Like to add something here as a tip. If you are using boiled linseed oil as you did here, make sure the rags and towels you used are NOT thrown in the trash until 100% completely dry. I mean like, lay them out on ground, single layered, after immediate use. They do have the power to generate enough heat due to the metal salts added to combust on their own. Dangerous stuff if not taken care of properly.
My son just lost his garage, two cars, an apartment above the garage and of course everything inside the building due to spilled linseed oil that was cleaned up with rags that were put in the trash container. 2 1/2 hours later They combusted and caught on fire 🔥 Thank you for your caution statement, because many of these videos that talk about linseed oil to not include that danger of what to do with the rugs when finished
Linseed oil forms into a crystal by combining with oxygen. It forms a transparent lattice structure at the molecular level and has the refractive qualities similar to amber of fir pitch. This crystallization takes time. Within a month it will be well on its way. So it is important to let the oil crystallize with oxygen so that a maximum of light(photons) penetrate the wood.(luster). Applying wax so soon will seal the oil from O2 and stop this crystallization which causes a loss in the crystallization potential. Applying wax after a few weeks would allow the oil time to crystallize and be more impervious toliquids,and look better.
I am looking to eradicate strong mould/mildew smell from an old wooden chest of drawers. I was going to use boiled linseed first. I'll use your method i think and leave for some months before adding a seal
Add some damar varnish or any turpentine dissolve varnish to the oil. This will set and hold the oil in place to do its crystallisation without coming off with touch.
A. Cut the Linseed Oil with denatured alcohol 70/30 (30% alcohol) this will help the wood absorb the oil. B. Repeat the process of oiling the wood over a 2 or 3 day period layering on 2-3 total coats or until the wood appears no longer wanting to absorb more oil. C. Allow to dry thoroughly for several days or as much as a week before applying any top coatings. It is best to not apply any coatings over wood that is protected with linseed oil until the oil has completely penetrated the wood and the wood has dried. 2-3 weeks depending on the type of wood, it's age, and thickness. It's best to use natural waxes over wood protected with linseed oil. Some synthetics will not bond properly with the linseed oil or will react negatively with it and can cause 'unusual' color shifts. Learned that one the hard way. Had some old cedar heartwood turn yellowish/pink on a piece I was restoring.
In my experice, applying oil-based (do not use water-based) varnish on top of boiled liseed oil will provide a complete, long lasting barrier for daily-used kitchen tables, etc. Wax can then be used as the last polishing coating, and repolished every year, etc.
Can that be done over 1904 floorboards that have been well treated with boiled linseed oil? I was thinking of in a few years if the floor collects much dirt it may need a poly varnish but I only use poly on dining table tops and hardwearing surface for my toddler not to ruin my last experience of varnishing went badly it was like treacle and was barely speadable.
I just purchased an old fashioned bread box from an estate sale for 50 cents! After sanding off the light varnish it had and years of crud, I've decided this will be my experimental Linseed oil project. Not a table top so it won't be exposed to harsh influences. I'm hoping for the best to protect my homemade bread. Thanks for your instruction.
I used linseed oil with beeswax on the wood around my hot tub outdoors. 5 yrs later I’m doing it again but probably could go another 5 it’s so effective.
Hello my name is LeRoy. I am starting my wood working journey and your video was helpful. I want to make an all natural nontoxic durable finish. I was thinking boiled linseed oil not store bought and bee's wax.
Hi. I’ve got an oak gate that’s maybe 40-50 years old. It’s certainly weathered. I would like to protect it for a few more years; ideally I’d like to maintain the natural color if at all possible. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Linseed oil might be a good budget option. It certainly won’t add years of protection or resistance against the weather but oil and water typically don’t mix. For the price point and ease of application it’s worth a shot. It shouldn’t change the appearance very much but it does have a yellowish tint that would just make it look warm and “wet”. The only downside is how fast does that dry out?
That would depend on the budget and time you’re looking to invest. Oil finishes are budget friendly and are easy to apply but can dry out over time. A poly urethane will last longer but cost more and takes more time to apply.
If you want all-natural, is this good? I recently did a super fast sanding of my desk and applied bees wax to it and the rings are completely gone and it looks way better. But I guess the wax won't lsat long. I want to try linseed oil (raw) on it and then bees wax. I wonder how often you need to maintain wood this way supposing you eat off of it. (I don't eat off my desk, but wondering about my dinign room table.)
