You make such amazing content. You're just a bloke at home on his own, but your videos are better quality than entire teams who make commercial TV shows. 11/10 👌
I totally second and third this - it is an audiovisual pleasure to watch your videos, thank you very much for the entertainment and for sharing your knowledge and experiences!
@@Cous1nJack agreed. But I love the angry man red screen that makes an appearance on the Land Rover series. As I have the same angry red screen happen in my projects.
I AM that "One other person"! I have owned a Rodney for about twenty years. Rodney and his mate Myford Super Seven have been in storage for twelve years, sadly the storage was not exactly waterproof. The Myford did not fare too badly; the compound slide and quick-change toolpost were off the lathe, and are a bit of a mess, although fixable. Rodney did not come out as well, and will be a daunting task... Still, I know where to come for reference. :o) Many thanks for another enjoyable (and, for me, inspirational) video. P.S. Sorry, no literature. :o(
Found myself wondering whether or not I liked your presentation style initially. Ended up loving it! The turning point was the outdoor spraypainting with hardcore soundtrack. Superb job on the Rodney. You are a real craftsman.
Two years later I stumbled across this nicely edited and humorous video. What a wonderfull attachment. I have a friend who has a giant Orlikon Lathe with a milling head mounted to the carriage for the work he does, but it's a bit unwieldy for the home shop. However...the Rodney looks to be the perfect answer for the model engineer who has limited workshop space. And finally...great work, the decal painting alone was worth the the time spent watching. Cheers from New Hamshire USA
Love, I could explain it to you, but you just don't have the glands to understand. Yes, I'm aware I've just defined why I'm happily still a Batchelor in one sentence.
Though I know nothing of machining, I've seen all your vids, and I must say I eagerly await any new ones. Especially the ones of the Myford. Compared to modern lathes it's just so beautiful. And your comments aren't boring. Thanks a lot.
What a commitment to perfection, loved it and your equipment is beautiful and clean. Glad to see you were using rubber gloves with those chemicals. Thank you for the video.
Geoffery, I encountered a bearing race in the axle housing of a Jeep that I could struggled to get out. I tried everything I could think of except heat which was not possible without damaging other components. I decided to take a break at the computer when I looked up on the shelf and spied a can of compressed air for dusting the keyboard and PC internals. I remembered that when you turn the can upside down, you can freeze things. I got two cans and went to the Jeep, turned the cans upside down and sprayed the race until it was frozen, almost 1 1/2 cans, then the race came out by hand. With gloves on, of course!
At least there was no magic smoke to escape... 🙄 I'da put a bit of preload on the spindle bearings, just taking up the play wasn't enough in my book... just sayin.. 🤔
I restore cars here in florida. Watched your entire video. Time consuming nightmares are my life.Felt nice knowing im not alone.good work ,take care. Beware of your government
Какая извилистая инженерная мысль. Я то думал что вертикальные фрезерные столы на токарных станках были первыми или как у американцев а 30-х годах поворотные на передней бабке. Спасибо за информацию. Узнал новое.
Made my day to see a new video. I think Geoff is the funniest guy on RUclips. I want to buy old lathes and land rovers even though I know I couldn’t fix them. Soo good
Great video, nice restoration. I've had a Myford ML7 for about 20 years, I was aware of Rodney's existence but never actually seen him in action. Seems to work quite well. I think if I had a mill attachment on a lathe, one thing I would want to do is be able to mill/drill a piece that was still in the lathe chuck, or between centres. Rodney clearly can't do that because his big arse is right in the way.
I was looking for info on the Myford Mini Miller and I found this. I had too keep watching - really appreciating the self deprecating humour and enthusiasm as well as the Can Do approach. Made my day. Subscribed on the spot.
I used a torch and a wet rag for years . Works great . You just have to get the heat on quickly and no spatter. Fought for many years before I learned this trick . Great video .
Another welding technique which requires less weld metal (and associated heat and spatter) is to tack an offcut of flat bar or a parted off disk, washer or similar to bridge across the raceway, (use small electrodes if stick welding) and use that bridge to press the raceway out.
Absolutely loved the video. Extremely entertaining and informative. Your attention to detail is on point and your skill is next level. Beautiful paint work. I'm sure that Rodney didn't look as good when it was brand new. Great choice to add the sticker. Beautiful work and I look forward to your next video.
