Came from a hardtail with narrow bars, never had any aches, bought a new bike a few months back with 780mm bars. For the first month of riding I had wrist ache and my inner thumbs felt "Bruised" and I would subconsciously move my hands right to the inside of the grip and I wouldn't realise until I went to change gear and had to move my hand. Came across this vid, did the formulae, I'm only 5' 6"-ish and my width came to 740mm, cut the bars down to that, and even though it's literally only an inch off each end, it's became a lot more comfortable to ride, I'm more upright, cornering feels better and I feel more in control at lower speeds...Thanx Guys.
I don't get why the formula is based on height, what if the person is tall but has narrow shoulders or vice versa? Or if the person has long or shorter arms
Yeah it doesn’t make sense. I’m 194cm tall and my max bar width is supposed to be 853.6mm. I’m currently using 780mm and I’m thinking about making them more narrow
Because it's obviously just a rough estimate, and body height is easy to measure. Much more so than to find the middle of you shoulder joints to measure their distance. Also, while obviously there are different physiques, ROUGHLY shoulder with DOES go with body height. Also, the formula is mentioned give you the MAXIMUM bar width.
For "carbon", it all depends on which process was used. And you can change absolutely every little aspect of a composite item production to your exact liking. I had the chance to do a report at Look factory (frames, pedals, outer soles, aero handlebars, etc.), and those folks confirmed it : "We can make frames a thousand different ways, composite ends up being what you want... there's no obligation.". So... unless you know exactly how this composite tube was made, just don't cut it. Don't. No ! Or ask the factory, and most times they'll reply : "Don't... the end tips participate into the structural properties of your handlebar. If you cut them, you risk weakening... then breaking, possibly.". Unless specific inserts were used, and you receive the OK to shorten them.
Using a pipe tool gives the edge a bevel which CAN punch through your bar end in a severe accident and cause major damage. Just beware of that. At the bike shop we always use a hacksaw and a the park tool SG 7.2.
This is great. I have been riding 780 for a while now. I am 6.1 with quite a long arm reach and wide shoulders, so I followed the trend and went with the widest bar I could find. I have been feeling like my bike is not working properly, balance was way off whenever I got air time. Cornering was real sketchy. Something always felt off. I never questioned my bar length, and kept trying other things. I thought it was just me trying to get back into mtbing at 49 years of age, and kept pushing myself to just get it right. Funny thing happened the other day. When I first got my bike about a year ago, I had a pair of bars that I cut down from 800. I was trying to get them to 760, but I messed up and cut them to 740. So I shelved them as rubbish, and bought another set, 780, that I kept. The other day I thought, lets try swapping the 780's for my old 740's. I swapped them out, and rotated them a bit more forward than I would normally run. What a difference!! I cannot believe how good the shorter bars feel now! Bike feels way lighter and poppier. More balance in the air. I feel so much more confident in cornering as well. Such a small change but such a massive difference. Loving my new setup!
YOU GUYS ARE THE ONLY ONES DOING THIS KIND OF CONTENT!! My MTB has changed my life, your information has changed my riding!! Keep the sizing stuff coming please and thank you!
Thank you for your videos. they are very educational. I'm 47 yrs old. and I ride the trails about 2X a month ( family and Dad stuff) I'm very exited to try your tutorials on all of this . I get exited and go outside about 9pm and just try the things you put on RUclips. Thank you. Working on my bunny hop and I'm trying the Wheelie how to video.
You two are really providing great content based on new lines of thinking and science. I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Old dogs can learn new tricks (skills)
Your formula is accurate for me. I am running 760 but unconsciously moving my hands inwards. I am 168x4.4=739.2 but i think i'll leave it there. I will adjust my brake lever inwards. Always great content! Keep it up! Thank you.
Upgraded my XC mtb and noticed handle bar width was 780 mm, up from 700 mm on previous bike. As a lifetime time weightlifter, the closer grip feels more comfortable and stable, and from experience, open shoulders lead to injuries. I cut the bar to 720 mm. Feels great!
My XC MTB came with 680mm and I went and put on some 800mm today and it was not comfortable at all. It lost its responsiveness. Did you notice the same thing?
These videos are really great! I think i have searched 10's of times for information on determining handlebar width and now i came across this by chance through one of your other videos. I'm glad i did. Great video and great channel!
Thank you guys. My last bike came with 800mm bars. I had never used such wide bars but wanted to try them out. They felt ok just riding around the neighbourhood but as soon as I got on the trail I hated them. I left them alone to see if I would get used to them. A few days later I went to a trail system about 40 mins away and on one of the trails I ride often I got stuck twice trying to ride through the trees. I went back to the car and cut them down. I brought a hack saw just in case. No more knuckle dragging.
Big big thank you guys, I am just seeking for changing my old 620mm bar, and I am 181cm tall so... R.A.D was incredible and now perfect video at right moment with greatest people?, Man..., F*..ing awesome, regards from Spain
Hey Jesus, you may also consider to reduce the stem length. Which gives you a more direct control of the bike, which comes with the cost that it gets more flutter on gravel. Depends on your preferences
Watching this today.. three years later. So refreshing to see someone say "hey it's all we knew at the time and its no longer the best way". cool human beings! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I watched this several times - it is a great video. After some experiments I left my LEVO sl at 760 (my calculated for 180 cm is 790) but then I started looking at my xc bike I have for 10 years. It has 690 bars but it has at least 30 mm longer stem compared to levo and still feels good after all the experiments. For sure this video helps in optimizing the bars and knowing why. Thanks
This channel deserves all the subscribers in the world. Such a joy to watch. I'll be 40 this year and just got myself a nukeproof scout 290 comp and I'm recently getting back into trail riding. The 800mm bars feel ok (I'm 177 cm) but I struggle to control the bike fully. I am going to move my controls and make adjustments until I see what's best. Thanks for all the info you guys are putting out there.
Thanks guys, subbed, glad I found you. I was riding an older "all mountain" bike and I felt like a more competent rider, and rides were more enjoyable then. The bars on that bike had 760mm. I have upgraded to a new larger bike and haven't found riding as exciting and just realised now, upon measuring, that is is 790mm. I recently purchased a hardtail for different riding and for some reason I prefer riding that bike, that is with a 695mm bar. Now I know geometry is going to be a variable as well, but as someone who is 168, it sounds like I will cutting my bars. I'll go down from 790mm to 760 as a starting point and see how we go from there. Thanks again!
I'm glad to see thought put into this. Too many reviews are of the "super-wide for super-ride, dude!" variety, and they just sound like ads to buy new stuff that they KNOW will need to be replaced at some point. This applies to all kinds of components -- it used to be "you gotta go super narrow rims" then "you gotta go super wide rims". Same for tire pressure. Same for number of gears. Same for ultra-small cassettes that wore out, but then we got over that nonsense only to get pushed back into it with 1x setups. And so it continues...
Much of it is MTB fashion for sure. I'm glad bars are available in wider sizes than years past but it's funny the way riders are focused on width and pushups and willing to sacrifice pull/hops/range of motion. I think it's because the number one fear is OTB and they don't realize most OTBs happen right after a mistimed push!!
COUPLE NOTES: The 4.40 calculation is based on a male of average proportions with an upper arm angle of 20 degrees for optimal shoulder joint health and push/pull strength. This provides an estimated MAX. Going a bit narrower always works and provide more pull strength and more range of motion. If you are over 6'2 or 188cm run whatever you like as long as it feels good. Females of average proportions may find more accuracy using a multiplier of 4.26
I was actually wondering if different skeletal structure and size (shoulder bone to shoulder bone) also play a role to the bar width. For example, I measure 22 inches shoulder to shoulder, which is also the distance from the middle of one palm to the other if I set my arms by my side.
As a female rider, I do appreciate that you include recommendations for females here in the comments, but it would be really awesome if you could include this in your videos as well! If all these details are so critical to successful riding, please don't treat women as secondary or an after thought. Most mtb content defaults to males and it is challenging to figure out if it applies the same to women given our different body proportions. Where I ride it is 50/50 males/females on the trail, so please include everyone! Anyway, really appreciate the content!!
