After reading a lot of the comments, strikes me that there are two basic kinds of reloaders. Those who are satisfied with what they do and those that are unsatisfied with everything anybody else does.
@@slackleashdogtraining3598 The pursuit of better is a lot of what craftsmanship is about..but beware...sometimes the enemy of good is better. I am a master stringed instrument craftsman and only have found this out the hard way when I go that one bridge too far and kill a couple of hours worth of work.
Hi Gavin- Liz from Lyman Products here. You can also mount the trimmer perpendicular to the front of your bench so you are pushing down to trim each case instead of sideways for an even more comfortable motion. This was suggested by another reloader at SHOT Show.
@@gerrymatheson4020 I think in your lap. But a short plastic bowl, with a hole centered in its bottom, that fits over the collar's threaded bace should minimize the mess. Think of a Brass Confetti Catching Saucer. HaHa I'd put a Long Think into this before trying it out.......
A quick comment to the folks talking about the varying trim lengths; those aren't a result of this case trimmer being "inaccurate". Any case trimmer that uses the case shoulder to index (such as the Giraud, WFT, Frankford Arsenal, Lyman etc.) will only cut as accurately as your shoulder bump. You'll notice in the video he's getting varying trim lengths on the .308 batches; this is most likely a result of him using mixed headstamp brass, unannealed brass that has a mixed number of firings; or his sizing die is setup to 'over bump' the shoulder beyond what is required, and you're seeing the varying springback in the brass. Regardless, it's not an issue with the trimmer. The adjustment on where the trimmer indexes never changes/moves. You can think of any 'shoulder indexing' case trimmer as effectively the same thing as a trimming headspace comparator. Any deviation in the brass is going to show up in your trim lenghts. As a result, to get an accurate trim (within .001 across ~100 cases), the rest of your process needs to be wire tight (same headstamp, annealing each firing, dies setup properly). That said, having a few thousandths (.001-.005) difference in brass length is not going to affect your groups at all, at any range, or any discipline.
SuperDutyTX: I agree. I will take a " SHOULDER INDEXED TRIMMED case " over an "overall case trimmed case " ANY DAY. Reason why. Your neck length WILL be more consistent with a "shoulder indexed". Funny how some will worry about the overall case length, and then be INCONSISTENT in their "neck chamfer depth", thus changing neck length. BEST way for the "Anal-Squad" would be a shoulder with an cutter that a least cuts the chamfer too at the same time it trims. If some one can show me different I am willing to learn.
I love how the printing on Lyman boxes give me the impression that I am about to open a new-old-stock that has been hermetically sealed since it was made new in the 1970's.
Being new to reloading I've been doing a ton of research and love your videos and information. This information was extremely helpful and finalized my choice to by this trimmer. I am impressed. The ease of use and consistency once you have it "dialed" in to what you want - best purchase I've made! Saves a ton of time and my bum shoulder! Thank you.
Thank you for your support and knowledge. You have knon idea how important and helpful you are to our community. I’m just starting out reloading. The first(and hope only)reload I purchased is the Dillon XL750. It’s quite a complex setup. I’m 56 and have been a gun enthusiast all my adult life. After building my own AR15/AR10 rifles I thought 6.5 Grendel is quite expensive not to mention 450BM/308/300blk/223/9mm and so on. It seemed to be my next step towards enjoying my hobby more. I can’t wait to shoot 6.5 Grendel in the rifle I built with ammo I made. Pretty excited about it. Oh and I purchased the Lyman and don’t remember what I did with the instructions. I thought no worries I’ll just go to my local reloading expert and see. Again thank you so very much. Sean Winner
Thanks for the reviews on this and other equipment. I think I heard you say to trim then rotate the brass 180 degrees and trim again to make sure it's square. If the first trim isn't square, rotating the brass 180 and trimming again will not make it square, it will make the next shaped like a tubular spearhead. Sloped so slightly you can't see it, bu tit will not be square. If the machine doesn't trim square on the initial insertion, it is defective
The 180deg rotation gives you a second chance at proper shell case alignment relative to the cutting head. Same when precision seating bullets. Your comment is pertinent if we assume perfect case alignment, which isn't possible given the vendor supplied case alignment colletts. A 180deg twist is a minor addition to the overall case prep process, as it is with precision bullit seating, both of which are considered, 'Good Reloading Practices'......
I cannot for the life of me get consistent trims. Twisting, pushing lightly, pushing hard, everything. Nothing would get me consistent trims. Switched to the RT1500 and it worked great. The huge price difference sucks but so much more consistent and I’m very happy.
Frankford arsenal does this same operation and more. These type machines work off referencing the shoulder of the case. Therefore if you're very consistent when you resize, you'll get consistent overall length when you trim.
I've always purchased 3 way trimmers because they're worth the money to me. But I've seen some of these universal type trimmers be VERY hard to get repeatable and consistent results from. This one looks like a winner! - But if you only shoot a few calibers, the Giraud Tri Way Trimmer is a REAL winner of a tool at 105 bucks or so
Agreed! You "get's what you pay for". The only downside, for the Giraud gets a little expensive for each caliber. I started using the Hornady (hand) case trimmer, then bought Lee individual trimmers, and also tried the Lyman EZ Trim set trimmers. Then tried the WFT's in 308 and 223, which weren't too bad, but they didn't chamfer and deburr. I finally spent the money and purchased the Giraud power case trimmer, in 2 calibers. Never been happier, I also purchased a Geraud Tri Way Trimmer in 308, for times when I didn't want to reset the power trimmer from 223 to 308. I bought the Lyman on sale from Midway for $114, for the other misc. calibers I load, on a not too regular basis.
Thanks for your excellent video. It greatly helped me in my purchasing decision. I bought me one and I am very happy with it so far. Greetings from Germany
Only 2 things i wish lyman would change about the unit. Add detents to the adjustment wheel so it locks and is adjustable in half thousandths for the detents, and offer an optional 3-way cutter head like the RCBS 3-way cutter
If I did not already have several WFTs and the Girard trimmer, I would opt for this as it seems to be a good value. I would probably mount this on a block of wood to get it to sit higher for comfort as having my hands in a tray full of brass shavings is not comfortable. I suggest using PUG17 (or similar) gloves to give a better grip on the base and protect hands. As a timesaver, I suggest twisting the brass while in contact with the cutter to make it square in lieu of pulling it out turning and re-inserting.
