Hydraulic Disc Brake Bleeding Done Right (Shimano)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- Check out our new, updated brake bleed video here: • TECH TIP: Bleed Bicycl...
I know, I know, we're known for manufacturing the most efficient bottom brackets in the world, but we here at BBInfinite are skilled technicians with years of experience and loads of time-saving techniques that we want to share with everyone. Bleeding a hydraulic brake system isn't hard, but it is easy to screw up. We show you how to do it step by step to avoid the drama. Bottom line: It's easy when you know how.
According to many sources online, mineral oil does not take on moisture from the environment. You mentioned that all brake fluids do this in the video, but it seems like that is only an issue with DOT fluid.
It's good to know this because it means even home mechanics can save money by buying larger containers of mineral oil.
I believe you are correct. Mineral oil is not hygroscopic.
I’ve watched a few videos about hydraulic brakes and this is by far the easiest to follow. Great video, thank you! 👍🇬🇧
I have, seen many bleed videos from competent mechanics before , yet , you you still manage to add an extra level of valued explanation.
first time I am going to bleed my breaks thanks for going into so much detail , it really helps , keep the quality coming
Great informative and technical advice buddy, well presented and delivered with regards to the workshop and wider environmental impacts of being sloppy. Keep up the good work dude!
Excellent video. I recently switched to a different handlebar and had to install a longer brake hose. This was my first experience dealing with hydraulic brakes but your instructions were perfect and allowed me to successfully conquer this project. Many thanks.
I've been thinking on learning how to fix this kind of brakes, now I think I can do it.
Really good video, thanks.
Loved the explanation of how the actual calipers work. It has always felt like a mystery how it slows me down when I hit the lever blazing downhill at 40mph. It's like an airspring.
hands off to you bud,... you are the king of instructional bleed brakes videos ! just outstanding,...you were born to teach! keep up the fantastic work #1
Great coaching style - easy to understand and follow along.
Great share and Very informative; Getting my Pacific MB into shape and this was great
Thanks this helped me fix mine!👍seem daunting at first but after a few reviews i gained confidence and fixed my dead lever😊
Impressive simple accurate logical presentation.
Awesome video, bro! I wish my mechanics are as meticulous as you. Keep it up, you’ve got yourself a new subscriber in me.
Thanks for explaining how and why the system works. Not another mindless regurgitatation of steps.
Wonderful instruction! Thank you so much for your time and effort!
Great professional presentation Gary! You are a natural.
thank you very much
it was of the very concise and in detail physics and techniques description of shimano brakes bleeding training.
If anyone is interested: My bike has middle grade Shimano hydraulic brakes. For the first two years I had lots of frustration. I shipped the bike overseas and had no brakes at all. I now own the Shimano bleed kit. I simply topped off the fluid, “burped them” and have had no trouble since. I also reoriented the levers so that the reservoir is mounted flat rather than at an angle. ( ? ).
After your bleed/burp you can re-angle your lever so you don't strain your wrists.
Great job of explaining the physics of what is important and what to focus on. Thanks.
Wow. Great instructions. Very detailed.
Oh noo I misunderstood a different video and thought you were supposed to let that level all the way out! thank you for clarification and making me feel stoopid, time to bleed again.... yaay mountain biking!
Best Video I have seen on this topic. Thanks!
Great video with good detail. Thanks for sharing
Got the Same lower end brake on a Used Bad Boy 5
AMAZING after bleeding !!!!!
feels better than XT and magura mt2
Very nicely done, thank you. Now I'm on my way...
Great info, saw a lot of vids never heard about turning adjustments out
Agreed! Especially about adjusting the lever length of pull screw in so that the lever is closest to the grip. Genius and highly detailed!
Thanks, I will be doing this, this week.
Confidence boosted. Thanks for the clear instructions :)
Wow! what an informative piece. Thank you.
This ongoing maintenance factor for hydraulic brakes is precisely why i prefer mechanical disc brakes .
If i was younger ,73 now, i would enjoy doing it , but i'm too lazy in my relatively advancing years. 😂
it is messy job, i done it many times and it is never as school example, always some problems and oil everywhere, i have mechanical discs too, little worse braking but much less problems
Clear precise video. Many thanks.
Amazing and detailted guide😊. Just subscribed😊
other than small confusion about Water loving Dot and Mineral Oil, this is a great video, every step clearly delivered.
