It just kills me to be sitting here all the way across the ocean in Arizona and watch you work on this very special car. I’m an old British car mechanic and I want to reach out and work on it with you 😂 If I were near you I’d come volunteer my labor and we’d have that little car up and running faster than you can say “cup O Tea” ❤ Really loving this series 👍🏻
Thank you. We’re enjoying the journey. I’ve been fiddling with the car again today. I love the way things were so well made. Different times. It’s all designed to be thrown away nowadays.
As a Boy racer in the '60s my first car was a 4 door A30,as you can imagine it was more a plodder than a racer.I had the head skimmed and a decent exhaust which probably gave it an extra one mph downhill.If you get to drive it the worst thing i remember was the clutch pedal,its rod operated and connected to the gear box so if the engine shudders the pedal wobbles side to side.The brake master cylinder is under the floor with a plate covering it.The oil filter is a by pass cartridge type,the later A35 increased engine size from 800cc to 950 with a full flow replaceable element.One of the weaknesses was the king pins wear.The ignition key number was often stamped on the ignition switch and usually fitted all the locks.The chain driving the camshaft off the crankshaft had two rubber rings in the sides of the camshaft sprocket to tension it.There were only two fuses fitted one live all the time the other controlled by ignition.
Hello both, (and guest?) just enjoyed watching you look around this car / engine / electrics. I can only suggest that for safety sake - a re-wire!! Also, strip the carb down - very simple, and wash out the float chamber, soak the jets and body then blow it out - should work! Ha- the air filter - have fun!! Soak the gauze in parafin then blow off. I am sure that you shall get the information and support from the Austin owners club. Best wishes from Lincolnshire.
Thanks, John. We're amazed by the amount of good advice we're getting. It's all taken on board. The comments section on our own videos has proven to be better than any Google search!
Fond memories of these little A30 s my father used to hire one at Christmas. We lived in Penzance Cornwall and drove to just outside Hull Yorkshire. A trip back then (1958) took twelve or more hours.
We had one of these! She was my Mum's car, and she learnt to drive in it! She had character that car. We all loved her. I remember her Reg no even now.....
Great progression Elton .For ' sparks ' , I suspect the coil may be well OK , check for 12 volts negative at the SW terminal on the coil ( test lamp or meter ) and continuity of the CB ( contact breaker ) terminal lead to the distributor terminal on the side.Clean up contact-breaker points , most likely oxidised and flick points to see if you get a visible spark and check that they are gapped to around 12 thou, opening and closing on the cam now she is free .The condenser in the distributor may be suspect but through my experience , many of this age are not and a lot of Chinese modern replacements are rubbish !.Also drop float chamber bowl and check for muck in there and that the float needle is not stuck.Though often derided , this proves a lot of Joe Lucas electrics of this age are very well made , I'm doing a similar ' 61 Austin 7 Mini , unused since 1974 and not one electrical item has been replaced !.I reckon she will be running awakened from her long slumber very soon - wish I there to help !.
Great progress, people! Awesome to see the little car come back to life so readily. The blower motor is the thing that looks like an industrial hair dryer to the right of the big black Smiths heater box. It's the thing that has the huge air intake pipe that runs to the inner front panel on the front of it. Inside the black box will be the heater core and the hot air pipes to the screen and cabin interior all come from that too. I'd forgotten how slow the wipers were! Only the one speed, they were never any good when the rain got heavy, but they do well enough in showers. The issue with the horn (glad to hear it's the A30 "meem" horn and not the A35 "parp" horn that a lot of owners swapped them for) is most likely a bad connection on the horn button itself. There are three (I think) spring clips that hold the black Bakelite horn button unit onto the centre of the steering wheel and with a bit of wiggling while puling, it will eventually come up. There is a wire that plugs into the button and then earths through the steering wheel via the aforementioned spring clips. My guess is that where the wire clips on is a bit corroded or the earthing of the clips isn't good. Most of the issues you will face will be bad earths as the Lucas system was notorious for putting aluminium bullet connectors into steel or brass clips and obviously this is prone to oxidation and metallurgic reaction - especially if there's been a bit of moisture. The best bet for the indicator system that was retrofitted would be to check the connections on the flasher unit itself and also that the wires are in the correct places on the indicator switch. Your tester will probably come in very handy in the next few weeks, I am picking! Congrats on getting the engine unstuck too. THAT has to be a weight off the mind! I too would be ordering plugs, points, distributor cap, leads, condenser and rotor arm - just to take any anomalies out of the system and give the little car the best chance at firing. The coil - yep, with a rusty exterior like that one has, it will either have failed or be close to it the next time the coil warms up, so good call to replace that too. As to the carb, the old Zenith was a great little work horse. Easy to tune and maintain and very simple....but people changed these for SU carbs because they believed the SU gave it more power. Me? I'd leave it with the Zenith any day. That one hasn't seen petrol in a very long time though, so I would debate whether to pull it apart and clean it, make sure the needle and seat are doing their job and throw a new gasket on. Chances are there is a fair bit of crud in the bowl and at least some aluminium oxide,,,,,none of which will help the idle jet if it is sucked in there. Lastly, the fuel pump. Undo the small nut (actually a bolt) on the centre of the cap, remove it and ensure the brass and gauze filter is clean and there is no sediment in the bottom of the pump's body. You can easily test the pump when it is reassembled as it has a lever on its base to pull fuel from the tank and prime the carb if it has been sitting for a while. Handy little thing, that - especially when you run out of petrol - ask me how I know.....! Best that you undo the line from the tank to the pump fairly soon too before cranking it much more and it decides to suck whatever is left sitting in the tank (old fuel, water, whatever) and dump it in the carb to make a bigger mess to sort out! Been there, done that too! Noticed there was no oil light. This one is going to be critical when she fires. Problem is likely either the oil light light bulb in the gauge cluster or the wire at the sender unit. Power feeds from the ignition to the light bulb and then down to the sender, which earths the bulb through itself and the engine when there is no oil pressure. Therefore, if you earth out the wire on the sender, the light should come on. If it doesn't, check the bulb. If it does, then replace the sender (after trying a bit of cleaning on the connector). If the bulb is ok, then the issue is in the wire between the sender and the bulb and you could run a new one rather than faffing around in the loom or just run a bulb in socket with one wire on the power side of the battery and the other to the top of the sender.....or just replace the sender with an oil pressure gauge which will tell you more about the state of the engine's bottom end anyway. On the oil filter, if the engine is an 803, she will be a spin-on, so no issues. If it's an 850, it will be a cannister filter like the A35's 950. If this is the case, make sure you get the old rubber ring seal out from up in the housing before fitting the new rubber ring seal and bolting the cannister back up.....or you will end up with oil going everywhere.....and yes, ask me how I know this one too! Whew! Man I wish I was there to help you out with reviving this little beasty. I'd love to bring one back and see it moving around, knowing I had a hand in making that happen. They still make me grin from ear to ear when I see one...... All the best
Lance, thank you so, so much for this reply. I’m going to print it off right now, put it in a poly-pocket and refer to it when I can get back to working on the car. I love this side of the internet; the people who help each other out. I’ve never worked on a car of this era before (apart from hot rods), and I’m really enjoying the learning experience. I’m very aware of my own limitations, which is why I am happy to make mistakes and ask for help. I didn’t expect to get as much good advice as we have, though. It’s very humbling.