Didn't lee learn his lesson about arbitrary fudge factors to height with the RAD measurements? Also, it wouldn't even be 4.4, just use 0.44 so you don't even need to think about units. Looking forward to the video in a couple of years when he admits again he was thinking about it all wrong, but we should believe him now.
gotta tell ya guys... i took this advice and cut my bars down. my izzo came w/ 760's. which is acceptable for a M frame. at 66" or 167.64cm i came up with 737mm bars. i rounded up to 740mm. just that little cut w/ an 8° sweep made a lot of difference. mainly, less fatigue and cramping in my hands. now both my bikes are running 740's and it feels pretty solid. thanks again!
This with the bike sizing video are absolute gems. I appreciate that the focus is ensuring the bike is set up according to the biomechanics of the rider. For cutting bars, pipe cutters from a hardware store are a good option too. I recently got a my first FS bike and had an anxiety inducing moment when I nervously went to see if it was properly sized (used the lying on my back method). It was (direct-to-consumer, they had me submit multiple body measurements when ordering). Now I'm interested in handle bar width as well. I like the suggestion of narrowing the grips and brakes/shifter and then cutting. Would be easy to do on trail with a multi-tool as well. Keep up the great content. Seriously, when are we going to get a Patreon? You guys are absolutely killing it.
These are so informational, and funny and well produced all in one package. I always seem to gravitate to these, and think "why dont I watch more of these". Big up!
I'm 5-9 as well and my Cannondale Scalpel came with 680mm and today I put on 800 to test and it felt very uncomfortable and the bike lost its responsiveness. It will have to cut them for sure. The formula shows 770. I will start from there... What was the outcome on your bars?
Great video guys. Hit 50 this year and I have ordered my first modern mtb (haven't ridden for years). Used to be a personal trainer focusing on rehab and biomechanics, and I switched to pulling/pushing narrow because it doesn't hurt my bad shoulder (better mechanics) I'm also stronger in that position. My bike will have 800ml bars, so your advice and the calculation is a must for me. Thank you 🙏🏿🇬🇧🇦🇬
I have been watching some of your other videos and was blown away by the info in this video. Always wondered why my shoulders were hurting with wider bars and now I know. I can go back to the other video on selecting the correct bar sweep now that I have the formula for correct (starting point for the widest bar I should ride). Thanks for this eye opening info.
Think about it...2 people same height=same bar width, right.... wrong. They could have totally different shoulder width and arm length, and the reach and ETT on their bike differ. The formula is, with any common sense, utter nonsense.
One thing worth considering and a great addition to your formula would be where TOO NARROW starts to happen. I don't suffer from stability but I do find that I get a bit of elbow pain on a bar that isn't adequately wide.
I'm 5'9 and run 680s on my trail bike. Love them! In my area there are a lot of tight trails with narrow gaps between trees, the short bars are great for dealing with that.
Really enjoying your work. You are doing a great job presenting a lot of the same topics I see on other channels. But describing them in different ways that is truly letting me learn more about my riding.
Yes!!! Thank you. My bar is 30 inches and I’m 5’5 causing so much strain on on my shoulders and rotator cuffs. Coming from road biking, this sucked. I just bought 23 inch bar. Looking forward to it. Thanks for the video, still applicable 2 years later!
My god, you guys are amazing. I'm having trouble fitting my mountainbike and you are helping me on the journey! I'm not there yet but this is a great recourse!
Bought a bike last year. Really wish I had found this channel before, but luckily it turns out the bike almost fits me perfectly when I bought it... No wonder I like it so much! Probably could use a slights smaller stem to fit my RAD measurement better. Keep up the great work!!
A couple of years ago I brought Lee's book Dialed and got my bike setup as close as I could to his recommended dimensions with a different stem and spacers that I had already and a new bar and it all feels great especially when out the saddle and 'hinged' into some trails... so I would advise anyone to try what's in this video and the previous one covering fit. It sort of goes against what magazines and other sources seem to be saying but in all honesty it works... and bar width not being stupid wide is even more crucial when you're 56 like me 👍
Man, I'm also just over 5'7" and switched over to a 45mm stem and 800mm bar last October. Not twitchy enough IMO; resulted in 2 titanium plates, 4 screws and 5 pins in my left wrist later that very same day! I just got back on the bike last week. Will pull the controls in and try again!
I love the vibe these guys generate, and the ease by which they keep interest alive. But that interest, can result in an addiction to being misled. Like the sillyness behind the idea that any shorter bar width, is healthier than maximum width . According to the Alex formula, I'm supposed to need a max width of 80 cm. But I'm fairly sure I've never had bars more than 65 ~ish, being of the baby boomer generation, in England, the choices were very few, compared to recent years. And now, being ancient and having recently discovered e-bikes, so comfort, is more of an issue, I can't wait to run the risk of wasting 15 quid, just to find out what wide bars can do for me. Thanks for the advisory formula Alex.
I went back from 780mm to 760mm bars as they felt much more comfortable. My hands sit about 15mm in from the ends. I did the calculation = 727mm so absolutely spot on! Lee really does know his stuff!! 👏 👏 👏 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you! Totally makes sense. I had wide bars, hurt my shoulders. I went down to 680mm, rode for a month, too twitchy. Moved to 700mm... Perfect fit. Now I know, from your formula. My max is 737.6 700mm comfortable! Thank you!
I was watching this between sets of working out, and decided to measure my estimated bar width (792) compared to my bench press and military press grips. Appropriately enough, it landed right in the middle. Another thing for shoulder health I think about is sometimes I see "attack" positions that have the elbows up so high that the shoulder starts getting into internal rotation, which can cause all sorts of problems. Be kind to your rotator cuffs, they're little and wimpy, but essential.
Glad I found this channel. This is exactly my thought - the bars are ridiculously long these days. First thing when I bought a bike is cut the bar. I won't even ride with the length it comes with.
Thanks Alex, this is perfect(kind of like your frame sizing video saved my butt) timing! I just received my new carbon bars when this video came out, I was assuming I would be at 780, but after doing the calculations and testing I’m at 760 and living it!! Thanks again for all you do!!!
I save lots of mtb videos to my watch later. I watch them all and then delete them from watch later after viewing. Except your videos. I just keep them there for future reference and to share with friends. Your videos are educational and needed! And btw - you are saving me money. The industry had me thinking my high end 2016 bike was out of date. Originally I thought the reach was too short for modern riding. Now I realize my reach and sizing is perfect. Which my body was telling me all along. Most recently I have been researching wider bars for a physical issue I am experiencing. Mine are 730 at 5 ft 8 in. Question. I do have hand numbness. I need to shake out my hands periodically. I notice it appears that the outside edge of my palms have more pressure than the inside edge of my palms on my grips. My bars have 9 degree backsweep. I was thinking if I went slightly wider (760) and a 8 degree backsweep maybe between the slightly wider grip and a bar that is slightly straighter across - the pressure point will be more evenly dispersed across my whole palm? Does the logic work? Thanks for the great videos.you are absolutely on your way to being the next huge channel.
John, 1) Make sure there's no weight on your hands. Watch our video about body position. 2) Consider bars with even more backsweep. I recommend SQlab bars with 12-16° of backsweep. I use 16s.
Another great video packed with stuff we should know, but don't! I'm personally a little sick of how wide my bars are on my newest bike and based off the formula I'm running at least 20mm too long. I am more used to the handling by now, but at first I had a really tough time with bike control. Now I just dislike how often I come close to clipping the bars on trees and stuff on narrow parts of my local trails.
I'm loving your work guys. I have been making good progress on my hops. Which I used to think were unbelievably complicated, until you put me right. After watching your RAD videos and this handle bar video. I now know why I find hops easier with my older shorter reach and narrower handlebar bike.
Awesome video. I stepped up to 785 about 2 years ago and it feels perfect. But at 203.2cm I should be running 894mm! Lol I'd never make it down the trail running that wide. I can barely squeeze through some trees as it is.
I'm 195. My brand new Trek EX8 XL has 780mm bars and I've been getting wrist pain, so considering reducing 10mm or so. The sizing factor started here makes my ideal size 860mm?
Best handle bar formula video that I have seen. I tried moving my gadgets around on the handle bars but they must have been placed by some kind of prior research because every way I tried was an epic failure, so I had to go back to the original configuration. But thats why I'm researching handle bars. Thanks.
