They call it advance technology If you need to use a electronic device just to push the break pad piston. The right term of this is “greed technology” or “nonsense technology.”
@Will Senger you are correct but this will not calibrate the system and may still leave you stranded with a locked up EBrake so be ready to release your brakes according to other videos. We can stop using the EBrake and no more worries. We can build modification with a bypass switch to do what you have identified as one possibility for reoccurring problems hehehe. We could hear the piston being pushed out until the brake was locked and then pulled back into the caliper a little where it is properly calibrated and the module knows exactly where it is located now.
I tried this job. This is a great video. I pulled out the plug on the servo motor and connected two terminals and provided 12V current. The motor retracted with no problems. I accidentally hit the parking brake button at which point car started showing me an error about tire monitor being unavailable or so. I finished the job, ran the car and within 1min driving, the error went away.
Nice video dude. An easy way to get around all these silly scan tool steps is a 12v battery. Remove connector and stick the wires from the battery into the holes on the motor-side connector. Switch polarity to make the motor turn the other way. Works for cycling the solenoid on the brake system too (when you're flushing fluid). It's important to remember that all these components are just waiting for a 12v signal... Big companies want us to buy fancy tools because they think we can't figure that out.
Hi, how about how to recalibrate again the piston by using the 12volts battery? Should i just switch again the polarities? Or it recallibrates automatically when i press the breaks and the parking break button?
@@aronmontero9170 Depends a bit on the car, they're all a bit different. I'd reverse polarity to see if the motor puts the piston back in place. Most likely it will. The final position/calibration should be something the computer does provided the piston is near. Some models will likely put the piston back in place automatically even when fully retracted. It's important to experiment a little bit and see how your computer reacts and of course test your final setup before you use it in a real life situation.
This is a high quality, clear video. The key points are explained clearly, and the parts of the job that are obvious are fast forwarded through so it doesn't waste time. If I have to be picky - I never put vise-grips on a good nut or bolt, I'll grind an old wrench narrower to fit in place. I want the peaks and flats on the hex there for when that bolt becomes corroded and I need them. Otherwise, pretty close to perfect service video.
This is an excellent video! Clear instruction, Clearly shows areas being worked on and special tools required. Will be doing my brakes once I receive the electronic tool referred to. Thanks!!
You don't need any scan tool to do this job and you don't have to take off the ebrake motor either. All electric ebrakes are the same, they just use a window motor to apply the brake. So all you have to do is disconnect the wires to the motor and apply 12 volts to one terminal on the motor and ground the other. If it tightens up the brake then reverse the wires until the ebrake is completely retracted motor stops turning. Install the pads and apply 12 volts to the motor until it tightens up the brake and than reverse wires again until wheel turns free. At this point apply the ebrake from inside the car and release. You are now finished and can pump up the brake pedal and road test. One word to the wise, make sure you open the bleeder to the caliper before pushing the piston back, due not push the fluid back into the master cylinder.
@@sakitlikod1 yes as long as there is a motor on the back of the caliper with 2 wires going to it, disconnect the wires and take 2 jumper wires to 12 volt source and if the motor tightens up the brakes reverse the wires and go until the motor stops.
Brake fluid is one of those things that doesn't go anywhere,your either fine or you have a leak. What happens in many cases is people let their pads go way low and of course the fluid goes waaaay low also,then a son or brother or whatever borrows the car and goes "wow, look at that master cylinder its almost empty" then proceeds to fill it to the top, guess what happens when a poor sod puts new pads on the car and pushes the piston in? biiiig mess!!! If no one has messed with your reservoir leave it alone!! when you put new pads in it it will go back exactly where it was when the pad was new, no need to open the bleeders period. proper procedure is to SLOWLY push your piston back in and your good, no need to open bleeders although opening your master cylinder cap is not a bad idea but not necessary, the key is to go real slow.
Nice shout out to the Zimmermann quality... For those that don't know already, Zimmermann rules all. Brembo and ATE are close seconds, but are merely Odin's sons.
Just FYI, you can manually retract the electronic brake by taking off the black electronic thingy attached to the caliper. There’s a RUclips video on it.
