
I believe any bike is repairable. Finding a experienced mechanic can be difficult. Keeping cost down may be hard to. Brake fluid can be found at most bike shops or order online. Shimano uses mineral oil, Sram/Avid used Dot 4, 5 brake fluid.
Hi there. Need some advice.
Scenario: i tried to bleed my DEORE XT brake. So i started from the port on my caliper using syringe to pump new fluid flowing to reservoir. But, the syringe was not moving (stuck, no flow). Thought of clogged somewhere.
Remedies: I disconnected the hose from caliper and there is a flow when i pumped the syringe. Put the back the hose again.
So i disconnected the hose from the lever and tried to pump the syringe from the caliper port, it has flow. Thought its clogged in the lever. So i disassembled the lever hoping to see something inside. Cleaned up the cylinder, seals on piston looks good and put back together.
Tried again to pump fluid from caliper bleed port but the syringe still stucked. No flow od fluid to the reervoir. Any ideas on this? Thanks!
Good... But heres what I would do differently (Apart from doing a full bleed that is usually only a few minutes more)...
(BY THE WAY.. IF THIS IS BRAKE FLUID, NOT MINERAL OIL... DON'T FORGET IT IS LIKE PAINT STRIPPER... TREAT IT AS SUCH!!)
Once the reservoir is open:
1: Make sure the brake line is LOWER than the reservoir!
2: if the reservoir is full, soak as much of the old oil out with a CLEAN rag or I prefer a paper towel (watch for wood dust though from some paper towels)
With step 3 coming up you can NEARLY drain the reservoir if you are careful and the bike is solidly mounted (Not just leaning on a fence... or your Lamborghini)
3: Pry the pads apart a little (carefully with a flat blade screw driver or nylon lever if u have one...)
This will push some of the old fluid (and hopefully any air in the top of the tube) into the reservoir.
4: Fill the oil at least 2/3rds then CAREFULLY/SLOWLY pump the handle a couple of times to return the pads making sure the reservoir does not get below 1/3 full.
Top up as needed.
5: Once done, fill to about 2mm from the top of the reservoir (trying to get the reservoir as level all round as possible...)
6: leave the cover, place the rubber bellows in FROM ONE END (The thickest end 1st if the bellows is tapered) rolling it across the fluid so any excess pushes out the last end to seat.
(You should be able to see if there is not enough fluid doing this)...
7: once the rubber is fully seated, replace the cap and do it up.
8: If this was brake fluid (DOT4 etc.), wash the handle NOW and any fluid spillage. DOT brake fluid IS paint stripper, but is deactivated by water.
9: pump the handle a few times to seat the pads again...
10: If there's still a little sponge.. and you still refuse to do a full bleed... tip the bike over and rest it with the brake lever upper most, brake line down underneath it...
11: Pull the brale lever on TIGHT and tape, zip tie, or tie it ON. then tap/vibrate the brake hose to get any air out..
12: Still spongy.... Bleed the whole thing....
Oh and 13: If you replace your pads... open the Reservoir as you will need to pump out excess oil as you pry the pistons apart to fit the new pads.
(14 even... : I am running pads that were completely black & soaked in OIL when I got them xmas 2019 (All my videos in my channel are on the same cleaned pads except the 1st 2 where they were still saturated, squealing like a pig and stopping like something that isn't stopping some time soon (hilarity ensued).... You CAN clean pads... use a combination of CRC Brakleen and meths with paper towels (you figure the combination)... DO NOT PULL THE BRAKE LEVER WITH THE PADS REMOVED.
Phew.... I gotta do a video sometime on this...
Thanks for this man, i got a new bike out of the box and the left lever is spongy...., i will try your steps and hopefully resolve it without needing to do a bleed.
@@arcascion8605 I have plenty of old handlebars lying around so if I need to, I take a lever off the bike (leaving the line connected) and put it on the spare bars, that way I can assure the line is all uphill to the lever putting the spare bars
...although if it's the rear, you often just need to loosen the lever and stand the bike on its rear wheel...
and if it's the front, tip it over with the front lever uphill..
(I didn't mention left/right as in NZ the front is the same as motorcycles and is on the right).
If you do bleed them, I find it's best to crack the bleed nut so it's not too tight, then barely loosen it so you have a bit of back force squeezing the fluid through the nut... and close it before the handle had reached full travel in.
If it's new it may have been stored upside down so hopefully just an air bubble that you can migrate back to the lever.
Good luck.
@@TheButlerNZ Thank you so much this is golden information, I'll do it tonight after work hopefully, it gets sorted out.
@@arcascion8605 Let us know how it goes.
