More videos like this please! I see so many riders that could benefit from better setup. Once a rider is on a good setup its so fun to see their riding exude confidence!
I have a short, 35mm stem and 800mm stock bars but I feel like I am awkwardly too far back and leaned forward w/ 42mm fork offset. I am looking into possibly switching to a 50mm stem with 760mm E90 Carbon bars. Would it potentially be a good idea to get a 51mm offset fork (which I found an upgrade for a really good deal) during all of this? I am fishing around for opinions
Who wrote the script? This is the most original, forward thinking structure to deliver a tutorial I've seen in years, including photography editing. Very high level staff involved.
I completely agree with your video. I started mtb riding, three months ago at the age of 60. I am partially handicapped in my legs. The first month, my hand became completely numb. I was not comfortable sitting so forward leaning. I could not look backwards comfortably. Especially when I want to change a lane. I am a casual rider, all terrain, bust mostly urban. I purchased a 120mm high rize bar. I can adjust my weight forward by leaning the handlebar forward or banckwards. It has a 3° upper angle and a 9° rear angle. I am now so comfortable on the bike now. My hands don't go numb. I can look backwards comfortably. I am also unable to pedal standing due to my handicap. However, my pedalling is now more powerfull. I only noticed that I can go in wheely position easier on very steep hills. My pedalling is now more powerfull. I can outrun some younger people. Backpain and pains in my knees and legs are gone. I am a little more upright and can see better. The best choice I ever made. Total comfort.
This had the feeling of Ari Henning from Revzilla and that is a huge compliment for bith Christine and Ari. You're both terrific presenters of information that you are clearly passionate about without coming across as the end all be all.
I've tested 40, 50, 60mm stems and various bar widths. 50mm turned out to be a good compromise and enables front wheel awareness on a really slack bike. Narrower bars eased shoulder blade pain on hard compressions and reduced clipping trees allowing higher speed and more leaning. Wide bar and shorter stem is clip city on narrower trails. Best wrist pain reduction was from switching to a 12 degree back sweep, way stronger wrist alignment. Fat grips for sure. Dialing the cockpit is so important.
I've also found bar height can quite easily effect front end grip especially on flatter corners, too high and there's not enough weight on the front, too low and there's too much weight on the front.
Thanks for this. I've been playing around with these things for a while, still have yet to find my ideal setup. Another thing that I spent a good bit fussing with that wasn't covered here is sweep. Like the PNW range bars back sweep. I've found it helps with wrist and body position personally, and I liked it a lot more than the shorter stem which I wasn't a fan of. I wish this video had been out a year or so ago when I was just starting to learn about all of this (and I'm still learning) because you've summed up much of what took me weeks to read about in 12 minutes.
Christina, I pulled up this video and 4 others to watch and just "X-ed" out of the others, no need. You covered everything in detail with an amazing explanation of why. Thank you, you're awesome and yeah hope to see you on a trail one day. Be easy @PinkBike
Christina really nails it! Covering all these overlapping adjustments and breaking it down in digestible form. It takes time to absorb these little changes we make on our bikes as we strive for the ideal. This vid reminds me these little changes are important and we can hone are position to our current riding style. I knew all this stuff sort of but this instruction really brought it home for me.
Lots of info there, worth another watch or two even. I've always been surprised with how much the smallest change of bar position completely changes the feel of the bike.
First off, great stuff. You covered most of it. But here is some more info. 8:13 That bar was defenitly rotated too low. but I fond somewhere between the T rex position and more common position is what works best for me, flat to flatish brake levers, relaxed arms, hands resting on the grips. Aka Yoann Barelli setup. But tall enough handlebar and long enough reach is needed. But combine it's great. 10:55 For grip diameter I recommend to make a circle with thumb and index finger and measure the diameter, this will give the grip diameter that fits you. I measure at 34mm, so that's what i go for. I don't use the grip diameter to adjust the reach or brake feel. I adjust the brakes reach and that's it. But my current brakes don't have any other adjustments. But I like them grabby. A thing you forgot to mention is back sweep, people can have different hand grip angles, so get a bar that suits this, mine suit most bars, the 8, 9, 10 deg would work for me. But some need more.