@@UKBarnFinds - matey, I am so happy to help. As I mentioned on the first video, I basically cut my teeth on these beasties, working with Dad on the myriad of them that we had and later on my own and mates' A30s and A35s. I'm only a couple of years older than you and had it not been for the love of the that my extended family has for them, I probably would be in the same boat. I've personally owned a 54 A30 2-door, a 57 A35 2-door and a 57 A55 deluxe. The next youngest thing was my 65 Cortina GT, but then there's a jump of 9 years to my Subaru 1400DL an the Triumph Stag I now own - totally different beasties to work on than the 1950s Austins, where your best friend is a grease gun when it comes to making things right again. On the later cars it's the beginning of the "chuck it away and get a new one" era, when if someone had thought to put a grease nipple in certain areas, things would last a lot longer. In regard to finding information, the internet is awash with many things Austin. However, two manuals that I was never without were the dark blue leather-covered Service Manual for the Austin A30 Seven and the light blue plastic-covered ring-binder with gold writing that was the Service Manual for the A30 and A35. Modern tomes on the subject are nowhere near as good and do not translate to offering modern replacements for parts that are hard to find, so there's no benefit to having one. Forums and clubs are your best bet for ideas on that score - and again, these are plentiful. If you do not have an A30 manual, here's a link (which you will probably have to type in) for one I just found. It is a scanned copy of (I think) the A30 Seven manual, which was the one I used most. I checked and a) it is in English and b) it goes into great depth on the original fuel system including the carb and pump I mentioned, stripping them down, cleaning and replacing bits where necessary. It also shows the oil bath air filter (that big barrel-like thing you took off the top of the carb) and how to clean and service that as well. The words are a bit small on my laptop screen and appear a bit fuzzy, but they are readable. There may be a better copy out there somewhere, but this copy would be perfectly serviceable if it could be printed in A4 format or viewed on a bigger screen, I'm picking. www.hoppend.nl/manual.htm That's where it is - just copy and paste it into your browser and it should be good. One other thing I will mention is that the site has a plethora of other info on the A30 / A35, history of the breed, restorations, links to other sites for parts, clubs etc. Most of the latter are in the Netherlands, but there are some for the UK, so I hope it's useful. All the best - and I'm really looking forward to the next instalment on the little car.....and seeing these is really stirring me to go find another one, eh!
Great to see the little A30 gradually returning to life. For the brakes, l recommend stainless steel inserted cylinders from the A30/35 owners club. Looking forward to the next one 👍
I had a grey A30 circa 1968, have fond memories of it ,did quite a few miles in it albeit slowly, FYI , to change from pos to neg earth , just switch battery connections over and flash the large dynamo spade connector ie (make it spark ) that’s all it needs , done it on a few similar vehicles ,
My Dad had A30 and A35s when we were kids and I love them. Even had two when I got older and have a grill on the wall in my Man Cave. Keep going with the rebuild as I’m loving watching you do the work. 👍
Thank you. We’re enjoying this car, too. I need to free-up more workshop time, as I don’t think it would take a massive amount of effort to get the A30 running.
The amount of mixture that squirted from the spark plug holes suggests that the cylinders and the piston rings are in great condition. The movement of the pistons suggest a good bottom end. So all that is probably needed is a quick check of the rockers and valve gaps to be confident of a start when the electrics are sorted. A great little project.
Loving this thread of vids. The best way to find spark is work it up from the coil, check across the coil for power with a current reader, if there is power then check distributor and points, the condenser should be found in the distributor, check for spark across the points, if not could be bad contacts or faulty condenser, can change both, check HT leads are serviceable. Normally this process should get you sparking👍🏻. Good luck
Hi guys the brake light switch is operated by the brake hydraulics and is hooked into the brake line. As the car has a positive body the centre wire is made live when the brake peddle is pressed down operating the brake lights. New points, capacitor and coil should fix the distributor spark. 👍🏻👍🏻
RUclips suggested this video to me, never watched any of your videos before. What shall I say? Just lovely, you guys are amazing. And I really do like your concept of filming and cutting the footage. Oh, the content of course is also excellent and entertaining.Thank you so much. Cheers, Chris
Thanks, Chris, that’s really kind of you. We’re still finding our way with RUclips, but Claire and I are trying to mix it up a bit, so that we have variety on this channel and, to be honest, in our own lives. The feedback this little A30 has generated has really motivated us both. It seems to attract nice people. Thanks again, Elton
Don't buy all new parts for the ignition. Just check the connections to the coil (as Roger Coleman suggests) and clean the points, making sure there is a gap. He says 12 thou. I would have said 16 thou. But the size of the gap is not important. Just that they open and close, and they make a good clean connection. I would guess that will get you a spark. My 1936 Austin 7 (now 87 years old) was a barn find for for abbout 40 years. I had her running in about 45 minutes. Of course the Austin 7 is the ancestor of the A30. I am very jealous of your little car. I reckon she is great!
I've watched the vids on this car one after the other and it's taken me back to being 17 again. Yes it's an A30 and my first car was an A35 but still great memories. Thank you so much.
That's really nice to read. A big part of the appeal of old cars is the memories they bring back. We have so many conversations with people about our various cars and bikes. I think that's why we like the lower spec cars, rather than the GTi type ones; people relate to our collection.
In 1965 at the age of 17, just passed my test, my Mum and Dad cancelled some of their " penny policies" with the Brittanic Insurance to buy me my Austin A35 what a wonderful car..... Keep up the good work it will give you joy back in spades ....