Thank-you Lee and Alex for a definitive guide to handlebar length. I will be cutting the 800s to 770s. I already have a 770 setup on one bike and it works great!
The other benefits to narrower handlebars are that you can squeeze between trees better on the trail and get your bike into and lay your bike more easily on its side in your hatchback or SUV cargo area.
I treat handlebar width as a fit thing. For example I have bikes that have (slightly, by 15 mm) different reach. A wider bar makes me ride more forward. Of course I have different length stems on the bikes. Also, I ride trails that have very narrow gaps. I tried running an 800 mm wide bar and hit trees and rocks all too often with my bar ends. So, now I have 760 mm wide bar on a bike and a 776 (!) mm bar on another. I have good relaxed body position on both bikes and I can just fit in through most gaps at a reasonable speed. Great video, as always from you.
Super helpful. I just got a new bike. After my second ride yesterday my upper traps and back of shoulders were noticeabley sore. But I had zero idea where to begin with proper width. Thanks for the helpful and well explained info.
When I've switched to a new set of grips without "outer clamp" (Bontrager XR Trail Comp instead of Lizard Skins Charger), immediately noticed that it feels like I'm riding a wider bar. After a few rides, decided to cut the bars, and get the same "grip distance" as before. It was just 5mm per side, but noticable difference. So I'd also add that you need to take into account what grips you are going to use, as some might get your palms to a different position...
Love the vids, guys... keep em coming! I'd like to see a backsweep/upsweep video like this one as it relates to muscles worked and possible shoulder pain at different angles.
This was really helpful. I've been on 780s for a couple years, and though I'm 6'1", they've always felt a little too wide. Now that you've addressed the long bike and wide handlebars trends and how they impact riding and fit, how about head angle? It feels like we're being told that slacker is always better, but I'm skeptical, especially because of the narrow, twisty, undulating trails in my area.
Damn... your channel is my new go to for all things MTB related. Started riding again last year after many years out of the sadel. I am soon 45 and I find your video koncept to suit me perfect. Got a new Kona Process 134 last friday .
There are other factors - riding style and terrain; being able to fit through tight tree sections. I went from 800 to 780 and was better off. Also, besides just height, I find shoulder width is important to consider.
I would imagine shoulder width is THE measurement to base things off of. Perhaps there's some rough correlation between increased height and increased shoulder width, but it's not like we all have the same proportions. Otherwise I wouldn't be so high on the ape-index. :D Also, I'm 6'2" which is 188cm, and I absolutely shouldn't be on 827mm bars. :P
Scary how well that calculation works. I've been on 720s, 740s and 760s over the past decade, (and up to 820 on demos 😮,) but the calc says my max is a skosh over 780. Sure enough, the 780s I've been running the past few months are the best feeling I've had. Bend and sweep make a difference as well. Renthal's relatively shallow backsweep feels outstanding, whereas some of these 10 and 12 degree bars, (BMX freestyle is really bad about this,) feel horrible to me.
How bout a bar length formula based on shoulder width ( jacket size)? Also, the sweep angle needs to be part of the formula. If a bar was straight, it could be equal in length to shoulder width, but each degree of sweep allows for a longer bar. This is so dang important! Thanks for the vid!
I am th worldleader &king of kings in all aspect bicycles. Lol no i dont have videos. I explain it all HERE: (But people wont buy it, they cant) Handlebars, bikes ergonomics engineered by Lucifer. He HATES free energy. 95% humans Lucifers kids, tares. They are not humans. They subscribe, perpetuate false reality stupidity in all things. They are cmputer cntrolled hive mind. But they dont know that. Handlebar must be 29 or 30" 4average adult 5'9" 2 reasons. A front basket HANGING BY STRAPS FROM BARS is how 2transport up2 70lbs. Bicycles are MADE 2COMMUTE STRAIGHT LINE &CARRY THINGS. PERIOD &safety, stability handling. Those are your parameters. Revolve around those. Period. Bars wider then shoulders ONLY. 2 reasons. This forms a stable TRIANGLE required4 stability handling especially once u add weight front basket. Secondly, wide bars allow u carry wide objects like 5 2x4 wood resting on bars strapped 2waist. U can also carry things on long bars such as 5gallon buckets bar ends. Wide bar DRAMMATICALLY improve stability. As does LOWERING LOWERING LOWERING thseat. U must use heaviest ULTRA STRONG STEM. Bicyclists can not be taught. Bcuz they are pharisees. Know it alls. Regarding seat height. Most humans are NOT HUMANS. They are poisonous cmputer programs. Seat height. Lol ypur knees can bend pedaling &efficientcy functions just fine low seat. Lol satan teaches place head 6 feet from pavement, give tiny bars so now u a sky scraper &taller they are thmore easily they fall. Lol. I taught people how 2sit on bike 1980"s. Graeme Obree built bike matching my specs &30 guys broke hour record using my specs. Lol my seat is slammed down as LOW AS I CAN GET IT. This raises your bars essentially. So u NOT bent over but LOWER TO THGROUND 4ridiculous STABILITY &AERODYNAMICS. U will realize 1.5 mph at 21mph top speed electric motor as such even tho u upright but head several inch lower.. WIDE BARZ LOW SEAT, SEAT FORWARD, BARS IN CLOSE 2U PERIOD. Worlds best basic e bike bicycle design is used by me exclusively. This will not see production ¬1 person will ask 2c it in comments. Wide would they? They are pharisee tares. Computer animations. Know it alls. Fact. All E bikes are absolutely deploreable contraptions built by Lucifer boys. All manufacturimg &non humans are controlled by Satans BEAST cmputer. That computer revolves around me as its epicentre arch enemy. Meanwhile, all thworlds problems can be solved in thgarden. And 4godsakes sell your stable of 230 horses.
I agree. I am quite short but have wide shoulders so the length based formula doesn’t work for me. Another thing I missed was twitchiness can be adressed with a longer handlebar stem.
Just a thought, given everyone's body proportions are different, how about any equation based on shoulder width instead since it dictates push / pull comfort. Great content Alex and Lee, cheers!
The multiplier assumes average shoulder width, upper arm length and hand width. There are more detailed ways to assess optimal bar width, especially if you have special proportions. Learn all the details about bar width (and way more) at www.llbmtb.com. Enjoy a free month with the code JOYOFBIKE.
@@lee_likes_bikes Thanks Lee. btw I have your book Mastering Mountain Bike Skills and smiled when you referenced the pushup test in the video. I'm a fan of your teaching, thanks for the joyofbike trial.
It is funny that I bought a used ht and came with a 800mm with minimal rise. now I run it with a Spank vibrocore one wich is 777mm wide and I feel it better. Thanks again for your content guys! You are amazing people. Cheers from Chile!!!
If I had a dollar for every time I've seen a short (like around 5'6" and lower) rider spread-eagled over an uncut 800mm flat bar, I'd be able to afford a really good dropper post by now...
I'm 5'-5" and my bike came with 780s that I ride uncut. I ride with my hands all the way inboard on the grips which gives me an effective length from the outside of my hands that is well under what is recommended in this video. The difference between an 800 bar and the size of the bar recommended in this video for someone 5'6" is 30mm on each hand which is impercevable to anyone but the rider (and barely perceivable there). You're not seeing anyone 'spread-eagled' over anything.
I think a simple way to look at bar width is to look at the "direction" your forearms are pointing when standing on the pedals in a moderately aggressive "ready position", which you would be in descending. Optimal width your forearms are pointing relatively straight forward. You can see Lee in this position on his homepage near the bottom, when he's on that berm. Too wide and your forearms point "outside", which is a weaker position and hard on your shoulders, too narrow and your forearms point "inside" and your elbows are really bent, which is also weaker. Cheers.
geez ! another awesome video !! bar roll is also one major factor in handlebar fit !! i have been noticing most people who run with high rise bar, say 30mm +, they roll their bar way forward. with 8 or 9 degree backsweep, that overly forwarded bar roll changes the handlebar fit completely
I had had a bit on bar roll in here. I see people with bars rolled forward and the bars up at an angle and I worry about their shoulder joint. I would not want to pull hard at that angle.
I’m 5’ 9 and I just cut my bars down from 780mm to 740 right before watching this video! I was having too much trouble getting in between the trees in the trails with the 780s… clipped a tree and ate dirt on my last ride! Great video! Just subscribed!
