Ive a 170 i got free, guy hadn't used it for ages, got a new saw etc. cleaned the carb fresh and plug its a great little saw! Open up the exhaust a little and make sure the idle screw is set right. Also if you do keep it you can change the chain tensioner position to the clutch cover like the bigger saws very easy bout £10 for the part 1123 007 1000, dont buy a knock off one cheap as they're rubbish.
On mine it seemed to match up. It’s got a weird style of clutch compared to a traditional one. From what I understand they are meant to be a wear part or cheaply made enough that they just are. I’ve seen of some people going to a conventional drum but I don’t think I will, it’s 20 bucks for two drums and I’ve got 17 sharpens on this chain alone plus the last one before this. And the clutch sprocket has just started to wear grooves in it to where it needs replacement. I got lucky, but yes when upgrading bar and chains the fine details do matter as you stated.
I have the opposite experience....got the 170(new) last year. From cold, ever since I got it - it always takes me 10-15 minutes to get it running before I can use it. Very annoying. I rented an echo for a day to just compare - and that was no problem, starting/stopping whenever I wanted all day long. Maybe I just got a lemon - the dealer couldn't figure anything out.
Could be you have a lemon or I got lucky, I know in the past I’ve had other stihls that have been absolutely brutal to start. The problem I have with these is if the carb is off from the factory, there is no way to tune it to get it in that sweat spot, which definitely could be the case on yours. Carbs are sorta cheap might not be a bad idea if you still have it to try a different carb before selling it.
@@FiveSpeedGarage " there is no way to tune it to get it in that sweat spot, which definitely could be the case on yours." This is what I suspected. " try a different carb before selling it." Thanks for that tip...I will look into it. But as annoying the cold start is - once running and warm - it purrs along all day no problem. And related to what you mentioned in the video - yeah, I was surprised and how well it tackled the big trunks and trees with very dense wood. This was my first saw, and got me really enjoying chainsaw work. It's like a new hobby and even though getting a new carb will likely work - I think I'm going to try some other model/manufacturer, spending a bit more money this time, for another 'new toy.' This one for the price has already paid for itself many times over. Thanks again for your input.
Almost EVERY starting problem that exists with the Stihl saws(even much older models)involves the multifunction lever and the placement of it during cold starting. The choke MUST be fully closed for enough fuel to be pulled into the cylinder. The multifunction levers can pop out of place, break or otherwise become discombobulated generally as the result of rough use. It should NEVER, under ANY circumstance, take more than 3 pulls to pop and 2 more to be running once put into “semi choke” position. A warm saw should start with ONE pull, anything else and something is not right. It doesn’t seem conceivable to me that someone would take “10-15 minutes” to start a saw. That’s a lack of understanding about when to look for a problem or take it in for service. Sometimes I wonder if some of these responses are from competing model dealers or someone just looking to flame a certain brand. Stihl has built its reputation out of 100 years of innovation and solid reliable engineering. The MS170 is the pinnacle of 30cc saws, no other saw in that class has the power,reliability and longevity along with ease of use that this saw has, doesn’t exist…don’t look for it. My own personal saws are a 2011 MS170, a 2022 261-C,a 2023 400c and a 1995 064AV. Every time I load up to go do some tree work I look at that 170 and think to myself…”WOW! What a FANTASTIC saw.” And it is.
@@wizardsofwisconsin7400 Couldn’t agree more. I have a few bigger saws 40-60cc and I always end up grabbing this one. It’ll do everything the others do maybe not as fast but with the 16 bar it’s a very capable saw. Very light which I find nice for falling tree after tree you can go a good while and not even feel it
Yes, there are a quite a few on the market still however. At least where I am they come up for sale decently cheap. I’ve found a good portion of them have been lightly used, again probably depends where you are.
Will have to see I suppose. With the bigger chain it will bog sometimes, I just lift it up a bit and let it clear out. I’ve been playing around with it putting various pressures on lit so it would be interesting to see how it would do dogged up into a tree.
