I've had lots of fun modding mine. They work so well and I love quick prints with them. One of mine prints TPU better and faster than any other printer I have.
I'm running 3 motor 3 point bed leveling motion, and a mod that makes the frame a box and gets rid of the annoying top hat. It makes for a very stiff frame and no hinged tophat needed. Panels that clip in and out in a second. I've run a few extruders and so far I like the sharkfin that is based on the sailfin extruder and those are on top of a MiniAS. Nevermore V4 filter helps with more air flow and better chamber temps in addition to filtering ABS. The guys over on the doom cube discord are awesome and share so much hard work. Big thanks because I have never had as much fun as I have modding these awesome little printers.
I do remember competitions about making the cheapest Voron possible using all knockoffs one can find. People managed to achieve 1/2 of median price or so. But in the end, good quality components simply cost money.
You usually do get what you pay for. If I am going to go through all the time and trouble to make a voron im not going to cheap out on the parts. I get why the competitions exist and its for many of the same reasons that one guy built an ak out of a shovel...because he could.
I loved building my V0 and to be honest that was the main reason for getting it. I, just like you, have had issues with the mini afterburner and my next mod is the LGX lite. Thanks for the tip about SLA, I will definitely look into those.
The fix for the wobbly x rail for me was a higher preload on the x rail - Fabreeko sells a "honeybadger" MGN7H rail with high preload. This completely eliminated all slop on the toolhead. I had tried several other rails, LDO, etc., before landing on the Fabreeko fwiw.
@@ryansmith616 I first used a Dragon SF and switched to the HF Heatbrake in the meantime. but then I decide to print a little slower because the cooling wasn't enough. I recently got the Voron revo. 15mm3 is almost perfect. Great print quality and easy to change nozzles.i love the hotend. I'm considering upgrading my Vyper to that too.
if you take your time dialing the two Z-rails there`s no binding. Mine are running smoothly. Also sorry to hear about your experience with the MiniAB. I had no troubles. I am using a aluminium x-carriage though as the printed part is much too flimsy indeed. I suspect other than defective X-rails much of the play in the toolhead comes from this part flexing. I am using two fans to cool my electronics and even the power hungry Pi4 I`m using is running cool. I built mine purely for the enjoyment of doing it as I really have no real need for such a small machine.
Funny intro ;-) I suspect there is no one printer that will do everything. My "dream team" would be a Voron 2.4 350x350 plus a Voron V0. I'd probably use the V0 most of the time due to the extra speed and convenience and lower running cost, and the V2.4 for anything too big for the V0. Possibly I'd run them both in parallel when there are multiple prints to be done. I currently have the V2.4 but have not so far had the funds to commit to a V0. I'd really like one though. And just for a laugh, I'd store it inside the 2.4.
The smooth PIE works wonderfull with ABS - the rough one is for PLA... Thats my experience with all my printers. My V0 is running for a few thousand hours now and the Z-Axis works fine. No problems except that you have to calibrate it new, when the V0 is running more than 5-6 hours. But it is a small amount of adjustment and when you print with a skirt there is enough time to adjust before the print. I have the same experience with the Afterburner mini when I use ABS+. When I use FormFutura TitanX there is no problem but its softer than ABS+ and i want the stronger parts. I will switch to a LGX lite soon. On my Voron 2.4 R2 too.
It looks like a fun printer, but I wish it was 6" cubed. I have 3 printrbot simple metals that run most of my parts, but I have an i3 for medium parts and a CR-10 clone for large parts. My simple metals are rarely too small for most things, but I'd be concerned that less than 5" cubed just wouldn't be big enough. Theoretically I could just get longer extrusions, longer rails and source a bigger bed to make it happen, but that's a lot of work and additional cost when the last Simple Metal I got was less than $100 with shipping.
I purchased an ender 3 v2 thinking "i will need a bigger printer soon". I was so wrong. All my prints would of fit in the 120x120 build plate. I did pick up a cr10 v2 (it was broken but i fixed it) to experiment with larger nozzles. After heavily modifying the cr 10 v2, I would feel happy selling my ender 3 v2 and using the voron for 90% of my prints.
I found the Mini-AB to be pretty lackluster as well. It was almost certainly my printed parts tolerance, but it was the only place the issue came up in my build. I too went with the LGX Lite (and love it), just recently I switched to the BondTech SLS parts and found them... mildly annoying. The swappable hotend mount is annoying, but overall the parts are nice.
There is a new toolhead coming soon, in V0.2. The Mini Stealthburner. The new hotend is much easier to service and has a better mounting, supposedly amongst other things.
@@Knexfoof yea I saw a prototype from the Discord. Looking forward to seeing how it goes, but not sure I’ll switch from my LGX setup personally. Maybe I’ll build a second. 😅
throw that lgx lite official mount and print the miniAfterSherpa with LGX Mod, you will not get any y offset changes it fits with the same x carriage mount as miniAB.