For one thing, it depends on what your definition of 'all natural' is. This finish does help show off the natural traits of the wood, but most commercially available 'boiled linseed oil' is not just "boiled" linseed oil but rather there are metallic catalysts added which aid in the drying process and can remain in trace amounts. If food safety is a concern, always check what you're buying to see if it's certified as food grade. A nice simple finish I learned about (not very durable but easy to reapply) is melting some (food grade) beeswax and mineral oil to make a paste, which I keep in a glass jar and has stored well for years, then buffing that paste on the surface
Interesting to see cultural differences across the world. In Nordic countries we would most likely stick to raw linseed oil for kitchen counters and similar. And give it a bit of coating every six months or so.
Linseed oil has long been used for gun stocks even military. One old gunsmith book gives a system of a 70% linseed oil and 30 turpentine. Heat it just to boiling and spread it on liberally and let it lay for 10 min wipe of off excess, let sit 24 hrs and repeat until no more absorbs. The put away for a week. Then follow with thin coats and rub in well. Add coats until the desired look is achieved. They were using raw linseed.
3000 grit wow... haven't heard of that. I bought a cedar chest off of craigslist. I sanded it with 80, 120, 180 grit. I bought this Cedar Oil - Giles and Kendall at home depot. Can I dilute it? I'm not versed enough to know whether to use water or like mineral spirits and what would the ratio be? I'm curious because the stuff is expensive lol. It is a very potent oil. Thanks for the vid!!
Oil and water don’t mix very well. If you’re looking to dilute an oil based product mineral spirits would be the way to go. 3000 can be found at your local automotive store. A grit that high doesn’t change the look drastically but does give you a much smoother texture
Trying to treat the 2x4s I used as the framework to my chicken coop. I should have bought treated...I know. Is linseed oil a good way to preserve the 2x4s?
It would certainly be the cheapest but will require a few coats and may need a few more down the line depending the weather conditions. Spar or polyurethane might hold up better but will cost a bit more. An oil based product in general will always be more resistant against weather and water.
Hey man, nice video. However, I'm having a hard time hearing what you're saying even with my volume on max. You might want to do something about it for further videos. Keep it up
@@TexasArtCompany No problem man, in the mean time you can also boost the source audio using a free software like audacity, or directly in your video editing software (which is probably the easiest way to do it)
Minwax and DAP wood filler are good options. Wood filler for large screws can still be seen but smaller holes can certainly be hidden. You can also try filling with saw dust and glue. For smaller holes or cracks I prefer to use the saw dust method. Apply glue, add saw dust, then sand over it as it’s wet. Maybe test both with stain applied and see what works best for you. Good luck 🍀👍
Great video. I read that boiled linseed oil is better for indoor furniture and raw for outdoor. Do you agree? Is it important to put a coat of diluted linseed oil with mineral oil before putting on 100% linseed oil on the wood? Thank yo u.
Diluting the product could certainly help with the penetration but I have found linseed oil penetrates pretty well as is. With that in mind outdoor furniture would certainly need touchups and re-coating as it continues to dry out. I would think it’s a much better indoor product rather than outdoor. But if you don’t mind touchups seasonally linseed oil is the cheapest easiest finish to apply. It’s also very forgiving, if scratches do occur there’s not much on the surface that you have to repair, rather sand and reapply
@@TexasArtCompany Thank you so much for your reply. Do you have an opinon using boiled or raw linseed oil on outdoor furniture? Great video and great thread.
I may have missed it, but it needs about a month to fully cure before it reaches its "Maximum" durability. Still not that durable. I use dewaxed shellac from flakes when I want a fast finish that looks good. It's much more durable than linseed oil.
Downside to BLO Takes a longtime to cure and smells horrible. I prefer 1 part BLO, 2 parts poly or spar varnish, 3 parts mineral spirits. Dries quicker,smells better,and more durable.
Like to add something here as a tip. If you are using boiled linseed oil as you did here, make sure the rags and towels you used are NOT thrown in the trash until 100% completely dry. I mean like, lay them out on ground, single layered, after immediate use. They do have the power to generate enough heat due to the metal salts added to combust on their own. Dangerous stuff if not taken care of properly.
Wonderful information
My son just lost his garage, two cars, an apartment above the garage and of course everything inside the building due to spilled linseed oil that was cleaned up with rags that were put in the trash container. 2 1/2 hours later They combusted and caught on fire 🔥 Thank you for your caution statement, because many of these videos that talk about linseed oil to not include that danger of what to do with the rugs when finished
My friend lost his whole house from a pile of Linseed soaked rags.