Why over the giraud? I don't have the motor unit but the triway.. But both have trim, chamfer, and deburing. After using this you'd still have to do 2 more passes on a separate device
I have no issues holding onto them, even with a little Unique lube left on them or my fingers from resizing. Because it's spring loaded you control the pressure and can ease it into the cutter. I mostly just push on the base with my thumb and don't even really "hold on to" the case head... I agree with you about truing up the trim by turning the case...kind of. I just ease up the pressure, turn it a bit, press it again, repeat a couple times til nothing touches the cutter...
Seems like fairly accurate machine The problem is after you trim them all the length you have to take time to debut the inside and the outside of the case mouth and neck. That takes a lot of extra time. I use RCBS trimmer with a 3 way cutter system after the case trim the length is automatically Debured on the inside and the outside.
I was just thinking the same thing.i have a Lee 3 way trimmer I think I'll just stick with it because as you say using this machine you are just adding another process.
I'm wondering that the variable length such as Super Duty is describing, may create an issue with crimping, .005 is a lot, could require sorting cases and crimp adjustments to make it consistent, for those who have a need to do it. Setting the crimp on a short case could cause issues on the long ones. Something to consider at least.
Its really all about what you're welling to pay. The Lyman does an adequate job of trimming for $150, But the Giraud and Henderson trimers are the ultimate. They deburr and champher at the same time. Henderson $778 and the Giraud around $495. But by the time you add cutters and holders/collets , they even out around $900.for say four different calibers. But they are sweet
Yes it looks good but you still have to debur and chamfer and from what i see it will only do bottle neck cases so i will stay with my old Hornady trimer and power drill
I see it doesn't chamfer/debuff like a Giraud. Honestly, I prefer not to chamfer/deburr on the trimmer. I've noticed when I wet tumble after I chamfer/deburr (when I use my giruad) it files down the sharp edge and changes the OAL of the case. I prefer a flat cut, wet tumble, then chamfer after the cases dry (no need to deburr if you wet tumble). Looks like an awesome product!
@@drfroglegs You can adjust the amount of deburring and chamferring right? My 223 cutter came installed and set with very aggressive chamferring. It goes so deep and case neck could almost cut my finger. I adjusted the cutter angle a little bit to get it to deburr and chamfer the way I wanted.
@@k.w5804 the cutter is in a V shape. You can adjust it so there is less of an angle on the chamfer, but doing so will add more of an angle on the deburr (and visa versa). To my knowledge there is no way to cut without a chamfer and deburr due to the V shape of the cutter.
@@drfroglegs True it's always less of one and more of the other. I haven't used Giraud for a long time. I have actually grown to like my Dillon rt1500 and its squre cut, which was what I disliked in the first place to get the Giraud lol. I use M die to just touch the case neck then tumble and load away. If I feel fancy, I will use hand tool to debur and chamfer. For both 223 and 308, I couldn't tell any difference in accuracy be it trimmed by Giraud or Dillon. They are all sub-moa ammo if I do my part.
I have been using the Lee case trimmer that I need to attach to a power drill and after about fifty pieces, my fingers are sore. I hate case trimming but this looks like an easy way to accomplish this task.
I just ordered one these after trimming 1500 rounds of .223 with the same 3-jaw Lee trimmer, it took me the better part of 12 hours to get through them all. My fingers felt like they were about to fall off lol. It gives really accurate and consistent results but the wear and tear to your digits is just plain old unacceptable. It's great for low-volume high-accuracy reloading but when you get into the hundreds or especially thousands of rounds, no thank you...
This is ok, but the Giraud is the end all. They make one for $100 that goes on a hand drill that trims, deburs and chamfers at the same time. Each case is exactly the same. Get one of those and you’ll never look back. If I was wanting to stay with something like this, I would get the Franklin Armory trimmer that has 3 other operations on it (which I do have, but the giraud is still the way to go)
Only negative with the giraud is the tri way is only available in 4 calibers. Major ones. Built a 6.5 grendel so I was “forced” to buy the bench top powered version. Lol
@@musicman1eanda You can adjust it, BUT, once you set it up, there is no need for adjustments, unless you change calibers. here's the link: ruclips.net/video/xwwUjBD8R38/видео.html
I used mine for the first time yesterday for 30-06 brass. I couldn't believe how easy it was to adjust and use. Now I don't dread trimming rifle brass. Now they need to come up with some kind of adapter for straight walled brass.
The only way I see a straight case being trimmed in such a way would be with a bearing perfectly sized to the inner casing that free floats as you insert the case to be trimmed. Maybe just a blank or slug would work as well with the outer edge slotted so it could cut the case only after being properly resized. Just a thought.
Hi Gavin thanks for the review, However, how does the Lyman compare to your earlier reviews of the L.E. Wilson case trimmer with the micrometer and slow speed drill attachment you reviewed. BTW I always enjoy your video however I get confused as which you recommend since you seem to review something new every week. Therefore which I would buy is always a toss-up when comparing similar tools with all the reviews you have published. In addition, I will be waiting to hear your final recommendation for Single Stage press reviews you have mentioned in a shoot out.
Since using the RCBS Trim Pro 3 way cutter, I just can't go back to a standard trim head. I do like the quick and easy method this has. But you still have to do the chamfer and debur work instead of all in one cutting with the 3 way head
After being fired, the shoulders need to be bumped back, so, one should always expect non-uniform case lengths when trimming cases that have not already been resized to SAAMI specs.
This is a very good presentation as are all of your discussions that you provide to us. I would like to suggest that when you evaluate a (new product) that a comparison be made to another product of the same function in order to benchmark the results of the new product. Of all your products, you may have the opinion of a "favorite" and why for comparison to the new product evaluations.
Sizing on the shoulder does create inconsistent length unless they are all new same lot or manufacturer or been shot out of the same rifle. If they are not all the same if you crimp the crimp could vary. Looks like it would be fast way to do bullets for the same rifle under those circumstances. Personally I do one at a time with inexpensive Lee Trimmer by hand. Length is always the same. Easy enough to do just watching television. I use a light crimp on all my rounds and I know they are the same length with the Lee Trimmer. If one is going to trim off the shoulder and only have one caliber there are better options. I do own an older Lyman Power Trimmer that just sits because it doesn't even square the cut. It's alignment is off. It does look like this new one would be squared but it most likely costs more than it's worth. A Lil Crow caliber specific would be a better way to go if one was only doing one to a few calibers. Lyman makes some good stuff, but they make their share of not so good stuff too.