Ethan Webb here u go sir. I didn’t even have a caliper tool, just a c-clamp to retract the piston. Good luck; reply with any questions ruclips.net/video/wAB43eO7wIs/видео.html
Pushing back the piston without turning? Will this work on a 2011 jetta sel? Thanks. Good video, glad I dont have the electronic e-brake. Btw, I had to remove a trailing arm bolt/bushing to give me enough room to use a 1/2in breaker bar w/extension on the lower caliper bracket bolt.
I have to say... I don't quite believe what you said about the motor setting the park brake at a certain position. As the pad wears, the position will change. Putting the car in neutral to release the brake, then unplugging the motor works like a champ. Excellent video, however.
@@valentinvsk4621 May work for a while, but even if you have the iCarsoft tool, it sometimes requires calibration of the caliper, due the rain sensor on the windscreen . The rain sensor and the calipers works together, if it is too moist/wet when you drive, the pads will slightly apply pressure on the rotors to prevent moisture between rotor and pad. If you don't calibrate, you probably get excessive wear on the pads and maybe damages the piston/piston seals. P.s No, idon't work for Volkswagen Audi group, this happen to a friend of mine.
Ok found your video little too late. I Have now the parking brake light on my dash flashing and beeping at me for not using a scanner that I don’t have. So now how do I get this issue resolved do I need a mechanic to just re calibrate the caliper or does it need more then that? I’m working on a 2010 VW CC also. Thanks in advance. Your video is very informative and helpful 👍
I've heard it said the reason to connect a battery charger is because some VW models have a sensitive e-barke controller that can get damaged if the battery voltage gets too low.
They have been torque to yield for 30 years that i know of,you will meet someone that has fallen of a building before you meet someone that has changed those, maybe Formula 1 mechanics and Nascar but thats it,lol.
Can you tell me if a 2015 Golf "Launch Edition", the cheapest version of the MK6 Golf, should have an electric E brake? I can't see any electrical connectors. Back in August a local shop changed both rear calipers and pads. They started dragging, heating up. I complained and complained and got nowhere with local shops and dealers. Finally I got a local shop to loosen the "E brake cable", which I assume tells me there is no electric brake. The brakes don't heat up as much, but my MPG is still 30% below normal, and I get a quick, double "pop" from the rear when I first apply the brakes. Crummy service here. I don't do my own service because Lyme disease left me dizzy and weak years ago.
@FCPEuro - I like how the Description shows NO CC models only Passat variants... yet the demonstration is done with the CC. Might be confusing for some, you should fix that.
I was trying to use exactly what you used in the video, so I bought a new iCarsoft VAG II from Amazon. Just want to be sure it’s still a working method to change pads for 2009 VW Passat?
I changed those rear brakes before, never used the tool, never had any problems. Loosen the cap on your master cylinder and push the piston back in with your hands and fingers, tool not needed
Great video! One question; I see you did this without a battery charger, did you have to turn the ignition off (between caliper retraction and brake reset) or was the ignition 'ON' the whole time?
If you can't fit a long enough breaker bar to get it loose due to being too close to the ground, you can try raising the car up higher. But this should be totally doable on jack stands!
Well I don’t know about the VCD. You say that without the tools you cannot do service but in the end of the video you say that you need to push couple of times break pedal to reset the electric parking system. That is a bit confusing so why I need the VCD tools?
Pushing the brake pedal a few times puts the regular hydraulic brake piston back in its normal position. This is something you should do on any car, even with a traditional parking brake. However, pushing the brake pedal will not put the electronic parking brake actuator in its normal "ready" position.
I just received my special tool. Thank you. My question now is can I do one side at a time or do I remove both brake pads from each wheel before doing the retraction.
I am about to attempt to service my 2013 Passat b7's brakes. Are they similar enough that this is a useful guide? I know the CC is AWD, so I figured I should ask.
You can manually retract the ebrake piston, by manually turning the bolt clockwise. All ebrake system work in the same manner. There are only 2 ways of doing this. 1. Is the scanner and 2. Is manually doing it.
I suppose triple square is actually what it is. I’ve always thought the points looked a bit sharper than right angles. I must go look again. I’m not a square honest 😃
Is there any reason why I shouldn't retract the rear brakes before lifting the car? Also, does releasing the brakes via the lever in the car only retract them partially?
Jakin, does your car have an electronic brake, or a manually operated handbrake? When you say, lever, that leads me to believe you have a manual parking brake, in which case, you don't need to electronically reset anything.
