Great to hear! Having the QuickJacks definitely helped but having others do it, especially if they can align it afterwards will save you a lot of time.
@@Kianski I'm revisiting now that the weather is warming up and I'm hoping to get the springs on. Could you please tell me the name and brand of the spring compressor you used?
I rented it from AutoZone (you get refunded once you return it so ends up being free). It's this PowerBuilt one: www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/strut-coil-compressor/p/powerbuilt-strut-coil-compressor/537058_0_0?
I'm trying to decide whether or not to get some lowering springs. I'm of two minds, the body roll makes the car fun in every day driving situations, but I've found it can be a little disconcerting when driving the backroads spiritedly. I'm no where near the limits of the car but I am used to cars with much flatter feeling when cornering. It's alright on long sweepers because once the car settles it's fine, but if there are really twisty portions sometimes it feels like there's a bit of lag or delay to inputs. So I'm thinking of getting either some Eibach pro springs or Progress springs, but then I feel like I should do a beginner track day first at least with the stock setup to truly get an understanding of the body roll in performance driving.
Doing a track day first isn’t a bad idea but I bet you’d want a different setup afterwards, like the Ohlins. I can’t say I felt the car was less fun after the lowering springs and sway bar install. Less playful? Sure. More confidence inspiring and enjoyable? Yes.
You could try re-doing loosening all the parts that have bushings, raising the suspension with a jack to simulate it being on the ground and then re-torquing those bolts again. Maybe when you did it during the initial install, you didn't raise it high enough or something so the bushings won't let the car settle fully. Maybe try raising a little more than last time before torquing.
Really awesome video! You're really inspiring me to try and do it myself haha. Did you have to do anything about headlight positioning after you lowered it? Did they need adjusted or are they still good?
Hi, great content! I'd love to download for my desktop, some of the photos and I couldn't find them on your website! Is there somewhere else where these are available?
It’s perfect for spirited street driving but still comfortable for highway cruising! The short overhangs really help with not scraping the front and speed bumps aren’t an issue at all. It’s still a relatively mild drop but that’s all it needed to be dialed in. 👍
Thanks for the video! Just so I’m sure- did you just use the “preload” method while the car was up in the air, or did you drive the car with loose tension bolts before torquing everything down?
Will be doing this in a few days. The lower control arm alignment is confusing me. Looks like this is going to be a lot of trial and error for me. Will be referencing this vid a lot.
@@Kianski Thanks for the reply. I got mine all installed. Everything was pretty even, about 13 1/2” all the way around. But the rear passenger side is sitting at 14”. Is this normal? BTW thank you for uploading this. It was a huge help!
@@jccadventures3667 Glad to hear it! As for the rear passenger side, it should not be 1/2" different from the driver's side. If you're certain of your measurements, verify both sides have the bushings and spacers installed, and springs look even on their respective perches.
Do you have issues with speed bumps, dips, driveways, or inclines in general? I want to get lower the car to get rid of the wheel gap but I don’t want to have to worry about scraping.
The short overhang with the mild drop meant I didn’t have any issues. I still kept the lowered height in mind but unless the speed bump was really tall, I didn’t even need to go over it one wheel at a time. Other options that lower it even more would be borderline but this setup worked out great. 👍
The ND handles so well out of the box it wasn't a drastic improvement (it was also just a mild drop). Handling tightened up a bit without upsetting the balance. Eliminating the wheel gap was the primary motivation for the swap. Between the upgraded sway bars and these springs, the car was perfect for spirited driving. I'd go with coilovers for track duty but that wasn't my goal here.
Here’s what I rented for free from AutoZone: www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/strut-coil-compressor/p/powerbuilt-strut-coil-compressor/537058_0_0
Great video have a quick question though. Did you have to loosen the control arm bushing bolts in the rear? I might have missed it please let me know thank you.
Yes, I had to loosen all 5 bolts on the body side for each of the links that attach to the knuckle. Not by much but just enough to lower it a few inches to get the shock out.
@@Kianski Ah ok thank you. I didn't know if the back was like the front and just had 2 bolts to loosen on the lower control arm. Sounds like the rear has 5 bolts to loosen.
