It’s absolutely insane that you made this video when I was 8 years old and now it’s helping me with my corvette. Thanks a million for getting me into cars and for all your great videos that have helped me.
This is hands down the best video on YT explaining how to replace wires and plugs on a C4. I really liked how you anticipated questions and showed the "hard parts" without wasting time showing everything. Yes, this video is 10 years old and you have likely moved on. Oh, and at the end showing the graphic was another great bonus.
I purchased a Snap-On magnetic spark plug socket set (PN 206SPKPLGMAG) a while back and it proved invaluable for changing the plugs on my '94 C4. It made the job so quick and easy. Make sure to first blow out the area with compressed air BEFORE removing any spark plugs. If you do not own an air compressor at home, at least a leaf blower will suffice. Anything to blow out any foreign material that could potentially fall into your cylinders.
Thanks so much. 10 years later still a great video. Couldn't find anything this detailed on this engine, and just picked up a '95 z28 camaro. thank you once again.
What helped me was to remove the tensioner and a pulley. Both in fact needed to be replaced. With them out of the way I could easily see the driver side Optispark plug wire connections. Thanks again for your encouragement.
I'm in the middle of doing this job at the moment. Just finished the passenger side. The plugs I took out were burned down to the electrodes; I guess the PO didn't relish tackling this job. Tough but doable. Can't wait to drive my car with fresh plugs! (My other car is a 1980 MGB. Changing the plugs on that is a joy.)
Probably the best video on RUclips about this topic. Maybe why the guy has almost 9 million subscribers😯 A lot of the other videos are a joke compared to this!👍
I just did this job myself. Removing the belt tensioner pulley itself was a huge help as it gave much more room to get your hand at the optispark on the driver's side.
Chris Fix.....best how to car vids out there. I have a 94 C4 and your Corvette segments have been a great help. Can you do a video on replacing weatherstripping on the doors? The inner door panel needs good weatherstrip to seat right.
Nice video. A little helpful idea is to use a fine point Sharpie to mark the boots or wire with the correct number as well. If you want to get fancy, there are marking bands, rings, and labels available from MSD, Accel, and many other sources.
Update, I figured a simple hack to get all the Driver's Side boots on the Optispark. Just unbolt the Tensioner Pulley and remove it, (16 mm bolt) this gives you much more room and leverage to get the boots on #1, #7, #3 and #5. I found that a 16 mm box wrench works best to get the Tensioner bolt off, as I didn't have enough clearance between the frame member and the bolt to get a ratchet on it. Also, another hack for installing the #8 plug: Slip the plug into a magnetic 5/8" socket, face forward, lean over the right front tire and with your left hand, reach back with the socket and plug with your wrist turned outwards. This worked the first time I tried it after numerous failed attempts. (and choice swear words.)
I loved doing plugs on my 96 LT1. I purchased a 3/8s , 90 degree ratchet from Mid America made to help with changing the plugs. It sits in my tool box and I haven't used it since 2006. My 91 ZR1 is easier to change the wires and super easy to do just plugs. Being that the LT5 is a hemi the plugs sit right on top of each cylinder. It's not that hard to pull the plenum to change out coils and wires.
Thx replaced all this yesterday and now my engine is running new. Just a word of advice. My 92 LT1 looks a little different in the ASR area. When I removed it I broke a small vacuumed line under it so might wanna warn them of that. It was a real easy fix though.
I realize this was one of your first videos but when applying anything on spark plugs, you don't need to gunk it on. A few small dabs of whatever product you want to use, then roll your finger or Qtip around the threads. To much of that anti seize globbed on can make it's way to the plug electrode and ground out the plug. To much of that silicone globs up the connections, causes mis fires.
Can't imagine a header swap on an LT1 Vette because it's so damn tight! I've owned a lot of performance vehicles in my 50 year span on this planet and my 95' Vette tops it...
Thanks for the quick reply, it is only the main display (speedo, fuel into etc) nothing else is affected. I am hoping it is something simple like earthing or poor connection, tapping the screen as I say sometimes clears it, as does hitting a bump in the road, will have a go on the forum as you suggest.
Chris you are awesome, I need to pull out spark plug 1 to get to TDC to put the harmonic dampner back on, you turn a nightmare into a a scary thought. I had to replace the new distributor i put in 8 months ago and put the old one back in, which only needed a cap n roptopr rep[lace
tackled this today... Thanks for the video ChrisFIx!.. Not sure if mentiond yet but if you go ahead and remove the tensioner 1( 14 mm bolt) makes things nearly as easy as passenger side;)
great video.. very clear. Haven't started yet but doing my Power Steering pump and water pump at the same time so I should have even more room. Still haven't actually seen my Opti yet...must be under there somewhere. Bad place to put it for such routine maintenance.
