Understand & Eliminate Algae in Your Newly Cycled Aquarium. Grow Amazing Plants Stop the Green Algae
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- Опубликовано: 18 ноя 2019
- Green Hair Algae - How to Get Rid of It FOREVER... Just Kidding, 3 Ways to Get Rid of Slimy Green Hair Algae
In this video, I hope to ask and answer the following questions about slimy neon green hair algae and hard crusty brown, red or black diatom algae. (everything but blue green algae, cyanobacteria or black beard algea is covered). How to get rid of algae with the blackout method aka the "nuclear method" or "going to the bottle" is not how you should approach your first Algae bloom, especially in a planted tank with high tech substrates, soils, fertilizers, co2, lighting and root tabs.
The holistic method of controlling lights or co2 and trying to out compete the algae growth while also hand removing areas of it, after allowing it to grow enough that it will easily be removed by hand in slimy clumps, followed by a large water change of 50% every 3 days for 1-2 weeks & then several days of 10 to 30% water changes, depending on severity.
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Your channel is my absolute favourite ecology/microhusbandry channel.
Thank you so kindly! I really appreciate the feedback and your viewership. Cheers!
This video is GOLD. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it and welcome!
one of the best explanations of the 'plant cycle' I have seen on RUclips! Thank you, well done!
Glad to hear it made sense haha. Thanks for watching and welcome to the community here. Feel free to ask any questions you may have, or lend some knowledge, likewise if you see a place its needed 👌
What a fantastic analogy, Alex!
I just love your channel and recently subscribed and I am so happy that I did!! You explain things so well. Thanks for all that you do for your subscribers. Keep up the great work 👍
Thank you kindly! Thanks for subscribing commenting, viewing and sharing! Let me know if there's another subject youd like clarified, as well- and i will try my best to cover it ASAP
I’m facing same issues in my new tank and got very much confused. Your video helps me to understand. Thank you.
Right on. Glad to help a bit. Its fairly confusing when it's all new info to learn. Don't be afraid to ask me or the community if you have more questions!
This is kind of a break through for me. Thank you so much for this video!!! You rock!
Awesome. Glad to help a little!
I know this is an older video, but it's a great wealth of info. Thanks Alex!,❤🇨🇦
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great metaphor to help folk understand this.
You have a knack for simplifying complicated concepts so they can be more easily digested by hungry minds.
Thanks Daniel! Have a great week, my friend!
Thankyou so much for explaining this. I’m trying to cycle a tank and I realise now I don’t need to panic (yet) 👍
Oh good! It's my pleasure. If you ever have questions, just ask! I'm here to help, as are many other skilled fish and plant keepers
Very well done. Brovo! 😊
Great video for beginners!
Alex you rock!!! I absolutely love the secret history living in your aquarium!!! Thank you bro🙏🏼
Thank you kindly, my friend! And thanks for being a loyal viewer! I have 500+ older videos that seem to get sent to the back corner of youtube, but there's probably some more usefull stuff if you poke around my RUclips archive. Thanks again for watching!
-cheers, Alex.
What up I want to thank you for this video , by point out each types of alge . Every other RUclips talks about it but don't point to it
Thank you!! This has been so helpful! I'll definitely be watching this through a few times, and taking notes!
Awesome. Best of luck to you, and dont hesitste to ask questions if nerf be!
This is great! Not chicken scratch writing at all. thank you for the fantastic info. I'm saving this video. Absolutely helpful! Best wishes.
Thank you kindly!
Wow good video on ALGAE!!! Well explained mate!
Great video 👍. To battle algae in a new tank I also pack in as many plants as I can and I always get floating plants to balance the water. Some tanks I have started with floating plants never get algae....unless theres serious neglect.
Totally. If i didnt have such intense light, co2 and wasn't attempting carpeting.... id be doing that very same thing!
This is so informative! Great job, fantastic reporting!🌻🌼🐝 Keep it up 🙌
Great little video. Thank you for sharing! - Little Bobby
Thank you kindl little Bobby!
PS i checked out your music on Spotify, i listened to your 1997 album all the way through and i really dig your sound buddy!
