This is a great company that stands behind its products. I’m a customer for life based on how they treated me for a minor problem. The videos are sometime corny, but love the products!!!
Pro tip: Wadded up damp cloth on a string, shoved into the handlebar end before cutting begins, helps pull out any lingering shavings without much hassle or sending dust airborne.
Hey Calvin, recently started working at a bike shop, one of the mechanics there who is just a genius of bike maintenance and repair was telling me he studied under you at a bicycle institute after I mentioned I love watching your videos, which I thought was so cool! Keep up the awesome work.
I realized after I started to develop pain in my shoulders that my bars at 29" were way too wide for me. So I determined the optimal width using the "zen" method: I straddled my bike, closed my eyes, held my arms comfortably in front of me, and then let my hands drop naturally onto the bars, which landed them about two inches from the end on each side, so I cut off 1.5 inches using a pipe cutter, and even after just a few minutes of test riding, I could already feel my shoulders relaxing. In theory, I'm sacrificing stability, but I think my shoulders will be happier in the long run.
Was having a so-so day and these guys made my day. And... just realized my handlebars are wider than needed, this video will help me do it very soon. Thanks for the video
Great vid fellas. It's not a bad idea to start your cut on aluminum bars with a pipe cutter because it will give you the cleanest line around the bar. Finish the cut with a finer tooth hacksaw blade that will naturally follow the shallow cut from there and you have a job well done with very common and inexpensive multi-purpose tools.
I’ve recently had two bar strikes on trees at speed, which resulted in some lovely bruises on my thighs (both legs). After watching this, my bars seem almost 100mm too wide for me! Definitely going to cut some off. Thanks guys! Oh and alloy bars are relatively cheap if you cut too much off.
I did pretty much what you did before I saw this video. I wrapped electrical tape on the bar, (Alum), (making sure my shift and brake levers fit comfortably), and cut along the tape freehand. I then took the cutoff and used it for a measure, applied the tape to the other end of the bar, and cut at the end of the electr. tape, as straight as I could. Deburred it. Worked out fine. A millimeter or two makes no diff. when the grips or tape are back on. Good luck.
I really liked the new more lively and humorous approach. Not sure why other commenters disliked it. Maybe cheesy, so what? Still funny! I prefer new style over the old "cold bare details" style
@@benjaminvg8018 Not really. Just puzzled at how someone can be so dimwitted as to like this video. But hey, there are no laws against it, so have at it.
I had 780 bars. I'd wait till I was in a good groove and comfortable, then look at my hand position. I was running on the inside of the grip more, so I cut 10mm off each end. Now I ride almost at the end of the grip. Perfect at 760
Technically, you can’t use calipers to directly measure the thickness of the cut a blade will make. It’s called the kerf thickness and you need to make a sample cut to determine the thickness or know the offset of the teeth dimenion. Teeth are always slightly offset to the alternating sides of the blade to intentionally make a wider cut than the thickness of the blade so that the blade does not bind in the material being cut. Ok, fine, we’re talking a negligible amount, and these are bike mechanics anyway, not precision machinists! Also, if you make with an ultra-fine sharpie the position of the shifter/brake clamp before loosening then you can reference that and never have to guess at the angle later. Thanks, gentlemen.
I found a video a while ago, recommended multiplying your height in cm by 4.40 to give bar length in mm as your maximum. Go less if you like but not more. To wide will move the work from the muscle groups in shoulders and back up to just the shoulders and cause damage. Iv found this to be perfect for me. Im 165cm x 4.4 = 726mm bars. I run 720mm comfortably.
I usually shape the sandpaper/emery cloth into small cones. One with the grit inside and one outside. Then I use these to debur the inside and outside diameter by turning it around the sharp edges. I get better roundness this way.