That Austin A30 is so cute. Love the shape of the car... with the paintwork I would leave it as it is, it adds character and charm. Can't wait for the next step.... G'day from Australia 🇦🇺
Cheers! It's nice to know that our little channel is getting viewed over there. My mum lives in South Australia...I reckon she's going round, telling everyone to watch us 😂- Elton
Thank You for an another interesting video of the Austin project. I really think You do the things in the right order, with the goal to get the engine/car running. I look forward to the next episodes. One last thing: I like the subtle sense of humor you have, when working on the car. Greeting from Norway, and a proud owner of an 2cv which I have restored to usable condition.
Thank you for the comment. We do really enjoy the Austin A30, so I’m glad the lightheartedness comes across. It’s nice to have a car that both Claire and I can work on together and we always try to have fun in life. We really must do some more work on our own 2CV, too. They’re great cars.
Please don't change the coil unless it's faulty. It's a very rare early 1950's Lucas coil. Be careful with the 4inch cardboard pipe which is the air intake for the heater. They are like gold dust as are the smaller ones going into the cabin and very delicate.
When you get it too running again. You can put mineral spirits in with the oil about a quart and let it idle for a long while until it quits smoking. It frees up the piston rings. Cleans out the carbon deposits.
That's what it's all about bringing the ole girl back ! Carb looks to be okay as throttle and choke move freely, looking forward to the next episode guys. Cheers
Thank you. I hope I don't have to get as deep in as you are with your project. Some intense work you're doing over there! We've just subscribed to your channel 👍
@UKBarnFinds You never know with cars ! One thing leads to another when you start fixing cars you can't stop.. and yeah I got my hands full ! The Stag is going well here in Australia. Had the travel time from Milton Keynes to west London down to 45 minutes in my old stag..those were the days..cheers guys all the best.
My first car was a 1953 Austin A30 which had been purchased new by my father, a US Naval officer, when we were stationed in Norway after the war. Dad bought it because he didn’t like military jeeps. It was left hand drive so he could eventually import it and use it as a family car in the US. I helped my brother rebuild the engine some time in the mid-sixties when I would have been about twelve years old. Eventually I inherited the car through my oldest sister and my oldest brother. I remember servicing the distributor quite often, putting new points in and adjusting the gap and the timing. When we moved to the US we had to decommission the flip-out turn indicators for some reason. The poor car was finally vandalized beyond repair in the early 70s. Maybe I’ll take a trip down memory lane and buy another one some day.
Just by way of info .. That air filter doesn't use a paper element, it is in fact a gauze type which you see on the front end of it. Clean it with paraffin or petrol and then oil the gauze with engine oil. The oil sticks to the gauze and collects the micro particles. How do I know this ? .. Ex BL trained mechanic who has worked on and serviced the A30 and in fact, I still probably have some service details on the model and even models going back to the 1930's
I have been a recent subscriber and nice to see an honest and nice channel with interesting content. Thank you for entertaining me and look forward for more to come.
Thank you. Reading that was a lovely start to a Sunday morning. We hope we can keep you entertained. We’re trying a few things, to ensure there’s variety, and what you see is what you get with Claire and I. Happy to show all the mistakes, as well as the good bits 😂
These are probably my favourite British car, we had one when I was a lad, and I would love to own one and restore it to it’s former glory. Really enjoying this run of videos 👍
@10.24, bridge the switch & see if they work, it could be the ball inside could just be stuck if the brake lights come on, by the way the club do resleeved brake master cylinders, frame cylinder & wheel cylinders (Stainless steel sleeved)
The air filter does not come apart, it’s a sealed unit. You clean this with an airline through the filters, wash it through with petrol, then air a small amount of oil to the gause filter. ( not to much.. I’d not replace the coil, I’d think that’s fine, change the points and condenser, along with Rota arm and cap. She will run. Also check the two filters inside the carb bowl are not blocked, and the bowl will probably be full of old petrol dust, two 7/16 bolts takes it off.
A few people have said to leave the coil, so that’s what I’ll do for now. We’d like to keep as many of the original parts as possible. Thanks for the tips; the comments section has been far better than any Google search!
I had a ‘56 A30 for a while in the late 80’s, it was a 2 door in the turquoise blue colour, with a metal sun visor over the windscreen. I sold it to a guy in East Kent and it would appear from DVLA records that it is still in use. The 803cc engine was the first use of the then new A Series unit by BMC.
The Austin is just one year shy of my age ! Great find , cant wait to hear you try yo start it . I am in Arizona USA . Never seen one of those little guys around here . Scott 🌵
We’ve just had another guy in Arizona commenting. You need to set up an Austin A30 club there! 😂 This car is so tiny, even by Brit standards. I should think it would look hilarious next to an American car!
Try to earth the coil lead from the distributor see if it will spark then you know if the coil is ok. Check the points are gapped for a spark clean the rotor arm on the side of the tyre. Then you should get a spark at the plugs. All being well.❤😁
If I remember rightly (it's been 60 years) you dunk the wire mesh end in a bath of paraffin, drain it completely, then dunk it in motor oil and again let it drain completely. The bad particles in the air stick to the oil when the car's running.
Yeah, a few people suggested that mix and it was stuff we had hanging around in the workshop, so I thought it was worth a try. Good luck with your Ford. Is there much to do on it?
its only sleeplng, gently wake it up and it will be fine.i had one on a farm track back in the 70s.i thrashed it till it died, oh dear, i regrett it so much🤕
I’m almost sure that the distributor cap and rotor arm are the same as the original Mini engine. Also you could “borrow” the coil and condenser from the mini as well. They both use the A series engine, so it may be worth a look.
the earlier A30 had a simular cap to the Mini's but they are not quite the same, the very late A30's did have the Mini type fitted, if Elton can tell us the 5 digit distributor number i will be able to tell which cap it has
We've had a few people comment from New Zealand, so I'm guessing quite a few were shipped out there. Or maybe they were even put together there? I need to do a bit of research on that.