After sharing this my friend texted “Great vid. Although, knowing just a tiny bit about biomechanics, it's my opinion that bar width should be calculated according to shoulder width instead of the person's height. Someone who is 6'5" can have the same width shoulders as a 5'9" person. Using overall height seems an over-simplification. Kind of like going with BMI instead of measuring body fat. It just doesn't take into account different body types. That is all...” 🤔
The multiplier assumes average shoulder width, upper arm length and hand width. There are more detailed ways to assess optimal bar width. Learn all the details about bar width (and way more) at www.llbmtb.com. Enjoy a free month with the code JOYOFBIKE.
@@lee_likes_bikes Thanks for the incredibly FAST and excellent reply. And thanks again for showing me HOW to HOP for the first time in 25yrs of riding after just 20 minutes trying at age 68!
Wow! This is awesome. I was wondering if my 800mm bars were too wide, but now I know they're not. I'm 185.5cm tall and that works out to about a 816mm bar max. It gives me confidence in my equipment choices. Thanks!
Im also 183 and currently riding (XC) with a 690mm bar, I bought a used bike and this bar came into it. I'm looking for a new bar in the past two weeks, I'll go straight to 760 once you said it, I've ridden a friend's bike with a 780mm bar and it felt veeeeeery awkward (due to the lack of twitchiness) but kinda good at the same time (the feeling of riding with my chest open), maybe 760 will work nice for me too
That was sick dude ! I stay in some Airbnb's right across the highway from there and will be bringing my new bike next time I come over. Thanks for your video.
Loving these sizing videos. According to Leetonian calculations, I should be able to go up to an 820. I ride a 720 because I've always preferred narrower bars. Must be my inherent beanpoleishness.
This video should be watched by millions more. It’s just….fact….we need to start teaching more of this to bikers. I’ve experienced it. Learnt. But you know about it, you can’t I see it
@@Chris-de2qc That's what a lot of guys use and it's faster but more messy. The pipe cutter is, precise, cheaper and cleaner but takes about a minute or two more.. Almost no filing needed afterwards.
@@Chris-de2qc the cutting wheel on a pipe cutter will get dull with use. Those wheels are able to be sharpened as well as replaced. Dull cutting tools typically don’t do a good job when trying to cut things.
Been riding mountain bikes DH,CC for many years. I used to perseverate about all kinds of handwringing set up details including the one mentioned in this Video, which is well done by the way. All that changed a few years back when i added enduro motorcycle riding to my mix of activities. The perspective gained from riding a machine that has REAL forces to deal with revealed to me how silly it is get so hung up on minutia over a 20-30lb machine that is mostly suspended by your legs and takes comparatively little physical input to pilot.
Some truth to this. I started in moto and got my pro card in the early 80s. The moto should make you better on your bike too. More comfortable a speed.
This guys are absolutely life saver for me, at 6'7" 255 pounds I followed their formula for sizing the bike and reach and also handlebar witdh and it made all the difference in the world.
@ferg. I got a 800mm handlebar with a 35mm rise and checked my reach utilizing their method of balancing the bike on 2 ladders that's on another one of their videos and worked out great.
Very informative mtb channel 👍 Alex just look like around 40, much younger then your real age. Mtb is just an amazing sport to keep people young and fit.
I run 800s but I have crazy wide shoulders, buddy of mine is 6"4' and I'm a good 4 inches wide than he is, I feel like shoulder width is more important than your height
The multiplier assumes average shoulder width, upper arm length and hand width. There are more detailed ways to assess optimal bar width, especially if you have special proportions. Learn all the details about bar width (and way more) at www.llbmtb.com. Enjoy a free month with the code JOYOFBIKE.
Came from a hardtail with narrow bars, never had any aches, bought a new bike a few months back with 780mm bars. For the first month of riding I had wrist ache and my inner thumbs felt "Bruised" and I would subconsciously move my hands right to the inside of the grip and I wouldn't realise until I went to change gear and had to move my hand. Came across this vid, did the formulae, I'm only 5' 6"-ish and my width came to 740mm, cut the bars down to that, and even though it's literally only an inch off each end, it's became a lot more comfortable to ride, I'm more upright, cornering feels better and I feel more in control at lower speeds...Thanx Guys.
I don't get why the formula is based on height, what if the person is tall but has narrow shoulders or vice versa? Or if the person has long or shorter arms
Yeah it doesn’t make sense. I’m 194cm tall and my max bar width is supposed to be 853.6mm. I’m currently using 780mm and I’m thinking about making them more narrow
Because it's obviously just a rough estimate, and body height is easy to measure. Much more so than to find the middle of you shoulder joints to measure their distance. Also, while obviously there are different physiques, ROUGHLY shoulder with DOES go with body height. Also, the formula is mentioned give you the MAXIMUM bar width.
Use a plumbers pipe cutting tool. They are cheap and you get a nice cut every time.
Just not for carbon....
@@thesaltlick4057 Ok if it's done gently.
@@thesaltlick4057 If you use it for Carbon bars you will be very disappointed with the result.
For "carbon", it all depends on which process was used. And you can change absolutely every little aspect of a composite item production to your exact liking.
I had the chance to do a report at Look factory (frames, pedals, outer soles, aero handlebars, etc.), and those folks confirmed it : "We can make frames a thousand different ways, composite ends up being what you want... there's no obligation.".
So... unless you know exactly how this composite tube was made, just don't cut it. Don't. No !
Or ask the factory, and most times they'll reply : "Don't... the end tips participate into the structural properties of your handlebar. If you cut them, you risk weakening... then breaking, possibly.".
Unless specific inserts were used, and you receive the OK to shorten them.
Using a pipe tool gives the edge a bevel which CAN punch through your bar end in a severe accident and cause major damage. Just beware of that. At the bike shop we always use a hacksaw and a the park tool SG 7.2.
This is great. I have been riding 780 for a while now. I am 6.1 with quite a long arm reach and wide shoulders, so I followed the trend and went with the widest bar I could find. I have been feeling like my bike is not working properly, balance was way off whenever I got air time. Cornering was real sketchy. Something always felt off. I never questioned my bar length, and kept trying other things. I thought it was just me trying to get back into mtbing at 49 years of age, and kept pushing myself to just get it right. Funny thing happened the other day. When I first got my bike about a year ago, I had a pair of bars that I cut down from 800. I was trying to get them to 760, but I messed up and cut them to 740. So I shelved them as rubbish, and bought another set, 780, that I kept. The other day I thought, lets try swapping the 780's for my old 740's. I swapped them out, and rotated them a bit more forward than I would normally run. What a difference!! I cannot believe how good the shorter bars feel now! Bike feels way lighter and poppier. More balance in the air. I feel so much more confident in cornering as well. Such a small change but such a massive difference. Loving my new setup!
Good comment.
YOU GUYS ARE THE ONLY ONES DOING THIS KIND OF CONTENT!!
My MTB has changed my life, your information has changed my riding!! Keep the sizing stuff coming please and thank you!
Bikes are magical.
Thank you! I’ve been doing my own thing for decades. Forget the trends, do what’s best for your body mechanics.
Thank you for your videos. they are very educational.
I'm 47 yrs old. and I ride the trails about 2X a month ( family and Dad stuff) I'm very exited to try your tutorials on all of this .
I get exited and go outside about 9pm and just try the things you put on RUclips. Thank you. Working on my bunny hop and I'm trying the Wheelie how to video.
That is awesome!
You two are really providing great content based on new lines of thinking and science. I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Old dogs can learn new tricks (skills)
Our pleasure!
Alex and Lee are the best MTB RUclips creators right now. Your videos have translated into more JOY for me on my bike! Thank you!
Thank YOU!!!
Your formula is accurate for me. I am running 760 but unconsciously moving my hands inwards. I am 168x4.4=739.2 but i think i'll leave it there. I will adjust my brake lever inwards. Always great content! Keep it up! Thank you.
Upgraded my XC mtb and noticed handle bar width was 780 mm, up from 700 mm on previous bike. As a lifetime time weightlifter, the closer grip feels more comfortable and stable, and from experience, open shoulders lead to injuries. I cut the bar to 720 mm. Feels great!