Carbon dust is exceptionally toxic. Hope u wore a min p2 mask or damped down at least. Ideally both. Jigsaw would defo send fine dust (fairly invisible to eye) into air
You should definitely be wearing a dust mask for the carbon. 20 years from now, you’ll be glad you did. My dad and my grandfather both died from asbestos exposure; mesothelioma.
I have shoulder issues, and have been finding a wider bar is fine, generally, but pulling up and back on the bar and turning at speed is a problem (think of a shoulder working like indexed shifting). I got back to a much more natural lean-turn, and can wheelie easier in my 620. Plus I find the longer stem length adds to stability more than bar width (again, more at speed). Sure did feel weird initially!
I used angle grinder and it took like 10 seconds to cut both ends doesn't matter if you cut slight off handlebar grip is going to hide cut end anyway. If you use some end cap then it needs to be 90 degree cut and this method would be better.
I like my brakes and shifters positioned like Truman described. I guess my hands are kinda wide-ish, and the webbing of my hand will bands into the shifter if it isn’t positioned a little more onboard than his Calvin describes.
I was on the 780mm bandwagon for a while, but was getting tired of having to turn my wheel sideways to get into doorways since i store my bike inside. I went to 760mm and although it's only 40mm shorter they feel better and it's a little easier to get into doorways.
I have my own bicycles and have no appetite for new ones no matter how good they might look . I would not forget the day when a cop defamed me in front of a bicycle shop owner unwittingly many years ago . I was so embarrassed .
am I strange for prefering the shifter mount on the outside of the brake mount, a bit closer to the grips? i just love it when the shift levers are exactly below the grips and the brake lever further away, allowing for intuitive one finger braking. of course i place my hands right at the edge of the grips and sometimes even put my palms on the bar end plugs as an alternative position on long rides. the outside placement of the shifters allows for an easy finger to shifter reach even when holding like that
Thanx ParkTool, i was always feeling "different" for setting up my cockpit in that 'unusual' way, unlike the rest of the setups i see. Haven't tried iSpec or simmilar integrated clamp yet though..
Marketing came in thick at the sg72...lol....I'll stick with my tube cutter from the hardware store. Accurate cuts and no ducking around....sure that tapes measuring 20mm too lol all bent up. Park, I know it's just bikes, but calipers? A ruler?
LoverOfPhotography vote? I wouldn't wanna force the metric system on people, rather just encourage people to learn it. I know both systems and it comes in handy
jason scheffel Its the evolution of cycling. My 2025 bike will have 9 meter bars and 1x 65 speeds, 49er inch wheels, and 12 suspension components I will lock out at all times.
Hi there.. I had 580mm bars on my "26, but I'm widen it a little bit. I have a 750mm on it just to try otherwise I will trim it down to maybe 740mm or 680mm. One other thing. I don't know at what degrees but I like my brake levers at a level/ angle that my natural hand movement can get to it. I know this is an old video and I hope you guys read this comment. What do you guys think of my 26' XC bike with 75mm stem and 750mm bars. What do you guys recommend me? Thanks for sharing
Just sawed my bar yesterday. Had nothing better to do. Unavoidably the cut was not straight. Wish i had the tool, can’t see any diy for that. But it’s a lame tool to have when it’s a one off.
Lay it on us. How do you equate bar width from your q-factor? Sounds very interesting. I guess i see a major problem being that most bike models have the same q-factor throughout there size range.
All other things being equal (same bike model!), the bigger rider needs a wider bar -- no problem with that. BTW, I love your method with measuring a "push-up stance", it's a first time I saw it ever but makes sense absolutely! But, at the same time, for a given rider and preferred riding style, the wider the q-factor the wider handlebar is needed. It is one of a contributing factors, very important though. Please don't take my word "equation" too literally, though, I don't have a magic calculation formula at hand. Just think about it: The wider q-factor, the more sideways forces are generated and the more *leverage* at the bar is needed to compensate. I realized that when using one and the same drop down handlebar on two different bikes, and it felt right on one and way too narrow on the other. Then i measured q-factor and guess what? People ask for wider tyres, bigger wheels, more tyre clearance, more gears (increases chain line!) and all that is asking for a wider q-factor. Hence the tendency to fit wider and wider bars to "modern" bikes. But it is not always "better".
