How to replace clutch Toyota Echo Yaris
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In this indepth video we perform a clutch replacement on a 2005 Toyota Echo. Along with the clutch, we replaced the rear main seal and driveshaft seals.
please note. the transmission might be able to be removed without taking the subframe off, but we remove the subframe for clearance.
If you need to search for parts. Feel free to check out RockAuto.com I find they have a good variety of stock and pricing for auto parts. I have no affiliation with them. I occasionally order parts from them when I don't need them urgently.
Good luck with your repairs. Feel free to comment or ask questions and I'll try to answer to the best of my abilities. Cheers
I am about to do this same job on my 04 echo. I was watching this video with headphones on and your dog scared the sh#t out of me.
Thanks for posting!
LOL. Sorry about that.. I'll try to edit the volume for that next time.
Thanks for posting this! I just finished doing the clutch on an 2001 Echo. The video was a huge help.
awesome. i love hearing this. How long did it take you to complete the job?
Way too long, lol I live in CT so it was a major battle with rusted hardware. One bolt for the Rack I had to come back to the next day after soaking with penetrating oil and one clamp for the sway bar had to be pried open because that bolt was stuck too. It will be quicker in the future. I'd say about 15 to 20 hours. A lot of work and time but it didn't need to be done anytime soon.
@@DamionStLouis Great to hear that you stuck with it even with all the trouble. Thank you for your feedback and reply. It'll be a great referrence for others.
@@DamionStLouisI'm about to do the same thing to the same vehicle. Any suggestions or pointers
Awesome video brotha! It was interesting to watch someone else doing the same job! Happy Holidays to you and your family!
Thank you. Hope the video was helpful
Thankyou for taking time out of you life to help others avoid a lot of mistakes. I know you could've knocked this job out way faster if you weren't explaining. Cheers mate.
Thank you for your kind words. I hope it was able to help you.
Finally someone who knows what an empty oil etc container is for all I needed to see to know this guy's the real deal and knows his stuff 👏
So much more easier to simply remove the top spindle bolt from strut to slide splindle and remove axel
If that's the way you prefer to do it. I opted to remove it that way as the spindle stayed connected to the strut.. with the process of removing the subframe and keeping the spindle attached... I would have had to remove the brakes/caliper... disconnect the abs sensors. Either way is fine. I just prefer this way. Cheers.
This is a great video ! Seen another guy remove the radiator and support frame for no reason! Yours is so straight forward and simplified! Keep the videos coming cheers from 🇦🇺
Love your work Tinman! Really helped me out with my clutch replacement. Did you have to align the subframe and steering rack when bolting back on? My steering has gotten very heavy after replacement and steering wheel is slightly off center.
Thanks for your comment. Sorry for late reply, never noticed the comment till now. Hope you solved your issue by now. As a reply to your question... the steering column didn't separate from the rack, so steering alignment wasn't affected. I'm guessing your rack had separated from the column through the firewall... so it became misaligned when you reinstalled the rack. You'll probably need to undo the steering joint and just reclock the the steering wheel straight. Hope you were able to figure it out. Cheers.
I'm at the point where I've pulled down the steering sub-assembly...and removed the rear engine mount. Once I'm here, the rest really isn't that hard. All the hardest bolts are loosened...or ground off...lol. Only had to grind two times, so not too bad for an 18 yr old car that likely has never had a clutch done yet. Your video has been really helpful. Hoping the steering rack goes into place properly when I reassemble. It's really sagging...and I'm hoping it doesn't disconnect where the steering wheel connects to it. Just taking my time right now, as I want to paint the sub-assembly with por-15, as it's pretty rusty. Also ordered a new rear engine mount, as I had to grind off part of a bolt....and gonna replace the sway bar bushings...just because. Nice to renew some of the bolts, in case I need to do this job again down the road....as I love driving this car hard...with the 5 speed manual tranny....lol.
Great to hear of your progress. Perhaps you can use a bungee cord to hold up the rack so it doesn't dangle too much. I forget when the steering rack column just slips in or bolted in like some Hondas. Yes. These are really fun cars to drive. Cheers.
