How The Hydraulic Brakes Work On A Bike. Not Only For Newbies.
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- Опубликовано: 31 авг 2020
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Thank you for taking the mystery out of these brakes.
1:38, why I feel pain in my teeth by looking that tool.....
Thanks for this. One of the first videos that explain how modern hydraulic disk bike brakes work.
Danny you really know a lot of things that are complicated and you made them simple for me! Thank you very much!! Now i understand how the hydraulic brakes work
never watched this explanation anywhere before. Thank you @SickBiker!!
Thanks, I'm new to disc hydraulic disc brakes, this video was really helpful. Appreciate the careful thought you put into making it for us.
thank you for the very lucid explanation ! I had no idea it was so simple a system. I really do have to learn how to do this on my own.now that i know how and why the parts do their jobs I can do this with immense confidence!
I was skeptical I could find a vid of a disassembled Shitmano caliper. Thanks for this. 👍
Thats that was a crystal clear explanation. I'm shocked at how simple the system is. That auto positioning design is far simpler then I imaged it would be.
Very clear and helpful, thanks
That’s super interesting! Thanks for sharing.
Great video ! Perfectly explained ! Thank you !
Cool, love the explanation!
❤ You make it crystal clear. Thanks.
Fantastic video really good explanation
You are great explained very well about hydrallic disc brake ...... love from india 🇮🇳♥❤💕
the 1st intelligent explanation of how it works, thanks a lot ....only one problem I can't unscrew the 2 screws and cannot open the caliper
Thanks for this great info. How do you adjust the hydraulic rear brake so it grabs better. I'm finding lots of info about adjusting left/right, but not to improve stopping power. Thanks in advance :)
Love love love this video. Thank you!!
very nice explanation, thank you.
Thanks for the great explanation.
Wow. Great explanation!!
Great video, thank you!
This is a great explanation! Like some others mentioned, would you make a video about the levers/reservoirs too?
Yes, i would greatly appreciate that as well.
Super interesting. This is the first time I see someone taking apart the calipers. Apart from the teaching and curiosity side, Is there any maintanence that would requiere it?
Perfect bro, many thanks 🎉❤
Its nice to watch specially if you clean the bike first :D
Great video. Thank you.
What is the tool to separate the caliper housing? Is it a Torx key or something similar?
The bolt material on my Shimano BR-R7070 (105) brakes looks to be made of cheese, and my Torx keys aren't a perfect fit.
Thank you.
Awesome video. Thanks.
that was just the info i needed. Fantastic. Just one question please. i have zoom brakes, I am loosing pressure only when the wheels are rotating. if I pull hard and fast no big problem, but minor braking slowly becomes softer and softer til lever is fully depressed. This only happens when the wheel is in motion. Any suggestions please sir?
Can you do a video on handlebar end of the brake(one that attached on your handlebar)? Always want to know what's going on there.
Great video!
Very nice now I understood how it works
thanks for awesome vids
Thanks for you excellent explication, I'm engineer and really enjoy this video.
Well explained, is it worth it to buy Trick stuff Maxima or Hope tech v4? If the procedure is the same as Shimano...
Sir how about hybrid hydrolic brake disaseble parts....tnx nice video
Excellent! I get it now!
Man you are a genius, thanks once again, you always save me!!!
He is very bright, but he shines in the video for showing the procedure in a way that his audience can understand. He explains a complex system in a structured way that looks easy enough to handle.
Please make a video for the levers
hi ! if you have to replace the seals on shimano brakes, how do you get them new? thanks!
This gave me the nudge to sort my rear brakes. Have stripped down and have new seals and pistons in. Is it really just a straight bleed to refill?
Hi..one question. I have a Tektro brake. The seal has "bite". Can use a shimano seal in a Tektro brake? The dimension of piston an seal looks similar.
How do you remove the calipers appart to fix the pistons ? How do you remove the oil before removing the caliper?