Park tool branded machete... I would buy that...
Park MCT-1
Thinky Pain yes!
Oh yess
Tomi Saaranen hello. Aha.
Wouldn't be surprised if they made one
I try not to subscribe to commercial accounts but Park Tool has the most respectful advertisements to it’s viewership. Honest and ethical.
Honestly for the amount of effort they put into their videos they should have more veiws and subscribers
This is a great company that stands behind its products. I’m a customer for life based on how they treated me for a minor problem. The videos are sometime corny, but love the products!!!
Pro tip: Wadded up damp cloth on a string, shoved into the handlebar end before cutting begins, helps pull out any lingering shavings without much hassle or sending dust airborne.
A good old-fashioned shop vacuum will also work for cleaning out that mm of fragments. Loving the tutorials!
Hey Calvin, recently started working at a bike shop, one of the mechanics there who is just a genius of bike maintenance and repair was telling me he studied under you at a bicycle institute after I mentioned I love watching your videos, which I thought was so cool! Keep up the awesome work.
I realized after I started to develop pain in my shoulders that my bars at 29" were way too wide for me. So I determined the optimal width using the "zen" method: I straddled my bike, closed my eyes, held my arms comfortably in front of me, and then let my hands drop naturally onto the bars, which landed them about two inches from the end on each side, so I cut off 1.5 inches using a pipe cutter, and even after just a few minutes of test riding, I could already feel my shoulders relaxing. In theory, I'm sacrificing stability, but I think my shoulders will be happier in the long run.
This is just a useful tool commercial
I love it
Was having a so-so day and these guys made my day. And... just realized my handlebars are wider than needed, this video will help me do it very soon. Thanks for the video
Rumour has it, three cameramen were jabbed in the eye by Calvin's machete in the opening scene.
Great vid fellas. It's not a bad idea to start your cut on aluminum bars with a pipe cutter because it will give you the cleanest line around the bar. Finish the cut with a finer tooth hacksaw blade that will naturally follow the shallow cut from there and you have a job well done with very common and inexpensive multi-purpose tools.
I’ve recently had two bar strikes on trees at speed, which resulted in some lovely bruises on my thighs (both legs). After watching this, my bars seem almost 100mm too wide for me! Definitely going to cut some off. Thanks guys!
Oh and alloy bars are relatively cheap if you cut too much off.
I did pretty much what you did before I saw this video. I wrapped electrical tape on the bar, (Alum),
(making sure my shift and brake levers fit comfortably), and cut along the tape freehand.
I then took the cutoff and used it for a measure, applied the tape to the other end of the bar,
and cut at the end of the electr. tape, as straight as I could. Deburred it. Worked out fine.
A millimeter or two makes no diff. when the grips or tape are back on. Good luck.
I really liked the new more lively and humorous approach. Not sure why other commenters disliked it. Maybe cheesy, so what? Still funny! I prefer new style over the old "cold bare details" style
Love the cheesy acting 😂
It wasn't meant to be. Doh!!!
R/whooosh
Glad that you and the rest of the five year olds enjoyed it.
@@onlyonecannoli3952 Someone is angry 😡
@@benjaminvg8018 Not really. Just puzzled at how someone can be so dimwitted as to like this video. But hey, there are no laws against it, so have at it.
Calvin and Truman, you two are awesome! Thank you so much for this video!
I just took the 780mm bars on my new bike down to 730mm which is a bit wider than my last bike. This video made me feel much better about my decision.
After cutting down carbon bars, I like to apply a small amount of c.a. to the surface of the cut to seal the carbon. Just a nice finishing touch.
Before you buy the handlebars, run around the bike shop pretending to ride a rock garden
That is actually an interesting idea.
