Xlogger here. I couldn't begin to work on a saw that dirty, so blow it off first next time, just to keep me happy. You have a good knowledge of the how's why's and when's of a chainsaw, and your illustrations are top rate. Thank you for that. That 039 has a distinct honkey note to it, which I like, and we had one on the yard for a backup to the 046 and 066 saws. You earned my subscription. Good job now get back to work.
Hey Patrick, Thanks for watching and the feedback. I'm learning what viewers like to see and I plan to make changes to my work flow. Really appreciate you. Thanks man!
Yeah man…that’s definitely a great candidate for a good coat of dollar store over cleaner then after that 15 minute soaking a good warm water pressure washing completely removing all that caked on grease and chip debris from the entire saw… tearing it down anyway… if you ziplock bag your intake and muffler you can pressure wash it super clean then use the shop air to blow it pretty dry…. I use several rounds of PB Blaster and air to actually clean the bottom of the engine and the ring grooves if it’s not coming completely apart…two days upside down with some Evaporust in the top of your cylinder through your exhaust port window so it’s soaking the ring grooves also and all that carbon buildup and old junk in your ring grooves can be blown clean with the shop air and brake cleaner…just remove the spark plug with it upside down and catch the juice for the next project as it’s good for several dozen cleanups… blown up upside down and it’s just like new again! No disassembly required! LMFFAO!
@@garysnyder6020. But he doesn’t have grime imbedded in his finger tips 😂. Seems to know the basics of small engine repair, just needs a little bit of housecleaning replies 😂. Kids 😊
I really hope the customer appreciates all the work you have done on this chainsaw ! I have never seen a chainsaw in such a filthy state, to present this in a totally gunged up condition like this should have cost him twice the usual price of the work done. As for ethanol, I cant believe governments have inflicted this contaminating stuff on us, it really cannot be considered echo friendly as it is causing an early death to many small machines and vehicles, I now strip the ethanol out of all my small engine fuel, it is a very easy thing to do, and it ensures a long life for the carb components. Many thanks for posting this video! Chris B.
I'm also glad I read about ethanol damage. I used premium fuel and Stihl oil mix. Only used 2.5 litres then per Stihl instructions, emptied the fuel and ran it dry. I have a few cans of Tru Fuel now for future use. Long term storage and no ethanol.
Why start the saw without the air filter - two screws! Second, looking at the spark plug first will tell you a ton about engine condition. Oily? New rings, white? running lean. Basic stuff you ignored!
Glad you put him a rim sprocket on there and got away from the spur. I like to run the saw on low idle prior to putting the bar on to check the oiler. You never check the seals. One guy on RUclips sprayed brake cleaner on each seal and if it died, he replaced them. What's ur opinion of using break cleaner to check the seals vs pressure & vacuum test? What's ur opinion of break cleaner test on the impulse line?
Hey Marty! Thanks for the view and comment. Let me say first, everybody has an opinion and I'm not saying anybody is wrong or anything. However, In my opinion, I would not make a habit of using brake or carburetor cleaner on seals or the impulse line. A vac and pressure test is best. The reason I say this is because the cleaning agents in brake or carb cleaner are damaging to rubber like materials. To see what I mean drop a carburetor diaphragm or piece of fuel line in chemdip and you will see. However, if your testing seals on a saw, you're probably not testing them very often on the same chainsaw. This will be ok probably. I just would not do often on the same saw.