@@UncleTinman Bungee cord isn't a bad idea. I think I'll try seeing if I can hook one up tomorrow morning. From watching another video, I do think the steering column is bolted to the steering rack...so my worry might be nothing. It was on another video where the guy unbolts the steering column and removes the sub-frame with the steering rack still attached to it. I'd rather not have to worry about lining up the steering column to the sub-frame,, so I prefer your method. I notice that you didn't have any power steering hoses on the vehicle you worked on, as they normally are clamped to the back of the sub-frame. I had a leaking power steering unit, so removed the belt...lol....so I have manual steering, but the car was not intended that way. I'm hesitant, though, to remove the power steering hoses. Just left everything there, although they gotta be pushed around a bit to get the sub-frame back in place.
@@joeidaho5938 I try to leave power steering hoses Intact to minimize a potential mess.
@@UncleTinman Thanks. Ya....I could see the pitfalls if I tried to remove them....lol.
@@UncleTinman Hey, do you happen to remember if there is a bolt that goes up vertically at the bottom, that ties the engine to the tranny? I thought I had all the horizontal bell housing bolts removed, including the starter...but got no separation, even though the tranny mount is not connected...and the jack under the tranny was loose, and I tried to pry with a crowbar. I can see a bolt entering vertically at the bottom...and that's the only possibility I found. I will likely try loosening it tomorrow and hoping for separation. Everything else seems to be disconnected.
This is a great video buddy, just what we needed, also you change some pieces that I was not expecting to change so I am glad I see it. Also I have a slight difficult when shifting to 4th gear is like when I am fully pressing the clutch the I have to apply a little bit of force for 4th gear to get in, it stays there no problem and when shifting from 4th gear is easy and with no problem
Did u try double clutching vicente?
I like 👍 your work 👍 good
Lol so, after all the explaining up to unboxing the clutch. You didn't explain if the clutch is sided or not, torque for the bolts and what you were doing with the release bearing. You've upset me now! 😒 you pulled out the birthday cake and i never got a taste. Tutut
Thanks for this great tutorial! My Echo was passed along to me because it is so rough on the outside, but underneath it looks showroom fresh and all the bolts have easily backed out without a problem! I'm gonna send it!!!
You must be located in a nicer climate than me. Good luck with it. Cheers.
thanks for such an in depth video, ive been studying this for a few weeks to prepare to do my clutch, in ontario as well so it will be a battle with the rust
Thanks for your comment.. Good luck with your battle
took awhile to notice you responded. i took on the job with only suspension experience and it took me about 3 weeks to do it alone working about 6 hours a day! was definitely a battle with rust, and a few broken bolts, but they were not important. in my opinion it went perfect! thanks again for the tutorial, it helped a ton! more so than some of the pdf manuals online which can be confusing, but also held the torque specs! it was a piece of cake, and i used a cheapo ebay clutch which somehow is still going strong after some 12,000 kms!
Lot of work for a little clutch!
Yea. No kidding.
First you have to remove the battery, battery tray, gearbox loom and remove top gearbox bolt, but leave 2 bolt underneath the gear remove the front left passenger side wheel and driver side front wheel and 2 left and right bolt from shocks that connect to the knuckle hub, and drain the gearbox oil and remove the both driver shaft and remove the last 2 bolt underneath the gear and gearbox is out. 😊
You can tell his mechanical process is good when he basically follows the service manual step for step just off his intuition alone.
Great content.
Actually. I didn't look at the service manual. I only looked it up AFTER the fact when someone commented about being able to remove without removing the subframe.
I wanted to make sure I wasn't misinforming people with unnecessary work.
Gearbox can be removed without removing the subframe.
I'm sure it can be, but it looked really tight and minimal spacing. This video is just the process we used. Thanks.
@@UncleTinman that's OK but why do extra work that is unnecessary?
@@davidking2994 There really didn't look like there was enough clearance. The Mitchell manual says to remove as well. If you were able to do it without removing it.. Great for you. Cheers.
why didn't you use the transmission jack to lower the subframe?
The transmission jack platform isn't very wide. It's easier to just have it sit on milk crates. Much more stable and balanced.
@@UncleTinman I made a platform out of plywood that i bolt to the transmission jack
@@glenwhitestofer6420 that's a great idea. I don't use my transmission jack enough to really to have a need for a platform.