Christina is a treasure! Struggling with a 73° seat tube angle on a 2019 Enduro bike, never thought I could bring the saddle forward to compensate. However I really can't since having a saddle all the way back and a 50mm stem my XL Spectral is still a bit short for me.
Great video. So much of fit comes down to your body shape and proportions. I do think that trying to find a bike that "feels" close to your fit is a good starting point, then it is more fine tuning. Different manufactures have very different fit philosophies so it is good to sit on or try a bunch and see what is the best initial fit for you. Thanks PB
She talks about bar roll and demonstrates positioning with brakes in constant position. Brakes should move opposite to bar roll to maintain wrist position. Brake position can also contribute a lot to what she mentions about the feeling of going over the bars under hard braking. Many people position their brakes angled too far down (and brake reach too far out at full pull which can contribute to forearm pump).
In regards to bar roll at 7:40 your wrists don't want to rotate around the bar, or feel like you have less to brace against when you roll the bar forward, because your hands aren't glued to the bar, they don't rotate with the bar like you did in the video, bar roll is mostly about getting the the angle of the bar feeling right.
Fantastic video. Thank you for putting in such a deep dive on this topic. I particularly liked the images of the very subtle changes of the components and how they will affect geometry and body position.
We just did an experiment, used a 70mm rise bar with 5° upsweep and 12° backsweep. Combined with a 50mm stem. Rolled the bar 5° to completely eliminate the upsweep and the result was amazing! The bike felt so planted, comfortable, precise. Wrist pain was eliminated and shoulders were destressed. Bunny hops became easier, wheelies became easier and at the same time, it was easier to climb and remain in control on fast descents. Best of both worlds. Hands are further front but without the chest being hunched over the steerer tube. It was so weird but in a good way. Basically we got a bike version of Hondas NC750X
Thank you. I just started riding in September and this video and your very clear step by step breakdowns of what each change may do was so helpful. This video helped me pinpoint what I was feeling out on the trail and enabled me to select a bar that now feels amazing. I went with a Deity Racepoint 38 rise and I slightly narrowed my bar width to really dial in my cockpit for my riding style. I have played slightly with bar roll as you described and it can make pretty amazing changes in feel. I focused on one change at a time. First rise. Then bar width. Then some roll changes. I have found my nice balance point.
Great video!! Never realized how much of a difference it makes! I’ve been having trouble with numb painful hands. Gonna play around with different stems and angles. Thanks
Great video. I impulse bought a bike back during the Covid shortage that I learned might be too big, so it’s been a constant part swap and adjustments to make it fit better over the years. Awesome info
Great stuff. Manuals, Bunnyhops, all behave very different when changing stack heights, reach and bar-roll ... and can sometimes be the answer for why you struggle with them
Ahh... this explains everything for me hahah but seriously, so true. On the dirt jumper I really love a good high rise bar with those crazy tiny wheels for example -Christina
Incredible video. I have always had a nagging curiosity about making some of these tweaks to my setup to better fit my frame. I’m in between L/XL frame size, i went with the L frame and haven’t had any issues and love my bike but have always felt like I could make a few tweaks to get it more suited to me, but never really understood what effect each tweak would have! Thank you so much for this video!
This is great info! I used to do a lot of long-distance XC and suffered from really bad back, perineum (sorry TMI), and hand pain. I was amazed how a few simple geo/set-up changes massively improved this. This video isn't just nerd-out stuff, it's really valuable!
very useful tips! and yes the best ideea is: TEST IT, experiment since everyone is unique. It is much easier to find what works when I understand some basic principles and then play with the variables.
Great video, covers a lot of things I learnt the hard way because I didn't have a video like this to watch when I was starting out! Being in between M and L sizes for most bikes I'm often tinkering with setup to get a good fit.
I just finished upgrading my 2014 SC Tallboy. New wider (800mm) higher rise bars, shorter stem, shorter cranks (165 mm now-size L) sliding the saddle back and installing a new 1x12 drivetrain. Oh and new brakes. Feels like a new bike.