My XC MTB came with 680mm and I went and put on some 800mm today and it was not comfortable at all. It lost its responsiveness.
Did you notice the same thing?
How tall are you?
These videos are really great! I think i have searched 10's of times for information on determining handlebar width and now i came across this by chance through one of your other videos. I'm glad i did. Great video and great channel!
Thank you guys. My last bike came with 800mm bars. I had never used such wide bars but wanted to try them out. They felt ok just riding around the neighbourhood but as soon as I got on the trail I hated them. I left them alone to see if I would get used to them. A few days later I went to a trail system about 40 mins away and on one of the trails I ride often I got stuck twice trying to ride through the trees. I went back to the car and cut them down. I brought a hack saw just in case. No more knuckle dragging.
I still use this video over and over again. Still never saw anything more relevant so far. Thumbs up forever
Big big thank you guys, I am just seeking for changing my old 620mm bar, and I am 181cm tall so... R.A.D was incredible and now perfect video at right moment with greatest people?, Man..., F*..ing awesome, regards from Spain
Thanks Jesus!!
Hey Jesus, you may also consider to reduce the stem length. Which gives you a more direct control of the bike, which comes with the cost that it gets more flutter on gravel. Depends on your preferences
Watching this today.. three years later. So refreshing to see someone say "hey it's all we knew at the time and its no longer the best way". cool human beings! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I watched this several times - it is a great video. After some experiments I left my LEVO sl at 760 (my calculated for 180 cm is 790) but then I started looking at my xc bike I have for 10 years. It has 690 bars but it has at least 30 mm longer stem compared to levo and still feels good after all the experiments. For sure this video helps in optimizing the bars and knowing why. Thanks
This channel deserves all the subscribers in the world. Such a joy to watch. I'll be 40 this year and just got myself a nukeproof scout 290 comp and I'm recently getting back into trail riding. The 800mm bars feel ok (I'm 177 cm) but I struggle to control the bike fully. I am going to move my controls and make adjustments until I see what's best. Thanks for all the info you guys are putting out there.
You bet. We love our subs!!! We got the best ones. : )
Roadie just picking up the MTB thing, this is by far my favorite channel! Thanks for all you guys do, keep it going!!!
Welcome to the dirt!!
Thanks guys, subbed, glad I found you. I was riding an older "all mountain" bike and I felt like a more competent rider, and rides were more enjoyable then. The bars on that bike had 760mm. I have upgraded to a new larger bike and haven't found riding as exciting and just realised now, upon measuring, that is is 790mm. I recently purchased a hardtail for different riding and for some reason I prefer riding that bike, that is with a 695mm bar. Now I know geometry is going to be a variable as well, but as someone who is 168, it sounds like I will cutting my bars. I'll go down from 790mm to 760 as a starting point and see how we go from there. Thanks again!
Dead on once again. Next up, you should do a segment on stack height
I’d like to see that paired with this video
I'm in on that too! I'd love to hear their take on that.
I'm glad to see thought put into this. Too many reviews are of the "super-wide for super-ride, dude!" variety, and they just sound like ads to buy new stuff that they KNOW will need to be replaced at some point. This applies to all kinds of components -- it used to be "you gotta go super narrow rims" then "you gotta go super wide rims". Same for tire pressure. Same for number of gears. Same for ultra-small cassettes that wore out, but then we got over that nonsense only to get pushed back into it with 1x setups. And so it continues...
Much of it is MTB fashion for sure. I'm glad bars are available in wider sizes than years past but it's funny the way riders are focused on width and pushups and willing to sacrifice pull/hops/range of motion. I think it's because the number one fear is OTB and they don't realize most OTBs happen right after a mistimed push!!
COUPLE NOTES: The 4.40 calculation is based on a male of average proportions with an upper arm angle of 20 degrees for optimal shoulder joint health and push/pull strength. This provides an estimated MAX. Going a bit narrower always works and provide more pull strength and more range of motion. If you are over 6'2 or 188cm run whatever you like as long as it feels good. Females of average proportions may find more accuracy using a multiplier of 4.26
Lee recommends to go 5% less in his Pinkbike article, which dates back to 2018. Is this recommendation still applicable? Thanks!
I was actually wondering if different skeletal structure and size (shoulder bone to shoulder bone) also play a role to the bar width. For example, I measure 22 inches shoulder to shoulder, which is also the distance from the middle of one palm to the other if I set my arms by my side.
Terrific, thanks for the female ratio. We’ve been trying to figure out where to cut my wife’s bars. She’s 5' and developing a spine hunch.
As a female rider, I do appreciate that you include recommendations for females here in the comments, but it would be really awesome if you could include this in your videos as well! If all these details are so critical to successful riding, please don't treat women as secondary or an after thought. Most mtb content defaults to males and it is challenging to figure out if it applies the same to women given our different body proportions. Where I ride it is 50/50 males/females on the trail, so please include everyone! Anyway, really appreciate the content!!
Didn't lee learn his lesson about arbitrary fudge factors to height with the RAD measurements? Also, it wouldn't even be 4.4, just use 0.44 so you don't even need to think about units. Looking forward to the video in a couple of years when he admits again he was thinking about it all wrong, but we should believe him now.
"handlebars should be scaled to your body" Exactly right.
gotta tell ya guys... i took this advice and cut my bars down. my izzo came w/ 760's. which is acceptable for a M frame. at 66" or 167.64cm i came up with 737mm bars. i rounded up to 740mm. just that little cut w/ an 8° sweep made a lot of difference. mainly, less fatigue and cramping in my hands.
now both my bikes are running 740's and it feels pretty solid. thanks again!
Right on!
This with the bike sizing video are absolute gems. I appreciate that the focus is ensuring the bike is set up according to the biomechanics of the rider. For cutting bars, pipe cutters from a hardware store are a good option too.
I recently got a my first FS bike and had an anxiety inducing moment when I nervously went to see if it was properly sized (used the lying on my back method). It was (direct-to-consumer, they had me submit multiple body measurements when ordering).
Now I'm interested in handle bar width as well. I like the suggestion of narrowing the grips and brakes/shifter and then cutting. Would be easy to do on trail with a multi-tool as well.
Keep up the great content. Seriously, when are we going to get a Patreon? You guys are absolutely killing it.
I'm working on the Patreon!!
Appreciate you!!! I don't think I will do one. Buy a shirt perhaps? Lee will be doing a Patreon for himself.
This immediately went way deeper than I expected. Classical music and math 😳
Hahaha. And you forgot to mention Vitruvian man in the thumbnail. : )
@@JoyOfBike just noticed that. I clicked on the vid before even checking out the thumb 😂
Thx guys! Now...to the garage! To measure ALL the bars! 🤓🤙
@@fasterwheels Cool idea to use your front brake rotor as your profile photo🤘🏻
These are so informational, and funny and well produced all in one package. I always seem to gravitate to these, and think "why dont I watch more of these". Big up!
I am 6' 2" and did the push up method years ago and came up with 740. I have been riding 740 ever since and love it.
Great!
You wound up in a good spot!!
Thank you, I’m 5’9” and was riding with 800mm bars. After watching this video I cut them down to 770mm. It feels so much more comfortable to ride now.
Great to hear!
Did u measure your handle bars before you cut?
I'm 5-9 as well and my Cannondale Scalpel came with 680mm and today I put on 800 to test and it felt very uncomfortable and the bike lost its responsiveness. It will have to cut them for sure. The formula shows 770. I will start from there...
What was the outcome on your bars?
@@Dopeassbikevids no I did not. They were pre marked at specific lengths so I trusted the measurements on them
@@Whatsthe_411 770 feels good and my arms don’t get sore anymore so I stayed at that width.
Great video guys.
Hit 50 this year and I have ordered my first modern mtb (haven't ridden for years). Used to be a personal trainer focusing on rehab and biomechanics, and I switched to pulling/pushing narrow because it doesn't hurt my bad shoulder (better mechanics) I'm also stronger in that position.
My bike will have 800ml bars, so your advice and the calculation is a must for me.
Thank you 🙏🏿🇬🇧🇦🇬
Best description of handlebar width I've seen on YT yet. Super helpful. Thank you!
Very very interesting. A great video. I'm probably too wide as I'm getting twinges in my shoulders, will be checking bar width out this weekend.
