At risk of contradicting everyone else, I quite liked the background music. Great tutorial. Something I needed since I just picked up woodworking again after 12 years.
Pure tung oil actually will not go bad. No need to worry about that part. Linseed oil can go rancid but not tung oil. I think you're going way too fast with coats. Gotta let the tung oil cure....which can take up to a week, between coats. if you let it cure and truly harden between coats, you'll get some depth in the finish. if you just do coats each hour, you just end up with one well-absorbed coat...and that's it. The finish will have very very little thickness, in the end, as nothing hardened or cured between your so-called "coats".
If you know so goddamned much, why you watching this ‘how to’ video? Just to insert your unsolicited opinions? To show how super superior you are? Eat shit, mungo 🖕🏾
Heating up pure Tung oil will also help it penetrate and apply well; you don’t have to dilute it. Deeper penetration does little for protection, but it does make the grain pop a little more. This is the “flood method,” which is popular, but takes longer to cure, uses more oil, and can lead to leaching problems. I’ve had better results applying thin coats and buffing off all excess right away.
Instructions on my 100% tung oil say a different process. You applied, wiped off, waited an hour & re-applied. Mine say apply, wait an hour, wipe off, re-apply 12 hours later.
Unlike some of my fellow commenters.....I actually enjoyed the music you attached to your video. I found it both informative AND relaxing! As a “Type A” recently retired federal wildlife law enforcement officer, and prior to that a career Navy Officer, relaxing is now paramount -and not always easily achieved. As an obviously amateur woodworker, I especially appreciated your attached “pseudo / wannabe “pure” tung oil list! Incidentally, I saw on another video you produced, you mentioned photographing the Organ Mountains. Woo-hooo! I’m a NMSU alumni....spent a significant part of my youth in Alamogordo, ElPaso, and Las Cruces. My daughter earned her Masters and teaching certificate there....and now teaches high school biology in ‘Cruces! Back to the issue.....this video and its value in watching? Bravo-Zulu, job well done, amigo!
I appreciated the music-not too loud-just right...Regarding relaxation-If you are having troubles relaxing I have been practicing Qigong and breathing exercises for years-helps me...Deep breathing activates the parasympathetic nervous system which tells the body to go into relax/rest/safe mode...Try it!
@@wam44 That was very kind of you. In today’s world, a simple kindness is all the more appreciated. So thank you for taking the time to reply.....and I’ll give it a try!
@@captaincoyote1792 Hi again-I facilitate free online classes which I moved online after the pandemic started. Feel free to join and share with friends/family/coworkers-All are welcome! Online Qigong & Meditation Practice is offered weekdays starting at 12:30 p.m. CST-link below I also teach Yoga and Qigong on Saturdays starting at 11am CST The link below works for all classes-If you have any questions, please get in touch-wam44@juno.com us04web.zoom.us/j/9320331087?pwd=TStMZkM4M1RLQ3NEWDZQVk51THhqUT09 Meeting ID: 932 033 1087 Password: 097307
Phenomenal video, very well made and helpful. The music was a nice touch. Thanks for sharing the knowledge man, now I can finish my projects with confidence from experience which I did not earn
Very good instructions, although I suggest for very tight grained hardwoods that a 1:1:1 tung oil:turpentine:mineral spirits be used for the first coat, then proceed as you did here. Japan Drier added sparingly will speed tung oil curing for all coats. Add a small quantity of pine tar (sourced from equine suppliers) to enhance anti-microbial properties. Note that a distinct pine smell will be temporarily noticeable from the finished piece, and it can slightly darken the finish, so test before applying.
I use limonene (orange oil) which is technically "citrus rind oil." i cut pure tung oil 1:1 for general purpose first coat but not always. Closed pore wood such as White Oak needs a more absorbent first coat. A tung oil finish on the solid body guitars I build works very well tung oil takes dyes too.
I didn't even think about mixing it with dyes, that's awesome. The dyes I have used I either mix with water or denatured alcohol, are you just adding dyes with tung oil/mineral spirits? I'll have to play around with that. Thanks for letting me know.
Great video thanks. I'm using some old pallet collars as raised beds but want to give them some kind of treatment before they go out into 'the wild'. I decided on using Tung Oil but didn't know the best way to apply the first coat after I've sanded the collars. Now I know and the orange oil type is really helpful. Don't want to use any nasty thinners in wood that I'm growing food in. Cheers, from (a very soggy) Somerset, England.
Thanks!! I started here & learned quite a bit about tung oil. Almost bought the Minwax thinking I was getting tung oil but between what you mentioned, actually in you comments, and what I found elsewhere, that Minwax isn't real tung oil.
My take is that Minwax is to be avoided, on the whole. If anything is to be used, it would be their stains, but never their mixes of stain and poly....or these other so-called finishes.
Newbie here! Thank you for this video. This might be a silly question but after reading the article I am still confused as to what is wrong with the oil/vanish mix. I purchased the Hope's not knowing it wasn't pure, and I am trying to understand and figure out if I need to return the product or not. It's for outdoor garden bed. TIA!
I want to apply it on chopsticks that I painted, I used acrylic paint on a wooden base. After the paintjob I varnished it, but I think I need an extra layer (foor safety/protection) of Tung Oil. Any advice?
I'm using 'Bloxigen' Just spray on top of the oil, paint or whatever and put the top on. Bloxigen is heavier than air and keeps the oxygen off the surface of the finish in the can, bottle or whatever. www.amazon.com/s?k=bloxygen+finish+preserver&crid=368T4S6Z353M2&sprefix=blox%2Caps%2C222&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_6_4
Please could you help me? this oil can I use on floor wood? this floor is inside mi comercial job, which procedure must have I follow? Hi from Mexico City
Excellent, clear video -- thank you! I loved the background music so much, I Shazam'd it to find it. Then I saw you linked in the description. Thank you for supporting musicians and attributing!