@jeanroeder5534 why just on rags though? Why doesn't it combust in the container?
@@timsolomon8352Vapour/oxygen mix. Things that burn have a combustible range of vapour pressure and temperature.
Linseed oil forms into a crystal by combining with oxygen. It forms a transparent lattice structure at the molecular level and has the refractive qualities similar to amber of fir pitch.
This crystallization takes time. Within a month it will be well on its way.
So it is important to let the oil crystallize with oxygen so that a maximum of light(photons) penetrate the wood.(luster).
Applying wax so soon will seal the oil from O2 and stop this crystallization which causes a loss in the crystallization potential.
Applying wax after a few weeks would allow the oil time to crystallize and be more impervious toliquids,and look better.
Thank you 🙏
I am looking to eradicate strong mould/mildew smell from an old wooden chest of drawers. I was going to use boiled linseed first. I'll use your method i think and leave for some months before adding a seal
Add some damar varnish or any turpentine dissolve varnish to the oil. This will set and hold the oil in place to do its crystallisation without coming off with touch.
Thanks v much@@stewartbrands
you couldn't have a prettier piece of wood for this video. Cedar is hard to beat. Good instructions by yourself. Thank you.
Well thank you 🙏, I agree.
A. Cut the Linseed Oil with denatured alcohol 70/30 (30% alcohol) this will help the wood absorb the oil.
B. Repeat the process of oiling the wood over a 2 or 3 day period layering on 2-3 total coats or until the wood appears no longer wanting to absorb more oil.
C. Allow to dry thoroughly for several days or as much as a week before applying any top coatings. It is best to not apply any coatings over wood that is protected with linseed oil until the oil has completely penetrated the wood and the wood has dried. 2-3 weeks depending on the type of wood, it's age, and thickness.
It's best to use natural waxes over wood protected with linseed oil. Some synthetics will not bond properly with the linseed oil or will react negatively with it and can cause 'unusual' color shifts. Learned that one the hard way. Had some old cedar heartwood turn yellowish/pink on a piece I was restoring.
👍👍👍
Have used it on wooden handles of garden tools works good can easily re apply from time to time. Works on the metal parts of it too.
I actually did this summer. Great price and helps slow drying out. Great tip!
I just found you while researching linseed oil and its uses. Super good quality video man thanks for the content
You’re awesome, thanks for noticing the video work. 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks!
Thank you for the support!
I made my first cutting board and after some research decided to treat it with linseed oil 😊 great video!
Thank you for sharing. Good all natural choice. Great product to keep adding as needed.
Beautiful piece of wood 🪵
Thank you very much!
In my experice, applying oil-based (do not use water-based) varnish on top of boiled liseed oil will provide a complete, long lasting barrier for daily-used kitchen tables, etc. Wax can then be used as the last polishing coating, and repolished every year, etc.
Great Tip, Thank you
I'm considering doing this. Would you recommend oil based polyurethane? Should I sand the oiled surface before applying the poly?
Can that be done over 1904 floorboards that have been well treated with boiled linseed oil? I was thinking of in a few years if the floor collects much dirt it may need a poly varnish but I only use poly on dining table tops and hardwearing surface for my toddler not to ruin my last experience of varnishing went badly it was like treacle and was barely speadable.
I just purchased an old fashioned bread box from an estate sale for 50 cents! After sanding off the light varnish it had and years of crud, I've decided this will be my experimental Linseed oil project. Not a table top so it won't be exposed to harsh influences. I'm hoping for the best to protect my homemade bread. Thanks for your instruction.
Sounds like you got a winner. Perfect choice. Very forgiving finish (easy to work with). Good luck 🍀
@@TexasArtCompany thanks for responding it means a lot for a beginner. Your example was well above my level.
Thank you for sharing these tips...
Thank you for the support!
Nice job😄!
Thank you 🙏
Thanks!
Thank you 🙏
Kia Ora & Good Evening from Auckland, New Zealand …great video bro …
Thank you 🙏
Great info dude, this whas the Exact video i whas looking for. ❤
Made my day! Thank you for the support 🙏
I used linseed oil with beeswax on the wood around my hot tub outdoors. 5 yrs later I’m doing it again but probably could go another 5 it’s so effective.