Not really. They sell the larger diameter ones, but they wont fit very easily. Plus, the resistance of the wire is different, and since the Vette has a fiberglass firewall, you could get interference with your radio. Stock wires are the way to go. Corvette did an awesome job designing this car so...
Please Chris! make a video on how to change the Optispark on the LT1. They eventually all go bad on every LT1. I have a 1994 Camaro Z/28 and I’m thinking of changing it in case one day it just ceases to work.
JDPINTERNATIONAL That would be a mistake, if your optispark is working don’t change it, you could install a new one and have it go bad, chances are new could go bad sooner than the one you have now that’s working ,very common. As far as an opti goes if it ain’t broke don’t fix it
@@huskybrushape Before thinking the optispark is the issue with your car problem, check the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the Ignition Coil located on the upper right front of the motor. I went through this nightmare of being told by 3 different professional dealers that the optispark needed replacing on my '95? GM dealers did not want to do the job because no GM part was available anymore and the record of after-market optisparks had very high failure rates. There was nothing wrong with my optispark, the ICM was the issue. If replacing the ICM, make sure to find a GM part, as I went through two after-market parts from O'Reilys that failed. NOW, if replacing an optispark, go to Petris Enterprises, Scottsboro, Alabama. They make a great optispark that I installed thru all of this nonsense of not checking the ICM first. If you have to replace the optispark, call Petris...
This is tricky. Does anything else go crazy (Climate control, information center above the climate control, radio, etc)? Might want to ask the people on the corvetteforum. They are helpful for specific stuff like this.
Thanks for this video, Chris. You are always clear and precise. You might freshen up on the correct names of some of the tools you are using so you don't end up calling a socket a ratchet, etc... but great video !
ChrisFix, your C4 is the only other one online I can find that only has 3 cables going to the ASR box instead of 4 that have a Transmission Throttle Cable as well. Why do ours only have 3 and how do I adjust the slider on the throttle cable to the ASR box to it's proper position as in calibrate it.
Just a little tip for number 8 spark plug I used a vacuum hose at the tip of the spark plug lined it up in the hole and I started twisting the vacuum hose to get it started or till it Bottomed out then I use the ratchet to tighten it down it can save a whole lot of time you're welcome just give me a thumbs up
Hey man! Great video. Truly helpful. It was able to concur the driver side with ease by accessing the option spark from underneath the car. After all, I’m experiencing some issues. The engine stalls & stops after starting & going into gear. Trying to diagnose it myself before handing it over to pros. I came across a 9th spark plug wire below the throttle body. I was curious why there were ten wires but only eight plugs. But now I see there is a 9th to replace but not a 10th. Do you have an idea or is that in fact an “extra?”
Thanks a lot! I believe the 2 extra wires are connected to the coil terminal and electrical harness, but it might be different depending on the exact configuration!
Hey. So I replaced the 9th wire which connected to the 9th port on the optispark looked around but can’t find where the 10th wire would go. Can you recall for sure that it in fact takes 10 wires? My car was stalling immediately after going into gear but now that I’ve changed that 9th wire, it hasn’t stalled or given me any issues since. Lol I’d really like to be done with this task
Chris, I wish you lived next door to me, my 95 Vette and I would have a sense of inner peace knowing you were there to help. Ever think about moving to San Diego? Ol buddy ol pal? 😁
Chris, Great video. I have a '94 Corvette and I am getting all the parts together to do the wires and plugs along with the Optispark and the waterpump, coil and ICM. My question is as an update to this older video.... What are your thoughts on using anti-sieze on spark plug threads now that they are applying special platings to the threads. I know most plug manufacturers are now saying DO NOT use anti-sieze on the plated plugs. I plan on using NGK TR55-IX plugs in my Vette. NGK has a tech bulletin out advising NOT to use anti-sieze. Thanks again. Great videos on the Vette and all your others. BTW, do you still own that Red '96 Vette that was in your waterpump replace video ?
On my 92 there was a second metal pipe leading from somewheres. It was preventing me from pulling the wires across the pulleys like you did. However, completely removing the belt tensioner was the answer. Once it was out of the way you had a clear shot of the optispark and could pull the wires straight through. Also the heat protection looks very pathetic, thin plastic that tightly wraps around the cord. I will be replacing that with something more effective.