No bleeder valve? Just like in motor vehicles there's a need to bleed to remove the air. Is it the same for hydraulic brakes in bicycles?
Tide Cruz Yule. There is a bleeder valve on the calliper. There is also a screw to attach a reservoir on the brake lever to gravity bleed/flush the fluid
Thanks for the informative video. I have this problem but one of the levers is also too close to the handlebar in its rest position. I can tell by comparing it to the other lever. This means that it has less travel and so I suppose it pumps less fluid? Do you know of a way to fix this?
Have you tried to adjust the reach of the lever?
@@BikeTeacher I'm not sure how to do that
@@giandab8053 have you figured it out? It’s the screw that you can hand tighten that’s on the very outside of your levers. If it’s tightened it’ll affect the distance between your grips and your brake levers.
Thats also my fucking problem rght now. It is risks for accidents.
@@dominicw8868 Thanks, I've figured it out!
does it have reach adjustment like the modern hydraulic brakes?
This one has the standard lever adjustment. No pad adjustment.
wow interesting, just found out it can be like that, I have the same problem on my trp hy rd, time to try
Nice, did it work?
@@BikeTeacher yes it's worked , i posted on maugowes too maugowes.com/blog/Bleeding-TRP-HY-Road-Flat-Mount-6279cec6231d0258054efe7d
thank's it it helpful,i fix my SLX hydraulic brake, you are real good teacher
You're welcome! Thanks Ayi!
I've just discovered a similar issue on a new brakeset install. Came setup with pre-bled hoses, and rear installed fine, but when I installed the front caliper and removed the block and squeezed the lever while attempting to tighten the caliper bolts to center it. Well I felt the lever "give" and go to the bar. It had leaked fluid at the caliper (banjo but different style connector,) as the factory tech hadn't tightened it. I did and no more leaks but now there is only 1mm of caliper piston movement. I'm wondering if I can do your method to firm it up and add the missing oil that spurted with my lever pull, rather than a full bleed?
It’s possible. I can’t say it will work for sure. But try it and just be vigilant for the lever touching bar again. Even on rides. I’m over emphasizing but safety first. At best it will work a for many rides and you will need to bleed sooner than later. Or nip it in the bud and just bleed it.
@@BikeTeacher I guess it can't hurt to try... actually in the interim, with the system as is and bike upright and reservoir straight as possible, I pumped the lever 6 or 7 times as you did, to try and get fluid in from the reservoir. The lever firmed up a bit and now allows full lock with a finger width (prob less than 2cm) until the bar... Not great, but hey at least the brake WORKS!! I'm optimistic if not confident 😉 that a bit of replacement replacement oil will firm the lever back to where it needs to be, and allow full piston travel. Also can air have got in if the valves are closed?
It’s possible but unlikely. It took force to. Rear the leak. Air would need to be forced back through the leak area. Sounds like you got it covered.
Does anyone know what size the bolts that go on the oil tank cover are? I need to get some for a shimano deore hydraulic brake model 2010
Not sure. Here’s a link. www.performancebike.com/shimano-bleed-port-screw-oring-xt-slx-y8v398010/p1372389?v=564852&gclid=CjwKCAjw6IiiBhAOEiwALNqncc4aYI_F_igRBxSrlPBEubiY2VPv-LaeHXH2AGobu4Six2upIVk7ABoC43IQAvD_BwE
I googled, shimano, brake resivoir cover bolt
Were can i find a bleed valve cap
Try some penetrating oil on those screws and support the lever on a workbench or something. Stay safe!
Or use a cordless impact wrench to loosen them. Then replace those Phillips screws with some nice hex or torx screws.
Can we use break oil that use for vehicles like dot 3 dot 4 for this ???pls rply 😢
i wouldn't - possible but can drastically reduce the lifetime of breaks
@@FerscMoses thnx!
Ok, I rounded the screw, but managed to get it in the vice and get it off, but now need to replace the screw. Any idea what size of screw I need? Thanks
I don’t the size. But here’s this. www.performancebike.com/shimano-bleed-port-screw-oring-duraace-ultegra-y0c698030/p1372389?v=795959&gclid=CjwKCAiA6Y2QBhAtEiwAGHybPSZ620vWJYl_ajcze06b57KvFxZffrkCb-Psrr-lbVtLk8vOp_v-vBoCdNUQAvD_BwE
@@BikeTeacher Wrong screw. Your video is for the old style brakes, so it is the two screws for the reservoir lid I need. Your link is for the bleed screw on the M8000 brake lever.
Hi.. Mine is hard to press the break but it has good break pad. Hoe can i make it soft.