Today, I have just picked up a 1950 Myford ML7 from Taumarunui. Your videos are my guide and inspiration. Thank you Geoffrey. Glad to see new content on the same day.
I have one of these, had it for approx forty years, I used it to machine a set of Clarkson milling table castings and then made it into a stand alone mill. I found it was far too heavy to lift onto the lathe in fact I damaged the lathe bed in doing so. Nice video. :)
I was watching your videos the other night. The ball turning tool. I thought, hey I’ve seen this guys name before! I’ll check out more videos when I get a chance. The ball turning vid was great 👍
I’m here for the first time and I'm literally mesmerized at the moment 😍😍 Rodney with myFord ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Man you made my day, this combination is absolutely a dream. thank youvery much for this beautiful work and filming 👍🏻🛠⭐️🍀 Of course Subs ✅
Watched this with my 2.5 year old daughter, she spent the better part of the evening whispering "Rodney" to me. Expecting some questions when I pick her up from daycare this afternoon. Definitely worth it.
To get a bearing shell out of a blind area like the quill you can run a weld around the inside of the bearing shell with a mig or arc. The shell will drop out when it cools.
Very nice restoration. Couldn't agree more. Just find yourself a Clausing 8520 milling machine and you will have a machine that is capable of taking heavy cuts and doing real work without taking up much space in your shop. Ive owned full size milling machines that i used very little of its capability, the Clausing 8520-8530 is perfect for the home shop.
That's an awesome attachment, I'm hoping to make up a similar thing for my old American lathe but mine will be independently driven via that boon the the home machinist, the treadmill motor.
Well done, a very nice job! I have a small (about the same general size) Dore Westbury mill and have found that for any milling operation keeping as much of the quill in the head greatly increases the ridgidness. You might want to try lowering the head until the cutter almost touches the job then use the quill down feed to make the cuts. Have fun Colin
Spot on advice: overhang is the enemy for virtually all machine tools, but especially lightly built ones. Other tips: use short cutters (in relation to their diameter as well as in absolute terms); use sharp cutters, avoid "climb" milling, use machinable materials wherever possible (free cutting MS, brass, alu alloy, continuous cast iron). Unlike an industrial mill, if you get chatter on a lightweight machine you always have to reduce the feed, and / or speed.
Even if I have watched most of your videos at least three or four times, I still get great enjoyment every time and a good laugh. They make me happy and in a good mood!
WEll ty so much for explaining the paint, im restoring / custom parts for my rockwell sander that was very old. I was trying to figure out how to get this stuff to flatten the way you did. tysm for showing this!!! It looks so beautiful!
Turds do not come better polished than this. Well done sir. Now put the Myford and Rodney in the glass case whete they belong and buy yourself a decent lathe and mill.
Amazing restoration. That sure is some well built vintage machinery. I do have a suggestion though zero experience with a Rodney. If you look at your belt adjuster wheel and it's slot. From my experience as a machine repairman that wheel should be on the outside flat of the belt. And push in creating more belt wrap around the pulleys. Even the toothed belts on our servo driven linear actuators have the idler on the outside pushing in. Just my 2 cents, and not knowing anything about Rodney and certainly not wanting to badmouth the guy. Great video. 👍
This is way better than it was new. Insane. The attention to detail; especially the logo part, blew my brain. This was just insanely entertaining. Thanks for sharing this!
What a great job of rebuilding Rodney, but I WOULD for sure fill the oil revivor , that is turning constantly and gear wear and the shaft is also spinning... Luv the build
What a crazy Kiwi! I just loved the video! Great production with real life challenges and mistakes that we all make. The difference is that your attention to detail and pursuit of perfection gets you back on track. That decal reproduction was amazing. Sound track is a welcome addition. I would love a Rodney for my ML7 but could be costly. Well done!
OK. A few things. First and foremost, that was an epic labour of love, care, attention and effort, on both the restoration and the video. Thank you, I enjoyed it very much. On more boring technical topics (on which I can notably unqualified): I think you could have benefited from a few hard wood/soft metal drifts and punches (i.e. dodgy old bits of wood, and scrap bin pieces of brass/bronze rod/bar). Finally, I'm fairly convinced your next tool acquisition (and/or restoration) should be an arbour press.