Or, at the shop, while holding the bars drop down to do push-ups and check the fit!
Awesome video guys, like always!! I rarely watch these for actual repair help, but entertainment, because these are just soo good!! 👍🏻
Again
Love all these videos - especially to help us get through the pandemic. All the corny comments and stunts are great too.
I had 780 bars. I'd wait till I was in a good groove and comfortable, then look at my hand position. I was running on the inside of the grip more, so I cut 10mm off each end. Now I ride almost at the end of the grip. Perfect at 760
How tall are you and does your wing span matcj?
Technically, you can’t use calipers to directly measure the thickness of the cut a blade will make. It’s called the kerf thickness and you need to make a sample cut to determine the thickness or know the offset of the teeth dimenion. Teeth are always slightly offset to the alternating sides of the blade to intentionally make a wider cut than the thickness of the blade so that the blade does not bind in the material being cut. Ok, fine, we’re talking a negligible amount, and these are bike mechanics anyway, not precision machinists!
Also, if you make with an ultra-fine sharpie the position of the shifter/brake clamp before loosening then you can reference that and never have to guess at the angle later.
Thanks, gentlemen.
Third.........Missing that hair.... eh, maybe not.
No coments on Park tool coment?
Not in my watch!
These videos are so good. The way they teach is awesome!
The 14 people who disliked cut with metal hacksaw blades in both directions
Doesnt matter when you do that, especially not with aluminium.
I found a video a while ago, recommended multiplying your height in cm by 4.40 to give bar length in mm as your maximum. Go less if you like but not more. To wide will move the work from the muscle groups in shoulders and back up to just the shoulders and cause damage. Iv found this to be perfect for me. Im 165cm x 4.4 = 726mm bars. I run 720mm comfortably.
Interesting.
I usually shape the sandpaper/emery cloth into small cones. One with the grit inside and one outside. Then I use these to debur the inside and outside diameter by turning it around the sharp edges. I get better roundness this way.
The push up position method works for me guys as i have quite long reach..nice one guys
Very comprehensive video! Great job! You guys must be instructors because you guys seem like experts.
My favorite position for my cockpit levers is where ever Walmart puts them
Legend has it you ride Walmart bikes in shop condition because you love the danger
Park Tool
The Gold Standard
hmm, I cut my carbon fiber bar with a jig saw. Took about 1 min to measure and cut each side. It's interesting to see the OCD version of what I did.
Carbon dust is exceptionally toxic. Hope u wore a min p2 mask or damped down at least. Ideally both.
Jigsaw would defo send fine dust (fairly invisible to eye) into air
Calvin, you guys rock! love these videos!
You guys' videos are the best.
did push ups and measured hand spacing. 700 mm bars measured right and work great
Awesome instruction! Thank you!
Excellent tutorial
Great video and great job parktools !! 👍👍
You should definitely be wearing a dust mask for the carbon. 20 years from now, you’ll be glad you did. My dad and my grandfather both died from asbestos exposure; mesothelioma.
I have shoulder issues, and have been finding a wider bar is fine, generally, but pulling up and back on the bar and turning at speed is a problem (think of a shoulder working like indexed shifting). I got back to a much more natural lean-turn, and can wheelie easier in my 620. Plus I find the longer stem length adds to stability more than bar width (again, more at speed). Sure did feel weird initially!
Dude with the stash reminds me of the random guy at the pub that really wants to talk, but you dont want to.
I’ve this tool by Park Tool but I find that using my Ridgid plumber pipe tubing cutter a lot faster. Just spin a few round and job done
I like the brake lever angle about 30° and away from the handlebars about 20mm....given a bit more leverage
just brilliant - great job, guys
I used angle grinder and it took like 10 seconds to cut both ends doesn't matter if you cut slight off handlebar grip is going to hide cut end anyway.
If you use some end cap then it needs to be 90 degree cut and this method would be better.