Thanks for the dilution tip. The music was a bit loud but it was enjoyable. I have a Cherry wood project that is aged with baking soda and a "traditional cherry" stain wiped on and then off after a minute. Now comes the tung oil to match the original tv cabinet color. BTW - it has been years since I used turpentine but I have a can of it so here goes. Cheers.
why would you use turpentine and mineral spirits ? .... why not just one of these, you are only using as a thinner, assume it's going to evaporate off anyway.
Interesting.. this is also how you do an oil painting ,starting with thinned out coats/layers, making them thicker and thicker, with less and less solvent and more and more oil. Though it has nothing to do with wood grain or soaking in since it is painted on canvas or non-absorbent, but rough surfaces. It has more to do with preventing cracking and even flaking with age.
This may be silly (also a newbie) but I’m reading about the combustibility factor of the rags used in applying the tung oil which is freaking me out. What do you do with your rags after use?
I've stained a butcher block table. Will let it dry completely before adding the Tung Oil. My question is if I dilute the oil with Mineral Spirits will this effect the stain at all? Thanks.
I have never used tung oil as a sealer. I may have to play around with it to see what happens some day. To answer your question, if the stain you used is oil based, then yes, if the stain is water based than not so much. Hope this helps, let me know it it works as a sealer, could save me some time experimenting. Most of the wood I use with tung oil is the wood they base the stain colors on; walnut, ebony, mahogany, cherry, etc. But the woods have very distinct grain patterns which make them look pretty amazing with a bit of oil to make them pop.
Can or should you spray on Tung Oil to walls? I just cover the walls in my Speakeasy inn and was thinking I need to show off all the different wood grains. Tung Oil or something else because its A. Such a big area and B. I'd like to spray?
Thanks for your Vedio. But unfortunately when I watched your Vedio, I have already done the first coat with the pure tung oil. Is there anything I need to do to correct it? Thanks
Thanks so much for this. I'm refurbishing a 1940 snare drum, and tung oil seems to be the weapon of choice to really get in there and bring it back to life. You reaffirmed my choice, so thank you again. BTW the music accompaniment is awesome. Reminds me of Wednesday's Wolves.
Southwest heat and sun defeats all finishes - wood or auto. Boiled linseed goes very dark and degrades. Plastic finishes flake off due to wood movement. Tung oil is the only option, but it must be recoated fairly often. It doesn't darken but the sun does degrade it.
With three coats of pure tung oil, the curing time after the third coat can be longer than a week. It more like three to four weeks, I've found, to finally achieve that hard finish that tells you it's fully cured.
I love the way you accented the purple heart miters with biscuits, it really pops that amateur quality look to your work and makes me want to trust your advice on how to use tung oil.
Yep, but I don't mind the end color either. I think the only wood I don't like the aged color of is walnut. So sad because walnut looks so amazing with just tung oil on it until it gets older and then turns to that tan look.
@@Melodysdadvideos try applying a spar urethane marine grade varnish. They almost always have UV inhibitors which will help retain the colorbetter than anything I have found. As long as you use the satin version and don’t go crazy with it, you can avoid the poured epoxy bar-top look.
I just liked and subscribed to your Channel this is important something lot of people don't know about I'm more familiar with polyurethane and lacquer so thanks for sharing bro
Very nice. Putting a finish on something can take longer than building it. A trick I picked up is to squirt some propane into a container before closing it is an inert gas that keeps things from skinning over going bad. it is no more dangerous than having a can of flammable stuff on the shelf. take the head off the torch first.
Knowing next to nothing about woodworking, I have a question about safety (with regards to disposal and storage). Basically I've heard that tung oil likes to oxidize and that tung oil soaked rags and whatnot tend to get hot as a result. So am I overreacting or is improper storage and disposal an actual fire hazard?
So with pure tung oil no, but...if you thin it with something like mineral spirits or turps that is flammable and combustible, then you need to either rinse off your rags before throwing them away or just let them dry out before throwing them away. The problem is that many products are labeled "Tung Oil" but contain all sorts of additives, thinners, and even different oils. Check out the description to my video: I included a list of such "Tung Oils". I don't recommend those. I prefer a pure 100% Tung Oil, that I can dilute as needed myself which I also provided a link to the one I use.
I'm wanting to oil finish my wood flooring. I haven't seen any orange oil around here. but I don't really care about using it or not. but I need to walk on it in a day or two after finishing. I like the color of the wood. its never been finished . and is about 70 years old as far as I know. it had been covered for years. but I want to leave it bare and finish it. what would be a good oil for a fast drying quick job?
Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with finishing wood floors. I'm not going to pretend to be a resource for that. I can tell you that many oils that have additives/hardeners dry faster than pure varieties so I am sure there is something out there for what you are trying to do, I just don't know what it is of the top of my head.
I used a tung oil finish on a red oak desk box I made for a girlfriend. I love the richness that it gives the wood. BTW, I'm originally from just down the road in El Paso.
Forty years ago I sprung $50.00 for a gallon can of Tung oil. Never had an issue with air. Still dipping out of the same can. Good tip on diluting though. Straight Tung oil on Teak takes a month to dry.
I have only had one container of tung oil ever go bad on me. It formed a grit to it. So when applying it to a piece it feels like you are applying a sandy oil.
True tung oil will thicken up and turn jelly like if exposed to air like that. A great solution is to get a bag of those glass rocks that people put in vases and drop them in the tung oil container to keeep the level. At the top.
Fabulous video! Somewhat surprised though, knowing pure tung oil, that you didn’t wait days between the first applications, and that you didn’t lightly sand between coats. Is it because your first coats had been diluted with turpentine, and because you minimized the bubbles? Any help appreciated, because I’ve got a new and beautiful checkerboard end grain butcher block cutting board and am overdue to reoil all my great wooden utensils!
You can also put water in the bottle to remove the air at the top. It will sink. Enjoyed the second song. Speaks to the true nature of how women approach relationships.
I purchased an unfinished French door. It was ready for staining. I’ve stained it with minwax stain and is allowing it to dry. In a few days I want to add a top clear coat or a sealant so I will use tung oil. Do I just apply the tung oil to the stain coat or do I need to sand it first with a 220 grid sand paper sponge before applying the tung oil?