Did the front ground clearance get affected much? Mine’s also a daily & have the same front spoiler. But concerned about scraping it due to lower height.
Based on what the KPC does, I don’t think it would. If the body rolls less, the KPC isn’t as active. Swapping your anti-sway bars would have a bigger impact but still don’t see that as negative interference.
The bare minimum is enough to be able to thread the nut on there. I went another inch or so to be a little conservative; wanted to make sure I had enough room. With the new spring being shorter, you don't need to compress it as much compared to the stock spring.
Hi, I am due to purchase mx5 rf 2 litre and was concerned about it knocking when on a test drive. Called tonight to advise it's had a suspension upgrade. Should I walk away or is this something they should fix before the sale?
If it’s obvious that it’s based on a poor suspension install, that can be fixed. Sometimes the springs aren’t correctly aligned on their perch around the damper so they make a noise over bumps.
@@Kianski hi, thanks for the reply. I am going to speak with the mechanic this afternoon. It's creaking and banging when the steering is being turned and when zizzi zagging,so not necessarily over bumps. Quite quiet on the straight
Thanks! Can't add to the video but you can see more on my Flickr page: www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=116435407%40N03&sort=date-taken-desc&text=miata&view_all=1
Handling will improve with the lower center of gravity. These springs only lower the car by around 1" so it's considered mild, but still really helps the looks by reducing the wheel gap. If you want to reduce body roll, you'll want to install larger sway bars but you can do that separately after the springs.
thanks for the video. very helpful. I'm also about to fit some Eibach pro kit springs. I have just one doubt. in the kit there are two higher and two lower springs. I imagine that the taller ones should be mounted on the front shock absorbers as they have to support a greater weight. Right? thanks again if you want to answer me
I’ll defer to the installation instructions (may have to contact Eibach directly). I know it was pretty clear with the ones I got but not familiar with the Eibach ones.
@@Kianski That was my thinking too! I'm still a little nervous with mods so one that comes with low labor effort is great. Yep! I've taken it to the track and had a great time, bc I wasn't pushing it too hard with stock pads and fluid. But I feel like on mountain roads is where the stock body roll really hurts, it feels scary at the limit instead of confidence inspiring. Hoping some R&T Ohlins helps with that.
Upgrading the sway bars will do much more for body roll control so you could do those first. I noticed a significant improvement when I installed the Progress Tech ones. There’s a video on my channel but it’s a time lapse.
So I finished this project this weekend. I don't know if I did something wrong but my rear is lower than my front also the rear tires seem to be tilted inward. I did everything similarly to what you did however I also loosened the bushing nuts on the wheel hub and then lifted each corner and tightened it all up any idea why this would be I wish I could include pictures but I don't think RUclips will allow that. will an alignment fix this or did I mess something up when I loosened the rear bushing nuts that are connected to the wheel hub?
An alignment (which you needed to do anyway) will fix that. Sounds like you added more freedom for the camber to be adjusted when you jacked up the car with those bushing nuts loose, but there’s no permanent damage. Recommend you drive to the closest, reputable alignment shop to minimize driving it.
@@Kianski yes, I am going to be looking for an alignment shop right away. My main concern was that I did some damage. I actually tried to mark all the bolts and nuts that I was messing with so I could get them back lined up. I obviously did not do a good job, because the rear wheels are so tilted. Thank you so much for your helpful inside. I appreciate it.
In general, springs and shocks should be designed to work together but the springs I installed provide a mild drop. If the springs were more aggressive, it could shorten the life of the shocks in the long term.
@@lucianolucidi8624 Depends on the year/model of your car. If you have the older, harder bilsteins, you get the springs that Flyin Miata sells. If you have the newer (softer) bilsteins you go with the Progress springs from Goodwin. The idea is that ideally the spring rate and damper will be a matched pair. The combinations I mentioned previously accomplish that within reason short of going for a proper new coilover setup.
![Diggy Graves - Red Vineyard [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8Ro085T0mnQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You walked so we could run! Thanks for the video. I'll be referring to it in the future when I purchase parts!
