Big Lathe Restoration - Takisawa 14 X 30
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2020
- In this video I do some rehab to this 1980 - 2600lb Takisawa TSL-800D Lathe, and put it back into service.
Thanks to Pferd Abrasives for the awesome wire wheels and Roloc pads I used to strips the layers of old paint down!
Below are some links to tools I used in this project.
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2 Axis DRO: ( Comes in many sizes)
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Pferd Wire Wheels for 1/4" Shank:
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Pferd CombiDiscs:
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Check out the Lincoln Electric Power Mig 140MP, great for the home shop, Mig, TIG, and Stick in 1 machine!
→ bit.ly/pm140_mp_ycz
Thank you to Pferd abrasives for supporting my shop and my channel. For links to some of the grinding discs I use most see below:
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→ Flap disc:
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→ Inside corner disc (AMAZING):
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→ Wire Wheel:
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Thanks for watching! Be careful, know the limits of your skills and your tools! Don't try this stuff at home!
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We teach classes in woodworking and welding here at the shop, if your interested see the current schedule here.
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For PDFs of some of our project check out our profile on Instructables:
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Below are some links to tools I use in the shop on a daily basis.
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→ Bosch Miter Saw ( My Favorite miter saw)
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→ Sawstop Table Saw:
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→ Wen Tabletop Metalcutting Bandsaw
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→ Articulated Vise:
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→ Bosch Portable Bandsaw ( 18V)
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→ Porter Cable Restorer:
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→ Lincoln 120V Welder ( good for a home shop)
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→ The Camera I use:
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→ The Tripod I use:
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The two lift points were correct. The reason it pivoted was due to the third strap you used from the lift hook through the straps that went to the lifting points and back to the hook. Great restoration and upgrade to both the lathe and your shop.
Gem Slate Actually the picture from the manual shows different length straps directly to the hook. Of the straps are the same length it would still be crooked.
The strap towards the head stock should be shorter than the tail stock side.
The idea applies to most machines.
Nice work buddy! You Need to make a saddle out of wood to cover the ways when you swap out the chuck, 👍🏻👌🏻
i really love sitting down with my feet up
spliff in hand
and watching someone work
Good choice on a lathe. I've been a machinist for over twenty years, worked with many machines, all the big brands, and Takisawa were one of the machines that surprised me with their good build quality and stout construction, both for their manual and CNC lathes.
Does anyone know if Takasawa still makes manual lathes in 2023? I can't find any information.
I know it's been over a year but they do still make them and there is a dealer in the US that imports them if I remember right there in California@@dangrimes5078
Nice Job !
I would strongly recommend to change the Way Wipers and check the Oil Pump in the Carriage.
There should be one to lube the Bed an Cross-Slide.
On first read I thought you said windscreen wipers.
Great video! This lathe is very similar the Goodway (Taiwan) that I recently bought. It weighs 3500 lbs and I had to take practically every thing off of it to get the weight down low enough to move it into my garage. I will soon be doing the same kind of restoration work you showed here. Thanks for all the great tips. Mine is about the same age and has just about as many coats of paint. I think that the orange is the primer coat. I'm now a new subcrsiber. Thanks !
Using the aluminum is great because it has less "Harmonics" then steel. Great job , reminds me of End of year Machine shop in Sewanhaka High school when we repainted the machines for the next year classes. I was available to help. Stay well Chris
Dry ice blasting is amazing!
You can rent the equipment and just take it outside or put up plastic sheeting...the dry ice just evaporates, and won't hurt the ways or precision parts...really makes hash of the greasy stuff and most old paint.
That depth of cut is so rock solid. Thank you, I would have not known how nice a lathe that is. I am in awe of their excellent design/functionality. So envious!! We definitely want to see all there is to see with your future endeavours!!
Awsome job. I used to operate one back in the 90s we used to make electronic components cruise boats amazing machine broke memories back I hope you can have fun with it awesome job
Very cool! I have the same lathe and it's currently half-way through a CNC conversion. Can't wait to see what you do with yours!
Nothing much better than restoring a machine of any kind. Good work and I have also done a few of "" Don't Do This At Home "" moves.. Peace..
That DRO really adds value and repeatability. Nice work.👍
I ran this exact lathe model for 7 yrs in a machine shop!! There good machines!!
I had a TSL800 and as I recall it had a D1-4 spindle mount. Loved that lathe, even though it had some wear on the ways near the chuck.
Chris I absolutely loved this style of presentation, especially your logical commentary. At first I was hoping for a full restore but your reasoning won me over very quickly.
As for background noise I feel everything was just right but maybe, as others have stated, for clarity sake, you might want to turn that down just a little.
I have every reason to believe you're fully capable of doing a 100% restore, if and when called for.
Subscribed and looking forward to viewing your entire video library. Cheers.
