Best way to make a cheap CoreXY is to buy a used cheap Ender3 or another brand printer off ebay or craigslist, and then just buy all the extrusions and other hardware you need. That way you get all the main parts for dirt cheap. You can usually find a used printer for under $80
It's amazing to see how this project comes out to be. Love the simplicity in the design, I think this project could be a great foundation for printers to come. Can't wait to build one for myself!
Stay with the name, that tells everything about it straight. Hypercube also not a cube, so nothing to worry😁 For heated bed solution, I think the cheapest will be if you can mount an ender 3 bed. I'll be on holiday on Easter week and it looks like this project will make me busy on that days😁😁😁 Thank you for that massive amount of time you put into this printer to be simple and understandable for everyone
I'm really excited to see this, I'm very new to 3d printer, bought my first 3d printer in March n I learned a lot, but right now my printer bed is shorted because of the movement back and forth, I decided to build a corexy so it gets no movement on the cables. I don't know if I can convert my printer to CoreXY, but I'm learning, tnx you people
I've been looking for a belt-driven Z-axis for a couple of weeks. I'm going to use this plan to modify my 300x300x300 printer (currently based on the Tronxy design). Thanks for creating this. Hope your employment situation has improved.
Love the KISS approach. It can be a cube, and some cad programs allow cubes to be rectangular, so maybe SC3DP SimpleCubic..? Perhaps counterweights on Z belts to control power fail bed drop? Just enough, not full bed weight..
I'm very interested in your belted Z setup. Have you figured out preventing the need from dropping after the motors turn off other than lowering the bed to the bottom?
docking the bed at the bottom after every printer works great for me, I have not had any issues with that. the only other option is gear reduction but it adds complexity
@@Rolohaun if it works it works. I was just curious. I have a corexy printer and I'm in the process of converting a ender 3 to a similar printer. But the ender conversion I'm wanting to go with a belted Z. The other printer I'm on the fence about changing the Z to belted given its size (510x510mm bed). A friend sent me your video and your belted Z grabbed my interest.
I really like your idea of docking the bed at the bottom after completion of print. How is your experience with docking the bed at the bottom? Are you happy with it and would you recommend this to others as well ?
it works well, as long as you don't have constant power outages it works find and I do not have issues. However it might be better for people to use gear reduction stepper motors to prevent bed drop. that is more expensive though
I have an idea so you got the holders for the z-axis steppers and rails and stuff but then under each corner you got an other part to get the printer off the ground I think that could be combined and either make only 3 feet total or safe 2 prints for feet because in 2 more or less corners you already got prints that just need modification
I plan on redesigning my tevo black widow into a corexy. I will have a 400*250mm heated bed right from start. Is the corexy using AWD? mean 2x stepper on x and 2 on y? Great project
I am fairly new to the 3d printing world. I am very interested in building my very own. I have built a conveyor belt printer and have an ender 3 pro. I really want to build my very own coreXY.. do you have a parts breakdown or a how to on your setup? Thanks for the video. Great job
if the power goes out the bed might fall, however if the Z belts are tight it doesn't really move. You can also add a UPS to the printer if that was a concern.
@@Rolohaun oh, now I see! Glass not mounted anywhere and just uses its weight? And will plastic corners cause any problems in case of heated bed (100+ degrees)?
@@nuke_bird glass is mounted to PETG or ABS ledge using 3M VHB taper or red RTV silicon. ABS should have no issues. I don't think the glass bed would transfer 100 degrees ever.
@@Rolohaun interesting! For some reason I thought that for tramming bed shouldn't be attached strong to anything. So, tramming works because belts can stretch?
github is here, please note though I am making some changes for the MK1 release. It now will be using a Voron Trident frame. github.com/rolohaun/SimpleCore
I love this project! Just what the community needs. A modern take on a cheap, customisable coreXY. Looking forward to the next iterations
Best way to make a cheap CoreXY is to buy a used cheap Ender3 or another brand printer off ebay or craigslist, and then just buy all the extrusions and other hardware you need. That way you get all the main parts for dirt cheap. You can usually find a used printer for under $80
yes that is also a option for sure
It's amazing to see how this project comes out to be. Love the simplicity in the design, I think this project could be a great foundation for printers to come. Can't wait to build one for myself!
Very nice project. I am super stoked!
I appreciate the interest!
You did a great job, and I like Simple cube Ultra v2 as a name. Congratulations.
Stay with the name, that tells everything about it straight. Hypercube also not a cube, so nothing to worry😁 For heated bed solution, I think the cheapest will be if you can mount an ender 3 bed.
I'll be on holiday on Easter week and it looks like this project will make me busy on that days😁😁😁 Thank you for that massive amount of time you put into this printer to be simple and understandable for everyone
I'm really excited to see this, I'm very new to 3d printer, bought my first 3d printer in March n I learned a lot, but right now my printer bed is shorted because of the movement back and forth, I decided to build a corexy so it gets no movement on the cables. I don't know if I can convert my printer to CoreXY, but I'm learning, tnx you people
I like that higher enclosed frame design.
I've been looking for a belt-driven Z-axis for a couple of weeks. I'm going to use this plan to modify my 300x300x300 printer (currently based on the Tronxy design). Thanks for creating this. Hope your employment situation has improved.