I ditched the spring altogether soon after starting a big batch of 223. No washer or anything. Ran fine, actually better, easier and faster. I got sick of fighting the increasing tension as the case was getting closer to indexing on the shoulder. Unless I jammed it in there with force every time I wouldn’t get consistent trim length from shoulder to mouth. Sometimes I over did it and made some lines around the datum line because it’s difficult to get a good feel when you have the right amount of pressure. And by having to press harder it’s easier to get uneven cuts because of the inherent slop in the unit. No spring and now consistent and more even cuts. Just pay attention to push it in straight in line every time. I wear a thin rubber coated work glove and just jam it home and it goes fast.
Been watching your videos and just came across this,,,,,!!!!,,,,really enjoy watching yer tubes,,,,,!!!! I have been using the Possum Hollow trimmers for years and they trim off the shoulders,,,,,!!!! Just a heads up, all cases should be run though your full length die first before you trim,,,,!!!!! I notice on your 223s some had primers and some did not,,,,,!!!! Keep up the good work,,,,,,
eh looks decent for high volume reloading and convenient may buy if i get into burning cartridges for an ar15 etc. but still cant beat the wilson trimmer for precision
Noob reloader here: How often should you trim cases? Say you get factory ammo, fire it, clean, size/deprime, prime charge load again. Should you trim each time or every so many reloads?
Couldn't the same tool slso chamfer the case mouth at the ssme time, if they shaped the tooling for it? (Lyman, that'll cost you you a 10% commission if you do it.)
That would require either a cutter head which has to be adjusted for each calibre (i.e. basic neck diameter) or interchangeable calibre specific fixed cutter heads - both solutions are already in use by other manufacturers so perhaps no commission from Lyman for you this time.
Yes, you should resize/deprime first, trim accordingly, chamfer/deburr. I thought I saw GT's .223 casings were still primed as he was trimming them. Possibly to only demonstrate the trimming process. I may be wrong on his particular process...GT may resize, trim, deprime and onto the next task. Reloaders have their ways and it is very interesting to see how we all do our brass preparations. Me, I resize/deprime at the same time, trim (if needed on high volume shooting...definitely on my match ammo), deburr/chamfer and onto next task.
soilrulz13 haven’t had to do it once so far. I’ve loaded thousands of .223 and 300 so far. Not one projectile has been ruined. The RT1500 cutter is really that good.
I want a machine that trims length from same reference point, but also inside and outside chamfers at same time, as well as ability for straight wall pistol cases, and with many popular caliber holders available. Anything like this available for $200 or less? Thanks
If it could do straight walled cases as well I would already have one on the way. You would think they could develop a bushing to datum off a rimmed straight walled cartridge.
The physics of a chambered cartridge are such that the shoulder (for rimless cartridges) is what is limiting how far the case can go into the chamber, and thus the length of the neck from that shoulder forward would also be consistently in the same place in the throat. Recall that we trim cases because we don't want them so far forward they begin to touch the inner diameter of the throat and thus won't be able to expand and release the bullet at safer lower pressures. So trimming the neck length rather than the overall length should always keep you on the safe side of things. But our host was trimming .223 brass which had not been-resized (see the cases with the spent primers in them?). Doesn't trimming the cases BEFORE a full length resizing run the risk of extending the neck again beyond where the cut length was?
@@utahprepper8925 yes, always resize first, then trim. I didn't notice the .223 weren't resized. He said his tub of .308 was labeled "sized...needs trimmed"... but I'm skeptical cuz the shoulders didn't seem consistent at all, resulting in the length variations...
DO NOT PROMOTE THIS PRODUCT! Gavin, I love the channel and I've made several purchases based on your reviews, this one however was a big mistake. I just got finished trimming 1,500 5.56 cases, during the process the case trim length adjustment backed off without me realizing it since there is no set screw on the adjustment. This means I just trimmed 1,500 cases that started at 1.750" and are now at 1.730" with varying lengths in between rendering them useless.
If we are being honest, regardless of whether you use a power trimmer of any type, or a hand crank trimmer, it is a good practice to check case length every 10 cases or so to make sure nothing is moving. If you just set it and forget it and run 1,500 cases, a lot of them cut short, then you need to rethink your strategy.
@@johningersoll3931 I agree, you shouldn’t just assume that it’s trimming to the same length every time but I’m talking every 10 cases the adjustment jumps making them shorter and shorter.
Well ok then Bogg, I've had mine for about a year. I like the fact I dont have to hook up the drill to my 'ol bannaza case lathe when I want to trim. The fittings are easyer then the allen wrench s to set up the machine. Still have to champer inside and out side . I wish the machine had more functions like the rcbs, lyman, frankford, ect work stations. Trim time is less then my old machine. I size my cases before I trim anyway , so nothing new there. in all, I like the maching for the price.
Properly sized Once Fired Brass Trimmed using the Shoulder as a reference will result in Case Head to Trimmed Neck measurements being consistent from case to case. If the Base/Neck measurements are inconsistent, then the Trimming itself was inconsistent. The more consistent the case prep process, the more consistent the Head to Trimmed Neck measurement. BTW: The SAAMI spec for 223 Head to Neck is 1.760 +0.000 -0.030 or 1.730Min to 1.760Max.
I have this trimmer and it worked great for about a year and 500 cases, but now I have to send it to Lyman to fix it. The motor is about to die. It starts spinning fine, but after few seconds it slows down and it start making squeaking noise. If I try to trim a case, the motor jams and dents the case. Originally I thought I just needed a new blade, so I ordered one from Lyman website. However, this did not fix the problem. Now I am back trimming my brass using Redding 2400 manual trimmer. When the XPress was working, I was very happy with it. I quickly figured out how to trim within 0.002" all my brass. When the motor started to slow down, I noticed that I had to trim the same case twice to reach my target brass length without changing the size setting wheel (trim, pull back case and then insert it again and trim). Hopefully, Lyman will fix the issue or send me another unit. As a said, when this machine works, it does a great job and it is super easy to use. Luckily, I only shoot 6.5CM and 308Win and both of my rifles are custom chambered for specific bullet grains, so I have only to trim once in a while. My Lapua 6.5CM brass has been reloaded 7 or 8 cycles and the cased grew only 0.002" to 0.003", so I think I will shoot out the barrel before I need to trim the 6.5CM brass. My 308Win grows about 0.002" after a reloading cycle, so I just need to trim 308Win about every 3 or 4 cycles. I do FL sizing and I clean (sonicate) my brass twice. First time I clean the brass using JB Paste to make the neck area perfectly shiny and clean (carbon gunk on a case, especially neck and shoulder area can negatively affect sizing) and then I sonicate for 60min using Lyman detergent. Afterwards I dry my cases (I use warm air blast and swabs), I size them and do case prep (I wait for primer pocket to get dry since it is much easier to clean primer pocket when the pocket is dry than wet). At the end I sonicate prepared case for another 60 minutes using the same Lyman solution I was using for the first wash cycle. At the end, my Lapua brass looks new and super clean inside (I inspect every case with flash light). I do about 10 washing cycles with the same Lyman sonicating solution (I mix 1:40 in lab grade deionized water). Over two years of reloading, one lesson that I learned is that you save money by buying high-end reloading tools and brass. After I tried Lapua brass, I do not use anything else. It is one of the best investments that a reloader can make and in a long run it saves you money as you do not have to buy new brass for a long time.