You can elect with proper training to open the EPB housing using the two torx head screws and retract the electric part manually, but spray first with penetrating lub like wd-40 first so as not to crack the housing, then on the caliper side using the appropriate T40 or T45 torx bit to turn the electric part clockwise until it stops. Then proceed with the rest of the job like you normally would. Peace
Autozone has a scan tool for this job thru the loan a tool. Its called brake reset tool you pick your auto manufacturer and it goes right to what you need. Part number 27302.
@@fcpeuro Ok. I will double check. Have to take the wheel off anyway ;) My Passat does have a button on the left of the dash that IS some kind of electrical brake. I hear a motor of some kind making noise when I push the button. I use it when parking on a hill or when I want the car to have the key in battery mode to power the 12V sockets but have the stupid daylight running lights turn off.
Yes B6 Passat has the electronic parking brake. He did the procedure wrong. The first thing he should have done was to retract the parking brake to the service position. The electronic parking brake should NEVER be operated while disassembled. It is also important to follow the procedure EXACTLY, without skipping any steps shown on the scan tool. The EPB is a temperamental bastard and will totally fuck up your day if you don't follow procedure.
Thanks, great video. I have a 2015 Passat SE with a manual parking brake. However there is a hill assist feature, does this mean it has a servo motor, and needs to be electronically released, like in the video?
Hi Towi, it's difficult to help without looking at the car. I would try running through the reset steps again. If that doesn't work you may need to bring it to your local service center to have it checked.
How to compress the caliper or "Electronic parking brake retraction" is what most people are looking for. Here you are: ruclips.net/video/wAB43eO7wIs/видео.html
@@edsam0926 I didn't get it yet but will.....gonna buy it from Deutche Auto Parts...they seem to have the best deal....I already did the front brakes and the rears have alittle more life in them upon inspection.
Rotors on these cars don't have much extra material on them. They don't typically get turned on a brake lathe because the rotor would end up being too thin. I remember hearing a recommendation to change the rotors every other time the pads are changed.
Saw the same thing as he chucked them into the green bin. Unless that rotor was really worn or warped, I would’ve cleaned/lubed stuff and put it back together. Love FCP though and their great vids.
Finally a video that correctly completes the brake job. Cleaning the parts, replacing the clips and properly resetting the electronics!
They call it advance technology If you need to use a electronic device just to push the break pad piston. The right term of this is “greed technology” or “nonsense technology.”
@Will Senger you are correct but this will not calibrate the system and may still leave you stranded with a locked up EBrake so be ready to release your brakes according to other videos. We can stop using the EBrake and no more worries. We can build modification with a bypass switch to do what you have identified as one possibility for reoccurring problems hehehe. We could hear the piston being pushed out until the brake was locked and then pulled back into the caliper a little where it is properly calibrated and the module knows exactly where it is located now.
I tried this job. This is a great video. I pulled out the plug on the servo motor and connected two terminals and provided 12V current. The motor retracted with no problems. I accidentally hit the parking brake button at which point car started showing me an error about tire monitor being unavailable or so. I finished the job, ran the car and within 1min driving, the error went away.
That's how I have always done it don't need expensive scan tools for this job
Nice video dude. An easy way to get around all these silly scan tool steps is a 12v battery. Remove connector and stick the wires from the battery into the holes on the motor-side connector. Switch polarity to make the motor turn the other way. Works for cycling the solenoid on the brake system too (when you're flushing fluid). It's important to remember that all these components are just waiting for a 12v signal... Big companies want us to buy fancy tools because they think we can't figure that out.
Glad you like the video, Peter! And thanks for the tips, pretty neat that you can do it that way!
Hi, how about how to recalibrate again the piston by using the 12volts battery? Should i just switch again the polarities? Or it recallibrates automatically when i press the breaks and the parking break button?
@@aronmontero9170 Depends a bit on the car, they're all a bit different. I'd reverse polarity to see if the motor puts the piston back in place. Most likely it will. The final position/calibration should be something the computer does provided the piston is near. Some models will likely put the piston back in place automatically even when fully retracted. It's important to experiment a little bit and see how your computer reacts and of course test your final setup before you use it in a real life situation.
Ok. Thanks a lot for your advice. 👍
Honestly best video out there for this hands done thanks for actually walking through it and explaining things
This is a high quality, clear video.