G'day...I'm a mechanic & you did this perfect. Good clear step by step vid mate. That K member has seen some salt roads hey.
Thanks for your comment... apologies for my late reply. Yes. That K member definitely has seen some better days. The life of living in Toronto, Canada.
@@UncleTinman I live in Victoria so was a lot easier without the rust.
@@glenwhitestofer6420 anything over 10yrs old are really rusty.
@@UncleTinman Had a 2 year old yaris from ottawa show up with a rusted out gas tank
@@glenwhitestofer6420 that's pretty extreme for a 2yr old car.
Thanks for the video. Great effort. This makes me rethink if I should buy a Yarris :-D.
Thanks for you reply... Glad to help.
Hi do these cars have a dual mass flywheel or single as i need to change my clutch soon and one mechanic told me it is a dual mass. My car is a Yaris 2003 tspirit model.
Very Helpful, we are about to head into this job on my sons car, and this has been very helpful.
Thank you.. I'm very glad to hear.
Hey Tinman,
Are you sure, that the subframe has to be removed?
Thx1
It's been a very long time since I did this. From what I remember, there wasn't enough clarence for the transmission without removing the subframe. Hope this helps.
Great Video Thanks For Sharing.
Just tent the gearbox it will go out without taking the subframe
Good job
Awesome video!! How long did it take you roughly? I wish I had a lift to do it to my Yaris... most shops want $2k!!!
I don't recall, but I think around 8hrs. Hope this helps
Since when yaris has a clutch?
@@iqbalarman3819 alot of cars outside of North America come in manual.
I did the same, but the clutch is slack, presses without any force and would not shift into gears. First it just about shifted with force, but now its completely gone. What could it be?
I would check to see if the hydraulic slave cylinder if installed properly or functioning properly. Perhaps it needs to be bled. That would be the first step I would take to finding the issue.
@@UncleTinman thanks man, it's just right after bleeding (y)
Thank you so much for shared, this is very helpful. I'm about to do the same thing to the same vehicle.
Wow man, talk about the right way, it's this vs struggling out / in lol the right way vs the lazy way. Thank you
i am thinking of replacing the clutch my self as we speak due to it slipping a few times between 40-60kms, usual about in 3rd gear- 4th not sure if the clutch is for sure going but with 330,000kms on the original clutch on my 04 echo its safe to say the clutch is due for a change... ive found a clutch kit at my local cheap parts guy in london ontario for around 220 ~ wondering if thats a fair price also was wondering if i should try to drain the tranny fluid and re fill to see if it was just bad and burnt fluid before tackles this... also the car/frame is rotting as its seen some winters haha! get back to me with ur thoughts! tia :D enjoy the videos keep them up!
The slippage is more than likely due to the clutch.. especially since it has 330k.. the trans fluid wouldn't affect slippage... I personally only use Exedy clutches.. I've had bad experiences with "cheap" clutches. Good luck with the job.
@@UncleTinman thanks for the fast reply! i didnt think it was due to the fluid my self just and older friend told me its worth a shot but figured im wasting my time going that rout... that being said i have alot of body rust/rot ( fenders,rockers, hood and the rear wheel well where the coil is about to rot through and it currently has a tube of calking around it to stop it leaking in my rear seat lol. im thinking i should just leave the clutch and drive it till it dies lol... seems like the clutch is a bit of work when ive never done one. i also dont have a hoist lol and for the condition of the car.. not sure if its worth changing.....
@@LilWade42069 I guess drive it gingerly till you can't drive it anymore and then get another one
@@LilWade42069 since you are in Ontario, next vehicle protect under against the salt.
I did when living in Ontario. Don't remember the company that apply a protective coating against the salt....unfortunatelly
Great video ! That dog barking made me think it was my dog so I went out and told him to sit down 😂
LOL. Thanks for the reply. Made me smile. My buddy is no longer around. I'm glad I have these recordings with him in them. Great memories.