You are right, ergonomics and preference for everyone is different. I'm 5'6" (5'7" on a good day), 140lbs. butt naked with a 30" inseam. I prefer a 460 reach mostly. I like a 760mm short rise bars and shortest stem, usually 32mm, that'll fits with minimum stem spacers under stem. I use this same setup on XC, Trail, and Enduro. BB drop, crank length (prefer 155 but mainly use 165mm) and stack height difference between each type of bike will dictate grip to seat height difference which fits those specific type of bike/riding. Distance from saddle to bars is dictated by STA, HTA, seat rail, and bar sweep. I used to like shorter for playfulness but as I gotten older prefer longer more stable.
Bought a DEITY bars , the riser alu...superbe and it did changed the quality and feel of the rides compared to the original one, and i don t feel my back hurting after 2 hours on the saddle . It is actually very good at damping the vibrations too. Definitely worth the money , that was hard to spend another $$$ in my bike, but now, i feel like i am riding the bike i want, The stem is tempting , but i feel like i can wait a bit to spend more in bling for not much more than looking good. My geometry and numbers are there , i think.
Well thought out video. Would like to add one thing as a correct seat position is paramount for preventing knee injuries and maximizing your pedal stroke. You don't just move it willy nilly as that can cause issues. Thats first and foremost. Once that position is dialed then finding your correct bar/stem combo is a matter of everything stated in this video with regards to personal feel, riding style, terrain, etc.
So what is the correct fore aft position? because it used to be hang a plumb bob from just below your knee and it should intersect the pedal axle, but now that seems to have gone out the window as manufacturers keep making their seat tube angles steeper.
@@benjy288 Yes, as a good rule of thumb, that is correct. There's a reason why the UCI has limits how far forward a seat can be. It can lend itself to knee issues. Find the soft spot behind your Patella and drop down to the center of the pedal axle. Knee bend should be around 10 degrees. You'll know if it's too high or low because there may be knee discomfort in the front(too low) or back(too high) of the knee. I think generally you can still achieve a correct seat position with most seat angles. XC and trail models are still a bit slacker and achievable but once you hit enduro bikes it could become an issue. Those bikes aren't really designed to climb anyway despite what reviewers say. I could be wrong but in order to achieve lower BB heights crank arms are also being shortened, resulting in diminished pedaling efficiency. All depends what you're looking for I suppose.
@@crestedbuttetrails3214 I mentioned that to some sales guy in my local shop a while ago and he said that's long gone, lol, who knows, but I do know that when I try that on my current short travel trail bike which is only a few years old the line is more inline with the front of the pedal body, and its not to small for me either, its a large and I'm 5'10, so it seems manufacturers have abandoned that principle.
We are all profoundly different. For example, I built a a high power e-mtb from Cannondale XL frame which came with about a 50mm stem. I don't ride knarly trails. I am a roadie. I can't stand a cramped position. I like to ride stretched out. Many at 6'1" would ride a size L frame with 50mm stem. Not me. I ride a XL with 130mm stem as long stems and narrower bars used to be the norm 30 years ago on the mtb'ing scene. Go with what feels best. Because I come from the world of riding a roadbike stretched out, riding cramped to me feels awful and I can't get my glutes into my stroke. Yes, stem length and handlebar width matter 'a lot'. PS. for those interested, many believe the greatest mountain biker of all time was John Tomac. He rode with a very long stem with rise FWIW.
Smart stuff! much appreciated, bin thinking for a while that I’m not getting enough positive tyre grip vibes back to me + what t heck can I do about it (experiment!)… thoughtful stuff/ well presented.
The best improvement I ever made was going to Pro Taper A76 riser bars. My MTB feels more like my motocross bike and OTB accidents never happen anymore. Everyone that rides my bike wants to switch their bars afterwards.
Every time I ride, the song of my knees always reminds me of that excellent film quote: "RIPLEY!! YOU'VE BLOWN THE TRANSAXLE! YOU'RE JUST GRINDING METAL!"
The width of handlebar also seems to affect how well you can gap drop. Too wide a bar and we lose the body-bike separation. Too narrow a bar and we're too separated from the bike. I wonder what a suspension kinematics engineers would say about bar width to arm "linkage" ratios 🤔
When it comes to saddle setback...you can only move it so far back...or forward before it messes with your pedaling position. For me its the feel is my knees. Too far forward or back...I can feel the strain on my knees.