Sure thing! Let me know if you have any questions.
Really enjoyed seeing that. Convinced me to hire someone to do that. At the very end, you said the back is light, but it is a Miata, 50-50 weight.
Great to hear! Having the QuickJacks definitely helped but having others do it, especially if they can align it afterwards will save you a lot of time.
HEY IS TURBO ABAIKANLE FOR MIATA
Ya, same here. If I ever get springs I'll need to add in installation cost!
Thanks for the video I'll be attempting my own when spring rolls around :)
Nice! Same springs or did you go with coilovers?
@@Kianski Progress springs too, I think they offer enough performance and are a great value
@@Kianski I'm revisiting now that the weather is warming up and I'm hoping to get the springs on. Could you please tell me the name and brand of the spring compressor you used?
I rented it from AutoZone (you get refunded once you return it so ends up being free). It's this PowerBuilt one:
www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/strut-coil-compressor/p/powerbuilt-strut-coil-compressor/537058_0_0?
I'm trying to decide whether or not to get some lowering springs. I'm of two minds, the body roll makes the car fun in every day driving situations, but I've found it can be a little disconcerting when driving the backroads spiritedly. I'm no where near the limits of the car but I am used to cars with much flatter feeling when cornering. It's alright on long sweepers because once the car settles it's fine, but if there are really twisty portions sometimes it feels like there's a bit of lag or delay to inputs.
So I'm thinking of getting either some Eibach pro springs or Progress springs, but then I feel like I should do a beginner track day first at least with the stock setup to truly get an understanding of the body roll in performance driving.
Doing a track day first isn’t a bad idea but I bet you’d want a different setup afterwards, like the Ohlins. I can’t say I felt the car was less fun after the lowering springs and sway bar install. Less playful? Sure. More confidence inspiring and enjoyable? Yes.
Good video! nicely filmed n edited, keep it up :)
Appreciate it!
The rears settled nicely the fronts are taking their sweet time . Pretty much no change . Any tips ?
There’s nothing additional to do so assuming no issues with the install, the fronts will settle eventually. Just keeping driving it. 👍
You could try re-doing loosening all the parts that have bushings, raising the suspension with a jack to simulate it being on the ground and then re-torquing those bolts again. Maybe when you did it during the initial install, you didn't raise it high enough or something so the bushings won't let the car settle fully. Maybe try raising a little more than last time before torquing.
Really awesome video! You're really inspiring me to try and do it myself haha. Did you have to do anything about headlight positioning after you lowered it? Did they need adjusted or are they still good?
Nope, didn’t make any adjustments and didn’t notice anything odd. Thanks for watching!
Great DYI!
Wonder if EiBach is a better choice… in the long run
How much was the parts, pls? Progressive Springs? Thx much~
Those springs will outlast the damper, I reckon.
Link for $234 springs:
www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-1847.html
Hi, great content! I'd love to download for my desktop, some of the photos and I couldn't find them on your website! Is there somewhere else where these are available?
looks nice lowered! how is the ride so far? any problem with street driving? do it hit the speed bumps? thanks!
It’s perfect for spirited street driving but still comfortable for highway cruising! The short overhangs really help with not scraping the front and speed bumps aren’t an issue at all. It’s still a relatively mild drop but that’s all it needed to be dialed in. 👍
Thanks for the video!
Just so I’m sure- did you just use the “preload” method while the car was up in the air, or did you drive the car with loose tension bolts before torquing everything down?
I preloaded the bushings by raising each corner with my floor jack until it was barely off the Quick Jacks, then torqued it down. 👍
@@Kianski thank you!
Will be doing this in a few days. The lower control arm alignment is confusing me. Looks like this is going to be a lot of trial and error for me. Will be referencing this vid a lot.
Right on. As for the lower control arms, loosen the nuts just enough to rotate (~1/2 turn).
@@Kianski Thanks for the reply. I got mine all installed. Everything was pretty even, about 13 1/2” all the way around. But the rear passenger side is sitting at 14”. Is this normal?
BTW thank you for uploading this. It was a huge help!