Clear, many thx
Please how to adjust my caliper its so tight its like braking already by itself
GreT explanation 😊
Great info
Knowledge is good! I would also like to see a brake lever disassembly as well.
Me too! Did you never find a good one by chance?
@@mdbourne no. I think the brake makers would prefer you buy complete new sets rather than providing parts and info to rebuild them
That was very informative. Can you do a similar video for the lever?
Sir,is their there any problem (oil sealing) in dissembling the calippers repeatedly for cleaning
Thanks!
Hi, I recently got my bike serviced 2 weeks ago. I got sick and took a week off riding my bike and I come back to the back break squeaky and not properly working. The main reason I got my bike serviced was because the exactly same thing happened to the back break and my gears weren’t properly shifting(my gears shift perfectly now). I have completely no idea. I left it in the garage. The people replaced the break pads and disks and put break fluid in my both front and back break because they’re hydraulic. I don’t know if it has to do with the hydraulic but yeah. Could something in my garage contaminated them? Maybe moisture? So please any idea on what may happened or anyone?
good info , pls do hydraulic brake lever working video
yes please
Next pls explain the brake lever thing..
I am just building a new bike an both pistons are just pushed in and dont move, I have bleed the system several times, there seems to be no air but pulling the levers gives me absolutely no movement. Do you guys have an Idea of what ycould be wrong? thanks!
How about brake leaking fluid?
Great vid for a beginner like myself. How do we know when the brakes/pads are worn?
For disc brakes you measure how thick the material of the pad is. It must be at least 1mm thick
For rim brakes (v-brake, cantilever, dual pivot, centre pull, side pull, u-brake..)there will be a line on the pad that says "wear line"(at least my pads have that). You shouldn't go beyond the wear line
Hi, I am new to road biking. I am curious if I could upgrade my brake from cable actuated to a full hydraulic system by replacing a brake lever and caliper only. Is it possible to use the same shifter with a new hydraulic brake system?
I guess it is possible with a semi-hydraulic system, you keep the brake cable that pulls on the brake piston at the caliper, however, you will need two route the cable there, which might not be easy and you will need mounts for the disc brakes on the frame and fork, which I suppose you don't have because road bicycle frames are specifically design for rim/disc brakes... You are better of with choosing a disc bike for your next one
Was it muddy last time you rode this bike? LOL. Good video.
What if it's going back and it's just pressing the pad
best content
trying to understand your explanation of self adjusting system - did you mean that the rubber seal allows some movement which returns back when brake-lever off, but with pad wear, the piston moves further out a little, which doesn't return when brake-lever off. (This piston movement can be a pain if happens when wheel/rotor is removed, But you can force it back with a screwdriver I think!)
If i'm understanding him correctly, and he didn't quite explain it - the rubber seal with flex and want to pull the pistol back a certain amount, but if the piston moves out too far then the seal slips very slightly o the piston, putting it in a new position, so then when the pressure is released, the piston only moves back the same amount as always but is now slightly further out than before.
I think then that the piston at the lever has a small pressure release hole so then it can still move back all the way and oil from the reservoir at the top can slip down to fill what would be the extra space
I am a bit puzzled about the self-adjusting piston aspect. The isle on the bolt for the oil travelling through the other side to make both piston work at the same time which I could understand. Logically speaking, when the pads become thinner where extra oil will be needed enabling the piston to travel further for a firmer grip, where are the extra oil come from unless there is a reserved reservoir or (second reservoir) to feed the extra oil when needed? Otherwise pumping air into the system would be the only way to make the oil travel further. We all understand that if mechanical ones you simply just shorten the cable to get a responsive grip.
The lever has a reservoir.
I’m thinking the lever has a bladder that expands when more fluid is at the caliper.
Bro why is your voice so therapeutic?
I still cannot understand how do the pistons go back when pushed by tyre lever (for maintenance.. everybody's doing it!). Where does the oil go?