Very clearly explained! Thank you !!
Dude, that was awesome. Many thanks.
Perfect video. I Have a short attention span and you hit all of the high points without getting into the weeds. I found this the most useful video and one of the few that shows the back brake bleed. Worked out great and I couldn’t have done it without your help.
Excellent, I'm so glad you were helped by our video.
Best video on bleeding period,especially about backing off the adj on lever
Thanks. On some systems it's not necessary but it's just good practice to reset to zero before any procedure where the entire system is being altered fundamentally, such as this.
Good video. That little tip about the lever piston missed out on other videos
Thanks for the excellent video.
I have to agree whit Terry.. easy to fallow
Excellent vid !!
Thank You!!
8:45 Actually I had a situation recently where the o'ring in the bottom of the bleed screw in the caliper moved and wasn't seated. Therefore when I press the brake lever, brake fluid came out and went on the rotor. It was hell to clean the rotor and the pads. How I did it, however, is to sand paper the pads and wash them and the spring in dish washing liquid and the same with the rotor.
But here is a tip: When cleaning the rotor, remember the the holes or spaces and the edges need to be cleaned as well.
I did this and was as good as new.
Excellent feedback and good technique. Dawn dish soap is the best degreaser known to mankind. If it can get wet, use Dawn.
Great Tutorial! :D I hope to be able to find the specific kit etc. that I need for my system! Btw, I would really advice you in future videos to have much better camera focus because I felt like I was watching in 360p sometimes. Other than that, all was great! But it really would make a huge difference with better camera focus! :D
God bless you guys! :D
It's an old video. We're about to redo the brake bleed vid, this time on a road bike.
Super clear instructions 🚲💨💨
excellent instructional vid
excellent video....well done.
That was good. Now would like to see one on SRAM brakes. They are complicated and confusing. Every video does it different.
I watch a lot of our local yt bike channels, and nothing beats these kind of channel which explain in depth from top to bottom, unlike our local ytuber that just spreads information without research. Keep it up man, I hope we learn a lot from you!
You sir, are too polite for RUclips comments. Joking aside, we appreciate the positive feedback. We are about to release an updated brake bleed video that corrects some of the minor misspeaking in this video and gives enhanced info on technique not covered in detail here. You may also like our in-depth BB reaming video series and our Threaded BB install series.
@@BBInfinite I'll keep in touch.
Fantastic video, this helped a lot on my first brake bleed!
I'm so glad to hear it. We've got a road bike brake bleed vid forthcoming as there are some complications unique to those systems.
That's cool but I ride MTB :)
Excellent explanation
Thanks. Great!! 12:39 ... absolutely right .. otherwise the thread of the lever will be ruined (as I did using the long side of an allen key) ... ;-)
Hi Great video, I have watched a few of these video's and yours seems to be the least complicated , soon I will be doing my daughters MT 200's following your method, thanks for putting the info out there for us dad's :)
Thanks. Here's the newer one, updated, and shows more technique and nuance.
@@BBInfinite Job now done, all i did was remove cap at lever, attach funnel, filled it with a small amount of fluid, repeatedly depressed lever, detached funnel, filled reservoir to top, reassembled, works perfect, thanks again :)
Good Job!
You can fix the squeak in your brakes with a little bit of Dawn dish detergent in warm water rubbing the brakes together
It's worth a try.
Excellent video!
Thank you. I'm glad it helped you.
7Ps. Top job sir!
very good instruction thumbs up
Looking for Shimano Tiagra bleeding procedure . Thank you .
Great guide, I already knew this, but this is very detailed.
12:18 these brakes are made to fail, fluid comes out where the seal & plastic cover is, the master cylinder is to flexible and is causing failure of threads for torx screw.
But you can just sand down the pads if they get contaminated, and use brake cleaner or degreaser to clean them.
Johannes Nilsen Nonsense! Some fluid came out after he tightened the 2mm allen cap screw because he was making sure no air was being pushed down into the brake line when he tightened that screw on to account for the inserted volume of that screw. Lots of idiots will wipe off the excess fluid at the top of the brake line where the 2mm cap screw gets screwed on before actually fastenng the cap screw back on. That almost always results in a small amount of air being trapped in the brake line when the cap screw is fastened. The way this guy in the video did it is exactly how it should be done with excess brake fluid left at the top, the screw then is screwed on, and then the excess fluid that got pressed out for the volume of the fastened screw is wiped off. There was absolutely nothing in this vid that indicated a master cylinder issue or that the brake line was not properly sealed when he was finished adjusting the brakes.