My wife was trying to guess who it was (thinking it was a demo or some live set from another band we like)... so her guesses...
Flaming lips, dinosaur jr. R.E.M , incubus & space, haha... i definitely hear a lot of sound that sparked the band Incubus in my mind . (Clearly, you were first)
Good stuff though. Thanks
Love your new ADA tank. Too spendy for me, but I will live vicariously through yours.
Algae is not a bad thing, we just don't like the way it looks and how it can take over a tank, but fry and shrimp love it and thrive on it. It's an important part of some fish diets.
But if you want a planted tank, algae free this is a great video on understanding how it works and the algae cycle in a new tank.
👍💕👍
Yes i totally agree...my tanks downstairs...on the breeding racks...all have tons of algae, and i get far more fry and shrimplettes surviving with the algae and biofilms....and even the newer technique im trying out- of not removing any shrimp or nano fish mulm....they seem to love it
Like being back in science class, enjoyable and informative.
That's awesome to hear! Not all my videos are this ....dry? Or info-packed... but they would be, if i just made videos i like watching haha.... i try to inject a little personality or fun into it still...i hope that comes out. Thank you for watching. Cheers
@@Fishtory You explained plant growth very well, but missed the topic you aimed for according to the title. Most algae are tougher than plants and have adapted to various deficiencies. They have been the first to do photosynthesis on earth and they are very good at it. The higher the plants, the higher the requirements for it to grow. Moss is next in line of evolution and tougher than ferns, ferns are tougher than flowering plants. Higher plants need all nutrients in the right ratio and then they will easily outgrow algae (except blue, because these are microbiology, not algae).
@@alis49281 i discussed this near the end when i talk about out competing by building complex sky scrapers (plants) with carbon and short hours of high light, then not letting ambient light sneak in all day since algae is like a "hut" and is quick to build with phosphates and nitrogen but will fall down in a storm or if you limit building materials because the "sky scrapers are using them all up"
But i should have explicitly said what you just said...however it's a long video already, so i went over it at the end and explained remedies by the middle
@@Fishtory This applies to some algae, but not all. It might be more effective to discuss each type of algae in their own video.
Even green algae have a big variety and not all will care about light limitation. Especially the long hair types that occur in nitrogen deficient tanks (often grow in low light) will not be reduced.
Fast growing green algae such as short filamantous algae and dust algae will not react well to light limitation.
Slow growing green algae are a sign of deficient makro nutrients, commonly phosphate, nitrate or potassium. The plants will show deficiencies according to the missing nutrient. The problem is how they are easily mistaken with some red algea who like to absorb excess Nitrate, the opposite of the green algae.
The starting period of an aquarium is so sensitive because the plants aren't growing yet, but a lot of things are already present in excess, often light and some people even fertilize.
Thanks for this information. I am dealing with a bad case of green algae in one of my tanks. One year in the hobby, and I have dealt with many issues, this is just one more. Someone advised me that perhaps there is too much phosphates in that tank. He suggested root tabs, but when I compare the Easy Green liquid, the phosphate amount is higher than the other two I have, which is API Root Tabs, and Seachem Flourish root tabs which has the lowest measure of phosphates compared to the other two. My 30 gal tank needs more plants, but the 10 gal I referred to earlier is my main concern at the moment.
finally a good video on this
Thank you for the explanation.
Thank you for searching out answers to such a prolific trouble us hobbyists have . Hopefully it can save folks some time, money and frustration
You have the best videos.
Thank you kindly
Excellent, thanks!
Sure thing
Good lesson. Okay I'll finally subscribe.
Hah thank you kindly!
Excellent! The drawing is great and helpful too. It's a challenge when first starting an aquarium. My biggest challenge right now are diatoms. This is my first time using sand in a tank for goldfish. It's silica sand, so.... we all know we're going to get diatoms. But sheesh, I really hope it settles down. It's been 5 months now. I use Seachem Flourish and Seachem Root Tabs. I've added a bunch of Olive, Tiger and Red Racer Nerite Snails, which are helping. No co2 in the goldfish tank. Thank you for such an excellent video.