You know, I've heard that there is a Stealthburner style shroud for the LGX Lite that fits the V0.1 somewhere on TeamFDM. I think another upgrade would make for some good content :)
if your X linear rail was wobbly, might have not followed the instructions very well. you are supposed to take the best rails you get for the X axis, then the next best ones for Y and the "worst" for Z.
Built mine just because I could and I'm waiting for the room for a bigger one. Modded with a picam, LEDs, LGX lite, umbilical, taller hinged hat, filament sensor, klipper screen, nevermore so far. If I was going to do it again, I'd use 2020, and build it around a Prusa mini clone bed though so my plates would be interchangeable.
@@mocotonio probs just do a custom size one, most of the tiny m parts would fit I suppose and could mod or CAD any replacements I need Once you've done a 0.1 I reckon you could do anything
Love my 0.1, it's incredibly solid and reliable. I've not had issues with the mini AB, I mostly print PETG on it which should surely be super problematic, but it's been fine so after about 90 hours.
The bargain of the century is the Bambu Lab P1P at $699 that is just as small as the Voron 0.1 with more than DOUBLE the print volume of the 0.1, CHEAPER than the 0.1 and FASTER than the voron 0.1...
MiniAB is indeed shite, i switched to Sherpa Mini because it did not require any extra hardware from the LDO kit apart from the printed parts Agree with most of your comments except the z rails - they just need patience. The aluminium profile bed holder is not ideal but it works - have a kirigami as a future mod.
![KAYTRANADA - Witchy (feat. Childish Gambino) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jGK3YVmGZ3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
I've had lots of fun modding mine. They work so well and I love quick prints with them. One of mine prints TPU better and faster than any other printer I have.
I'm running 3 motor 3 point bed leveling motion, and a mod that makes the frame a box and gets rid of the annoying top hat. It makes for a very stiff frame and no hinged tophat needed. Panels that clip in and out in a second. I've run a few extruders and so far I like the sharkfin that is based on the sailfin extruder and those are on top of a MiniAS. Nevermore V4 filter helps with more air flow and better chamber temps in addition to filtering ABS. The guys over on the doom cube discord are awesome and share so much hard work. Big thanks because I have never had as much fun as I have modding these awesome little printers.
I do remember competitions about making the cheapest Voron possible using all knockoffs one can find. People managed to achieve 1/2 of median price or so.
But in the end, good quality components simply cost money.
You usually do get what you pay for. If I am going to go through all the time and trouble to make a voron im not going to cheap out on the parts. I get why the competitions exist and its for many of the same reasons that one guy built an ak out of a shovel...because he could.
I loved building my V0 and to be honest that was the main reason for getting it. I, just like you, have had issues with the mini afterburner and my next mod is the LGX lite. Thanks for the tip about SLA, I will definitely look into those.
Mini afterburner is real crap. Fo for the LGX Lite.
The fix for the wobbly x rail for me was a higher preload on the x rail - Fabreeko sells a "honeybadger" MGN7H rail with high preload. This completely eliminated all slop on the toolhead. I had tried several other rails, LDO, etc., before landing on the Fabreeko fwiw.
Nice reviewing!
Love mine Voron 0.1. Upgrading and tuning it makes so much fun. Also have the LGX Lite install last week and it works really well.
What hotend are you using?
@@ryansmith616 I first used a Dragon SF and switched to the HF Heatbrake in the meantime. but then I decide to print a little slower because the cooling wasn't enough. I recently got the Voron revo. 15mm3 is almost perfect. Great print quality and easy to change nozzles.i love the hotend. I'm considering upgrading my Vyper to that too.
if you take your time dialing the two Z-rails there`s no binding. Mine are running smoothly. Also sorry to hear about your experience with the MiniAB. I had no troubles. I am using a aluminium x-carriage though as the printed part is much too flimsy indeed. I suspect other than defective X-rails much of the play in the toolhead comes from this part flexing. I am using two fans to cool my electronics and even the power hungry Pi4 I`m using is running cool. I built mine purely for the enjoyment of doing it as I really have no real need for such a small machine.
Funny intro ;-) I suspect there is no one printer that will do everything. My "dream team" would be a Voron 2.4 350x350 plus a Voron V0. I'd probably use the V0 most of the time due to the extra speed and convenience and lower running cost, and the V2.4 for anything too big for the V0. Possibly I'd run them both in parallel when there are multiple prints to be done. I currently have the V2.4 but have not so far had the funds to commit to a V0. I'd really like one though. And just for a laugh, I'd store it inside the 2.4.
The smooth PIE works wonderfull with ABS - the rough one is for PLA... Thats my experience with all my printers. My V0 is running for a few thousand hours now and the Z-Axis works fine. No problems except that you have to calibrate it new, when the V0 is running more than 5-6 hours. But it is a small amount of adjustment and when you print with a skirt there is enough time to adjust before the print.