The key points are explained clearly, and the parts of the job that are obvious are fast forwarded through so it doesn't waste time.
If I have to be picky - I never put vise-grips on a good nut or bolt, I'll grind an old wrench narrower to fit in place.
I want the peaks and flats on the hex there for when that bolt becomes corroded and I need them.
Otherwise, pretty close to perfect service video.
would be nice to see how to retractcaliper pistons without scan tool,possibly thrusteering wheel control buttons
Fcp is the best VW parts company out there
really?
This is an excellent video! Clear instruction, Clearly shows areas being worked on and special tools required. Will be doing my brakes once I receive the electronic tool referred to. Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
You don't need any scan tool to do this job and you don't have to take off the ebrake motor either. All electric ebrakes are the same, they just use a window motor to apply the brake. So all you have to do is disconnect the wires to the motor and apply 12 volts to one terminal on the motor and ground the other. If it tightens up the brake then reverse the wires until the ebrake is completely retracted motor stops turning. Install the pads and apply 12 volts to the motor until it tightens up the brake and than reverse wires again until wheel turns free. At this point apply the ebrake from inside the car and release. You are now finished and can pump up the brake pedal and road test. One word to the wise, make sure you open the bleeder to the caliper before pushing the piston back, due not push the fluid back into the master cylinder.
Mark Foreman , is this also same application for 2012 Audi Q5 awd without using a scan tool?
@@sakitlikod1 yes as long as there is a motor on the back of the caliper with 2 wires going to it, disconnect the wires and take 2 jumper wires to 12 volt source and if the motor tightens up the brakes reverse the wires and go until the motor stops.
Smart and logical tech!!!!!
Brake fluid is one of those things that doesn't go anywhere,your either fine or you have a leak.
What happens in many cases is people let their pads go way low and of course the fluid goes waaaay low also,then a son or brother or whatever borrows the car and goes "wow, look at that master cylinder its almost empty" then proceeds to fill it to the top, guess what happens when a poor sod puts new pads on the car and pushes the piston in? biiiig mess!!!
If no one has messed with your reservoir leave it alone!! when you put new pads in it it will go back exactly where it was when the pad was new, no need to open the bleeders period. proper procedure is to SLOWLY push your piston back in and your good, no need to open bleeders although opening your master cylinder cap is not a bad idea but not necessary, the key is to go real slow.
Nice shout out to the Zimmermann quality... For those that don't know already, Zimmermann rules all. Brembo and ATE are close seconds, but are merely Odin's sons.
Just FYI, you can manually retract the electronic brake by taking off the black electronic thingy attached to the caliper. There’s a RUclips video on it.
Hi, could you possibly share the link? Thank you.
Ethan Webb here u go sir. I didn’t even have a caliper tool, just a c-clamp to retract the piston. Good luck; reply with any questions ruclips.net/video/wAB43eO7wIs/видео.html
@@roger3958 thank you very much. May you have a great day!
Pushing back the piston without turning? Will this work on a 2011 jetta sel? Thanks. Good video, glad I dont have the electronic e-brake. Btw, I had to remove a trailing arm bolt/bushing to give me enough room to use a 1/2in breaker bar w/extension on the lower caliper bracket bolt.
I have to say... I don't quite believe what you said about the motor setting the park brake at a certain position. As the pad wears, the position will change. Putting the car in neutral to release the brake, then unplugging the motor works like a champ. Excellent video, however.
Excellent demonstration
Dont need vagcom just remove e brake housing and retract e brake motor bolt fully then push piston back the
Matthew williams can you explain what you mean by remove e brake housing ?
@@lamarjones62 ruclips.net/video/NGXGRMLQsMU/видео.html there is a guide here
@@valentinvsk4621 May work for a while, but even if you have the iCarsoft tool, it sometimes requires calibration of the caliper, due the rain sensor on the windscreen .
The rain sensor and the calipers works together, if it is too moist/wet when you drive, the pads will slightly apply pressure on the rotors to prevent moisture between rotor and pad.
If you don't calibrate, you probably get excessive wear on the pads and maybe damages the piston/piston seals.
P.s No, idon't work for Volkswagen Audi group, this happen to a friend of mine.