You're very welcome, thank you for watching the channel. Also, i know goldfish eat most plants, but have you tried a layer of duckweed or water lettuce? It cuts down some of the light that gets through and it grows fast enough to be food and decorations annnnd to remove nitrogen compounds. Also carbon in the filter is usually a good idea with goldfish....theyre one of the dirties fish pound for pound hehe. Oh and the cartridges they sell at petco etc....usually that activated carbon is all used up within 4 to 7 days! So getting a larger bulk charcoal source and refilling a filter media mesh bag, may serve you better?
Good luck!
@@Fishtory than you for replying. I am growing plants in my goldfish tank. So far so good! They rarely nibble new growth. The plants I'm growing are goldfish friendly plants: Cryptocoryne wendtii bronze, Anubias barteri, Bolbitis heudelotii, Java Fern. Every goldfish is different. Maybe I'm just luck, plus I feed them lots of veggies and duckweed. I don't grow duckweed in the tank anymore because they eat it up too fast. I grow it for them in a little 10 gallon and give them a good pinch of it daily. I don't use those cartridges either, rather I pimp my filters and love on the media so to give it a healthy longevity. Thank you so much for taking time from your life to give me suggestions! You rock!
I want to add a conflicting opinion: Plants preferentially use Ammonium over Nitrates, because it takes more energy for the plants to use the nitrogen split from the Nitrates compared to Ammonium ( Ammonium is in a reduced { it occurs when in solution, say in slightly acidic water like CO2 infused into H2O, is a good example.} this form of Ammonia. It is in a much larger ratio to the non reduced Ammonia ionic state.) This is why you should always start to cycle your plant tanks with a lot of fast growing plants in a slightly acidic (reducing..) 6.5 ~ 6.9 pH water as it will make whatever Ammonia present largely Ammonium.
George and Karla Booth talked about this extensively in their optimum planted aquaria articles/series in Aquarium Fish Keeper magazine back in 1993~96. Unfortunately they also didn't discuss at length, (because it would be discovered years later..) that you can also macro fertilize for Magnesium and Calcium with Sulfate compounds instead of Carbonates. This is the purpose of Seachems Equilibrium. This is not to say there isn't a need for calcium and magnesium carbonate buffering. If you are injecting C02 you need some KH. But too much can mean that if you suffer a CO2 sytem malfunction, the pH rises and the Ammonia /Ammonium ions ratios tend largely toward the basic side of the ratio and you end up with a lot of more toxic Ammonia, and Ammonia in large enough quantities can be bad for plants.
I hope this wasn't to confusing. It's complex, but it's also basic science and supported by studies on plants and how they grow, especially aquatic plants. If you want to dive more deeply into this. Go to The Krib www.thekrib.com/ and read the Booth's articles from their USENET archives, it's from the early era of planted tanks and it's covers a lot of the basics that this part of the hobby has built on.
I'm right there with you, agreeing that plants like ammonia much more (well in moderation)...but for delicate nano fish, you need that very profound substrate cap, or to work with nitrates... I have some other videos on how you should use plants for the first few weeks of cycling high ammonia substrates...and co2 for the biggest bang for your buck
Sorry if I misspoke or made that fact confusing somewhere
Ammonia has to break down into nitrates , then into nitrites for the plants to use it. Some plants do develop a tolerance to using ammonia directly. But it tends to burn just like with land plants.
@@66bigbudsSo no, actually if the water's pH is kept on the slightly acid side what little ammonia, (Not ammonium..)is basically harmless, Ammonium will not harm plants or fish as long as it's presence is limited the conversion to Nitrite and Nitrate involves oxidation in the process and cannot just change into N++ at the hair roots where the ion exchanges are helped by the catalyst of microscopic ion exchange. Plants have to convert Nitrate to a reduced state to use. which burns energy.
Wow this is super helpful. Especially for a beginner like me 😬👍🏼
pro tip: watch movies on flixzone. Been using it for watching lots of of movies lately.
@Ralph Robert definitely, have been using flixzone} for since december myself :)
@Ralph Robert yea, been using flixzone} for since december myself :)
Awesome video! I bought a t-shirt but you really need to sell towels too. All fish people need towels, hoopy froods.