@@UncleTinman that’s sad mate , my best friend is 20 years old he’s a little mini foxy cross Chou , he’s not going to be with us much longer , he’s been so close to me over the past 10 years he’s my go to when the chips are down going to be a hard world without him
Thank you
Very good job 👍
How long would you say it took you to do this job? Im only asking because I need mine done and am being quoted ridiculous prices and hours
I don't recall what the service manual calls for. It's probably a 4-5hr job.
@@UncleTinman 16 hour re and re according to shops. I did it in about 12
@@MrBuffed001 16hrs sounds outrageous. Good for you on tackling the job. Did the video help?
Hi that is really helpful with this video and very appreciated for your hard effort and a good explanation, i have only one problem.
in your video you pointed at 12.18 minutes about the back bolt being stuck with pinion rack and don't letting it come off. you mentined
prying it,i tried every method to pry it but it is still stuck. any idea what is the but solution. thanks
Thanks for your reply. I'm glad it has been helpful thus far. As for the bolt getting stuck. Do you have access to a torch? If so try using it to free up those bolts. Chance are they're stuck cause of corrosion. If all else fails.. I think the only solution would be to drop the steering rack with that subframe. In order to do that you'll need to disconnect the tie rod ends from the spindles, the U joint from the steering column and all the hoses connected to the rack. It'll get a bit messy with all the power steering fluid unless you have a manual rack. Hopefully you dont have to resort to that process. Good luck.
@@UncleTinman thanks for the reply. i tried the torch no go. I am not working on the cluch, i am trying to put new sub frame
free of rust, my old one was so rusty, it did break by right arm.
@@benghez5608 hmmm. There's no other way to remove the bolt other than trying to torch and pry. You can try hammering the bolt, but that'll surely damage the threads.. if anything thread a nut back on the bolt before hammering. If all else fails you might have to cut the bolts off and replace. Good luck.
@@UncleTinman Hi thanks again, i did do like you suggested. my problem now is after i swapped the subframe, the suspenssion control arm bolts did not fit the subframe, it was very loose. The whole facing the oil pan.The manufactor date for My car toyota echo 03/05 and swapped subframe is from manufactor date 05/03. I ordered a new bolt for toyota later date 05/03. Now the bolt is to big for the control arm whole. my question is, since i changed the subframe (05/03) would that be ok to replace the control arms with 05/03 or later date for the original toyota 03/03? Would not affect the driving?
Thanks
@@benghez5608 hmm. That's interesting. As long as the control arm is of the same dimensions, it should be fine. You can try cross referencing images on rockauto.com. if they look similar, then chances are it should work. Hope this helps.
Great video! Excellent.
Hi! Thank you for the video! You're rock!
One question, why do you burn the nuts/screws with the torch? Thanks!
Thanks for your reply.
I torch the nuts cause they're rusted and seized. I'm located in Toronto, Canada. In the winter we use salt to melt the snow on the roads which causes alot of rusting of cars and their components.
Hope this helps answer your question.
@@UncleTinman Hi from the West coast, Vancouver!
I'm struggling with a nut for transmission pan, and I'll try to use your method to get it out.
Cheers!
@@villiam2696 ah fellow canuck. Yes, try some heat. Works wonders.
Why wouldn't you have just pulled the motor ?
Is the clutch fluid in the same reservoir as the brakes? Having troubles locating the clutch fluid on my 2004 Toyota echo
Yes. They share the same reservoir. You can also try to follow the line back from the slave cylinder to double check. Hope this helps.
Great job, is it the 1.5 engine, in the UK it's the Toyota Yaris T sport. Would it be the same principle of removal I have hydraulic steering, do you know where I could get the PDF service manual.
I believe it would be the same process. Not sure about a PDF service manual. Have you tried searching online?
Great informative video.
Got put onto your video by a mate who's about to do this job on his 1.3 Echo. I have a 1.5 Echo, and I'm thinking I'll be looking at doing my clutch in the not too distant future.
I've got the tools to do the job, but lacking the motivation at my age, 53 and no car lift. Been there and done that in the past, but not a front drive before. Our steering wheel is on the other side of the car to you guys, so I'm guessing there'll be a few differences because of that also.
Melbourne, Australia.
Thank you for the reply from the land down under... love it. I have family in Sydney, but it's been a long time since I've visited.