You trimmed 223 that was not sized and I believe you had a mix of 308 , this explains the extreme range of measurements. If you had fully resized brass your measurements would be much closer and a better example for the people watching.
This piece of kit looks promising. Thanks for reviewing. REALLY looking forward to single stage video you have coming out. Please tell me it’s gonna be this month! Take care...
This is a lot of trimmer for the money, but the QC is typical made in China stuff. I bought some CTS made in the USA trimmers that work exactly like this, but it’s machined perfectly and the tolerances are perfect No need to rotate the case to ensure a square cut on the trimmer. The CTSTrimmer doesn’t come with bushings so you need a cutter bet caliber, but the investment is way worth it. Use a Cordless drill or mount the cutters to a motor and your in business. Also the CTS trimmer can be ordered with exact case head dimension based on your fired cases it’s an amazing setup with the CTS I wish LYMAN did a better QC of these to insure the connection to the cutter and the motor run out was Zero and they used a better motor/ gearing setup as it’s noisy
The Lyman is more expensive, but the way the bushing works with the compression washer is a big improvement over what the Little Crow unit can do. I think they are both good products, but at different price points/etc.
You change the bushing and readjust...but it's simple and quick. It's a very user friendly system. I love mine. Fast, smooth, pretty quiet, very clean smooth trim...could almost skip a chamfer and debur...but I don't...
It has been said that “The road to hell is paved with good intentions.” but a new phrase for what you just did for me is “ The road to independence of independence of designis paved with Patent Permits.”
It was looking good until the plus or minus .005" part. I guess it's good for plinking ammo. I'll stick to my Wilson trimmer and cordless driver. That is dead on.
Dissapointed. I haven't heard of this before and I was hoping it would be an alternative to a dillon press mounted trimmer. Maybe someone will make adapters later on to mount it onto Dillon X650?
Holy cow can more people whine. The guy did a good job. Everyone wants a $150 trimmer to do a $500 job. Get over it, it works very well for what it is. Or go spend a $110 on a Hornady and crank your little heart out..... As long as you have their shell holders. Smile it's easier to make light of things than complain.
bonjour je suis tireur sportif en france et j'ai 2 arme un en 308 et un mauser en 300 SAVAGE je doit former les 308 en 300 s est'il possible de le faire merci super video
Not really...because it measures from the shoulder... but turning the case does potentially true up the trim. If by chance one side is a little longer (not perfectly square) turning it 180 and pushing it in again will even out the longer side (and will not touch the shorter side) thereby squaring or truing it up...
After reading a lot of the comments, strikes me that there are two basic kinds of reloaders. Those who are satisfied with what they do and those that are unsatisfied with everything anybody else does.
Wow, well said :) Welcome to my world...
You're completely right, great reply. I bought the unit on UR's recommendation so I could save my hands from hurting, and it works well.
Mic drop. Well put.
And those like me; who relentlessly are refining what I do to get even better results.
@@slackleashdogtraining3598 The pursuit of better is a lot of what craftsmanship is about..but beware...sometimes the enemy of good is better. I am a master stringed instrument craftsman and only have found this out the hard way when I go that one bridge too far and kill a couple of hours worth of work.
Hi Gavin- Liz from Lyman Products here. You can also mount the trimmer perpendicular to the front of your bench so you are pushing down to trim each case instead of sideways for an even more comfortable motion. This was suggested by another reloader at SHOT Show.
Awesome- will try that- good to hear from you Liz!
Where do the shavings all end up if oriented that way?
@@gerrymatheson4020
I think in your lap.
But a short plastic bowl, with a hole centered in its bottom, that fits over the collar's threaded bace should minimize the mess.
Think of a Brass Confetti Catching Saucer. HaHa
I'd put a Long Think into this before trying it out.......
Where is this trimmer made? Thanks.
@@walleyewilly8085😂 you already know...
A quick comment to the folks talking about the varying trim lengths; those aren't a result of this case trimmer being "inaccurate". Any case trimmer that uses the case shoulder to index (such as the Giraud, WFT, Frankford Arsenal, Lyman etc.) will only cut as accurately as your shoulder bump. You'll notice in the video he's getting varying trim lengths on the .308 batches; this is most likely a result of him using mixed headstamp brass, unannealed brass that has a mixed number of firings; or his sizing die is setup to 'over bump' the shoulder beyond what is required, and you're seeing the varying springback in the brass. Regardless, it's not an issue with the trimmer. The adjustment on where the trimmer indexes never changes/moves.
You can think of any 'shoulder indexing' case trimmer as effectively the same thing as a trimming headspace comparator. Any deviation in the brass is going to show up in your trim lenghts. As a result, to get an accurate trim (within .001 across ~100 cases), the rest of your process needs to be wire tight (same headstamp, annealing each firing, dies setup properly). That said, having a few thousandths (.001-.005) difference in brass length is not going to affect your groups at all, at any range, or any discipline.
The Anal-Squad likes perfection!
I agree about the shoulder variances. That’s why I prefer an LE Wilson for any precision work.
SuperDutyTX: I agree. I will take a " SHOULDER INDEXED TRIMMED case " over an "overall case trimmed case " ANY DAY. Reason why. Your neck length WILL be more consistent with a "shoulder indexed". Funny how some will worry about the overall case length, and then be INCONSISTENT in their "neck chamfer depth", thus changing neck length. BEST way for the "Anal-Squad" would be a shoulder with an cutter that a least cuts the chamfer too at the same time it trims. If some one can show me different I am willing to learn.
Exactly...
LE Wilson
I love how the printing on Lyman boxes give me the impression that I am about to open a new-old-stock that has been hermetically sealed since it was made new in the 1970's.
Being new to reloading I've been doing a ton of research and love your videos and information. This information was extremely helpful and finalized my choice to by this trimmer. I am impressed. The ease of use and consistency once you have it "dialed" in to what you want - best purchase I've made! Saves a ton of time and my bum shoulder! Thank you.