I think you misunderstood my comment. I agree with everything you wrote.
my point was thsi brake has design flaws.
I just shared my experience with the 3 sets of these brakes ( Shimano M615) my review of the brakes: wp.me/p60aTF-PP
Ha ha just watched a "Workshop Decathlon" video on this very same subject, and what an abysmal waste of time. They should have a look at this vid and see how simple it is to show how and why things are done. Well done on a nice simple info presentation. I'm now a subscriber.
Question...In other videos I"ve seen them velcro the brake handle and crack the caliper valve once or twice...is that over kill or just not needed for this particular shimano brake?
Nice job. Wonder if I can apply the same principles to my Vespa
Same principles.
If there was an Oscar award for break bleeding them this is the winner!
My rear brake has a further biting point than the front, is this normal?
this is the same method for changing the fluid ?
Which gloves you use? And do they deteriorate with the oil?
Does anyone know why the brake system is not bled from the lever downwards, as is done on cars? Is it because bubbles rise so the liquid is pushed upwards to ensure the bubbles go up and out?
Great video, how can one determine what fluid is used for the hydraulic disc brakes
it will be written on the levers/reservoir/calipers somewhere. If it's a Shimano system it will take Shimano mineral oil.
Simple, effective non nonchalant covers it all.
I"m glad you liked the vid. We're about to do another brake bleed vid. We're thinking of doing a road bike one, and then an MTB one separately.
It makes more sense to me to move reach adjustments all the way out.
No sense to move reach both in or out. It doesnt actually move cylinder, only the lever.
It depends on the design. Most calipers should be adjusted out.
I think that all of shimanos only moves levers.
Not needed at all, Read the shimano manual on their site.
This video did not cover a specific model. It is an overview on best practices for bleeding in general. If you need information specific to your model please look that up and follow it to the letter.
super presentation👌
Great video...I think I will stick to mechanical brakes. One less headache to be thinking about.
Does anyone know the specifics of this bleed block? Does it have other name?
Hi, nice video. Let me post my thoughts: When you initially remove the brake pads, one could squeeze once or twice the brake leaver for the pistons to come slightly out, use some spray brake cleaner to clean the pistons and then push them back in order to avoid inserting grime and dust into the calliper.
I have elsewhere read that it is quite dangerous to push mineral oil from the calliper to the brake leaver, as dirt may go up to the cylinder and destroy it. Is this true? One solution could be to initially fill the funnel with fresh oil, then pull it back out from the calliper with the syringe [in order to get out the old and dirty(?) oil], then empty the syringe and refill it with fresh oil to proceed as shown here. What is your opinion?
What is also your opinion with the push and pull method applied from the calliper?
Thanks a lot indeed, George.
Watch our newest brake bleed vid here: ruclips.net/video/nYnTfjPV-fA/видео.htmlsi=lAI30Mkg5pNwgoUl
Gary is the Best!
aw, shucks.
Thanks
If you adjust de lever close to the handelbar you are puling the piston back?? At 6.50
Very good.
Life saver 🙏🏿
ty very much !!!!
Hi I'm using the fil Oil what can i do thanks ❤
Nice video. Instead of sucking the fluid from the cup before removing, your kit should have a little plunger with an o-ring that you can press into the bottom of the cup, sealing it off, so that you can remove it without any fluid leaking!
Jeremy Fassler agreed, on a standard shimano bleed kit there is a small plunger that gets inserted into the funnel cup before removing it so no fluid leaks out of it
Hi there, I was couldn’t find any video on: how to fix bubbling sound in h
disc brakes. In my case rear break works fine and front also, however makes that bubbly/boiling sound at the end. What could that cause? May thanks for reply in advance
You should take your bike to an experienced technician for evaluation. If your brakes fail you could be seriously hurt.
