Mister, your beautiful words have touched my heart. Thank you for that. (except for the masks during the pandemic thing. I have no idea which side of that debate you were on. Though, I also don't care. You are definitely - not boring 🙂). Thanks for the woodworking too 😉 P.S. I hope things improve for me too, and that things do indeed get better. Damn that metaphorical scratch 🤨
@@Melodysdadvideos Honestly? That is exactly what I need right now. A thousand positive thoughts aimed towards me to help my days get better. I meant it fully though. Those words were art ♥
I have been using pure tung and linseed oil for over 50 years. The old cans of linseed used to have instructions for applying the finish. First you apply the un-thinned oil and keep applying as the oil soaks into the wood, keeping the surface wet for about 15 minutes. Then wipe the surface dry and let it sit for about an hour. Finally, repeat the above process, but also sand the wood with fine sandpaper while the oil is wet. Let it dry 24 hours before use. Apply wax now and then for added protection and shine. This finish, in my opinion, is best used for furniture that does not receive much wear and tear. Like a dresser in a bedroom. Alcoholic beverages can leave circle stains. Desktops will not do well unless sanded down and refinished yearly. Skin oil and dirt will mix with the tung and linseed oil finish and leave dark stains. These oils are excellent for cutting boards because they are non-toxic food safe. Re-apply when the surface looks dull. Some people like the look of a table-top that shows stains, marks, and patina from the years of use by a family. Only an oil finish lends itself to this natural beauty. DO NOT LEAVE OILY RAGS IN A PILE BECAUSE THEY CAN AND WILL SELF-COMBUST AND START FIRES.
A favorite finish of mine that came from Sam Maloof, is One part boiled linseed oil one part paint thinner and then one part either spar varnish or urethane depending on how durable you want things. Typically I build up about three coats or so and then finish off with some beeswax. It's a very beautiful, inviting finish and it tends to yellow over time and develops a beautiful patina. Used it on several of my own rocking chairs, as well as some other projects. I do agree that boiled linseed oil tends to yellow over time, but that's also part of the attraction for me. For a very quick finish I like to use watco oil, followed by a coat of Matt Polycrylic finish. The Matt Vanish hides a world of sins, and provides for a greater degree of protection than just oil. And I totally agree you need to ask yourself what it is you're finishing and what kind of use will it receive. I still really love an oil finish as there's a definite "look" from something that penetrates into the wood as opposed to sits on top of it. That's why I like the combination of Watco and the polycrylic . Just my own $0.02. from my 53 years as a professional woodworker.
This is really neat to see, thank you for sharing! I followed the instructions from your video +/-5 years ago on a dresser that i was refinishing. The dresser later became the kid's main dresser and a large fish tank placed on top. There are layers of hard water over the finish now, but that pine has lasted years of abuse and I believe it would have at least warped (if not rotted) if it weren't for the process you taught of applying the tung oil. I also appreciate the application of the principle demonstrated 😁 wood finishing is not a one-size-fits-all scenario. Neither are people. That's thought provoking. Well said.
That's awesome! I am glad you got to try it out and it worked for you. That really was the goal of that video. There are so many comments on the other video asking for advice on if Tung Oil is what "I should use for this?" type questions. The simple answer is: "I don't know. What do you think?" It seems we live in a world where few seam to realize that nobody knows everything about anything.
The one I have, and likely will always continue, to want to see is amber melted into an oil. I've always wondered how it would look, if it would fill grain, etc. Such a cool concept
I have done similar experiments with boiled linseed oil and pure tung oil (although only over a couple months, not five years!) and I also have not found them that different. I have not yet noticed any differences in the way that they color the wood. The most obvious tell, to me, is that tung oil seems to leave a slightly more shiny finish that sits on top of the wood, whereas linseed oil completely soaks in and seems to be more matte (though they are both pretty matte). I prefer the smell of linseed oil, while I like the food-safe qualities of tung oil, so I use them both in different projects even though they are extremely similar - equally gorgeous!
I use Tung Oil on lots of wood projects like a Rosewood bowl and any fine hardwood projects. But I’m not sure it is food safe. The best finish I’ve found for cutting boards is called Walrus Oil. Funny name but very practical. Why? Because it is a combination of Beeswax and an oil - mineral oil I think. Both are food safe and either one can be used on cutting boards. BUT by combining the ingredients the result is the best of both worlds - and more durable than either! Mineral Oil alone looks great but dries out and wax alone doesn’t give as much depth and rich appearance. So…Walrus Oil!