You want to use spray can carburetor cleaner not the brake cleaner and if you can find the 2+2 or the Berrymen’s brand carburetor cleaner then I highly recommend those brand’s because they have a little lubrication in there cleaning mixture… it’s just getting sucked into the little air leak void and it’s actually just blocking some of the air volume that the carburetor was set to idle on and it goes “rich” and kills your engine… if you just use the little spray tube on the can and do a little blast it’ll kill your engine or maybe make it dip down if it’s a tiny air leak… it’s just a really super fast technique because you can hit both sides for your seals and your cylinder base and your impulse lines and the whole operation won’t take you 5 minutes… it’s definitely more accurate to vacuum and pressure test one but getting your carburetor opening and then your muffler port’s blocked off with the soft rubber over your metal plate’s takes me longer to just drag out the MityVac and get started so it’s like a 20 minute deal… if’s a great quick test after a quick rebuild just for some insurance that it’s good and tight… no brake cleaner only a quality carburetor cleaner 👍😉
@@martylost167yes indeed…and it’s just a really huge ordeal when we are just getting started out because we haven’t got a huge collection of our metal blocking plates with a little piece of semi truck or old auto inter tube 3m spray adhesive or a rubber cement coating on the rubber to bond it to your plate’s… I made a couple circles and ovals and I’ll slap one over the carburetor inlet and the muffler outlet and I’ll just grab a 12” speed clamp from harbor freight over them and squeezing the handle once to apply some clamping force to seal them up and on to my spark plug hole adapter for my test! As a poor hillbilly boy I’d just strip down my plastic covers and I adapted an old bike tire pump for my air and I’d go 7psi and I’d just drop them down into a plastic tub of water like doing a car tire bubble test and look for the bubbles to see what was leaking! Still using the old plastic tote bubbles test for the hard to find leak’s!! LMFFAO
By writing; Don’t use this stuff, you’re referring to ethanol mixed fuel ? ? Is so I agree, using synthetic fuels is better and cheaper in the long run
Why on earth would you not take an air hose to blast the sawdust off from the carburetor before taking it apart? As a former aircraft mechanic, heavy equipment mechanic, truck mechanic, small engine mechanic…….West Chazy didn’t need gloves to protect our hands from grunge, and you can’t properly work on it if you can’t see what you’re doing. Yeah it was neglected and filthy. Great image of that. Air, then air pressure mixed with solvent or soap works miracles 😂. Try an old man trick….clean the damn thing before trashing your bench 😅. You are welcome 😊
JB Weld will fix that bar stud. Clean everything with Break Cleaner and blow dry. Allow JB Weld to set a minimum of 24 hours. Rough up the plastic as best you can.
I promise you this bar stud is very solid and not going anywhere. Probably stronger than it has ever been and will outlast this chainsaw, more than likely. Regarding why I didn't use a helix oil, I said in the video at one point, I think in the tank vent area, that we were pressed for time by the owner. We didn't have the correct helicoil on hand and didn't have time to order. The Bar Stud is great though. Thanks for watching and the comment!
@@chainsawace1777 I’ve just seen that “fix” fail A-LOT and I have to heli coil them for people. In my experience the heat gets to the epoxy and just weakens it. I’d also keep those and the m5/6 heli coils for quick repairs for people, good way to help out some one and make a few bucks
Looking at this I'm glad I clean my saw with the same mentality as I do my firearms. Then again, I'm no professional so I'm not using the saw daily. That said, gunk doesn't age and harden on my saw.
This log wedge was taken from the ancient forest known as The Fire Swamp, popularized in the documentary "The Princess Bride". Thanks so much for watching.
Like the comment below I blow off all my parts before I start working on. I use an old dishwasher like a steam clear the cleanup all of plastic parts and case parts then I reassemble the saw and it looks like new
That was a very helpful video for someone that likes to do their own repairs. BTW: don't worry about your fingernails. Only your mother and wife cares about that.
Xlogger here. I couldn't begin to work on a saw that dirty, so blow it off first next time, just to keep me happy. You have a good knowledge of the how's why's and when's of a chainsaw, and your illustrations are top rate. Thank you for that. That 039 has a distinct honkey note to it, which I like, and we had one on the yard for a backup to the 046 and 066 saws. You earned my subscription. Good job now get back to work.
Hey Patrick,
Thanks for watching and the feedback.
I'm learning what viewers like to see and I plan to make changes to my work flow.
Really appreciate you. Thanks man!
Yeah man…that’s definitely a great candidate for a good coat of dollar store over cleaner then after that 15 minute soaking a good warm water pressure washing completely removing all that caked on grease and chip debris from the entire saw… tearing it down anyway… if you ziplock bag your intake and muffler you can pressure wash it super clean then use the shop air to blow it pretty dry…. I use several rounds of PB Blaster and air to actually clean the bottom of the engine and the ring grooves if it’s not coming completely apart…two days upside down with some Evaporust in the top of your cylinder through your exhaust port window so it’s soaking the ring grooves also and all that carbon buildup and old junk in your ring grooves can be blown clean with the shop air and brake cleaner…just remove the spark plug with it upside down and catch the juice for the next project as it’s good for several dozen cleanups… blown up upside down and it’s just like new again! No disassembly required! LMFFAO!