Hey Pinkbike, nice vid! But is this also possible for Tall guys? I‘m 77,95 inch tall, and 231 pounds full of mass…. So a 31,49 wide handlebar is standard for me….. also a coil damper than a air…. So for lighter and smaller guys it‘s possible to test some adjustments, but I ride on the edge…. 😂
swapped my stock 50mm stem for a 35 3 years ago as I felt like I was being pulled too far over the bars on steep stuff. after a wrist injury I carried on with the 35 but felt I needed the extra leverage of the 50 back on to take some of the force out and changed back a month ago. but having done that the front now feels odd at times, some of the intuitive steering has gone, I'm going wide on turns, I thought by now I'd be used to the stock stem again but it seems not, I also now lack some mobility in the wrist so maybe I can't throw the extra lever around.
This is probably the most important thing to figure out for yourself as a mountain bike rider. I’ve accumulated many bars and stems over the years to figure this out and it was the best money spent to improve my riding comfort and general riding ability.
went from a L XC 120mm mtb to a M trail/enduro 170mm emtb expectedly the saddle was too low by default I'm 6ft (need the possibility to seat lower going steep dh and I do want something more akin to a bmx for that fun bike) will be fixed by changing the fox transfer but the handlebar being too low is a problem, didn't really feel it while riding (21miles 2900ft) but ouch my lower back the next day, reach is the correct distance great handling as is but I was way too much on the front can't see myself continuing as is riser bar it is then because I'm missing a good 40mm (also lifting the front before a 12" drop downhill seemed almost impossible)
![[#2024MAMA] BIGBANG (빅뱅) - 뱅뱅뱅 (BANG BANG BANG) + FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQsYfiPR9uM/mqdefault.jpg)
definitely one of, if not the best fit tutorials I ever seen, thanks Christina! 👍
It was in-depth alright! But covered nearrrly all of it, thanks -Christina
God darn Deity surely knows how to make perfect advertising without telling it’s advertising
More videos like this please! I see so many riders that could benefit from better setup. Once a rider is on a good setup its so fun to see their riding exude confidence!
Agreed, it's the little things for sure that really add up and create comfort/control -Christina
I have a short, 35mm stem and 800mm stock bars but I feel like I am awkwardly too far back and leaned forward w/ 42mm fork offset.
I am looking into possibly switching to a 50mm stem with 760mm E90 Carbon bars. Would it potentially be a good idea to get a 51mm offset fork (which I found an upgrade for a really good deal) during all of this? I am fishing around for opinions
Who wrote the script? This is the most original, forward thinking structure to deliver a tutorial I've seen in years, including photography editing. Very high level staff involved.
pinkbike is such an incredible resource for this kind of information - thank you! Ben Cathro's "how to bike" is also a goldmine of information.
Cheers! We appreciate that. Will keep at it -Christina
I completely agree with your video. I started mtb riding, three months ago at the age of 60. I am partially handicapped in my legs.
The first month, my hand became completely numb. I was not comfortable sitting so forward leaning. I could not look backwards comfortably. Especially when I want to change a lane. I am a casual rider, all terrain, bust mostly urban.
I purchased a 120mm high rize bar. I can adjust my weight forward by leaning the handlebar forward or banckwards. It has a 3° upper angle and a 9° rear angle.
I am now so comfortable on the bike now. My hands don't go numb. I can look backwards comfortably.
I am also unable to pedal standing due to my handicap.
However, my pedalling is now more powerfull. I only noticed that I can go in wheely position easier on very steep hills. My pedalling is now more powerfull. I can outrun some younger people.
Backpain and pains in my knees and legs are gone.
I am a little more upright and can see better.
The best choice I ever made. Total comfort.
I've watched a crapload of fit videos and this one blows them all out of the water, well done 🍻
This had the feeling of Ari Henning from Revzilla and that is a huge compliment for bith Christine and Ari. You're both terrific presenters of information that you are clearly passionate about without coming across as the end all be all.
Really good stuff here. A lot was covered so I am sure many people will need to rewatch this a few times.
Ty shad for linking this video in your community tab👍🏻
Yes! More Christina. Most riders are on frames too big. 👍
Thank you! -Christina
I've tested 40, 50, 60mm stems and various bar widths. 50mm turned out to be a good compromise and enables front wheel awareness on a really slack bike. Narrower bars eased shoulder blade pain on hard compressions and reduced clipping trees allowing higher speed and more leaning. Wide bar and shorter stem is clip city on narrower trails. Best wrist pain reduction was from switching to a 12 degree back sweep, way stronger wrist alignment. Fat grips for sure. Dialing the cockpit is so important.