Remember the Brake handle creates the pressure by pushing a pin...once released the pressure is to...the oil doesn't go anywhere the pressure gets relieved...the pads also has a spring
@@rashannbrown5773 you just explained this in a way that makes sense thanks
Clever ⚠️🤧
This is very informative. Btw man can u help me solve my problem in my bike. My rear brake's 1 piston doesnt wanna come out and the other doesnt want to retract. Im really troubled for a week rn. can u help
Can u please help me mann
@@chacklet4542 oiling again may help u
when i've seen this on motorbike it was cause the piston seals had perished (also motorbike pistons were Alu i think and little corrosion made them stick but i see pushbike have ceramic piston so no corrosion). Can you not push moving one back in with a flat blade screwdriver? You should be able to force pistons back in when they come out too far. Maybe somehow clamp moving one to force stuck one to move? But maybe need to replace seals.
check out this vid aobut cleaning the pistons. very helpfull ruclips.net/video/vQXFFgRButo/видео.html
Fab cheers
hello, i had purchased hydraulic break shimano mt201 for my right handle, my old breaks are mechanical disc breaks. But the product i received is designed for left handle but i am used to front break on right, now to mount it on right only way is reverse install i.e bleed tank downside and mount on right side? will this work?
It will work, but bleeding it will be difficult as the bleed valve will be facing down instead of up
@@rogerzheng2814 okay thanks got it, so it does not reduce the effectiveness of the break right?
@@sathish777 In theory there shouldn't be any difference in braking performance. Gravity has very little influence in sealed hydraulic systems, so upside up or upside down doesn't really matter.
@@rogerzheng2814 Thanks much!
i have xtr m9020 caliper.. but they dont split open... how can we change the ceramic disc.
they do, same design as shown here in the video. 2 bolts hold together the two parts of the caliper.
i guess you change them 1 by one,first push one inside and hold it while pulling lever till other poppes out.Then put new one,bleed air out and repeat...
I have m9000 calipers. In theory they should split open but Shimano doesn't want you to do it. Today I tried to split the rear one because it has been sticking a little, but all I did was round the torx head off - it is very soft. I pushed one of the pistons out, as suggested below - the seal remained seated in the caliper.
Really there was not much to see. The piston appeared fairly smooth and I could discern no dirt in the housing. If the sticking gets worse, I shall have to replace it with one of my XT spares.
How did you pull the pistons out?
Two options:
1. Push them out with brake fluid.
2. Air Pressure (be careful, the pistons are made of ceramic and can brake fairly easy)
if you want to rebuild the whole assembly anyway, it would be fastest to simply remove the brake pads and pump the lever until the pistons fall out. will get messy, put a towel around. you can also hold one piston so that only one comes out at a time.
Also I have not been able to source genuine Shimano piston/seal kits for Ultegra ( i believe most Shimano calipers all use the same pistons and seals). All there is out there is cheap knock off kits which I don't trust. Does Shimano even sell a piston/seal kit or do they want us to buy an entire new caliper?
They want you to buy a new caliper, bro.
Get the aftermarket pistons and seals
They don't want the liability of you screwing up your brakes then suing them, or wreckingb their brandv on social media when you complain about their brakes.
Hence, no parts other than pads
@@steveshea7725 well since I posted this question - a year ago, I put the newer Shimano caliper version which is easier to bleed.
@@steveshea7725 The reason they don't sell repair parts - on pretty much everything - is because they have an effective monopoly and force you to buy the entire assembly.
How do the seals pull the pistons inside the caliper?
ruclips.net/video/vQXFFgRButo/видео.html
minute 1:15
@@MasterTricking Thanks very much for the Park Tool Video, but I still can't seem how a rubber seal fixed around the piston can pull the piston back inside. Will ask Park Tool.