Ok found your video little too late. I Have now the parking brake light on my dash flashing and beeping at me for not using a scanner that I don’t have. So now how do I get this issue resolved do I need a mechanic to just re calibrate the caliper or does it need more then that? I’m working on a 2010 VW CC also. Thanks in advance. Your video is very informative and helpful 👍
I've heard it said the reason to connect a battery charger is because some VW models have a sensitive e-barke controller that can get damaged if the battery voltage gets too low.
Fantastic but... I did exactly this but I get a flashing EPB light and dash warning?
What if u don't have scanner reset it? Is there reset manual available?
I believe those rear caliper bracket mounting bolts are torque to yield and are supose to be replaced at each brake service
Yes, VW says you have to change the hex bolts that screw into the guide pins at every brake service. The torque spec is 35 Nm.
Yeah, vw want you to put as many parts as possible on your car at every opportunity
They have been torque to yield for 30 years that i know of,you will meet someone that has fallen of a building before you meet someone that has changed those, maybe Formula 1 mechanics and Nascar but thats it,lol.
Thank you so much for your video man, I would have never known that I need a 14mm triple square bit
What’s the screw size for the caliper carrier bolts? I literally can’t find them anywhere to take them off
Hi Mario Macias - a 14mm triple square socket is the tool you're looking for!
@@fcpeuro I stripped my rear brake caliper screw on my mk6 jetta would you know what size the screw is?
Thanks
Is there a version of that tablet thats less expensive. I cant get my caliber off an i dont have 400 to spend
Is this basically the same process for a 2013 passat with a manual e brake
It's a little different due to the parking brake being electric vs manual, but basically the same process.
I have a Tiguan 2020 what is the scan tool that you recommend for this service and others as well. Thank you for this videos
Can you tell me if a 2015 Golf "Launch Edition", the cheapest version of the MK6 Golf, should have an electric E brake? I can't see any electrical connectors. Back in August a local shop changed both rear calipers and pads. They started dragging, heating up. I complained and complained and got nowhere with local shops and dealers. Finally I got a local shop to loosen the "E brake cable", which I assume tells me there is no electric brake. The brakes don't heat up as much, but my MPG is still 30% below normal, and I get a quick, double "pop" from the rear when I first apply the brakes. Crummy service here. I don't do my own service because Lyme disease left me dizzy and weak years ago.
Thank you!
@FCPEuro - I like how the Description shows NO CC models only Passat variants... yet the demonstration is done with the CC. Might be confusing for some, you should fix that.
Good job
I was trying to use exactly what you used in the video, so I bought a new iCarsoft VAG II from Amazon. Just want to be sure it’s still a working method to change pads for 2009 VW Passat?
Nice Video and explanation, thanks.
You're welcome, Attaullah!
In the video you recommend the iCar soft scanner however you list Autel MX808 in your recommended list. Why the change?
Great video, thanks! I use the Carista Module for the E-Brake retraction.
Is this the exact same process as above with the carista?
My caristia is not showing that option for brakes. Are you using one of there partner apps.
My car doesn't have an electronic parking brake. Its a manual parking brake. Is it necessary to use a scan tool to service brake?
Is this the same process for a 2013 VW CC?
Do you need this neat tool if you are only replacing the brake pads and not the rotors?
Asking for my 2011 a4
Thanks in advance.
Best video!
Yes, you will need the caliper retracting software for the rear brakes.
The link is not working for me to buy the tool.
Needing vagcom is only required on certain VW models. Models with manual ebrake it is not required. My jetta mk6.5 sport does not
models with EPB
What is the name of that thing that you use at 8:53
I changed those rear brakes before, never used the tool, never had any problems. Loosen the cap on your master cylinder and push the piston back in with your hands and fingers, tool not needed
Does it pertain to my 2014 Passat SE 1.8 ?
It would be a very similar process.
Where can I get that scanner
Great video! One question; I see you did this without a battery charger, did you have to turn the ignition off (between caliper retraction and brake reset) or was the ignition 'ON' the whole time?
The ignition will need to be in accessory mode.
@@fcpeuro I will be trying this pretty soon. So you left the car in ACC mode the whole time after you retracted the EPB?
I took the servo off and never had an issue.
You guys are good! I ordered from you already but didn't know you do repair. You anywhere near Athens GA?
Unfotunately we don't actually do repair, just for the videos. But we're in Milford, CT
If you have to do this on jack stands how do you find the leverage to break the caliper holder free?