I have the same experience with the Afterburner mini when I use ABS+. When I use FormFutura TitanX there is no problem but its softer than ABS+ and i want the stronger parts. I will switch to a LGX lite soon. On my Voron 2.4 R2 too.
Print all my abs on the textured side, think ts just down to individual preference at the end of the day.
Dat opening skit doe - brilliant. Could absolutely get used to seeing more of those in your future reviews!
It looks like a fun printer, but I wish it was 6" cubed. I have 3 printrbot simple metals that run most of my parts, but I have an i3 for medium parts and a CR-10 clone for large parts. My simple metals are rarely too small for most things, but I'd be concerned that less than 5" cubed just wouldn't be big enough. Theoretically I could just get longer extrusions, longer rails and source a bigger bed to make it happen, but that's a lot of work and additional cost when the last Simple Metal I got was less than $100 with shipping.
Hey you should really put a heatsink on that rpie zero.
I purchased an ender 3 v2 thinking "i will need a bigger printer soon". I was so wrong. All my prints would of fit in the 120x120 build plate. I did pick up a cr10 v2 (it was broken but i fixed it) to experiment with larger nozzles. After heavily modifying the cr 10 v2, I would feel happy selling my ender 3 v2 and using the voron for 90% of my prints.
I live in the mountains of Colorado with no seagulls so I thought it was actually awesome to hear the seagulls in the background :)
Can you link those modifications please? Especially the hinged top and back door?
I found the Mini-AB to be pretty lackluster as well. It was almost certainly my printed parts tolerance, but it was the only place the issue came up in my build. I too went with the LGX Lite (and love it), just recently I switched to the BondTech SLS parts and found them... mildly annoying. The swappable hotend mount is annoying, but overall the parts are nice.
There is a new toolhead coming soon, in V0.2. The Mini Stealthburner. The new hotend is much easier to service and has a better mounting, supposedly amongst other things.
@@Knexfoof yea I saw a prototype from
the Discord. Looking forward to seeing how it goes, but not sure I’ll switch from my LGX setup personally. Maybe I’ll build a second. 😅
Yes of course!
throw that lgx lite official mount and print the miniAfterSherpa with LGX Mod, you will not get any y offset changes it fits with the same x carriage mount as miniAB.
nice video especially tha mods. is there a list from were you got them?
You know, I've heard that there is a Stealthburner style shroud for the LGX Lite that fits the V0.1 somewhere on TeamFDM.
I think another upgrade would make for some good content :)
if your X linear rail was wobbly, might have not followed the instructions very well. you are supposed to take the best rails you get for the X axis, then the next best ones for Y and the "worst" for Z.
Built mine just because I could and I'm waiting for the room for a bigger one. Modded with a picam, LEDs, LGX lite, umbilical, taller hinged hat, filament sensor, klipper screen, nevermore so far.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use 2020, and build it around a Prusa mini clone bed though so my plates would be interchangeable.
I think you should look into the Tiny-M, then.
@@mocotonio probs just do a custom size one, most of the tiny m parts would fit I suppose and could mod or CAD any replacements I need
Once you've done a 0.1 I reckon you could do anything
Love my 0.1, it's incredibly solid and reliable. I've not had issues with the mini AB, I mostly print PETG on it which should surely be super problematic, but it's been fine so after about 90 hours.
Am I the only one triggered by those 2 trapped, unused T-nuts?
Trust me. I'm also triggered. This is the downside of the v0 frame and nuts, they are not easily removed without disassembly.
Adam, I have heard people say it is very hard to work on during assembly because of the size, what is your opinion on this statement?
Yes. It's a nightmare, print a metric ton of no drop nuts and measure and square everything as many times as you can
Me looks at my v0.1 and goes, sub 3:30 for a Benchy. No problem! (Yes I’m plugging my channel)
Put a heat sink on that Pi chip! You many not need a fan at all
So what s the ldo motors official website cause some time ago I only cound find a sketchy website?
LDO only supply via resellers your best approach is to join the discord and look at the vendors section :)
I want 300$ mini printer able to print ABS at 80m/s, is this possible?
This is more like $500 but will print all day at 90-120 without being especially well tuned
i think the x1 carbon mite have put that to bed lol
To small for the money compared to the other vorons. I don’t see much benefits compared to a bigger one.
The bargain of the century is the Bambu Lab P1P at $699 that is just as small as the Voron 0.1 with more than DOUBLE the print volume of the 0.1, CHEAPER than the 0.1 and FASTER than the voron 0.1...
MiniAB is indeed shite, i switched to Sherpa Mini because it did not require any extra hardware from the LDO kit apart from the printed parts Agree with most of your comments except the z rails - they just need patience. The aluminium profile bed holder is not ideal but it works - have a kirigami as a future mod.
expensive 😂😂😂 1/3 the price of a 2.4
While I like the design, it is way overpriced for me and I doubt I will get one. For the price it should come fully assembled and tested.
where's the fun in that?!