Is the lever moving freely? Or barely moves like the brake pads have no room to move? you may need to purge the reservoir of some liquid. A couple of drops at a time.
What kind of Oil should I use to fill the brakes with?
Shimano mineral only(if your brakes are Shimano). I've done the research, any dot fluid is not good for the system and also expires where as mineral is good forever once opened. Dot is rated for higher end applications ie motorcycles. Went through this today.
Shimano Mineral Oil.
3:15 if that screwdriver slips from the screw it ends up right in the middle of your hand. better to remove the lever from the bar to loosen the screw. than mount it back. just a safety advise for someone will do this for the first time. ;)
Or at least wear a glove. The guy identifies the risk then does nothing to mitigate it. 🤨
I know he shows how it could go wrong then just does nothing
@@robinherrick2177 Don't slip. It's that simple.
Lol,
Invest in a set of Wera German designed screwdrivers. The only one I believe that has laser cut tips that bight most of the hard screws that would otherwise strip. My Dad told me about them. I tried his and immediately bought a set. Never went back. Not an advertisement. Just trying to save you some frustration!
Thank you, I love quality.
can this be done insted of a bleed ?
when do you know u need a bleed insted of doing this ?
It will not take the place of a bleed. Dirt will get into the system over time. Depends on your hourly use. Bleed every 8-12 months if you ride once a week yearly. Also if the lever comes very or touches the handlebar that is a sign it needs a bleed. If a loss of pressure is felt at any moment, it needs a bleed.
Why is it that every time i squeeze my break lever, my shimano mt-201 disc breaks “click” at the wheel disc. How do I stop this annoying click? Is it the brake pads moving up and down
It normal on some brakes. It is coming from the pads and the metal spring.
It normal on some brakes. It is coming from the pads and the metal spring.
Good video. You should use a support for the handlebars rather than using your hand as in minute 3:14. If the screwdriver slips you will injure your hand.
What does bleeding mean
You drain the liquid out (ie. bleed the liquid)
My rear brake work for a about 5 seconds and then they just go down all the way is there a fix to this
That is the best way.
Sounds like air may be getting in somewhere..
@@herculesmclovin turns out I had a leak in the brake just bought a new one instead
@@pablinabalerina9331 yeah, thought as much! It's a pain but glad to hear 👍
I just bled my brakes like 2 months ago and there is fluid in them but they still go to the bar. What does that mean?
There's bubble open all the reservoir and brake like 20 time
They still have air in the lines, or sucking in air, fluid leak. Bleed again.
Maybe the syringe or hose or seal has a leak.
check for the little o ring, if missing, no pressure like you have lost pressure
Sounds like LTJ bukems remix of 'The James Bond Theme' playing in the background.
That’s sounds about right. My favorite to work to.
thank you from Jamaica where I have no bleed cup
Sorry to hear that. I do not know how to fabricate one, The seal is very important.
Bless up bredren!
YES BUT where did all the fluid go??????? Does this sort of thing mean you need to go over the calipers and tighten up the bled nut.??
I believe small amounts of fluid seep out past the piston cups, slowly evaporating. If you see significant amounts of leakage then yes check your bolts.
Not to nitpick but you really should have pumped the lever for a few minutes before assembling as it would get rid of any air bubbles in the hose.
Noted. I’ll try it next time.
As I was watching I was thinking "oof, that screwdriver is waaay too big."
sounds like you need to invest in an impact driver
I have the De Walt 20v, variable trigger. Maybe on a dare.
@@BikeTeacher en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver this, not an electric screwdriver
This method works on most of Shimano,I just did that on a br m400
Nice!!
That might be a JIS screw instead of a Philips. That would explain why it was so difficult to open. JIS has straighter sides.
Great information, thanks for pointing that out. “The most popular of which is the JIS (Japanese industrial standard), to which the JIS screwdriver is made to the JIS B 4633 specification. The other is a pozidrive, but those are more commonly understood to be different. ... Both JIS and Pozidrive are re-engineered standards that aim to reduce or eliminate cam-out.”
Deore XT yes expansive we shall use philips screws,that is a dissapointment.
Don't stab your palm. (Proceeds to place palm right underneath and press screwdriver hard in a downward stabbing motion.....)
Definitely proceed with cation. Commitment is everything.
Half the video is how to use a screwdriver....
Note taken. Thanks
I thought it was funny too, until I realized how hard he hard to crank. I totally would have stripped it.
@@g4lukeg4 to be fair dude me too 😂
Yes I thank you too for your time and the free information.
@@larrytate1657 not really i just went and found another that was useful
brake model.pls
Oh man! I am not sure, that bike is long gone. Probably from the early 2000's.