Chris you and I have similar tastes in cars as I have a 94 vette and a 2002 Tbird and Mustang. Do you know anywhere to get new parts for the vette? I’m losing capabilities in mine such as ABS, antislip, cruise control, ac controls, and tire pressure sensors due to lack of parts. My mechanic, the most knowledgeable in my area won’t put used parts on my car.
Chris: Great video, very helpful But....how did you get the Driver's Side plug boots on the Optispark? I managed to get #1, #7 and #3 on without too much cursing, but #5 (Top receptacle) is a bear. I cant figure out how to get it on. Any advice?
Thanks. I need help with the frame rail Ground strap attaching point. It is supposed to go somewhere on the engine. Mine appears to be held on with a self tapping screw attached to the catalytic converter bracket. Where is the correct attaching point ?
Chrisfix I did all the plugs and the passenger wires. But for the life of me I can't get the wires to come out of the opti spark from the driver side. Do you know of a way to get them unstuck? Thanks Great video helped me a lot. It's a 1996 corvette
Chris I have a 94 Corvette LT1 and every time their is dew or rain it will turn over but not start...it makes a rump noise and shakes like it is flooded. Raise the hood and let it get sun for 10-15 minutes and it starts right up ...Driving me nuts trying to find the problem..Tried LPS water dispersment on all electrical plugs and wires..still does same thing...
Colt Brinlee It is the optispark probably getting moisture in it if I had to guess. It could be something else but if I had to guess I would say OPTI because your 94 did not have the vented and more water proof one unfortunately.
+Colt Brinlee --Its the optispark for sure. had the same thing. Its 12 bolts in total to get to it and get it off buts its a mother. You can save money buying it on line instead of the auto parts store.
GM no longer makes a factory replacement optispark, they have been gone from dealer and parts store shelves for years. Aftermarket opti's are poor quality and they can fail in a very short time. Some have been put in and found to be bad from the get go. Replacing an opti and having it go bad in a week or a month is not uncommon.
The pre-1995 Optispark distributor had this problem where moisture could gather inside the distributor and cause starting issues during high humidity or rain. For the 1995 model year GM upgraded the distributor with vacuum vents to solve this problem. Many of the OEM and aftermarket replacement distributors will have these vents, so if you replace the distributor with one of those updated versions it should solve the problem.
I changed the plugs and wires on my car like 3 months ago. I didn't route them correctly and two of them rub on metal pieces. Saw them arcing last night. Also don't have the wire heat shields. Chris, do you think I should buy the wire heat shields?
Brandon Herrera If you route them correctly you dont need heat shields. Even with the heat shields, if they are constantly touching a hot engine piece, they will eventually burn.
Hey Chris, I had my clutch replaced and my 92 base model vette now keeps throwing ASR & ABS messages. In first gear at start up, it pulls back with humming behind me. Can you give any advice? Thanks!
I tried to get the wire off of my #7 spark plug, I have a 94 buick roadmaster so it has the LT1, and it would not come off, it would rotate but I could not get the thing to pop off. Any tricks to help get it off?? Thanks Chris! To add; my exhaust manifold bolt broke off on the back cylinder, common, so I have to take the manifold off at some point anyway, I think I need to do that to change the wire anyway because of the routing. I would still like to put a new plug in the thing!
melonas22 Use a pliers to help grab it or try wiggling it side to side to try to get air in there so there isnt a vacuum when you are pulling it out. Good luck!
First thing I did when I bought my Vette several years ago was replace the plugs and wires. Took me two days and a lot of swearing. I dropped the socket numerous times on number eight, and getting to the opti on the drivers side was unbearable. Last month I replaced my water pump, and I could clearly see the drivers side of the opti. It might be a little more work removing the water pump to do the plug wires, but there would be a lot less swearing envolved going this rout in my opinion. Besides, the Lt1 can always use a fresh water pump ever now and then.....😉
At about 100k miles you should change them. If you want to check you can test resistance with a multimeter. I dont know the acceptable range for the wires but you can google that. You can also spray the wires with a fine mist of water with a spray bottle in the pitch black. If you see sparks (due to arching) then it is time to replace your wires. This was the case for this Vette!
Alright, thank you. I'll try that test. I bought mine at 160,000 (still about that) and want to change the plugs. It is slow to start and starts rough when it is at full running temperature only, so I don't know if this will help. I imagine new plugs won't hurt anyway, and I guess I should just do the wires too since I have a good instruction to follow!
I would def replace the wires too. Give the spray-bottle trick a try and let me know if you see sparks! If it is still running rough, let me know and we can try to diagnose it over youtube. Might be fuel pressure related or opti-spark related.
I'll take your advice, and I'll update you in a few weeks once I get the wires shipped in and am home to do the job. I'm going to go ahead and get battery cables too. Is there anything else electrical I should just go ahead and replace while I am putting in an order?