I didn't think the old one was that bad but I see now where you wanted to improve and you really did
This is incredible! I can't wait to see more on this! It looks much more approachable than a Voron.
Love the KISS approach. It can be a cube, and some cad programs allow cubes to be rectangular, so maybe SC3DP SimpleCubic..? Perhaps counterweights on Z belts to control power fail bed drop? Just enough, not full bed weight..
Of course if a kilogram of filament has been printed, it will fall. :)
Nice EVA callout, thanks!
Thanks for making an awesome toolhead!
Looking good!! I would make it shorter into more of a cube
I've been looking for a good design to convert my old dbot to and this looks like a great option.
when you klipperize can use multiple mcu so you dont need expensive board because has multiple ender boards lying around
I'm very interested in your belted Z setup. Have you figured out preventing the need from dropping after the motors turn off other than lowering the bed to the bottom?
docking the bed at the bottom after every printer works great for me, I have not had any issues with that. the only other option is gear reduction but it adds complexity
@@Rolohaun if it works it works. I was just curious. I have a corexy printer and I'm in the process of converting a ender 3 to a similar printer. But the ender conversion I'm wanting to go with a belted Z. The other printer I'm on the fence about changing the Z to belted given its size (510x510mm bed). A friend sent me your video and your belted Z grabbed my interest.
@@BBMando69 for large printers I do recommend a gear reduction belted z or lead screw
@@Rolohaun that's why I'm on the fence for the large one. But the ender conversation I know i want to do a belted Z.
I really like your idea of docking the bed at the bottom after completion of print. How is your experience with docking the bed at the bottom? Are you happy with it and would you recommend this to others as well ?
it works well, as long as you don't have constant power outages it works find and I do not have issues. However it might be better for people to use gear reduction stepper motors to prevent bed drop. that is more expensive though
Name proposal: Folkbot 😊
I have an idea so you got the holders for the z-axis steppers and rails and stuff but then under each corner you got an other part to get the printer off the ground I think that could be combined and either make only 3 feet total or safe 2 prints for feet because in 2 more or less corners you already got prints that just need modification
I thought about combining the parts but then each print is 2 hours and needs supports, I am trying to find a balance
@@Rolohaun valid Point !
I plan on redesigning my tevo black widow into a corexy.
I will have a 400*250mm heated bed right from start.
Is the corexy using AWD? mean 2x stepper on x and 2 on y?
Great project
This one is not awd but corexy can be
please tell me more details on how to make and the necessary parts
Don't worry I am going going to be doing just that in a week or so
I will wait infor from you
Sweet
I am fairly new to the 3d printing world. I am very interested in building my very own. I have built a conveyor belt printer and have an ender 3 pro. I really want to build my very own coreXY.. do you have a parts breakdown or a how to on your setup? Thanks for the video. Great job
this printer changes it's name to SimpleCore, check out my other videos on that
Very interesting.
85$ hardware costs. Scalable too.
where did you buy your extrusions in canada?
www.fazstore.ca/
Nice design! Do you plan to release it on github?
Yes the parts are on GitHub, you can find the link in a previous video
Onde baixo os STL?
github.com/rolohaun/SimpleCore/tree/main/SimpleCore%20Legacy
Good afternoon, please give me a link to download the project model in stl.
that printer is outdated, please use this github.com/rolohaun/SimpleCore/tree/main/SimpleCore%20Legacy
@@Rolohaun thank you !
This is exactly what i am looking for! Where can i find the files?
You can search SimpleCore and you will find it on github
Using rails like they’re free
I try to make designs that don't use linear rails as much but they do work the best
Will bed fall down in case of electricity shortage?
if the power goes out the bed might fall, however if the Z belts are tight it doesn't really move. You can also add a UPS to the printer if that was a concern.
@@Rolohaun oh, now I see! Glass not mounted anywhere and just uses its weight? And will plastic corners cause any problems in case of heated bed (100+ degrees)?
@@nuke_bird glass is mounted to PETG or ABS ledge using 3M VHB taper or red RTV silicon. ABS should have no issues. I don't think the glass bed would transfer 100 degrees ever.
@@Rolohaun interesting! For some reason I thought that for tramming bed shouldn't be attached strong to anything. So, tramming works because belts can stretch?
@@nuke_bird the bed never gets that out of skew. Maybe 2mm or less, VHB and silicone have enough give to accommodate this.
Is there a link to download the stl files for this upgrade?
github is here, please note though I am making some changes for the MK1 release. It now will be using a Voron Trident frame.
github.com/rolohaun/SimpleCore
@@Rolohaun I´ve downloaded the project and the Fusion file is some sorte of corrupt... only 1Kb size. Can you check please? Thanks
@@a330turbinex7 you need to right click the download link and choose save link as this is a github issue
@@Rolohaun tried that and same problem
@@a330turbinex7 I just downloaded it, 126mb. no issues. I am using google chrome
this is corexyz
just CoreXY, Z has different motors
I thought corexyz means all the axis run using belts@@Rolohaun
@skilledcamman4752 corexyz would be different, this just has belted z with independent motors
oh
@@Rolohaun
Really nice , awesome work!!
Would you mind updating your Discord link? It doesn’t work.
I have updated it