Hi,in my opinion, you have a wrongly positioned bike on the service stand, you should turn it so that the brake cable goes straight from the bottom to the top of the rear caliper, and with such an arrangement as in the movie, the brake hose runs first down, to the bottom bracket area and only then curves upward, so air bubbles have a hard time getting out of the system. The tutorial itself is fine, best regards from Warsaw, Poland
Please post a video showing what you mean and post a link to it here. We would like to see a demonstration to the best of your abilities for clarity. Perhaps you are onto something that will help us and others do a better job. Please, share. This channel is about building a global knowledge base.
@@BBInfinite The point is, the rear caliper brake hose does not go up in a straight line. In your video, the rear caliper wire first goes down a little to the bottom bracket and only then goes up
@@lukasbad5646 Thank you for your participation.
also brakes A2Z, AD-PMPM203 160mm to 203mm 8"rotor, ELIXIR
using a cable tie to hold the piston block in place
Great video but wish you had explained the brake pad replacement
Sounds like we need to do another video soon:)
The old fashion way works fine, the only thing you need is a small see through plastic hose and a small ( hex) wrench.
You are a patient man. God bless you.
do these things come with the bike when you buy it are do you have to buy separate? Im thinking of getting a disk brake bike but looks like a pain to manage
If you buy your bike from a shop the brakes will be ready to go and will be good season after season with periodic maintenance. You must buy the kit separately, but you should not need it unless you are building the bike yourself.
I have bleed several shimano sets and always with succes. . now i need to work wit hthe one way bleeding. I see that if if you adjusted the reach of the lever you turn them al the way in .. i use to turn them all the way out .. Now you got me confused .. what is the right way ?
The reason to adjust the levers "out" is to ensure that the lever is not pushing the slave cylinder piston in at all. Some levers will need adjustment, others will not because some designs never push the piston partway in as part of the reach adjustment. So, if unsure, it's best to just loosen up the reach adjustment all of the way. The goal is to maximize the available fluid capacity of the system. Max fluid is necessary to compensate for pad wear/piston advancements.
Im a little confused, so if you push the fluid up how much are you pushing into the cup, an entire line? On my car we push oil out from the master cylinder (top) so the fried oil gets removed immediately. Your videos been great though much more than the Euro vids.
sorry for the late reply. Bicycle hydro systems are not like cars. The operating principles are the same but the way you bleed the systems is quite different. With bike systems always push air up, and then out. This has a lot to do with the orientation of the parts. Automotive and motorcycle systems have optimal component placement to ensure that bleed ports are at the highest point on the calipers, the fluid enters well below the bleed port, and the master cylinders have large capacities. None of this is the case with a bike hydro brake system.
Can we use the remaining mineral fluids in the syringe for front brake bleeding?
It is best to start with fresh, virgin fluid at all times. Never reuse comingled fluids.
I dont get that example of the lever adjustment
When you have this problem will it also make your wheel lock up
Seasonal wheel lock up is a problem associated with DOT systems, not mineral oil systems. If you have a wheel lock up spontaneously, especially when the weather turns hot, it's time to flush the system out completely and install new fluid of a type specified by the brake manufacturer.
I just saw another video where the bleed is done from the lever with a cup filled with the mineral fluid. No syringe needed. What is the best method?
air rises in fluid so it its best to push fluid into the lowest point and push the air out at the highest, so syringe to caliper should be the best method.
@@wacky7791 What Steve said.
what is that cleaning bottle? I want to buy it. please help
Sorry for the long response time. Very sorry. It is White Lightning Clean Streak. It is great. If you can't get it, use denatured alcohol, aka. ethanol.
Brother i am planning to buy btwin rockrider 540 how is it? and I am not a professional but usually I used to ride round 30kms a day. Sometimes in mountains.
And I am confused between rockrider540 and rockrider 520 because of its brake which is better hydrolic brake or mechanical brake I am looking for good front suspension as well and cheap maintenance. ..plz help me out what to buy...
Eden, get the hydraulic disc brakes for sure. Mechanical brakes have no feel, no modulation, and are just plain annoying to use. Hydraulics are where it's at. The lower end RockShox are great. Can't say much for RST and the like.
BBInfinite how about btwin rockrider 540 is it well bike to ride as I am nt professional usually I used to ride 50km a day in road??
It'll be a fine bike. I see no reason not to get it.
what kit would be suggested to buy?
If you have a Sram system it makes sense to get the Sram brand bleed kit. They work great. For Shimano I just get a kit that has the cup and syringe system patterned after Shimano's kit like the one I use in this video.