Most people say that you should let it dry for at least 24 hours between two coats. Have you ever had any trouble by only waiting one hour between each?
I have build several planters boxes. I want to plan herbs and vegetables and we are going to eat them. I have used mahogany wood and I have applied tung oil. They are for outside and they will be exposed to sun and rain. Do you think I should apply any finishing over the tung oil because of UV or discoloring? But, it has to be food safe too. I am trying to bring out the reach color of the wood. Thanks
Mahogany planter boxes, you and I would get along really well. I am a big sipo and sapele fan. If they were my planter boxes, I would buy some plastic planter bins to put inside the boxes. I haven't really tested tung oil's water resistance yet, so I would rather be safe than sorry.
I've been given 1" thick slabs of tulip wood with the bark on that I'll be using for shelving. The person that gave it to me suggested using valoil on it but it's no longer available. My experience with finishing wood is nothing more than moldings and doors. Any suggestions? I'd like to try to preserve the bark and bring out the grain. Water won't be an issue. The slabs are probably at least 3 years old and the bark is intact.
Is that wood stained? I'm wondering about using tung oil to finish after using a wood stain. Seems that a water-based wood stain would be okay in this regard. Any insight on this? Also, I recently did apply non-diluted tung oil to a previously unfinished guitar neck. Seems like it came out really beautiful but it's only been about 24 hours. It's hard maple. As you recommend diluting it first I'm wondering, is there some problem that I many have by not thinning first, and also if I go back now and reapply with thinned tung oil will that help? Thanks a bunch.
Ive never worked with wood but wanting to do some diy stuff using the pre sliced wood ornaments. They all suggest using tung oil to care for the wood pieces. For this kind of situation do I dilute the oil? I also see spray tung oil available. Is it best to brush on with paint brush, rub on with a cloth, or spray on? Diluted or straight? The wood pieces vary in size from 2.0 in.-3 1/2in.
I purchased a table with a shine spot on it like you showed in the video, they must have not wiped it down when it was drying , So now that it is dry is there anything I can do to make it go away ?
I am sorry for taking so long to respond. Was the table finished with pure tung oil?If it was and is still wet you could wipe it down with a paper towel. But since it is dry, you might be better to just leave it alone. Do you have a link to a photo of it online?
This is certainly one way of treating wood with tung oil and it is also a quick way. However in terms of providing the best looking and most durable finish, it is not the best way. As tung oil is a drying oil, each successive coat has to cure properly and that takes several days rather than around an hour, for each coat to dry. Before applying the second and all subsequent coats of oil, the previous coat should be lightly sanded with around 400 grit, but only after it has properly cured. If you want to read an authoritative article that compares the superior properties of tung oil with other oils and how to use it correctly to finish and protect wood, see: www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths Whether for interior or exterior wood, there is no finer method for finishing and protecting wood than using tung oil. If maintained, it is more resistant to mould, rot and moisture ingress than any other finish. Paint, varnish, wood stain etc will all eventually flake or let moisture in. Once that has happened, the only option is to completely strip back to bare wood and re-treat. One final thought to anyone wanting to make your interior or exterior wood grain really pop with colour and contrast, try the ancient Japanese wood-charring method of Shou Sugi Ban, prior to treatment with tung oil. The extent of charring can be to your taste and is worth experimenting with. However, for exterior wood, once you have tried this, you will never want to go back to using wood stain.
Stephen Wright oh good, cause it sounded like you never have and were just quoting that lady's article☺. I've been using it for years. Refer to your article you linked: "The oils dont really "dry" or evaporate; they "harden" or cure." You don't layer it like a urethane the way you are describing. Pure Tung oil doesn't work like that. As far as sanding between coats, I have noticed no difference so I don't bother. But to each his own. I use pure tung oil weekly, and made this video for people who are frustrated using it. That's a good article you cited though, I remember reading it years ago.
Stephen Wright I just watch some examples of that method of wood burning. I'm so glad you said that because I was wondering if it could be used in this case. Definitely going to try it
I have to say YUP even with Boiled Lin Seed oil and Tru-oil several days dry between coats sand paper and 0000 steel-wool between coats there is one exception 1st coat needs several HOURS being cut dries quicker after that 2nd coat needs few days to dry. pending application 0000 Steel-Wool or sandpaper work just fine. But after 2nd coat needs a few days for drying
Question. I am thinking of applying pure Tung Oil on a unfinished guitar. I have done it in the past with success; however, it was many years ago and my memory is foggy. Additionally, this time I plan to add dye. I am mixing Keda liquid aniline dye to acetone and doing a 50/50 mix with Tung Oil. Seemed OK on a test piece. Ideally, I will do 1 coat of this. Then the following coat will be a heavy coat of Tung Oil only (no dye or acetone) as recommended by Real Milk Paint (technically for the first coat). Let soak, wipe off any puddling for even polymerization, and thin coats from there. Sorry for long backstory. My question is........... Should I finish both sides of the guitar? The first time, years ago, I did the back first, then front & sides. I figured gravity would help w/ the penetration. But since I will be dying the wood this time, I was curious if I should dye the entire body, front & back, then hang to dry. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Because pine is less dense, is diluting it as necessary? Or is Tung oil on pine wood essentially polishing a turd? (Looking to protect a dining table, but trying to avoid poly).
Pine has its own terps so the solvent will probably help the two oils co-mingle in that first layer. Also, it can dry out as much as any other. I'm not an expert, but I'd do it.
Liked the DIY. Have a question, I did 3 coats on Bocote wood but I always end up with a white haze after a week? I am doing all 3 coats thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits and pure 100% tung oil. Thanks for any help.
Question. Im.new at all of this. If I'm making an outdoor table. To I stain first then use the tung oil? If so, after the tung oil am I able to apply polyurethane as well?
Do you want it waterproof? Don't poly then. You can stain, wait for recommend dry time or add stain to pure tung oil. Tung oil is easy to repair or maintenance by adding more. Poly is not. Tung oil is beautiful if done correctly. Takes time and patience.