If you can't fit a long enough breaker bar to get it loose due to being too close to the ground, you can try raising the car up higher. But this should be totally doable on jack stands!
Well I don’t know about the VCD. You say that without the tools you cannot do service but in the end of the video you say that you need to push couple of times break pedal to reset the electric parking system. That is a bit confusing so why I need the VCD tools?
The scan tool is needed when servicing the rear brakes because of the electronic parking brake.
libor gess right lol
Pushing the brake pedal a few times puts the regular hydraulic brake piston back in its normal position. This is something you should do on any car, even with a traditional parking brake. However, pushing the brake pedal will not put the electronic parking brake actuator in its normal "ready" position.
I just received my special tool. Thank you. My question now is can I do one side at a time or do I remove both brake pads from each wheel before doing the retraction.
Hello Fernando, you should be fine using the tool and doing one side at a time.
Hi Fernando, can you send me a link where you bought your tool?
@@fcpeuro what scan model can I get away with
What if you get a new caliper and brake motor should I be worried about these steps??
would this apply to a 2017 Passat as well?
Hi, Chris. It might be a similar process.
Best Video ever. Can you refer anyone near Los Angeles to replace my 2017 CC front and rear rotors and pads?
I know someone.
I am about to attempt to service my 2013 Passat b7's brakes. Are they similar enough that this is a useful guide? I know the CC is AWD, so I figured I should ask.
Yes, the process will be similar on your Passat.
Im wuite sure its 12.5mm bolts not 13, 13 works but ive fuckd up som bolts before by using the wrong wrench
Excellent video!
Thanks for the video. Quick question. Can you turn the vehicle off once the extraction takes place?
Yes, but the key will need to be in the accessory position.
Do you need the scan tool if you just repairing the rear break pads ?
You can manually retract the ebrake piston, by manually turning the bolt clockwise. All ebrake system work in the same manner. There are only 2 ways of doing this. 1. Is the scanner and 2. Is manually doing it.
What Vini said ^
what was the caliper tool you used to push the caliper back in place?
The scantool is made by iCarsoft, the hand tool is called a brake pad spreader, pretty standard
What’s the link. I need to order me one of this bad boys
What scan tool model is that..
Hi New Fut, that is an old Autel unit, unfortunately not sure of the particular model. We have a few options from them available on FCPEuro.com
both piston retract same time
14mm triple square? Is that the correct term because I need that part and I’m looking 1:47
I call it a spline bit.
I've also heard it referred to as a 12 pin 14mm torx
I suppose triple square is actually what it is. I’ve always thought the points looked a bit sharper than right angles. I must go look again. I’m not a square honest 😃
It is officially called 14 mm XZN.
Is there any reason why I shouldn't retract the rear brakes before lifting the car? Also, does releasing the brakes via the lever in the car only retract them partially?
Jakin, does your car have an electronic brake, or a manually operated handbrake? When you say, lever, that leads me to believe you have a manual parking brake, in which case, you don't need to electronically reset anything.
In the video you used a clamp to compress the piston (instead of winding it back) would this also be true for an Audi b8 A4 rear piston?
The rear caliper on a B8 A4 will require software to retract the piston.
Yes all of these EPB systems push straight back, no more turning the piston back in like in the old days before EPB systems
You can elect with proper training to open the EPB housing using the two torx head screws and retract the electric part manually, but spray first with penetrating lub like wd-40 first so as not to crack the housing, then on the caliper side using the appropriate T40 or T45 torx bit to turn the electric part clockwise until it stops. Then proceed with the rest of the job like you normally would. Peace
@@mynsxt6 6 years is not that old. lol and I know newer cars that still don't have an electric parking brake....
What other scan tools support the parking brake release function
Ross-Tech
www.ross-tech.com/
Obd11 , most autels.
great information,thank you for the video
You're welcome!
Autozone has a scan tool for this job thru the loan a tool. Its called brake reset tool you pick your auto manufacturer and it goes right to what you need. Part number 27302.
Johns... do you know if Is This tool works on 2012 Audi Q5 ?
@@sakitlikod1 I used it on a 13 vw cc. I think it would work work for your car as well.
I can't get this to release the brakes on my 07 Passat. Bought the VAG II Icarsoft. It reset trouble codes for engine light but not the brakes
Didnt think the VAG II could release the EPB. I purchaded the VAWS V2.