My understanding is that 100% Tung oil should be food safe. I would get one that says that on the bottle though. I've used Barleans Flax oil (raw culinary linseed oil) and I assume it is food safe since you can eat the oil itself and it works really well but be warned that it takes a LONG time to dry if you put it a lot of coats.
@@Melodysdadvideos Just a guess, the restaurant owner would find it disruptive to business to have to redo these barrels, so longevity would be prime. The main wear and tear will be people scuffing boot and shoe soles against the barrel sides. Nuances of colour and reflectivity won't matter since nobody will see them up close unless they are on their hands and knees. (This would be matter a lot more if they were going in a bar.) Maybe something you would use on a wood floor to reduce scuffs, you know, like a floor in a bar? And... can we go to a bar to discuss this? *hic*
Under what circumstances would you suggest one select Linseed over Tung oil, for their project? Or… are you concluding that Tung Oil (100%) superior to Linseed when an oil finish is desired?
@@Melodysdadvideos Tung oil prevents mold/mildew unlike BLO, it provides better moisture resistance, doesnt amber as much and when polymerized it's more durable. BLO is cheaper and dries fast bc of the metal driers. Pur tung oil has to be applied thin or it wont dry properly. When applied correctly it will dry with 24-48 hrs. Polymerized tung oil (sutherland welles, or lee valley brand) dries just ads fast as BLO and is even more durable than pure tung oil. Very small amounts of oil are needed to get a proper finish, so even at the higher expense, tung oil's performance is just unmatched.
For my specific use (clipboard), that seems to be the case. I do use these often, I have even stepped on one which you can kind of see a slight crack in the video, but it still has held up just fine.
Hi, I really like your video! I have a question for you though… My grandfather made me a wrist wrest for my keyboard out of pine wood, and I am now wondering what oil you would recommend I coat it with? I’d like to make sure it lives a long life. It will be in contact with my skin/hands often. I have never done any woodwork but I would love to get involved one day when I have room for my own work station. Thank you, and subscribed!
The second one. I start out by pouring pure tung oil in a cup and an equal amount of mineral spirits by eye. I put on the first coat, and then for the second coat, I add more pure tung oil to the mix, by eye again, to make it about two parts oil to 1 part mineral spirits. The third coat and any subsequent coats I don't bother diluting it. Someone just spit out their drink reading this, and will tell you their superior way of doing it, just know, they are right. I am just sharing a method I have used to obtain a result I am happy with. I would recommend watching my other video which shows how I apply it in full.
I am building a desktop out of 1.5 inch pine. Would pure tung oil as a finish be durable enough? Other recommendations? My original plan was two coats of Minwax tung oil, and third coat of a mix of Minwax tung oil with a little spar urethane mixed in.
It would depend on your preference of either a flat or glossy look. The desk I am at right now, I finished with Minwax Tung Oil if not a very similar product. It isn't flashy looking, but not quite as flat as a pure tung oil either. If you are dealing with a live edge, I would go for epoxy, and I would fill in all cracks with dyed epoxy. Have seen furniture finished like that? It looks pretty sweet (and is more durable).
Why didn’t you apply three coats of boiled linseed oil also. It would have been more of a fair comparison. As someone who has used boiled linseed oil numerous times I have never just used one coat.
I wanted them to look the same. If I had applied that much boiled linseed oil then it would have been more amber than I wanted. I think if I were to test them on an outdoor project, I definitely would have done the same amount of coats.
Na střenky nožů jsem Lněný olej přestal používat, jelikož jej kožené pouzdro nože ze střenek jakoby vysálo, Tungový olej drží mnohem lépe a tohle nedělá.
I am using google translate here, so I apologize if it doesn't make sense. Basically, @Hamp-knives is saying they used to use boiled linseed oil on knife handles but found that the sheath would soak it up. So, they switched to tung oil. I have thought that tung oil does cure harder than BLO, but have not tested my theory.
I wanted to watch the whole thing but the music was so annoying. so I just skipped and you did not get well-deserved view time etc. please consider lowering or removing the music. we are here for the info and the great test, not for entertainment. thank you for your effort!
Polyurethane like Arm R Seal will last a while but a ring will get so beat up that if you wan the finish to remain looking good, polymerized tung oil is a good option
If it were me...and I am answering this with no skin in your project, I would probably use an epoxy, thinned. Hopefully, I took too long to answer and you already finished it. What did you go with and how did it turn out?
Tung oil is from China, and the Chinese don't use pure tung oil on the wood finish. Normally you have to heat treat the tung oil first before applying it to wood so that it can dry out fast and form a hard coat.....