@@jccadventures3667 Glad to hear it! As for the rear passenger side, it should not be 1/2" different from the driver's side. If you're certain of your measurements, verify both sides have the bushings and spacers installed, and springs look even on their respective perches.
Do you have issues with speed bumps, dips, driveways, or inclines in general? I want to get lower the car to get rid of the wheel gap but I don’t want to have to worry about scraping.
The short overhang with the mild drop meant I didn’t have any issues. I still kept the lowered height in mind but unless the speed bump was really tall, I didn’t even need to go over it one wheel at a time.
Other options that lower it even more would be borderline but this setup worked out great. 👍
@@Kianski
❤❤❤
Most importantly, how do you like the revised handling?
The ND handles so well out of the box it wasn't a drastic improvement (it was also just a mild drop). Handling tightened up a bit without upsetting the balance. Eliminating the wheel gap was the primary motivation for the swap.
Between the upgraded sway bars and these springs, the car was perfect for spirited driving. I'd go with coilovers for track duty but that wasn't my goal here.
Could you possibly provide a link or manufacturer / brand for that awesome spring compressor?
Here’s what I rented for free from AutoZone:
www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/strut-coil-compressor/p/powerbuilt-strut-coil-compressor/537058_0_0
Do these provide about 1 inch drop both front and rear?
Yeah, pretty much. I’ve seen cars with these springs and 10 mm spacers and it’s the perfect stance IMO.
Great video have a quick question though. Did you have to loosen the control arm bushing bolts in the rear? I might have missed it please let me know thank you.
Yes, I had to loosen all 5 bolts on the body side for each of the links that attach to the knuckle. Not by much but just enough to lower it a few inches to get the shock out.
@@Kianski Ah ok thank you. I didn't know if the back was like the front and just had 2 bolts to loosen on the lower control arm. Sounds like the rear has 5 bolts to loosen.
Did the front ground clearance get affected much? Mine’s also a daily & have the same front spoiler. But concerned about scraping it due to lower height.
Actually, no. The front overhang is so short and the drop is mild enough where it wasn’t an issue. 👍
Hi. Does lowering the car interfere with the KPC that’s on 2022 models.
Was considering having OEM lowering kit fitted on UK spec Homura
Based on what the KPC does, I don’t think it would. If the body rolls less, the KPC isn’t as active. Swapping your anti-sway bars would have a bigger impact but still don’t see that as negative interference.
thanks for video, was interesting
Glad you enjoyed it!
Silly question but how do you know much to compress the new spring when installing everything back on?
The bare minimum is enough to be able to thread the nut on there. I went another inch or so to be a little conservative; wanted to make sure I had enough room. With the new spring being shorter, you don't need to compress it as much compared to the stock spring.
@@Kianski thank you so much!
What model exact is the blistein? thanks
I’m not sure but you may be able to find it through Bilstein’s website.
@@Kianski ok, I looking for website, thanks
Hi, I am due to purchase mx5 rf 2 litre and was concerned about it knocking when on a test drive. Called tonight to advise it's had a suspension upgrade. Should I walk away or is this something they should fix before the sale?
If it’s obvious that it’s based on a poor suspension install, that can be fixed. Sometimes the springs aren’t correctly aligned on their perch around the damper so they make a noise over bumps.
@@Kianski hi, thanks for the reply. I am going to speak with the mechanic this afternoon. It's creaking and banging when the steering is being turned and when zizzi zagging,so not necessarily over bumps. Quite quiet on the straight
nice video!
can I get some pictures at the end of this video? I've never seen such a cool pictures of Miata!
Thanks! Can't add to the video but you can see more on my Flickr page:
www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=116435407%40N03&sort=date-taken-desc&text=miata&view_all=1
@@Kianski Wow! what a present! thank you
is it okay to share your pictures on MX5 community web site in Korea?
@@user-dr4wl3kk7i sure!
Dream On
🙂
I have a 2020 RF GT and I want to lower it by an inch or two, Is there any difference in the handling?
Handling will improve with the lower center of gravity. These springs only lower the car by around 1" so it's considered mild, but still really helps the looks by reducing the wheel gap.