I've also found bar height can quite easily effect front end grip especially on flatter corners, too high and there's not enough weight on the front, too low and there's too much weight on the front.
Great rundown on this. Took me 2000+ miles to realise what a difference these components can make!
Thanks for this. I've been playing around with these things for a while, still have yet to find my ideal setup. Another thing that I spent a good bit fussing with that wasn't covered here is sweep. Like the PNW range bars back sweep. I've found it helps with wrist and body position personally, and I liked it a lot more than the shorter stem which I wasn't a fan of.
I wish this video had been out a year or so ago when I was just starting to learn about all of this (and I'm still learning) because you've summed up much of what took me weeks to read about in 12 minutes.
Christina, I pulled up this video and 4 others to watch and just "X-ed" out of the others, no need. You covered everything in detail with an amazing explanation of why. Thank you, you're awesome and yeah hope to see you on a trail one day. Be easy @PinkBike
Agreed! Fantastic info for dialing in bike fit!
One of the most comprehensive and helpful videos I’ve come across here in Pinkbike. Thanks Christina!
More videos like this with Christina! She does an outstanding job explaining things. Great job guys.
Christina really nails it! Covering all these overlapping adjustments and breaking it down in digestible form. It takes time to absorb these little changes we make on our bikes as we strive for the ideal. This vid reminds me these little changes are important and we can hone are position to our current riding style.
I knew all this stuff sort of but this instruction really brought it home for me.
Lots of info there, worth another watch or two even. I've always been surprised with how much the smallest change of bar position completely changes the feel of the bike.
Christina love your tutorials, straightforward and to the point.
One of the best, if not the best bike fit/adjustment video. Cristina was awesome! Thank you for your time and effort!
First off, great stuff. You covered most of it.
But here is some more info.
8:13 That bar was defenitly rotated too low. but I fond somewhere between the T rex position and more common position is what works best for me, flat to flatish brake levers, relaxed arms, hands resting on the grips. Aka Yoann Barelli setup. But tall enough handlebar and long enough reach is needed. But combine it's great.
10:55 For grip diameter I recommend to make a circle with thumb and index finger and measure the diameter, this will give the grip diameter that fits you. I measure at 34mm, so that's what i go for.
I don't use the grip diameter to adjust the reach or brake feel. I adjust the brakes reach and that's it. But my current brakes don't have any other adjustments. But I like them grabby.
A thing you forgot to mention is back sweep, people can have different hand grip angles, so get a bar that suits this, mine suit most bars, the 8, 9, 10 deg would work for me. But some need more.
Christina is a treasure! Struggling with a 73° seat tube angle on a 2019 Enduro bike, never thought I could bring the saddle forward to compensate. However I really can't since having a saddle all the way back and a 50mm stem my XL Spectral is still a bit short for me.
Look for a longer frame xl bike. They are not all the same.
Great video. So much of fit comes down to your body shape and proportions. I do think that trying to find a bike that "feels" close to your fit is a good starting point, then it is more fine tuning. Different manufactures have very different fit philosophies so it is good to sit on or try a bunch and see what is the best initial fit for you. Thanks PB
She talks about bar roll and demonstrates positioning with brakes in constant position. Brakes should move opposite to bar roll to maintain wrist position. Brake position can also contribute a lot to what she mentions about the feeling of going over the bars under hard braking. Many people position their brakes angled too far down (and brake reach too far out at full pull which can contribute to forearm pump).
In regards to bar roll at 7:40 your wrists don't want to rotate around the bar, or feel like you have less to brace against when you roll the bar forward, because your hands aren't glued to the bar, they don't rotate with the bar like you did in the video, bar roll is mostly about getting the the angle of the bar feeling right.
Fantastic video. Thank you for putting in such a deep dive on this topic. I particularly liked the images of the very subtle changes of the components and how they will affect geometry and body position.