I did some research, XT BL-M775
if this does not work, and the issue still is there, it might be leakage, the piston seals might leak, but if you get glazed pads or/and rotor too, and if you have burped them, or doen a full flush full bleed, and got the brake to feel perfect, and problem is still there, it might be the piston seals, for me it seems to be somewhere between 1-2 years before piston seals fail, mostly in rear brake.
which happens eventually.
1 to 2 years ??? That's too early for a seal fail. Your brake is Shimano ?
@@eduardomargutti yea, m6000, I previously had m615
@@mtbboy1993 I'm thinking about buying the Belgal Helix 7B, which use Dot 4 fluid, what do you think ?
@@eduardomargutti I want to avoid dot fluid cus it's toxic, bad for pain job, your skin, eyes, attracts water, needs more bleeding
@@eduardomargutti I don't know much about those brakes.
Will baby oil work?
yep it sure will mate, I just bled my sram hydraulic brakes with baby oil and it works just aswell for a fraction of the cost. Baby oil = Mineral oil : )
I am not sure, I would use the recommendation.
You didn’t show what happened after you added more fluid. Left me guessing wether it worked or failed!
The lever felt very firm and the lever stopping in a good place. Not to close the the grip. Pads were engaging against rotor.
Followed the video and its still loose
Do not use PH0 screwdriver as guy in video. Those screws are ordinary PH1 screws.
How does someone struggle that much to remove a important screw and not use anti seize when reinstalling it back in?
I don’t know.
Need your help teacher
What if the brakes has enough mineral oil but the lever still reach the handle grips?
In my case
Thanks Teacher😊
It’s very possible there is air in the system. It would need a bleed to remove the air and dirt. I have some videos on that.
Actually which brakes do you have?
They are JIS screws, not Phillips... Get a JIS driver and be amazed...
Why the hell do they put Phillips screwdriver screws there. Everything should be in Allen so we don't have to worry about it stripping
Not sure what goes through the minds of engineers. I am curious as well.
To be honest I'm not feeling these types of brakes that you need oil ... In my opinion i like the old school bike brakes. Easier to replace brake pads and no oil!
Takes 10 seconds to replace pads on hydraulic calipers. And you don't spend time adjusting the cable through the life of the pads. With hydraulics you just stick them in and they are good for up to 1000k with no adjustment.
Ya, I can see your point. My latest video I built a old school steel frame, cable brakes rigid fork. It's refreshing.
Self adjustment, that's a good thing to.
I ask for without bleeding
I don't understand, are you looking for a video on how to bleed brakes?
I did this and my fluid is full. I can't skid my back tire :( I almost touch the handle bars. I pulled out my brake pads(barely worn), pushed back the pistons and put back in the pads and then set my brakes. I still can't skid and I'm very close to the handle bars still. I tried pumping the brake like you did but it didn't seem to do anything at all.What do you think my problem is? Is the fluid just old and doesn't work properly? My front brake is fine but I barely use it compared to my rear which doesn't feel 100% safe to me anymore.
I would try bleeding the whole system. May have a lot of air inside.
@@BikeTeacher yeah my problem is finding a bleed kit
are you sure the rotors are absolutely free of any oil or grease?
Brake pads need to be completely free of any contaminant as well.
@@XAndrew88 Amazon. They have several types for sale.
Tools required:
Hex keys.
Ebay account.
Step 1- remove shimano brakes.
Step 2- sell on Ebay.
Step 3- buy Hope brakes.
issue: money
Dont bother if you need a lesson on how to use a screwdriver.
Half the video showing you how to undo a screw 🤣
Ya, it really sucks when hat screw strips.
Just wasted my time
My bad
Too much talking. Just open the damn thing and replace the fluid already!
I will try to speed up future videos. Thx
Lots of blah blah... almost 10 minutes wasted...
Ya, sorry about that. Mistake not repeated.
Haha dude no one uses this brake anymore. Why show this since shimano hasn't used this system for what....8 or 9 years?
I had some requests for this video, I still see them put on the trails.
Bike Teacher love it. I have the same brake system, and I wasn’t sure how to service it until I saw your video.
I am still using XT breaks with this type of reservoir and they still look like new!
I would if I had them. I do use Hayes HFX-9, which I've had for over a decade and they work as they did new. Consumerism is a bitch.
I just bought this, cheap.
can this be done insted of a bleed ?
when do you know u need a bleed insted of doing this ?
A bleed will flush out all contaminates and air in the system. This method will sometimes fix a brake lever that has poor pressure.
@@BikeTeacher and how do I know what method should I use?