Thank you for your support and knowledge. You have knon idea how important and helpful you are to our community. I’m just starting out reloading. The first(and hope only)reload I purchased is the Dillon XL750.
It’s quite a complex setup. I’m 56 and have been a gun enthusiast all my adult life. After building my own AR15/AR10 rifles I thought 6.5 Grendel is quite expensive not to mention 450BM/308/300blk/223/9mm and so on. It seemed to be my next step towards enjoying my hobby more. I can’t wait to shoot 6.5 Grendel in the rifle I built with ammo I made. Pretty excited about it. Oh and I purchased the Lyman and don’t remember what I did with the instructions. I thought no worries I’ll just go to my local reloading expert and see. Again thank you so very much. Sean Winner
Suggest you try a Forster drill press trimmer with a three way cutter, it trims, chamfers and deburrs in one operation.
This is what I was leaning towards, but I cant find a three way cutter in .25 caliber, any ideas?
So does the Giraud Tri Way Trimmer and is faster then using a drill press.
Thanks for the reviews on this and other equipment. I think I heard you say to trim then rotate the brass 180 degrees and trim again to make sure it's square. If the first trim isn't square, rotating the brass 180 and trimming again will not make it square, it will make the next shaped like a tubular spearhead. Sloped so slightly you can't see it, bu tit will not be square. If the machine doesn't trim square on the initial insertion, it is defective
The 180deg rotation gives you a second chance at proper shell case alignment relative to the cutting head.
Same when precision seating bullets.
Your comment is pertinent if we assume perfect case alignment, which isn't possible given the vendor supplied case alignment colletts.
A 180deg twist is a minor addition to the overall case prep process, as it is with precision bullit seating, both of which are considered, 'Good Reloading Practices'......
I cannot for the life of me get consistent trims. Twisting, pushing lightly, pushing hard, everything. Nothing would get me consistent trims. Switched to the RT1500 and it worked great. The huge price difference sucks but so much more consistent and I’m very happy.
Frankford arsenal does this same operation and more.
These type machines work off referencing the shoulder of the case. Therefore if you're very consistent when you resize, you'll get consistent overall length when you trim.
I've always purchased 3 way trimmers because they're worth the money to me. But I've seen some of these universal type trimmers be VERY hard to get repeatable and consistent results from. This one looks like a winner! - But if you only shoot a few calibers, the Giraud Tri Way Trimmer is a REAL winner of a tool at 105 bucks or so
Agreed! You "get's what you pay for". The only downside, for the Giraud gets a little expensive for each caliber. I started using the Hornady (hand) case trimmer, then bought Lee individual trimmers, and also tried the Lyman EZ Trim set trimmers. Then tried the WFT's in 308 and 223, which weren't too bad, but they didn't chamfer and deburr. I finally spent the money and purchased the Giraud power case trimmer, in 2 calibers. Never been happier, I also purchased a Geraud Tri Way Trimmer in 308, for times when I didn't want to reset the power trimmer from 223 to 308. I bought the Lyman on sale from Midway for $114, for the other misc. calibers I load, on a not too regular basis.
Thanks for your excellent video. It greatly helped me in my purchasing decision. I bought me one and I am very happy with it so far. Greetings from Germany
Only 2 things i wish lyman would change about the unit. Add detents to the adjustment wheel so it locks and is adjustable in half thousandths for the detents, and offer an optional 3-way cutter head like the RCBS 3-way cutter
If I did not already have several WFTs and the Girard trimmer, I would opt for this as it seems to be a good value. I would probably mount this on a block of wood to get it to sit higher for comfort as having my hands in a tray full of brass shavings is not comfortable. I suggest using PUG17 (or similar) gloves to give a better grip on the base and protect hands. As a timesaver, I suggest twisting the brass while in contact with the cutter to make it square in lieu of pulling it out turning and re-inserting.
Why over the giraud? I don't have the motor unit but the triway.. But both have trim, chamfer, and deburing.
After using this you'd still have to do 2 more passes on a separate device
I have no issues holding onto them, even with a little Unique lube left on them or my fingers from resizing. Because it's spring loaded you control the pressure and can ease it into the cutter. I mostly just push on the base with my thumb and don't even really "hold on to" the case head...
I agree with you about truing up the trim by turning the case...kind of. I just ease up the pressure, turn it a bit, press it again, repeat a couple times til nothing touches the cutter...
Seems like fairly accurate machine The problem is after you trim them all the length you have to take time to debut the inside and the outside of the case mouth and neck. That takes a lot of extra time. I use RCBS trimmer with a 3 way cutter system after the case trim the length is automatically Debured on the inside and the outside.
I was just thinking the same thing.i have a Lee 3 way trimmer I think I'll just stick with it because as you say using this machine you are just adding another process.
I'm wondering that the variable length such as Super Duty is describing, may create an issue with crimping, .005 is a lot, could require sorting cases and crimp adjustments to make it consistent, for those who have a need to do it. Setting the crimp on a short case could cause issues on the long ones. Something to consider at least.
He was .007" difference in 3 cases .... terrible imo
Use a collet crimp and absolute case length no longer matters.
I've got this trimmer. Nice machine and easy set up and use.
Its really all about what you're welling to pay. The Lyman does an adequate job of trimming for $150, But the Giraud and Henderson trimers are the ultimate. They deburr and champher at the same time. Henderson $778 and the Giraud around $495. But by the time you add cutters and holders/collets , they even out around $900.for say four different calibers. But they are sweet
I bought one of these and am glad i did. I like to resize my brass first before i trim them though.
??
Of course...that's the correct way to do it...and I believe that is what he was demonstrating...
Ps...I love mine... The case trim Xpress combined with the case prep Xpress make a great pair!
They index off the shoulder so if you have any variations in your bump/sizing process it will show up when you trim
This reminds me a lot of the trimmer built into the Frankford Arsenal case prep center.
I want this trimmer! Thanks for the review Gavin 👍🇨🇦
YES!!!! I've been waiting and waiting for this.
WhiskyTangoFoxtrot33 check out a gracey or a giruard trimmer before this thing !
Yes it looks good but you still have to debur and chamfer and from what i see it will only do bottle neck cases so i will stay with my old Hornady trimer and power drill
I see it doesn't chamfer/debuff like a Giraud. Honestly, I prefer not to chamfer/deburr on the trimmer.
I've noticed when I wet tumble after I chamfer/deburr (when I use my giruad) it files down the sharp edge and changes the OAL of the case. I prefer a flat cut, wet tumble, then chamfer after the cases dry (no need to deburr if you wet tumble). Looks like an awesome product!