@@UKBarnFindsfor many years here in nz the only way to buy a car was to have overseas funds. Most of the Austin's post war were shipped out as knock down units from the UK so they had a nz assembly component. All UK export models were fitted with an oil bath aircleaner silencer which is wwhat I am trying to find for my 1955 a50
The A series engine is a tough little thing, capable of much more power than it had in the A30, and likely to be a good runner. At high mileage the weak point may be gearbox. One A30 I knew used to jump out of first if you lifted off to change gear and dipped the clutch. It belonged to a neighbour and my father drove it to demonstrate that if he revved it hard enough in first, he could make it jump straight into second gear!
i would be tempted to take the float lid off the carburettor and check for varnish and gunk before attempting to start it. Also, a seperate fuel supply (fuel Can) until you figure out whether the tank is full of rust or 1971 petrol 🙂 thats my 1/2 pence worth 🙂
Whilst investigating the ignition system, I’d be tempted to change the polarity to negative earth - with todays salty roads it’d vaporise that car in no time. It’s a simple job, can be a bit aggravating getting the generator flashed over to negative earth. But they’ll usually go. Used to love working on the A Series engines, simple and fairly reliable if you treat them right. I have one in my garage that I’ll be reconditioning at some stage (it’s out of a Mini so has the box with it) On the ignition, did these have the in line ballast resistor for the coil? Fingers crossed for the next part 🤞👍
@@UKBarnFindsoddly enough - I find talking to the camera whilst driving easier than standing in front of it - I guess when I’ve got something else to focus on I’m less self-conscious!
I get that. It's really weird, talking to a camera. We have occasions when it just won't come together. You can see why real actors and presenters have years of training.
The fuel pump is on the side of the engine on Passenger side, it’s a mechanical type. Should have a primer lever, but usually they have snapped off. Be very careful with it if it still there. There is a very small bolt on the top, unscrew that, and you will see a brass filter, lift that out, and you will probably see the body full of crap, clean that out, and replace filter back on.
Thank you. I’m popping into the workshop today and will have a look. If I spot it, I’ll give it a blast with WD40 penetrating oil and leave it until during the week. Everything has come apart surprisingly well so far.
OMG an old fashoned parking light i haven't seen one of those in years i remember my dad had an Austin A 40 i think you had to use them back in the day if you parked on a main road i remember my dad used to make sure ho used it when we visited my Nan she lived near Harwich police station he didn't want to get couight
Don't replace the coil as it's doubtful it's gone, if it's also the earlier dizzy the points are not the standard Mini type, i can see you have the Zenith 26VME C1511 carb on it
When you look at the horn start with removing the horn push from the centre of the steering wheel should just prise out inside you will find a brass ring a spring a wire contact coming up through the centre of the steering columb clean all these up and check the wire for continuity. one other thing you may encounter I think on those they had an electric fuel pump which you should hear when you switch on the ignition if you dont then its not working and will need looking at
Thanks. I'll have a try at sorting that horn and, maybe, the indicators next. If I can chip away at the little jobs one-by-one, it will all come together.
@5.57, pausing it looking at the engine number (SRA 3) it looks like it's a replacement maybe 'Gold Seal' factory one, the original engine number numbers should match up with the chassis number numbers
Have a look at a youtuber called junk yard digs, he does barn finds in America, I know the engines etc are bigger but he will show you how to clean / get working your points, coil's and hopefully get sparks, he all so show you how to rebuild carburates, it might give you a few ideas
A great old British survivor car that deserves to live again. Get those electrics sorted out - distributor cap, points etc. 👍👍
That's the plan! One little step at a time, I think. I really want to hear this car start up!
It just kills me to be sitting here all the way across the ocean in Arizona and watch you work on this very special car. I’m an old British car mechanic and I want to reach out and work on it with you 😂 If I were near you I’d come volunteer my labor and we’d have that little car up and running faster than you can say “cup O Tea” ❤ Really loving this series 👍🏻
If you’re ever over here, feel free to join in. We’ll supply all the tea you can drink!
Its just awful isn't it.
Me too I find myself shouting the correct term for parts he is not and knowing what I would do if I was there
Im72 and I love those little cars so many memories love your blogs and well done for saving that little car❤
Thank you. We’re enjoying the journey. I’ve been fiddling with the car again today. I love the way things were so well made. Different times. It’s all designed to be thrown away nowadays.
A real survivor and and now you have this incredible A30 she will survive, keep up the good work 💪👍
Thank you. It's been fun so far!
I bet it has, I eagerly await the update. Next show you are at would love to come and see and bring my daily classic too
So easy to work on , but then I’m an oldie
As a Boy racer in the '60s my first car was a 4 door A30,as you can imagine it was more a plodder than a racer.I had the head skimmed and a decent exhaust which probably gave it an extra one mph downhill.If you get to drive it the worst thing i remember was the clutch pedal,its rod operated and connected to the gear box so if the engine shudders the pedal wobbles side to side.The brake master cylinder is under the floor with a plate covering it.The oil filter is a by pass cartridge type,the later A35 increased engine size from 800cc to 950 with a full flow replaceable element.One of the weaknesses was the king pins wear.The ignition key number was often stamped on the ignition switch and usually fitted all the locks.The chain driving the camshaft off the crankshaft had two rubber rings in the sides of the camshaft sprocket to tension it.There were only two fuses fitted one live all the time the other controlled by ignition.
I just found your videos . These were great little cars in there day . I’m keen to see what happens next.
Hello both, (and guest?) just enjoyed watching you look around this car / engine / electrics. I can only suggest that for safety sake - a re-wire!! Also, strip the carb down - very simple, and wash out the float chamber, soak the jets and body then blow it out - should work! Ha- the air filter - have fun!! Soak the gauze in parafin then blow off. I am sure that you shall get the information and support from the Austin owners club. Best wishes from Lincolnshire.
Thanks, John. We're amazed by the amount of good advice we're getting. It's all taken on board. The comments section on our own videos has proven to be better than any Google search!
Fond memories of these little A30 s my father used to hire one at Christmas.
We lived in Penzance Cornwall and drove to just outside Hull Yorkshire.
A trip back then (1958) took twelve or more hours.
Jeez! These little cars really did get about!
That little Austin wants to live and it deserves a second chance 👍
Thanks you two! I’m loving this! 👍☺️
We had one of these! She was my Mum's car, and she learnt to drive in it! She had character that car. We all loved her. I remember her Reg no even now.....
Remember the Austin from my years as a child they were very popular
Love watching this gradually come back to life.
Thank you. We're glad we managed to capture it like we did. It was an amazing hour or so.
Keep us updated - love it.
Beautiful restoration.
Little survivor. I'd say fix as needed and preserve. Coil and condenser replace clean the points and check the dwell and the contacts. she should run.