I have been watching some of your other videos and was blown away by the info in this video. Always wondered why my shoulders were hurting with wider bars and now I know. I can go back to the other video on selecting the correct bar sweep now that I have the formula for correct (starting point for the widest bar I should ride). Thanks for this eye opening info.
My max is 820mm (using the formula) and I have always felt comfortable on 800mm 🤘🏻formula seems legit 🤘🏻
Yep same here formula says 800 and I like to run 780
@@brandonreimer184 awesome👌🏻
Think about it...2 people same height=same bar width, right.... wrong. They could have totally different shoulder width and arm length, and the reach and ETT on their bike differ.
The formula is, with any common sense, utter nonsense.
Just had rotator cuff repair, this was great information to help me ensure my bar is dialed in when I come back.
🙏
One thing worth considering and a great addition to your formula would be where TOO NARROW starts to happen. I don't suffer from stability but I do find that I get a bit of elbow pain on a bar that isn't adequately wide.
Why did I never think about just moving the controls first? I've ruined many handlebars needlessly. Thanks again!! Keep up the great work!!
It’s a great hack!!
i'm 6 5 (194cm) and have gone down to 770 in the last few years. it's perfect. optimum control, optimum comfort.
6'5" is just over 195cm - I hate it when people take 1cm off my height!
Interesting, since formula from this video suggests your max is 860mm
Yep, see, you prove my point! - Height in CM x 4.00000000
similar: 6'3 here and i do have 800 and im thinking of 780mm to test out. 800 feels "apey" to me
@@tehalexy 6'3, 275lbs, 820mm, feels beautiful.
I'm 5'9 and run 680s on my trail bike. Love them! In my area there are a lot of tight trails with narrow gaps between trees, the short bars are great for dealing with that.
Really enjoying your work. You are doing a great job presenting a lot of the same topics I see on other channels. But describing them in different ways that is truly letting me learn more about my riding.
Appreciate that! We're trying to put more "why" in the mix. : )
Yes!!! Thank you. My bar is 30 inches and I’m 5’5 causing so much strain on on my shoulders and rotator cuffs. Coming from road biking, this sucked. I just bought 23 inch bar. Looking forward to it. Thanks for the video, still applicable 2 years later!
My god, you guys are amazing. I'm having trouble fitting my mountainbike and you are helping me on the journey! I'm not there yet but this is a great recourse!
You are my favourite go to MTBing on RUclips. Many thanks guys you’re Awesome!
Wow, thanks!
Lee: "He's always wondered why I'm so frickin strong"
Alex: "I've never wondered that once"
LOL
I've wondered a lot of things about Lee but that wasn't one. But that's not to say he isn't strong. Pretty much a beast. : )
That was funny.
Bought a bike last year. Really wish I had found this channel before, but luckily it turns out the bike almost fits me perfectly when I bought it... No wonder I like it so much! Probably could use a slights smaller stem to fit my RAD measurement better. Keep up the great work!!
A couple of years ago I brought Lee's book Dialed and got my bike setup as close as I could to his recommended dimensions with a different stem and spacers that I had already and a new bar and it all feels great especially when out the saddle and 'hinged' into some trails... so I would advise anyone to try what's in this video and the previous one covering fit. It sort of goes against what magazines and other sources seem to be saying but in all honesty it works... and bar width not being stupid wide is even more crucial when you're 56 like me 👍
Yeah dudes, the best in the world DON'T do what you recommend. You just unlocked the Holy Grail. You both deserve to me BILLIONAIRES!!!
the best in the world are probably kids aged 15-25. Once you get older, biomechanical form becomes very important.
Holy hell, i'm 5'7" and ride 780mm. Time to work my way down, new to riding but not new to shoulder surgery. Thanks guys!
5' 7.5", running 720 mm bars. Started out at 740. Will probably go down to 710 due to rotator cuff injuries.
Some real benefits to narrower are stronger and FASTER pull. And more range of motion. Bring on the table tops!!
@@JoyOfBike i hope so, i'm just learning to jump and am able to clear some sm/med tables! Been working on my row, anti-row :)
Man, I'm also just over 5'7" and switched over to a 45mm stem and 800mm bar last October. Not twitchy enough IMO; resulted in 2 titanium plates, 4 screws and 5 pins in my left wrist later that very same day!
I just got back on the bike last week. Will pull the controls in and try again!
I love the vibe these guys generate, and the ease by which they keep interest alive.
But that interest, can result in an addiction to being misled.
Like the sillyness behind the idea that any shorter bar width, is healthier than maximum width .
According to the Alex formula, I'm supposed to need a max width of 80 cm. But I'm fairly sure I've never had bars more than 65 ~ish, being of the baby boomer generation, in England, the choices were very few, compared to recent years.
And now, being ancient and having recently discovered e-bikes, so comfort, is more of an issue, I can't wait to run the risk of wasting 15 quid, just to find out what wide bars can do for me.
Thanks for the advisory formula Alex.
I went back from 780mm to 760mm bars as they felt much more comfortable. My hands sit about 15mm in from the ends. I did the calculation = 727mm so absolutely spot on! Lee really does know his stuff!! 👏 👏 👏 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Spot on? 760-12= 745 against 730. We talk about centimeters, so I think 1,5 cm is quite a difference.
@@seik101 Dude did we fail maths at school? Obviously so, as it’s 15mm in PER SIDE!! 15+15=30. Tadaaaaa! 😂😂😂
@@steveindorset true. And yes and no. I failed Not in Mathe particularly, but in school generaly 🤷
@@seik101 then maybe you should double check your maths before posting such a contentious comment? Have a great day buddy. 😉👍🏻
@@steveindorset contentious ? It´s just wrong. I made a mistake. Happens...
Thank you! Totally makes sense. I had wide bars, hurt my shoulders. I went down to 680mm, rode for a month, too twitchy. Moved to 700mm... Perfect fit. Now I know, from your formula. My max is 737.6 700mm comfortable! Thank you!
I was watching this between sets of working out, and decided to measure my estimated bar width (792) compared to my bench press and military press grips. Appropriately enough, it landed right in the middle. Another thing for shoulder health I think about is sometimes I see "attack" positions that have the elbows up so high that the shoulder starts getting into internal rotation, which can cause all sorts of problems. Be kind to your rotator cuffs, they're little and wimpy, but essential.
I got 792mm also but I’m running 780mm bars and they feel good.
Glad I found this channel. This is exactly my thought - the bars are ridiculously long these days. First thing when I bought a bike is cut the bar. I won't even ride with the length it comes with.
Since pulling is the main power move involving the bars, I like running my bars at 760mm, even though my calculated max is 810. Feels awesome.
I’m in philosophical agreement with this. Too much focus on width and to what end?!!
Just bought a new bar and I'm still afraid to cut it down to size until I found your video, that formula makes sense thanks!
Thanks Alex, this is perfect(kind of like your frame sizing video saved my butt) timing! I just received my new carbon bars when this video came out, I was assuming I would be at 780, but after doing the calculations and testing I’m at 760 and living it!! Thanks again for all you do!!!
I save lots of mtb videos to my watch later. I watch them all and then delete them from watch later after viewing. Except your videos. I just keep them there for future reference and to share with friends. Your videos are educational and needed!
And btw - you are saving me money. The industry had me thinking my high end 2016 bike was out of date. Originally I thought the reach was too short for modern riding. Now I realize my reach and sizing is perfect. Which my body was telling me all along.
Most recently I have been researching wider bars for a physical issue I am experiencing. Mine are 730 at 5 ft 8 in.
Question. I do have hand numbness. I need to shake out my hands periodically. I notice it appears that the outside edge of my palms have more pressure than the inside edge of my palms on my grips. My bars have 9 degree backsweep. I was thinking if I went slightly wider (760) and a 8 degree backsweep maybe between the slightly wider grip and a bar that is slightly straighter across - the pressure point will be more evenly dispersed across my whole palm? Does the logic work?
Thanks for the great videos.you are absolutely on your way to being the next huge channel.
John,
1) Make sure there's no weight on your hands. Watch our video about body position.
2) Consider bars with even more backsweep. I recommend SQlab bars with 12-16° of backsweep. I use 16s.