I had some towels on there...I think they got discontinued...I'll have to fix that! Thanks buddy
i put in kno3 amd rust for my aquascape
You need to move your Co2 diffuser as close to the bottom of the tank as possible 👍🏻 🇦🇺
Yeah it's usually down low, or under floating plants, I don't really know why it's high in this one, actually haha. But thanks for the tip, regardless
@@Fishtory kool Bro it was a just in case you didn't know comment, wasn't sure if you knew or not
You’re the bomb. Ty
Thank YOU for the support
Just a head's up, which I'm sure is an oversight because the person who wrote the text for your Teespring march site is very busy, that's not a ranch on the goldfish shirt. It's an Oranda. Hope I'm not making you feel bad. I'm sure it was a simple oversight in the midst of a very busy life. Luvs to you, your wife, and your critters.
No, thank you...i did know about the mistake and now i know that ill have to change literally every stupid itemized version haha. I appreciate your keen eye and letting me know though!
Diatoms (if they aren't mistaken for a biofilm - true diatoms grow slow) like a lot of light, lack of CO2 and do well in very clean water. They typical habitat are shallow rivers and streams, highly oxygenated and with very low CO2 levels.
Green algae are common in similar habitats, but can only grow when CO2 is present. They typically appear in clean waters with a lot of light and lack in Makro nutrients such as Nitrogen, Phophate or Potassium. Depending on the type of deficiency different green algae appear. A low amount of these is healthy for the aquarium! Algaescapes with green algae can be done too. Their natural habitat are slower flowing rivers and lakes.
Red algae love iron fertilization with lack of CO2. Hard waters will boost them. They also will benefit from overfiltration, where the plant nutrients are absorbed so that only the red algae are able to use them. Their habitat are iron rich streams and rivers.
Blue green algae appear in various occasions and grow very fast since they are bacteria and not algae. The only effective way to fight them is with other bacteria. Some species of blue green algae are sensitive to nitrates - they will just die when NO3 is fertilized. A removal of blue green algae, together with proper filtration to establish a functional mikrobiology can fix the cause of their growth.
For effective plant growth Mg:Ca ration should be 2:1 (soft water) to 4:1 (hard water). Magnesiumsulfate can be used to provide this. This will give the plants the Mg they need and inhibit green algae growth. CO2, Nitrate and Potassium (K) should be present at all times or plants will be starving fast. Phosphate can be fertilized once per week and never together with iron. Phopshate shouldn't be above 5 mg/L because it can harm the fish above that, but it can be fertilized once per week up to 3 mg/L. CO2 should be at 30 mg/L in high light tanks. Fertilize iron as little as possible - deficiencies are easy to spot. Each change will take between one and four weeks to take effect.
High amounts of potassium (>15 mg/L K) will block absorption of other minerals and should be avoided as a permanent level.
So... it is easy! Maintain these values:
CO2: 25-30 mg/L (obligatory for high light tanks)
NO3: 10-30 mg/L
K: 5-10 mg/L
Mg: >10 mg/L
Ca: >5 mg/L ratio of Ca:Mg is 2:1 to 4:1
Fe: fertilize as needed
PO4: add once per week 5.0-6.0 mg/l - never together with iron!
A well running tank can absorb more than 4 mg NO3 and 0.5 mg phosphate per day per litre! That is why green filamentous algae appear in many tanks that are not provided all the makro nutrients (Nitrate and Phosphate) they need - the fish often don't make that much waste. The Phosphate doesn't cause algae - as explained above, it can't do that.
Thank you for this information. I should break down each type of algae and why it grows. Diatom algae starts as a fine powder though, if you catch it within a few weeks it can prevent it's colonization, from what ive noticed.
Also, phosphates definitely cause algae in local streams here in WA and they've been removing it from products for quite some time now, to halt exposure in streams.
Also my fish loads usually keep my nitrates at 30 to 40 in most my tanks, so i elect to keep my fertz nitrate free usually. Almost all the "all in one: fertz i try, cause a big algae blooms....any advice?
The Secret History Living in Your Aquarium on nature unnatural phosphate levels are harmful. In the aquarium environment with plenty CO2 up to 3 mg/L can work well.