What's odd is that it only is rough to start when the engine temp is above 195-200. If it has time to cool below that, it usually starts fine. Always starts strong when cold.
Good video, but I cringe when I see dialectric grease placed on connections. It should be used on the boots...not on the metal terminals. It is non-conductive, just like the boot, and prevents arcing.
Incorrect. Dielectric grease has little to no impact on conductivity. Dielectric grease is used to minimize micro-corrosion of the electrical contact surfaces. You should clean the contact surfaces (could be as simple as cleaning with a pencil eraser) and then apply a dab of dielectric grease to inhibit corrosion of the contact surfaces you just cleaned.
Good vid, I have a 95 z/28 with the same engine but I think my opti-spark unit went and that's going to be a pain to replace, damned gm thinking that they had a good idea by putting "rotor" on the front of the engine
R Jones Thanks man. If you need to get to the opti, I dont have a specific video on how to replace it, but I have a waterpump video that shows all the steps to get the water pump off (which you will need to do to get to the opti. How To Water Pump Replacement LT1
AC Delco for plugs and wires. They have a certain resistance (which the Vette is tuned to) so it doesnt cause interference with the electronics because the Vette has a fiberglass firewall.
It’s absolutely insane that you made this video when I was 8 years old and now it’s helping me with my corvette. Thanks a million for getting me into cars and for all your great videos that have helped me.
This is hands down the best video on YT explaining how to replace wires and plugs on a C4. I really liked how you anticipated questions and showed the "hard parts" without wasting time showing everything. Yes, this video is 10 years old and you have likely moved on. Oh, and at the end showing the graphic was another great bonus.
I'm glad the video is still helpful all these years later! Thanks!
Yes! And one other thing. Do you have a video series only on the C4? If so, can you link me to them? Thanks.
@@moodberryfr @crisfix could you make a playlist wit all ur old c4 videos? Theyre so helpful!
Sweet! That was the whole idea of the video! To allow fellow Vette owners to see what they need to do to get the job done!
I purchased a Snap-On magnetic spark plug socket set (PN 206SPKPLGMAG) a while back and it proved invaluable for changing the plugs on my '94 C4. It made the job so quick and easy. Make sure to first blow out the area with compressed air BEFORE removing any spark plugs. If you do not own an air compressor at home, at least a leaf blower will suffice. Anything to blow out any foreign material that could potentially fall into your cylinders.
I owe you a beer. Thanks. All your Corvette videos are priceless.
Just did a 93 Vette with the help of this video. You rock Chrisfix. Always good informative videos.
hahaha, thanks man! Put them to good use! That's why I made them, to help others!!! Glad it worked for ya!
Thanks so much. 10 years later still a great video. Couldn't find anything this detailed on this engine, and just picked up a '95 z28 camaro. thank you once again.
I took my time today. I finished the passenger side. Tomorrow I’ll tackle the driver side. Thanks a bunch for great suggestions that do work.
What helped me was to remove the tensioner and a pulley. Both in fact needed to be replaced. With them out of the way I could easily see the driver side Optispark plug wire connections. Thanks again for your encouragement.
Really helpful, thanks for these vids. Just got my 92 on Saturday after 15 years with a C3. Awesome car. UK Vette owner!
Really
Hoe much did u pay for yours
I'm in the middle of doing this job at the moment. Just finished the passenger side. The plugs I took out were burned down to the electrodes; I guess the PO didn't relish tackling this job. Tough but doable. Can't wait to drive my car with fresh plugs! (My other car is a 1980 MGB. Changing the plugs on that is a joy.)
I change the spark plugs in my grandpa’s 1941 Studebaker once. I’ve learned a lot about fixing cars from you keep it up Chris.
You improved the quality drastically! I watch every seconds you share.
Probably the best video on RUclips about this topic. Maybe why the guy has almost 9 million subscribers😯
A lot of the other videos are a joke compared to this!👍
I successfully changed the spark plugs in my '94 this weekend. This video was invaluable help!
AWESOME!!!! I am glad the video was helpful and you change your plugs!!!
That #8 plug was like wrestling a bear,, Thanks for all the C4 videos.
+Vetteboy- 53 Haha, yea it is tight in there. No problem!
Thanks man! Exactly, it's so rewarding fixing your own car!
I just did this job myself. Removing the belt tensioner pulley itself was a huge help as it gave much more room to get your hand at the optispark on the driver's side.
Glad to help man! That is why I make these how to videos!!! It is such an easy job, but also such a frustrating one!