Maybe your mate will be able to assist you on the job. I hear what you mean about working on the car without a lift.... definitely not fun. Hope you're able to get it figured out. Cheers Mate.
@@UncleTinman. Thanks for the reply.
Years ago we did help each other out all the time when working on our cars, but alas, not to be any more. I live in Melbourne, and he now lives the other side of Brisbane. At least 4 days drive away.
@@SirDaffyD wow.. 4days. Need to find a local buddy. Maybe there are enthusiasts groups around your area.
@@UncleTinman. You say you've been to Sydney. Sydney is around 10 hours from Melbourne. My mate lives around 22 hours the other side of Sydney from me. Just giving you an idea.
Will see how I go re finding someone into cars near me.
@@SirDaffyD I just looked on a map.. yes. It's definitely quite the distance. Good luck with your project.
I fitted a new clutch in my Yaris 2003 1.5 VVTi. After assembling what not lol. I couldn't get the gears to engage. The gearbox made crunching noises.
I'm wondering if I can reuse the same clutch and just flip it around the right side? I've a suspicion that I made a booboo.
@@redseantlworld OH man... that's very possible. So basically it's constantly engaged. You can see if it'll switch gears while the engine is off... if it shifts and can find the gears.. next you can try starting it in a gear... make sure you're clear of running into anything... if it tries to drive/move as you crank... then more than likely the clutch disc is reversed and engaged.
Unfortunately, there's so remedy other than to drop the transmission and redo it.
If it's any consolation... I've done the same before on a car 10x worse to do.... FD RX7... so... take a breath and shake it off... It was quite the lesson and I always remember to double check now.
Hope you figure it out... please do come back and let us know the outcome.
Cheers. HAPPY HOLIDAYS
@@UncleTinman Yes. I fitted it the wrong way. It read gearbox side clearly as I carefully lowered the clutch plate assembly. Damn. Now I'm faced with a few stripped bolt holes and I have to thread those as best as possible. I'm looking at a lot of Newtons of force pushing against those critical bolts. So obviously can not choose a sloppy method either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Fortunately the clutch didn't suffer any serious physical damage. Just a mere light scuff on the clutch springs.
@@redseantlworld thanks for the update. Sorry to hear. Which threads are stripped? Depending which holes and location, you can possibly drill next size up and re-tap for the next bolt size.. another method would be to do thread inserts/helicoils.
Did you have to mess with the steering shaft to get the undercarriage down?
The steering rack was unbolted from subframe and left hanging in the car.
@@UncleTinman Thanks. In another video the guy was prying the steering shaft down with the subframe from the interior. I hoped I wouldn't have to go there. Cheers.
I guess you can that as well, but then youd have to realign the steering afterwards which can be annoying. I prefer to unbolt the rack from the subframe whenever it's not too difficult.
Did he include the amount of time it took him to do this start to finish? trying to see how long this job takes for pricing
sorry. Didn't keep track of timing since so much time is wasted with setting up camera etc. I'm guessing it would take about 8hrs to do the job.
Is this a manual transmission, right?
Yes.
Do you have to drain the transmission fluid?
We replace the fluid whenever doing a clutch replacement. The fluid doesn't need to be drained, but I recommend draining a bit just so that it doesn't leak all over..or you can try to plug it up and it'll be fine.
You have to drain the fluid as it will leak when disconnecting the drive shafts.
Waqar Ditta makes it lighter and you also won’t have it leaking everywear
5:30 There is an indentation on the axle nut. Do you need to straighten it first?
Yes.. there is an indentation. Most of the time the impact gun will be able to remove the nut without straightening. But we sure to hammer it back when you put it back. As that indent is meant to prevent the nut from loosening from vibration.
@@UncleTinman I see. Thank you!
NP. Feel free to message if you have any questions
@@UncleTinman Thank you very much! I have just successfully pulled the transmission out and is deciding whether to change the rear main seal. Mine is 10 yrs old with 150K miles. Shall I replace it as a preventive maintenance or leave it along? Is it hard to install the seal without special tools?
Great video! How can I send you a small token of my appreciation?
Thank you. Wow. That would be a first.
If you want to mail something. You can send it to:
1271 Kennedy Rd.
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1P2L4
Thanks.