I remember reading that products labelled as "pure tung oil" have undergone that heat treatment already and that nobody sells pure untreated tung oil, although I have no idea how I'd verify that claim.
Im wondering what both linseed and tung oil do when exposed to sunshine and rain as my experience is that linseed goes black quit quickly. Iam testing tung oil outside/sunshine and rainas we speak
Mister, your beautiful words have touched my heart. Thank you for that.
(except for the masks during the pandemic thing. I have no idea which side of that debate you were on. Though, I also don't care. You are definitely - not boring 🙂).
Thanks for the woodworking too 😉
P.S. I hope things improve for me too, and that things do indeed get better. Damn that metaphorical scratch 🤨
If I could give you a thousand likes I would.
@@Melodysdadvideos Honestly? That is exactly what I need right now. A thousand positive thoughts aimed towards me to help my days get better.
I meant it fully though. Those words were art ♥
"The world is as beautiful as you let it be." I appreciated the uplifting philosophical commentary!
I am glad you can appreciate it! For me, I have found it to be accurate to a T. Thank you for letting me use your sweet tunes!
I loved this: "Wood finishes are like people. We should want people to succeed, not fail."
I have been using pure tung and linseed oil for over 50 years. The old cans of linseed used to have instructions for applying the finish. First you apply the un-thinned oil and keep applying as the oil soaks into the wood, keeping the surface wet for about 15 minutes. Then wipe the surface dry and let it sit for about an hour. Finally, repeat the above process, but also sand the wood with fine sandpaper while the oil is wet.
Let it dry 24 hours before use.
Apply wax now and then for added protection and shine.
This finish, in my opinion, is best used for furniture that does not receive much wear and tear. Like a dresser in a bedroom. Alcoholic beverages can leave circle stains. Desktops will not do well unless sanded down and refinished yearly. Skin oil and dirt will mix with the tung and linseed oil finish and leave dark stains.
These oils are excellent for cutting boards because they are non-toxic food safe. Re-apply when the surface looks dull.
Some people like the look of a table-top that shows stains, marks, and patina from the years of use by a family. Only an oil finish lends itself to this natural beauty.
DO NOT LEAVE OILY RAGS IN A PILE BECAUSE THEY CAN AND WILL SELF-COMBUST AND START FIRES.
Came for the finishes, stayed for the poetry and life advice.
I really liked the way you ended things. Thank you for sharing!
A favorite finish of mine that came from Sam Maloof, is One part boiled linseed oil one part paint thinner and then one part either spar varnish or urethane depending on how durable you want things. Typically I build up about three coats or so and then finish off with some beeswax. It's a very beautiful, inviting finish and it tends to yellow over time and develops a beautiful patina. Used it on several of my own rocking chairs, as well as some other projects. I do agree that boiled linseed oil tends to yellow over time, but that's also part of the attraction for me. For a very quick finish I like to use watco oil, followed by a coat of Matt Polycrylic finish. The Matt Vanish hides a world of sins, and provides for a greater degree of protection than just oil. And I totally agree you need to ask yourself what it is you're finishing and what kind of use will it receive. I still really love an oil finish as there's a definite "look" from something that penetrates into the wood as opposed to sits on top of it. That's why I like the combination of Watco and the polycrylic . Just my own $0.02. from my 53 years as a professional woodworker.
This is really neat to see, thank you for sharing! I followed the instructions from your video +/-5 years ago on a dresser that i was refinishing. The dresser later became the kid's main dresser and a large fish tank placed on top. There are layers of hard water over the finish now, but that pine has lasted years of abuse and I believe it would have at least warped (if not rotted) if it weren't for the process you taught of applying the tung oil.
I also appreciate the application of the principle demonstrated 😁 wood finishing is not a one-size-fits-all scenario. Neither are people. That's thought provoking. Well said.
That's awesome! I am glad you got to try it out and it worked for you. That really was the goal of that video. There are so many comments on the other video asking for advice on if Tung Oil is what "I should use for this?" type questions. The simple answer is: "I don't know. What do you think?" It seems we live in a world where few seam to realize that nobody knows everything about anything.
That curly maple on the tung oil board looks amazing.
I know, right? I love it. I wouldn't recommend using curly maple for splines though. Or at least thin splines.
The one I have, and likely will always continue, to want to see is amber melted into an oil. I've always wondered how it would look, if it would fill grain, etc. Such a cool concept
The linseed oil isnt boiled. Its chemically treated to try to imitate what boiling would do.