FYI, to get around the issue with the Giraud I can only trim the cases after I have wet tumbled them.
@@drfroglegs You can adjust the amount of deburring and chamferring right? My 223 cutter came installed and set with very aggressive chamferring. It goes so deep and case neck could almost cut my finger. I adjusted the cutter angle a little bit to get it to deburr and chamfer the way I wanted.
@@k.w5804 the cutter is in a V shape. You can adjust it so there is less of an angle on the chamfer, but doing so will add more of an angle on the deburr (and visa versa). To my knowledge there is no way to cut without a chamfer and deburr due to the V shape of the cutter.
@@drfroglegs True it's always less of one and more of the other. I haven't used Giraud for a long time. I have actually grown to like my Dillon rt1500 and its squre cut, which was what I disliked in the first place to get the Giraud lol. I use M die to just touch the case neck then tumble and load away. If I feel fancy, I will use hand tool to debur and chamfer. For both 223 and 308, I couldn't tell any difference in accuracy be it trimmed by Giraud or Dillon. They are all sub-moa ammo if I do my part.
I have been using the Lee case trimmer that I need to attach to a power drill and after about fifty pieces, my fingers are sore. I hate case trimming but this looks like an easy way to accomplish this task.
I just ordered one these after trimming 1500 rounds of .223 with the same 3-jaw Lee trimmer, it took me the better part of 12 hours to get through them all. My fingers felt like they were about to fall off lol. It gives really accurate and consistent results but the wear and tear to your digits is just plain old unacceptable. It's great for low-volume high-accuracy reloading but when you get into the hundreds or especially thousands of rounds, no thank you...
This is ok, but the Giraud is the end all. They make one for $100 that goes on a hand drill that trims, deburs and chamfers at the same time. Each case is exactly the same. Get one of those and you’ll never look back. If I was wanting to stay with something like this, I would get the Franklin Armory trimmer that has 3 other operations on it (which I do have, but the giraud is still the way to go)
Only negative with the giraud is the tri way is only available in 4 calibers. Major ones. Built a 6.5 grendel so I was “forced” to buy the bench top powered version. Lol
@@soilrulz13 I didn't even know that brand
How do you adjust the giraud? Like if after one pass through your brass is still off from where you want them, can you adjust it?
@@musicman1eanda You can adjust it, BUT, once you set it up, there is no need for adjustments, unless you change calibers. here's the link: ruclips.net/video/xwwUjBD8R38/видео.html
I used mine for the first time yesterday for 30-06 brass. I couldn't believe how easy it was to adjust and use. Now I don't dread trimming rifle brass. Now they need to come up with some kind of adapter for straight walled brass.
The only way I see a straight case being trimmed in such a way would be with a bearing perfectly sized to the inner casing that free floats as you insert the case to be trimmed. Maybe just a blank or slug would work as well with the outer edge slotted so it could cut the case only after being properly resized. Just a thought.
Cool video, thanks for sharing as that makes life easier for any volume shooter
I noticed the primers were still intact. How did you know the true size if you didnt resize first?
Good catch. I saw that one too !
I thought he said they were resized...he read it off the box of .308... so apparently resized and reprimed...
Hi Gavin thanks for the review, However, how does the Lyman compare to your earlier reviews of the L.E. Wilson case trimmer with the micrometer and slow speed drill attachment you reviewed. BTW I always enjoy your video however I get confused as which you recommend since you seem to review something new every week. Therefore which I would buy is always a toss-up when comparing similar tools with all the reviews you have published. In addition, I will be waiting to hear your final recommendation for Single Stage press reviews you have mentioned in a shoot out.
If I didn't already have the Frankford Arsenal Platinum, this would've already been in transit and ready for my bench!
I really appreciate that it has integrated speed control.
have you created a trimmer comparison lineup? or have you considered doing one?
Also, I called Lyman on getting a few extra springs as I see the weak spot on this tool.
Since using the RCBS Trim Pro 3 way cutter, I just can't go back to a standard trim head. I do like the quick and easy method this has. But you still have to do the chamfer and debur work instead of all in one cutting with the 3 way head
Sir I may have misheard ya. But for the .223 isn't the trim length 1.750? Max case length as you stated is 1.760.
You are correct, the max length is 1.760 according to Hornady vol.10. Hornady also recommends a 1.750 Trim Length.
@@duckslayer11000 yeah that is just one of the manuals that reference those numbers. So I may have misunderstood what was said in the video
@@heathboeddeker5401 I heard the same thing.
He said case length is 1.76 and then went on to say he was trimming to 1.75. I think he just forgot to say max in front of case length.
After being fired, the shoulders need to be bumped back, so, one should always expect non-uniform case lengths when trimming cases that have not already been resized to SAAMI specs.
Can you do this on a mill? Set up a jig and hold 10 cases at a time? Idk of it would be faster
This is a very good presentation as are all of your discussions that you provide to us. I would like to suggest that when you evaluate a (new product) that a comparison be made to another product of the same function in order to benchmark the results of the new product. Of all your products, you may have the opinion of a "favorite" and why for comparison to the new product evaluations.
Sizing on the shoulder does create inconsistent length unless they are all new same lot or manufacturer or been shot out of the same rifle. If they are not all the same if you crimp the crimp could vary. Looks like it would be fast way to do bullets for the same rifle under those circumstances. Personally I do one at a time with inexpensive Lee Trimmer by hand. Length is always the same. Easy enough to do just watching television. I use a light crimp on all my rounds and I know they are the same length with the Lee Trimmer. If one is going to trim off the shoulder and only have one caliber there are better options. I do own an older Lyman Power Trimmer that just sits because it doesn't even square the cut. It's alignment is off. It does look like this new one would be squared but it most likely costs more than it's worth. A Lil Crow caliber specific would be a better way to go if one was only doing one to a few calibers. Lyman makes some good stuff, but they make their share of not so good stuff too.
I wonder if you could ditch the spring- and insert a washer in its place same thickness as the spring when compressed??
I ditched the spring altogether soon after starting a big batch of 223. No washer or anything. Ran fine, actually better, easier and faster. I got sick of fighting the increasing tension as the case was getting closer to indexing on the shoulder. Unless I jammed it in there with force every time I wouldn’t get consistent trim length from shoulder to mouth.
Sometimes I over did it and made some lines around the datum line because it’s difficult to get a good feel when you have the right amount of pressure. And by having to press harder it’s easier to get uneven cuts because of the inherent slop in the unit.
No spring and now consistent and more even cuts. Just pay attention to push it in straight in line every time. I wear a thin rubber coated work glove and just jam it home and it goes fast.