I like my brakes and shifters positioned like Truman described. I guess my hands are kinda wide-ish, and the webbing of my hand will bands into the shifter if it isn’t positioned a little more onboard than his Calvin describes.
This episode should be on Comedy Central.
Really great fun and tech.
All good tips. Thank you👍
I won't piss Calvin off.
I was on the 780mm bandwagon for a while, but was getting tired of having to turn my wheel sideways to get into doorways since i store my bike inside. I went to 760mm and although it's only 40mm shorter they feel better and it's a little easier to get into doorways.
Nice. Make the bikes fit into your life.
i like my brake and shift levers on the handlebars.
It might sound weird but I like my shift and brake levers vertical
Shifters on the down tube, and a coaster brake.
Most of his knowledge and authority comes from his majestic mustache.
Handlebar baby!
That's a gorgeous bike. Currently near impossible to find with the bike shortage.
I have my own bicycles and have no appetite for new ones no matter how good they might look . I would not forget the day when a cop defamed me in front of a bicycle shop owner unwittingly many years ago . I was so embarrassed .
My method is make them ab 3-4 inches away from front of seat so u dont hit knees when u bar spin
Corney but very informative. Park is my go-to DIY bike spot. Thanks
Calvin waving a machete around is terrifying.
I like my shifters and brakes where they are easy to reach by just extending my fingers but don’t bother me when I’m just holding onto the handlebars.
Great vid, as usu, fellas!
I need one of them saw guides, cut bars and steer tube down yesterday, not a straight cut, I ride my bars at around 550 to 600 (track bike)
I put the handlebar in a vise and use a plumbing deburring tool.
Do you have a similar video for choosing the best stem length?
Like for the new handlebar babies
Me at the end of the video: I don't even want shorter handlebars, why did I watch this?
Iike to use chain saw
My technique is to mind you current setup and then try all your buddies bikes choose your favourite and ask for specs
I have a pipe deburring tool for the ends of tubing .
How did the "feeling" test compare to the push up test? (In terms of bar width measurement.) thanks!
am I strange for prefering the shifter mount on the outside of the brake mount, a bit closer to the grips? i just love it when the shift levers are exactly below the grips and the brake lever further away, allowing for intuitive one finger braking. of course i place my hands right at the edge of the grips and sometimes even put my palms on the bar end plugs as an alternative position on long rides. the outside placement of the shifters allows for an easy finger to shifter reach even when holding like that
There is no strange in comfort. Whatever works for you is great.
Thanx ParkTool, i was always feeling "different" for setting up my cockpit in that 'unusual' way, unlike the rest of the setups i see. Haven't tried iSpec or simmilar integrated clamp yet though..
Please tell me no handlebar has been hurt during the production of this film.
I think Calvin should star in the next Machete movie alongside Danny Trejo.
Marketing came in thick at the sg72...lol....I'll stick with my tube cutter from the hardware store. Accurate cuts and no ducking around....sure that tapes measuring 20mm too lol all bent up. Park, I know it's just bikes, but calipers? A ruler?
Hahahaha you guys are awesome! Thanks for the laugh
The machete would make a great hipster handlebar.
You guys are awesome. Using the Metric system in the US. Lead the pack people, Vote Metric in the US!
LoverOfPhotography vote? I wouldn't wanna force the metric system on people, rather just encourage people to learn it. I know both systems and it comes in handy
@@placesaroundus When does imperial come in handy?
LoverOfPhotography always
@@placesaroundus Actual situations please...
LoverOfPhotography what is this grammar school? You want me to 'show my work'? People like you created common core
I personally like my handlebars exactly 7886mm wide. I think I am going to get wider bars though
And that's nearly 8 meters wide, you know...