Fun to see! I have a TSL1000 and I love it. Very rigid and powerful and perfect size.
Mine lifts straight with the bars according to the manual.
A lot of hard work on your part but you did a great job. Congratulations!!
That's IS a nice lathe. Great buy. Thank you for this.
I picked up one of these a short while back and after cleaning it up and a few other fixes I'm loving this lathe. great job.
btw, I had to move mine around by myself as well....and yes, some sketchiness was involved..lol
I have the Webb Takasawa TSL800, was moving it couple days ago with a lifting tractor on two lift points (prior to watching this video), it started to tip, had to get another forklift to right it up. This thing is top heavy. In this vid, said "DONT EVER DO THIS" when moved into final place, and right about it being risky.
Awesome job Chris! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Thats a good Japanese lathe. Congratulation!
Taiwan, late 70 -early 80's great have exact one. holds tenths when squared up.
Looks great👍👍 nice addition
Looks very Sharp! Well selected color!
Great work! Well made video! Restoring one myself, really helpful. Keep the good content coming sir.
I have a 1972 TLS800 Takisawa lathe (same as yours) Check the hand oil pump inside the carriage as all the oil galleries to the varies bushes ,bearings and ways were blocked. I had make new feed lines as the original lines are impossible to clean out. Great Japanese lathe ,super rigid and built to last.
Yeah I think mines blocked up too, right now I just jam a manual oiler all over the carriage to the and lubricate the parts as best I can... I need to really look closely at i
Can you mute the fast forward back ground noise? It's really distracting. Other than that, it's a great video.
I came to the comments just for this!
I like the background noise of hammering and grinding. But if you know you're going to do a time lapse video, maybe keep talking to a minimum
I think they're fun :)
I think it's appropriate but maybe the level was fighting the voiceover a little.
I don't mind the machining/cleaning noises it's the talking which turns into chipmunk noise and is louder than the actual voiceover itself that makes it hard to watch. I wonder if it wasn't originally going to be voiced over but it was too long..shrug.
I just bought this exact machine! Also moved mine with my 26 year old pickup.
Great narration and nice project.
A really nice job...that's incredibly well done. Enjoy...
👍 Nice restored Lathe i did the same thing years ago to a Axelson 20" Lathe one year later it looked like the day i bought it Ohwell .🙌
Way to go. A good quality " seasoned " machine way better than a crappy new machine of dubious quality. I believe you never regret buying quality. I have several older machines including a big old lathe from the 1930's than can hold an accuracy to challenge any modern lathe. Probably going to get called out on this but confident it can hold a tolerance of less than a thou over a four foot length when turning rams and cylinders. Not bad for nearly 90 years old!
The work you put in it was definitely worth it it's a great machine thumbs up my friends
Hi, please don't give false advice, that rust removal made it worse for starters.
Lovely job, cracking video too.
Very nicely done. I would love a shop like yours
Nice work. I can remember, as a child my father bought an old lathe, I can't remember the manufacturer, but he did the same thing. That was probably 40 years ago, that machine is still in the family, my son in law is now the new owner.
Hi, Nice job, not talking about restoration im talking about moving this heavy machine, and DRO installation , thumb up continue to share
you should get some strong lighting on top of that lathe. You can get LED light bars on HF for 20 bucks
Bringing one of these home this week. I'm hoping to get it off of its concrete platform and onto my trailer without injuring myself.
Great video and good work
Great job big fan love all the videos
This video makes me glad I sold the 1940 South Bend I inherited 45 years ago. Anything I might have done to "restore" it or use it could only have hurt and it deserved better.
Sandblasting would destroy it, unless you completely disassembled it. You did right.
Wow, nothing rubbed me the wrong way. Subscribed.
Nice Machine, have seen a few of them here in Georgia and they are workhorses, like the color.Cheers.
I ❤ your restoration videos !!
Roll your machine around on pipes, 3/4" pipe keeps it close to the ground and its easy to swivel and roll and easy to get off of the pipes when you want to.
WHO HAS PIPE LAYING AROUND !
@@walterfung701 I do, and lots of it, many different sizes and materials
@@walterfung701 scaffold ive moved a 5t lathe out of a railway arch some years ago only took two men to move it , scaffold tubes and planks to get over the uneven floor
I have the same DRO.works awesome.
Hi just found your channel. You do some interesting stuff. Great lathe restoration, looks a nice one in good shape.
The drawing on the manual clearly show you that you need to use two independent straps,or cables,,one being longer than the other.
You used three,and linked them together,the weight redistributed itself on the center point, symetrically,so you created an umbalance on the level.
You reproduced exactly what was on the manual,but backwards,the second time.
The third strap screwd ya
Nice job done congrats to you 👍
Hope you work over the four jaw too it's such a convenient chuck when precise turning ...