I can't watch it's so dirty. Bye
@@garysnyder6020. But he doesn’t have grime imbedded in his finger tips 😂. Seems to know the basics of small engine repair, just needs a little bit of housecleaning replies 😂. Kids 😊
I use to be a bar stud...😂 Great video.
Thanks for the comment and view.
I really hope the customer appreciates all the work you have done on this chainsaw ! I have never seen a chainsaw in such a filthy state, to present this in a totally gunged up condition like this should have cost him twice the usual price of the work done. As for ethanol, I cant believe governments have inflicted this contaminating stuff on us, it really cannot be considered echo friendly as it is causing an early death to many small machines and vehicles, I now strip the ethanol out of all my small engine fuel, it is a very easy thing to do, and it ensures a long life for the carb components. Many thanks for posting this video! Chris B.
Yes, this was alot of work. LOL Thanks so much for the great comment and watching the video. Really appreciate you.
I'm also glad I read about ethanol damage. I used premium fuel and Stihl oil mix. Only used 2.5 litres then per Stihl instructions, emptied the fuel and ran it dry.
I have a few cans of Tru Fuel now for future use. Long term storage and no ethanol.
You're doing it right man!
Thanks for watching!
My local gas station carries non ethanol fuel and I use that.
It is a shame that people dot clean up their saws.
If you knew what I've seen over the years, you would be be surprised for sure.
Thanks for watching.
Epoxy and steel wool…..I learned something and I thought I knew everything. 😊
Why start the saw without the air filter - two screws! Second, looking at the spark plug first will tell you a ton about engine condition. Oily? New rings, white? running lean. Basic stuff you ignored!
Glad you put him a rim sprocket on there and got away from the spur. I like to run the saw on low idle prior to putting the bar on to check the oiler.
You never check the seals. One guy on RUclips sprayed brake cleaner on each seal and if it died, he replaced them.
What's ur opinion of using break cleaner to check the seals vs pressure & vacuum test?
What's ur opinion of break cleaner test on the impulse line?
Hey Marty!
Thanks for the view and comment.
Let me say first, everybody has an opinion and I'm not saying anybody is wrong or anything.
However, In my opinion, I would not make a habit of using brake or carburetor cleaner on seals or the impulse line. A vac and pressure test is best.
The reason I say this is because the cleaning agents in brake or carb cleaner are damaging to rubber like materials.
To see what I mean drop a carburetor diaphragm or piece of fuel line in chemdip and you will see.
However, if your testing seals on a saw, you're probably not testing them very often on the same chainsaw. This will be ok probably. I just would not do often on the same saw.
You want to use spray can carburetor cleaner not the brake cleaner and if you can find the 2+2 or the Berrymen’s brand carburetor cleaner then I highly recommend those brand’s because they have a little lubrication in there cleaning mixture… it’s just getting sucked into the little air leak void and it’s actually just blocking some of the air volume that the carburetor was set to idle on and it goes “rich” and kills your engine… if you just use the little spray tube on the can and do a little blast it’ll kill your engine or maybe make it dip down if it’s a tiny air leak… it’s just a really super fast technique because you can hit both sides for your seals and your cylinder base and your impulse lines and the whole operation won’t take you 5 minutes… it’s definitely more accurate to vacuum and pressure test one but getting your carburetor opening and then your muffler port’s blocked off with the soft rubber over your metal plate’s takes me longer to just drag out the MityVac and get started so it’s like a 20 minute deal… if’s a great quick test after a quick rebuild just for some insurance that it’s good and tight… no brake cleaner only a quality carburetor cleaner 👍😉
Thanks alot!