Ive a 170 i got free, guy hadn't used it for ages, got a new saw etc. cleaned the carb fresh and plug its a great little saw! Open up the exhaust a little and make sure the idle screw is set right. Also if you do keep it you can change the chain tensioner position to the clutch cover like the bigger saws very easy bout £10 for the part 1123 007 1000, dont buy a knock off one cheap as they're rubbish.
In changing the blade and chain you may have to switch out the the drive wheel as well. More expense.
On mine it seemed to match up. It’s got a weird style of clutch compared to a traditional one. From what I understand they are meant to be a wear part or cheaply made enough that they just are.
I’ve seen of some people going to a conventional drum but I don’t think I will, it’s 20 bucks for two drums and I’ve got 17 sharpens on this chain alone plus the last one before this. And the clutch sprocket has just started to wear grooves in it to where it needs replacement.
I got lucky, but yes when upgrading bar and chains the fine details do matter as you stated.
I have the opposite experience....got the 170(new) last year. From cold, ever since I got it - it always takes me 10-15 minutes to get it running before I can use it. Very annoying.
I rented an echo for a day to just compare - and that was no problem, starting/stopping whenever I wanted all day long.
Maybe I just got a lemon - the dealer couldn't figure anything out.
Could be you have a lemon or I got lucky, I know in the past I’ve had other stihls that have been absolutely brutal to start. The problem I have with these is if the carb is off from the factory, there is no way to tune it to get it in that sweat spot, which definitely could be the case on yours. Carbs are sorta cheap might not be a bad idea if you still have it to try a different carb before selling it.
@@FiveSpeedGarage " there is no way to tune it to get it in that sweat spot, which definitely could be the case on yours."
This is what I suspected.
" try a different carb before selling it."
Thanks for that tip...I will look into it.
But as annoying the cold start is - once running and warm - it purrs along all day no problem. And related to what you mentioned in the video - yeah, I was surprised and how well it tackled the big trunks and trees with very dense wood.
This was my first saw, and got me really enjoying chainsaw work. It's like a new hobby and even though getting a new carb will likely work - I think I'm going to try some other model/manufacturer, spending a bit more money this time, for another 'new toy.'
This one for the price has already paid for itself many times over.
Thanks again for your input.
Almost EVERY starting problem that exists with the Stihl saws(even much older models)involves the multifunction lever and the placement of it during cold starting. The choke MUST be fully closed for enough fuel to be pulled into the cylinder. The multifunction levers can pop out of place, break or otherwise become discombobulated generally as the result of rough use. It should NEVER, under ANY circumstance, take more than 3 pulls to pop and 2 more to be running once put into “semi choke” position. A warm saw should start with ONE pull, anything else and something is not right. It doesn’t seem conceivable to me that someone would take “10-15 minutes” to start a saw. That’s a lack of understanding about when to look for a problem or take it in for service. Sometimes I wonder if some of these responses are from competing model dealers or someone just looking to flame a certain brand. Stihl has built its reputation out of 100 years of innovation and solid reliable engineering. The MS170 is the pinnacle of 30cc saws, no other saw in that class has the power,reliability and longevity along with ease of use that this saw has, doesn’t exist…don’t look for it. My own personal saws are a 2011 MS170, a 2022 261-C,a 2023 400c and a 1995 064AV. Every time I load up to go do some tree work I look at that 170 and think to myself…”WOW! What a FANTASTIC saw.” And it is.
@@wizardsofwisconsin7400 Couldn’t agree more. I have a few bigger saws 40-60cc and I always end up grabbing this one. It’ll do everything the others do maybe not as fast but with the 16 bar it’s a very capable saw. Very light which I find nice for falling tree after tree you can go a good while and not even feel it
You can't buy a 170 new anymoore... they have been replaced..
Yes, there are a quite a few on the market still however. At least where I am they come up for sale decently cheap. I’ve found a good portion of them have been lightly used, again probably depends where you are.
Chances is soon as u go dog in a 170 it will bog
Will have to see I suppose. With the bigger chain it will bog sometimes, I just lift it up a bit and let it clear out. I’ve been playing around with it putting various pressures on lit so it would be interesting to see how it would do dogged up into a tree.