Chris Fix.....best how to car vids out there. I have a 94 C4 and your Corvette segments have been a great help. Can you do a video on replacing weatherstripping on the doors? The inner door panel needs good weatherstrip to seat right.
Nice video. A little helpful idea is to use a fine point Sharpie to mark the boots or wire with the correct number as well. If you want to get fancy, there are marking bands, rings, and labels available from MSD, Accel, and many other sources.
Dude...Your the man! Thanks so much. I have a 96 Vette and was having the hardest time with the wires on the driver's side.
Update, I figured a simple hack to get all the Driver's Side boots on the Optispark. Just unbolt the Tensioner Pulley and remove it, (16 mm bolt) this gives you much more room and leverage to get the boots on #1, #7, #3 and #5. I found that a 16 mm box wrench works best to get the Tensioner bolt off, as I didn't have enough clearance between the frame member and the bolt to get a ratchet on it.
Also, another hack for installing the #8 plug: Slip the plug into a magnetic 5/8" socket, face forward, lean over the right front tire and with your left hand, reach back with the socket and plug with your wrist turned outwards. This worked the first time I tried it after numerous failed attempts. (and choice swear words.)
Thanks and no problem... This was the hardest video I ever made... so hard to explain what to do and to get into the tight spaces with the camera!
Thanks Chris. Good content and the diagram at the end is very useful. Firing order is a bit important.
I loved doing plugs on my 96 LT1. I purchased a 3/8s , 90 degree ratchet from Mid America made to help with changing the plugs. It sits in my tool box and I haven't used it since 2006.
My 91 ZR1 is easier to change the wires and super easy to do just plugs. Being that the LT5 is a hemi the plugs sit right on top of each cylinder. It's not that hard to pull the plenum to change out coils and wires.
Thx replaced all this yesterday and now my engine is running new. Just a word of advice. My 92 LT1 looks a little different in the ASR area. When I removed it I broke a small vacuumed line under it so might wanna warn them of that. It was a real easy fix though.
No problem! Hope it helped out!
Wow, what a mission, well done Chris, thanks for the excellent video.
It's not too bad. Especially since it wears out only once every 15yrs. Worth the coolness of hide-a-ways!
No prob! Glad to help!
I realize this was one of your first videos but when applying anything on spark plugs, you don't need to gunk it on. A few small dabs of whatever product you want to use, then roll your finger or Qtip around the threads. To much of that anti seize globbed on can make it's way to the plug electrode and ground out the plug. To much of that silicone globs up the connections, causes mis fires.
Well done. Thanks. The fun in the hobby is all about finding creative solutions. Not once are you affraid of the next challenge. Keep it up.
No prob! Glad they are helpful! I make more as I fix things lol.
Great video, I never would have guessed that panel pops out on the driver side wheel well.
This was before you had a good tool collection. You’ve come along way.
You're awesome man. Third time you've saved my butt with a C4 guide.
I was 7 when this video came out now it’s helping me with my vette😂
Can't imagine a header swap on an LT1 Vette because it's so damn tight! I've owned a lot of performance vehicles in my 50 year span on this planet and my 95' Vette tops it...
Corvette Coupe Yea, it is a little tight. Not too bad, but not as open and easy as it should be! The C4 is a great car!
Thanks for the quick reply, it is only the main display (speedo, fuel into etc) nothing else is affected. I am hoping it is something simple like earthing or poor connection, tapping the screen as I say sometimes clears it, as does hitting a bump in the road, will have a go on the forum as you suggest.
Chris you are awesome, I need to pull out spark plug 1 to get to TDC to put the harmonic dampner back on, you turn a nightmare into a a scary thought. I had to replace the new distributor i put in 8 months ago and put the old one back in, which only needed a cap n roptopr rep[lace
very helpful, I have a 94 also that i will be doing come spring, your tips will make the job go alot smoother for sure
Great! Glad the video helped!
tackled this today... Thanks for the video ChrisFIx!.. Not sure if mentiond yet but if you go ahead and remove the tensioner 1( 14 mm bolt) makes things nearly as easy as passenger side;)
+Ohman Bret bmods Awesome! Glad the video was helpful and thanks for the tip!
Where do the two wires go that have straight ends? The six others have angled boots for the spark plugs. Thanks for great videos
great video.. very clear. Haven't started yet but doing my Power Steering pump and water pump at the same time so I should have even more room. Still haven't actually seen my Opti yet...must be under there somewhere. Bad place to put it for such routine maintenance.
Ty Tojo Juggling Thanks man! The opti is hiding under and below the water pump.