That’s great news, thank you for sharing
Hello my name is LeRoy. I am starting my wood working journey and your video was helpful. I want to make an all natural nontoxic durable finish. I was thinking boiled linseed oil not store bought and bee's wax.
You got this 💪
Is it worth applying a light coat of lacquer over this to use as a table top finish?
Depending the product. I would test first. Oil and water based products can react differently with each other.
Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the support 🙏
Great video thanks
Thank you 🙏
Hi. I’ve got an oak gate that’s maybe 40-50 years old. It’s certainly weathered. I would like to protect it for a few more years; ideally I’d like to maintain the natural color if at all possible. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Linseed oil might be a good budget option. It certainly won’t add years of protection or resistance against the weather but oil and water typically don’t mix. For the price point and ease of application it’s worth a shot. It shouldn’t change the appearance very much but it does have a yellowish tint that would just make it look warm and “wet”. The only downside is how fast does that dry out?
That is a beautiful piece of wood. Can you use that oil for redwoods?
Certainly
Does linseed oil actually create enough of a solid barrier to use sandpaper? I know you're not supposed to go above 200 grit on untreated wood.
For a polish yes but only a 2000/3000 grit polishing sand paper.
@TexasArtCompany Ah, interesting... Thanks!
What is your suggestion to clean and finish a cedar shingle sided shed?
That would depend on the budget and time you’re looking to invest. Oil finishes are budget friendly and are easy to apply but can dry out over time. A poly urethane will last longer but cost more and takes more time to apply.
If you want all-natural, is this good? I recently did a super fast sanding of my desk and applied bees wax to it and the rings are completely gone and it looks way better. But I guess the wax won't lsat long. I want to try linseed oil (raw) on it and then bees wax. I wonder how often you need to maintain wood this way supposing you eat off of it. (I don't eat off my desk, but wondering about my dinign room table.)
For something indoors reapplying every 6 months to a year should work well.
For one thing, it depends on what your definition of 'all natural' is. This finish does help show off the natural traits of the wood, but most commercially available 'boiled linseed oil' is not just "boiled" linseed oil but rather there are metallic catalysts added which aid in the drying process and can remain in trace amounts. If food safety is a concern, always check what you're buying to see if it's certified as food grade. A nice simple finish I learned about (not very durable but easy to reapply) is melting some (food grade) beeswax and mineral oil to make a paste, which I keep in a glass jar and has stored well for years, then buffing that paste on the surface
I really like polyurethane for table tops
I agree. Linseed oil would not be my choice for something that gets a lot of traffic. Although it is a lot easier to fix scratches with an oil finish.
Interesting to see cultural differences across the world. In Nordic countries we would most likely stick to raw linseed oil for kitchen counters and similar. And give it a bit of coating every six months or so.
Dispose of rags and gloves in a can of water. I’ve seen two fires start from improper disposal.
Great tip👍
Linseed oil has long been used for gun stocks even military. One old gunsmith book gives a system of a 70% linseed oil and 30 turpentine. Heat it just to boiling and spread it on liberally and let it lay for 10 min wipe of off excess, let sit 24 hrs and repeat until no more absorbs. The put away for a week. Then follow with thin coats and rub in well. Add coats until the desired look is achieved. They were using raw linseed.
Great info and tips
3000 grit wow... haven't heard of that. I bought a cedar chest off of craigslist. I sanded it with 80, 120, 180 grit. I bought this Cedar Oil - Giles and Kendall at home depot. Can I dilute it? I'm not versed enough to know whether to use water or like mineral spirits and what would the ratio be? I'm curious because the stuff is expensive lol. It is a very potent oil. Thanks for the vid!!
Oil and water don’t mix very well. If you’re looking to dilute an oil based product mineral spirits would be the way to go. 3000 can be found at your local automotive store. A grit that high doesn’t change the look drastically but does give you a much smoother texture
If you’re looking to dilute start small and work your way up. Each product is different and diluting just means it could take longer.
I am in, liked and subscribed..
Next Stop 1k! Thank you.
Trying to treat the 2x4s I used as the framework to my chicken coop. I should have bought treated...I know. Is linseed oil a good way to preserve the 2x4s?
It would certainly be the cheapest but will require a few coats and may need a few more down the line depending the weather conditions. Spar or polyurethane might hold up better but will cost a bit more. An oil based product in general will always be more resistant against weather and water.