I felt so with you when you had to lift the lathe to the ground ...my big lathe is half the weight and I was by myself to and f...... heavy is f...... heavy and you start to feel so small and weak when moving these machines . A friend had an accident while moving and his big lathe felt on the side ....poor guy we helped him to get it up and he was lucky that only one lever broke 😎
Interesting video I liked watching .
nice video man!! good job
A fantastic machine that will serve you well, but I don't like the white paint finish, but that is only my preference.
I've bought and restored 3 lathes in the past 2 months nothing more rewarding then bringing them back,,,l took my 12 inch down to bare metal and polished it until it shined like a mirror
I like your style , great video
dude that thing is fucking sweeeet. The white looks great with all the charts and logos too.
I like your channel name especially since with that machine you could make literally anything
I’m so jealous. Being the owner of a Chinese mini lathe.The lathe you have there is about the next logical step
awesome.. the surface finish on the heavy passes was near perfect
Not a bad job mate! Nice machine
Reminded me of flip this house. But, actually since it wasn't sold as rebuild/refurb, nice paint job!
So this is how you move large objects with a pallet jack. You put together a set of blocks. Each block is a bit less than the thickness of the travel on your jack. Now you jack your item up and put blocks under it. Lower the jack and add blocks on the jack. Raise the jack and block your item. Continue until you run out of blocks or arrive at the desired height. Lowering the item is just a reversal of this process.
For what it's worth, I think you did a good job taking this dirty old machine and renewing it.
The best lathes, Takisawa. The controls have a good feel, well placed and the whole machine is well made. There are other quality Japanese lathe manufacturers too.
Can you get parts for these ?
@@jimc3688 I suppose so, the company is still there in Japan.
@@mohabatkhanmalak1161 Request from them and the USA office for information was never returned. So I passed on one from a local shop.
@@jimc3688 Check on Ebay, its the one stop online shop for everything, especially parts. I am in New Zealand and the two Takisawa lathes I had experienced was back in 1990's in Dubai, UAE.
Just done this myself on a TOS. Most of this is good advice. But :o) . It’s a lathe, it makes things, don’t chisel the info plates off, tape or latex-mask them. Machine green in a rattle can is good. Brush on gun wash to clean it and poke off any loose paint. Don’t dig into the filler, you will regret it. Make sure the oiling points are free. The little scrapers that run on the bed are very important, make sure they just touch. (Like tiny snow ploughs) Watch out for rust on the chuck mounts, it throws it all out of round. The digital ruler kit is ace, grab it :D
This is not restoration this is painting.
And a really crap painting job as well.
I agree this is just a paint job and not a good one at that, and why did u chose this stupid ugly white colour, should be industrial green or gray
if it aint broke dont fix it
If its not a restoration dont say it is, say its a paint job
@@magnum357225 Technically it is restoration, as you are restoring the machine to its original color. Why you have such a piss poor attitude? It's not even your machine, so he can call it whatever he wants and paint it whatever color he wants. Get your own lathe then go "restore" it fully yourself and bondo and paint it whatever color you want. Not every machine is green or gray. I've seen many different colors come from manufacturers, so don't be such a dipshit next time.
Ran an Brown and Sharpe lathe what a beast.
Yo dude...Really........Better than brand new........GOOD JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris, . Great restoration and upgrade to both the lathe and your shop. Thanks for making this video. I'm 72 year young and just start get interesting to run lathe.
That was a good move to put the bar in the chuck when you removed it. Noted.
Build a chip control curtain. Buy a Magic Mist. Should have bought an adjustable 3 or6 jaw. Make a center height gage. Have FUN😊
Nice job!
when machining aluminium its always better to use a light oil as cutting fluid ,the reason being aluminium likes to stick to your tool if it gets to hot and using a light oil prevents this and also improves the surface finish
27:43 don´t ever do something like that againg my friend, if your sleeve get caught by the chuck that´s it... Nice lathe.
I was cringing thst that metal bar would fly off and destroy the machine, should have had the back chuck attatch too form stability
The longs stickout shouldn't be a big problem at a low speed, but the getting cought issue...
Wrapping the hand around the part with a keyway plus sleeves plus grippy gloves, that's desaster incoming.
It only takes one revolution to rip your hand off. At 250rpm that's 0.24 seconds.
Nice lathe.
i have this exact lathe. about the only thing a good functional lathe needs is to be leveled very carefully to take any twist out of the ways, and a careful tramming of the tailstock to keep any long work from tapering. sometimes the inspiration for going fully into the work that might be needed is to first clean up the tool and make appearance a good start. this lathe also has a gear drive head stock with very nice precision heavy duty spindle bearings. if that works, best not to mess with it. the gearbox with change gears for threading and feed under the end cover on the left are easy to access and clean up without cracking into anything in the oil bath spindle and gear drive of the headstock.
the DRO is a nice addition to the cross slide and main carriage as the acme screws will always have some backlash.
nice work - but I opt for gray myself - keeps me from going ocd when cleanup is needed.
also, machines like this are really easy to move with about 3 or 4 1" steel round bars. raise one end, and just log roll it into place. much less dicey, and very easy to get the rollers out after.