Exciting to see you back in business. I can hardly wait for that quick shot of the gear box to show up. Also more from the Range Rover rebuild please. I love your sense of humour.
It's nice to be able to click on a channel's videos and know that the quality is always going to be top notch. This one is no exception. Keep on keepin' on.
It's funny, when you said your better off buying a import bench top machine, that's exactly what I thought too. With that said, I think that machine now looks wonderful!
Cool tip... thanks, I'll file that one away. I do recall an "Old-boy" running weld beads on a worn iron casting to get a loose bearing to fit, your tip is the reverse of that! You have to love the "University of RUclips". :o)
Can't believe I missed your last video. Tapped that Bell hard. Tapped it good. Great videos. That music swell over the narration when you spotted the paint run...... Epic.
Always remember ... A candle is a dismantler/restorer's best friend when it comes to removing stuck parts! Heat the part, sufficiently warm all over to melt the candle wax. Get the wax to run into every nook and cranny. Keep adding heat as required, but just enough plus a little to keep the wax molten until satisfied you're done ... Very subjective ... You decide. My theory on why this works, and has NEVER failed me yet is two fold. Clearly the heat can help in the release of corroded parts due to normal and differential expansion. However, I strongly suspect that the coefficient of expansion of candle wax as it cools is such that, just like a wax motor in a radiator thermostat the "hydraulic pressure" created as the wax cools helps break the bond of one part from the other - a bit like how water in the form of expanding ice brings down mountains far faster than water erosion alone. In addition, the wax residue helps lubricate the internal mating surfaces sufficiently to help break the parts apart. If you've never tried this, trust me, if something is REALLY stuck, then if it's going to come apart at all, THIS is what will do it.
Little tip , you can use welder to remove stuck bearing races, put some weld inside race, then it will pop off easy when metal cools down and weld shrinks.
Geoffrey, fantastic video, thanks for sharing it with us. As usual you brought your A+ game to the table. It was fun to watch and a joy to follow along on the rebuild. Stay Safe & Cheers!
10:45 you have to be the ONLY restoration video that applies bog AFTER primer. Well done, as even the great mymechanics makes this mistake...every...time. Looking great there, this is the first video i have seen of yours and am now a "all notifications" subscriber as i know good home handy work when i see it! Hello from across the ditch!
If anyone out there has original Rodney literature, I would really appreciate it if you could scan and email it to me. I'm trying to gather all the documentation that goes with the machines I restore so that I can make it available to everyone. Edit: I am aware of the brochure on lathes .co .uk. Because that site is one guys hobby, I don't want to screw him by buying it from him to share around. If the same brochure comes from an original source, that's fine.
Your best bet is going to be lathes UK. Contact them if they don't show it on their site. If anyone knows where you might get one they will. All the dealings I've had with them over the years they've been most helpful.
Great job. Your video was super funny, and I learned how to knock oput mushrooms pins in shafts. Great job. And that decal was a testiment to greatness.
Beautiful resto and super fun video. It's nice to see someone doing the prep and paint properly. I got all excited and checked the Hare and Forbes catalogue but they only have MT3 collets. Sorry🤔
Hey, I'm a woodworker and I would have made a bolt just like that with my chainsaw. The only difference is I would have at least hit the end with a wood rasp to knock down that small doodle shaft bit. Well played sir.
bit late and not sure what equipment you have access too but the easiest way to get a bearing race out of a blind seat is to weld a bead on the inside of it ...go all the way around the inner diameter...preferably in the middle ish of the race. Stick or mig both work but if ya have access to a tig it can even be done without adding filler wire...just a hot and heavy"reweld" bead.Once welded walk away,drink a beer or two(libation of choice of course lol). Once cooled all the way just turn upside down...98 percent of the time the race will just fall out..if still tight then you need to lay a heavier/hotter bead.Hope it helps in the future!
So pretty, i brought a gaint lathe i can't power cause every time i tried to buy a small lathe deals just fall through or the people just go quiet....People are strange, glad machines like being fixed and updated with specialty tooling :)
For bearng outer races that are stuck in place lke that last one you removed, you can just run a short weld on the inside and they just fall out. It shrinks the metal and gives you something to push on.
One of the best produced, thought out and creative YT channels out there. The content is great, and your skills are easily amongst the best of the best. As always thanks for raising the bar.