If you want to reduce body roll, you'll want to install larger sway bars but you can do that separately after the springs.
@@Kianski Thank you for that I'm definitely going to do it.
thanks for the video. very helpful. I'm also about to fit some Eibach pro kit springs. I have just one doubt. in the kit there are two higher and two lower springs. I imagine that the taller ones should be mounted on the front shock absorbers as they have to support a greater weight. Right? thanks again if you want to answer me
I’ll defer to the installation instructions (may have to contact Eibach directly). I know it was pretty clear with the ones I got but not familiar with the Eibach ones.
Just me but if I’m going to that trouble, I’m going with a full coil over instead.
You spend about 10x as much to get comparable coilovers.
I wasn’t planning on tracking it so the springs were sufficient for me. Coilovers are sometimes easier since you don’t have to swap springs.
before is 14 1/2 and after? this measure is missed.
After is 13.5”, I mention it while measuring.
Stock is so high, I feel like I'm driving a monster truck😭.
Looks nice! I want to get some Ohlins for mine
Heard great things with the Ohlins! It also simplifies the install as they come assembled. Planning on tracking it?
@@Kianski That was my thinking too! I'm still a little nervous with mods so one that comes with low labor effort is great.
Yep! I've taken it to the track and had a great time, bc I wasn't pushing it too hard with stock pads and fluid.
But I feel like on mountain roads is where the stock body roll really hurts, it feels scary at the limit instead of confidence inspiring. Hoping some R&T Ohlins helps with that.
Upgrading the sway bars will do much more for body roll control so you could do those first. I noticed a significant improvement when I installed the Progress Tech ones. There’s a video on my channel but it’s a time lapse.
@@Kianski Gonna be doing the ohlins first for a reference point but sway bars will be a fast follow!
BRO WHAT MODS U HAVE ON THE MIATA WHAT TURBO IS AVAILANLE
So I finished this project this weekend. I don't know if I did something wrong but my rear is lower than my front also the rear tires seem to be tilted inward. I did everything similarly to what you did however I also loosened the bushing nuts on the wheel hub and then lifted each corner and tightened it all up any idea why this would be I wish I could include pictures but I don't think RUclips will allow that. will an alignment fix this or did I mess something up when I loosened the rear bushing nuts that are connected to the wheel hub?
An alignment (which you needed to do anyway) will fix that. Sounds like you added more freedom for the camber to be adjusted when you jacked up the car with those bushing nuts loose, but there’s no permanent damage.
Recommend you drive to the closest, reputable alignment shop to minimize driving it.
@@Kianski yes, I am going to be looking for an alignment shop right away. My main concern was that I did some damage. I actually tried to mark all the bolts and nuts that I was messing with so I could get them back lined up. I obviously did not do a good job, because the rear wheels are so tilted. Thank you so much for your helpful inside. I appreciate it.
Good luck. 👍 Let me know how it goes!
@@spartikus1975 Hey, could you give us an update? Did an alignment fix your issues?
@@DaveSimkus yes! That did the trick. Every thing is great now.
Isn't it bad if we change only the shorter springs and leaving the original sospensions?
In general, springs and shocks should be designed to work together but the springs I installed provide a mild drop. If the springs were more aggressive, it could shorten the life of the shocks in the long term.
@@Kianski what kind od springs would you suggest me for my stock bilstein ?
@@lucianolucidi8624 These are the ones I installed and worked great with my Bilsteins:
www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-1847.html
@@lucianolucidi8624 Depends on the year/model of your car. If you have the older, harder bilsteins, you get the springs that Flyin Miata sells. If you have the newer (softer) bilsteins you go with the Progress springs from Goodwin. The idea is that ideally the spring rate and damper will be a matched pair. The combinations I mentioned previously accomplish that within reason short of going for a proper new coilover setup.
@@opmike343 thanks
Hello. witch springs are you using ?¿
The ones by Progress Tech (see link in the decription).
You don't need spring compression tool to reassemble SHORTENED lowering springs 🧐
Depends on the springs. I still needed to compress it to thread the nut on.