Awesome lathe. Whatever you have playing in the background that is sped up makes it hard to listen to your narration though.
Nice video
That constant squeaking due to the original sound being sped up sounds awesome....
That's a really nice lathe I want me a nice lathe one day
The spindle nose isn't an "A 1 through 5" it's an A1-5... type A1 size 5. And A1 or A2 (difference being presence of tapped holes on the inner circle) are far more common than "D" as you said... A2-6 being the most common size I see regularly.
God damn those high pitched sounds drove me crazy
Nice machine set up. though you might want to keep that headstock tube clear for long parts. and you need a couple of spiders,maybe long bar supports.
Keep that 4 jaw handy. you'll learn to love it.
Not the most perfect restoration I've ever seen but if it's good enough for you then that's great and overall it looks great.it would be cool if you machined a handle for the missing one on your newly refurbished lathe.
At 1:55 I learned something. Thanks !
"I'm getting a huge industrial machine, that's going to sit in a machine shop. I can have it any color I want. What color should I get?"
"White" [said no one ever]
Black blue or green
Machine gray for manual stuff (tho allot of older machines were green)
cnc is normally white.
White is absolutely best colour. Oil leaks are immediately apparently seen.
Paint job was super disappointing, really cut corners :(. Beautiful machine though..
PINK
It looks like a very well built machine,,
Hi, To move heavy weight you can use orange rind on the 4 cornerS of the machine, just if your floor is smooth, nice job.
You should get ahold of a Machinery Level and level out the lathe. I used to run a Nardini 20in swing x 96 gap-bed lathe. It would face about 0.0005 out of square per inch of diameter until it was properly leveled. If you are going to attempt very high precision work it would even be worthwhile to pay an expert to do the leveling.
Best wishes
Your gonna just love how much dirt n oil that white is gonna show...but it will be light grey eventually ...lol.....cheers
lutes workshop gener'al the gloss whites been pretty good for cleaning up the dirt, just a little spray with some simple green and a whipe and she’s shining again!
Level your lathe, use an accurate level on the carriage and the bed ( X and y ). it will give more accurate turning and the lathe will work better overall also eliminate vibration. Pretty good clean up and paint job you did.
p.s You could use clamps ( home made) and 5/8" concrete bolts to anchor the machine after levelling.
How do you level a lathe on a ship? =D
Kieron same as usual, threaded rods or nuts will have to be welded to the floor for clamping once leveling is done. The idea is to minimize vibrations and flexing , especially with long workpiece such as shafts etc. Although a ship may experience stormy weather headstock and tailstock should always be in alignment. Rubber pads could be added to absorb some of the stress.
I take it back,,, your working shop looks like mine,, neat as a pin
7:20 -- did I miss the link to the drill mounted brushes? I didn't see it in the description. They look like they work great!
Steve Pepin I’ll add them today!
The cleanup and painting was a little half-assed IMO. You should have used chemical paint stripper to get most of the paint off rather than a mechanical method. Sandblasting would have been the best but I don't think the prep and work would be worth it. I think chemical paint strippers would have been your best bet to get it down to bare metal.
Not correct. These machines have a shit ton of fiiller bondo as it's cast Iron. Unless you take off all the bondo, you will be screwed if you paint over bondo that had stripper used on it as the stripper binds to the bondo and once you paint over it will just bubble up and peel and look horrible in a few weeks. So if you use stripper you will have to remove ALL bondo and thats not worth it IMO. Would rather just use a twisted brush wire wheel on angle grinder and remove majority of the paint and filler or sand blast it.
Does feel like more of a re-paint and digital upgrade than a true restoration.
Idk why so many keyboard warriors are whining about how he did the repaint/cleaning.... The man makes money USING his tools, not just making videos about restoring tools like some RUclips channels. Plenty of channels do restorations just for the sake of it... Maybe he just needed to get it cleaned and serviceable sheesh so many bitchy people in the comments
@@kazykamakaze131 I didn't know how stripper affected Bondo but good to know.
Really great video, but "White" I don't know, mint green or mint blue or probably light grey would have been my choice, ENJOY the new TOY !!!
Never thought I'd watch a video of paint drying...
Good job
If you have the operators manual then look up automatic trip. They are usually to allow stopping travel while screw cutting, absolutely awesome if screw cutting a small internal thread.
Nice job, this machine will serve you well.
I heard a lot that you should level your machine, in the sense that you get as much twist and bow out of the ways. Also I hope it doesn't collide with the mill table right next to it.
Correct term to explain level lathe would be "square" all axis to each other.