Yep, product labels are deceiving. Like “natural flavors” in food, is just chemicals that taste good.
I have done similar experiments with boiled linseed oil and pure tung oil (although only over a couple months, not five years!) and I also have not found them that different. I have not yet noticed any differences in the way that they color the wood. The most obvious tell, to me, is that tung oil seems to leave a slightly more shiny finish that sits on top of the wood, whereas linseed oil completely soaks in and seems to be more matte (though they are both pretty matte). I prefer the smell of linseed oil, while I like the food-safe qualities of tung oil, so I use them both in different projects even though they are extremely similar - equally gorgeous!
I love the life lessons on this video.
I was under the impression that linseed oil would yellow over time, i cant see that here
I use Tung Oil on lots of wood projects like a Rosewood bowl and any fine hardwood projects.
But I’m not sure it is food safe.
The best finish I’ve found for cutting boards is called Walrus Oil.
Funny name but very practical.
Why? Because it is a combination of Beeswax and an oil - mineral oil I think.
Both are food safe and either one can be used on cutting boards.
BUT by combining the ingredients the result is the best of both worlds - and more durable than either!
Mineral Oil alone looks great but dries out and wax alone doesn’t give as much depth and rich appearance. So…Walrus Oil!
Could it be a good finish for butcher block countertop?
@@catherinesnow8186Yes
My understanding is that 100% Tung oil should be food safe. I would get one that says that on the bottle though. I've used Barleans Flax oil (raw culinary linseed oil) and I assume it is food safe since you can eat the oil itself and it works really well but be warned that it takes a LONG time to dry if you put it a lot of coats.
@@jeffa847
Yes Tung Oil dries very slowly but it helps to dilute the first coat or two with 50% paint thinner.
@@catherinesnow8186 Yes.
I like the one with the oil on it best.
I prefer the clipboard personally
@@Melodysdadvideos Ye.
Hi! Please let me know:What kind of product would you put on barrels ?
Barrels are going to be inside and use like restaurant tables?
Depends on the look you are going for and the kind of abuse you want them to withstand.
@@Melodysdadvideos Just a guess, the restaurant owner would find it disruptive to business to have to redo these barrels, so longevity would be prime. The main wear and tear will be people scuffing boot and shoe soles against the barrel sides. Nuances of colour and reflectivity won't matter since nobody will see them up close unless they are on their hands and knees. (This would be matter a lot more if they were going in a bar.) Maybe something you would use on a wood floor to reduce scuffs, you know, like a floor in a bar? And... can we go to a bar to discuss this? *hic*
Under what circumstances would you suggest one select Linseed over Tung oil, for their project? Or… are you concluding that Tung Oil (100%) superior to Linseed when an oil finish is desired?
I think you might just be as qualified as anyone else to answer your question. I believe in you. :)
Tung oil is superior in every way. To the point where I wont use BLO anymore. I love tung oil
What happened to you? Share the story.
Please elaborate.
@@Melodysdadvideos Tung oil prevents mold/mildew unlike BLO, it provides better moisture resistance, doesnt amber as much and when polymerized it's more durable. BLO is cheaper and dries fast bc of the metal driers. Pur tung oil has to be applied thin or it wont dry properly. When applied correctly it will dry with 24-48 hrs. Polymerized tung oil (sutherland welles, or lee valley brand) dries just ads fast as BLO and is even more durable than pure tung oil. Very small amounts of oil are needed to get a proper finish, so even at the higher expense, tung oil's performance is just unmatched.
So basically both are on par with one another even after 5 years ?
Difference is tung oil is 4 times more cost to buy.
For my specific use (clipboard), that seems to be the case. I do use these often, I have even stepped on one which you can kind of see a slight crack in the video, but it still has held up just fine.
funny question, is it okay to use either of them for guitar finish?
The information on your video was great, but the background music was really loud and distracting...
Blahhhh!
Hi, I really like your video! I have a question for you though…
My grandfather made me a wrist wrest for my keyboard out of pine wood, and I am now wondering what oil you would recommend I coat it with? I’d like to make sure it lives a long life. It will be in contact with my skin/hands often.
I have never done any woodwork but I would love to get involved one day when I have room for my own work station.
Thank you, and subscribed!
Hemp oil. Wipe off excess the following day. Apply with the season's.. respecting the woods natural clock and your Grandfather
On the second coat of tung oil, you said diluted 1:2, is that 1 oil + 2 spirit, or 1 spirit + 2 oil? Thanks.
