Performing an Electrical Inspection According to the InterNACHI® SOP
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Subscribe to our RUclips Channel: www.youtube.co... In this part of the nine-part video series on home inspections, follow along with Certified Professional Inspector® Ray Kline as he inspects the electrical system of a home according to InterNACHI's Home Inspection Standards of Practice.
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Missed that the circuit breakers were not labeled. The SOP does not require removal of the front panel cover, but double neutrals and aluminum wiring is a must have observation. I also check to make sure the breakers specially the A/C are the proper amperage, I have seen 60 amp breakers on heat pumps that require a maximum breaker of 35 amps this is considered unsafe.
Great feedback, Manuel. Agreed. Thanks for watching our videos.
Thank you for great video. As for testing GFCI I use tester to show a real-world problem.
Thanks for sharing!
Neat video and very informative, thanks! However, he refers to being "grandfathered" in several times. InterNACHI drills into you, in several courses, that there is no such thing. CPIs are to inspect according to CURRENT standards and best practices. They refer to code a lot as well, which was another point that was to be avoided according to the InterNACHI coursework.
Great information and nice folks, regardless. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the info! Thank you for watching and commenting. More videos are at www.nachi.org/webinars
Gotta say, pretty concerned about how easily this guy places his hands inside the box... being comfortable with electricity is one thing, but for those new inspectors out there, this is not a good way to present the information... this stuff can kill you. Remember future Inspectors, always make safety a priority #1
Shaun Agreed. Immediate failure.
“Remember to be very, very careful. This is energized equipment.”
[Just completed fingering the entire inside of the panel]
@@Joe_S.Hahaha, I was cringing the entire time
Good comment. Ray is a licensed electrician and he goes beyond the standards of practice, as most inspectors do.
Yep. We understand. But many home inspectors pull off the dead front, just like I did for 10,000 home inspections. I want to see inside. So did my client.
We don't use aluminum wire anymore, we use an Aluminum Alloy wire called AA8000.
This alloy does not require the use of NOALOX. NEC does not require the use of NOALOX.
We don't use aluminum, but home inspectors look for it.
Does the garage where the fuse box is need to have a smoke detector/carbon moxie sensor?
It's amazing how cavalier the inspector is to being exposed to energized live parts. Good example of what not to encourage the public to do. Novalox is not a nec requirement since 1987 when the aluminum alloy was corrected.
He's a master electrician.
I am a new inspector, and i have heard mutliple say removing the dead front is not required, but everyone seems to do it anyway. Is this just an unwritten rule that everyone does it even thought its not required? Is it that customers just expect it so inspectors do it?
Do not practice what you feel is a safety issue to you !
Hi, James. You're permitted to remove the dead front. The standards do not require its removal. But you may exceed the standards. It's up to you. Here's a good article on that point: www.nachi.org/exceed-or-not-exceed.htm
If a panel does not have a main disconnect, isn’t there supposed to be no more than six throws?
Correct.
Deox is not required per code and it’s optional, wire manufacturers coat their wire with deoxidazing c
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Deox is not required and if you can see it it is not installed properly. The ONLY recognized test of a GFCI or AFCI is the button on the device itself---never the button on a third party tester. A second recep for a countertop is not required unless it is over 9 square feet.
Got it.
@@internachi again, what does “got it” mean?
Correct me if I am wrong but there are no requirements for Arc Fault or GFCI breakers in the panel. Also the panel cover is painted, should that be unpainted and grey?
AFCI and GFCI are only required after a certain age of house/panel. Check local listings. And there is nothing wrong with painting the exterior of a panel. Exterior only.
Hi, Jay. Good question. I think I understand your question. Home inspectors are not code inspectors. Many home inspectors inspect a home without much regard to the age of the house. That's because a defect is a defect. And since a defect could hurt someone, "grandfathering" is nearly meaningless.
You shouldn’t test gfci outlets using the built in test button. The test button does not produce an actual ground fault it just opens the gfci outlet circuit and does not necessarily confirm that the gfci is functioning correctly.
Problem with a painted cover it's hard to see if a problem.
How many hands did that Panal Have?
Not sure.
Dude not worried bout that deadfront being energized....
It's always a concern. Safety first. Go home at the end of the day - #1 rule.
FAIL: Subpanel must not have a main bonding jumper.
Deox is not required by Code or cable manufacturer.
FAIL: Main breaker in main panel should be marked "service disconnect".
FAIL: there is no grounding locknut on the conduit in the main panel coming from the meter socket.
FAIL: the conduit in the main panel is required to be sealed because it goes from exterior of building to interior of building.
FAIL: no mention of grounding electrodes to ground rod or water pipe.
GFCI test button on receptacle is only approved method of testing.
Depending on code when installed, only receptacles within 6' of sink are required to be GFCI. Later codes require all countertop receptacles to be GFCI and/or AFCI protection.
grounding locknut only required if any of the concentric rings are left. Hard to tell but looks like they have all be removed.
Got it.
@@internachi Got what? Can you actually comment on the issues presented? Or are they all non issues? Is there a main bonding jumper present, is that the small green clamp and screw?
@@edwinjenkins1894 Sub panels should not have the ground and neutral bonded together at any sub panels, only at the main. The claim "Subpanel must not have a main bonding jumper." The video clearly shows him pointing to the ground "bonded" to the enclosure. That is NOT a problem. That is correct. It's the next thing he says that's important. He then says it is "Isolated" from the neutral. That is also correct. As long as the neutral is isolated from the ground it's fine. This house is little odd in that their main breaker is in a separate location acting like an old disconnect switch, so it's that main breaker panel that will have the ground and neutral together.
I didnt see a legend
Right.
Lots of misinformation in this video. Scary.
You can send them to ben@internachi.org.
I can read! If you're going to do a slow crawl and read just as slowly I'm going elsewhere.
So sorry to see you go, grskly4dfbz.
If I saw an inspector wearing a vest like that, I would take a shot of whiskey
Bourbon.