We just did an experiment, used a 70mm rise bar with 5° upsweep and 12° backsweep. Combined with a 50mm stem. Rolled the bar 5° to completely eliminate the upsweep and the result was amazing! The bike felt so planted, comfortable, precise. Wrist pain was eliminated and shoulders were destressed. Bunny hops became easier, wheelies became easier and at the same time, it was easier to climb and remain in control on fast descents. Best of both worlds. Hands are further front but without the chest being hunched over the steerer tube. It was so weird but in a good way. Basically we got a bike version of Hondas NC750X
Thank you. I just started riding in September and this video and your very clear step by step breakdowns of what each change may do was so helpful. This video helped me pinpoint what I was feeling out on the trail and enabled me to select a bar that now feels amazing. I went with a Deity Racepoint 38 rise and I slightly narrowed my bar width to really dial in my cockpit for my riding style. I have played slightly with bar roll as you described and it can make pretty amazing changes in feel. I focused on one change at a time. First rise. Then bar width. Then some roll changes. I have found my nice balance point.
Proper explanation about these significant parameters and their interdependency involved in body position.
Great video!! Never realized how much of a difference it makes! I’ve been having trouble with numb painful hands. Gonna play around with different stems and angles. Thanks
Great video. I impulse bought a bike back during the Covid shortage that I learned might be too big, so it’s been a constant part swap and adjustments to make it fit better over the years. Awesome info
Exactly the person we were hoping to reach! We've all been there. Hope it's nearly perfect now -Christina
Great stuff. Manuals, Bunnyhops, all behave very different when changing stack heights, reach and bar-roll ... and can sometimes be the answer for why you struggle with them
Ahh... this explains everything for me hahah but seriously, so true. On the dirt jumper I really love a good high rise bar with those crazy tiny wheels for example -Christina
Incredible video. I have always had a nagging curiosity about making some of these tweaks to my setup to better fit my frame. I’m in between L/XL frame size, i went with the L frame and haven’t had any issues and love my bike but have always felt like I could make a few tweaks to get it more suited to me, but never really understood what effect each tweak would have! Thank you so much for this video!
This is great info! I used to do a lot of long-distance XC and suffered from really bad back, perineum (sorry TMI), and hand pain. I was amazed how a few simple geo/set-up changes massively improved this. This video isn't just nerd-out stuff, it's really valuable!
Best explanation I've found so far! Great job!
Very nicely done! Thank you. So many fit videos, but few have addressed this aspect of overall fit.
perfect use of the tale to visualize position changes!
very useful tips! and yes the best ideea is: TEST IT, experiment since everyone is unique. It is much easier to find what works when I understand some basic principles and then play with the variables.
Great video, covers a lot of things I learnt the hard way because I didn't have a video like this to watch when I was starting out! Being in between M and L sizes for most bikes I'm often tinkering with setup to get a good fit.
Interestingly enough, Trek and others keep pushing the bar-stem carbon combo with zero adjustment. Now the tutorial, super practical, thank guys.
I just finished upgrading my 2014 SC Tallboy.
New wider (800mm) higher rise bars, shorter stem, shorter cranks (165 mm now-size L) sliding the saddle back and installing a new 1x12 drivetrain. Oh and new brakes. Feels like a new bike.
Tons of variables here. Adjusting bar roll also changes up sweep and back sweep which could negate the very angles you want.
You are right, ergonomics and preference for everyone is different. I'm 5'6" (5'7" on a good day), 140lbs. butt naked with a 30" inseam. I prefer a 460 reach mostly. I like a 760mm short rise bars and shortest stem, usually 32mm, that'll fits with minimum stem spacers under stem. I use this same setup on XC, Trail, and Enduro. BB drop, crank length (prefer 155 but mainly use 165mm) and stack height difference between each type of bike will dictate grip to seat height difference which fits those specific type of bike/riding. Distance from saddle to bars is dictated by STA, HTA, seat rail, and bar sweep. I used to like shorter for playfulness but as I gotten older prefer longer more stable.
Shorter stems and slightly taller bars are the future. Oh and flatter brake levers 😜
I changed my 70mm stem to 50mm and it changed my riding big time. Thanks!
One thing I discovered is that as I approach 50, higher bars/stack help greatly with arm overuse injuries.
This video is amazing and you're an awesome presenter Christina. Thank you for this!
Best Pinkbike video ever. Nice work. Thank you.