Not really. They sell the larger diameter ones, but they wont fit very easily. Plus, the resistance of the wire is different, and since the Vette has a fiberglass firewall, you could get interference with your radio. Stock wires are the way to go. Corvette did an awesome job designing this car so...
Yea, it is the first time you do it. The second time it isnt as bad!
Chris you are the man hop all the best for you
Nice thing about using a spark plug socket. Not only does the rubber protect the ceramic, it also aids in gripping the spark plug for easy removal.
to be correct i meant to say "aides" in gripping the spark plug.
Dano C. II
Chris i have been watching your videos for years now enjoying all of them 📹 that opti spark location bad design by GM 💧 water pump right over it
I am training a snake to help me to reach those tight place
lol
cool to see chris reply to comments on his 6 year old vid
I'd almost say it'd be faster to pull the fucking motor
Will you rent him out 🙏 plz
Helped me alot on my 96, thanks.
was just bouta run this for my LT4 96, so its still all tha same?
@getoffmydick777 Yeah, pretty sure
woooow good job man the best .its the first time i see how to do the driver side
a v12 would be so much fun :o
Well the Corvette team from Chevy did an awesome job. LOL
Helped a bunch, thanks for sharing Chris.....
Great! Glad the video was helpful!
Outstanding vid sir..
Such a big help mate. Thank you
Awesome video need to more of the corvette!😃
Please Chris! make a video on how to change the Optispark on the LT1. They eventually all go bad on every LT1. I have a 1994 Camaro Z/28 and I’m thinking of changing it in case one day it just ceases to work.
JDPINTERNATIONAL That would be a mistake, if your optispark is working don’t change it, you could install a new one and have it go bad, chances are new could go bad sooner than the one you have now that’s working ,very common. As far as an opti goes if it ain’t broke don’t fix it
@@huskybrushape Before thinking the optispark is the issue with your car problem, check the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the Ignition Coil located on the upper right front of the motor. I went through this nightmare of being told by 3 different professional dealers that the optispark needed replacing on my '95? GM dealers did not want to do the job because no GM part was available anymore and the record of after-market optisparks had very high failure rates. There was nothing wrong with my optispark, the ICM was the issue. If replacing the ICM, make sure to find a GM part, as I went through two after-market parts from O'Reilys that failed. NOW, if replacing an optispark, go to Petris Enterprises, Scottsboro, Alabama. They make a great optispark that I installed thru all of this nonsense of not checking the ICM first. If you have to replace the optispark, call Petris...
This is tricky. Does anything else go crazy (Climate control, information center above the climate control, radio, etc)? Might want to ask the people on the corvetteforum. They are helpful for specific stuff like this.
Thanks for this video, Chris. You are always clear and precise. You might freshen up on the correct names of some of the tools you are using so you don't end up calling a socket a ratchet, etc... but great video !
This is an old video (one of my first) so things are a little different with the new ones ;)
Chris why do you sound like it's a burden in these old videos in the new ones you sound extremely enthusiastic
$$$
Where did you order the plugs from? I’m interested because you mentioned they are individually numbered. Thank you
ChrisFix, your C4 is the only other one online I can find that only has 3 cables going to the ASR box instead of 4 that have a Transmission Throttle Cable as well. Why do ours only have 3 and how do I adjust the slider on the throttle cable to the ASR box to it's proper position as in calibrate it.
Nice, maybe it just got vibrated off the connection to the dash and you just need to push the connection back in...
Just a little tip for number 8 spark plug I used a vacuum hose at the tip of the spark plug lined it up in the hole and I started twisting the vacuum hose to get it started or till it Bottomed out then I use the ratchet to tighten it down it can save a whole lot of time you're welcome just give me a thumbs up
Excellent job. :-) Thank you for taking the time & trouble to video this.
Hey man! Great video. Truly helpful. It was able to concur the driver side with ease by accessing the option spark from underneath the car. After all, I’m experiencing some issues. The engine stalls & stops after starting & going into gear. Trying to diagnose it myself before handing it over to pros. I came across a 9th spark plug wire below the throttle body. I was curious why there were ten wires but only eight plugs. But now I see there is a 9th to replace but not a 10th. Do you have an idea or is that in fact an “extra?”
Thanks a lot! I believe the 2 extra wires are connected to the coil terminal and electrical harness, but it might be different depending on the exact configuration!