If your having a hard time taking a bearing out of bore you can protect the surrounding area and run a bead of weld on the inside of the outer race. The weld will shrink and contract the race and make it easy or easier to remove.
For bearing races in blind holes you can make an expanding spigot to fit into the bearing groove. You have a lathe, which is pretty much a requirement for making the spigot. Either a finger-based thing expanded by a screw in a partially-tapped hole, or a "top hat last" style thing. I have used both. One of the latter for getting the taper roller outer out of a motorcycle headstock. That one had to grip the radius on the edge of the race, and still worked,
Id looks a bit weird that the idler pulley for the belt would push on the inside of the belt. It would be better to use a larger belt, get more wrap around the pulleys and then the idler would be against the outside of the belt?
I didn't think to try that. It's a good idea though. I'm not sure if there's enough travel in the tensioner but I would have tried if I'd thought about it. Other problem was that this profile belt isn't common so they have to be ordered in each time I try another length.
Another thing that I've used for getting tricky bearing races out like that is a cut off wheel on a dremel. Carefully cut the bearing race in two places and it'll just fall out. Of of course this is almost impossible to do without making the housing a tiny bit but it's never been an issue on anything I've worked on.
![Bridgebort Milling Machine [Rescue]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zGv7MkdIP_w/mqdefault.jpg)
You make such amazing content. You're just a bloke at home on his own, but your videos are better quality than entire teams who make commercial TV shows. 11/10 👌
Agreed!
This was the same I was thinking while watching it. All those "scientific" channels are nowhere compared to this video...
I totally second and third this - it is an audiovisual pleasure to watch your videos, thank you very much for the entertainment and for sharing your knowledge and experiences!
I'll upvote you on that too !!
😎👍☘🍺
Absolutely sensational video. Funny, informative, exceptional quality, I could go on.... Looking forward to seeing the next ones. 👍
That decal taping was some serious commitment!
The model
Shoulda put a "Delboy" on instead... 😂
Oh hello, nice to see you here
@@yak-machining God save us!! Not THE MODEL !!!!
@@tfarris1 👈
I have to get my Hair
El gobierno.
ZA 😘
Dude i have never been more excited about a RUclips notification. You’re my favorite creator on this app.
It’s good to have you back. Cant wait for more Land Rover
Seconded. His is good too, I know what’s coming with a land rover but don’t see inside many lathes etc
@@Cous1nJack agreed. But I love the angry man red screen that makes an appearance on the Land Rover series. As I have the same angry red screen happen in my projects.
I'm going to show my Canadian influence here, but I like the tool and Land Rover content.🇨🇦
I AM that "One other person"!
I have owned a Rodney for about twenty years. Rodney and his mate Myford Super Seven have been in storage for twelve years, sadly the storage was not exactly waterproof. The Myford did not fare too badly; the compound slide and quick-change toolpost were off the lathe, and are a bit of a mess, although fixable. Rodney did not come out as well, and will be a daunting task...
Still, I know where to come for reference. :o)
Many thanks for another enjoyable (and, for me, inspirational) video.
P.S. Sorry, no literature. :o(
At last, good to see another Croker production.
Found myself wondering whether or not I liked your presentation style initially. Ended up loving it! The turning point was the outdoor spraypainting with hardcore soundtrack.
Superb job on the Rodney. You are a real craftsman.
Two years later I stumbled across this nicely edited and humorous video. What a wonderfull attachment. I have a friend who has a giant Orlikon Lathe with a milling head mounted to the carriage for the work he does, but it's a bit unwieldy for the home shop. However...the Rodney looks to be the perfect answer for the model engineer who has limited workshop space. And finally...great work, the decal painting alone was worth the the time spent watching. Cheers from New Hamshire USA
Masking the Rodney logo was almost as complicated as Binkey's roof.
My wife: "what on earth are you watching?"
Me: Ummmm, it's complicated...
**R O D N E Y**
Love, I could explain it to you, but you just don't have the glands to understand.
Yes, I'm aware I've just defined why I'm happily still a Batchelor in one sentence.
Just say porn.
Your videos are the best. And even better is to enjoying them on a sunny Saturday morning like I am. Thanks and cheers from France!
👍🇫🇷
Though I know nothing of machining, I've seen all your vids, and I must say I eagerly await any new ones. Especially the ones of the Myford. Compared to modern lathes it's just so beautiful. And your comments aren't boring. Thanks a lot.