About fertilizer and algae bloom: which algae do you mean?
I use Aqua Rebell Micro Basic supplemented with salts such as Potassium Sulfate and Magnesiumsulfate. N and K I only add to tanks that show deficiencies in the form of urea and potassium phosphate.
I rarely measure the Fe, Mg and K of my aquariums because I use Pogostemon and Hygrophila as indicators for lack of these.
Nitrates can be removed with an canister filter with an oversized filter box filled with a lot of biological media. The second half of the filter will then convert NO3 to N2. The other way are fast growing plants - for open aquariums Epipremum aureum. Plant absorption only works with complete complementation.
I dose K and Mg with estimative Index and it works well as long as I keep up with the water exchanges.
@@alis49281 water changes are key when dosing to the limit :) i mostly mean green slime/filamentous algae (not the green hair or some auwfuchs...although my tanks almost all have freshwater sponges in them also
@@alis49281 oh and i have 2 tanks where green hair algae is the main feature just like a carpet...and it's super clean water
@@Fishtory Dose Iron fertilizers carefully and ideally only when the plants show that they need it. Make sure CO2 is dosed according to the light input and consider getting Potassiumsulfate instead of a full fertilizer.
Many plants will thrive when Magnesium is provided plenty. On soft water Ca should be at least 20 mg/l and Mg 10 mg/L - the result is a Kh about 3-4°. On hard water a lot of Mg is needed to get at least 4:1 ratio.
With this my only problem is finding out how many grams of the salts I need per week. I have spot algae and dust algae due to lack of K with high N and P.
I think you should have pointed out wich messure could have helpt to prevent algea to occur such as floating plant.as for your carpeting plants ,put those in when the tank is stable enough to take the floating plants out.that would be the point when all the other plant are fully grown .but do not take it out al at once .do it step by step over a longer period and dont trim all the plants at the same time .do one plant a day.everythink to keep it stable.
Good points
So when is your next live stream ok thanks
Probably tonight or tomorrow around 5 pm western pacific time :) I'll post a heads up
Got a horrendous case of black beard! Thought about breaking the whole tank down. Haven’t quite decided.
Try draining it 90% and using a spray bottle filled with 3%+ hydrogen peroxide on any hardscape or plants with it ... wait 5 or 10 minutes as it snap crackles and pops/foams, and then refill the tank again. (Any left over hydrogen peroxide turns to water and hydrogen /oxygen off gassing chemically, after a few moments it should start to die.
Youll know if it worked, if the BBA turns orange and blomde colored....and then most fish will munch on it- dead.
@@Fishtory thanks, I’ll try that!
Strong light, but no CO2. Still hoping my plants can out compete. Going with no ferts, and reduce light time, scraping and manual labor, and adding some oto's to the cleanup crew (in addition to Neos and trapdoor snails).
Question about Oto's: my daughter's tank has run out of algae, and the guy that sold her the Oto said it'll just scavenge fine off the bottom but I've never seen it eating from the bottom of the tank. Do I need to get supplemental food for it or is he in fact, just fine?
Otos need algae actually... its part of their blood sugar regulation according to some papers i saw recently... theyre used to feeding all day ... so feeding once a day is hard on them even...but they usually survive until more algae forms... and just because you dont see it... feel it with your finger, if the glass feels slick or slimy...its enough for them to survive a while on. Failing that... get some spirulina algae waffers and break em in half or quarters and feed em every 12 hours ideally...just a little piece...if they dont eat it, theyre fine with whats in the tank...theyll come smell it and it if they are in dire need. Cheers
@Fishtory thank you! Want to keep that Oto happy. He did a great job and deserves a reward. I did try lettuce and zucchini but no interest. I'll get some hikari wafers or something. My daughter's tank is a lot smaller and less natural than mine so I'll see if I can get her to add some more plants, too.
Much appreciated!
I never had any algae accept green spot algae in my new 130 L tank its soo hard to get off stuff
That can be caused by too much light. They grow slower than plants and shouldn't be able to compete with them if the plants have all they need - that includes nitrate and phosphate. Lower your iron fertilization until your plants signal they need it.
nice demo bro!!! and I love that twinstar. is that on a 40 breeder?? if so I'm selling my two finnex 24/7 and buying 1.