Love your videos . Can you tell me where to purchase the Press mounting tracks you use on your counter top ?
Been watching your videos and just came across this,,,,,!!!!,,,,really enjoy watching yer tubes,,,,,!!!! I have been using the Possum Hollow trimmers for years and they trim off the shoulders,,,,,!!!! Just a heads up, all cases should be run though your full length die first before you trim,,,,!!!!! I notice on your 223s some had primers and some did not,,,,,!!!! Keep up the good work,,,,,,
eh looks decent for high volume reloading and convenient may buy if i get into burning cartridges for an ar15 etc. but still cant beat the wilson trimmer for precision
What about chamfer and deburing?
Noob reloader here: How often should you trim cases? Say you get factory ammo, fire it, clean, size/deprime, prime charge load again. Should you trim each time or every so many reloads?
Thank you Gavin and early Merry Christmas
Couldn't the same tool slso chamfer the case mouth at the ssme time, if they shaped the tooling for it? (Lyman, that'll cost you you a 10% commission if you do it.)
That would require either a cutter head which has to be adjusted for each calibre (i.e. basic neck diameter) or interchangeable calibre specific fixed cutter heads - both solutions are already in use by other manufacturers so perhaps no commission from Lyman for you this time.
Noob question. Should I resize de prime first?
Yes, you should resize/deprime first, trim accordingly, chamfer/deburr. I thought I saw GT's .223 casings were still primed as he was trimming them. Possibly to only demonstrate the trimming process. I may be wrong on his particular process...GT may resize, trim, deprime and onto the next task. Reloaders have their ways and it is very interesting to see how we all do our brass preparations. Me, I resize/deprime at the same time, trim (if needed on high volume shooting...definitely on my match ammo), deburr/chamfer and onto next task.
Still have to chamfer and debur. You really ought to showcase the giraud power trimmer. Nothing compares to it in both quality and speed.
I use Giraud 3 way trimmers. I set them up and leave them. I use them in a slow speed drill press in the garage. Cheap enough and works great.
I’ve never used the Giraud, but my Dillon RT1500 is no slouch. Trims thousand cases at a time. With .001-.002 variance. I’d say that’s legit AF
ernestoluzan yet you still have to chamfer and debur after that.
soilrulz13 haven’t had to do it once so far. I’ve loaded thousands of .223 and 300 so far. Not one projectile has been ruined. The RT1500 cutter is really that good.
I want a machine that trims length from same reference point, but also inside and outside chamfers at same time, as well as ability for straight wall pistol cases, and with many popular caliber holders available. Anything like this available for $200 or less?
Thanks
Hi, Can i use 220 Volt too for conected ? Thanks
It only trims to length but no chamfering the mouth so 2 more steps required?
If it could do straight walled cases as well I would already have one on the way. You would think they could develop a bushing to datum off a rimmed straight walled cartridge.
Interesting- I'd have to think about that! :)
The physics of a chambered cartridge are such that the shoulder (for rimless cartridges) is what is limiting how far the case can go into the chamber, and thus the length of the neck from that shoulder forward would also be consistently in the same place in the throat. Recall that we trim cases because we don't want them so far forward they begin to touch the inner diameter of the throat and thus won't be able to expand and release the bullet at safer lower pressures. So trimming the neck length rather than the overall length should always keep you on the safe side of things. But our host was trimming .223 brass which had not been-resized (see the cases with the spent primers in them?). Doesn't trimming the cases BEFORE a full length resizing run the risk of extending the neck again beyond where the cut length was?
You said what I was going to say. I thought you always trim AFTER sizing for that very reason.
@@utahprepper8925 yes, always resize first, then trim.
I didn't notice the .223 weren't resized. He said his tub of .308 was labeled "sized...needs trimmed"... but I'm skeptical cuz the shoulders didn't seem consistent at all, resulting in the length variations...
Can you add a picture of the back of the bushing set so we can see which ones it comes with please?
I am guessing the way to get the most accurate total overall dimension would be to full length resize the cases first?
You always resize first before you trim. Especially important when the bushing is measuring off the shoulder...
DO NOT PROMOTE THIS PRODUCT!
Gavin, I love the channel and I've made several purchases based on your reviews, this one however was a big mistake. I just got finished trimming 1,500 5.56 cases, during the process the case trim length adjustment backed off without me realizing it since there is no set screw on the adjustment. This means I just trimmed 1,500 cases that started at 1.750" and are now at 1.730" with varying lengths in between rendering them useless.
If your shoulder position varied at all that will effect your overall length, since it indexes off the shoulder...
Gerry Matheson Agreed, but I also marked to cutting head adjustment with a sharpie, sure enough, about 15 cuts in it moved.
Once it's set, I check every so often. Great unit.
If we are being honest, regardless of whether you use a power trimmer of any type, or a hand crank trimmer, it is a good practice to check case length every 10 cases or so to make sure nothing is moving. If you just set it and forget it and run 1,500 cases, a lot of them cut short, then you need to rethink your strategy.
@@johningersoll3931 I agree, you shouldn’t just assume that it’s trimming to the same length every time but I’m talking every 10 cases the adjustment jumps making them shorter and shorter.
Well ok then Bogg, I've had mine for about a year. I like the fact I dont have to hook up the drill to my 'ol bannaza case lathe when I want to trim. The fittings are easyer then the allen wrench s to set up the machine. Still have to champer inside and out side . I wish the machine had more functions like the rcbs, lyman, frankford, ect work stations. Trim time is less then my old machine. I size my cases before I trim anyway , so nothing new there. in all, I like the maching for the price.
Seems a contradiction for the trimmer to headspace on the shoulder while you measure from the case head.
Properly sized Once Fired Brass Trimmed using the Shoulder as a reference will result in Case Head to Trimmed Neck measurements being consistent from case to case.
If the Base/Neck measurements are inconsistent, then the Trimming itself was inconsistent.
The more consistent the case prep process, the more consistent the Head to Trimmed Neck measurement.
BTW: The SAAMI spec for 223 Head to Neck is 1.760 +0.000 -0.030 or 1.730Min to 1.760Max.
After trimming, should I chamfer / deburr ?
I am kind of glad I didn't go with the Dillon mounted case trimmer. I guess it would be different if I had 10,000 cases of 308
Does 300blk leave enough of the case sticking out to keep a good hold on it?
I've been doing a bunch of .300blk trimmed to ~1.364 and having no issues holding onto them...
Do you still have to chamfer inside and outside?
Does the Lyman trimmer chamfer and deburr the case mouth???
Daft question will it trim straight wall cases such as 45-70 or 45lc?