Another great video packed with stuff we should know, but don't! I'm personally a little sick of how wide my bars are on my newest bike and based off the formula I'm running at least 20mm too long. I am more used to the handling by now, but at first I had a really tough time with bike control. Now I just dislike how often I come close to clipping the bars on trees and stuff on narrow parts of my local trails.
Intuition and math coming together. Time to make a cut. Measure twice!!
I'm loving your work guys. I have been making good progress on my hops. Which I used to think were unbelievably complicated, until you put me right. After watching your RAD videos and this handle bar video. I now know why I find hops easier with my older shorter reach and narrower handlebar bike.
Awesome video. I stepped up to 785 about 2 years ago and it feels perfect. But at 203.2cm I should be running 894mm! Lol I'd never make it down the trail running that wide. I can barely squeeze through some trees as it is.
I'm 198cm. What sort of stem have you got? I'm trying to decide if I need to swap mine out. I ride a Whyte Hardtail
65mm length, but recently changed to 60mm riser bar. The riser bar has been game changing for me to get my fit right
@@sixate I just put a Renthal 40mm rise bar. They are 800mm. Feels much better. But I feel I need to do one more tweek
I'm 195. My brand new Trek EX8 XL has 780mm bars and I've been getting wrist pain, so considering reducing 10mm or so. The sizing factor started here makes my ideal size 860mm?
Best handle bar formula video that I have seen. I tried moving my gadgets around on the handle bars but they must have been placed by some kind of prior research because every way I tried was an epic failure, so I had to go back to the original configuration. But thats why I'm researching handle bars. Thanks.
Great content as usual. I've been playing around with bar width recently, and the points you discuss make great sense.
Glad to help!
Thank-you Lee and Alex for a definitive guide to handlebar length. I will be cutting the 800s to 770s. I already have a 770 setup on one bike and it works great!
My height 5.7inch handle size?
The other benefits to narrower handlebars are that you can squeeze between trees better on the trail and get your bike into and lay your bike more easily on its side in your hatchback or SUV cargo area.
I treat handlebar width as a fit thing. For example I have bikes that have (slightly, by 15 mm) different reach. A wider bar makes me ride more forward. Of course I have different length stems on the bikes.
Also, I ride trails that have very narrow gaps. I tried running an 800 mm wide bar and hit trees and rocks all too often with my bar ends. So, now I have 760 mm wide bar on a bike and a 776 (!) mm bar on another. I have good relaxed body position on both bikes and I can just fit in through most gaps at a reasonable speed.
Great video, as always from you.
Oh yes, not surprisingly your formula puts me to 774,4 mm - so, I guess my gut feeling was pretty good.
Doing such good work boys. Love it
Super helpful. I just got a new bike. After my second ride yesterday my upper traps and back of shoulders were noticeabley sore. But I had zero idea where to begin with proper width. Thanks for the helpful and well explained info.
When I've switched to a new set of grips without "outer clamp" (Bontrager XR Trail Comp instead of Lizard Skins Charger), immediately noticed that it feels like I'm riding a wider bar. After a few rides, decided to cut the bars, and get the same "grip distance" as before. It was just 5mm per side, but noticable difference. So I'd also add that you need to take into account what grips you are going to use, as some might get your palms to a different position...
Love the vids, guys... keep em coming! I'd like to see a backsweep/upsweep video like this one as it relates to muscles worked and possible shoulder pain at different angles.
Good idea!
This was really helpful. I've been on 780s for a couple years, and though I'm 6'1", they've always felt a little too wide. Now that you've addressed the long bike and wide handlebars trends and how they impact riding and fit, how about head angle? It feels like we're being told that slacker is always better, but I'm skeptical, especially because of the narrow, twisty, undulating trails in my area.
We'll probably get into that. But slacker isn't better -- it's different. It behooves us to pick bikes that fit our bodies, riding styles and terrain.
Slacker is ALWAYS better!!! (That was my April fools joke for this year)
Damn... your channel is my new go to for all things MTB related. Started riding again last year after many years out of the sadel. I am soon 45 and I find your video koncept to suit me perfect. Got a new Kona Process 134 last friday .
There are other factors - riding style and terrain; being able to fit through tight tree sections. I went from 800 to 780 and was better off. Also, besides just height, I find shoulder width is important to consider.
Shoulder width is DEFINITELY important. I'm 5ft but due to playing football (US) I have very broad shoulders.
I would imagine shoulder width is THE measurement to base things off of. Perhaps there's some rough correlation between increased height and increased shoulder width, but it's not like we all have the same proportions. Otherwise I wouldn't be so high on the ape-index. :D Also, I'm 6'2" which is 188cm, and I absolutely shouldn't be on 827mm bars. :P
Probably the best video I've ever seen on this subject. Well done!
Scary how well that calculation works. I've been on 720s, 740s and 760s over the past decade, (and up to 820 on demos 😮,) but the calc says my max is a skosh over 780. Sure enough, the 780s I've been running the past few months are the best feeling I've had.
Bend and sweep make a difference as well. Renthal's relatively shallow backsweep feels outstanding, whereas some of these 10 and 12 degree bars, (BMX freestyle is really bad about this,) feel horrible to me.
thanks again guys for sharing a simple and explanation on MTB Bar width according to your size. more joy ride to us.
You bet!
How bout a bar length formula based on shoulder width ( jacket size)? Also, the sweep angle needs to be part of the formula. If a bar was straight, it could be equal in length to shoulder width, but each degree of sweep allows for a longer bar. This is so dang important! Thanks for the vid!
I am th worldleader &king of kings in all aspect bicycles.
Lol no i dont have videos. I explain it all HERE:
(But people wont buy it, they cant)
Handlebars, bikes ergonomics engineered by Lucifer. He HATES free energy.
95% humans Lucifers kids, tares. They are not humans. They subscribe, perpetuate false reality stupidity in all things. They are cmputer cntrolled hive mind. But they dont know that.
Handlebar must be 29 or 30" 4average adult 5'9"
2 reasons. A front basket HANGING BY STRAPS FROM BARS is how 2transport up2 70lbs.
Bicycles are MADE 2COMMUTE STRAIGHT LINE &CARRY THINGS. PERIOD &safety, stability handling. Those are your parameters. Revolve around those. Period.
Bars wider then shoulders ONLY.
2 reasons.
This forms a stable TRIANGLE required4 stability handling especially once u add weight front basket.
Secondly, wide bars allow u carry wide objects like 5 2x4 wood resting on bars strapped 2waist. U can also carry things on long bars such as 5gallon buckets bar ends. Wide bar DRAMMATICALLY improve stability.
As does LOWERING LOWERING LOWERING thseat.
U must use heaviest ULTRA STRONG STEM.
Bicyclists can not be taught. Bcuz they are pharisees. Know it alls. Regarding seat height. Most humans are NOT HUMANS. They are poisonous cmputer programs.
Seat height.
Lol ypur knees can bend pedaling &efficientcy functions just fine low seat. Lol satan teaches place head 6 feet from pavement, give tiny bars so now u a sky scraper &taller they are thmore easily they fall. Lol. I taught people how 2sit on bike 1980"s. Graeme Obree built bike matching my specs &30 guys broke hour record using my specs.
Lol my seat is slammed down as LOW AS I CAN GET IT. This raises your bars essentially. So u NOT bent over but LOWER TO THGROUND 4ridiculous STABILITY &AERODYNAMICS.
U will realize 1.5 mph at 21mph top speed electric motor as such even tho u upright but head several inch lower..
WIDE BARZ LOW SEAT, SEAT FORWARD, BARS IN CLOSE 2U PERIOD.
Worlds best basic e bike bicycle design is used by me exclusively. This will not see production ¬1 person will ask 2c it in comments. Wide would they? They are pharisee tares. Computer animations. Know it alls.
Fact.
All E bikes are absolutely deploreable contraptions built by Lucifer boys.
All manufacturimg &non humans are controlled by Satans BEAST cmputer. That computer revolves around me as its epicentre arch enemy.
Meanwhile, all thworlds problems can be solved in thgarden. And 4godsakes sell your stable of 230 horses.
I agree. I am quite short but have wide shoulders so the length based formula doesn’t work for me. Another thing I missed was twitchiness can be adressed with a longer handlebar stem.