@@virkelie2 Notice how the seal is not round, but has sharp edges? Its cross section is effectively a box shape, and its housing is also a very tight fit - as a result, the seal wants to stay where it is and to maintain its shape. When you pull the brake lever, the volume of oil behind the piston expands and the square rubber seal will first be pushed tightly against the piston. Now that the rubber seal has, well, sealed the oil's escape route between the seal and piston, the next outlet for the pressure is for it force the piston itself outward. Once this happens, the piston drags the sharp-edged rubber seal outward with it a bit - the sharp edges of the rubber seal dig into the piston, the seal itself deforms, while at the same time creating an even tighter fit against the piston (cross-section view: you have a box-shaped rubber object (seal) in a box-shaped hole (housing) forced to 'rotate' into a 45 degree angle).
When you release the lever, the rubber seal naturally wants to rotate back, i.e., to return to its original shape, which it does. As the sharp edges of the seal are 'dug in' to the sides of the extended piston, the piston is also pulled back a bit when the seal rotates back to its original shape.
Not an expert, but this is how I see it. :)
@@CodSlap Hey, thanks for your detailed answer!! Now it makes sense to me!
@@virkelie2 Glad to be of help. :)
I came here to know about the brake lever pumping action and the master cylinder :(
Title should be "how a brand of dual piston brake calipers works"
I didn't recognize that it was a bike with all that mud
August 27, 2021
4th sep. 2021 😉
Help me please
After changing to new pads I noticed one side was sticking so took the pistons out, cleaned with alcohol and lubed with the correct Shimano mineral oil fluid. this was from advise from a Park Tool video and now you say same thing. Bled and reassembled no problem but now pistons are not retracting properly. No fluid leaks and no air as lever is not spongy at all. SO RIDDLE ME THIS BATMAN ?? if the piston seals act like springs to retract the pistons back into position then wouldn't lubricating the pistons and seals (with Shimano mineral oil fluid as recommended) interfere with this tensioning/retracting function of the seals?
Did you fix?
@@RegretTV Yes I installed a new caliper. Still rubbed, tolerance is tight then adjusted the disc slightly now seems to work but have not ridden fully due to weather. But it looks master cylinder is not damaged and pistons retract properly. No need to lubricate the pistons - found this stated in Shimano documentation (do not lubricate the pistons!)
@@RegretTV Wanted to follow up. I thought I had fixed but went for a 20 mile ride and rear brakes were still dragging slightly. I removed the shift/brake lever as it seemed to be sticking also and sprayed lube until the lever seemed to reset more freely. I re-read the Shimano Dealer manual on bleeding Ultegra hydraulic brakes. Realized I was bleeding the brakes incorrectly. After patiently allowing the mineral oil to work its way from the funnel and down out the caliper bleed port I got a lot of air out. Then I worked the lever and more bubbles came up. I did not force fluid up through the brake lines with a syringe, which is the way I did it previously and was what I saw on other youtube videos. Even though my brake lever was tight (but dragging) there must have been air in the caliper preventing the pistons from retracting. Anyway, it took a while to get all the bubbles out. I opened up the bleed port a few more times and some fluid would drain. then fill the cup and repeat. Eventually the lever firmed up AND the pistons now behave as they should. No more drag. hope this helps somebody.
@@halfglassfullYou're right about air trapped in the system. Gravity bleeding works best, and also flushes the line and cylinders where the pistons sit.
How did you come up with the idea to cover almost every part of the bike with dirt so that inexperienced users could not see the entire system?
There was mud obscuring things for 50s. He went into great detail with very clear pictures of clean parts in the rest of the video.
I found it very informative, yielding a good understanding of how the hydraulic fluid is dispersed to both sides and the path bleeding would use.
@@ttb1513 He actually had the original brake, but he had a second one that he disassembled to remind the viewer where that part fits in the overall assembled unit. Great teaching technique.