@@UncleTinman Do you like coffee? Do you have a favorite store? I'm going to the Congo in March for work ... Want something from there?
@@WallaceRoseVincent you are too kind. I don't drink coffee, but you know what would be really cool? I collect casino chips. If there's one from there or wherever you're located that would be super cool..
Check out my instagram page.
instagram.com/uncletinman/?hl=en
@@UncleTinman You got it. Tohono O'odham Indian casinos here. That's easy.
@@UncleTinman Thank you so much for your work!
Greetings from Vancouver!
Hello,
Recently, I bought Toyota Yaris 2007, 1.3 VVT-i, MT, Engine: 2SZFE, French build, LHD, 114 000 km.
I've a problem with the clutch pedal biting point, which is fully down to the floor for all of the gears. Sometimes when I try to shift into Reverse (even if the clutch pedal is fully depressed) a grinding noise is heard when I move the gear shift. If I push the pedal fully down on the floor, shift into 1st gear and release the pedal even 1-2 mm higher than the floor, I can feel that the car starts moving. Sometimes when I drive and switch from 1-st to 2-nd gear, the shifting of the gear is a bit difficult (the pedal must be strongly pressed fully to the floor). My leg gets tired after a long drive and sometimes I cannot make such a presure, so the difficult shifting problem appears.
The pedal free play is around 17-18 mm. The push road play is 7-8 mm. The pedal height from the floor seems to be OK (It's a bit higher than the brake pedal). I can depresss the pedal fully to the bottom on the floor. When relased, the pedall gets back to its highest position normally. The pedal is not soft.
The clutch has never been replaced. Service technicians said that I need a new clutch. I asked them if bleeding is needed, but they said that the clutch fork mooving is quite well far, so the hydraulic system is OK, and bleeding can even worse the problem. Here is how the clutch fork looks like when the pedall is fully released and fully depresed:
drive.google.com/file/d/1Bd1y0MzWDXWIQeLhFrjiWu2JNkG9-veH/view
I was wondering if the pedall free play rod can be adjusted, but I can't seen any adjustments on my master cylinder. Please see the left part of the figure bellow:
drive.google.com/file/d/1wzsue-fkHt-FGJeaFHPUFynZFSDBeAdH/view
Can you give me an advice?
Thanks for your reply.. The pic of the slave cylinder movement looks OK... from the sounds of it your clutch disc might be worn out.. as well as the excessive pressure from the pressure plate may signify replacing. Perhaps get a second opinion from another reputable service technician you trust. hope this helps. cheers.
@@UncleTinman Thankyou for your reply!
The clutch is already changed. The new one makes the pedal softer (the rear gear switching is also OK), but the release point is now very high. I still can not get used to since there is a huge difference than the previous release point. Is it normal? Can it be somehow adjusted (may be a new master cylider with adjusting nut)?
@@nikolayneshov6120 you'll have to see if you can source a master that has an adjustable rod. I'm not familiar with replacement parts
where u live alot of rust on ur car
I live in Canada
@@UncleTinman i think my clutch needs done i have just under 310k on my 4door sedan... thinking of tackling this job my self as i need to replace the wheel barring as well on the drivers side so if i need to remove most of that to get at the transmission then i may as well replace the clutch! is this the same steps and what not for a 2004 echo!?? where are you at in canada im in sw ontario and my car is rusting bad too haha
@@LilWade42069 I'm located in Scarborough, Ontario. The sedan should be the same setup. So if you follow the video it should give you a good idea of how to do it. Cheers.
@@UncleTinman Right on, I am from the London area!!! The Ontario winters are brutal on the Cars with all the salt! Anyways ill be sure to watch this video a couple more times before i tackle my clutch!! Just watched your wheel barring replacement video, which is something i will be doing this week.. I unfortunately have no press so hoping my local shops will do it for next to nothing haha! Thanks for all the FREE how to content!!! Keep the VIDEOS coming!!! cheers
@@LilWade42069 thank you for your compliments. I make them to help guys like you to try and tackle the job. Good luck.
Great job!
Thank you
Man that was one awesome video, so impressed with the simplicity of filming and the ease at which you did it. Pls keep it up, especially videos to do with clutch, timing, water pump, head gasket issues.