A little oil-based wood stain in the oil will do the trick. I've also just stained the wood first and then applied tung on top. If you want a more complex effect and your wood has tanin, you can treat it with iron wash, let it dry, and apply undoctored tung. So far that's produced good results on hemlock, Doug, and oak.
Jeff Gillis, pure tung oil is an all natural product used for centuries in China, very light golden finish coloration, will require a few to several coats and will stain, seal and finish the wood all in one. Just be sure it is 100% pure or you might as well use BLO. BLO (boiled linseed oil) is a chemical compound of linseed oil and other chemicals combined and finishes darker than tung but also much faster. Don't confuse this with pure linseed oil, which while linen was a thriving product was readily available and used for the same purpose but has a significantly longer drying/curing time. Danish oil, again, chemical compound of oil and such, but comes in a few different shades of coloration. Also has a fairly short drying/curing time. Of the 3 choices, tung will take more coats and more time but, and this is significant to me, tung is the only one that has no or very low VOC, unless you add it, and is ok to use on food grade surfaces. It will seal wood well enough that the Chinese had used it to build ships for centuries. It can be reapplied if the finish fades, as long as no other sealant has been applied. It will not get a high gloss unless you polish with a gloss finish, but instead will give a hand rubbed satin like finish naturally. It is a natural resin forming oil that hardens and seals through the process of oxidization. Full cure can take up to 30 days and item should be kept out of direct sunlight until it is cured. There is a site called Real Milk Paint that has some serious amounts of DIY content concerning tung oil use, if ya need more info, that's a good spot to start.
@@kennythiessen5044 thx kenny. Another question, as ive heard that walnut will fade over time and its suggested that a uv poly wilk protect it from this fade with exposure to ambient daylight over time. Anythoughts on uv protection for walnut?
Great video! I have a solid mahogany front door. It opens onto my front porch, so is protected from wet weather and UV damage. It has a tung finish. The door is now 15 years old. When I got it, the guy that hung the door said to put tung oil on it every year. I had someone do that for about 4 years, then he retired so I stopped. We live near a railroad line and there occurs an accumulation of dirty grit plus pollen on the door every year. Lately I have just been wiping it off with a wet rag occasionally. My question for you is should there be a deeper cleaning done with mineral spirits and then tung oil re-applied, maybe thinning the first coat? I know nothing about maintaining wood, but I want to do the correct thing to keep the door in good shape. TIA.
Wow, Myrna. That door should last almost forever. Mineral spirits will not remove any of the cured tung oil. It I I permanent. If there is sun damage, a light sanding and light reapplication of oil would be ok. Otherwise, just keep it clean.
Myrna, Try a high quality lemon oil polish. It cleans, nourishes and protects. Maybe once a month. Experiment with how your door “reacts” after your initial application. My family has used lemon oil on hand finished rifle stocks ( coated in pure tung oil) for years with great success. It sounds like a beautiful door! Be well, Shawn
I did build the frames. I am a photographer and make custom frames for clients. I haven't made a how to make a frame video yet. There are quite a few good videos on how to make frames already on RUclips, I'm not sure I will make one.
When using oil, your surface needs be like a sponge to soak it in and hold onto it. Painted products are already sealed off so another finish would be better for your application.
You didn't have to go this hard on the music my guy. It is WILDLY good. Love it.
At risk of contradicting everyone else, I quite liked the background music. Great tutorial. Something I needed since I just picked up woodworking again after 12 years.
The music sucked!
ruclips.net/video/XmIqIVxUuKs/видео.html
You are welcome!
Pure tung oil actually will not go bad. No need to worry about that part. Linseed oil can go rancid but not tung oil. I think you're going way too fast with coats. Gotta let the tung oil cure....which can take up to a week, between coats. if you let it cure and truly harden between coats, you'll get some depth in the finish. if you just do coats each hour, you just end up with one well-absorbed coat...and that's it. The finish will have very very little thickness, in the end, as nothing hardened or cured between your so-called "coats".
If you know so goddamned much, why you watching this ‘how to’ video? Just to insert your unsolicited opinions? To show how super superior you are? Eat shit, mungo 🖕🏾
Heating up pure Tung oil will also help it penetrate and apply well; you don’t have to dilute it. Deeper penetration does little for protection, but it does make the grain pop a little more.
This is the “flood method,” which is popular, but takes longer to cure, uses more oil, and can lead to leaching problems. I’ve had better results applying thin coats and buffing off all excess right away.
Instructions on my 100% tung oil say a different process. You applied, wiped off, waited an hour & re-applied. Mine say apply, wait an hour, wipe off, re-apply 12 hours later.
Is that music from the land of tung trees?
I have a slight hearing impairment and heard every word said. And that that was said was extremely helpful to a newbie like myself, thank you.
Unlike some of my fellow commenters.....I actually enjoyed the music you attached to your video. I found it both informative AND relaxing! As a “Type A” recently retired federal wildlife law enforcement officer, and prior to that a career Navy Officer, relaxing is now paramount -and not always easily achieved. As an obviously amateur woodworker, I especially appreciated your attached “pseudo / wannabe “pure” tung oil list! Incidentally, I saw on another video you produced, you mentioned photographing the Organ Mountains. Woo-hooo! I’m a NMSU alumni....spent a significant part of my youth in Alamogordo, ElPaso, and Las Cruces. My daughter earned her Masters and teaching certificate there....and now teaches high school biology in ‘Cruces! Back to the issue.....this video and its value in watching? Bravo-Zulu, job well done, amigo!
I appreciated the music-not too loud-just right...Regarding relaxation-If you are having troubles relaxing I have been practicing Qigong and breathing exercises for years-helps me...Deep breathing activates the parasympathetic nervous system which tells the body to go into relax/rest/safe mode...Try it!
@@wam44 That was very kind of you. In today’s world, a simple kindness is all the more appreciated. So thank you for taking the time to reply.....and I’ll give it a try!