Cheers! Thanks so much, stoked you enjoyed it -Christina
Bought a DEITY bars , the riser alu...superbe and it did changed the quality and feel of the rides compared to the original one, and i don t feel my back hurting after 2 hours on the saddle . It is actually very good at damping the vibrations too. Definitely worth the money , that was hard to spend another $$$ in my bike, but now, i feel like i am riding the bike i want,
The stem is tempting , but i feel like i can wait a bit to spend more in bling for not much more than looking good. My geometry and numbers are there , i think.
Well thought out video. Would like to add one thing as a correct seat position is paramount for preventing knee injuries and maximizing your pedal stroke. You don't just move it willy nilly as that can cause issues. Thats first and foremost. Once that position is dialed then finding your correct bar/stem combo is a matter of everything stated in this video with regards to personal feel, riding style, terrain, etc.
So what is the correct fore aft position? because it used to be hang a plumb bob from just below your knee and it should intersect the pedal axle, but now that seems to have gone out the window as manufacturers keep making their seat tube angles steeper.
@@benjy288 Yes, as a good rule of thumb, that is correct. There's a reason why the UCI has limits how far forward a seat can be. It can lend itself to knee issues. Find the soft spot behind your Patella and drop down to the center of the pedal axle. Knee bend should be around 10 degrees. You'll know if it's too high or low because there may be knee discomfort in the front(too low) or back(too high) of the knee. I think generally you can still achieve a correct seat position with most seat angles. XC and trail models are still a bit slacker and achievable but once you hit enduro bikes it could become an issue. Those bikes aren't really designed to climb anyway despite what reviewers say. I could be wrong but in order to achieve lower BB heights crank arms are also being shortened, resulting in diminished pedaling efficiency. All depends what you're looking for I suppose.
@@crestedbuttetrails3214 I mentioned that to some sales guy in my local shop a while ago and he said that's long gone, lol, who knows, but I do know that when I try that on my current short travel trail bike which is only a few years old the line is more inline with the front of the pedal body, and its not to small for me either, its a large and I'm 5'10, so it seems manufacturers have abandoned that principle.
Wow great video. Every new biker needs to watch this
Cheers! -Christina
Finally someone got the details right. Great job!!!!
Excellent video, thank you Christina
You are the best making these very detailed videos!
I subbed because of this video. Excellent information and delivery.
Lots of infos in that video! Thank you! I’ll have to watch it again and again and experiment with my bike settings!
1. This is a great video.
2. This is also clearly an ad for Christina's gym. Goals 💪💪
HA! Retirement plan sorted, thank you! -Christina
Wow this was an extremely helpful video. Best video about bike fit I have seen.
Thank you! I appreciate that a lot -Christina
By far the best explanation of handlebar and stem geometry.
A must subscribe to this channel🍀
I really enjoy these geometry videos. Also, really well explained with the examples!
3rd video I’ve seen by this presenter. Great info. She’s solid!
First time I’ve heard the term bar roll. I’ve always been very picky with that but never knew it had a name! Cool!
LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS EPISODE!!! Thanks Christina- you rock!
Keep these coming CC all of these setup tips are super good, THANKS!!!🤠
this is the best informative video ever about cockpit setup! its so intense.
It really was intense haha thanks for appreciating that -Christina
@@pinkbike ow I can't believe you respond to me Christina! I got starstruck, I'm a big fan! woohoo!!!
We are all profoundly different. For example, I built a a high power e-mtb from Cannondale XL frame which came with about a 50mm stem. I don't ride knarly trails. I am a roadie. I can't stand a cramped position. I like to ride stretched out. Many at 6'1" would ride a size L frame with 50mm stem. Not me. I ride a XL with 130mm stem as long stems and narrower bars used to be the norm 30 years ago on the mtb'ing scene.
Go with what feels best. Because I come from the world of riding a roadbike stretched out, riding cramped to me feels awful and I can't get my glutes into my stroke.
Yes, stem length and handlebar width matter 'a lot'.
PS. for those interested, many believe the greatest mountain biker of all time was John Tomac. He rode with a very long stem with rise FWIW.