What a commitment to perfection, loved it and your equipment is beautiful and clean. Glad to see you were using rubber gloves with those chemicals. Thank you for the video.
Geoffery, I encountered a bearing race in the axle housing of a Jeep that I could struggled to get out. I tried everything I could think of except heat which was not possible without damaging other components. I decided to take a break at the computer when I looked up on the shelf and spied a can of compressed air for dusting the keyboard and PC internals. I remembered that when you turn the can upside down, you can freeze things. I got two cans and went to the Jeep, turned the cans upside down and sprayed the race until it was frozen, almost 1 1/2 cans, then the race came out by hand. With gloves on, of course!
1:25 Uhoh, that’s not good, you have freed the spirit of Rodney!
At least there was no magic smoke to escape... 🙄
I'da put a bit of preload on the spindle bearings, just taking up the play wasn't enough in my book... just sayin.. 🤔
I restore cars here in florida.
Watched your entire video.
Time consuming nightmares are my life.Felt nice knowing im not alone.good work ,take care.
Beware of your government
Epic Doom music for an epic paint job !!!
Какая извилистая инженерная мысль. Я то думал что вертикальные фрезерные столы на токарных станках были первыми или как у американцев а 30-х годах поворотные на передней бабке. Спасибо за информацию. Узнал новое.
Great video Geoffrey! I love the entertaining content and your sense of humour! Best wishes from a retired toolmaker, from England, living in the UAE.
Made my day to see a new video. I think Geoff is the funniest guy on RUclips. I want to buy old lathes and land rovers even though I know I couldn’t fix them. Soo good
Great video, nice restoration. I've had a Myford ML7 for about 20 years, I was aware of Rodney's existence but never actually seen him in action. Seems to work quite well. I think if I had a mill attachment on a lathe, one thing I would want to do is be able to mill/drill a piece that was still in the lathe chuck, or between centres. Rodney clearly can't do that because his big arse is right in the way.
I was looking for info on the Myford Mini Miller and I found this. I had too keep watching - really appreciating the self deprecating humour and enthusiasm as well as the Can Do approach. Made my day. Subscribed on the spot.
Thanks Brendan
Just FYI, welding a bead on the inside of that bearing shell would make it fall out once cooled down
Agreed, that's the way I remove valve seats from aluminum heads :)
I used a torch and a wet rag for years . Works great . You just have to get the heat on quickly and no spatter. Fought for many years before I learned this trick . Great video .
@@kisoia I to have used this method to great success, mig or stick either will do, just protect the rest from spatter.
Another welding technique which requires less weld metal (and associated heat and spatter) is to tack an offcut of flat bar or a parted off disk, washer or similar to bridge across the raceway, (use small electrodes if stick welding) and use that bridge to press the raceway out.
Yup, works every time for me.
Your production was absolutely outstanding in every way and I thank you so much for your efforts
Absolutely loved the video. Extremely entertaining and informative. Your attention to detail is on point and your skill is next level. Beautiful paint work. I'm sure that Rodney didn't look as good when it was brand new. Great choice to add the sticker. Beautiful work and I look forward to your next video.
Today, I have just picked up a 1950 Myford ML7 from Taumarunui. Your videos are my guide and inspiration. Thank you Geoffrey. Glad to see new content on the same day.
Cool! Email me if you need anything.
I have one of these, had it for approx forty years, I used it to machine a set of Clarkson milling table castings and then made it into a stand alone mill.
I found it was far too heavy to lift onto the lathe in fact I damaged the lathe bed in doing so.
Nice video. :)
What a fabulous restoration of the iconic Rodney, your videos are fun and entertaining, thanks for the upload :)
I was watching your videos the other night. The ball turning tool. I thought, hey I’ve seen this guys name before! I’ll check out more videos when I get a chance. The ball turning vid was great 👍
Love it. Hard to imagine why they didn't sell millions of these with a name like Rodney
Probably because, like Trigger, they thought his name was Dave! 🤔🙄🤣🤣🤣🤣 Brits will get it! 🤣🤣
I’m here for the first time and I'm literally mesmerized at the moment 😍😍 Rodney with myFord ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Man you made my day, this combination is absolutely a dream. thank youvery much for this beautiful work and filming 👍🏻🛠⭐️🍀 Of course Subs ✅
Watched this with my 2.5 year old daughter, she spent the better part of the evening whispering "Rodney" to me. Expecting some questions when I pick her up from daycare this afternoon. Definitely worth it.