@@captaincoyote1792 Hi again-I facilitate free online classes which I moved online after the pandemic started. Feel free to join and share with friends/family/coworkers-All are welcome!
Online Qigong & Meditation Practice is offered weekdays starting at 12:30 p.m. CST-link below
I also teach Yoga and Qigong on Saturdays starting at 11am CST
The link below works for all classes-If you have any questions, please get in touch-wam44@juno.com
us04web.zoom.us/j/9320331087?pwd=TStMZkM4M1RLQ3NEWDZQVk51THhqUT09
Meeting ID: 932 033 1087
Password: 097307
Very informative. I've never used tung oil before, so this is very helpful.
Phenomenal video, very well made and helpful. The music was a nice touch. Thanks for sharing the knowledge man, now I can finish my projects with confidence from experience which I did not earn
The maple in the miters! Love it.
Excellent presentation.
Thanks.
Enjoyable soundtrack and great info. 👍🏾👍🏾
(I love Purple Heart)
Very good instructions, although I suggest for very tight grained hardwoods that a 1:1:1 tung oil:turpentine:mineral spirits be used for the first coat, then proceed as you did here. Japan Drier added sparingly will speed tung oil curing for all coats. Add a small quantity of pine tar (sourced from equine suppliers) to enhance anti-microbial properties. Note that a distinct pine smell will be temporarily noticeable from the finished piece, and it can slightly darken the finish, so test before applying.
I use limonene (orange oil) which is technically "citrus rind oil." i cut pure tung oil 1:1 for general purpose first coat but not always. Closed pore wood such as White Oak needs a more absorbent first coat. A tung oil finish on the solid body guitars I build works very well tung oil takes dyes too.
I didn't even think about mixing it with dyes, that's awesome. The dyes I have used I either mix with water or denatured alcohol, are you just adding dyes with tung oil/mineral spirits? I'll have to play around with that. Thanks for letting me know.
Great video thanks.
I'm using some old pallet collars as raised beds but want to give them some kind of treatment before they go out into 'the wild'. I decided on using Tung Oil but didn't know the best way to apply the first coat after I've sanded the collars. Now I know and the orange oil type is really helpful. Don't want to use any nasty thinners in wood that I'm growing food in.
Cheers, from (a very soggy) Somerset, England.
Thanks!! I started here & learned quite a bit about tung oil. Almost bought the Minwax thinking I was getting tung oil but between what you mentioned, actually in you comments, and what I found elsewhere, that Minwax isn't real tung oil.
My take is that Minwax is to be avoided, on the whole. If anything is to be used, it would be their stains, but never their mixes of stain and poly....or these other so-called finishes.
Do I need to sand an unfinished piece of furniture?
I would recommend using a torch and slowly pulling the purple out. It is mind blowing
Thank you for the video tutorial on finishing wood with tung oil and for the write-up with links.
Newbie here! Thank you for this video. This might be a silly question but after reading the article I am still confused as to what is wrong with the oil/vanish mix. I purchased the Hope's not knowing it wasn't pure, and I am trying to understand and figure out if I need to return the product or not. It's for outdoor garden bed. TIA!
I want to apply it on chopsticks that I painted, I used acrylic paint on a wooden base. After the paintjob I varnished it, but I think I need an extra layer (foor safety/protection) of Tung Oil. Any advice?
An alternate method of air evacuation I found is to drop in glass marbles until you are close to the top before squeezing it and sealing.
At 3:50 he mentions marbles.
I'm using 'Bloxigen' Just spray on top of the oil, paint or whatever and put the top on. Bloxigen is heavier than air and keeps the oxygen off the surface of the finish in the can, bottle or whatever.
www.amazon.com/s?k=bloxygen+finish+preserver&crid=368T4S6Z353M2&sprefix=blox%2Caps%2C222&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_6_4
Good idea, he did mention marbles. However, it was hard to hear over the music.
Please could you help me? this oil can I use on floor wood? this floor is inside mi comercial job, which procedure must have I follow? Hi from Mexico City
Excellent, clear video -- thank you! I loved the background music so much, I Shazam'd it to find it. Then I saw you linked in the description. Thank you for supporting musicians and attributing!
Thanks for the dilution tip. The music was a bit loud but it was enjoyable. I have a Cherry wood project that is aged with baking soda and a "traditional cherry" stain wiped on and then off after a minute. Now comes the tung oil to match the original tv cabinet color. BTW - it has been years since I used turpentine but I have a can of it so here goes. Cheers.
why would you use turpentine and mineral spirits ? .... why not just one of these, you are only using as a thinner, assume it's going to evaporate off anyway.
Music????
Interesting.. this is also how you do an oil painting ,starting with thinned out coats/layers, making them thicker and thicker, with less and less solvent and more and more oil. Though it has nothing to do with wood grain or soaking in since it is painted on canvas or non-absorbent, but rough surfaces. It has more to do with preventing cracking and even flaking with age.
This was great info! I wonder if I should do the same with my bamboo ceiling slats?
This may be silly (also a newbie) but I’m reading about the combustibility factor of the rags used in applying the tung oil which is freaking me out. What do you do with your rags after use?
Great detailed detailing of the tung oil!
I've stained a butcher block table. Will let it dry completely before adding the Tung Oil. My question is if I dilute the oil with Mineral Spirits will this effect the stain at all? Thanks.
I have never used tung oil as a sealer. I may have to play around with it to see what happens some day. To answer your question, if the stain you used is oil based, then yes, if the stain is water based than not so much. Hope this helps, let me know it it works as a sealer, could save me some time experimenting. Most of the wood I use with tung oil is the wood they base the stain colors on; walnut, ebony, mahogany, cherry, etc. But the woods have very distinct grain patterns which make them look pretty amazing with a bit of oil to make them pop.
Can or should you spray on Tung Oil to walls? I just cover the walls in my Speakeasy inn and was thinking I need to show off all the different wood grains. Tung Oil or something else because its A. Such a big area and B. I'd like to spray?
Lol, I'm just giggling at the Sadie's salsa jar. But the finish looks fantastic!