Great progression Elton .For ' sparks ' , I suspect the coil may be well OK , check for 12 volts negative at the SW terminal on the coil ( test lamp or meter ) and continuity of the CB ( contact breaker ) terminal lead to the distributor terminal on the side.Clean up contact-breaker points , most likely oxidised and flick points to see if you get a visible spark and check that they are gapped to around 12 thou, opening and closing on the cam now she is free .The condenser in the distributor may be suspect but through my experience , many of this age are not and a lot of Chinese modern replacements are rubbish !.Also drop float chamber bowl and check for muck in there and that the float needle is not stuck.Though often derided , this proves a lot of Joe Lucas electrics of this age are very well made , I'm doing a similar ' 61 Austin 7 Mini , unused since 1974 and not one electrical item has been replaced !.I reckon she will be running awakened from her long slumber very soon - wish I there to help !.
Brilliant little voyage of discovery! Would be worth changing all the rubber hoses, both fuel and coolant before you try for a start.
Great progress, people! Awesome to see the little car come back to life so readily.
The blower motor is the thing that looks like an industrial hair dryer to the right of the big black Smiths heater box. It's the thing that has the huge air intake pipe that runs to the inner front panel on the front of it. Inside the black box will be the heater core and the hot air pipes to the screen and cabin interior all come from that too.
I'd forgotten how slow the wipers were! Only the one speed, they were never any good when the rain got heavy, but they do well enough in showers. The issue with the horn (glad to hear it's the A30 "meem" horn and not the A35 "parp" horn that a lot of owners swapped them for) is most likely a bad connection on the horn button itself. There are three (I think) spring clips that hold the black Bakelite horn button unit onto the centre of the steering wheel and with a bit of wiggling while puling, it will eventually come up. There is a wire that plugs into the button and then earths through the steering wheel via the aforementioned spring clips. My guess is that where the wire clips on is a bit corroded or the earthing of the clips isn't good.
Most of the issues you will face will be bad earths as the Lucas system was notorious for putting aluminium bullet connectors into steel or brass clips and obviously this is prone to oxidation and metallurgic reaction - especially if there's been a bit of moisture. The best bet for the indicator system that was retrofitted would be to check the connections on the flasher unit itself and also that the wires are in the correct places on the indicator switch. Your tester will probably come in very handy in the next few weeks, I am picking!
Congrats on getting the engine unstuck too. THAT has to be a weight off the mind! I too would be ordering plugs, points, distributor cap, leads, condenser and rotor arm - just to take any anomalies out of the system and give the little car the best chance at firing. The coil - yep, with a rusty exterior like that one has, it will either have failed or be close to it the next time the coil warms up, so good call to replace that too. As to the carb, the old Zenith was a great little work horse. Easy to tune and maintain and very simple....but people changed these for SU carbs because they believed the SU gave it more power. Me? I'd leave it with the Zenith any day.
That one hasn't seen petrol in a very long time though, so I would debate whether to pull it apart and clean it, make sure the needle and seat are doing their job and throw a new gasket on. Chances are there is a fair bit of crud in the bowl and at least some aluminium oxide,,,,,none of which will help the idle jet if it is sucked in there. Lastly, the fuel pump. Undo the small nut (actually a bolt) on the centre of the cap, remove it and ensure the brass and gauze filter is clean and there is no sediment in the bottom of the pump's body. You can easily test the pump when it is reassembled as it has a lever on its base to pull fuel from the tank and prime the carb if it has been sitting for a while. Handy little thing, that - especially when you run out of petrol - ask me how I know.....! Best that you undo the line from the tank to the pump fairly soon too before cranking it much more and it decides to suck whatever is left sitting in the tank (old fuel, water, whatever) and dump it in the carb to make a bigger mess to sort out! Been there, done that too!
Noticed there was no oil light. This one is going to be critical when she fires. Problem is likely either the oil light light bulb in the gauge cluster or the wire at the sender unit. Power feeds from the ignition to the light bulb and then down to the sender, which earths the bulb through itself and the engine when there is no oil pressure. Therefore, if you earth out the wire on the sender, the light should come on. If it doesn't, check the bulb. If it does, then replace the sender (after trying a bit of cleaning on the connector). If the bulb is ok, then the issue is in the wire between the sender and the bulb and you could run a new one rather than faffing around in the loom or just run a bulb in socket with one wire on the power side of the battery and the other to the top of the sender.....or just replace the sender with an oil pressure gauge which will tell you more about the state of the engine's bottom end anyway.
On the oil filter, if the engine is an 803, she will be a spin-on, so no issues. If it's an 850, it will be a cannister filter like the A35's 950. If this is the case, make sure you get the old rubber ring seal out from up in the housing before fitting the new rubber ring seal and bolting the cannister back up.....or you will end up with oil going everywhere.....and yes, ask me how I know this one too!
Whew! Man I wish I was there to help you out with reviving this little beasty. I'd love to bring one back and see it moving around, knowing I had a hand in making that happen. They still make me grin from ear to ear when I see one......
All the best
Lance, thank you so, so much for this reply. I’m going to print it off right now, put it in a poly-pocket and refer to it when I can get back to working on the car. I love this side of the internet; the people who help each other out. I’ve never worked on a car of this era before (apart from hot rods), and I’m really enjoying the learning experience. I’m very aware of my own limitations, which is why I am happy to make mistakes and ask for help. I didn’t expect to get as much good advice as we have, though. It’s very humbling.
@@UKBarnFinds - matey, I am so happy to help. As I mentioned on the first video, I basically cut my teeth on these beasties, working with Dad on the myriad of them that we had and later on my own and mates' A30s and A35s. I'm only a couple of years older than you and had it not been for the love of the that my extended family has for them, I probably would be in the same boat. I've personally owned a 54 A30 2-door, a 57 A35 2-door and a 57 A55 deluxe. The next youngest thing was my 65 Cortina GT, but then there's a jump of 9 years to my Subaru 1400DL an the Triumph Stag I now own - totally different beasties to work on than the 1950s Austins, where your best friend is a grease gun when it comes to making things right again. On the later cars it's the beginning of the "chuck it away and get a new one" era, when if someone had thought to put a grease nipple in certain areas, things would last a lot longer.