Where the f did you went with the poor bike
I did thousand times what you say in the video, the pistons didn't work equavalent, I cleaned them, oiled them and then assamble and filled the brake oil, but when I push the brake they are still didn't go further equavalent and didn't go back. I don't mean they didn't go back equavalent too, I mean they didn't go back!
when I look at the pistons they really some dirty, and I can't clean them because the burned oil on them is didn't able to get cleaned, it's already a part of the pistons, I'm not sure it's oil, maybe it's the burned gasket on the pistons, when I look at the gaskets they have enough altitude from caliper to hold pistons tight, but it still didn't work very well and I can hear the sound of flow of air from pistons when I brake.
so I want to ask that; is this problem because of pistons are dirty ? should I change them or is the problem because of gaskets didn't have enough altitude ?
I would suggest you see a shop local to you that will show you how to service your brakes and sell you the tools you may not have to fully finish it. Find a pro bike mechanic you like that will teach you and save you when you screw up 🤣
@@heathenshaunt681 I completely understand how to work an hydraulic brake dude, that's not that hard.. the system just have an issue with gaskets. I changed the gaskets and pistons but I know they will got the same problem when they get heat, So this is not about me, this is a weakness of the system. they will broke again after a while
@@enayi I was just giving the safest reply I could since stopping is crucial and I know I will not go back to something else after having them life changing 😆
Did you fix same problem
@@RegretTV nope! I changed everything but I know it will be same after a while, I'm workin on a new brake system 😅, pistons and gaskets are power and weakness of the system in the same time 🤷🏼
What?😂
Thanks. I now understand why I should not choose disk brakes for a road bike! This technology is just too complicated and heavy for situations where rim brakes are good enough. Many points of potential leakage at o-rings, seals, hoses and parts to change.
Cable disk brakes have none of these issues, they do need more frequent adjustment however and have enough power for most situations.
You are a Little stupid. Honestly
@@0ShortsKing0 good to know ones limitations though.
@@poxcr Some commenters think the word complicated refers to the fact that I have difficulty understanding how the brake works. When I say it is complicated it means that it is not an elegant solution to a simple problem. A rim brake does not need a cooling system for fluid, has a larger braking surface, weighs less and has fewer parts. The fork can be more compliant at the axle, which makes for a smoother ride. It is more fault tolerant, meaning that after a minor crash, there will be no warped rotor, and that wheel changes between different brands are simpler, as there is no rotor to align within millimeters. If I buy a bike with tires larger than 28mm, it will be a disk version. But for road racing, and riding in good weather and air travel, I think rim brake is better.
I hate my Hydraulic brakes.
Why dude☹️
I have to say hydraulic disc on a bike has been so nice you stop instantly when you see dumb cars coming at you not 30 feet to late
@Ellen Brown Manufacturers have made such "advances" making bikes more sophisticated, relatively safer, efficient and capable. Obviously this comes at a cost to consumers. I love my 2019 Ultegra road bike... until it breaks. Then I long for a return to the crude but working tech on my 20 year old bike with rim brakes and cables shifters.
I agree. Hydraulic brakes suck.
Make your disc brakes work with a 5 minute bike wash, your welcome
Home maintenance will be a nightmare 😭😭😭
Was going to watch, but couldn't wait the 1/2 hour for you to finish cleaning the bike.
The guy put some thought and care into making this video. I found it really helpful. If you don't like it, fine, but why leave such a dumb comment, why not just move along?
@@rc2257 Because if nobody teaches, generally nobody learns.
Think more about things, and everything won't appear "dumb".
URGENT: RUclips has stopped sending email notifications for any new videos for any channels you are subscribed to! Creators Need To Fight Back!
But thank that I know hydraulic brake work
Before I actually watch your video, Wash your bike man! Even tho the hydraulics less maintenance, you still have to clean it..
Bro clean your bike first before doing you a blogging
Better clean the bike first and then make a video omg
Bro clean your bike before bringing it indoors🤮🤮
I’ve some xt brakes that need servicing, I thought you couldn’t open them to service? are the seals available to buy?