Tung oil and Sadie's Salsa. Nothing but the best!
Thanks for your Vedio. But unfortunately when I watched your Vedio, I have already done the first coat with the pure tung oil. Is there anything I need to do to correct it? Thanks
Thanks so much for this. I'm refurbishing a 1940 snare drum, and tung oil seems to be the weapon of choice to really get in there and bring it back to life. You reaffirmed my choice, so thank you again. BTW the music accompaniment is awesome. Reminds me of Wednesday's Wolves.
Southwest heat and sun defeats all finishes - wood or auto. Boiled linseed goes very dark and degrades. Plastic finishes flake off due to wood movement. Tung oil is the only option, but it must be recoated fairly often. It doesn't darken but the sun does degrade it.
Big ups for the Sadie's Salsa! Albuquerque in the house!
With three coats of pure tung oil, the curing time after the third coat can be longer than a week. It more like three to four weeks, I've found, to finally achieve that hard finish that tells you it's fully cured.
I was told to wait for 30 days for any items that come in contact with food. So sounds like 4 weeks is the timing.
Can you apply a coat of catalytic varnish over this ting oil finish
Hi I'm just wondering in your experience with tung oil, will it be durable enough to be used for outdoor projects?
It has been used for thousands of years on boats.
Great video, I learned a lot.
I noticed the Watco Tung Oil Finish did not make the list of Do Not Use. Is watco tung oil Good stuff??
Would this work well on a wood stereo cabinet. Just wanted to clean it up a bit or wood just some Howards feed and wax work fine
I love the way you accented the purple heart miters with biscuits, it really pops that amateur quality look to your work and makes me want to trust your advice on how to use tung oil.
Can you put a three wheel
Wax buff on top once it dries?
Purple Heart is beautiful but I've never found a way to keep the purple color from fading to brown.
Yep, but I don't mind the end color either. I think the only wood I don't like the aged color of is walnut. So sad because walnut looks so amazing with just tung oil on it until it gets older and then turns to that tan look.
@@Melodysdadvideos try applying a spar urethane marine grade varnish. They almost always have UV inhibitors which will help retain the colorbetter than anything I have found. As long as you use the satin version and don’t go crazy with it, you can avoid the poured epoxy bar-top look.
Extremely thorough information. Thanks
I just liked and subscribed to your Channel this is important something lot of people don't know about I'm more familiar with polyurethane and lacquer so thanks for sharing bro
That would be very useful...I am finding my way...an old beginner...and hugely delighted...
I am sorry about taking so long to get around to it, but I finally made the video, I hope it helps: ruclips.net/video/L3dtnmTfVGo/видео.html
What is the background music??
Thanks for the 3step process coz I was applying 3 layers PURE and it fell too thick.
Nice job, thx. i dont know why people complained about the music, It wasnt over powering your narration and was quite enjoyable.
Very nice. Putting a finish on something can take longer than building it. A trick I picked up is to squirt some propane into a container before closing it is an inert gas that keeps things from skinning over going bad. it is no more dangerous than having a can of flammable stuff on the shelf. take the head off the torch first.
That's clever.
Knowing next to nothing about woodworking, I have a question about safety (with regards to disposal and storage). Basically I've heard that tung oil likes to oxidize and that tung oil soaked rags and whatnot tend to get hot as a result. So am I overreacting or is improper storage and disposal an actual fire hazard?
So with pure tung oil no, but...if you thin it with something like mineral spirits or turps that is flammable and combustible, then you need to either rinse off your rags before throwing them away or just let them dry out before throwing them away. The problem is that many products are labeled "Tung Oil" but contain all sorts of additives, thinners, and even different oils. Check out the description to my video: I included a list of such "Tung Oils". I don't recommend those. I prefer a pure 100% Tung Oil, that I can dilute as needed myself which I also provided a link to the one I use.
Hi Thinner would work?
I'm wanting to oil finish my wood flooring. I haven't seen any orange oil around here. but I don't really care about using it or not. but I need to walk on it in a day or two after finishing. I like the color of the wood. its never been finished . and is about 70 years old as far as I know. it had been covered for years. but I want to leave it bare and finish it. what would be a good oil for a fast drying quick job?
Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with finishing wood floors. I'm not going to pretend to be a resource for that. I can tell you that many oils that have additives/hardeners dry faster than pure varieties so I am sure there is something out there for what you are trying to do, I just don't know what it is of the top of my head.
I used a tung oil finish on a red oak desk box I made for a girlfriend. I love the richness that it gives the wood.
BTW, I'm originally from just down the road in El Paso.
I hope your lady friend gives you a special treat!
How much tung oil would I need for 150 ft of floor boards please.
Could you use this on untreated cork floors?
can i ask whose the artist of this song? thank you
Forty years ago I sprung $50.00 for a gallon can of Tung oil.
Never had an issue with air. Still dipping out of the same can.
Good tip on diluting though. Straight Tung oil on Teak takes
a month to dry.
I have only had one container of tung oil ever go bad on me. It formed a grit to it. So when applying it to a piece it feels like you are applying a sandy oil.
True tung oil will thicken up and turn jelly like if exposed to air like that. A great solution is to get a bag of those glass rocks that people put in vases and drop them in the tung oil container to keeep the level. At the top.
Fabulous video! Somewhat surprised though, knowing pure tung oil, that you didn’t wait days between the first applications, and that you didn’t lightly sand between coats. Is it because your first coats had been diluted with turpentine, and because you minimized the bubbles? Any help appreciated, because I’ve got a new and beautiful checkerboard end grain butcher block cutting board and am overdue to reoil all my great wooden utensils!
Do you know if there would be any issue if I stained softwood 2x construction lumber then added tung oil once the stain dried?
Love the music. And the instruction. Thank you
You can also put water in the bottle to remove the air at the top. It will sink. Enjoyed the second song. Speaks to the true nature of how women approach relationships.