The vacuum and pressure test maybe a 20 minute ordeal for you, but could take me days or weeks. @@DaveyBlue32
@@martylost167yes indeed…and it’s just a really huge ordeal when we are just getting started out because we haven’t got a huge collection of our metal blocking plates with a little piece of semi truck or old auto inter tube 3m spray adhesive or a rubber cement coating on the rubber to bond it to your plate’s… I made a couple circles and ovals and I’ll slap one over the carburetor inlet and the muffler outlet and I’ll just grab a 12” speed clamp from harbor freight over them and squeezing the handle once to apply some clamping force to seal them up and on to my spark plug hole adapter for my test! As a poor hillbilly boy I’d just strip down my plastic covers and I adapted an old bike tire pump for my air and I’d go 7psi and I’d just drop them down into a plastic tub of water like doing a car tire bubble test and look for the bubbles to see what was leaking! Still using the old plastic tote bubbles test for the hard to find leak’s!! LMFFAO
very helpful video about carburetor cleaning and rebuild.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Stay tuned. We have many projects in production right now that I think you will like as well.
I need a husqvarna 345 fuel tank replacement video if ya get time, please?
By writing; Don’t use this stuff, you’re referring to ethanol mixed fuel ? ?
Is so I agree, using synthetic fuels is better and cheaper in the long run
Why on earth would you not take an air hose to blast the sawdust off from the carburetor before taking it apart? As a former aircraft mechanic, heavy equipment mechanic, truck mechanic, small engine mechanic…….West Chazy didn’t need gloves to protect our hands from grunge, and you can’t properly work on it if you can’t see what you’re doing. Yeah it was neglected and filthy. Great image of that. Air, then air pressure mixed with solvent or soap works miracles 😂. Try an old man trick….clean the damn thing before trashing your bench 😅. You are welcome 😊
JB Weld will fix that bar stud. Clean everything with Break Cleaner and blow dry. Allow JB Weld to set a minimum of 24 hours. Rough up the plastic as best you can.
This is another great option.
Thank you for the input and for watching John!
Why not use a helicoil or actual tread repair? The epoxy will work in a pinch but it won’t actually hold up for any length of time
I promise you this bar stud is very solid and not going anywhere.
Probably stronger than it has ever been and will outlast this chainsaw, more than likely.
Regarding why I didn't use a helix oil, I said in the video at one point, I think in the tank vent area, that we were pressed for time by the owner. We didn't have the correct helicoil on hand and didn't have time to order. The Bar Stud is great though.
Thanks for watching and the comment!
@@chainsawace1777 I’ve just seen that “fix” fail A-LOT and I have to heli coil them for people. In my experience the heat gets to the epoxy and just weakens it. I’d also keep those and the m5/6 heli coils for quick repairs for people, good way to help out some one and make a few bucks
Looking at this I'm glad I clean my saw with the same mentality as I do my firearms. Then again, I'm no professional so I'm not using the saw daily. That said, gunk doesn't age and harden on my saw.
Thanks for the comment and the view!
Did you check the bar oil feed? If you did, I missed it.
You didn't miss it. I did not check it on camera. It does work great though.
Thanks so much for the comment and the view!
why do you not clean the machines before working on them at least blow the majority of the the dirt and grim away ?
Hey up mate what sort ov wood is that log wedge
This log wedge was taken from the ancient forest known as The Fire Swamp, popularized in the documentary "The Princess Bride".
Thanks so much for watching.
Hey up mate thanks for the reply liked your answer, I was joking when asking which sort of wood is that
What solution are you using in your SONIC.C LEANER?
Awesome All Purpose Cleaner is what was used in the ultrasonic cleaner.
I left a link in the description.
Thanks for watching.
Looks like that chainsaw was never cleaned
Like the comment below I blow off all my parts before I start working on. I use an old dishwasher like a steam clear the cleanup all of plastic parts and case parts then I reassemble the saw and it looks like new
Brake Parts Cleaner And A Water Hose Lol!! Whoever Owned That Saw Wins TheI’m Lazy As Hell Award
That was a very helpful video for someone that likes to do their own repairs.
BTW: don't worry about your fingernails. Only your mother and wife cares about that.
So I can skip the manicure? Thanks for the comment and the view my friend.
@@chainsawace1777 Just use a nail brush at the end of the day like anyone else that works around grease and oil.
Mainly wife and it can't get dark enough for her. "What are you doing?"
THIS VIDIO IS NOT ABOUT AN ETHANOL chainsaw , CRAP .