Hey. So I replaced the 9th wire which connected to the 9th port on the optispark looked around but can’t find where the 10th wire would go. Can you recall for sure that it in fact takes 10 wires? My car was stalling immediately after going into gear but now that I’ve changed that 9th wire, it hasn’t stalled or given me any issues since. Lol I’d really like to be done with this task
Chris, I wish you lived next door to me, my 95 Vette and I would have a sense of inner peace knowing you were there to help. Ever think about moving to San Diego? Ol buddy ol pal? 😁
Chris, Great video. I have a '94 Corvette and I am getting all the parts together to do the wires and plugs along with the Optispark and the waterpump, coil and ICM. My question is as an update to this older video.... What are your thoughts on using anti-sieze on spark plug threads now that they are applying special platings to the threads. I know most plug manufacturers are now saying DO NOT use anti-sieze on the plated plugs. I plan on using NGK TR55-IX plugs in my Vette. NGK has a tech bulletin out advising NOT to use anti-sieze. Thanks again. Great videos on the Vette and all your others. BTW, do you still own that Red '96 Vette that was in your waterpump replace video ?
On my 92 there was a second metal pipe leading from somewheres. It was preventing me from pulling the wires across the pulleys like you did. However, completely removing the belt tensioner was the answer. Once it was out of the way you had a clear shot of the optispark and could pull the wires straight through. Also the heat protection looks very pathetic, thin plastic that tightly wraps around the cord. I will be replacing that with something more effective.
Interesting, thanks for sharing!
That plastic on the wires isn't really a heat protection, more likely to prevent chafing. I'm surprised Chris didn't mention that to you.
Hey Chris I wanted to know if you can post something (vid or just text) on how to test or rule out a problem with the optispark on a C4 LT1. Thanks!
What are your symptoms? Misfiring is the most common issue.
What is the correct opinion on cleaning spark plugs that were running on rich mixture? should it be done or would it ruin anything?
Chris you and I have similar tastes in cars as I have a 94 vette and a 2002 Tbird and Mustang. Do you know anywhere to get new parts for the vette? I’m losing capabilities in mine such as ABS, antislip, cruise control, ac controls, and tire pressure sensors due to lack of parts. My mechanic, the most knowledgeable in my area won’t put used parts on my car.
Merci du français ! Thanks for this vidéo thatt helps me alot. Mickael from France
I am glad the video was helpful!
Very helpful, thanks
Taking off the belt tensioner gives plenty of access to the opti wires on drivers side !
Hey Chris, what size wires did you use on your Vette? My car has 7mm. I was thinking about getting 8mm. But they might not fit on the wire holder.
Chris: Great video, very helpful But....how did you get the Driver's Side plug boots on the Optispark? I managed to get #1, #7 and #3 on without too much cursing, but #5 (Top receptacle) is a bear. I cant figure out how to get it on. Any advice?
Thanks. I need help with the frame rail
Ground strap attaching point. It is supposed to go somewhere on the engine. Mine appears to be held on with a self tapping screw attached to the catalytic converter bracket.
Where is the correct attaching point ?
Chrisfix
I did all the plugs and the passenger wires. But for the life of me I can't get the wires to come out of the opti spark from the driver side. Do you know of a way to get them unstuck?
Thanks
Great video helped me a lot.
It's a 1996 corvette
tomas puigjane If you can get a thin crow bar or something similar to pry the plugs off, that might help.
Is that grease the same as the one used in polyurethane suspension bushings?
+Oscar De la Serna yes, silicone grease.
Love it
To install the plug wires on the drivers side would it make sense to remove the idler pulley to gain easier access to the Opti? thanks
I didnt do that, but it might help. If it helps you get your hand in there, then go for it. Its easy enough!
Chris I have a 94 Corvette LT1 and every time their is dew or rain it will turn over but not start...it makes a rump noise and shakes like it is flooded. Raise the hood and let it get sun for 10-15 minutes and it starts right up ...Driving me nuts trying to find the problem..Tried LPS water dispersment on all electrical plugs and wires..still does same thing...
Colt Brinlee It is the optispark probably getting moisture in it if I had to guess. It could be something else but if I had to guess I would say OPTI because your 94 did not have the vented and more water proof one unfortunately.
is it throwing a code and/or check engine light on
+Colt Brinlee --Its the optispark for sure. had the same thing. Its 12 bolts in total to get to it and get it off buts its a mother. You can save money buying it on line instead of the auto parts store.
GM no longer makes a factory replacement optispark, they have been gone from dealer and parts store shelves for years. Aftermarket opti's are poor quality and they can fail in a very short time. Some have been put in and found to be bad from the get go. Replacing an opti and having it go bad in a week or a month is not uncommon.
The pre-1995 Optispark distributor had this problem where moisture could gather inside the distributor and cause starting issues during high humidity or rain. For the 1995 model year GM upgraded the distributor with vacuum vents to solve this problem. Many of the OEM and aftermarket replacement distributors will have these vents, so if you replace the distributor with one of those updated versions it should solve the problem.