To get a bearing shell out of a blind area like the quill you can run a weld around the inside of the bearing shell with a mig or arc. The shell will drop out when it cools.
I rarely, if never use the word awesome, but that's the correct word to describe the skill and patience exhibited in this rebuild.
That finished Rodney looked as if just came from the makers, cracking job.
You make the best videos on RUclips lots of luv from the UK 🇬🇧
My favourite RUclips channel. Hope you are well and settled in the new house. I'll investigate any literature over hear in the UK.
Doing great. Cheers Paul👍
I love that your mildly antagonistic relationship with the commentariat is a regular and prominent feature of your vids.
The only bigger chumps than Geoffrey are we the commentariat. It's a healthy antagonism.
See also "Watch Wes Work" for more of this sort of thing!
you did a wonderful job.
You’re probably increased its value tenfold
Very nice restoration. Couldn't agree more. Just find yourself a Clausing 8520 milling machine and you will have a machine that is capable of taking heavy cuts and doing real work without taking up much space in your shop. Ive owned full size milling machines that i used very little of its capability, the Clausing 8520-8530 is perfect for the home shop.
That's an awesome attachment, I'm hoping to make up a similar thing for my old American lathe but mine will be independently driven via that boon the the home machinist, the treadmill motor.
That is a pretty Rube Goldberg device. Very cool that you restored it, and took us along for the ride. Thanks.
My prayers to NZ sheep gods has been answered
That was an amazing restoration. Your attention to detail and dry humour made this a very enjoyable watch. Thank you.
This old Tony’s cousin from New Zealand. Very entertaining, informative and about classic machinery... Subscribed.
This was amazing. I now have ‘Rodney’ being whispered stuck inside my head
Well done, a very nice job! I have a small (about the same general size) Dore Westbury mill and have found that for any milling operation keeping as much of the quill in the head greatly increases the ridgidness.
You might want to try lowering the head until the cutter almost touches the job then use the quill down feed to make the cuts.
Have fun
Colin
Spot on advice: overhang is the enemy for virtually all machine tools, but especially lightly built ones. Other tips: use short cutters (in relation to their diameter as well as in absolute terms); use sharp cutters, avoid "climb" milling, use machinable materials wherever possible (free cutting MS, brass, alu alloy, continuous cast iron).
Unlike an industrial mill, if you get chatter on a lightweight machine you always have to reduce the feed, and / or speed.
You get top marks for everything, decal, painting, restoration, and of course a great Video of it all. Well done my friend.
Even if I have watched most of your videos at least three or four times, I still get great enjoyment every time and a good laugh. They make me happy and in a good mood!
WEll ty so much for explaining the paint, im restoring / custom parts for my rockwell sander that was very old. I was trying to figure out how to get this stuff to flatten the way you did. tysm for showing this!!! It looks so beautiful!
Turds do not come better polished than this. Well done sir. Now put the Myford and Rodney in the glass case whete they belong and buy yourself a decent lathe and mill.
i have never before felt such an adrenaline rush while watching someone paint
Great video as always!
Amazing restoration. That sure is some well built vintage machinery. I do have a suggestion though zero experience with a Rodney. If you look at your belt adjuster wheel and it's slot. From my experience as a machine repairman that wheel should be on the outside flat of the belt. And push in creating more belt wrap around the pulleys. Even the toothed belts on our servo driven linear actuators have the idler on the outside pushing in. Just my 2 cents, and not knowing anything about Rodney and certainly not wanting to badmouth the guy. Great video. 👍
This should be on Netflix. Awesome level of production, congratulations.
This is way better than it was new. Insane. The attention to detail; especially the logo part, blew my brain. This was just insanely entertaining. Thanks for sharing this!
What a great job of rebuilding Rodney, but I WOULD for sure fill the oil revivor , that is turning constantly and gear wear and the shaft is also spinning... Luv the build
Glad to see you making new videos again! Still one of my favorite channels on RUclips. Regards, Silas
I don't know how I missed the video, good to see Rodney back in action.
For future reference, if you need to extract a bearing shell just run a weld bead around it, the weld pull will shrink it by close to 1%.
