Ladies and Gents - you need a SIZE 7 (7mm) ALLEN KEY to remove the guide pins from the front calipers before you can remove the caliper. He forgot to include this in the video. Also... read the comments about the other steps he forgot to include in the video such as cleaning the wheel hub and greasing the hub and pads etc.
sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Soren Landon Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
To the best of my understanding through research, these are the torque specs and part numbers of the caliper bolts, which you are encouraged to replace, especially the guide bolts. Front caliper mount bolt (190 Nm torque) (part N90948802) Front caliper guide bolt (30 Nm torque) (part H5025W) Rear caliper mount bolt (90 Nm torque + 90 degrees) (part N91168901) Rear caliper guide bolt (35 Nm torque) (part 14130)
Always clean the hub with a wire brush when you remove the old rotor. You can even go a step further by adding a little bit of anti seize as well. But at the very least, make sure you clean off some of the surface rust.
Mentioned tightening the set screw hand tight but never torqued it in the video after. Still, good info and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the time spent with helping people out!
Great video, but you need to include more details to provide a comprehensive video for the do-it-yourselfer. You did not show taking out the slide pins in the video. You did not mention any torques on the bolts (this is really important on brake components where safety is paramount). You did not clean off the hub. The slightest amount of debris on the hub can cause runout in the rotor at the the outer diameter. I usually take a very light duty SS wire brush on a die grinder to remove all rust and ensure the hub has no debris (remember the difficulty you had removing the rotors? Think rust and corrosion left behind). I am not sure if you mentioned to kind of grease, but greases are not all compatible. You have transfer of grease to that brake pad surface you installed on the piston side. You should mention using brake cleaner to clean off all grease and oil after done. Details count here and we should strive to put all details in there such that not a single question remains unanswered, including the toque on the lug nuts. Once a person gets involved in such a repair, they cannot be stuck with questions. Please don't take offense to this critique. I am only trying to make better videographers of people. This stuff is great!!
I seen in the video you don’t have those sliding clips for brake pads but in the other video you installed them could that be my squealing? Or maybe cause I didn’t use textar lubricant and used cooper anti seize lubricant
I really do appreciate you doing this for us Excellent production, tips and tricks. FCP Euro is getting all my cash for auto maintenance parts Thank you!
I don't trust the pinch welds to put the jack stand under personally. The lower control arm has a much more stable & solid spot for the jack stand just behind the front wheel.
I have a 2013 Polo GTI 6R 1.4 and I have the same braking system, for some reason I don't have a brake pad wear sensor on the orginal OEM pads but the new ones I bought have sensors, there is also no connector wire on the car. I am pretty sure the Polo GTI comes with sensors as well. Can anyone help?
We always recommend changing your brake pads when you are changing your brake rotors or vice versa. It is good to replace both units so both wear evenly. If you were just to replace the rotors and re-use your old brake pads for example, this may cause the new rotor to wear unevenly thus prematurely wearing down your new part that you just ordered.
@@fcpeuro I really appreciate the feedback. especially with the viewership you have. I changed the fronts successfully, now it's on to the rear. You guys keep up the good work
So many important steps overlooked , there are more comprehensive videos which cover the failings highlighted below. Never tighten a locking wheel bolt to more than 40 Nm maximum, and use a quality anti-seize
That also...! Alternatively, you could crack open the bleeder screw... Isn't that a crucial step in the procedure of changing brake pads? I mean, wouldn't you risk damaging brake system not taking that measure? Pressure inside would be big enough to cause damage!?
Honestly, if you're looking for a how to video for this job, this ISNT it. seriously. This video could kill someone. and its been up 4 years. The ECS videos are much better. I didnt know "Cinch" was a torque spec.
FAIL!!! NEVER EVER pick up a car by the pinch welds. You just showed your lack of skill! Lazy and unskilled mechanics do this and this is what leads to rusted out rocker panels. I have been doing this since the mid 80's and call this out every time. I'm not in it to make friends, I am in for the customer's car.
Ladies and Gents - you need a SIZE 7 (7mm) ALLEN KEY to remove the guide pins from
the front calipers before you can remove the caliper. He forgot to include this in the video. Also... read the comments about the other steps he forgot to include in the video such as cleaning the wheel hub and greasing the hub and pads etc.
sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Ryland Reuben instablaster ;)
@Soren Landon Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Soren Landon it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account!
@Ryland Reuben You are welcome :)
To the best of my understanding through research, these are the torque specs and part numbers of the caliper bolts, which you are encouraged to replace, especially the guide bolts.
Front caliper mount bolt (190 Nm torque) (part N90948802)
Front caliper guide bolt (30 Nm torque) (part H5025W)
Rear caliper mount bolt (90 Nm torque + 90 degrees) (part N91168901)
Rear caliper guide bolt (35 Nm torque) (part 14130)
Anyone else notice they cut the part where they take the guide pins out?
They can't show the whole procedure for legal reasons.
Always clean the hub with a wire brush when you remove the old rotor. You can even go a step further by adding a little bit of anti seize as well.
But at the very least, make sure you clean off some of the surface rust.
those wheel studs are a great idea!
No, it's completely unnecessary. I jack the car up just enough where the wheel doesn't fall to the ground and I can pull it out easily.
Lol people are expecting a Haynes manual.
Awesome video, had more than enough detail amd information.