I purchased an unfinished French door. It was ready for staining. I’ve stained it with minwax stain and is allowing it to dry. In a few days I want to add a top clear coat or a sealant so I will use tung oil. Do I just apply the tung oil to the stain coat or do I need to sand it first with a 220 grid sand paper sponge before applying the tung oil?
Most people say that you should let it dry for at least 24 hours between two coats. Have you ever had any trouble by only waiting one hour between each?
Yeah, the idea is that the first layer of oil is hardened enough in 24 hours to not mix anymore with the next coat
Also, would Tung oil resist paint splatters, can I use it on a wood painter's easel? Or would another oil be better?
What would you think of wiping it with 0000 steel wool instead of paper towels?
I have build several planters boxes. I want to plan herbs and vegetables and we are going to eat them. I have used mahogany wood and I have applied tung oil. They are for outside and they will be exposed to sun and rain. Do you think I should apply any finishing over the tung oil because of UV or discoloring? But, it has to be food safe too. I am trying to bring out the reach color of the wood. Thanks
Mahogany planter boxes, you and I would get along really well. I am a big sipo and sapele fan. If they were my planter boxes, I would buy some plastic planter bins to put inside the boxes. I haven't really tested tung oil's water resistance yet, so I would rather be safe than sorry.
I agree, or line them with 6 mil plastic sheeting at least. Waterlox marine would probably work better for outdoor planter application.
Frank, check out Realmilkpaint.com. They have a tung oil finish with zink to prevent outdoor mold growth.
I've been given 1" thick slabs of tulip wood with the bark on that I'll be using for shelving. The person that gave it to me suggested using valoil on it but it's no longer available. My experience with finishing wood is nothing more than moldings and doors. Any suggestions? I'd like to try to preserve the bark and bring out the grain. Water won't be an issue. The slabs are probably at least 3 years old and the bark is intact.
Jackie Crowe- Talma whatever you end up doing I hope there is a video at least showing the final product!
Thanks for the video, very informative. The music is fine.
Step 2 above: What grit are your abrasive pads? Thanks,
Do you have a build video of your process for making the frames?
What are you using to wipe after appliation - it looks like paper towels but I would think that would leave lint
Does the turpentine alter the color? I need a natural oak finish to stay true
Is that wood stained? I'm wondering about using tung oil to finish after using a wood stain. Seems that a water-based wood stain would be okay in this regard. Any insight on this? Also, I recently did apply non-diluted tung oil to a previously unfinished guitar neck. Seems like it came out really beautiful but it's only been about 24 hours. It's hard maple. As you recommend diluting it first I'm wondering, is there some problem that I many have by not thinning first, and also if I go back now and reapply with thinned tung oil will that help? Thanks a bunch.
Did you ever figure out your stain question?
Are these like kitchen paper towels or like a dense shop paper towel? Just wondering about pieces of it getting stuck in the finish
Ive never worked with wood but wanting to do some diy stuff using the pre sliced wood ornaments. They all suggest using tung oil to care for the wood pieces. For this kind of situation do I dilute the oil? I also see spray tung oil available. Is it best to brush on with paint brush, rub on with a cloth, or spray on? Diluted or straight? The wood pieces vary in size from 2.0 in.-3 1/2in.
I purchased a table with a shine spot on it like you showed in the video, they must have not wiped it down when it was drying , So now that it is dry is there anything I can do to make it go away ?
I am sorry for taking so long to respond. Was the table finished with pure tung oil?If it was and is still wet you could wipe it down with a paper towel. But since it is dry, you might be better to just leave it alone. Do you have a link to a photo of it online?
This is certainly one way of treating wood with tung oil and it is also a quick way. However in terms of providing the best looking and most durable finish, it is not the best way. As tung oil is a drying oil, each successive coat has to cure properly and that takes several days rather than around an hour, for each coat to dry. Before applying the second and all subsequent coats of oil, the previous coat should be lightly sanded with around 400 grit, but only after it has properly cured. If you want to read an authoritative article that compares the superior properties of tung oil with other oils and how to use it correctly to finish and protect wood, see: www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths
Whether for interior or exterior wood, there is no finer method for finishing and protecting wood than using tung oil. If maintained, it is more resistant to mould, rot and moisture ingress than any other finish. Paint, varnish, wood stain etc will all eventually flake or let moisture in. Once that has happened, the only option is to completely strip back to bare wood and re-treat. One final thought to anyone wanting to make your interior or exterior wood grain really pop with colour and contrast, try the ancient Japanese wood-charring method of Shou Sugi Ban, prior to treatment with tung oil. The extent of charring can be to your taste and is worth experimenting with. However, for exterior wood, once you have tried this, you will never want to go back to using wood stain.
Stephen Wright have you ever used pure ting oil before?
Several times. :)
Stephen Wright oh good, cause it sounded like you never have and were just quoting that lady's article☺. I've been using it for years. Refer to your article you linked: "The oils dont really "dry" or evaporate; they "harden" or cure." You don't layer it like a urethane the way you are describing. Pure Tung oil doesn't work like that. As far as sanding between coats, I have noticed no difference so I don't bother. But to each his own. I use pure tung oil weekly, and made this video for people who are frustrated using it. That's a good article you cited though, I remember reading it years ago.
Stephen Wright
I just watch some examples of that method of wood burning. I'm so glad you said that because I was wondering if it could be used in this case. Definitely going to try it
I have to say YUP even with Boiled Lin Seed oil and Tru-oil several days dry between coats sand paper and 0000 steel-wool between coats there is one exception 1st coat needs several HOURS being cut dries quicker after that 2nd coat needs few days to dry. pending application 0000 Steel-Wool or sandpaper work just fine. But after 2nd coat needs a few days for drying
Can this be applied to plywood? And how much maintinence is required? Meaning do i have to apply this every month since it's not a poly?
Question. I am thinking of applying pure Tung Oil on a unfinished guitar.
I have done it in the past with success; however, it was many years ago and my memory is foggy. Additionally, this time I plan to add dye.