In regard to finding information, the internet is awash with many things Austin. However, two manuals that I was never without were the dark blue leather-covered Service Manual for the Austin A30 Seven and the light blue plastic-covered ring-binder with gold writing that was the Service Manual for the A30 and A35. Modern tomes on the subject are nowhere near as good and do not translate to offering modern replacements for parts that are hard to find, so there's no benefit to having one. Forums and clubs are your best bet for ideas on that score - and again, these are plentiful. If you do not have an A30 manual, here's a link (which you will probably have to type in) for one I just found. It is a scanned copy of (I think) the A30 Seven manual, which was the one I used most. I checked and a) it is in English and b) it goes into great depth on the original fuel system including the carb and pump I mentioned, stripping them down, cleaning and replacing bits where necessary. It also shows the oil bath air filter (that big barrel-like thing you took off the top of the carb) and how to clean and service that as well. The words are a bit small on my laptop screen and appear a bit fuzzy, but they are readable. There may be a better copy out there somewhere, but this copy would be perfectly serviceable if it could be printed in A4 format or viewed on a bigger screen, I'm picking.
www.hoppend.nl/manual.htm
That's where it is - just copy and paste it into your browser and it should be good. One other thing I will mention is that the site has a plethora of other info on the A30 / A35, history of the breed, restorations, links to other sites for parts, clubs etc. Most of the latter are in the Netherlands, but there are some for the UK, so I hope it's useful.
All the best - and I'm really looking forward to the next instalment on the little car.....and seeing these is really stirring me to go find another one, eh!
Great to see the little A30 gradually returning to life. For the brakes, l recommend stainless steel inserted cylinders from the A30/35 owners club. Looking forward to the next one 👍
I had a grey A30 circa 1968, have fond memories of it ,did quite a few miles in it albeit slowly, FYI , to change from pos to neg earth , just switch battery connections over and flash the large dynamo spade connector ie (make it spark ) that’s all it needs , done it on a few similar vehicles ,
If I get the car running, I may find that somebody did just that years ago. Would you know the best way to find out?
great video i love the little A30 thanks for sharing its journey back to the road!!
My Dad had A30 and A35s when we were kids and I love them. Even had two when I got older and have a grill on the wall in my Man Cave. Keep going with the rebuild as I’m loving watching you do the work. 👍
Thank you. We’re enjoying this car, too. I need to free-up more workshop time, as I don’t think it would take a massive amount of effort to get the A30 running.
The amount of mixture that squirted from the spark plug holes suggests that the cylinders and the piston rings are in great condition. The movement of the pistons suggest a good bottom end. So all that is probably needed is a quick check of the rockers and valve gaps to be confident of a start when the electrics are sorted. A great little project.
Loving every minute of this! Please keep it coming and thank you!
Thank you. Have to say, it’s been lovely for us, too. Great little car and some lovely people commenting on it.
Lovely couple love the channel
U have big barn nice
Loving this thread of vids. The best way to find spark is work it up from the coil, check across the coil for power with a current reader, if there is power then check distributor and points, the condenser should be found in the distributor, check for spark across the points, if not could be bad contacts or faulty condenser, can change both, check HT leads are serviceable. Normally this process should get you sparking👍🏻. Good luck
Brilliant interesting with the a30 remember as a kid my dad few off a35 went everywhere love them little Austins
Hi guys the brake light switch is operated by the brake hydraulics and is hooked into the brake line. As the car has a positive body the centre wire is made live when the brake peddle is pressed down operating the brake lights. New points, capacitor and coil should fix the distributor spark. 👍🏻👍🏻
Really sweet engine in that car (803cc) had the same in my first Morris Minor. Don't forget that modern petrol is a problem for these old engines
RUclips suggested this video to me, never watched any of your videos before. What shall I say? Just lovely, you guys are amazing. And I really do like your concept of filming and cutting the footage. Oh, the content of course is also excellent and entertaining.Thank you so much. Cheers, Chris
Thanks, Chris, that’s really kind of you. We’re still finding our way with RUclips, but Claire and I are trying to mix it up a bit, so that we have variety on this channel and, to be honest, in our own lives. The feedback this little A30 has generated has really motivated us both. It seems to attract nice people. Thanks again, Elton
Don't buy all new parts for the ignition. Just check the connections to the coil (as Roger Coleman suggests) and clean the points, making sure there is a gap. He says 12 thou. I would have said 16 thou. But the size of the gap is not important. Just that they open and close, and they make a good clean connection. I would guess that will get you a spark. My 1936 Austin 7 (now 87 years old) was a barn find for for abbout 40 years. I had her running in about 45 minutes. Of course the Austin 7 is the ancestor of the A30.
I am very jealous of your little car. I reckon she is great!
That's a surprise for Lucas ( the prince of darkness ) electrics .
I've watched the vids on this car one after the other and it's taken me back to being 17 again. Yes it's an A30 and my first car was an A35 but still great memories. Thank you so much.
That's really nice to read. A big part of the appeal of old cars is the memories they bring back. We have so many conversations with people about our various cars and bikes. I think that's why we like the lower spec cars, rather than the GTi type ones; people relate to our collection.
In 1965 at the age of 17, just passed my test, my Mum and Dad cancelled some of their " penny policies" with the Brittanic Insurance to buy me my Austin A35 what a wonderful car..... Keep up the good work it will give you joy back in spades ....
Thanks again for sharing, lovely little car.
Our pleasure. Thanks for watching ad commenting. It genuinely helps us out.
I had to watch part 2 as I'm intrigued as to whether this little Austin is going to come to life.
What a fantastic watch your videos are, keep up the great work Claire and Elton ❤
Thank you so much.
That Austin A30 is so cute. Love the shape of the car... with the paintwork I would leave it as it is, it adds character and charm. Can't wait for the next step.... G'day from Australia 🇦🇺
Cheers! It's nice to know that our little channel is getting viewed over there. My mum lives in South Australia...I reckon she's going round, telling everyone to watch us 😂- Elton
So gut, Austin my first Car.
My Grandmother had one of these from 54 to 88 (34 years), during which time, she drove a total of 8500 miles. (To the shops every two weeks).
Love this channel guys, this A30 could become the star of the show (apart from you two of course haha).
Thank you. That made us both smile 😊
Another great reaction . . Things seem to be coming along nicely . . Take care💐👍🇳🇿🇳🇿
Thank You for an another interesting video of the Austin project. I really think You do the things in the right order, with the goal to get the engine/car running. I look forward to the next episodes. One last thing: I like the subtle sense of humor you have, when working on the car. Greeting from Norway, and a proud owner of an 2cv which I have restored to usable condition.
Thank you for the comment. We do really enjoy the Austin A30, so I’m glad the lightheartedness comes across. It’s nice to have a car that both Claire and I can work on together and we always try to have fun in life. We really must do some more work on our own 2CV, too. They’re great cars.