Yeah almost the same dimensions as a 40 breeder... just 2 inches taller rimless UNS 90p 46.5 gallon
@@Fishtory damn!!! that fixture is sweet!
What is your nitrate and phosphate lvl jw?
Nitrate - 10 /phosphate the first hint of showing up at all.... ammonia 0,
Excess nutrients in the water column + light = algae
What if you don’t have active substrate and CO2?
Chicken scratching my butt. Your an artist compared to me.
Lol thats a new.one to me
I only ever got diatom algae when I used sand because it has so much silicates
That's an interesting point! I have had it in a lot of tanks but i use jadite and jade stone a lot...or quartz... so i wonder if that has played a role. However, I've also had it in every tank with enriched aquasoils
@@Fishtory i havent had any diatom algae in aquasoil tanks. Only sand tanks. Maybe your aquasoils have silicates?
I have high silikates and no problem with diatom anymore. They like water deficient in CO2 and tanks with bright light. Without CO2 fertilization with a permanent test, the only good way to control them is to reduce the light.
Silikates are a myth that only helps the companies that sell silikate tests and removers. They are very common on earth and usually present in ALL water. The silikates aren't the problem and certainly not the cause.
when I change my water it seems like it gets worse 😣 do you think my well water has lots of nutrients 🤔
It definitely could...or you could be kicking up biological refuse in the process of dumping water back in....ive had that spike my ammonia or nitrates in the past... using a bowl or something to diffuse the splash is helpful...and also id test your well water or ask your local utilities/ city water folks if they'll test your well...usually its 20 - 50 bucks depending on location and amount of testing
@@Fishtory it's in my 72 gallon I use one of those python things I only do about 15% every couple weeks cuz I got soil under sand it's pretty deep and a bunch of plants I try to aim it at the little rock pile when I'm filling it I don't gravel vac or sandvac that's a great idea to take my water to have it tested thank you kind sir 😊
long hair algea is the bain of my existance!!!!
Me too..... me too.... but thanks for watching!
If they are like cotton and don't turn red when cooked/boiled or in alcohol, they are green algae and show a lack of phosphates and/or nitrates. If that is the case, get an NPK fertilizer.
Gotta cut back on the Brawndo! I know it's what plants crave, but still.
Hahaha i wanted to drop that in this video soooo badly. Im glad you feel it.
It had to be said. 😉
I understand the appeal of high tech tanks but it requires too much effort and dollars I dont wanna spend. I like the laid back aspect of natural tanks more. I havent Got to the point of no water changes yet but I hope still ıt will happen
Also what do you suggest for getting rid of BB algea? Half a year ago I changed lights and added root tabs and BB appeard. I have Siamese algea eaters and lots of plants but it didnt disappear yet.
👍
i start to have algae in a cycling tank. you said change water. other say leave cycling tank alone. wait 3 weeks before water change. iso changing water is not an option. you want to give bacteria time. i have ad fertilizer day one and now getting i think algae on glass. light is on 6 hours. Im going to add some little algumin. See what happens. Cant change water so..
You can definitely change water... you just don't want to change a ton of it. The bacterial load lives primarily (95% or more) on surface area in your tank, substrate and filter media....you'll only be tossing a small fraction of the bacteria out, if you do water changes.
What's more important, is that there is ammonia to fuel the nitrogen cycle and maintain a sizable bacterial colony...but if you have algae, your tank is very close to- If not, already, cycled. The algae is using ammonia and nitrates, nitrites...and is a normal response to a tank swinging between equilibrium.
@@Fishtory I throw a raw shrimp in the tank yesterday to feed the bacteria. I forget to say I transferred my plant with some algae on it from the old tank. It been a week now. I'll do a 40% water change then tommorow. Also added some small amount of tetra algumin.
Isn't the tank too sparsely planted??
Yes...its growing in now...and since then i have added almost triple what was in the tank filmed for this video
Dude dont knock yourself your very clever
Lol okay