Явор Марков Yes it gives me lots of control
jason scheffel
Its the evolution of cycling. My 2025 bike will have 9 meter bars and 1x 65 speeds, 49er inch wheels, and 12 suspension components I will lock out at all times.
okleydokley will your suspension be made by rockshox, fox, or apple. With Siri built in
Hi there.. I had 580mm bars on my "26, but I'm widen it a little bit. I have a 750mm on it just to try otherwise I will trim it down to maybe 740mm or 680mm.
One other thing. I don't know at what degrees but I like my brake levers at a level/ angle that my natural hand movement can get to it.
I know this is an old video and I hope you guys read this comment.
What do you guys think of my 26' XC bike with 75mm stem and 750mm bars. What do you guys recommend me?
Thanks for sharing
This made me laugh so hard
Always good to cut one first...
Those expensive tools so not necessary. Hack saw, bandsaw, dremels work great.
3,16 use your grips (only if they have metal ends) they are also level and stuff
Or use an.old grip, cut the end off, turn around/put on backwArds...instant guide
The test ride at the end is missing.
Pipe cutter, pipe cutter! So much cleaner.
Did he just cut one side?!
yes
capitan futuro wait really? Arent you supposed to cut both so its even?
Sean hahaha you must cut both sides
capitan futuro i knew it lol i tjought u only cut one
Better safe than sorry
What is the best way of removing and reinstalling the grips?
I prefer air to put on grips. ruclips.net/video/DN2Q8tnOLoo/видео.html
Lift the inner Edge with your finger,Spray some Brake-cleaner or alcohol in the inside and pull it Off.
I like long bars because I can hook them around a tree at the top of a steep hill and take a break without taking my feet off the pedals lol.
So which way do the teeth point on the saw blade. Towards the saw handle or away from it?
Away from the handle. Cut on the push, not on the pull.
I'm going to buy a saw guide so I can use it once every 4-5 years.
Okie Doke
My thoughts exactly. Plus if you have lockons you already have a saw guide. Just use the two locking rings.
Just sawed my bar yesterday. Had nothing better to do. Unavoidably the cut was not straight. Wish i had the tool, can’t see any diy for that. But it’s a lame tool to have when it’s a one off.
$45 tool at that 😂😂😂😂 I use a dremel with a cut off wheel, much more useful for lots of other things.whuch is a better value.
an actual hand deburrer tool works great for this application too.
Dremel with cutoff wheel is best and easiest.
My favorite method of *sizing* the handlebar is taking a q-factor into equation. Have you ever thought about it?
Lay it on us. How do you equate bar width from your q-factor? Sounds very interesting. I guess i see a major problem being that most bike models have the same q-factor throughout there size range.
All other things being equal (same bike model!), the bigger rider needs a wider bar -- no problem with that. BTW, I love your method with measuring a "push-up stance", it's a first time I saw it ever but makes sense absolutely! But, at the same time, for a given rider and preferred riding style, the wider the q-factor the wider handlebar is needed. It is one of a contributing factors, very important though.
Please don't take my word "equation" too literally, though, I don't have a magic calculation formula at hand. Just think about it: The wider q-factor, the more sideways forces are generated and the more *leverage* at the bar is needed to compensate. I realized that when using one and the same drop down handlebar on two different bikes, and it felt right on one and way too narrow on the other. Then i measured q-factor and guess what?
People ask for wider tyres, bigger wheels, more tyre clearance, more gears (increases chain line!) and all that is asking for a wider q-factor. Hence the tendency to fit wider and wider bars to "modern" bikes. But it is not always "better".
Push up stance makes sense for optimal position under descent braking, but I use wider for more leverage turning, and less constriction breathing.
i gots to know what flat bars are those on the Salsa bike !
is it the salt flat delux ?
Thats correct!
Yes.. My bars are two wide
Does cutting the bar compromise its integrity? Would it be as solid as it was before the cut?
The bars integrity will be the same or better. When you cut the bars you have a little less leverage to exert on them.
Narrow bars are stronger, less leverage force.
Ive never cut down any of my bars, 800mm is perfect for me