What a crazy Kiwi! I just loved the video! Great production with real life challenges and mistakes that we all make. The difference is that your attention to detail and pursuit of perfection gets you back on track. That decal reproduction was amazing. Sound track is a welcome addition. I would love a Rodney for my ML7 but could be costly. Well done!
OK. A few things.
First and foremost, that was an epic labour of love, care, attention and effort, on both the restoration and the video.
Thank you, I enjoyed it very much.
On more boring technical topics (on which I can notably unqualified):
I think you could have benefited from a few hard wood/soft metal drifts and punches (i.e. dodgy old bits of wood, and scrap bin pieces of brass/bronze rod/bar).
Finally, I'm fairly convinced your next tool acquisition (and/or restoration) should be an arbour press.
2am London, nice to see you again, now will watch vid ty
DUDE, that taping to precisely make that logo? was AMAZING. Thanks for that. V cool!
Most beautifully celebrated!
Better than any commercial content ever.
Exciting to see you back in business. I can hardly wait for that quick shot of the gear box to show up. Also more from the Range Rover rebuild please. I love your sense of humour.
Nobody can accuse you of not putting effort into the project. Good result and great video. Thanks for sharing.
It's nice to be able to click on a channel's videos and know that the quality is always going to be top notch. This one is no exception. Keep on keepin' on.
It's funny, when you said your better off buying a import bench top machine, that's exactly what I thought too. With that said, I think that machine now looks wonderful!
Hey Geoffrey, if you need to get a bearing race like that out in future just run a bead of weld in the inside of the race and it'll fall right out
Cool tip... thanks, I'll file that one away.
I do recall an "Old-boy" running weld beads on a worn iron casting to get a loose bearing to fit, your tip is the reverse of that!
You have to love the "University of RUclips". :o)
Was just scanning comments to see if anyone already said this, it 100% works!!
Rodney looks happy where it belongs. Good job! 👍🏼
was feeling so nostalgic yesterday that I rewatched the 'Yankee' and now the death metal bloke is here again.
Can't believe I missed your last video. Tapped that Bell hard. Tapped it good. Great videos. That music swell over the narration when you spotted the paint run...... Epic.
Always remember ... A candle is a dismantler/restorer's best friend when it comes to removing stuck parts!
Heat the part, sufficiently warm all over to melt the candle wax. Get the wax to run into every nook and cranny. Keep adding heat as required, but just enough plus a little to keep the wax molten until satisfied you're done ... Very subjective ... You decide.
My theory on why this works, and has NEVER failed me yet is two fold. Clearly the heat can help in the release of corroded parts due to normal and differential expansion.
However, I strongly suspect that the coefficient of expansion of candle wax as it cools is such that, just like a wax motor in a radiator thermostat the "hydraulic pressure" created as the wax cools helps break the bond of one part from the other - a bit like how water in the form of expanding ice brings down mountains far faster than water erosion alone.
In addition, the wax residue helps lubricate the internal mating surfaces sufficiently to help break the parts apart.
If you've never tried this, trust me, if something is REALLY stuck, then if it's going to come apart at all, THIS is what will do it.
Little tip , you can use welder to remove stuck bearing races, put some weld inside race, then it will pop off easy when metal cools down and weld shrinks.
The doom music during the paint scene brings me great joy!
Geoffrey, fantastic video, thanks for sharing it with us. As usual you brought your A+ game to the table. It was fun to watch and a joy to follow along on the rebuild. Stay Safe & Cheers!
Brilliant video very interesting and educational loved it all including the commentary and especially Rodney.
Underrated channel. Love it Geoff🍺🍺
40 glorious minutes of some bloke fixing stuff I know next to nothing about. Thank you.
10:45 you have to be the ONLY restoration video that applies bog AFTER primer. Well done, as even the great mymechanics makes this mistake...every...time.
Looking great there, this is the first video i have seen of yours and am now a "all notifications" subscriber as i know good home handy work when i see it! Hello from across the ditch!
If anyone out there has original Rodney literature, I would really appreciate it if you could scan and email it to me. I'm trying to gather all the documentation that goes with the machines I restore so that I can make it available to everyone.
Edit: I am aware of the brochure on lathes .co .uk. Because that site is one guys hobby, I don't want to screw him by buying it from him to share around. If the same brochure comes from an original source, that's fine.
lathes.co.uk/rodney is worth a look...