Hey man, nice video. However, I'm having a hard time hearing what you're saying even with my volume on max. You might want to do something about it for further videos. Keep it up
Awesome feedback! Thank you. I’m looking into a wireless mic.
@@TexasArtCompany No problem man, in the mean time you can also boost the source audio using a free software like audacity, or directly in your video editing software (which is probably the easiest way to do it)
Hi. Can you polyurethane afterwards? Thanks.
I would not mix them. If you’re looking to add a warmer look to the wood look into an oil based poly. That should give you the best of both.
What’s your best recommended wood filler for finish nail holes to then stain over ? Thanks much
Minwax and DAP wood filler are good options. Wood filler for large screws can still be seen but smaller holes can certainly be hidden. You can also try filling with saw dust and glue. For smaller holes or cracks I prefer to use the saw dust method. Apply glue, add saw dust, then sand over it as it’s wet. Maybe test both with stain applied and see what works best for you. Good luck 🍀👍
@@TexasArtCompany I think saw dust and glue is best option. Titebond?
@@johnc1280 yes sir!!!
Can I add a stain before I use linseed oil? As long as the stainer is also oil based? Or will the linseed oil not work?
As long as the stain has cured and is dry. I wouldn’t rub it in a lot, light coats to build up a finish.
Throw in a bit of oil poly and it will really strengthen it up.
Nice tip 👍
Great video. I read that boiled linseed oil is better for indoor furniture and raw for outdoor. Do you agree? Is it important to put a coat of diluted linseed oil with mineral oil before putting on 100% linseed oil on the wood? Thank yo u.
Diluting the product could certainly help with the penetration but I have found linseed oil penetrates pretty well as is. With that in mind outdoor furniture would certainly need touchups and re-coating as it continues to dry out. I would think it’s a much better indoor product rather than outdoor. But if you don’t mind touchups seasonally linseed oil is the cheapest easiest finish to apply. It’s also very forgiving, if scratches do occur there’s not much on the surface that you have to repair, rather sand and reapply
@@TexasArtCompany Thank you so much for your reply. Do you have an opinon using boiled or raw linseed oil on outdoor furniture? Great video and great thread.
Love this video I know what I am going to be doing this weekend on some wooden unfinished photo frames I have
Thank you for the support, I look forward to making the next few videos.
Is Linseed Oil good for Cedar decks?
I wouldn’t recommend it for something outdoors with that much traffic.
Hi, what would you recommend for an outdoor acacia tiles deck? @@TexasArtCompany
Hello not my native language what is the elbow grease and where do I buy it from store? Many thanks
Term for a “little hard work”. I wish they sold it 😂
What about Tru-Oil gun stock finish?
I haven’t used it myself but a quick search and it looks like a solid stock finish. Easy wipe on, Easy Clean up
Tru oil is good stuff
Can i use pre stain before BLO? I have a maple desk.
It’s a much “lighter finish” for a desk but if you plan to reapply in the future this product should work well.
Good to add some Mineral Turps even 50/50 and it will get deep into the grain
Thanks for the tip
Need about three coats with 24 hours between each coat. Takes about three weeks to cure then you can polish.
🙏👍
I may have missed it, but it needs about a month to fully cure before it reaches its "Maximum" durability. Still not that durable. I use dewaxed shellac from flakes when I want a fast finish that looks good. It's much more durable than linseed oil.
I agree. The test really showed the lack of durability, but on the other hand it’s super easy to apply and cheap.
Pity about the smell from linseed oil, though it disappears eventually.
I don’t seem to mind it
It smells beut what you on about?🤣
@ One persons fragrance, another’s persons crap.
cant hear you
Thank you. I have since purchased a wireless and wired mic. I hope to correct this going forward. Thank you for alerting me.
be careful storing the rags you apply oil with; they can combust randomly when stored
🙏
Downside to BLO
Takes a longtime to cure and smells horrible. I prefer 1 part BLO, 2 parts poly or spar varnish, 3 parts mineral spirits. Dries quicker,smells better,and more durable.
Great tips. Thank you 🙏
comment (cos u asked nicely)
You rock 🪨
Can't hear you....
Thank you for the feedback. I have made changes hopefully fix this going forward.
Audio is super low, barely audible even with my volume turned up to 100%
Thank you. I will make sure to adjust it
Sounds fine to me.
Sorry i couldnt hear anything !
Ooo no, thank you. I’ll check it out
Oil that wood, baby.
🪵 🪵 🪵