The second one. I start out by pouring pure tung oil in a cup and an equal amount of mineral spirits by eye. I put on the first coat, and then for the second coat, I add more pure tung oil to the mix, by eye again, to make it about two parts oil to 1 part mineral spirits. The third coat and any subsequent coats I don't bother diluting it. Someone just spit out their drink reading this, and will tell you their superior way of doing it, just know, they are right. I am just sharing a method I have used to obtain a result I am happy with. I would recommend watching my other video which shows how I apply it in full.
@@Melodysdadvideos Thank you for your reply!
May I ask why diluting with mineral spirits?
@@shawncook5174 It thins it out to make wiping on easier and smoother. You can then build up multiple thin layers.
@@shawncook5174 I have been told to do this on the first coats because it thins it out and lets the oil penetrate deeper.
I am building a desktop out of 1.5 inch pine. Would pure tung oil as a finish be durable enough? Other recommendations? My original plan was two coats of Minwax tung oil, and third coat of a mix of Minwax tung oil with a little spar urethane mixed in.
It would depend on your preference of either a flat or glossy look. The desk I am at right now, I finished with Minwax Tung Oil if not a very similar product. It isn't flashy looking, but not quite as flat as a pure tung oil either. If you are dealing with a live edge, I would go for epoxy, and I would fill in all cracks with dyed epoxy. Have seen furniture finished like that? It looks pretty sweet (and is more durable).
Why didn’t you apply three coats of boiled linseed oil also. It would have been more of a fair comparison.
As someone who has used boiled linseed oil numerous times I have never just used one coat.
I wanted them to look the same. If I had applied that much boiled linseed oil then it would have been more amber than I wanted. I think if I were to test them on an outdoor project, I definitely would have done the same amount of coats.
Hey, I’m making wooden jewellery and I want to use natural finishes. What would you recommend I use to finish my jewellry to ensure it’s longevity?
100% clean hemp oil. Let it soak in overnight then wipe off gently
I am going to start using 100% tung oil on my new bee hives..its not toxic to my bees and looks nice on the box ..not to mention cheaper than paint
Your'e a good man. Thank you.
Na střenky nožů jsem Lněný olej přestal používat, jelikož jej kožené pouzdro nože ze střenek jakoby vysálo, Tungový olej drží mnohem lépe a tohle nedělá.
Zdá se, že tungový olej dělá dřevo pevnější, ale tuto teorii jsem sám nezkoušel. Děkujeme za sdílení.
I am using google translate here, so I apologize if it doesn't make sense. Basically, @Hamp-knives is saying they used to use boiled linseed oil on knife handles but found that the sheath would soak it up. So, they switched to tung oil. I have thought that tung oil does cure harder than BLO, but have not tested my theory.
Didn’t use it correctly and expected “earth shattering” results 🤯.
Sorry to hear that, better luck with your next project.
I wanted to watch the whole thing but the music was so annoying. so I just skipped and you did not get well-deserved view time etc. please consider lowering or removing the music. we are here for the info and the great test, not for entertainment. thank you for your effort!
Thaks
What is the best finish for wood ring?
Polyurethane like Arm R Seal will last a while but a ring will get so beat up that if you wan the finish to remain looking good, polymerized tung oil is a good option
Thank you for your answer@@greg2337
If it were me...and I am answering this with no skin in your project, I would probably use an epoxy, thinned. Hopefully, I took too long to answer and you already finished it. What did you go with and how did it turn out?
The linseed is a touch darker methinks.
I think you are right. It may not be obvious in this video as I didn't do many coats of it.
Great video... But you didn't have any kind of conclusion....
Man that background music is soooo loud, can hardly hear you talk.
Get the music off. So amateur.
THE MUSIC IS TOO LOUD AND ANNOYING...VIDEO COULD HAVE DONE WITHOUT IT!!!
Lower the sound of that ugly background music!
Tung oil is from China, and the Chinese don't use pure tung oil on the wood finish. Normally you have to heat treat the tung oil first before applying it to wood so that it can dry out fast and form a hard coat.....
I remember reading that products labelled as "pure tung oil" have undergone that heat treatment already and that nobody sells pure untreated tung oil, although I have no idea how I'd verify that claim.
@@winrawrisyou you can buy unadulterated tung oil from lots of places. The polymerization process isn't done to it.
Im wondering what both linseed and tung oil do when exposed to sunshine and rain as my experience is that linseed goes black quit quickly. Iam testing tung oil outside/sunshine and rainas we speak