I changed the plugs and wires on my car like 3 months ago. I didn't route them correctly and two of them rub on metal pieces. Saw them arcing last night. Also don't have the wire heat shields. Chris, do you think I should buy the wire heat shields?
Meant to say didn't route them correctly on the wire looms
Brandon Herrera If you route them correctly you dont need heat shields. Even with the heat shields, if they are constantly touching a hot engine piece, they will eventually burn.
Hey Chris, I had my clutch replaced and my 92 base model vette now keeps throwing ASR & ABS messages. In first gear at start up, it pulls back with humming behind me. Can you give any advice? Thanks!
I could swear I have this exact corvette by those hashmarks down the side of the driver fender is this an automatic? Mine is in Tennessee
love the DriftStang more
I tried to get the wire off of my #7 spark plug, I have a 94 buick roadmaster so it has the LT1, and it would not come off, it would rotate but I could not get the thing to pop off. Any tricks to help get it off?? Thanks Chris!
To add; my exhaust manifold bolt broke off on the back cylinder, common, so I have to take the manifold off at some point anyway, I think I need to do that to change the wire anyway because of the routing. I would still like to put a new plug in the thing!
melonas22 Use a pliers to help grab it or try wiggling it side to side to try to get air in there so there isnt a vacuum when you are pulling it out. Good luck!
A wise man once said, "if you can't get it off, play with it for a while"
Good video but, it is a pia job. I've broken a few plugs taking them out (by using the universal attachment )
great vid thanks
Whats the difference in the Corvette LT1 and the Camaro LT1? I have a 96 Camaro Z28.
First thing I did when I bought my Vette several years ago was replace the plugs and wires. Took me two days and a lot of swearing. I dropped the socket numerous times on number eight, and getting to the opti on the drivers side was unbearable. Last month I replaced my water pump, and I could clearly see the drivers side of the opti. It might be a little more work removing the water pump to do the plug wires, but there would be a lot less swearing envolved going this rout in my opinion. Besides, the Lt1 can always use a fresh water pump ever now and then.....😉
How do you know if the wires need to be changed? Do you recommend doing it preventatively?
At about 100k miles you should change them. If you want to check you can test resistance with a multimeter. I dont know the acceptable range for the wires but you can google that. You can also spray the wires with a fine mist of water with a spray bottle in the pitch black. If you see sparks (due to arching) then it is time to replace your wires. This was the case for this Vette!
Alright, thank you. I'll try that test. I bought mine at 160,000 (still about that) and want to change the plugs. It is slow to start and starts rough when it is at full running temperature only, so I don't know if this will help. I imagine new plugs won't hurt anyway, and I guess I should just do the wires too since I have a good instruction to follow!
I would def replace the wires too. Give the spray-bottle trick a try and let me know if you see sparks! If it is still running rough, let me know and we can try to diagnose it over youtube. Might be fuel pressure related or opti-spark related.
I'll take your advice, and I'll update you in a few weeks once I get the wires shipped in and am home to do the job. I'm going to go ahead and get battery cables too. Is there anything else electrical I should just go ahead and replace while I am putting in an order?
What's odd is that it only is rough to start when the engine temp is above 195-200. If it has time to cool below that, it usually starts fine. Always starts strong when cold.
Good video, but I cringe when I see dialectric grease placed on connections. It should be used on the boots...not on the metal terminals. It is non-conductive, just like the boot, and prevents arcing.
TheToppingGroup Thanks for the tip!
Incorrect. Dielectric grease has little to no impact on conductivity. Dielectric grease is used to minimize micro-corrosion of the electrical contact surfaces.
You should clean the contact surfaces (could be as simple as cleaning with a pencil eraser) and then apply a dab of dielectric grease to inhibit corrosion of the contact surfaces you just cleaned.
Good vid, I have a 95 z/28 with the same engine but I think my opti-spark unit went and that's going to be a pain to replace, damned gm thinking that they had a good idea by putting "rotor" on the front of the engine
I'm not getting any spark at all, where is the coil located?
R Jones The optispark is 4 coils.
R Jones Thanks man. If you need to get to the opti, I dont have a specific video on how to replace it, but I have a waterpump video that shows all the steps to get the water pump off (which you will need to do to get to the opti. How To Water Pump Replacement LT1
Saw it, thanks
ChrisFix
Which brand of plug wires did you use?
AC Delco for plugs and wires. They have a certain resistance (which the Vette is tuned to) so it doesnt cause interference with the electronics because the Vette has a fiberglass firewall.