I am mixing Keda liquid aniline dye to acetone and doing a 50/50 mix with Tung Oil. Seemed OK on a test piece. Ideally, I will do 1 coat of this. Then the following coat will be a heavy coat of Tung Oil only (no dye or acetone) as recommended by Real Milk Paint (technically for the first coat). Let soak, wipe off any puddling for even polymerization, and thin coats from there.
Sorry for long backstory. My question is........... Should I finish both sides of the guitar? The first time, years ago, I did the back first, then front & sides. I figured gravity would help w/ the penetration. But since I will be dying the wood this time, I was curious if I should dye the entire body, front & back, then hang to dry.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Because pine is less dense, is diluting it as necessary? Or is Tung oil on pine wood essentially polishing a turd? (Looking to protect a dining table, but trying to avoid poly).
Pine has its own terps so the solvent will probably help the two oils co-mingle in that first layer. Also, it can dry out as much as any other. I'm not an expert, but I'd do it.
hmm! If I were you ; Only%20 tung oil mix much better first coat?
Very informative and useful. Thank you.
Liked the DIY. Have a question, I did 3 coats on Bocote wood but I always end up with a white haze after a week? I am doing all 3 coats thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits and pure 100% tung oil.
Thanks for any help.
Kyle McFerran - did you ever find a solution to this white haze? I am getting a similar result with Tung oil
I diluted with lemon oil for a guitar neck. bubinga w/ ebony fingerboard. sucked up a lot of oil.
Question. Im.new at all of this. If I'm making an outdoor table. To I stain first then use the tung oil? If so, after the tung oil am I able to apply polyurethane as well?
Do you want it waterproof? Don't poly then. You can stain, wait for recommend dry time or add stain to pure tung oil. Tung oil is easy to repair or maintenance by adding more. Poly is not. Tung oil is beautiful if done correctly. Takes time and patience.
@@austinicholas could I use rustoleum marine spar varnish to waterproof it
Can anyone recommend a good brand they use for Pure Orange Oil?
Here it is, 100% orange oil. Amazing solvent. shop.skinboats.com/Cirtrus-Solvent-100-pure-organic-D-L100.htm
Has anyone got any tips on how to darken tung oil so that when I apply it to my wood it darkens it?
A little oil-based wood stain in the oil will do the trick. I've also just stained the wood first and then applied tung on top. If you want a more complex effect and your wood has tanin, you can treat it with iron wash, let it dry, and apply undoctored tung. So far that's produced good results on hemlock, Doug, and oak.
There is a company (real milk paint dot com) that sells “dark Tung oil” which is Tung oil with hydrocarbon added for this purpose.
If I could turn back time I’d use rung oil instead of poly on a few tables. But I did do my countertops.
What's the difference between, tung oil, boiled linseed oil (aka TruOil) and danish oil? Which is the most color neutral?
Jeff Gillis, pure tung oil is an all natural product used for centuries in China, very light golden finish coloration, will require a few to several coats and will stain, seal and finish the wood all in one. Just be sure it is 100% pure or you might as well use BLO. BLO (boiled linseed oil) is a chemical compound of linseed oil and other chemicals combined and finishes darker than tung but also much faster. Don't confuse this with pure linseed oil, which while linen was a thriving product was readily available and used for the same purpose but has a significantly longer drying/curing time. Danish oil, again, chemical compound of oil and such, but comes in a few different shades of coloration. Also has a fairly short drying/curing time.
Of the 3 choices, tung will take more coats and more time but, and this is significant to me, tung is the only one that has no or very low VOC, unless you add it, and is ok to use on food grade surfaces. It will seal wood well enough that the Chinese had used it to build ships for centuries. It can be reapplied if the finish fades, as long as no other sealant has been applied. It will not get a high gloss unless you polish with a gloss finish, but instead will give a hand rubbed satin like finish naturally. It is a natural resin forming oil that hardens and seals through the process of oxidization. Full cure can take up to 30 days and item should be kept out of direct sunlight until it is cured.
There is a site called Real Milk Paint that has some serious amounts of DIY content concerning tung oil use, if ya need more info, that's a good spot to start.
@@kennythiessen5044 thx kenny. Another question, as ive heard that walnut will fade over time and its suggested that a uv poly wilk protect it from this fade with exposure to ambient daylight over time. Anythoughts on uv protection for walnut?
Great video! I have a solid mahogany front door. It opens onto my front porch, so is protected from wet weather and UV damage. It has a tung finish. The door is now 15 years old. When I got it, the guy that hung the door said to put tung oil on it every year. I had someone do that for about 4 years, then he retired so I stopped. We live near a railroad line and there occurs an accumulation of dirty grit plus pollen on the door every year. Lately I have just been wiping it off with a wet rag occasionally. My question for you is should there be a deeper cleaning done with mineral spirits and then tung oil re-applied, maybe thinning the first coat? I know nothing about maintaining wood, but I want to do the correct thing to keep the door in good shape. TIA.
Wow, Myrna. That door should last almost forever.
Mineral spirits will not remove any of the cured tung oil. It I I permanent. If there is sun damage, a light sanding and light reapplication of oil would be ok. Otherwise, just keep it clean.
Myrna,
Try a high quality lemon oil polish. It cleans, nourishes and protects. Maybe once a month. Experiment with how your door “reacts” after your initial application. My family has used lemon oil on hand finished rifle stocks ( coated in pure tung oil) for years with great success. It sounds like a beautiful door!
Be well,
Shawn
Nice job. Did you build the frames? And is there a video. Thanks
I did build the frames. I am a photographer and make custom frames for clients. I haven't made a how to make a frame video yet. There are quite a few good videos on how to make frames already on RUclips, I'm not sure I will make one.
Beautiful work!
What are you using as applicators? Looks like gauze pads ..... I thought the music was O.K. ...... JRW
Definitely want to start by thinning it. Turpentine will slow down the drying process, mineral spirits used- it will dry faster.
Do you ever use tung oil as a finish coat over a painted piece, like a milk painted or opaque stained piece? Thanks.
When using oil, your surface needs be like a sponge to soak it in and hold onto it. Painted products are already sealed off so another finish would be better for your application.