Does this help?
store.lathes.co.uk/print/mr532
I took a brief look around www.vintagemachinery.org but it doesn't seem to be on there, unless it's under whatever its model number is.
@@Orxenhorf They have a ton of great stuff on there
Your best bet is going to be lathes UK. Contact them if they don't show it on their site. If anyone knows where you might get one they will. All the dealings I've had with them over the years they've been most helpful.
Great job. Your video was super funny, and I learned how to knock oput mushrooms pins in shafts. Great job. And that decal was a testiment to greatness.
This was awesome, beautiful restoration with great sense of humor, always a pleasure to watch your vids! Thx!
man i feel bad that you didnt know or forgot about the old "weld a bead on a stuck bearing race trick"
Was thinking the same thing 😃
..anyone care to tell him AvE’s ‘greasy rag’ method for getting bearings out?
Beautiful resto and super fun video. It's nice to see someone doing the prep and paint properly. I got all excited and checked the Hare and Forbes catalogue but they only have MT3 collets. Sorry🤔
Cheers Preso! Yeah, I was surprised that the collets aren’t more available.
Hey, I'm a woodworker and I would have made a bolt just like that with my chainsaw. The only difference is I would have at least hit the end with a wood rasp to knock down that small doodle shaft bit. Well played sir.
bit late and not sure what equipment you have access too but the easiest way to get a bearing race out of a blind seat is to weld a bead on the inside of it ...go all the way around the inner diameter...preferably in the middle ish of the race. Stick or mig both work but if ya have access to a tig it can even be done without adding filler wire...just a hot and heavy"reweld" bead.Once welded walk away,drink a beer or two(libation of choice of course lol). Once cooled all the way just turn upside down...98 percent of the time the race will just fall out..if still tight then you need to lay a heavier/hotter bead.Hope it helps in the future!
My first time seeing one of these and I really do admire it. You did a wonderful restoration with excellent attention to detail. I subbed you.
Sooooo I take it your going to try milling the Landie chassis flat now? 😉
So pretty, i brought a gaint lathe i can't power cause every time i tried to buy a small lathe deals just fall through or the people just go quiet....People are strange, glad machines like being fixed and updated with specialty tooling :)
For bearng outer races that are stuck in place lke that last one you removed, you can just run a short weld on the inside and they just fall out. It shrinks the metal and gives you something to push on.
Croker delivers again! What an unexpected treat and a great way to start the weekend.
One of the best produced, thought out and creative YT channels out there. The content is great, and your skills are easily amongst the best of the best. As always thanks for raising the bar.
I giggled every time he said "pun" instead of "pin". Crazy Kiwis.
Great video and great project. 15:00 I beg your pardon, what is wrong with woodworkers ?😂
If your having a hard time taking a bearing out of bore you can protect the surrounding area and run a bead of weld on the inside of the outer race. The weld will shrink and contract the race and make it easy or easier to remove.
Complimenti !!! Restauro eccezionale, il tornio lo meritava, attrezzo meraviglioso 👏👏
A work of art in its entirety. SICK dude SICK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For bearing races in blind holes you can make an expanding spigot to fit into the bearing groove. You have a lathe, which is pretty much a requirement for making the spigot.
Either a finger-based thing expanded by a screw in a partially-tapped hole, or a "top hat last" style thing. I have used both. One of the latter for getting the taper roller outer out of a motorcycle headstock. That one had to grip the radius on the edge of the race, and still worked,
Id looks a bit weird that the idler pulley for the belt would push on the inside of the belt. It would be better to use a larger belt, get more wrap around the pulleys and then the idler would be against the outside of the belt?
I didn't think to try that. It's a good idea though. I'm not sure if there's enough travel in the tensioner but I would have tried if I'd thought about it. Other problem was that this profile belt isn't common so they have to be ordered in each time I try another length.
@@GeoffreyCroker Either way, loving the videos! Great honest content!
Another thing that I've used for getting tricky bearing races out like that is a cut off wheel on a dremel. Carefully cut the bearing race in two places and it'll just fall out. Of of course this is almost impossible to do without making the housing a tiny bit but it's never been an issue on anything I've worked on.
Thanks for sharing! Glad to see you're still above the ground.