The Carrier bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced once removed
Does a 2006 VW Passat (B6) have this e-brake that needs resetting or is this only on later models?
No, only the later models have the electronic parking brake NMS chassis.
@@fcpeuro Ok. I will double check. Have to take the wheel off anyway ;) My Passat does have a button on the left of the dash that IS some kind of electrical brake. I hear a motor of some kind making noise when I push the button. I use it when parking on a hill or when I want the car to have the key in battery mode to power the 12V sockets but have the stupid daylight running lights turn off.
The B6 also has electronic brake, my car is a B6. May I add that this video is great and very informative
Yes B6 Passat has the electronic parking brake. He did the procedure wrong. The first thing he should have done was to retract the parking brake to the service position. The electronic parking brake should NEVER be operated while disassembled. It is also important to follow the procedure EXACTLY, without skipping any steps shown on the scan tool. The EPB is a temperamental bastard and will totally fuck up your day if you don't follow procedure.
Thanks, great video. I have a 2015 Passat SE with a manual parking brake. However there is a hill assist feature, does this mean it has a servo motor, and needs to be electronically released, like in the video?
You're welcome, Yashasswi! If you have a manual parking brake you should not have to electronically release anything.
No grease?
It's always a good idea to use some grease to prevent any squealing noises.
Do you remcommocd any obd ii to use? I only need it for this, and don’t want to spend a lot of money
No copper grease?
Okay so I did everything you said but now the dash is showing a parking break error and the botton is flashing, what should I do ??
Hi Towi, it's difficult to help without looking at the car. I would try running through the reset steps again. If that doesn't work you may need to bring it to your local service center to have it checked.
Thanks I appreciate the info!!
discard carrier?
When retracting or resetting does the engine need to be running or just the key pushed in half way?
Car would need to be in accessory mode.
Confused as hell... The bolts holding on the carrier seem to be Allen wrench type... At least on my 15 passat
What exactly are you confused about, we are happy to help!
where you find this scan tool
Hello, you can find it here -www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-diagnostic-scan-tool-icarsoft-vagii
@@fcpeuro links broken now.. is this is? www.fcpeuro.com/products/maxicheck-mx808-obdii-scanner-autel-mx808
Is the same procedure for 2012 Audi Q5 and?
about to tackle this job. knew it had those electronic calipers. i pass
How to compress the caliper or "Electronic parking brake retraction" is what most people are looking for. Here you are: ruclips.net/video/wAB43eO7wIs/видео.html
your suppose to retract the caliper first , with the computer , before taking the caliper off !!
Meant to easy diy what if folk don't have this fancy box of tricks, you're buggered..
But I could just remove the ebrake motor and do it manually right?....I will understand if you don't want to be a advocate for not following protocol.
I commented early.... you did answer the question.
That can make the e-brake system unhappy, which can lead to super annoying fault conditions. Don't ask me how I know.
@@wesleyhurd3574 I'm going to buy the OBD11 because it has a ebrake feature in it.
Lenwood Cruze Which OBD2 did you get???
@@edsam0926 I didn't get it yet but will.....gonna buy it from Deutche Auto Parts...they seem to have the best deal....I already did the front brakes and the rears have alittle more life in them upon inspection.
Sorry man never used one of the computers,always did it by hand.......never had a problem.
The car is to low. But good joob.
use needle nose pliers ?? did you ever know that the proper tool is a 15mm open ended spanner instead of needle nose plier.
why change rotor?
Rotors on these cars don't have much extra material on them. They don't typically get turned on a brake lathe because the rotor would end up being too thin. I remember hearing a recommendation to change the rotors every other time the pads are changed.
ok , ididnt knew that
3:37 You have to be kidding me! Those pads do NOT need to be changed! GTFO
Yeah Boiii
If the rotor has to be replaced so does the pads. Most likely the rotor was warped so the pads were going to mess the rotor again.
Saw the same thing as he chucked them into the green bin. Unless that rotor was really worn or warped, I would’ve cleaned/lubed stuff and put it back together. Love FCP though and their great vids.
dude that new rotor was clean, until you put your gloves all over them
Volkswagens are a pain
Ariel Ruiz no they suck I’m in the middle of a brake job and now I find out i need a scan tool to release the brakes WTF
Not sure if you know this or not but every new car being made now has this stupid EPB brake, not just Volkswagen.
this video made my car not work