Points and condesers too. I found my a30 the gap was very narrow to run well but that my just be a quirk of my 70year old boy
Please don't change the coil unless it's faulty. It's a very rare early 1950's Lucas coil. Be careful with the 4inch cardboard pipe which is the air intake for the heater. They are like gold dust as are the smaller ones going into the cabin and very delicate.
When you get it too running again. You can put mineral spirits in with the oil about a quart and let it idle for a long while until it quits smoking. It frees up the piston rings. Cleans out the carbon deposits.
That's what it's all about bringing the ole girl back ! Carb looks to be okay as throttle and choke move freely, looking forward to the next episode guys. Cheers
Thank you. I hope I don't have to get as deep in as you are with your project. Some intense work you're doing over there! We've just subscribed to your channel 👍
@UKBarnFinds You never know with cars ! One thing leads to another when you start fixing cars you can't stop.. and yeah I got my hands full ! The Stag is going well here in Australia. Had the travel time from Milton Keynes to west London down to 45 minutes in my old stag..those were the days..cheers guys all the best.
My first car was a 1953 Austin A30 which had been purchased new by my father, a US Naval officer, when we were stationed in Norway after the war. Dad bought it because he didn’t like military jeeps. It was left hand drive so he could eventually import it and use it as a family car in the US. I helped my brother rebuild the engine some time in the mid-sixties when I would have been about twelve years old. Eventually I inherited the car through my oldest sister and my oldest brother. I remember servicing the distributor quite often, putting new points in and adjusting the gap and the timing. When we moved to the US we had to decommission the flip-out turn indicators for some reason. The poor car was finally vandalized beyond repair in the early 70s. Maybe I’ll take a trip down memory lane and buy another one some day.
the parking light fits on the window not over the door as you have it
Just by way of info .. That air filter doesn't use a paper element, it is in fact a gauze type which you see on the front end of it. Clean it with paraffin or petrol and then oil the gauze with engine oil. The oil sticks to the gauze and collects the micro particles.
How do I know this ? .. Ex BL trained mechanic who has worked on and serviced the A30 and in fact, I still probably have some service details on the model and even models going back to the 1930's
My dad had an A35 - no heater - was a company car!
I have been a recent subscriber and nice to see an honest and nice channel with interesting content. Thank you for entertaining me and look forward for more to come.
Thank you. Reading that was a lovely start to a Sunday morning. We hope we can keep you entertained. We’re trying a few things, to ensure there’s variety, and what you see is what you get with Claire and I. Happy to show all the mistakes, as well as the good bits 😂
I am SO in love with that little car. My christmas wish (hopefully sooner than that), will be, for it to start and run :)
Ours, too! Thanks for being such a continued supporter of what we're doing. We appreciate it.
@@UKBarnFindsI wouldn't miss a beat, watching you 2 :) Btw. don't repaint it, it looks awsome as is, spots and all...
These are probably my favourite British car, we had one when I was a lad, and I would love to own one and restore it to it’s former glory. Really enjoying this run of videos 👍
@10.24, bridge the switch & see if they work, it could be the ball inside could just be stuck if the brake lights come on, by the way the club do resleeved brake master cylinders, frame cylinder & wheel cylinders (Stainless steel sleeved)
I can’t wait to try that now! I hope this rain stops over the weekend. It’s handy to know that so many of the parts are available.
Second time to your site. Very well done.
Esse pequeno Austin A30 é muito bonito. Acredito que esses carros não vieram para o Brasil. Até hoje só vi os A40 por aqui.
The air filter does not come apart, it’s a sealed unit. You clean this with an airline through the filters, wash it through with petrol, then air a small amount of oil to the gause filter. ( not to much..
I’d not replace the coil, I’d think that’s fine, change the points and condenser, along with Rota arm and cap. She will run.
Also check the two filters inside the carb bowl are not blocked, and the bowl will probably be full of old petrol dust, two 7/16 bolts takes it off.
A few people have said to leave the coil, so that’s what I’ll do for now. We’d like to keep as many of the original parts as possible. Thanks for the tips; the comments section has been far better than any Google search!
I'm as always enjoying the show. I like the A40 because it's got character. Let's list cars that have character; Mini, Beetle, Capri, PANHARD Dyna Z.
What a great little car , it's one of those better condition than it looks type car ,what a great find
I had a ‘56 A30 for a while in the late 80’s, it was a 2 door in the turquoise blue colour, with a metal sun visor over the windscreen. I sold it to a guy in East Kent and it would appear from DVLA records that it is still in use. The 803cc engine was the first use of the then new A Series unit by BMC.
Amazing that it’s still around! Have you tried searching the reg on Google images? You may find photos of it.
Side light bulbs were bulb number type 501 bayonet cap
Probably the brake light switch will also be OK. More likely that the master cylinder is seized and not making pressure.
Wonderful channel, wonderful A30. 👍👍
Thank you. We’ve got some wonderful people watching our videos, too. It really helps.
Pull the distributor cap off and clean the points, then check the coil with a multimeter or replace.
The Austin is just one year shy of my age ! Great find , cant wait to hear you try yo start it . I am in Arizona USA . Never seen one of those little guys around here . Scott 🌵
We’ve just had another guy in Arizona commenting. You need to set up an Austin A30 club there! 😂
This car is so tiny, even by Brit standards. I should think it would look hilarious next to an American car!
I just.love this little A30 jammy!!
@@UKBarnFindsEspecially next to a 1959 Buick Electra 225 at 18' 9" in length!
Try to earth the coil lead from the distributor see if it will spark then you know if the coil is ok. Check the points are gapped for a spark clean the rotor arm on the side of the tyre. Then you should get a spark at the plugs. All being well.❤😁
May be worth, getting extra engine oil & two filters. Run the engine, then drop the oil again.
Totally agree. Funnily enough, I’ve just done this on one of our other projects (the MK1 Fiesta). It’s a sensible thing to do. Thank you.
That air cleaner is a sealed unit. It's best just to clean it.
If I remember rightly (it's been 60 years) you dunk the wire mesh end in a bath of paraffin, drain it completely, then dunk it in motor oil and again let it drain completely. The bad particles in the air stick to the oil when the car's running.
Very educational - I would love to take on a project like this but don't have the confidence. Loved watching. A30/35 are my dream cars
"Freckles" rising from the ashes! YAY!
Brilliant video I had 3 A30
ATF and Diesel is a clever way to "unstick" things. Im currently trying to sort out a 1999 Ford Escort purchased from auction. Cheers.
Yeah, a few people suggested that mix and it was stuff we had hanging around in the workshop, so I thought it was worth a try. Good luck with your Ford. Is there much to do on it?