Will this case trimmer trim 45-70 cases as the standard lyman case trimmer, you have to buy a 45 pilot. thank you
I have this trimmer and it worked great for about a year and 500 cases, but now I have to send it to Lyman to fix it. The motor is about to die. It starts spinning fine, but after few seconds it slows down and it start making squeaking noise. If I try to trim a case, the motor jams and dents the case. Originally I thought I just needed a new blade, so I ordered one from Lyman website. However, this did not fix the problem. Now I am back trimming my brass using Redding 2400 manual trimmer. When the XPress was working, I was very happy with it. I quickly figured out how to trim within 0.002" all my brass. When the motor started to slow down, I noticed that I had to trim the same case twice to reach my target brass length without changing the size setting wheel (trim, pull back case and then insert it again and trim). Hopefully, Lyman will fix the issue or send me another unit. As a said, when this machine works, it does a great job and it is super easy to use. Luckily, I only shoot 6.5CM and 308Win and both of my rifles are custom chambered for specific bullet grains, so I have only to trim once in a while. My Lapua 6.5CM brass has been reloaded 7 or 8 cycles and the cased grew only 0.002" to 0.003", so I think I will shoot out the barrel before I need to trim the 6.5CM brass. My 308Win grows about 0.002" after a reloading cycle, so I just need to trim 308Win about every 3 or 4 cycles. I do FL sizing and I clean (sonicate) my brass twice. First time I clean the brass using JB Paste to make the neck area perfectly shiny and clean (carbon gunk on a case, especially neck and shoulder area can negatively affect sizing) and then I sonicate for 60min using Lyman detergent. Afterwards I dry my cases (I use warm air blast and swabs), I size them and do case prep (I wait for primer pocket to get dry since it is much easier to clean primer pocket when the pocket is dry than wet). At the end I sonicate prepared case for another 60 minutes using the same Lyman solution I was using for the first wash cycle. At the end, my Lapua brass looks new and super clean inside (I inspect every case with flash light). I do about 10 washing cycles with the same Lyman sonicating solution (I mix 1:40 in lab grade deionized water). Over two years of reloading, one lesson that I learned is that you save money by buying high-end reloading tools and brass. After I tried Lapua brass, I do not use anything else. It is one of the best investments that a reloader can make and in a long run it saves you money as you do not have to buy new brass for a long time.
You trimmed 223 that was not sized and I believe you had a mix of 308 , this explains the extreme range of measurements. If you had fully resized brass your measurements would be much closer and a better example for the people watching.
Does the kit also chamfer and deburr the brass?
Wonder if a 3 way cut head will fit in it
Do you still have to clean the case mouth after the trim?
This piece of kit looks promising. Thanks for reviewing. REALLY looking forward to single stage video you have coming out. Please tell me it’s gonna be this month! Take care...
How come Gavin hasn't do a video on Giraud power trimmer? He's got to have one!
Love mine
This is a lot of trimmer for the money, but the QC is typical made in China stuff. I bought some CTS made in the USA trimmers that work exactly like this, but it’s machined perfectly and the tolerances are perfect
No need to rotate the case to ensure a square cut on the trimmer. The CTSTrimmer doesn’t come with bushings so you need a cutter bet caliber, but the investment is way worth it. Use a Cordless drill or mount the cutters to a motor and your in business. Also the CTS trimmer can be ordered with exact case head dimension based on your fired cases it’s an amazing setup with the CTS
I wish LYMAN did a better QC of these to insure the connection to the cutter and the motor run out was Zero and they used a better motor/ gearing setup as it’s noisy
Am I correct that the cases to be trimmed need to be re-sized before being trimmed?
Yes.
Would this work for trimming 5.7x28?
Can you trim 5.7x28 cartridge cases with this?
so are they all the same length
does lymad make a neck turner or who does
do you trim before or after you resize?
After! The brass lengthens when you size it!
IMO they should have color coded the bushings to different calibers. looks like a great tool tho.
So what would work better for trimming.... Little Crow Gunworks or the new Lyman?
The Lyman is more expensive, but the way the bushing works with the compression washer is a big improvement over what the Little Crow unit can do. I think they are both good products, but at different price points/etc.
@@Ultimatereloader who has the Lyman in stock? I was thinking of buying 2 Little Crow units. 1 for 223 and 1 for 308.
How do you switch between calibers? How do you save the settings? 223 and 308 would trim differently
That's doesn't sound very efficient. I'd be better off keeping my Lyman quick trim.
I can buy 2 Little Crow trimmers and they wouldn't need changed.
You change the bushing and readjust...but it's simple and quick. It's a very user friendly system. I love mine. Fast, smooth, pretty quiet, very clean smooth trim...could almost skip a chamfer and debur...but I don't...
It has been said that “The road to hell is paved with good intentions.” but a new phrase for what you just did for me is “ The road to independence of independence of designis paved with Patent Permits.”
It was looking good until the plus or minus .005" part. I guess it's good for plinking ammo. I'll stick to my Wilson trimmer and cordless driver. That is dead on.
Dissapointed. I haven't heard of this before and I was hoping it would be an alternative to a dillon press mounted trimmer. Maybe someone will make adapters later on to mount it onto Dillon X650?
I forgot to put the spring in, and its A LOT easier, and you can rotate it too. Try it, and let me know how you liked it.
Holy cow can more people whine. The guy did a good job. Everyone wants a $150 trimmer to do a $500 job. Get over it, it works very well for what it is. Or go spend a $110 on a Hornady and crank your little heart out..... As long as you have their shell holders. Smile it's easier to make light of things than complain.
Great review awesome guy
bonjour je suis tireur sportif en france et j'ai 2 arme un en 308 et un mauser en 300 SAVAGE je doit former les 308 en 300 s est'il possible de le faire merci super video
Does it chamfer and debur?
Great video!!
I think I will stick to my TRIM-IT II ..
Where i can find only the cutter?
How do I stop adjustment dial from moving while trimming
But will it do all calibers
Do you use this trimmer before or after resizing the cases?
After resizing
You are trimming the case to 1.750 but the lee and speer reloading manual says to trim it to 1.760 why is that?
1.760 is MAX length... any manual I've seen says 1.750 for a recommended trim length...
for room to stretch.
Does it make a difference if u trim it pull brass out twist an put back in
Like as far as we're it trims to
Not really...because it measures from the shoulder... but turning the case does potentially true up the trim. If by chance one side is a little longer (not perfectly square) turning it 180 and pushing it in again will even out the longer side (and will not touch the shorter side) thereby squaring or truing it up...