I have found its Basically Your Inseam ..... is For Me Anyway 😎
@@darrinkulyk9560 for my it's a d1ck length basically
Best video ever! Don’t follow the trends. Follow your anatomy and riding style.
Just a thought, given everyone's body proportions are different, how about any equation based on shoulder width instead since it dictates push / pull comfort. Great content Alex and Lee, cheers!
Also ape index will be different too..
The multiplier assumes average shoulder width, upper arm length and hand width.
There are more detailed ways to assess optimal bar width, especially if you have special proportions.
Learn all the details about bar width (and way more) at www.llbmtb.com. Enjoy a free month with the code JOYOFBIKE.
@@lee_likes_bikes Thanks Lee. btw I have your book Mastering Mountain Bike Skills and smiled when you referenced the pushup test in the video. I'm a fan of your teaching, thanks for the joyofbike trial.
That's what I'm getting at
It is funny that I bought a used ht and came with a 800mm with minimal rise. now I run it with a Spank vibrocore one wich is 777mm wide and I feel it better. Thanks again for your content guys! You are amazing people. Cheers from Chile!!!
If I had a dollar for every time I've seen a short (like around 5'6" and lower) rider spread-eagled over an uncut 800mm flat bar, I'd be able to afford a really good dropper post by now...
Indeed!
I'm 5'-5" and my bike came with 780s that I ride uncut. I ride with my hands all the way inboard on the grips which gives me an effective length from the outside of my hands that is well under what is recommended in this video. The difference between an 800 bar and the size of the bar recommended in this video for someone 5'6" is 30mm on each hand which is impercevable to anyone but the rider (and barely perceivable there). You're not seeing anyone 'spread-eagled' over anything.
Love the Bach, Prelude in G music in the background. Very informative video too! 👏
I think a simple way to look at bar width is to look at the "direction" your forearms are pointing when standing on the pedals in a moderately aggressive "ready position", which you would be in descending. Optimal width your forearms are pointing relatively straight forward. You can see Lee in this position on his homepage near the bottom, when he's on that berm. Too wide and your forearms point "outside", which is a weaker position and hard on your shoulders, too narrow and your forearms point "inside" and your elbows are really bent, which is also weaker. Cheers.
geez ! another awesome video !! bar roll is also one major factor in handlebar fit !! i have been noticing most people who run with high rise bar, say 30mm +, they roll their bar way forward. with 8 or 9 degree backsweep, that overly forwarded bar roll changes the handlebar fit completely
I had had a bit on bar roll in here. I see people with bars rolled forward and the bars up at an angle and I worry about their shoulder joint. I would not want to pull hard at that angle.
First!!!!
Edit. Just finished watching. Hands down your videos are all about maximizing fun and optimizing ride. Kudos to you both
Thanks Mike!!!
I’m 5’ 9 and I just cut my bars down from 780mm to 740 right before watching this video! I was having too much trouble getting in between the trees in the trails with the 780s… clipped a tree and ate dirt on my last ride! Great video! Just subscribed!
After sharing this my friend texted “Great vid. Although, knowing just a tiny bit about biomechanics, it's my opinion that bar width should be calculated according to shoulder width instead of the person's height. Someone who is 6'5" can have the same width shoulders as a 5'9" person. Using overall height seems an over-simplification. Kind of like going with BMI instead of measuring body fat. It just doesn't take into account different body types. That is all...” 🤔
The multiplier assumes average shoulder width, upper arm length and hand width.
There are more detailed ways to assess optimal bar width.
Learn all the details about bar width (and way more) at www.llbmtb.com. Enjoy a free month with the code JOYOFBIKE.
@@lee_likes_bikes Thanks for the incredibly FAST and excellent reply. And thanks again for showing me HOW to HOP for the first time in 25yrs of riding after just 20 minutes trying at age 68!
Wow! This is awesome. I was wondering if my 800mm bars were too wide, but now I know they're not. I'm 185.5cm tall and that works out to about a 816mm bar max. It gives me confidence in my equipment choices. Thanks!
183x4.4 is 805. I started with a fatbar at 800 and progressively went down to 760.
Im also 183 and currently riding (XC) with a 690mm bar, I bought a used bike and this bar came into it. I'm looking for a new bar in the past two weeks, I'll go straight to 760 once you said it, I've ridden a friend's bike with a 780mm bar and it felt veeeeeery awkward (due to the lack of twitchiness) but kinda good at the same time (the feeling of riding with my chest open), maybe 760 will work nice for me too
@@danielribas1109 I have a 750 bar with a different rise that I also use.
That was sick dude ! I stay in some Airbnb's right across the highway from there and will be bringing my new bike next time I come over. Thanks for your video.
Loving these sizing videos. According to Leetonian calculations, I should be able to go up to an 820. I ride a 720 because I've always preferred narrower bars. Must be my inherent beanpoleishness.
Wow. You are a handlebar unicorn. Consider experimenting with 750-760
@@JoyOfBike Well, the bar I replaced was a 755. Maybe I'm just weird. I'm used to it. Being weird, that is.
@@JasonFoxLCB Weird just means not following the crowd. I'm a fan of that! I ride 680 ish on my BMX!
@@JoyOfBike That's one reason I went into advertising. If only advertising still wanted the weirdos. But I digress. Back to the trails.
@Paul Devassy Exactly. I think some folks like us just prefer edging towards the twitchy side of life. I like small cars, too.
This video should be watched by millions more. It’s just….fact….we need to start teaching more of this to bikers. I’ve experienced it. Learnt. But you know about it, you can’t I see it
Pro Tip: Use a pipe cutter for perfectly flat handlebar cuts. Takes a bit longer but you never have to correct it and requires less filing afterwards.
Not a bad way to go. I love a pipe cutter. used to be my fave method but I've become an angle grinder guy.
I purchased a $30 cut saw guide to clasp onto the bar/stem and then cut with hacksaw.
@@Chris-de2qc That's what a lot of guys use and it's faster but more messy. The pipe cutter is, precise, cheaper and cleaner but takes about a minute or two more.. Almost no filing needed afterwards.
@@believe8263 I saw a video of a guy using a pipe cutter and it took him forever so I was afraid to go that route lol
@@Chris-de2qc the cutting wheel on a pipe cutter will get dull with use. Those wheels are able to be sharpened as well as replaced. Dull cutting tools typically don’t do a good job when trying to cut things.
Been riding mountain bikes DH,CC for many years. I used to perseverate about all kinds of handwringing set up details including the one mentioned in this Video, which is well done by the way.
All that changed a few years back when i added enduro motorcycle riding to my mix of activities. The perspective gained from riding a machine that has REAL forces to deal with revealed to me how silly it is get so hung up on minutia over a 20-30lb machine that is mostly suspended by your legs and takes comparatively little physical input to pilot.
Some truth to this. I started in moto and got my pro card in the early 80s. The moto should make you better on your bike too. More comfortable a speed.
Great video. Blake is the man btw. Always makes ya smile. He's a top bloke.
He's a joy!
This guys are absolutely life saver for me, at 6'7" 255 pounds I followed their formula for sizing the bike and reach and also handlebar witdh and it made all the difference in the world.
So what are you running now? We are same size and I want to upgrade from 680..
@ferg. I got a 800mm handlebar with a 35mm rise and checked my reach utilizing their method of balancing the bike on 2 ladders that's on another one of their videos and worked out great.
Very informative mtb channel 👍 Alex just look like around 40, much younger then your real age. Mtb is just an amazing sport to keep people young and fit.
Thanks for that!
best mtb channel on youtube. now i know i need to be at 750mm. funny enough thats where i had choked up to to feel natural. lucky
Nice!! Makes sense that your hands went there. Cut off them bits on the ends before they snag a tree. : )
@@JoyOfBike absolutely
I run 800s but I have crazy wide shoulders, buddy of mine is 6"4' and I'm a good 4 inches wide than he is, I feel like shoulder width is more important than your height
The multiplier assumes average shoulder width, upper arm length and hand width.
There are more detailed ways to assess optimal bar width, especially if you have special proportions.
Learn all the details about bar width (and way more) at www.llbmtb.com. Enjoy a free month with the code JOYOFBIKE.
This is nothing surprising if you are 7"
This topic is seldom discussed. Very informational. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!