@@UKBarnFinds Ive put in a Luk brand clutch set. Sorting out some vacuum leaks. It currently drives and can get 37 MPG. Some body rust.
its only sleeplng, gently wake it up and it will be fine.i had one on a farm track back in the 70s.i thrashed it till it died, oh dear, i regrett it so much🤕
I’m almost sure that the distributor cap and rotor arm are the same as the original Mini engine. Also you could “borrow” the coil and condenser from the mini as well. They both use the A series engine, so it may be worth a look.
the earlier A30 had a simular cap to the Mini's but they are not quite the same, the very late A30's did have the Mini type fitted, if Elton can tell us the 5 digit distributor number i will be able to tell which cap it has
hi the brakes, require to be bleed up for the brake lights to work due to operate off a preasure switch.
I had a A35 great fun we went every where out here in NZ
We've had a few people comment from New Zealand, so I'm guessing quite a few were shipped out there. Or maybe they were even put together there? I need to do a bit of research on that.
They were assembled here by a company named Dominution motors in Auckland my mother made the interiors for them and the MINIs.@@UKBarnFinds
@@UKBarnFindsfor many years here in nz the only way to buy a car was to have overseas funds. Most of the Austin's post war were shipped out as knock down units from the UK so they had a nz assembly component. All UK export models were fitted with an oil bath aircleaner silencer which is wwhat I am trying to find for my 1955 a50
The A series engine is a tough little thing, capable of much more power than it had in the A30, and likely to be a good runner. At high mileage the weak point may be gearbox. One A30 I knew used to jump out of first if you lifted off to change gear and dipped the clutch. It belonged to a neighbour and my father drove it to demonstrate that if he revved it hard enough in first, he could make it jump straight into second gear!
i would be tempted to take the float lid off the carburettor and check for varnish and gunk before attempting to start it. Also, a seperate fuel supply (fuel Can) until you figure out whether the tank is full of rust or 1971 petrol 🙂 thats my 1/2 pence worth 🙂
I'm more interested in the Ford Zephyr, VEW 271 which we get a glimpse of at 8:36.
It's listed on DVLA as being 7600cc!
Yeah, that’s wrong. It’s nearer to 7700cc. 😂 468ci
@@UKBarnFinds Ooft!!!
Best to replace the coil and condenser, they do last for quite a while but not sure they'd last 50 plus years without being used. Best of luck.
Whilst investigating the ignition system, I’d be tempted to change the polarity to negative earth - with todays salty roads it’d vaporise that car in no time. It’s a simple job, can be a bit aggravating getting the generator flashed over to negative earth. But they’ll usually go. Used to love working on the A Series engines, simple and fairly reliable if you treat them right. I have one in my garage that I’ll be reconditioning at some stage (it’s out of a Mini so has the box with it) On the ignition, did these have the in line ballast resistor for the coil? Fingers crossed for the next part 🤞👍
It’s starting to annoy me how good you’re getting so quickly! 😂
Haha! Blame Claire. I just swear at old cars and she makes it mildly entertaining (I hope). 😂
P.S. I like your ‘on the road’ filming and need to learn a bit from you 👍🏻
@@UKBarnFindsthe presentation, editing, incidental music - it’s on a par with some of the shows on Quest and Dave!
@@UKBarnFindsoddly enough - I find talking to the camera whilst driving easier than standing in front of it - I guess when I’ve got something else to focus on I’m less self-conscious!
I get that. It's really weird, talking to a camera. We have occasions when it just won't come together. You can see why real actors and presenters have years of training.
your mini distributer fits it
The fuel pump is on the side of the engine on Passenger side, it’s a mechanical type.
Should have a primer lever, but usually they have snapped off. Be very careful with it if it still there.
There is a very small bolt on the top, unscrew that, and you will see a brass filter, lift that out, and you will probably see the body full of crap, clean that out, and replace filter back on.
Thank you. I’m popping into the workshop today and will have a look. If I spot it, I’ll give it a blast with WD40 penetrating oil and leave it until during the week. Everything has come apart surprisingly well so far.
If you take the wires off the brake light switch and join in together the lights should come on
OMG an old fashoned parking light i haven't seen one of those in years i remember my dad had an Austin A 40 i think you had to use them back in the day if you parked on a main road i remember my dad used to make sure ho used it when we visited my Nan she lived near Harwich police station he didn't want to get couight
Don't replace the coil as it's doubtful it's gone, if it's also the earlier dizzy the points are not the standard Mini type, i can see you have the Zenith 26VME C1511 carb on it
When you look at the horn start with removing the horn push from the centre of the steering wheel should just prise out inside you will find a brass ring a spring a wire contact coming up through the centre of the steering columb clean all these up and check the wire for continuity. one other thing you may encounter I think on those they had an electric fuel pump which you should hear when you switch on the ignition if you dont then its not working and will need looking at
Thanks. I'll have a try at sorting that horn and, maybe, the indicators next. If I can chip away at the little jobs one-by-one, it will all come together.
@5.57, pausing it looking at the engine number (SRA 3) it looks like it's a replacement maybe 'Gold Seal' factory one, the original engine number numbers should match up with the chassis number numbers
Yes, it does appear to be a gold seal replacement engine.
i think you know this but the external light clips on the window glass not the door frame
Funnily enough, I did put it there originally and got out-voted. I’m glad I was right. Thank you 😂 - Elton
@@UKBarnFindsSo how does that work without getting water running in though the window then?! 😂
the clip goes up into the window channel as the window is then wound back up
points maybe closed. clean and re cap
What do you guys do with these cars once you have brought them back? Do you sell anything that you have at all?
Thanks for your comment Ben. Yes we do sell cars although we do tend to keep a few 😂😂 The Austin A30 is definitely a keeper.
Have a look at a youtuber called junk yard digs, he does barn finds in America, I know the engines etc are bigger but he will show you how to clean / get working your points, coil's and hopefully get sparks, he all so show you how to rebuild carburates, it might give you a few ideas
Thank you. Just had a look and I recognised the face from having seen a few of his videos. We've now subscribed!
Oil bath air filter no need to open wash out with petrol the put someengine oil in a d let it drain before fitting
Thank you. First time I’ve seen one and I’m glad I didn’t go at it with a hammer 😳
Don’t forget the electric fuel pump on the bulkhead
Confused me now. There isn’t one.
Points and Condenser should be checked
Ah technology I grew up with 👴😎