Absolutely love my Deity black label bars. I run 760 though. I have them on my Commencal Tempo Öhlins Edition and it's amazing
Smart stuff! much appreciated, bin thinking for a while that I’m not getting enough positive tyre grip vibes back to me + what t heck can I do about it (experiment!)… thoughtful stuff/ well presented.
Great info! people still base a lot of these on info given in a article from 2005
Great job, first video I've seen that brings it all together.
This is an excellent comprehensive video!
This is soo accurate and interesting! Thank you for such quality content.
Cheers! it was a lot to fit into 1 video so I'm stoked you enjoyed it -Christina
Yeah that’s amazing how many things there are to say only for the cockpit! Thanks again
This is a fantastic video. Well done!
The best improvement I ever made was going to Pro Taper A76 riser bars. My MTB feels more like my motocross bike and OTB accidents never happen anymore.
Everyone that rides my bike wants to switch their bars afterwards.
Thanks for the video and greetings from Mexico
2:12 most beautiful shot all year!
HA! The jiggly arms? Thanks -Christina
Really helpful advice. Will review my bike setup.
You covered it. Great pace too. Thanks!
Such a great video!
Every time I ride, the song of my knees always reminds me of that excellent film quote: "RIPLEY!! YOU'VE BLOWN THE TRANSAXLE! YOU'RE JUST GRINDING METAL!"
One of the best movies!
What a great video. Videos like these are why I watch & subscribed to pinkbike. 😃🤙🏾
Thank you! Quite in-depth so I'm glad you gained something from this one -Christina
Now I'm really confused, if I just cut my frame to shorten or lengthen it, that should cut out all the vast array of adjustments.
Great video thanks.
YES! I mean, I don't condone this but what if LOL -Christina
Great job! Sharing this with all my riding friends.
Cheers for that! Glad you enjoyed and see the benefit -Christina
Great vid.
Ps. Those are some impressive guns Christina! 🔥🔥🔥👊🏼
The width of handlebar also seems to affect how well you can gap drop. Too wide a bar and we lose the body-bike separation. Too narrow a bar and we're too separated from the bike. I wonder what a suspension kinematics engineers would say about bar width to arm "linkage" ratios 🤔
Great presentation, kudos👍
Great work with this video!
When it comes to saddle setback...you can only move it so far back...or forward before it messes with your pedaling position. For me its the feel is my knees. Too far forward or back...I can feel the strain on my knees.
Hey Pinkbike, nice vid! But is this also possible for Tall guys? I‘m 77,95 inch tall, and 231 pounds full of mass…. So a 31,49 wide handlebar is standard for me….. also a coil damper than a air…. So for lighter and smaller guys it‘s possible to test some adjustments, but I ride on the edge…. 😂
You say it plain and simple.
Wow, so good explaind! Thank you!
Thanks beautiful. Love the tips.
Excellent! I love these geeky videos!👨🎓
nice content. and no ads in the middle.
adjustable stem on the move would be a good invention,
Yo! what if....Still don't think I'd try that though -Christina
Super informative video.
swapped my stock 50mm stem for a 35 3 years ago as I felt like I was being pulled too far over the bars on steep stuff.
after a wrist injury I carried on with the 35 but felt I needed the extra leverage of the 50 back on to take some of the force out and changed back a month ago.
but having done that the front now feels odd at times, some of the intuitive steering has gone, I'm going wide on turns, I thought by now I'd be used to the stock stem again but it seems not, I also now lack some mobility in the wrist so maybe I can't throw the extra lever around.
Wow, what a fantastic video. Great content.
Cheers! Thanks for the positive feedback -Christina
This is probably the most important thing to figure out for yourself as a mountain bike rider. I’ve accumulated many bars and stems over the years to figure this out and it was the best money spent to improve my riding comfort and general riding ability.
went from a L XC 120mm mtb to a M trail/enduro 170mm emtb expectedly the saddle was too low by default I'm 6ft (need the possibility to seat lower going steep dh and I do want something more akin to a bmx for that fun bike) will be fixed by changing the fox transfer but the handlebar being too low is a problem, didn't really feel it while riding (21miles 2900ft) but ouch my lower back the next day, reach is the correct distance great handling as is but I was way too much on the front can't see myself continuing as is riser bar it is then because I'm missing a good 40mm (also lifting the front before a 12" drop downhill seemed almost impossible)