Mentioned tightening the set screw hand tight but never torqued it in the video after. Still, good info and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the time spent with helping people out!
I was waiting for him to tighten it but he never did lol
Thankyou, I was able to change the drivers and passenger side pads today
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Great video, but you need to include more details to provide a comprehensive video for the do-it-yourselfer. You did not show taking out the slide pins in the video. You did not mention any torques on the bolts (this is really important on brake components where safety is paramount). You did not clean off the hub. The slightest amount of debris on the hub can cause runout in the rotor at the the outer diameter. I usually take a very light duty SS wire brush on a die grinder to remove all rust and ensure the hub has no debris (remember the difficulty you had removing the rotors? Think rust and corrosion left behind). I am not sure if you mentioned to kind of grease, but greases are not all compatible. You have transfer of grease to that brake pad surface you installed on the piston side. You should mention using brake cleaner to clean off all grease and oil after done. Details count here and we should strive to put all details in there such that not a single question remains unanswered, including the toque on the lug nuts. Once a person gets involved in such a repair, they cannot be stuck with questions. Please don't take offense to this critique. I am only trying to make better videographers of people. This stuff is great!!
Thanks, Michael! Those are all great points! We are constantly working on improving the quality of our DIY's. Stay tuned for more!
Torque specs for all the bolts would be helpful.
I seen in the video you don’t have those sliding clips for brake pads but in the other video you installed them could that be my squealing? Or maybe cause I didn’t use textar lubricant and used cooper anti seize lubricant
Great video!
Torque specs ???
I really do appreciate you doing this for us Excellent production, tips and tricks. FCP Euro is getting all my cash for auto maintenance parts Thank you!
what happened to the 2 pin guides disassembly??
Edit: Nevermind it was mentioned at the end when after lubricating it. Good video! Please post more!
Glad you like the video!
I don't trust the pinch welds to put the jack stand under personally. The lower control arm has a much more stable & solid spot for the jack stand just behind the front wheel.
Nice impact on that wheel lock key, enjoy that stripped locking wheel bolt like I did after a shop did the same thing. Strips the key and the bolt👌🏻
What ft pounds do you torque the caliper bracket bolts
I have a 2013 Polo GTI 6R 1.4 and I have the same braking system, for some reason I don't have a brake pad wear sensor on the orginal OEM pads but the new ones I bought have sensors, there is also no connector wire on the car. I am pretty sure the Polo GTI comes with sensors as well. Can anyone help?
3:58 is the brake pad sensor only on that one hub? Not the other pads around the car?
correct
I have 80,000 km on my 5 spd 2010 Golf and will be replacing all rotors and pads front and rear.
We always recommend changing your brake pads when you are changing your brake rotors or vice versa. It is good to replace both units so both wear evenly. If you were just to replace the rotors and re-use your old brake pads for example, this may cause the new rotor to wear unevenly thus prematurely wearing down your new part that you just ordered.
Tried doing my rears, cannot undo the triple square. Try doing the fronts there is no tab on the sensor 😞
Torque/ NM?
Hi Blatt, for the MK6 you will want 122nm for the lug bolts, 189nm for carrier bolts, and 30nm for the guide pins.
This applicable for the Jetta as well?
Hi NGM, some of the parts are going to be different but the process is basically the same.
@@fcpeuro I really appreciate the feedback. especially with the viewership you have. I changed the fronts successfully, now it's on to the rear. You guys keep up the good work
forgot to mention cleaning up the hub before mounting the rotor
Good video , BUT WHY THE FREAKING MUSIC .
8:19 "He did what in his cup!?"
for the inside pad, can I use a pad that does not have a clip? (the clip that goes inside the caliper piston)
So easy
So many important steps overlooked , there are more comprehensive videos which cover the failings highlighted below.
Never tighten a locking wheel bolt to more than 40 Nm maximum, and use a quality anti-seize
We understand that some broke boys might be watching so we won't use our extensive tools 😂😂
great video but this music makes me want to die
Wtf makes the caliper come free? Just that spring clip?
You forgot to open your brake fluid cap
That also...!
Alternatively, you could crack open the bleeder screw...
Isn't that a crucial step in the procedure of changing brake pads?
I mean, wouldn't you risk damaging brake system not taking that measure?
Pressure inside would be big enough to cause damage!?
"now that you have the bolts out"
Wait what bolts?
Just looking at the one jack stand hold the front makes me nervous.
Those Zimmerman Brake Discs are painted! He never cleaned the paint off! MAKE SURE YOU DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wtf i cant even get the sensor sperated.
Did he really say M K 6
no no no...he said "emmmm kay six" 😂
Ive heard MAKE 6!
I don’t understand why people don’t say Mark
you forgot the eye protection
Honestly, if you're looking for a how to video for this job, this ISNT it. seriously. This video could kill someone. and its been up 4 years. The ECS videos are much better. I didnt know "Cinch" was a torque spec.
Take this down.
NO TORQUEING???
NO CLEANUP
IF PEOPLE FOLLOW THIS GUIDE THEY WILL SURELY DIE IN AN ACCIDENT
FAIL!!! NEVER EVER pick up a car by the pinch welds. You just showed your lack of skill! Lazy and unskilled mechanics do this and this is what leads to rusted out rocker panels. I have been doing this since the mid 80's and call this out every time. I'm not in it to make friends, I am in for the customer's car.